Going Against the Grain: How Reducing and Avoiding Grains Can Revitalize Your Health
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Diets high in grains can lead to a host of health problems such as obesity, diabetes, heart disease, fatigue, and more. Going Against the Grain outlines the disadvantages and potential dangers of eating various types of grains and provides practical, realistic advice on implementing a plan to cut back or eliminate grains on a daily basis. This book also includes easy-to-follow grain-free recipes and helpful suggestions for dining out.
Melissa Diane Smith
Melissa combines the investigative research skills she honed in journalism school with her nutrition training and more than 20 years of clinical nutrition experience to stay up to date on nutrition research and provide clients with personalized timely nutrition advice. She is a Phi Beta Kappa graduate from the University of Arizona, earned a diploma in nutrition and Graduate of the Year honors from the American Academy of Nutrition, and received advanced nutrition training from the Designs for Health Institute.
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Going Against the Grain - Melissa Diane Smith
too.
Introduction
Grains may seem the staff of life, but they’re really scythes that insidiously whittle away most people’s health.
Although the U.S. government promotes a high intake of grains (such as pastas, breads, and cereals), following this strategy actually sets us up for health problems.
To stay fit and free of disease, all of us should eat fewer grains. Some of us should eat no grains at all.
If these statements contradict everything you’ve heard about diet, I can understand. More than a decade ago, they would have seemed radical to me as well—the antithesis of what I had been taught to believe. But experience and research have taught me that grains have an unrecognized—but very strong—dark side. Eating a lot of them can lead to virtually every one of the health problems plaguing North Americans today—including obesity, heart disease, diabetes, some types of cancer, fatigue, minor and serious digestive disorders, dementia, and psychological problems. To prevent these health complaints—and to feel and look our best—we need to understand the littleknown dangers of grains, and then go against the grain of social pressure to avoid eating these foods morning, noon, and night.
In a society where wheat is eaten at almost every meal, pasta is promoted as a healthy food, and the heart of the continent is endearingly referred to as the bread basket,
it seems almost sacrilegious (or un-American) to speak out against grains. However, the research pointing to the health benefits of a low- to no-grain diet is simply too convincing to ignore. Going Against the Grain will cut through the hype you have come to believe and food companies want you to believe—that grains should be the centerpiece of your diet. Instead, this book will present convincing evidence that grains should play a minimal role in your diet.
Even if you presently eat a lot of grains and feel healthy, this book still has an important message for you. It will make you aware of the potential long-term dangers of an excessive intake of grains and will explain why a diet that favors vegetables over grains is the secret of success for long-term weight control and health.
What This Book Reveals
Here’s a sampling of the nutrition insights this book reveals:
• Refined grains, such as pastas, breads, rolls, bagels, muffins, and most cereals, form the foundation of most Americans’ diets. By loading up on these foods, you set yourself up for degenerative diseases such as heart disease and adult-onset diabetes.
• Whole grains, which are often recommended by many nutritionists in place of refined grains, have more nutrients than nutrient-stripped refined grains, but they also have many antinutrients that inhibit nutrient absorption and interfere with health. Eating a lot of whole grains—something advocated by many health-food experts—can ultimately cause nutrient deficiencies and set the stage for such diseases as anemia, osteoporosis, and autoimmune disorders.
• Millions of people unknowingly have sensitivity to gluten, a protein in many common grains. Sometimes taking the form of silent celiac disease,
gluten sensitivity slowly erodes people’s health, damages the intestinal tract, and greatly increases the risk for nutrient deficiencies, small intestine cancer, autoimmune diseases, and osteoporosis. Unlike people with classic celiac disease, who have obvious symptoms such as bloating, weight loss, and diarrhea, most people who have gluten sensitivity are asymptomatic or have very nonspecific, vague symptoms, such as fatigue, a nearly universal complaint.
• Grain allergies and addictions (especially to wheat) are exceedingly common, and they are unrecognized contributors to the growing epidemic of obesity. Like alcoholics, many people repeatedly eat foods they’re allergic to at every meal to get a temporary high
from druglike compounds in them. When that feeling wears off, they crave another fix
of the problem food to regain that euphoric feeling. Unrecognized grain allergies and addictions set the stage for just-gotto-have-it cravings, binge-eating, and overeating, which ultimately lead to weight gain.
If you’ve been socialized to believe grains are good for you (as virtually everybody in modern society has), this information may be a bit unsettling—it probably turns your belief system upside down. (It might sound like I’m saying, The sky is green, and the grass is blue.
) Don’t worry, though. You have in your hands the one book that will take you step by step through what you need to know to gradually change your belief system and your actions to go against the grain and revitalize your health.
Why should I debunk the status quo message sung by mainstream doctors and dietitians for decades? It’s high time someone did. No one else seems to be speaking out on this topic, and the health of North Americans is suffering in the process. More important, my firsthand experience has convinced me of the need to stand up to critics and go against the grain of conventional dietary wisdom.
My Story
Fifteen years ago, I worked at a world-famous health resort known for its ability to transform overweight guests into slimmer and presumably healthier people. As a public relations writer for the spa, I wrote stories that educated and inspired guests and employees about the value of the low-fat, high-carbohydrate, grain-rich diet. This was a health prescription I believed was beneficial for everyone, but my personal and professional experiences since then have drastically altered my views about nutrition. They have led me to the surprising but inescapable conclusion that eating a high-grain diet is hazardous to most people’s health over the long term.
In retrospect, I should have recognized the signs warning me I didn’t thrive on a high-grain diet. For one thing, I was just plain hungry much of the time. I didn’t want to lose my trim figure though, so I tried to ignore my hunger pangs and kept a tight rein on what I ate. Other warning signs appeared. Less than a year into my job at the spa, I came down with a series of viruses and strep throat infections. Six months later, I looked puffy and started to gain weight. Although I was not eating much food, I found it increasingly difficult to fit into my size 6 skirts and slacks and eventually outgrew them altogether. In addition, I—the editor of the health resort’s employee newsletter—always had been an organized thinker with a sharp mind, but I often had trouble remembering if a story had been written or even if I had assigned it to someone!
It never once occurred to me that my diet could be contributing to my health problems. I paid dearly for this naïveté. Labor Day weekend of 1987 I developed a very severe, mysterious, flulike illness (much later diagnosed as chronic fatigue syndrome) that I could not shake. I then began a five-year odyssey in which I desperately searched for answers and solutions for my health problems. After seeing a series of doctors who were baffled by my condition and unable to help me, I turned in desperation to nutrition. At first I tried eating what I thought were healthful foods, especially vegetarian, macrobiotic, and other meals centered around grains. But the more I ate light foods—something virtually everyone in nutrition advocated at the time—the more my health worsened. I experienced an aggravation of my sore throats, increased digestive discomfort and bloating, depression, and greater difficulty getting out of bed each morning. Perhaps even more shocking to me was the lighter I ate, the heavier I became. By spring of 1988,1 had ballooned to 145 pounds and found myself having to buy a size 13 pair of pants because none of my other clothes fit me!
Frustrated beyond belief, I delved further into nutrition books and health magazines and decided to try a radical new strategy: a wheat-free, hypoallergenic diet rich in lean animal protein and lots of vegetables. Going against the grain of prevailing nutritional wisdom and the spa-type diet I believed in was a challenge, but a strange—and wonderful—thing happened during my experiment: I started to gradually, effortlessly lose fat. I didn’t understand why but was elated with this development and stuck with the diet, difficult as it seemed. After about six months, I lost all the weight I had gained and was back to 115 pounds.
I wasn’t entirely free of chronic fatigue syndrome, but because I had regained my slim figure, I thought I could go off my diet. What a mistake! I didn’t understand then that a diet low in grains was actually the food plan I needed for optimal, long-term health.
Naturally, I wanted to add wheat back to my diet, not only because everyone in America was eating wheat but also because I was literally crazy about it before I started my therapeutic diet. I thought as long as I avoided nutrient-stripped white-flour products and ate only whole grains, I could add wheat back. What I discovered, though, again surprised me. I found that when I ate wheat after avoiding it for a long time, I initially felt euphoric and wanted to binge on it. A day later, though, I felt even more tired, sick, and depressed than usual and was plagued by digestive problems. Through trial and error, I eventually found similar unpleasant reactions after I ate oats and other gluten-containing grains, such as rye, barley, spelt and kamut.
This experience frustrated me once again. On the one hand, I had stumbled on a diet that was truly therapeutic for me—a diet that was enabling me to recover from chronic fatigue syndrome when nothing else could. I was feeling and looking good, better than I had in years. Everything indicated that following this diet was my best shot to conquer my sickness. On the other hand, I wanted desperately to be normal
and not go against the grain. I wanted to eat and be like everybody else and not be weird or make waves or stand out like a sore thumb. A real tug-of-war was going on inside me.
Fortunately, my desire for health won out. Although I certainly had my setbacks, occasionally succumbing to the tremendous pressure in our grain-obsessed world, the fact that I felt so lousy after eating grains kept me on the straight and narrow as time went on. The seriousness of chronic fatigue syndrome forced me to persist on a diet that went against the grain (at least the gluten grains), and this was a blessing in disguise. My diet not only allowed me to regain my health but to maintain it ever since.
The Stories of Others
Despite my success with a gluten-free, low-grain diet, I didn’t talk about it much. I was actually a bit embarrassed and thought I was just one weird exception to the rule that high-grain diets were good for people. That idea changed, though, after I received my nutrition education from the American Academy of Nutrition and became a nutrition counselor.
When I first started to counsel people, most of my clients complained about gaining weight even though they were following the widely promoted low-fat, high-carbohydrate, high-grain diet to a T. This refrain sounded very familiar to me, so I advised them to cut down on grains (especially wheat) and instead eat more vegetables. One by one, over and over again, my clients came back telling me how pleased they were with this strategy. As long as they followed this way of eating, they lost both fat and water weight, trimmed down (especially through the middle), and often had digestive complaints clear up or a lessening of heart disease risk factors, such as a reduction of high blood pressure, cholesterol, or triglycerides. These results were dramatic!
However, my clients complained about how hard it was to keep eating this way, especially when they were eating out, because they encountered wheat-based foods at every turn. Isn’t there some way I can go back to my old way of eating and get the same health results?
they would plead. I would relay my experience and the experiences of other clients—that eating a lot of grains subtly degraded health—and convince them to stick with the low-grain diet. Then I would spend most of my time counseling them on the practical ways they could keep going against the grain for their health while still leading as normal and sociable a life as possible.
My professional experience as a nutrition counselor and my personal experience were not the only things that shaped my strong belief in the widespread health benefits of a low-grain diet. As a health journalist, I have interviewed dozens of physicians and nutrition professionals who have witnessed the same dramatic results with low-grain diets, and I have seen a wealth of scientific studies pile up about the health hazards of grains. From all fronts, the message has been getting louder and louder to speak out and let the world know about the importance of going against the grain for health. I heard the call, and that’s what this book is all about.
In Chapters 1 and 2, you’ll learn how we’ve been seduced into eating an excess of grains, even though the diet we were designed for contained few or no grains. The next four chapters will give you cutting-edge information about the many nutritional problems with grains and the types of health complaints these problems can lead to. The second half of the book will help you identify your individual sensitivity to grains and the type of against-the-grain diet that is best for you. It will also provide original menu plans, recipes, and eating out suggestions, so that you can go against the grain with minimal effort and hassle.
No matter what your health concern is—whether you are trying to lose weight, fend off fatigue and digestive bloating, or simply prevent heart disease or diabetes—do yourself a favor and sit back and delve into this book. If you use the book to help you go against the grain (to the degree that’s best for you), I’m confident you will substantially reduce your risks for numerous age-related degenerative diseases and find yourself looking and feeling better than you have in years.
SECTION I
THE PROBLEMS WITH GRAINS
CHAPTER 1
Grain Gluttony and Grain-O-Mania
Grain gluttony and grain-o-mania have overtaken our nation. So pervasive are grains in our diet that many of us don’t realize we’re eating grains in different forms every day, usually at every meal. Think cereal, toast or bagels for breakfast. . . sandwiches for lunch . . . muffins, doughnuts, or cookies for coffee breaks . . . pretzels or corn chips for snacks . . . pasta, pizza, or Mexican food for dinner. What’s more, many of us don’t eat just small portions of grain-based foods. We long for more and more of these foods and end up eating way too many of them. Grain-o-mania, therefore, is an excessive, persistent enthusiasm, interest, liking, or craving for grains, and grain gluttony is eating grains with abandon, especially habitually.
Grain-o-mania is so common that most people find it hard to imagine life without grains. Grain-o-maniacs get so much pleasure out of grains that they share stories of to-die-for
croissants at one restaurant, addictive
cornbread at another restaurant, and awesome
fettucini and tortellini at a third. Grain gluttony goes hand in hand with grain-o-mania and is so accepted in our society that most people don’t think it’s unusual to truly pig out
on grains. Grain gluttons love restaurants that have never-ending pasta bowls and all-you-can-eat Chinese food. They stuff their faces, then go back for one, two, three, or four more helpings.
Grain-o-mania
an excessive, persistent enthusiasm, interest, liking, or craving for grains
Grain gluttony
pigging out
on grains, especially habitually
What’s Wrong with a High Intake of Grains?
You may think there’s nothing wrong with loading up on grains. After all, grains are good for us, aren’t they? Well, no, that’s a common misconception. The surprising truth is that grains aren’t good for any of us in large amounts, and for some of us, they aren’t good in any amounts at all. You’ll learn all about these revelations in future chapters, but here are a few basics:
• Grains are high in carbohydrates and high in calories, especially when compared to the nutrients they provide.
• Grains are used to fatten up livestock, and they do the same to us when we eat them in excess.
• Millions of people are intolerant to common grains and develop allergic symptoms; aches and pains; malabsorption of nutrients; and/or bloating, gas, and other digestive upsets from eating them.
• High-grain diets are associated with, or implicated in, most modernday health problems—everything from bone diseases, such as osteoporosis, to autoimmune diseases, such as autoimmune thyroid disease, to the major killers of today, such as heart disease, Type 2 diabetes, and some types of cancer.
Factors That Have Led to a High Intake of Grains
Naturally, you may be wondering: if grains aren’t that good for us, why do most of us believe they are? And why have grains become such a major focus of our day-to-day attention, desire, and diets? Well, the answers to those questions are complicated. There are many pieces to the puzzle.
Availability, Social Programming, Advertising, and Promotions
First, grains are everywhere in our society: they permeate the culture on all levels and in all places. Grains are found in many shapes and forms at every restaurant, supermarket, food court, and concession stand. Think about the omnipresent complimentary bread basket in restaurants; the thousands of products that line the inner aisles of supermarkets; the supersize pretzels and cookies in shopping mall food courts; and the nachos, pizza, and beer offered at sporting events. Wherever we go, even on plane rides or boat cruises, grains are there: they show up as mystery snack mixes, muffins, sandwiches, and pasta dishes. Because grains are so available, most of us end up eating them out of sheer convenience if nothing else—even if we don’t realize it or really want to.
Second, we’ve been socialized to believe that grains are good for us. We grew up learning that grains were one of the four major food groups essential to a balanced diet, at least as important as fruits and vegetables and more important than meat. In more recent years, we’ve heard about the food pyramid guideline, which makes grains the most important food group and suggests an unrealistic intake of six to eleven servings of grains per day. These guidelines have seeped into early grade-school education and the media’s coverage of health stories. We, in turn, keep hearing the message, whether it’s in the background or the foreground. So, for most of us, it’s a given that grains are important foods, and we should eat a lot of them. Few of us have had the opportunity to hear any negatives about grains, so few question the grains-are-good idea. Even if we do question it, we reason that because everyone believes this, it must be true.
Third, food manufacturers, supermarkets, and restaurants offer us many incentives to eat a lot of grains. That’s because grain-based foods have long shelf lives, can be twisted into virtually any shape or form imaginable, and are cheap to make. Food purveyors, therefore, love to push these foods because they can mark them up for a huge profit and make a lot of money. For example, bread is made from about five cents of wheat, but it usually sells for one to four dollars a loaf. Supermarkets and bakeries then sometimes give us coupons or special prices
to make us think we’re getting a deal by buying the bread. Similar promotions occur with cereal and other grain products. Advertisers also up the ante by running ads for cereals and breads that use warm and fuzzy terms such as full of hearty grains and country goodness
and farm-fresh bread
: they know how to appeal to our inner desire for fresh, wholesome foods, even if that’s not what we’re really getting.
The Addictive Nature of Grains
These factors encourage us to eat a lot of grains, then we get hooked. We begin to feel like we need grain products. That’s because the most common grain-based foods we eat provoke blood sugar highs often followed by blood sugar lows. Those blood sugar lows leave us yearning for a quick fix of energy a few hours later. Because grain products are readily available anywhere we go and most raise blood sugar quickly, we eat grains (often combined with sugar or other sweeteners) to temporarily solve our lagging energy brought about by imbalanced blood sugar.
But that’s not the only way we get hooked. Grains have druglike substances that create true food addictions and cravings in some, if not many, people. Eating grains can promote at least a sense of comfort and sometimes a high or euphoric feeling. (You’ll learn about this in detail in Chapter 6). A typical scenario is this: We eat grains in different forms every few hours without realizing it, first because it’s the handy thing to do, then, as time goes on, to satisfy our cravings and to get our hits
so we can temporarily feel good or avoid feeling bad. At that point, we are grain junkies, true habitual users of grains. We can’t get off them and we pay for this in the long run. This isn’t much different than kids who try smoking when they’re young and impressionable, then start to psychologically and physically need cigarettes and become regular smokers. The only difference is that the habit of smoking isn’t as accepted today as grain-o-mania and grain gluttony are.
The grain industry seems to be well aware of the addictive nature of grains (particularly combined with sweeteners)—or at least it knows which foods are selling like wildfire—and it tries to use this to its advantage. A vivid image that sticks in my mind is a cartoon of kids chowing down on Oreo cookies, saying, Wow, these things are addictive!
Behind them, a father sits reading a newspaper story about Philip Morris, the big cigarette manufacturer, buying the maker of Oreos. Philip Morris, now the largest food manufacturer in the world, is changing its name to Altria and trying hard to look socially responsible these days by making philanthropic contributions. But the company is really involved in making money off people’s addictions. The Philip Morris family of companies includes not only Kraft Foods and Nabisco Foods, makers of a number of cookies, cereals, and snack foods, but also the Post Cereal Company and the Miller beer company. These companies manufacture a wide variety of habit-forming, grain-based foods. Jack Challem, the coauthor of my previous book, Syndrome X, refers to Philip Morris as Addiction, Inc.,
which seems very fitting. Indeed, the name Altria is adapted from the Latin word altus, which means high.
Food manufacturers and retailers know that children who become hooked on grains become adults who stay hooked on grains. So, they increasingly use clever promotions to influence impressionable kids into eating a lot of grain-based foods and equating grain-based foods with fun and entertainment. For example, fast-food restaurants, which are built around burgers with buns and high-fructose corn-syrup sweetened soft drinks, offer limited-time-only toys associated with the latest popular movie. Kids get their parents to bring them in for the toys, the whole family loads up on the food and drinks, and the kids develop a loyalty to fast-food restaurants from an early age. Another common promotion that appeals to children is putting toys in boxes of cereals and grain-based snack foods such as Cracker Jack. (As a child, I hated Cracker Jack, but used to beg my mom to buy it for me so I could get the toy inside!)
The latest programming-kids-early schemes are amusement parks that center around cereal characters and themes—Cereal City, USA, by Kellogg’s in Battle Creek, Michigan, and Cereal Adventure by General Mills in Bloomington, Minnesota. By walking down the Wheaties Hall of Champions and playing in the Lucky Charms Magical Forest, kids will develop an allegiance to cereals and specific brands early in life and, the manufacturers hope, will then become consumers for life.
The Consequences of Grain Gluttony and Grain-O-Mania
So, through a very complicated interplay between social programming, advertising, education, special promotions, and the habit-forming characteristics of grain-based foods, grain gluttony and grain-o-mania have now become everyday occurrences. As a result of all these clever promotions, cereal is now children’s main source of vitamins. Kids junk out on grain- and sugar-based foods nearly all day long, almost to the exclusion of nutritious foods, such as vegetables. Consequently, the incidence of obesity and Type 2 diabetes (also called adult-onset diabetes) in children is at an all-time high.
And the situation is even worse for adults, many of whom have been grain junkies for a lot longer. The overall incidence of diabetes among Americans increased by 33 percent from 1990 to 1998, and among people in their thirties, the incidence jumped by an astounding 70 percent! Furthermore, 61 percent of all Americans are now overweight. If something isn’t done soon to correct this trend, it’s estimated that everyone could be overweight by the year 2020. Diabetes and being overweight are just two of the most obvious problems caused by grain gluttony, but they are by no means the only ones, as you’ll discover throughout this book.
In the next chapter, you’ll learn how the grain gluttony of today is very different than the diet we were designed for. By taking a trip down food history lane, you’ll finally get the straight scoop you haven’t heard before: every time people have changed their diets to include more grains, they have developed worse health problems. If we load up on grains, we set ourselves up for countless diseases that humans didn’t develop when they ate few or no grains.
CHAPTER 2
A Trip Down Food History Lane
Most people think it’s natural to eat grains, but it’s really not. If you were to step into a field of grain and take a few stalks and chew them, you wouldn’t get much satisfaction. Grains in their natural state are tough and pretty much indigestible—dramatically different from the grain foods we know today.
So, how did grains come to be an everyday component of most