Lonely Planet Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands

Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared for Ecuador

How to Travel to the Galápagos Islands

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Quito

Old Town (Centro Histórico)

Central Quito

La Floresta & Around

North Quito

Around Quito

Northern Highlands

Apuela & Intag Valley

Beyond Apuela & Intag Valley

Otavalo

Beyond Otavalo

Ibarra

Beyond Ibarra

Cayambe

Beyond Cayambe

North Coast & Lowlands

Atacames

Beyond Atacames

Mompiche

Beyond Mompiche

Canoa

Beyond Canoa

The Oriente

Northern Oriente

Coca & Lower Río Napo

Tena

Beyond Tena

Puyo & Southern Oriente

Central Highlands

Parque Nacional Cotopaxi

The Quilotoa Loop

Beyond the Quilotoa Loop

Ambato

Baños

Volcán Chimborazo

Beyond Volcán Chimborazo

South Coast

Guayaquil (Santiago de Guayaquil)

Beyond Guayaquil

Salinas & Playas

Beyond Salinas & Playas

Olón & Montañita

Beyond Olón & Montañita

Ayampe & Puerto López

Beyond Ayampe & Puerto López

Cuenca & the Southern Highlands

Cuenca

Beyond Cuenca

Saraguro

Loja

Beyond Loja

Vilcabamba

Galápagos Islands

Puerto Ayora (Isla Santa Cruz)

Beyond Puerto Ayora

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Isla San Cristóbal)

Beyond Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

Puerto Villamil (Isla Isabela)

Beyond Puerto Villamil

Puerto Velasco Ibarra (Isla Floreana)

Beyond Puerto Velasco Ibarra

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodations

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Accessible Travel

Women Travelers

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of Ecuador in 15 Places

Meet the Ecuadorians

Ecuador’s Indigenous People

Hiking in Ecuador

Shopping in Quito

Tortoise as Allegory & Oracle

Ecuador’s Art Scene

This Book

ECUADOR & THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Los Túneles, Isla Isabela, Galápagos Islands | PAWEL CZUCZWARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

As a nerdy child of the TV age, nature shows like Wild Kingdom were one of my first windows onto our big, wondrous planet. It seduced me with its incomprehensible wildlife such as the squirrel-sized pygmy marmoset, the smallest primate on Earth. So decades later, on my first trip to Ecuador, when a Río Napo guide pointed out a pair of what he called ‘pocket monkeys’ on a tree in the Amazon Basin, I quietly freaked out at this full-circle moment.

Ecuador is singular in so many ways, with its intersection of the equator and Andes making Volcán Chimborazo the closest point on the planet to the sun. Those breathtaking heights run down to the biodiversity hotspots of the Amazon jungle and young volcanic Galápagos Islands, the birthplace of evolutionary theory. The privilege of close encounters with magical wildlife reminds us of our collective imperative to keep that biodiversity alive.

Wendy Yanagihara

@wendyyanagihara

Wendy is a writer and artist living in small-town coastal California.

My favorite experience is sliding off the edge of a panga at Los Túneles and encountering two massive, serene sea turtles directly below me.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands.

TOMAS DRAHOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Exploring the blackwater rivers and lagoons of the Reserva de Produccíon de Fauna Cuyabeno (pictured) is one of South America’s premier nature experiences. While you’re pretty much guaranteed to see monkeys and birds galore, you never know which other curious creatures you’re going to bump into. Some days it’s pink dolphins, while on others you’ll find giant river otters. The show is always sure to be spectacular.

Alex Egerton

@alexetravel

Alex is a journalist based in the mountains of central Colombia writing about travel, culture and history in Latin America and the Caribbean.

KSENIA RAGOZINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mompiche (pictured) is the sort of place you stop over for a night and end up staying for a week. There’s a sense of community that makes you feel instantly welcomed and there’s irresistible appeal in the wild beaches that are flanked by breaching whales on one side and bellowing howler monkeys on the other. While Mompiche is known for world-class surf, there’s so much more to this little town that’s still unexpectedly rich in wildlife. Be warned – you probably won’t want to leave.

Mark Eveleigh

@markeveleigh

Travel journalist Mark first fell in love with Latin America when he spent four months in Ecuador in 1992.

FABRICIO BURBANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

When it comes to the most unique capital cities I’ve visited, Quito (pictured) is right up there. If the lavishness of its World Heritage–listed Old Town, or its dramatic setting among the foothills of the Andes, isn’t enough, dig deeper and you’ll find plenty more. Hummingbirds, pre-Inca sites, gastronomic Ecuadorian cuisine, the genius of Oswaldo Guayasamín, specialty cafes pouring local beans, microbreweries. Without question, Quito is my kind of place!

Trent Holden

@hombreholden

Trent’s been writing for Lonely Planet since 2008, covering destinations as diverse as Brazil, Rwanda, India and Japan.

FOTOGRIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The south coast of Ecuador is a paradise for surf, salt and sun. Sleepy towns dot a practically pristine coastline, and tourism is, thankfully, nothing close to overwhelming. The waves are great (and so is the food), locals are friendly, getting from point A to point B is a breeze, and there are still places where you can safely sleep with your doors wide open. It’s a bit like traveling through time, in a way that makes you hopeful the world isn’t entirely lost after all.

Marisa Megan Paska

@_marisamegan

Marisa is a travel journalist with a passion for cultural preservation, remote travel and Carnaval.

F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

With its cobblestone streets, opulent churches and grandiose art created by indigenous masters, Quito’s historic center stands as a testament to Ecuadorian people’s resilience, creativity and strength. The historic center has served as the backdrop to some of the most relevant moments in the country’s history and perfectly epitomizes the meeting of cultures shaping the identity of its people.

Mayra Peralta

@lesjoursdemay

Mayra is a culture-loving journalist and editor based in Ecuador. She has contributed to several publications around the world.

BOYD HENDRIKSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The most beautiful thing in the Galápagos is waking up early next to Isla Seymour Norte (pictured) on a cruise. While you have your coffee at 5:40am, you might see a magical show of nature: the full moon setting in the west and the sun rising in the east at the same time. Like two fireballs surrounding our planet.

Dario Vicente Chimarro

@dariochimarro

Dario writes about travel and culture, and is a naturalist guide and small travel business owner in the Galápagos Islands.

A WILDLIFE-WATCHING WONDERLAND

Catch multiple once-in-a-lifetime wildlife-watching encounters in a single trip, from pink river dolphins to rare spectacled Andean bears, equatorial penguins and giant Galápagos tortoises. Ecuador may be modest in size, but it bursts with spectacular biodiversity in both remote and populated corners of the country. Rich flora and fauna live on in the islands where Darwin’s theory of evolution sparked into existence, as well as on the mainland.

Blue-footed booby, Galápagos Islands | DAVID M. ROBERTS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Not Just for the Birds

Even if you’re not a certified bird watcher, a pair of binoculars for the Amazon or Mindo adds to the excitement of crazy-cool avian and other wildlife sightings.

AMMIT JACK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Know How to Go

If you plan to travel independently to the Galápagos, organize entry requirements well ahead of time; review our how-to guide.

MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Underwater Video

Many snorkeling guides have underwater cameras and share video with guests afterward, but not always. BYO if video footage is a priority.

BEST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES

Frolic with sea lions, marvel at giant tortoises and find blue-footed boobies in the mythic islands of the 1 Galápagos.

Travel the lower 2 Río Napo into the Amazon jungle to look for golden-mantled tamarins, prehistoric-looking hoatzin and pink river dolphins.

Check a few birds off your list in 3 Mindo, which has more than 600 species, including Cock-of-the-Rock, quetzal and rare leymebamba antpitta.

Hike in 4 Maquipucuna Reserve for a great chance to sight rare spectacled bears, most readily seen from August to November.

Board a whale-watching boat from 5 Puerto López during humpback migration season to see these majestic cetaceans.

HIKING & TREKKING THE ANDES

More than 20% of Ecuador’s land is protected in natural reserves or parks, and 10 of its peaks top out above 5000m. Experienced mountaineers will find plenty of tempting challenges to tackle, while avid hikers are spoiled for choice on day walks and longer treks ranging from sea-level lava fields to cloud forest and páramo (high-altitude grassland). Take some time to move through this breadth of ecosystems on foot to absorb Ecuador’s abundant natural beauty.

Volcán Chimborazo | CAMILO ANDRADE DAVILA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Acclimatize

Allow a day or two to acclimatize to the altitude before setting out on a multiday trek, especially on serious mountaineering expeditions.

IRENEUKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Summitting Not Required

If you’re not on a peak-bagging mission, you can still hike kilometers of spectacular trails on the slopes and bases of Ecuador’s volcanoes.

ECUADORPOSTALES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Check Changing Conditions

Check conditions on arrival – Volcań Cotopaxi began an eruption in 2022 and may or may not be open for climbing.

BEST HIKING & TREKKING EXPERIENCES

Trek the 1 Quilotoa Loop through indigenous villages and artist communities, past Laguna Quilotoa, which local people believe to be bottomless.

Summit the closest terrestrial point to the sun with a climb on 2 Volcán Chimborazo – for experienced mountaineers only.

Take a guided climb up 3 Volcán Cayambe, the highest point in the world through which the equator passes.

Hike through delicate Andean moors at 4 Parque Nacional Cajas, winding around shimmering lakes and through mist-covered dwarf forests.

Circumnavigate the rim of 5 Laguna Cuicocha for gorgeous views of the crater lake and islands.

COLONIAL-ERA DESIGN

The elaborate cathedrals and churches of Ecuador’s cities were established by the Spanish and date back as far as the 16th century. Well-trodden plazas and parks often lead to nearby streets filled with colonial facades and cobblestone alleys, while some house regional or art museums.

Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcíon, Cuenca | JON CHICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sacred Sites

Many of Quito’s churches were built on top of sacred indigenous sites, including Ecuador’s oldest church, Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco.

Quito Vertigo

Brave the climb to the top of the tower at the Basílica del Voto Nacional for a vertiginous 360-degree view of Quito.

BEST ARCHITECTURE EXPERIENCES

Rove the plazas, palaces, cathedrals and monasteries of 1 Quito’s UNESCO-listed Centro Histórico, some of which were centuries in the making.

Soak up the sociable atmosphere of 2 Cuenca’s gorgeous historic center, awash with handsome churches and pretty plazas.

Wander the cobbled streets, colonial churches and plazas of 3 Latacunga, enhanced by the dramatic backdrop of Volcán Cotopaxi.

Admire 4 Riobamba’s magnificent parks and churches, including the neoclassical basilica, Ecuador’s only round church.

Stroll 5 Loja, the far south’s largest city, where the narrow streets of its colorful colonial heart are lined with meticulously renovated old mansions.

COASTAL LEISURE

Beaches may not be Ecuador’s top attraction, but it has its share of gorgeous shoreline. The country’s most beautiful mainland beach has all the soft sand and turquoise waters of dreamy, jungle-fringed beach fantasies, and the Galápagos Islands are pocked with small coves where you’ll sunbathe and swim alongside unfussed local wildlife.

Weekday Lull

Ecuadorian families and friend groups love hitting the beach on their weekend free time, so you’re more likely to find smaller crowds on a weekday.

ESTEBAN VILLACRESES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hydrate Well

Bring plenty of water with you, as you’ll often have to hike under the hot sun to reach your beach of choice.

NORADOA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rainy-Season Rules

Rainy season from December through May is actually the best time to visit the beach – skies are clear between rains, with fewer clouds and less humidity.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Hike through the dry tropical forest of Parque Nacional Machalilla to 1 Los Frailes, the long, white beach considered the most beautiful on mainland Ecuador.

Pack a picnic, hop a water taxi and spend some peaceful hours of beach birding at 2 Playa El Garrapatero on Isla Santa Cruz.

Take a dip in the paradise of a white-sand cove sheltered by a lava headland at uncrowded 3 Puerto Chino on Isla San Cristóbal.

Traverse the rolling, arid landscape dotted with palo santo trees and opuntia cactus to the wild and wide stretch of 4 Playa Tortuga Bay, Isla Santa Cruz.

Pick your way along an oceanside lava-boulder trail to the rewardingly remote, greenery-edged crescent of 5 Playa Baquerizo, Isla San Cristóbal.

PRE-COLUMBIAN HISTORY

Though some extant Inca ruins remain, most of what modern visitors can experience of pre-Columbian history exists in artifacts and archaeological interpretation. It’s still possible to walk in ancient places and listen for whispers of the Cañari, Puruhá, Quitus and Omagua people who came before.

Temple of the Sun, Ingapirca | FOTOS593/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Coastal Habitation

Although the majority of indigenous people today live in the highlands and the Oriente, Ecuador’s coastline supported the densest populations in pre-Inca times.

IRENEUKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Poetic Injustice

Manco Capac, the last Inca ruler, staged one of the greatest revolts against the Spanish. He was killed by a Spaniard whose life he had saved.

ARCHIVO EL COMERCIO, 1999, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS ©

Vast Inca Empire

At the height of its empire, the Inca ruled more than 12 million people across some 1 million sq km.

BEST PRE-COLUMBIAN HISTORY EXPERIENCES

Unravel the mystery of 1 Ingapirca, Ecuador’s most important pre-Columbian ruins, built by the Cañari and later expanded by the Inca.

Wander through the history of Ecuador’s indigenous cultures at the 2 Museo del Banco Central Pumapungo, which backs onto Inca ruins.

Encounter remnants of the Río Napo’s Omagua civilization at the 3 Museo Arqueológico Centro Cultural Orellana.

Explore the thematically organized collection of pre-Columbian artifacts at the privately owned 4 Casa del Alabado in Quito.

Learn the story of the Valdivia culture, the first settlers in Ecuador and first ceramicists in South America – in 5 Valdivia, naturally.

STUNNING LANDSCAPES

Smoldering, glacier-topped volcanoes loom out of the landscape across Ecuador. From breathtaking heights, their slopes transition into the windswept páramo, while further below, tropical cloud forest sips from fog and sustains a delicate system of biodiversity.

Volcán Cotopaxi | ECUADORPOSTALES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Volcanic Eruptions

Of the eight volcanoes in Ecuador that have erupted in the last 20 years, three – Cotopaxi, Reventador and Sangay – erupted in 2023 alone.

Amazon Riverscapes

The reflection of jungle and sky above Amazonian rivers and lagoons is like a living entity itself, ever changing with the light – a different side of landscape drama.

BEST DRAMATIC LANDSCAPE EXPERIENCES

Take in iconic views of 1 Volcán Cotopaxi – which may or may not be actively erupting – for snowcapped Andean drama.

Marvel at the deep, reflective colors and stunning mountain setting of 2 Laguna Quilotoa, the crater lake considered Ecuador’s most beautiful.

Watch the mist swirl through the entrancingly lush Andean cloud forests of the 3 Intag Valley, a biodiversity hotspot for endemic orchids and frogs.

Trek on foot or horseback in the craggy, forested mountains around 4 Vilcabamba, with one of the most beautiful settings in the Ecuadorean Andes.

Climb the steep, gravel-covered slopes of Ecuador’s most active volcano, 5 Volcán Reventador, for front-row views of its awe-inspiring explosions.

HANDICRAFTS & MARKET DAYS

Handicraft traditions are alive and well in Ecuador, jamming the stalls of the Saturday Otavalo market, but also being created in workshops throughout the country. Find hat makers creating classic Montecristi (aka Panama) hats in Cuenca shops, Kichwa weavers hand-looming fine textiles in highland Gualaceo, and Shuar people beading seed jewelry in the Oriente.

Catching Market Days

If you’re walking the Quilotoa Loop, try to time your circuit to hit the weekly craft markets at the villages along the way.

EDUARD GORICEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Montecristi Hats

You can still find a handmade sombrero de paja toquilla (don’t call it a Panama!) in the place of its origin – coastal Montecristi.

ION MES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pretty Poison

The attractive little red-and-black huayruro seed, used extensively in indigenous jewelry in the Oriente, is toxic when ingested. Keep away from children and pets.

BEST HANDICRAFT EXPERIENCES

Assail your senses with the vivid color and cacophony of the Saturday market in 1 Otavalo, where indigenous craftspeople and tourists converge.

Peruse the hundreds of stalls in Quito’s 2 Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal for some handmade artisanal souvenirs amid the mass-produced stuff.

Wander Cuenca’s many bustling 3 marketplaces to pick up some unique handmade souvenirs, such as cuy (guinea pig) roasters or more practical ceramics and basketry.

Watch 4 Cuenca’s master hat makers turn native fibers into fine sombreros de paja toquilla, Ecuador’s famed headwear known elsewhere as a Panama hat.

Poke around tiny 5 Gualaceo, Chordeleg and Sigsig, each with their own specialty handicrafts made using age-old techniques dating back to pre-Hispanic times.

ADRENALINE ADVENTURES

Outdoor adventure abounds in the ocean swells, river rapids, mountainsides and jungles across Ecuador. In a week you could conceivably surf a few breaks along the coast, raft one of the rivers out of Tena, mountain bike down the slope of Volcán Chimborazo or Cotopaxi and go canyoning in the jungles of the deep southeast. But if you can’t do it all, it’s easy to fit in an epic adventure or two along your journey.

Zip lining, Baños | | AMMIT JACK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Outdoor Mindo

Mindo is beginning to rival Baños for outdoor adventures such as tubing, quad riding and mountain biking and a cable car whirring over the jungle canopy.

VICTOR CAICEDO TOBAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Horseback Camping

For a lower-speed, high-payoff wilderness adventure, go horseback trekking and camping in the rugged mountains outside Vilcabamba.

BARNA TANKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Adrenaline Hangover

Nurse your adrenaline comedown and sore muscles with a soak in the thermal spring waters of Papallacta.

BEST ADRENALINE EXPERIENCES

Cruise the south coast’s Ruta del Surf in search of the perfect wave, starting in 1 Montañita.

Raft the rivers around 2 Tena, which has everything from exhilarating runs through wild rolling rapids to gentle floats through scenic countryside.

Get your gravity on with canopy zip lining, bungee jumping and rafting around 3 Baños, the capital of Ecuador’s outdoor-adventure scene.

Speed down the side of an active volcano on a mountain bike for an exhilarating experience of 4 Volcán Cotopaxi.

Take yourself seriously off-grid to seldom-visited waterfalls, deep caves and narrow canyons carved by emerald rivers in 5 Gualaquiza.

INDIGENOUS CULTURAL IMMERSION

Indigenous culture is a vibrant entity in Ecuador. Though the Kichwa make up the great majority of the country’s indigenous population, the beautiful diversity of tiny groups between coast, Andes and Amazon illustrates the importance of supporting their survival. Seeking out community-based tourism projects allows you to engage with indigenous people on their terms, while giving insight into their long-practiced traditions and deep connections with their lands.

Río Napo | HENRI LEDUC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Peoples of Ecuador

Fourteen distinct indigenous peoples reside in Ecuador: the Achuar, Andoa, Awa, Chachi, Cofán, Epera, Kichwa, Secoya, Shiwiar, Shuar, Siona, Tsáchila, Waorani and Zápara.

IRENEUKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tour Local

Community-based tourism is baked into Amazon river-lodge stays, but indigenous-led experiences can also be arranged in coastal and highland communities.

SL-PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Photo Permissions

Shoot photos respectfully, always asking permission before taking pictures of anyone. If they decline, graciously refrain.

BEST INDIGENOUS CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

Learn some of the Otavalo Kichwas’ traditional ways from the woman’s perspective at a village homestay in 1 La Calera.

Visit the town of 2 Salasaca, where the predominantly Kichwa inhabitants still wear traditional dress and carry on wool-spinning and hand-weaving.

Go off-grid to overnight in 3 Kichwa villages around Saraguro, where self-sufficient mountain communities maintain a centuries-old Andean way of life.

Travel down the 4 Río Napo to a riverside indigenous village deep in the rainforest to discover its timeless traditions.

Brave a spiritual cleansing from a curandero (healer) at 5 Parroquia Puerto Limón.

ECUADOR’S LIFE AQUATIC

The Galápagos Islands are on many divers’ and snorkelers’ bucket lists for a reason, with their curious sea lions and serene sea turtles. The equatorial marine ecosystem 1000km off the coast teems with vibrant life, seasonally infused with even richer biodiversity from cold upwellings of the Humboldt and Cromwell currents. If your travels aren’t taking you to the islands, there’s great snorkeling at the ‘Little Galápagos’ off the mainland south coast.

Manta rays, Galápago Islands | VALERIJS NOVICKIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seasonal Conditions

Galápagos waters are warmer and calmer from January to June, though the cold, nutrient-rich Humboldt Current attracts greater numbers of wildlife from July to December.

PHOTOS BRIANSCANTLEBURY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wetsuit Weather

In the Galápagos’ hotter season, water temps average 24°C (swimsuits suffice). Opt in when snorkeling tours offer wetsuits in cool season.

TONI AULES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Liveaboard or Land-Based

Divers are best booking dedicated liveaboard dive trips; snorkelers will see pockets of wildlife on land-based day trips.

BEST DIVING & SNORKELING EXPERIENCES

Cross your fingers that you’ll cross paths with Galápagos penguins among the whitetip sharks and sea turtles at 1 Pinnacle Rock.

Wall-dive at 2 Kicker Rock to look for hammerhead sharks; sea turtles, whitetip and blacktip sharks also make appearances.

Explore the submerged lava caves of 3 Los Túneles to chill with sea turtles, sleeping reef sharks and expertly camouflaged seahorses.

Let the current carry you around 4 Devil’s Crown amid colorful reef fish and sharks in deeper waters.

Dive with giant manta rays at 5 Isla de la Plata – the best season is July to early October, coinciding with the humpback migration.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Ecuadorian Andes

Allow: 10 days Distance: 950km

With Quito nestled into Andean peaks, your intro to Ecuador begins at altitude. Take in ebullient local color at the Otavalo market before heading southward to Cuenca, swooning over 17th-century churches and colonial facades, with a side trip to marvel at Inca architecture at Ingapirca.

1 Quito 1 DAY

Spend a day exploring the architectural gems of Quito’s Old Town, such as the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco, and viewing exquisite pre-Columbian artifacts at Casa del Alabado. In the evening, enjoy Ecuadorian cuisine with a view at Vista Hermosa followed by salsa, clubbing or cocktails in Mariscal Sucre or La Floresta.

21/2 hours by bus

JON CHICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Otavalo 1 DAY

Ecuador’s most famous Saturday market (pictured) may be even better on other days, when Otavalo’s streets still have vendors selling handcrafted wool textiles, tagua-nut jewelry and leatherwork. On weekends, indigenous craftspeople from across the region converge for country’s most vibrant market.

31/2 hours by bus

3 Quilotoa Loop 3 DAYS

Hike the iconic Quilotoa Loop from Latacunga, slow traveling the old-fashioned way. You’ll wander through highland villages, indigenous art galleries and weekly markets, if you time your trek right. The undulating route meanders through cloud forests and valleys, with views of Quilotoa’s spectacular crater lake to top it all off.

3 hours by bus

Quilotoa Loop | SL-PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Riobamba 2 DAYS

Continue southward through the highlands to Riobamba, rich with indigenous culture and attractive colonial architecture. The appealing Andean city is worth a couple of days, and is an excellent base for high-altitude adventures to Volcán Chimborazo, whether to hike up the slopes of Ecuador’s highest peak or bomb down them on a mountain bike.

5 hours by bus

5 Cuenca 2 DAYS

Unabashedly pretty Cuenca (pictured) invites a wander for its colonial architecture, attractive plazas and cathedrals and riverside atmosphere. Visit the Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes and shop the low-pressure, outdoor Mercado de Artesanías Rotary, fueling your walks with the city’s diverse cuisine, craft beer and ice cream.

21/2 hours by bus

IRENEUKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Ingapirca 1 DAY

The archaeological site of Ingapirca, Ecuador’s best-preserved Inca ruins, lies two hours northeast of Cuenca. Now reduced to remnants of stone walls and the Temple of the Sun, the site was originally established by the Cañari people, while the grassy spaces between are now roamed by grazing llamas. Return to Cuenca to fly back to Quito.

ITINERARIES

Amazon Adventure

Allow: 9 days Distance: 490km

Fly into tropical, lowland Coca to board a canoe into the Amazon Basin. Explore Parque Nacional Yasuní jungle, introduced by its indigenous people and filled with otherworldly wildlife. Then road trip back to Quito, climbing into the highlands to raft whitewater and soak in mountain hot springs.

1 Coca ½ DAY

Fly from Quito to Coca, gateway to the Amazon Basin. Coca is a real-deal Amazonian hub, where the road ends and secretive, guarded, terrestrial access to rainforest oil fields begins. Before heading down the Río Napo to your river lodge, make a point to stroll the small-town malecón (waterfront, pictured) and visit the excellent Museo Arqueológico Centro Cultural Orellana on the waterfront.

21/2 hours by boat

ALEJO MIRANDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Parque Nacional Yasuní 4 DAYS

From your river lodge, you’ll head out to this biodiversity hotspot deep in the jungle in search of wild parrots at clay licks (pictured), monkeys in the canopy and perhaps an elusive tapir. From the canoe, you might spot half-submerged caimans, the splash of an arapaima, or even a giant river otter. Take the opportunity to spend time with indigenous people in the Kichwa villages.

1 hour by boat

VLADISLAV T. JIROUSEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 Laguna Pañacocha ½ DAY

As a side trip down the Río Napo, or if your lodge happens to be based there, the still waters of Laguna Pañacocha (pictured) might reveal some of its fascinating inhabitants: primitive hoatzin, piranhas and hopefully some glimpses of pink river dolphins. The lagoon, sheltered in lush jungle greenery, feels like an especially pristine pocket of the Amazon.

5 hours by bus

FOTOS593/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Tena 2 DAYS

Catch a bus from Coca to Tena (pictured) and stay at a hostal (small hotel) in this friendly and pleasant town, at its best in the evenings along its riverfront center. Tena makes a great base for rafting trips, as it’s positioned near several rivers and has well-established rafting outfitters ready to take you on gentle jungle floats and whitewater adventures.

3 hours by bus

ALEJO MIRANDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 Baeza 1 DAY

Bus north from Tena to Baeza, the crossroads of mountain passes and a quaint little base for more rafting in a less urban setting. For nature lovers, this is a step up from Tena in both atmosphere – think sparse montane village – and altitude. Hike and birdwatch, enjoy the cool mountain air in Baeza Antigua and kayak exciting Class III+ whitewater on the Río Quijos.

1 hour by bus

ANGELA N PERRYMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 Papallacta 1 DAY

End your trip with a hot-spring soak before heading back to Quito. The thermal springs of Papallacta (pictured) steam away within the mountains about an hour’s drive from Quito’s airport, making it a reasonably convenient spot to relax ahead of a long flight. Day passes are available at Termas de Papallacta, the largest, most developed resort – you can also lodge here overnight, or at other nearby hostals.

EKATERINA MCCLAUD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Beaches & Islands

La Chocolatera | IRENEUKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Allow: 8 days Distance: 1500km

Hike, surf and chill at Ecuador’s inviting beaches, with a dose of jungle and beach parties, before flying west to the Galápagos Islands. Spend four days minimum in the archipelago, but extend that visit as long as you can for maximum wildlife encounters in this once-in-a-lifetime locale.

1 Salinas & Playas 1 DAY

Depart Guayaquil, venturing to the southern end of Santa Elena Peninsula to relax on stretches of empty beach at Playa el Pelado. For a more Miami Beach kind of experience, head west to admire the crashing ocean at mainland South America’s westernmost point, La Chocolatera, before living it