- Thread starter
- #121
They are about an inch thick. Can measure exact tomorrow. These are 4crawler rubber, not OEM.
Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ceylonfj40nut
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- 2h a440 diesel fj60 old man emu
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- Thread starter
- #122
The 4crawler kit has three sizes of body mounts. Smallest is for the core support. The largest ones go on the body where (highlighted in yellow) indicated on the 60 chassis. The largest size rubber mount has a total count of 4, two per side on the 3rd and 5th mount from front. Medium size mounts total six, and fit in the remaining spots
- Thread starter
- #123
Got the cups welded on. Toothpick gapped and welded. Bottoms have slight gap for drainage and drying out to avoid rust
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- #124
The mounts have been a task. Lots of grind and checking. Walked away from it a day and came back to finesse them in. The 5th mount at the rear took a while. Bolted the square portion to the body first then ground the horizontal piece to fit. Its dialed in for tack welding tomorrow.
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It’s going to be worth all the work CD !!
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Looking great CD! Need to come up and visit!
- Thread starter
- #128
A pillar. Post #101 shows how it was cut before finnishing
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Curious about your body placement and wonder if you would entertaina question or two. You mentioned earlier that you weren't modifying the rear pinch weld, which results in your body setting a little but higher than it would if the pinch welds didn't interfere.
And with the 6" tube, it looks like that notch is pretty close to the middle. So 3" above the frame rail to the bottom of the mount. And with about an inch for the mount, that's 4" above the frame to the actual body.
I have my body situated on the frame and have mocked up a "front" mount, but my body looks to be about where yours is.
What concerns me, is that I have lowered my rear at the pinch weld area by over an inch. With a level body, that should put a difference at the front. My front mount should be at least an inch lower than yours, but its not.
My donor body was less than ideal, but I think I have it straight. Maybe its too much for me to ask, but do you have vertical measurements of the mounts in relation to each other with everything level? I took some field measurements when I picked up my body, but I could have made a mistake.
Fyi, I haven't shortened my frame yet, just working on the front section mounts for now.
Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #131
No major updates. Took a few days off to take an annual trip to Ouray with my boys for SAS7. Getting back to it. During my time off i got to thinking about the rear bumper situation. I opted for the 4x4 labs because it fits perfectly on the 80 chassis, has great quarter panel protection, and the cross member does not reach as far in and take away room for my fuel tank. I sold my rear 4plus bumper for the same price as the DIY kit from 4x4 labs. So thats cool! Ordered dual swing outs. One for tire carrier/high lift mount and the other for three jerry can holder.
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- #132
Sent you a PM.
- Thread starter
- #134
Held off on the rear most mounts until i get the DIY 4x4 labs kit. Instructions say to cut about 4” of the straight frame on the 80 where rear it sticks out passed the body. With my shortened frame, it does not stick out. Positioning of the rear mount is dependent on where the cut is made. May have to drill new holes on the DIY kit attachment brackets to use a different set of holes on the underside of the 80 series chassis. Doable!
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- Thread starter
- #135
Heard some good things about this brakeline. Poly armor steel. Bends without kinking. Also PVC coating baked on for rust protection. If it works well forming and flaring, I will get larger dia for fuel lines. Not a fan of NiCop! Too fragile, especially on axles and any where brush could snag.
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
^^^
Looks promising CD. Let us know please.
Looks promising CD. Let us know please.
- Thread starter
- #137
Finally got my 4X4 labs DIY kit in. Will test fit quarter panel wings and rear gap. Then burn in all the body mounts to the frame. Adjust prior if necessary.
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- #138
Fit is good on the quarters. Did not cut the parallel frame members as you do on the 80. Want to see how the cross member interfaces with rear and decide what if i have to cut. Cutting and flipping the rear member pieces would not have worked with Labs setup. The gap between quarter pinchweld and labs quarter panel is about an inch.
I will need to move the wings back because the spindles are under the tailgate. May have to build a custom bracket to use factory holes on the frame. I will see if i can drill new holes on the wings if there is enough metal to catch thr factory captive nuts.
I will need to move the wings back because the spindles are under the tailgate. May have to build a custom bracket to use factory holes on the frame. I will see if i can drill new holes on the wings if there is enough metal to catch thr factory captive nuts.
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- Thread starter
- #139
Got the rear bumper dialed in so spindles clear. Will drill new holes to line up with the larger factory captive nuts at bottom of frame. I will be drilling new holes through the frame, sleeving it to get stronger anchor points than what 4x4 labs uses with the tire carrier bolt holes. Ordered a mag drill.
