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    Land Rover Series I-III: Your expert guide to common problems & how to fix them
    Land Rover Series I-III: Your expert guide to common problems & how to fix them
    Land Rover Series I-III: Your expert guide to common problems & how to fix them
    Ebook218 pages1 hour

    Land Rover Series I-III: Your expert guide to common problems & how to fix them

    By Maurice Thurman

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    About this ebook

    This book is the mechanic in your glovebox, essential for troubleshooting, identifying issues and suggesting roadside fixes for 101 common problems associated with Series Land Rovers - both on and off-road.
    The user-friendly layout incorporates extensive cross-referencing, helping you rapidly diagnose a problem. Remedies for everything from sudden engine failure through to unusual sounds and smells are provided in topic-specific chapters, and all standard petrol and diesel engines are covered, with the exception of the V8. Some Land Rover models have their own specific weaknesses and these are also addressed, with thorough advice provided for permanent and more expensive repairs, and tips on preventative maintenance.
    Featuring innovative temporary fixes learnt from years of on and off-road driving, plus over 100 diagrams and photograph, this book can help get you and your Land Rover back on the tarmac - or save you a long walk through the bush.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherVeloce
    Release dateDec 10, 2015
    ISBN9781845849115
    Land Rover Series I-III: Your expert guide to common problems & how to fix them

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      Book preview

      Land Rover Series I-III - Maurice Thurman

      1 Engine running problems

      A total of nine engines span the Series I, II and III model ranges: 1595cc petrol, inlet over exhaust (IOE) valve, 1948-51; 1997cc petrol, IOE valve, 1952-58; 2052cc diesel, overhead valve (OHV), 1957-61; 2286cc petrol, OHV, 3-bearing crankshaft, 1958-80; 2286cc petrol, OHV, 5-bearing crankshaft, 1980-85; 2286cc diesel, OHV, 3-bearing crankshaft, 1961-80; 2286cc diesel, OHV, 5-bearing crankshaft, 1980-84; 2625cc petrol, IOE valve, 1963-80; 2625cc petrol, IOE valve, Weslake cylinder head (fitted for N American market) 1966-67.

      A. Engine will not start from cold

      i. Engine cranks normally and fires, but will not run

      Has the slow running screw on the diesel distributor pump, or on the carburettor vibrated out of position? Turn the screw by increments and crank again. If the engine does not run, then back-off the screw to the original setting.

      • To diagnose a faulty fuel pump see Chapter 4A.

      • To diagnose a fuel filter problem see Chapter 4C-i (diesel) or 4D-iv (petrol).

      • The air vent in the fuel tank could be blocked. Remove fuel filler cap and try again.

      Diesel engines

      • It could be a heater plug(s) problem (see Chapter 10-viii).

      • Is fuel leaking from unions or joints anywhere in the fuel system? This allows air to enter the system. Easier to detect by smell rather than sight in hot climates (see Chapter 4C-i).

      • To diagnose an injector problem see Chapter 4C-i.

      • Has blue/grey smoke from the exhaust and lack of power also been a problem? It could be lack of compression due to tappet clearances being out of adjustment (Chapter 2-iii), worn cylinder bores, or a broken piston ring or valve spring (Chapter 1D-i).

      • Water in the fuel? Open the drain plug at the bottom of the fuel filter, then collect and examine the contents for a layer of water. Most fuel tanks also have a drain plug at the bottom; water is denser than diesel.

      1. Metal connectors are deeply embedded in the plug leads. Check them for corrosion and for a positive ‘click’ when refitting.

      Petrol engines

      • Are ignition leads, sparkplugs and the distributor cap all securely fitted and not damp?

      • Points gap problem? Use the starter handle to turn the engine until the points are fully open, then set the gap for Lucas to 0.015in (0.38mm) or Ducellier to 0.017in (0.43mm). If the surfaces of the contact points are corroded or pitted, they can be cleaned with abrasive paper temporarily. Fit new points as soon as possible.

      • For carburettor causes see Chapter 4D-i.

      • Sparkplugs clean and gaps correct? Clean if necessary and set the gap to 0.025in (0.65mm) for Series I and II, and 0.030in (0.75mm) – close to bank card thickness – for Series IIA and III.

      • Cracked distributor cap? Could try a thin line of epoxy resin filler from your spares kit (Chapter 14) in emergency.

      ii. Engine cranks normally, but does not fire (at all)

      For petrol engines it’s most likely an electrical fault. For diesels it’s most likely a fuel problem, unless the weather is very cold, when heater plugs struggle. Don’t rule out multiple causes. Carry out the earlier checks listed in Chapter 1A, then consider the following:

      • Cylinder head valve problem? For diagnosis and remedy see Chapter 2-iii.

      • Low engine compression due to damaged cylinder head gasket or worn cylinders? A garage may have a compression tester to check this for a diesel engine but petrol engine compression testers are inexpensive.

      2. Cracks often begin at distributor cap terminals (arrowed), creating a path for current to escape through. No cracks here, but white (insulating) deposits on the terminals should be removed.

      3. Testing sparkplug (HT) lead (wire). Hold the lead’s metal connector a small distance from an earth while cranking the engine. (Caution! Keep loose clothing and hands away from rotating parts.)

      Diesel

      • Check stop control cable for kinks and fraying, causing it to jam.

      Petrol

      • Can fuel be pumped into a container while cranking the engine (Caution! Remove distributor rotor first), after disconnecting the feed pipe at the carburettor? If not see Chapter 4A & 4D-i.

      • Is there a spark at the sparkplugs? See photos 3 & 4 to check HT leads and sparkplugs. If no spark see Chapter 5-iii. If only a weak spark, then suspect the condenser and replace it with the one in your spares kit (see Chapter 14).

      4. Testing sparkplug. Same procedure as picture 3, except plug body must be earthed via contact with a metal part of the engine. Gloves from spares kit (Chapter 14) will provide more electrical insulation.

      iii. Engine will not crank, or only slowly

      • Do headlights dim when the starter is activated? Could be due to a discharged battery. Has any electrical item been left switched on? For alternator/dynamo problems see Chapter 10-v. If the battery is unsealed, do you have a battery hydrometer to check the acid density? Batteries generally reach retirement age after three to four years, and can be extra sluggish on cold winter mornings.

      • Check for a dirty, loose, or corroded earth (ground) terminal connection from battery to chassis, and also the earthing lead from the chassis to engine (white corrosive deposit visible?). With enough human muscles pushing the vehicle, engaging the clutch with first gear selected should start the engine. Otherwise, a tow vehicle can do the same job. You can also try using the starter handle (Chapter 1A-iv) if you have one. The engine needs to be reasonably well tuned for an easy start.

      • Do you have jumper leads and a second vehicle with a similarly rated battery? If so, for a negative earth Land Rover:

      1. First connect the red lead from the donor positive terminal to the positive terminal of the flat battery.

      2. Then the black lead from the donor negative terminal to any secure bolt or firm metal attachment on the engine.

      For a positive earth Land Rover:

      1. First connect the black lead from the donor negative terminal to the negative flat battery terminal.

      2. Then the red lead from the donor positive terminal to any secure bolt or firm metal attachment on the engine.

      Start the donor vehicle engine before starting the one with the flat battery. If successful, remove the leads in the reverse order.

      Still only cranks slowly with the leads connected? Then suspect the starter motor/circuit (Chapter 10-ii).

      5. High current is needed to crank the engine, so the shinier all contact areas of terminal connections are, the better. Replace frayed wire.

      iv. Difficult to start engine with starter handle

      Caution: Using a starting handle incorrectly can seriously damage your health! Ignition timing that is too far advanced is likely to cause a strong ‘kick-back’ from the handle as the first cylinder fires. Do not grip the handle as you normally would (ie do not hold the handle between the thumb and first finger of either hand [see photo 6]), doing so can break or dislocate a thumb if there is a strong ‘kick-back.’

      Keep a firm grip on the handle. If using both hands, keep the inside of your knees out of the way. Turn over the engine a few times with the handle, first with the ignition off to give a feel for where the compression points (potential ‘kick-backs’) are in the cycle. Next, prime the fuel pump manually and press the accelerator pedal a couple of times to prime the inlet manifold, before switching on the ignition and then cranking the engine.

      If it doesn't start after a few turns, you'll need to look for electrical or fuel problems.

      6. Caution! Do not place your thumb across the handle when using a starting handle, otherwise you risk a damaged thumb from kick-back. Same applies if using both hands.

      B. Engine ran, but stopped & will not restart

      i. Engine splutters, runs badly before stopping

      Probably a fuel problem, but could be a damaged cylinder head gasket; look for a grey colour in the oil on the dipstick.

      • To diagnose a fuel filter problem see Chapter 4C-i (diesel) or 4D-iv (petrol).

      Diesel

      • Is fuel leaking from unions or joints anywhere in the fuel system? This causes air to enter the system (see Chapter 4C-i).

      Petrol

      • Can strong spurts of fuel be pumped into a container, while cranking (Caution! Remove rotor arm first), after disconnecting the feed pipe at the carburettor? If not see Chapter 4A & 4D-i.

      • Is the air filter blocked? For the oil bath filter, disconnect the air hose. If you have a non-standard filter, remove it and try again to start the engine. In an emergency, in dry conditions, you can use the duct tape from your spares kit (Chapter 14) to tape any cloth you can breath through over the air intake; it will act as a temporary air filter.

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