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Spring Twists Are a Lightweight, Protective Style to Try

Everything you need to know about installation and maintenance.

woman with spring twist short hair

@naturalhairloving

Is there anything better than trying out a new protective style? You don't have to do your hair in the morning, so you get some extra sleep. You are helping your hair grow by keeping heat and manipulation to a minimum, and the best part? They are cute!

The protective style we're focusing on today? Spring twists.

The hair is so light that once your style is complete, it will literally spring up when you give it a gentle tug (which is where this style gets its name). Like most protective styles, you'll spend up to eight hours installing the twists, but the reward of a new low-maintenance look is always worth it. 

Ahead, everything you need to know If you're curious about trying spring twists for the first time—from the basics of where to find the hair, what the installation process is like, and how to care for and style your spring twists.

Meet the Experts

Takisha Sturdivant-Drew is a celebrity hairstylist. Her clients include Kerry Washington, Gabrielle Union, Ashley Graham, Yvonne Orji, Tessa Thompson, and more.


What are Spring Twists?

"Spring twists are a lightweight protective hairstyle that are a bit tighter than other styles that’s made with coily hair extensions to give a springy look and feel," Sturdivant-Drew tells us.

And the best thing about them? Sturdivant-Drew says that some of the benefits are that they are simple to install at home and they're super lightweight, so you won't have to deal with the headaches that heavy braids or tight wigs can give you.

What Kind of Hair to Use for Spring Twists

Spring twists can be whatever length you prefer. Since they're so light, you can wear a longer style without fear of it weighing you down. Spring hair typically comes in a pack with three bundles of hair, but most people only need one and a half bundles to complete their entire head. To achieve medium-sized twists, split each coil in the pack into two, or into three, or four if you want smaller twist.

Sturdivant-Drew recommends coily hair extensions and using the Jamaican Mango & Lime’s Loc Down for a firm hold and a soft finish without flaking. "Another gel I recommend is their Cool Scalp Braid, Loc, and Twist Gel. It helps to prevent a dry, itchy scalp with its cooling technology. It's a great choice for moisturizing," she adds.

How Are Spring Twists Installed?

There are similarities between installing spring twists and other protective styles. You'll need patience (whether you enlist the help of a stylist or take on the challenge yourself), a leave-in conditioner, pomade, and of course, tools (combs, clips, and a crochet needle depending on how you plan to install the hair).

Essentially, Sturdivant-Drew says that you (or the stylist) separates the hair and then does two strand twists into your own hair, starting with a braid to securely attach it to your roots while using coily extension hair.

Step One: Prep and Section

You'll always want to start the styling process with freshly washed, deep conditioned, blown-out hair. I would even recommend a pre-protective style trim as well to make sure your hair is in tip-top shape. Once your hair is prepped and moisturized, you'll part the hair into four-to-six sections (depending on your hair's thickness). Then it's time for the installation.

Once the hair is sectioned, you'll make each of your twist parts as big as you'd like, and add a hydrating product like Eden BodyWorks Papaya Castor Conditioning Hairdress. Then follow-up with a pomade to ensure your hair is smooth to prevent any of your hair from peeking out. Now you're ready to infuse the extensions with your hair.

Step Two: Braid at The Root

This step can be done a few different ways, based on your personal preference. Some braiders create a small braid at the root of the hair and braid down about an inch, then take a crochet hook to loop the hair before starting to complete a finished twist. Other braiders prefer to braid the spring hair in at the root down about an inch, and then twist the extension into the clients (or their own) hair. You can do what works for your hair type and your skill level.

Step Three: Twist and Detangle

Now that you've decided how you're going to install the hair at the root, you'll start to twist the hair—no twirling. Just twist to ensure the hair stays springy like a two-strand twist. As you're twisting, you may encounter snags. The hair could start to tangle, and you could find yourself with a little more hair on one side of the twist than the other. Like you would with your own hair, detangle the extensions as you go, and if you end with an uneven twist, split the hair as you did when you started at the root and twist all the way to the end. Cut any frizzy ends and give them a gentle rub between your finger to seal. No hot water needed.

Maintenance

The great thing about this style is that while installation doesn't save you any time compared to other protective styles, maintenance is relatively easy. Having a product to keep a gentle cleanser to keep build-up at bay, an oil to moisturize the scalp, and a silk bonnet to help maintain the style (and your hair's health) is all you need. Braiders agree that this protective style should only be left in between four and six weeks. 

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