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Etymologi

Bergets form har liknats vid ett ste (städ) som tillsammans med tind (spetsig fjälltopp) bildar bergets namn.

Historia

Flera försök gjordes att bestiga Stetind. Bland kända försök kan nämnas tysken Paul Güssfeldt och norrmannen Martin Ekrolls försök under sommaren 1888 samt dansken Carl Hall och den norska fjällguiden Mathias Soggemoens försök i 1889. Ingendera lyckades dock nå toppen, men Hall lyckades bygga ett stenröse på förtoppen ungefär 500 m sydöst om huvudtoppen som därmed fick namnet Halls förtopp. Engelsmannen William Slingsby misslyckades också med ett försök i 1904^[1] och beskrev Stetind som det fulaste berg han någonsin såg.^[2]

Förstebestigningen gjordes 30 juli 1910 av de norska bergsbestigarna Ferdinand Schjelderup, Carl Wilhelm Rubenson och Alf Bonnevie Bryn som tog sig vidare från Halls förtopp hela vägen upp till toppen.

Referenser

^ ”A few notes about Zapffe”. http://www.visitstetind.com/en/historie/30-peter_w_zapffe-1.html. Läst 14 juni 2015.
^ Frode Jenssen (2015). ”Stetind - Norges Nasjonalfjell” (på norsk bokmål). http://www.stetind.nu. Läst 14 juni 2015.

Climbing

The mountain had several attempts at first ascents. First was the German Paul Güssfeldt and the Norwegian Martin Ekroll in the summer of 1888. The Dane Carl Hall and the Norwegian mountain guide Mathias Soggemoen attempted in 1889.

Neither group succeeded, but Carl Hall built a cairn on the lower summit about 500 meter (1 600 ft) southeast of the main summit. That cairn is now called Halls fortopp (elevation Mall:Convert/LoffAoffDorSoff). Around 1900, William Cecil Slingsby also failed to reach the summit.

It was not until 30 July 1910 that Ferdinand Schjelderup, Carl Wilhelm Rubenson, and Alf Bonnevie Bryn finally reached the summit of Stetind.^[1] The weather conditions were good. It was Rubenson's 25th birthday, and he was given the honor of being first in the rope. The hardest part was to pass the smooth crag "Mysosten", which Rubenson finger traversed along a tiny crack. After this passage there was an easy climb to the summit.^[2] The same three climbers continued their 1910 tour by making first ascents of the Lofoten summits Svolværgeita and Trakta.^[2] Arne Næss, Ralph Høibakk, and K. Friis Baasted did the first winter climb of Stetind in 1963 on the eastern wall. In 1966, Arne Næss and four others were the first ones to summit via the west wall.^[3]

Name

The shape of the mountain has been compared with a ste which means "anvil" and the last element is the finite form of tind which means "mountain peak". Slingsby characterized Stetind as the ugliest mountain he ever saw.^[2]

References

^ Lauritzen, Per Roger, red (2009). ”Stetind” (på norwegian). Norsk Fjelleksikon. Friluftsforlaget. ISBN 978-82-91-49547-7.
^ [a b c] Per, Hohle (1968). ”Norsk tindesport gjennom hundre år” (på norwegian). Hundre år i fjellet. Den Norske Turistforening 1868–1968. Den Norske Turistforening. Sid. 86–99.
^ Dyer, Anthony; Baddeley, John; Robertson, Ian H. (2006). Walks and Scrambles in Norway. Rockbuy Limited. ISBN 978-1-904466-25-3.

[visitstetind-1] ”A few notes about Zapffe”. http://www.visitstetind.com/en/historie/30-peter_w_zapffe-1.html. Läst 14 juni 2015.

[stetind.nu-2] Frode Jenssen (2015). ”Stetind - Norges Nasjonalfjell” (på norsk bokmål). http://www.stetind.nu. Läst 14 juni 2015.

[nfjl-Stetind-3] Lauritzen, Per Roger, red (2009). ”Stetind” (på norwegian). Norsk Fjelleksikon. Friluftsforlaget. ISBN 978-82-91-49547-7.

[dnt1968-4] [a b c] Per, Hohle (1968). ”Norsk tindesport gjennom hundre år” (på norwegian). Hundre år i fjellet. Den Norske Turistforening 1868–1968. Den Norske Turistforening. Sid. 86–99.

[5] Dyer, Anthony; Baddeley, John; Robertson, Ian H. (2006). Walks and Scrambles in Norway. Rockbuy Limited. ISBN 978-1-904466-25-3.

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