A Ride through Syria to Damascus and Baalbec, and ascent of Mount Hermon
By Edward Abram
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A Ride through Syria to Damascus and Baalbec, and ascent of Mount Hermon - Edward Abram
Edward Abram
A Ride through Syria to Damascus and Baalbec, and ascent of Mount Hermon
EAN 8596547053644
DigiCat, 2022
Contact: [email protected]
Table of Contents
CHAPTER I.—Jaffa to Tiberias.
CHAPTER II.—Tiberias to Hâsbeyâ.
CHAPTER III.—Hasbêya to Mount Hermon.
THE DRUSES.
ASCENT OF MOUNT HERMON.
CHAPTER IV.—Damascus.
CHAPTER V.—The Anti-Lebanon.
CHAPTER VI.—Baalbec.
CHAPTER VII.—Beyrût to Boulogne.
CHAPTER VIII.—The Bedaween and Fellaheen.
THE FELLAHEEN.
MAHOMETANS.
A Ride
Through
Syria.
CHAPTER I.—Jaffa to Tiberias.
Table of Contents
Our Ride through Palestine
did not exhaust our enthusiasm for the East; we were not, as some travellers have been, disappointed with The Holy Land,
because we did not expect to find it still, as in ancient days, a land of milk and honey.
The cisterns are broken and the waters run to waste, the walls of the vineyards are cast down, the very soil has disappeared from the once fertile terraced heights, the wine presses are covered with weeds, the defenced cities are all a ruin; but, in spite of all this desolation, the Land of our Lord will always have an overwhelming interest for the thoughtful traveller who wishes to trace out on the spot the history of the oldest and most interesting people of the world.
Having on the former occasion travelled by the beaten track, viâ Jerusalem, we this time try a new and unfrequented route. Our objective points are the plains of Sharon and Esdraelon, sighting that mighty headland, the excellency of Carmel,
with its numerous reminiscences of Elijah, and Baal, that glory of Lebanon,
Hermon with its traditional snow-clad summit and verdure-vested slopes—the sacred sources of the Jordan, and of Pharpar and Abana, which one thought better than all the rivers of Israel
—onward then to Damascus with its straight street
and memories of Abram, Saul of Tarsus, Ananias, and Naaman—then onward again to the reputed tombs of the early patriarchs, and lastly—Baalbec with its massive Hivite and beautiful Roman remains. This is a short sketch of the tour we purpose describing in the following pages.
Joppa—With the House of Simon the Tanner on the Sea shore.
Again we have the good fortune, by the courtesy of the director, to obtain a passage in the French China Mail, from Marseilles to Port Said, so arrive in the Holy Land eight and a half days after leaving the Crusaders’ old haunt in London. Favoured with fine weather, we sail north of Sardinia, and sighting Elba and Monte Christo, in two days pass by Ischia into the beautiful bay of Naples. We find the pretty Chiaja much enlarged, planted, and generally improved, and are pleased to see the graceful palm trees in thriving condition. In the Museo Nazionale, ever so interesting, we come to the same conclusion as Solomon as to nothing being new under the sun, for there, if we mistake not, on well-preserved fresco, we see our old friend the sea-serpent and a lady, very much like Britannia ruling the waves on a half-penny. But the sun is setting on Sorrento, Virgil’s tomb is already in the shade, the ship’s bell is summoning strangers to depart, and passengers to dress for dinner, so we must bid adieu to Naples and proceed again en voyage. Capri stands out grandly and gloomily in the twilight; Vesuvius is quiet, scarcely keeping up appearances: we gaze at it until the giant form dies away in the dim distance, and then—go down to dinner. Early next morning we pass Stromboli, and in the Straits of Messina Ætna, but both are still and silent as the grave,
in fact on the latter summit, if we mistake not, we see the dark black lava spotted with bright white snow. On the far horizon we sight the distant cliffs of Crete, and two days later find ourselves entering Port Said, where we tranship ourselves to the Austrian steamer for Jaffa, are off in an hour and arrive early next morning. We elect to go to Syria by way of Palestine, but by a different route, in order that we may visit certain interesting districts which lay out of our line on our former visit.
We commence our ride from Jaffa by a two days journey across the plains of Sharon and Esdraelon to Nazareth. This route, being very open to the attacks of predatory Bedouins, is never attempted by travellers, the all but trackless paths over the vast plains being but little known even to the native.
We engage a picturesque Bedouin Sheik (as mild a looking man as ever cut a throat
) for a guard and guide; two other Arabs join us for company or safety’s sake. This force a small party of Bedouins would not care to face, and a large party would not attempt it, as they would be discovered by their numbers, and vengeance would soon follow, so we pass the Bedouin camps without any interference.
The ride from Jaffa to Nazareth, viâ Jerusalem, is reckoned