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Jessica Pilz

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Jessica Pilz
Pilz competing in 2017
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1996-11-22) 22 November 1996 (age 28)
Haag, Austria
Height165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight52 kg (115 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Austria
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
Olympic Games 0 0 1
World Championships 2 1 1
World Cup 3 8 6
Olympic Games
Bronze medal – third place 2024 Paris Combined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Gold medal – first place 2021 Moscow Combined
Silver medal – second place 2023 Bern Combined
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Innsbruck Combined
World Cup (Overall)
Winner 2023 Lead
Winner 2024 Lead
Second place 2018 Lead
Third place 2015 Lead
Third place 2016 Combined
Third place 2019 Combined
European Championships
Silver medal – second place 2022 Munich Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2015 Chamonix Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2017 Campitello di Fassa Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2022 Munich Combined
Winter Military World Games
Gold medal – first place 2017 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2017 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2017 Speed
Updated on 28 April 2019

Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Pilz started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.

In 2017, Pilz won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering.

In 2018, Pilz won the lead climbing event at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She won the bronze medal in the combined event at the same World Championships.

In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics,[1] where she finished 7th.[2]

In 2021, Pilz won the combined event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships.

In 2023, Pilz qualified to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing second in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[3] Pilz won the overall title in lead climbing in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup series.

In 2024, Pilz won the bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[4]

Rock climbing

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She rarely climbs outdoors, but in January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes.[5]

Rankings

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IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Discipline[6] 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024
Lead 33 19 13 3 9 4 2 10 - 10 1 1
Bouldering 25 58 11 5 12 7 17 11
Speed 57 63 - - - - -
Combined 3 10 4 3 - - 4

IFSC Climbing World Championships

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Youth[7]

Discipline 2010
Youth B
2011
Youth B
2012
Youth A
2013
Youth A
2014
Junior
2015
Junior
Lead 16 1 1 1 2 2
Bouldering 3
Speed 21

Adult[7]

Discipline 2016 2018 2019 2023
Lead 5 1 6 6
Bouldering - 4 33 8
Speed - 59 43 -
Combined - 3 10 2

Climbing European Championships

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Youth[7]

Discipline 2012
Youth A
2013
Youth A
2014
Junior
2015
Junior
Lead 1 1 2 1
Bouldering 2 1 2

Adult[7]

Discipline 2013 2015 2017
Lead 11 3 3
Bouldering 5 12
Speed 31 41

Sport climbing at the Winter Military World Games

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Discipline 2017
Lead 1
Bouldering 1
Speed 2

European Youth Cup

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Discipline 2010
Youth B
2011
Youth B
2012
Youth A
2013
Youth A
2014
Junior
2015
Junior
Lead 5 2 2 6 2
Bouldering 3 5 12 1 2

Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Lead

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Season[7] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2014 1 1
2015 3 3 6
2016 1 1
2017 1 1
2018 2 3 1 6
2019 1 1 2
2020 0
2021 0
2022 0
2023 2 1 3
2024 1 1 1
Total 3 12 7 22

Bouldering

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Season[7] Gold Silver Bronze Total
2019 1 1
Total 0 0 1 1
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References

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  1. ^ "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?".
  2. ^ "Jessica PILZ Biography, Olympic Medals, Records and Age". International Olympic Committee. Archived from the original on 2022-11-10.
  3. ^ "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.
  4. ^ Aspland, Richard (2024-08-10). "World Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-08-10.
  5. ^ UK-Climbing, ed. (6 January 2016). "Two ~8c+'s by Jessy Pilz". Retrieved October 22, 2017.
  6. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  7. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Pilz's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
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