Journeys of a Lifetime: 500 of the World's Greatest Trips

Cambodia.

GO, EXPLORE, AND SEE THE WORLD

America is a nation of list keepers and, as I’ve made my way through 65 countries and counting, I’ve inevitably assembled my share of list-worthy travel experiences. Steaming down the St. Lawrence Seaway, past carpets of evergreen, dolphins off the prow as we forge deep into the North American continent. Clattering by train over moors, through glens, skirting the heather-clad mountains of the Scottish Highlands. Gaping from the railing of the Star Ferry at the urban dazzle of Hong Kong harbor. Drifting down Kerala’s azure backwaters as sari-draped women work rice paddies in southern India. Cruising under an Aegean sun, blessed by a sense of ancient times, in the helter-skelter maze of the Greek islands. Rollercoastering down Highway 1 toward Big Sur in an open convertible past America’s greatest seascapes. These are some of my happiest travel memories, burnished by time and still magical decades later. And they are among the 500 journeys of a lifetime celebrated in this book. This book is about the going, not just the arriving. It showcases wonderful, indelible, life-changing journeys, with terrific stops along the way. Here are 500 places that offer an unparalleled diversity of landscape—ocean, mountain, hill and dale, hamlet and city—and a rich mix of locomotion, by rail and car, on foot and on water. I hope you use this trove of trips to strike out into the world. And as you do, seek out the true and the authentic. Be willing to get lost. Be open to surprise and serendipity. And appreciate each route’s sense of place, its uniqueness. The pages that follow illuminate some of the world’s most remarkable destinations. But as we cherish them, we must also be sensitive that some places are, in a sense, endangered species, vulnerable to the pressures of visitation. We must take care not to ruin what we love most. And there is much to love in the places in this book. So go, explore, and see the world.

Keith Bellows

Editor-in-Chief, National Geographic Traveler magazine

1

ACROSS WATER

Traditional longtail boats sit at anchor in the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea, off Thailand’s western coast. You can take a six-day junk cruise through the sea, visiting some of its 3,500 islands.

Traveling by water provides a new dimension. Rivers reach hidden places where roads can never go. The Earth’s most dramatic coastlines, seen from offshore, are revealed in ways not possible from land. The world’s most inspiring voyages are never simply journeys from one port to another. The sights and scenes encountered, the exotic or historic destinations, are only the beginning of the story. The vessels themselves, and the waters traveled, play an equal part in these adventures. A raft-trip along Madagascar’s Mangoky River brings glimpses of dancing lemurs. Canoes glide up the Orinoco into the heart of a South American jungle. Ferries in the Aegean Sea follow the trails of ancient Greece’s gods and monsters. An icebreaker ventures into the Arctic fastnesses off Lapland. Airboats churn past alligators in the Florida Everglades. No continent is left unvisited. There are comfortable cruises for those desiring to drift and daydream, as well as more challenging options for adventurers eager to clamber up a mainmast or paddle a canoe past villages unaltered for a thousand years.

Blocks of ice, calved from glaciers reaching the sea, jostle one another in an Alaskan bay.

WASHINGTON/ALASKA

SEATTLE TO ALASKA

Left: An old coastal steamer is moored at Britannia Beach, British Columbia, against a dramatic mountain backdrop. Right: A Native American wood carving from Gunakadet Park in Juneau.

Explore a world of fjords, humpback whales, and ancient glaciers on this cruise through North America’s coastal wilderness.

The ship glides past mountains rising up to 15,000 feet (4,575 meters) above sea level, their snowcapped peaks reflected in the mirror-calm waters of a fjord. Bald eagles soar overhead, and waterfalls cascade down mountainsides. The cruise starts in either Seattle or Vancouver, and heads north through the 1,000-mile (1,600 kilometer) Inside Passage—a network of sea channels between the mainland of British Columbia and the panhandle region of southeastern Alaska and their outlying islands. On deck, you’ll be absorbed in the passing drama of the coastline. Near Ketchikan, at the panhandle’s southern end, wisps of cloud cling to 3,000-foot (915 meter) cliffs, rising from the steely-dark sea in Misty Fjords. On either side of the Passage, the Tongass National Forest, a temperate rain forest of ancient conifers and broadleaf trees fed by the region’s moisture-rich climate, forms one of the world’s rarest ecosystems. Farther north, you sail into Glacier Bay, where 16 glaciers reach the sea—there is a thunderous roar as they calve, sending thousand-year-old, house-sized blocks of ice plunging into the bay. The ship also puts into small coastal towns, tucked around harbors at the feet of mountains, each revealing a diversity of influences: totem poles of the Tsimshian, Tlingit, and Haida Indians; the reds, oranges, and greens of Scandinavian-style buildings; relics of the Klondike gold rush; and the domes of a Russian Orthodox cathedral.

When to Go Ships tend to be less crowded in May and September, the beginning and end of the cruise season. The weather in early September is often pleasantly mild.

How Long Cruises last from 7 to 14 days, but choose your itinerary carefully. Longer trips may follow the Inside Passage outbound, inbound, or both. Shorter cruises sometimes bypass much of the Inside Passage to spend more time in remote northern Alaska.

Planning Book a year ahead for the best trip selection. Small cruise ships carrying 50–100 passengers provide a more intimate, nature-based experience.

Inside Information Pack for weather ranging from warm and sunny to cold and rainy. Include a warm hat and jacket, raingear, sunglasses, and good binoculars.

Websites www.Alaska.com, www.alaskatravel.com, www.smallshipcruises.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ A hike through old-growth rain forest on the Queen Charlotte Islands may give you a glimpse of a rare white Kermode (or Spirit) bear.

■ Ketchikan—meaning Thundering Wings of an Eagle in the Tlingit language—has the world’s largest collection of totem poles.

■ Watch for the great, shaggy, grizzly bears fishing in Frederick Sound. Eagles, ospreys, and hawks glide aloft; orca and humpback whales breach and dive as they feed in the nutrient-rich waters.

■ Take a helicopter ride to walk on the Mendenhall Glacier outside Juneau, Alaska’s capital.

■ Ride across Glacier Bay in an inflatable dinghy for an up-close encounter with seals, whales, and calving glaciers.

■ The Russian influence is prominent in Sitka, facing the Pacific and dominated by St. Michael the Archangel (Orthodox) Cathedral, Totem Square, the Russian Cemetery, and the Isabel Miller and Sheldon Jackson museums.

■ The Trail of ’98 Museum and Gold Rush Cemetery in Skagway take you back to the Klondike days.

CANADA

THE ST. LAWRENCE

The French influence is clear in the Hotel Château Frontenac on Quebec City’s St. Lawrence waterfront.

This captivating voyage through southeastern Canada features pristine river wilderness and historic cities.

From the time European colonists first arrived in North America, the St. Lawrence River has been one of the great routes into the heart of the continent. From Quebec City to Montreal, the forested grandeur of the scenery is the draw on this small-ship cruise along the historic waterway. You watch blue herons flap past, making for nests on the Berthier-Sorel islands, while Lake Saint-Pierre is a magnet for migrating ducks and geese. Montreal is a mesmerizing contrast—a chance to visit chic shops and nightclubs. Heading west, you enter the canals and locks of the St. Lawrence Seaway, opened in 1959, which allows ocean-going ships to sail from the Atlantic to the Great Lakes. The spectacle of the small ship negotiating the massive locks is one of the trip’s highlights. Before disembarking in Kingston on Lake Ontario, you pass through the summer playground of the Thousand Islands, where motorboats speed between islands, some home to villages, others scarcely large enough for a single house to perch on top of them.

When to Go From mid-May to mid-October. Fabulous fall colors peak in early October.

How Long Six-night, seven-day cruises ply both ways between Kingston and Quebec City.

Planning All of the onshore tours and attractions are included in the cruise price. Expect calm water, on-ship entertainment, good food, and interesting shore excursions.

Inside Information This is a relaxed and informal small-ship cruise. Bring sunhats, sunglasses, a light jacket, and comfortable walking shoes, as well as binoculars.

Website www.stlawrencecruiselines.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Vieux Québec—Old Quebec City—is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most historic and beautiful cities in North America. Give yourself a day at the start or finish of your trip to explore its cobbled streets.

■ Montreal, possibly Canada’s hippest city, is a showplace for French sophistication both in the modern downtown and on the historic waterfront, where some buildings date to the 17th century.

■ Step back in time at Upper Canada Village, Morrisburg, where one of Canada’s largest and most elaborate living history sites re-creates life in a rural riverside village of the 1860s.

■ Ornate, century-old mansions dot the wooded shores of the glacier-carved Thousand Islands—there are actually more than 1,800 of them. Particularly impressive is the fairytale, 120-room, medieval-style Boldt Castle on Heart Island.

CANADA

THE TRENT-SEVERN WATERWAY

Boats pass through one of the many lock systems on the Trent-Severn Waterway.

A favorite with boaters and nature lovers, this journey takes you into the Canadian wilderness.

From Trenton on Lake Ontario to the pristine shores of Lake Huron’s Georgian Bay, this 240-mile (386 kilometer) network of canals, lakes, and rivers forms an easily navigated path through the intimate landscapes north of Toronto. Charming villages with a European flavor, farmlands, rocky gorges, and sapphire-clear, forest-lined lakes are just a few of the constantly changing tableaus that have made this a popular water tour. The pace of the journey varies from strenuous in the easternmost section between Trenton and Frankford—six locks and a height difference of 115 feet (35 meters) to negotiate in just 6 miles (10 kilometers)—to relaxed on the maze of waterways that make up the Kawartha Lakes. These are perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and cooking lakeside meals of freshly caught fish. Keep an eye out for white-tail deer and black bears foraging for food in the surrounding forests. The canals are narrow, so there are no big cruise ships. Most people bring their own boats, or rent one. The choices range from canoes and kayaks, for those who enjoy wilderness camping, to 50-foot (15 meter) houseboats offering voyagers the luxuries of a fine hotel.

When to Go Late May through October. Late June has long, warm days. September offers warm, sunny days and cool nights. Fall colors run from late September to mid-October, which is also the best fishing season.

How Long It takes about seven days to complete the Trent-Severn under power, longer for paddlers. Most houseboaters do leisurely four- to seven-day loops between Peterborough and Lake Simcoe.

Planning Houseboats are simple to operate and come fully equipped with all the comforts of home. Boaters must pay modest fees for lock transit.

Inside Information Houseboat rental operators offer full instructions. Casual clothing is the order of the day. Bring hats, sunglasses, sunblock, and comfortable shoes for shore excursions.

Websites www.happydayshouseboats.com, www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/on/trentsevern/index_e.asp

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Listen out for the haunting cry of a loon as you watch sunlit morning mist rise from the still surface of a wilderness lake.

■ Peterborough has the world’s largest lift lock, completed in 1904. The entire waterway, with all its canals and locks, is an incredible feat of 19th-century engineering.

■ Visit towns steeped in charm, including historic Lakefield.

■ Explore the stores and restaurants of Bobcaygeon and Fenelon Falls.

■ Hook a 5-lb (2 kg) bass in the Trent-Severn’s crystal-pure waters.

TENNESSEE/KENTUCKY/OHIO

FRONTIER COUNTRY

Excited spectators cheer on horses and riders at Churchill Downs. The twin spires of the 19th-century grandstand are the course’s most famous landmark.

Savor the flavor of bygone days as you tour America’s historic heart by barge along the Cumberland and Ohio rivers.

Steeped in history—the area was once inhabited by the Cherokee, Chickasaw, and Shawnee tribes, and was later home to French fur traders and the early pioneers pushing west—and rich in marvelous views, this cruise takes you back into America’s past. Beginning in Nashville, Tennessee, America’s country music capital, you’ll travel along the Cumberland and Ohio rivers, through rich agricultural land that attracted many early settlers, to Cincinnati, Ohio, enjoying the gentle pace of life on the two rivers. While still on the Cumberland River, you’ll pass through a series of historic locks that were created by the Tennessee Valley Authority during the Great Depression, and navigate Lake Barkley in the Land Between the Lakes. Soon afterward you’ll join the Ohio River, and pass through Paducah, Kentucky, with its railroad museum, River Heritage Museum, and Museum of the American Quilters Society. For the next couple of days, you’ll glide along the Ohio River to Louisville, Kentucky, home of the Kentucky Derby. Most cruises take you by bus to tour Churchill Downs, where you can visit the Kentucky Derby Museum, walk the track, and see the graves of famous thoroughbreds. After a stop at Aurora, Indiana, and another day’s barging, the cruise culminates in Cincinnati, known in steamboat days as the Queen City of the West, and once one of the busiest ports on the Ohio River.

When to Go April to November. The Kentucky Derby is in the first week of May, so race fans may want to time their trip to coincide with a day at the races.

How Long Cruises last eight days and take you from Nashville to Cincinnati.

Planning Some cruises are available from Cincinnati to Nashville. Other destinations are also available.

Inside Information Take binoculars to watch the river and wildlife from the Sun Deck.

Website www.riverbarge.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ The music scene in Nashville gets your trip off to a swinging start—be sure to visit the Grand Ole Opry.

■ In Paducah explore its 19th-century downtown area with its many antique shops. Also visit the Museum of the American Quilter’s Society.

■ At Aurora, Indiana, visit Hillforest, a National Historic Landmark, overlooking the Ohio River. Home of the industrialist Thomas Gaff from 1855 to 1891, the house includes nautical architectural features and period furnishings.

■ Relax on the Sun Deck and watch the river glide by.

SOUTH CAROLINA/GEORGIA/FLORIDA

CHARLESTON AND THE LOWCOUNTRY CRUISE

Historic homes and gardens line the shore in Charleston, South Carolina.

Antebellum mansions, unspoiled beaches, and tree-shaded waterways are hallmarks of this trip.

This ravishing realm of sea islands, gracious antebellum towns, and wildlife-filled salt marshes is known as the Lowcountry—one of the United States’ most mysterious and compelling regions. The ship is small—more a large motor yacht than a cruise liner—and the scale of things intimate as you head south from historic Charleston, hugging the shoreline along the blue highway of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. The ship puts into Beaufort, South Carolina, and Savannah, Georgia, where the 19th-century mansions of rice and cotton barons line narrow lanes shaded by moss-draped oaks. Beyond, you sail past vast salt marshes where egrets and herons wade, and myriad waterways trace sinuous curves through stands of golden cordgrass. Here and there, you glimpse an antebellum plantation house surrounded by its gardens. Farther south, you reach Georgia’s wild and beautiful Sea Islands, with long pristine beaches. They were once a summer retreat for the rich and, on Jekyll Island, you can tour the lavish seaside cottages of families like the Vanderbilts, Morgans, and Pulitzers.

When to Go Most cruises depart in April, a beautiful time of year, when the exquisite gardens of Charleston and Savannah are in bloom.

How Long 250 miles (402 km) on a seven-day, eight-night cruise between Charleston, SC, and Jacksonville, Fl.

Planning Historic Charleston is one of the most popular destinations in the southeast, and if you have an extra day or two in your schedule, include plans to explore more of the elegant historic district and savor the gracious lifestyle.

Inside Information April weather offers warm days, cool breezes, and low humidity. Wear comfortable walking shoes and have good binoculars onboard for bird-watching, especially in the Sea Islands.

Website www.cruisewest.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Shop at the old Charleston Market, where Gullah women—descendents of freed slaves—sell intricately woven sweetgrass baskets and other crafts.

■ The romantic charm of Beaufort, SC, makes it a favorite with movie directors—scenes from The Big Chill and Forrest Gump were shot here. Get an ice cream at Southern Sweets, and enjoy it on the porch swings that line the waterfront.

■ Stroll along the cobblestone streets of old Savannah, GA, past 18th- and 19th-century mansions.

■ Sample the bounty of shrimp, crabs, and oysters harvested in local waters.

TOP 10

CITY BOAT TRIPS

Mingle with the locals and enjoy picture-postcard views of some of the world’s great cities by ferry.

1 Vancouver

Ferries, Canada

State-of-the-art ferries cross sparkling waters between Vancouver and the surrounding islands, passing dense deciduous forests and snowy peaks, glimpsed distantly across the water. Ferries run more frequently in summer.

Planning Buy a SailPass online if you’ll be exploring the coastal region of British Columbia. They are available for four- and seven-day periods. www.bcferries.com

2

Staten Island Ferry, New York City

Speed past the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island as the mighty tower blocks of Manhattan cast long shadows across the surface of New York harbor. Five miles and 25 minutes later, you reach Staten Island. Get off to explore New York’s least known borough or stay on the ferry and return to Manhattan. Best of all, the trip is free!

Planning No booking necessary—the ferries depart from Whitehall Terminal in Manhattan and St. George Terminal on Staten Island every half hour. The ferry is free for foot passengers. www.nyc.gov/html/dot/html/masstran/ferries/statfery.html

3 San Francisco to Sausalito Ferry, California

On the 30-minute ferry ride, you’ll see splendid views of Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz prison, Angel Island, and the San Francisco skyline. Be sure to go on a clear day: San Francisco’s famous fog often obscures the views.

Planning Ferries leave from behind the San Francisco Ferry Building at the foot of Market Street. You can even take your bike. www.goldengateferry.org

4 New Orleans to Algiers Ferry, Louisiana

The stately Algiers ferry carries passengers (for free!) across the Mississippi River between the old neighborhood of Algiers Point and the rest of New Orleans.

Planning The ferry leaves seven days a week and runs every quarter hour, so no booking is necessary. www.neworleansonline.com/tools/transportation/gettingaround/ferry.html

5

Star Ferry, Hong Kong, China

Running between Hong Kong island and the Kowloon mainland, the famous Star Ferry takes only five minutes, but delivers a spectacular view of the city skyline, especially later in the day when the sun is setting.

Planning No booking required. Ferries leave about every ten minutes, depending on the time of day. www.starferry.com.hk/new/en/index.asp

6 Brisbane CityCat, Australia

The sleek, modern CityCats of Brisbane seem almost to hover above the surface of the water. Take an exhilarating ride along the Brisbane River, past Story Bridge and South Bank Parklands. CityCats are fast—for a more sedate experience and a chance to admire the city at leisure, go for an open-air City Ferry.

Planning Tickets are sold by zone, enabling you to use all modes of public transport within a zone. www.brisbane.qld.gov.au; www.translink.com.au

7

Bosphorus Ferry, Istanbul, Turkey

The delicate minarets and ornate architecture of Istanbul are spread out before you from the deck of a Bosphorus ferry in this city that sits on the cusp of two continents. Sip tea in the open air as the ferry carries you past the most splendid sights in the city—from Ottoman palaces to the Bosphorus Bridge.

Planning June to August can be hot and humid, while November to January can be very cold. Women should dress modestly. www.istanbul.com/splash.html

8

Venice Vaporetto, Italy

Although gondolas may be romantic, true Venetians speed round the city in vaporettos, or water buses. You can get in the mood of the city straight from the airport. A vaporetto will take you into the city with stops at Murano and the Lido, Venice’s beach, before dropping you off right in St. Mark’s Square. Other routes head to different parts of the city. Take a ferry trip to one of the city’s islands or the Lido, for a glimpse of a less touristy Venice.

Planning Traveling without a ticket can result in a hefty fine. If you can’t buy a ticket on shore, be sure to buy one from the conductor when you board. Tourist travel cards and passes are available. www.actv.it/english/home.php

9

Naples to Capri Ferry, Italy

The Bay of Naples boasts some of the most attractive coastline in the world. Take a boat ride from Naples to Capri over the azure sea and explore the famous Blue Grotto, where the cavern is naturally illuminated with blue light. Time your trip so that you can get to Capri for lunch; many restaurants have great views of Naples, which you can enjoy along with your Spaghetti Vongole and a glass of the local white wine made from grapes grown in Etna’s rich volcanic soil.

Planning Depart from the Port of Molo Beverello in Naples. The trip takes around 80 minutes. www.capri.net

!

Mersey Ferry, Liverpool, England

The famous red-and-black ferries of Liverpool take an hour to cross the great Mersey River. Dating back to the 12th century, this is the oldest ferry service in Europe. As well as the standard ferry service, there are also tours of the Merseyside area and themed cruises for special occasions. The Beatles cruise celebrates the city’s links with the Fab Four, who all lived in the city.

Planning Standard cruises depart every 20 minutes from Seacombe Ferry Terminal and Pier Head. www.merseyferries.co.uk

A nighttime trip on the Star Ferry is worth it for the view alone. The five-minute journey is one of the best ways of savoring the light-jeweled splendor of Hong Kong’s fabled skyline.

LOUISIANA/MISSISSIPPI/ARKANSAS/TENNESSEE

MISSISSIPPI RIVER PADDLE STEAMER

Paddle steamers were once the lifeblood of trade and passenger transport along the Mississippi and its tributaries.

Experience a bygone age aboard a classic steamboat and immerse yourself in the rich culture and history of the Deep South.

Hurricane Katrina in September 2005 altered the cultural and physical profile of New Orleans and its environs, but the lower Mississippi River and its legendary maritime traffic keep on rollin’. Traveling upriver from New Orleans to Memphis, you experience the living history of America’s largest river, aboard one of the signature relics of a bygone age—a stern-wheeler steamship, updated with such modern comforts as large staterooms and fine food. The pace is leisurely, giving you plenty of time to savor live Dixieland jazz bands and the passing vistas of riverside plantation mansions and their gardens—one of the grandest of them, Oak Alley, is a stop along the way. Other ports of call include Natchez and Vicksburg, Mississippi, mingling the antebellum grace of tree-lined streets and the lavish town houses of 19th-century cotton magnates with the still-living echoes of Elvis and the great bluesmen, from Muddy Waters to B. B. King.

When to Go Cruises depart all year round.

How Long New Orleans to Memphis is a seven-night trip. Four- to eight-night round-trip cruises are also available.

Planning Book well in advance. Other trips are also available, ranging far and wide across the river system of the Mississippi basin—as far north as St. Paul, MN, and as far east as Cincinnati and Pittsburgh on the Ohio River.

Inside Information Dress is casual. Staff expect to be tipped—tip a lump sum at the end of the cruise.

Website www.majesticamericaline.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Get up before dawn at least one morning to watch the sun rise over the river.

■ Enjoy the steamer’s Victorian-style furnishings and its nightly musical entertainments, which cover a range of traditional genres, from ragtime to bluegrass.

■ An avenue of ancient oak trees leads up to Oak Alley, among Louisiana’s finest surviving plantation houses. It was built in the Greek Revival style in the 1830s for Jacques Telesphore Roman, a member of one of the state’s wealthiest families.

■ Before the Civil War, Natchez had more millionaires per capita than any other U.S. city. Their legacy survives in its constellation of stately mansions, famed for their lavish interiors.

■ Vicksburg’s National Military Park commemorates the Siege of Vicksburg in 1863, one of the key battles of the Civil War.

FLORIDA

AIRBOAT IN THE EVERGLADES

Saw grass spreads out on either side as an airboat takes visitors through the Everglades.

Ride on a jet of wind through the saw grass to meet the biggest alligators—an essential experience of Florida’s Everglades.

Light airboats, powered by huge caged fans mounted on the stern, whip you across the Everglades. They are the best introduction to this vast subtropical wetland—a 40-mile (64 kilometer) wide river of saw grass, punctuated with cypress swamps and mangrove forests, which flows lethargically southward from Lake Okeechobee for more than 100 miles (160 kilometers). Egrets and herons clatter into the sky as the boat’s pilot navigates through an ever-changing labyrinth of channels—no place for outboard motors, whose propellers become jammed with reeds and mud. Soon, you are in the remote backcountry, where you encounter the Everglades’ most famous inhabitants—alligators—which get bigger and more fearsome-seeming the farther you venture. If the airboat ride has whetted your appetite, you may want to penetrate the wetland’s even more secret places, set apart in Everglades National Park, where only nonmotorized boats are allowed on most lakes. Here, you may be lucky enough to glimpse a rare Florida panther or one of the endearing, cumbersome-looking manatees—huge aquatic mammals that frequent shallow waters, grazing on mangrove leaves and algae.

When to Go Winter (December to April) has mild and pleasant weather, but can sometimes be cold. June to October is the rainy season—and also the season for mosquitoes and hurricanes.

How Long Tours can last just 20 minutes, but to see a full range of landscape and wildlife you need at least two hours for a 40-mile (64 km) round trip.

Planning There are numerous airboat operators, and several points of departure. Boats vary in size. Some take just one or two passengers (best for high-thrills tours), while larger boats take up to 24 (best for more gentle scenic tours). You can rent canoes in the National Park at Flamingo and Gulf Coast.

Inside Information Many airboat operators provide earmuffs to combat the engine noise. In summer, bring protection against mosquitoes.

Websites www.cypressairboats.com, www.airboatusa.com, www.everglades.national-park.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ The wildlife includes a multitude of bird species—anhingas, cranes, storks, roseate spoonbills—as well as turtles, lustrous dragonflies, Florida black bears, mangrove fox squirrels, and Everglades minks.

■ Canoeing trails take you through areas such as Nine Mile Pond and Hells Bay, perfect for bird-watching.

■ The Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum on the Big Cypress Indian Reservation is dedicated to the culture and history of the Everglades’ Seminole Indians.

■ Campsites that can only be reached by boat allow you to savor the solitude of the wilderness overnight.

On the island sanctuary of St. John, lush rain forest encroaches on secluded beaches of fine white sand, with great snorkeling close to shore.

CARIBBEAN

EASTERN CARIBBEAN CRUISE

Left: Pink allamandas blossom on Guadeloupe. Right: A cruise ship approaches Virgin Gorda.

A cruise through the breathtaking waters of the Caribbean offers luxury, shopping, and outdoor fun.

Cerulean, azure, turquoise, and sapphire are the colors of the Eastern Caribbean, and they are as intoxicating as the arc of emerald islands found there: St. Martin, Antigua, Puerto Rico, Anguilla, as well as countless smaller isles waiting to be discovered. Renowned for their pristine strands of white sand, palm trees swaying in gentle sea breezes, coral reefs teeming with riotous rainbows of tropical fish, and lively towns filled with calypso music, the legendary islands of the Caribbean are synonymous with paradise. The best way to explore this watery wonderland is aboard a cruise ship, and there is a bewildering array of packages to fit every lifestyle and budget. Most ships offer lavish onboard entertainment in between port calls, ranging from golf lessons to karaoke; but it is the shore excursions that make this the world’s number one cruise destination. On St. Thomas, you can go duty-free shopping in renovated 17th-century warehouses. On St. Martin, eat at one of the many superb French restaurants on the northern side of the island. These islands have something for everyone—idyllic beaches, watersports, and rum cocktails existing alongside a rich history of trading, piracy, and colonialism. To make the most of your trip, consider booking a place on a high-tech sailing ship, which can offer the experience of big-ship luxuries with small-ship intimacy—and, of course, the romance of sailing.

When to Go Many cruises are available all year round. The peak season months (and the highest prices) are from December to April.

How Long Most cruises average about seven days, but longer cruises of 10 to 14 days are available if you want to visit more islands.

Planning If your schedule is flexible, many cruise lines offer last-minute bargains. November travel is also often a bargain.

Inside Information Casual clothing is the order of the day, though some ships require semiformal dress for dinners. The tropical sun is strong—bring hats, sunglasses, and sunblock.

Websites www.windstarcruises.com, www.carnival.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Snorkel through a wonderland of living coral around St. Thomas and St. Martin. The easily accessible reefs offer a kaleidoscope of fabulous hues: bright yellow-and-black damselfish, pink anemones, orange clownfish, and gently waving fans of red coral.

■ Shop till you drop in seaside towns that date to the days of Christopher Columbus. Top stops include St. Thomas’ Charlotte Amalie, tiny Cruz Bay on St. John, and the duty-free stores of Philipsburg on St. Martin.

■ Take a hike inland to escape from the tourist trails. These once-volcanic islands feature trails through the high hills that offer views of fabulous seascapes, crystalline bays and coves, and luxuriant tropical landscapes.

■ Visit lush botanical gardens filled with richly scented tropical flowers, where brightly colored parrots flit from tree to tree and hummingbirds hover like floating gemstones among the brilliant blossoms.

NICARAGUA

LAKE NICARAGUA

A rowing boat lies moored on the shore of Ometepe Island on Lake Nicaragua. Concepción volcano looms in the background.

Explore the tropical wonders of Nicaragua’s Sweet Sea, one of the largest lakes in the world.

This vast, tropical, freshwater lake, bordered by volcanoes and peppered with green islets, is known locally as the Sweet Sea. It lies about 10 miles (16 kilometers) from the Pacific Coast and is connected to the Caribbean by the San Juan River. It is so large—3,190 square miles (8,262 square kilometers)—that when the Spanish conquistadors arrived, they believed they had discovered another ocean. An exploration of this shimmering expanse of water will take you around some of the 350 lush, tropical islands, including Ometepe, the largest in the lake, where twin conical volcanoes rise majestically to the sky, and where you can swim off one of the deserted sandy beaches. The Solentiname archipelago, a chain of 36 unspoiled islets, scarcely populated and shaded by huge mango trees, is home to some extraordinary wildlife, including ancient turtles and striped boas. Spot the iguanas, as they sun themselves on extended branches, and enjoy the absolute silence, broken only occasionally by the calls of birds. While visiting these islands, don’t miss out on a chance to see the Solentiname artisans, who specialize in paintings of the landscape that glorify its tropical colors and traditions. They happily open up their homes and display artwork to visitors.

When to Go Visit during the first half of the dry season, from December to February, when days are usually sunny and dry and the land is still lush from the rains.

How Long You need two to three nights to see the lake’s highlights. Boat trips between islands rarely take longer than two hours.

Planning If you like to shop it is a good idea to take an empty cloth bag with you, so you can take home some of the beautifully crafted hammocks from the city of Masaya, as well as traditional carved pottery, sold very cheaply in the smaller villages around the lake.

Inside Information Stay on the islands to get a real feel for the region. There are good, cheap hotels and hostels on Ometepe Island and basic accommodation on Mancarrón in the Solentiname archipelago.

Website www.nica-adventures.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Climb Maderas Volcano (4,573 ft/1,394 m), on Ometepe, through thick, tropical jungle. At the top there is a mysterious cold lagoon and fantastic views to the Pacific Ocean.

■ Take a panga (small motorized canoe) through the jungle canals of Los Guatuzos Wildlife Refuge on the Solentiname peninsula, home to 380 bird species. At night, a flashlight reveals hundreds of pairs of eyes glinting on the water’s surface. These are caiman, crocodile-like reptiles.

■ Lake Nicaragua offers excellent sport fishing, with an abundance of swordfish and giant tarpon. Go with a local guide for the best experience.

VENEZUELA

THE ORINOCO RIVER CRUISE

A flock of wood storks alights on a tree in the wetlands by the Orinoco River.

Go on an expedition by canoe and venture into the colossal wetland and steamy jungle of the Orinoco Delta.

Journey along one of the Orinoco River’s tributaries and into the Delta for an intimate exploration of one of the largest and most remote wetland areas on Earth—an area accessible only by motorboat or dugout canoe. An extraordinary diversity of flora and fauna inhabits this sprawling, intricate labyrinth of waterways, which weave their way through dense jungle, mangrove swamps, and lagoons, and out into the Atlantic Ocean. During your voyage you’ll glimpse flashes of colorful birdlife: macaws, toucans, parrots, spoonbills, and jabiru storks. Families of capuchin and howler monkeys hurl themselves in graceful arcs from tree to tree along the riverbank, while bottlenecked river dolphins, piranhas, and anacondas glide beneath the surface of the waters. You will also come into close contact with the Warao (canoe people), native to the region. These skilled fishermen and hunters live in palafitos (wooden houses built on sticks over the river). You can learn about their lifestyle, meet their craftsmen, and even sample a local Warao delicacy: the yellow grub that lives in the Mareche tree.

When to Go In the rainy season—May to December—you can expect short afternoon showers and higher water levels. January to late March/April tends to be dry, and you are likely to see more land mammals (capybaras, foxes, anteaters) and less of the aquatic variety. Trips run throughout the year.

How Long Trips vary from one to three nights, depending on how deep into the jungle you go, and the time of year in which you choose to travel (trips in the dry season are shorter).

Planning The standard of accommodation varies, depending on who organizes your trip. Nights can be spent either in hammocks beneath shelters in traditional Warao villages, or in comfortable private cabins, with bathroom, running water, and electricity.

Inside Information It can get cool at night, particularly during the dry season, so take a light fleece jacket. Mosquitoes are a problem; wear light trousers and long-sleeved shirts for dawn and dusk—and bring repellent as well.

Websites www.angel-ecotours.com, www.ospreyvenezuela.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Visit a Warao village and try the local sticky bread. It is made from the pulp of the Mareche tree, known to the Warao as the tree of life, which is also used for making hammocks and houses.

■ Float into a still lagoon, where the waters are black with tannins and carpeted with a floating mass of water hyacinths.

■ Wake at dawn and hear the jungle stir with the roar of the howler monkey, the chatter of the capuchin, and the myriad birds warming up for their deafening morning chorus.

In Quebrada Pichana in the Peruvian Upper Amazon, local Indians sell food from their canoes.

SOUTH AMERICA

AMAZON RIVER

Left: A macaw perches on a branch at Manaus in northwest Brazil. Right: Large waterlilies float on the Yanayacu River, a tributary of the Upper Amazon in Peru.

Cruise along the Amazon on a classic riverboat for a truly outstanding introduction to the region’s fascinating wildlife, rain forests, and people.

Gliding over the broad, muddy waters of the Amazon, it’s easy to forget that this is the world’s largest river. Rising in the Andes Mountains in Peru, it flows for more than 3,700 miles (6,000 kilometers) to the Atlantic. Tributaries feed in from Bolivia, Ecuador, Colombia, and Venezuela, forming a river system that drains the entire northern half of South America. Large luxury ships cruise the river throughout its course, but a traditional two-decked riverboat offers a more private, relaxed experience—and brings you closer to the rain forest’s vast array of plant and animal life. Standing on deck, you’ll spot friendly children waving from between the foliage, and local fishermen casting nets from the banks, or kneeling to paddle their dugout canoes. As you travel deeper into the jungle and the canopy begins to block out the sunlight, you can visit Indian tribal villages and explore the rain forest—by turns frightening, weird, and stunningly pretty—or visit calm lagoons adorned with giant waterlilies. Onboard, listen to the echoing calls of monkeys and exotic birds while fishing for piranhas, and, in the evening, wrap up warm and head out in a canoe through the dusky twilight in search of sluggish alligators, sliding half-submerged through the water. When darkness has fallen, the boat slips silently downstream, where the blackness of the river is occasionally lit by a lantern or cooking fire, and you can quietly absorb the rich sounds of jungle life.

When to Go Peak flood season in April and May is the best time for bird-watching and seeing primates because of the abundance of fruit. In the low-water season (July-February), some places may become inaccessible, but you’ll see animals come to the dry riverbanks for a drink.

How Long The majority of organized cruises last for eight days, exploring the lower reaches of the river.

Planning Mosquito repellent and light, cotton, long-sleeved shirts and trousers are essential. Take clear plastic bags to protect electronic items, such as cameras, from the high humidity. Pack light—many cruise boats have luggage restrictions.

Inside Information Fast films and flash are a must if you’re an avid photographer—it can be surprisingly dark beneath the rain-forest canopy.

Websites www.amazoncruise.net/river-cruises, www.amazonadventures.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ The amazing wildlife is best seen in the early morning or the evening—pink river dolphins, caimans, alligators, parrots, and parakeets are all visible from the water, while on an inland jungle trip you might see monkeys, iguanas, and butterflies.

■ Break the monotony of the wide flatness of the river with a few trips ashore—most cruises will organize visits to native Indian villages and treks into the jungle.

■ A canoe trip up one of the river’s tributaries is a must. You will be swallowed up by the canopy and get opportunities to see plant- and wildlife and to fish.

■ Catch, cook, and eat red-bellied piranha fish with cane fishing rods—just as the people of the Amazon have done for centuries.

PERU

FERRY OVER LAKE TITICACA

A fisherman stands in his traditional totoro reed boat on Lake Titicaca, drifting past a huge expanse of swaying reeds.

A three-day journey by boat through the islands of the world’s highest navigable lake.

Every morning a flotilla of motor launches leaves the port of Puno on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. First winding through the reed-choked channels of the Gulf of Puno, they putter out into the clear blue waters of the world’s highest navigable lake—a landscape that looks almost Mediterranean—past fleets of small sailboats setting out for a day’s fishing. As you start the voyage, you’ll see the islas flotantes (floating islands), home to the indigenous Uros people, who have lived on the islands since the time of the Incas. These huge rafts are constructed from reeds, cropped from the vast beds that grow around the shores of the shallow, almost landlocked Gulf of Puno. The islands constantly rot away from the bottom up, so new reeds are always being added. Ringed by arid plains and treeless peaks, Lake Titicaca is a true inland sea, lying high in the Andes, 12,500 feet (3,810 meters) above sea level, and fed by the winter rains and summer icemelt of the Andean peaks. Dotted around the lake are natural islands with terraced fields separated by dry stone walls and cactus hedges, and small villages of sturdy stone houses. A few even have sandy beaches for those brave enough to swim in the lake’s chilly waters.

When to Go May to October.

How Long A selection of options, from one- to four-day trips.

Planning Come prepared for extremes of temperature, with fierce sunshine during the day and temperatures close to 32°F (0°C) at night: sunblock and a warm fleece jacket are essential. Also bring a flashlight—not all homes have electricity and few have indoor plumbing.

Inside Information Taquile has the widest choice of places to stay and eat, with rooms in around 70 homes and two small hostels and more than 20 simple restaurants. Very basic food and bottled water are available on Amantani, so bring canned food to share or as gifts (if staying as a paying guest) with island families. Do not bring candy for island children.

Websites www.peru.info, www.peru-explorer.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ Spend some time exploring Puno, the main port on the Peruvian side of the lake. This lively and cosmopolitan small town has colorful markets and a main street lined with restaurants serving typical Peruvian dishes, such as alpaca steaks and roast guinea pig, as well as fish from the lake.

■ Each island has its own culture, typified by colorful costumes—with sashes, shawls, and hats woven from wool and dyed in elaborate patterns.

■ Stay overnight on the natural islands of Taquile or Amantani. Both islands offer basic accommodation in islanders’ homes or simple guesthouses.

CHINA

YANGTZE RIVER—THE THREE GORGES

Above the town of Wushan, a Chinese pavilion affords splendid views over the Yangtze River and the mouth of the Wu Gorge, the second of the three great gorges.

Take China’s greatest river journey through the winding Three Gorges, past ancient sites and modern engineering marvels.

The Yangtze River flows for 3,964 miles (6,380 kilometers) across China from its source in the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau to its mouth on the East China Sea, just north of Shanghai. Although the river is no longer the great commercial highway it once was, a variety of passenger ships still travel along its most famous section, where it rushes through the winding and constricted Three Gorges. Here, forbidding cliffs throw cruise ship, coal barge, and fishing vessel alike into shadow, and the yellowing sails of traditional sampan boats can be seen bobbing next to the smart white hulls of hi-tech modern tourist vessels. In addition to assorted side trips up tributaries and to temples—which have been relocated to save them from flooding—there is also the attraction of visiting the world’s most colossal dam, a newly completed great wall of steel and concrete, 600 feet (180 meters) high and more than 1 mile (1.6 kilometers) across.

When to Go Early fall is best. You may coincide with the Harvest Moon Festival, when families reunite and gather outside to see and celebrate the brightest moon of the year.

How Long Trips begin or end with a one-hour bus journey to or from Yichang. Three or four nights are needed on cruise ships to reach Chongqing, or around 12 hours by hydrofoil (Sandouping-Wanxian), which includes bus links to Yichang and Chongqing.

Planning Save up to 60 percent by booking at the docks in Yichang or Chongqing instead of making advance bookings through agents or websites. Or pay even less by joining the Chinese on a Sputnik-era Russian hydrofoil.

Inside Information Top-notch cruise ship food is often bland, and cheap Chinese ferry or hydrofoil food inedible. Pack snacks, including bottled water if on cheaper boats.

Websites www.victoriacruises.com, www.orientroyalcruise.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ The imposing Three Gorges Dam at Sandouping, just upstream from Yichang, will eventually hold back a 400-mile (645 km) reservoir and generate as much electricity as 15 nuclear power plants.

■ Gaze upward while passing through the Three Gorges, Qutang, Wu, and Xiling, which force the abundant river traffic to zigzag between steep cliffs.

■ Enjoy the spectacular views along the river from the red wooden pagoda of the Shibaozhai (Stone Treasure Fortress) Temple, 175 miles (280 km) from Chongqing.

CHINA

THE LI RIVER

Wooden tourist boats await passengers at dock at Xingping on the Li River.

This half-day cruise presents an idyllic China as you pass by scenery that inspired countless scroll paintings.

Between bustling Guilin and the village of Yangshuo, in the northeastern part of Guangxi province, the skyline is punctuated by sharp, green-trimmed peaks of karst limestone, jostling each other for space on the banks of the Li Jiang, or Li River. Rising like crooked teeth above the water, the stark shapes of these mountains have given rise to a host of names—such as Elephant Trunk Hill, where a gigantic limestone elephant dips its trunk into the current to drink, or Mural Hill, on which a multicolored rock face forms a dazzling natural mural. Others are named after immortal gods or mundane household objects. The river itself snakes lazily past huge sprays of skyrocketing bamboo shoots and peasant children riding on docile water buffalo. Onboard one of the many tourist barges, you’ll enjoy a traditional Chinese meal as a banquet of scenery slides past the windows. This short stretch of river has provided inspiration for generations of painters and poets. At night in Yangshuo cormorant fishermen take visitors out on the river to watch their trained birds dive below the surface for fish, a technique that the villagers of Guangxi have practiced for centuries on the shallow waters of the Li River.

When to Go Spring and fall provide the most comfortable temperatures. Summer is wet and steamy.

How Long Depending on water levels, there may be a 15-mile (24 km) bus journey to a dock outside Guilin, taking 30 minutes, then four to five hours on the river for 52 miles (84 km).

Planning No advanced booking is necessary; you can buy tickets at the dock. A hot pot-style meal is usually included in the price.

Inside Information Foreigners are usually charged double and herded onto tourist vessels, but the determined traveler can still sometimes get onto Chinese boats by using local agents charging proper local prices—at the cost of an English-speaking tour guide.

Website www.travelchinaguide.com

HIGHLIGHTS

■ The collection of peaks reflected in the water between Yangdi and Xingping represents one of China’s most famous landscapes, appearing on both ancient scroll paintings and modern banknotes.

■ The cormorant fishermen’s lanterns bob over the evening river, as the birds dart down into pools of light and return with wriggling mouthfuls for their masters.

■ Enjoy quiet Yangshuo after the last bar closes, with views from hotel rooftops of spiny moonlit peaks.

LAOS

THE MEKONG RIVER

Fishermen retire for the day as the sun sets on the Mekong near the city of Louangphrabang in Laos.

Take a slow boat along the great Mekong River and gaze out at the misty riverbanks of Laos.

From high up in the mountains