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    Insight Guides South Korea: Travel Guide eBook
    Insight Guides South Korea: Travel Guide eBook
    Insight Guides South Korea: Travel Guide eBook
    Ebook663 pages6 hours

    Insight Guides South Korea: Travel Guide eBook

    By Insight Guides

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    About this ebook

    This South Korea guidebook is ideal for travellers seeking inspirational guides and planning a more extended trip. It provides interesting facts about South Korea’s people, history and culture and detailed coverage of the best places to see. This South Korea travel book has the style of an illustrated magazine to inspire you and give a taste of South Korea. 

    This South Korea guidebook covers: Seoul, Gyeonggi, and Gangwon, Gyeonggi Province, Gangwon Province, Chungcheong Provinces, Gyeongsangbuk Province, Gyeongsangnam Province, Jeolla and Jeju-do.

    In this South Korea travel guidebook, you will find:

    • Unique essays – country history and culture, and modern-day life, people and politics
    • South Korea highlights – Changdeokgung Palace (Seoul), Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Gyeongju, Seoraksan National Park (Gangwon), Insadong Shopping Street (Seoul), N Seoul Tower, Manjang Cavern (Jeju), Haein-sa Temple (Gyeongsangnam), Dadohaehaesang Maritime National Park (Jeollanam), Hahoe Folk Village (Gyeongsangbuk)  
    • Practical travel information – getting there and around, budgeting, eating out, shopping, public holidays, information for LGBTQ+ travellers and more 
    • When to go to South Korea - high season, low season, climate information and festivals 
    • Insider recommendations – tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots
    • Main attractions & curated places – narrative descriptions of where to go and what to see, covered geographically
    • Tips and facts – interesting facts about South Korea and useful insider tips
    • High-quality maps of South Korea – must-see places cross-referenced to colourful maps for quick orientation
    • Colour-coded chapters – each place chapter has its own colour assigned to aid easy navigation of this South Korea travel guide
    • Striking pictures – rich, inspirational colour photography on all pages, capturing attractions, nature, people and historical features 
    • Fully updated post-COVID-19

    This South Korea guidebook is just the tool you need to get under the skin of the destination and accompany you on your trip. This book will inspire you and answer all your questions while preparing a trip to South Korea or along the way.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateOct 1, 2024
    ISBN9781839054235
    Insight Guides South Korea: Travel Guide eBook
    Author

    Insight Guides

    Insight Guides wherever possible uses local experts who provide insider know-how and share their love and knowledge of the destination.

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      Book preview

      Insight Guides South Korea - Insight Guides

      How To Use This E-Book

      Getting around the e-book

      This Insight Guide e-book is designed to give you inspiration for your visit to South Korea, as well as comprehensive planning advice to make sure you have the best travel experience. The guide begins with our selection of Top Attractions, as well as our Editor’s Choice categories of activities and experiences. Detailed features on history, people and culture paint a vivid portrait of contemporary life in South Korea. The extensive Places chapters give a complete guide to all the sights and areas worth visiting. The Travel Tips provide full information on getting around, activities from culture to shopping to sport, plus a wealth of practical information to help you plan your trip.

      In the Table of Contents and throughout this e-book you will see hyperlinked references. Just tap a hyperlink once to skip to the section you would like to read. Practical information and listings are also hyperlinked, so as long as you have an external connection to the internet, you can tap a link to go directly to the website for more information.

      Maps

      All key attractions and sights in South Korea are numbered and cross-referenced to high-quality maps. Wherever you see the reference [map] just tap this to go straight to the related map. You can also double-tap any map for a zoom view.

      Images

      You’ll find hundreds of beautiful high-resolution images that capture the essence of South Korea. Simply double-tap on an image to see it full-screen.

      About Insight Guides

      Insight Guides have more than 40 years’ experience of publishing high-quality, visual travel guides. We produce 400 full-colour titles, in both print and digital form, covering more than 200 destinations across the globe, in a variety of formats to meet your different needs.

      Insight Guides are written by local authors, whose expertise is evident in the extensive historical and cultural background features. Each destination is carefully researched by regional experts to ensure our guides provide the very latest information. All the reviews in Insight Guides are independent; we strive to maintain an impartial view. Our inclusions are carefully selected to guide you to the best places in the destination, so you can be confident that when we say a place is special, we really mean it.

      © 2024 Apa Digital AG and Apa Publications (UK) Ltd

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      Table of Contents

      South Korea’s Top 10 Attractions

      Editor’s Choice

      Sustainable travel

      The shrimp between whales

      Geography

      Decisive dates

      Early kingdoms and dynasties

      A century of conflict

      Recovery and prosperity

      The Koreans

      Business culture

      Religion

      Insight: Vibrant festivals

      Sport and leisure

      Performing arts

      Arts and crafts

      Insight: Traditional Korean costume

      Food and drink

      Traditional Korean architecture

      Places

      Seoul, Gyeonggi and Gangwon

      Seoul

      Insight: Street food

      Gyeonggi province

      Gangwon province

      Insight: Hiking and national parks

      Chungcheong and Gyeongsang provinces

      Chungcheong provinces

      Insight: Mountain temples

      Gyeongsangbuk province

      Insight: Gyeongju treasures

      Gyeongsangnam province

      Jeolla and Jeju-do

      Jeolla provinces

      Insight: The way of tea, Korean-style

      Jeju-do

      Transport

      A-Z: A Handy Summary of Practical Information

      Language

      Further Reading

      South Korea’s Top 10 Attractions

      Top Attraction 1

      Changdeokgung Palace (Seoul). Splendid Korean palace buildings and serene, Zen-inspired grounds highlight the grandeur of Korean royalty. Be sure to see the Secret Garden (Biwon), the gem within a gem. For more information, click here.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 2

      Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The world’s most heavily fortified border almost seems part of an absurdist play, but there’s no denying the barbed wire or the grim skirmishes that have occurred here. The Third Tunnel of Aggression is a must-see. For more information, click here.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 3

      Gyeongju. The giant tumuli mounds are just one of the captivating sights in and around Korea’s magnificent Silla-era capital, the museum without walls. For more information, click here.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 4

      Seoraksan National Park (Gangwon). South Korea’s most popular national park, Seoraksan’s natural beauty consists of towering rock pinnacles, dense alpine forests, wildflowers at every turn, and wonderfully remote temples. For more information, click here.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 5

      Insadong Shopping Street (Seoul). A maze of streets and alleys harbors a copious quantity of galleries, antique stores, souvenir stands, and teahouses. Hawkers, street performers, and throngs of tourists all add to the fun. For more information, click here.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 6

      N Seoul Tower. Whether you walk up Namsan, take a bus, or ride the cable car, this tower offers an eagle’s eye view of the vast metropolis that is Seoul. Best at night, but spectacular anytime. For more information, click here.

      Alamy

      Top Attraction 7

      Manjang Cavern (Jeju). One of the world’s largest lava tubes and part of an even larger cave system, Manjanggul offers unique glimpses of geologic wonders. Highlights include the tube itself and various features, such as a massive lava column. For more information, click here.

      Shutterstock

      Top Attraction 8

      Haein-sa Temple (Gyeongsangnam). Perhaps South Korea’s most venerated temple, this UNESCO World Heritage Site houses one of the world’s oldest copies of Buddhist scripture, carved into wooden plates that have been preserved for centuries. For more information, click here.

      Getty Images

      Top Attraction 9

      Dadohae Haesang Maritime National Park (Jeollanam). Looking like scattered emerald jigsaw pieces, the ten thousand islands off the southwest coast offer a wealth of unmatched maritime vistas. For more information, click here.

      Korea National Tourism Corporation

      Top Attraction 10

      Hahoe Folk Village (Gyeongsangbuk). The best place to come to gain an understanding of traditional Korean life. For more information, click here.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Editor’s Choice

      Image.jpg

      Jagalchi Fish Market.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      BEST FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

      Lunar New Year. Koreans ring in the New Year with an exuberant combina­tion of fireworks, drums, festive costumes, and music. For more information, click here.

      Dano Festival. The Dano Festival is Korea’s May Day and offers masked dancers and staged performances. For more information, click here.

      Boryeong Mud Festival. A relatively new tradition that celebrates the art of getting dirty. Wear a swimsuit or old clothes and take part in this lively mudfest. For more information, click here.

      Cherry blossom viewing. After the cold winter months, Koreans enjoy the coming of spring just as much as anyone. Picnic, drink, and socialize beneath the pink snow of the petals. For more information, click here.

      Image.jpg

      A display at the National Palace Museum of Korea.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      BEST MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES

      Gyeongju National Museum. Countless treasures from the country’s most spectacular ancient site. For more information, click here.

      National Museum of Korea (Seoul). An outstanding collection of ancient Korean treasures, archeological finds, modern art, and much more in permanent and rotating exhibitions. For more information, click here.

      Leeum Museum of Art (Seoul). Divided into two sections of traditional and modern art, with a stunning permanent collection and exhibits from around the globe. For more information, click here.

      Hahoe Mask Museum (Gyeongsangbuk). Come to the country’s premier folk museum to delve into the fascinating world of Korean mask-making and see a variety of masks from around the world. For more information, click here.

      Gansong Museum (Seoul). Local hero Jeon Hyeongpil used his own fortune to keep these Korean treasures from being taken abroad. Only open twice a year, in spring and fall. For more information, click here.

      Image.jpg

      Relic in the National Museum of Korea.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      BEST TEMPLES AND SHRINES

      Bulguk-sa (Gyeongju). Buddhist architectural masterpiece with stunning stone pagodas, bridges, and the Seokguram Grotto nearby. For more information, click here.

      Jikji-sa (Gyeongsangbuk). Expansive temple set in lush, forested grounds. One of South Korea’s oldest temples, it was rebuilt after the Japanese invasion in the 1500s. For more information, click here.

      Dosan Seowan (Gyeongsangbuk). A beautiful Confucian academy situated in a peaceful rural area in the east of the country, near Andong. For more information, click here.

      Yakcheon-sa (Jeju). One of South Korea’s largest and busiest temples. Highlights include monks who will read your face for inner illnesses and recommend appropriate prayers for healing. For more information, click here.

      Beomeo-sa (Busan). This Temple of the Nirvana Fish contains a holy well which never dries in drought, and is Busan’s largest and most popular temple. For more information, click here.

      Image.jpg

      Bronze bell at Jikji-sa.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

      Myeongdong (Seoul). This multi-block shopping hub has stores, restaurants, and bars that never shut their doors. Trends that rock the world start on these streets. For more information, click here.

      Yongsan (Seoul). Tech-geeks will find everything from cameras to computers to memory cards. It’s all here. Bargains aplenty, but buyer beware. For more information, click here.

      Gyeongdong Medicine Market (Seoul). Giant jars of ginseng and powdered roots for all that ails make this a fascinating meander. For more information, click here.

      Jagalchi Fish Market (Busan). Just about everything that swims, creeps, crawls, or slithers is waiting for you, often glistening in rows or, in many cases, still very much alive. For more information, click here.

      Image.jpg

      A Korean herbal medicine market.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      BEST HIKES AND TRAILS

      Bukhansan (Gyeonggi). One of Seoul’s best day trips, and while often crowded, it’s still a beautiful escape from the big city. For more information, click here.

      Hallasan (Jeju). All four seasons are stunning at Hallasan, South Korea’s highest mountain, be it snow in winter, changing leaves in fall, mountain wildflowers in spring, or lush greenery in summer. For more information, click here.

      Ilchulbong Sunrise Peak (Jeju). Sunrise in Korea doesn’t get any better than when viewed from Ilchulbong Peak. This extinct volcano is a top spot with honeymooners. For more information, click here.

      Chiaksan (Gangwon). Quiet and mystical (and often missed by tourists), Chiaksan is Wonju city’s gemstone. Ancient temples are perched atop its verdant peaks. For more information, click here.

      Jirisan (Jeolla and Gyeongsangnam). The highest peak on the South Korean mainland, sat in its own national park. If you’re a hiker, add this to your list. For more information, click here.

      Ulleung-do. Island outpost in the East Sea, with dramatic cliffs and high mountains. For more information, click here.

      Image.jpg

      Odaesan, in the heart of Seoraksan National Park.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

      Once known as the Land of Morning Calm for its tranquil, natural beauty, South Korea still tries hard to stay green and push its environmental credentials.

      Around 75 percent of South Korea is, indeed, made up of pine-covered mountains, but this can make what’s squashed into the other quarter something of a surprise. Among countries with populations over 10 million, South Korea is the fourth most densely populated in the world (after Bangladesh, Taiwan, and Rwanda), while Seoul’s metropolitan area is home to over 26 million people, all crammed into an area smaller than Jamaica. Nevertheless, things are certainly getting better from a green perspective, and there are plenty of ways in which you can enjoy the country’s more natural side.

      Staying the traditional way

      Though you’ll find excellent accommodation all around the land, there are great options for travelers who’d like to stay somewhere distinctly local. Most of Korea’s traditional wooden housing – known as hanok – was razed to the ground as the country modernized, but it has seen a recent (perhaps belated) renaissance. Seoul (in the Bukchon area; for more information, click here), Andong (in Hahoe village; for more information, click here), and Jeonju (for more information, click here) have retained significant hanok districts, while Gangneung, Gongju, and Gyeongju have seen new hanok districts or developments pop up; in all of these, many properties have been converted into guesthouses, which typically make for wonderfully atmospheric stays.

      Cycling surrounded by cherry blossom at Samnak Ecological Park in Busan.

      Shutterstock

      In addition, travelers willing to wake up before the birds can benefit from the country’s excellent Templestay program (eng.templestay.com), which offers a fascinatingly in-depth look into Korea’s Buddhist heritage; activities often include meditation, tea ceremonies, eating simple (almost always vegetarian) Buddhist meals, and helping out with temple chores.

      National parks and island visits

      Many of Korea’s most beautiful temples can be found on the fringes of its national parks, of which there are no fewer than 22 around the country – in other words, wherever you go in Korea, you’ll never be very far from some sumptious countryside. Most of the national parks are mountainous in nature, though the hiking trails tend to be fairly straightforward; one notable exception is the multi-day trek across Jirisan (for more information, click here), a park in the country’s south, and containing many of its highest peaks. Most of the rest can be found in Seoraksan (for more information, click here), over in the northeast, which features some breathtakingly craggy scenery. Heading further off the tourist radar (both international and domestic), many of Korea’s 3000-plus islands are clustered into two marine national parks – Taean Haean off the west coast, and Dadohae Haesang in the southwest. The inhabited islands are all accessible by ferry and/or bridge, and make for an exciting – and occasionally very old-school – detour from the main tourist trails.

      Walking

      Although Korea has an enviably comprehensive public transportation system (and, consequently, an admirably low vehicle ownership rate for a developed country), you don’t have to escape to a national park in order to get a decent walk in. Most notable is the Olle trail on Jeju Island (for more information, click here), which stretches for 437km in total, divided into 27 routes; this can take up to a month to complete in full, so most visitors focus on a few of the more enjoyable routes. Alternatively, you could try a city walk; most Korean cities used to be distinctly pedestrian-unfriendly, but this has really changed, particularly in Seoul, which now has some superb straight-line walking options; one of the best is the 5.4km-long Gyeongui Line Forest Park, built on an old railway line, and there’s now something similar running alongside the old Haeundae station in Busan.

      Bicycles

      Cycle paths are now profuse across the land (particularly on river banks), and you can get all the way from Seoul to Busan using them; the government’s official site (bike.go.kr) has some decent route information. Interestingly, the creation of these cycle paths managed to ruffle feathers with the country’s environmental lobby – with some justification, considering the amount of concrete required (and the relationship of certain politicians to certain construction companies or providers of concrete). However, in some notable tourist areas, bicycles have fallen out of favour in recent years – Udo and Gyeongju (for more information, click here) are examples of places in which bike trips were once common, but are now almost entirely eschewed in favour of a range of electrical (and sometimes petrol-driven) alternatives, including electric bikes, scooters, ATVs, and golf-style buggies.

      Coal still accounts for more than 30 percent of the country’s electrical consumption, with renewable sources only commanding a 10 percent share (though one that’s rising slowly); in other words, if you’d like to rent some wheels in one of the tourist hot-spots, try to find a regular pedal bike if possible.

      Keeping it old-school in the alleys

      Until very recently, retro just wasn’t a thing in Korea – seven straight decades of back-to-back occupation, war, poverty, and dictatorship only ended in the 1980s, and meant that the not-too-distant past wasn’t always something to be remembered fondly. With those difficult times further from their minds, Korea’s younger generation has started to embrace old-school areas – and at just the right time, since city authorities have increasingly started to encourage smaller-scale redevelopment, rather than simply signing off on yet more swathes of high-rise blocks. The best places to see this new love of the old in action is in alley districts known as golmok, many of which have been gentrified (sometimes gently, occasionally less so) in recent years. Every major Korean city has at least one, and spending money in these loveable areas enables them to fight off the wrecking balls for a little while longer.

      Hanboknam (traditional Korean dress) in Jeonju Hanok Village, outside a traditional hanok guesthouse.

      Shutterstock

      Downtown Seoul.

      Shutterstock

      In the heart of Seoraksan National Park.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Glorious fall foliage near Buyeo.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      The Silla tombs at Gyeongju.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      THE SHRIMP BETWEEN WHALES

      Ancient and modern casually co-exist in this East Asian land, which has recently become one of the world’s it places. South Korea is certainly full of interest, yet much of the country remains happily removed from the main tourist trail.

      Surrounded by the historically less-than-gentle giants of Japan, China, and Russia, the Korean peninsula has long been the shrimp between whales, as it is described in a Korean proverb. The situation is exacerbated by the long-standing schism between North and South, a Cold War fault line that continues to divide the Korean people into rich and poor, free and oppressed.

      Still fiercely independent after centuries of invasions and wars, South Korea combines Confucian and Buddhist traditions with the modernity that makes it one of the world’s most technologically advanced nations. The teeming, high-rise, high-energy conurbation of the capital, Seoul, is home to 25 million people (in the metropolitan area) and a global leader in cutting-edge technology. However, it is also a centuries-old city with a rich history, and traditions of the old Joseon dynasty survive amid the modern clamor. Monks and fortune-tellers wander among the fashionable young, while shrines and temples sit quietly beneath towering office blocks.

      You can expect a friendly, humorous reception from proud, spontaneous locals: even in the main cities you will be regarded with a certain curiosity and hospitality. With a penchant for entertainment, including drinking, song, dance, and theater, the Koreans are boisterous and joyous hosts. The food is fantastic, too.

      Thanks to K-pop, Oscar-winning films and Netflix mega-hits, South Korea is finally on the tourist map, yet the staggering economic achievements of recent generations sometimes overshadow its rich cultural heritage and haunting natural beauty. The fact that there are relatively few tourists off the main trail makes for a more authentic and rewarding experience for those who do travel here to explore the mountains and their lost-in-the-clouds temples, the timeless rural landscapes, ancient villages, and imperial ruins.

      Hiking up to Sunrise Peak on Jeju Island.

      Shutterstock

      GEOGRAPHY

      Substantial areas of natural beauty remain in the compact, mountainous, urbanized peninsular land of South Korea.

      Wherever the traveler walks, drives, or flies in Korea, he or she will see hills and mountains, poetically rendered as …the distant peaks. Whether in the joyous lyricism of the great classical (sijo) poet Yun, or in the many paintings of North Korea’s Geumgangsan (Diamond Mountains), the majestic peaks of this lovely peninsula are depicted time and again.

      From Manchuria in the north to Jeju Island, south, in the East China Sea, the entire Korean landscape is ribbed by forested, rocky mountain ridges. In fact only about 20 percent of the peninsula’s total land area is flatland. Yet the mountains do not reach any great elevation; the highest point on the peninsula, Baekdusan on the North Korean border with China, reaches 2,744 meters (9,002ft). Mainland South Korea’s loftiest peak is Jirisan, in Jeollanam Province, at 1,915 meters (6,283ft); the summit of volcanic Hallasan, on Jeju Island, is 1,950 meters (6,400ft) high.

      The Korean peninsula is relatively small – approximately 1,000km (620 miles) long and 215km (135 miles) wide at its narrowest points. Seoul is, as the crow flies, approximately 1,100km (680 miles) east of Beijing and approximately 1,400km (870 miles) west of Tokyo.

      Ancient land bridge

      This small offshoot from the Asian landmass is one of the world’s oldest land areas, dating back to the pre-Cambrian period (1,600 to 2,700 million years ago). The basic foundation of granite and limestone is old and tough. As you travel up and down the peninsula, take note that you are crossing an ancient land bridge that is tilted toward the west and into the Yellow Sea. This tipping, caused by volcanic pressure on the peninsula in ancient times, has left the offshore area of Korea’s west coast dotted with hundreds of islands. Also, in concert with the Yellow Sea’s wide tide changes, this west-side sinking produced far-reaching, shallow inlets that look like huge, placid, sky-blue lakes at high tide.

      Seoraksan National Park.

      Shutterstock

      On the east coast fronting the East Sea (the Sea of Japan to non-Koreans), the mountains march right down to a coastline marked by tiny coves. These eastern waters, cooled by the Japan current which flows south from the Siberian coast, nurture an abundance of cuttlefish and salmon, while the warmer, shallower Yellow Sea is populated by clams, oysters, shrimp, sea snails, and abalone.

      Out of the 25 highest accessible peaks in South Korea, 21 can be found in just 4 national parks – Jirisan, Seoraksan, Deogyusan, and Taebaeksan – and 14 of these are in Jirisan alone.

      Birds’ migratory pit stop

      Along the shallow inlets that characterize the west coast, great expanses of sedge play host to a variety of water birds – the most notable of which is the Manchurian crane (also known as the red-crowned crane). This bird was assumed to be virtually extinct, but in 1977 Dr George Archibald, head of the International Crane Foundation, found a large colony thriving in Korea’s Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) – the heavily guarded strip between North and South, which has become an unlikely refuge for wildlife.

      Tea-picking in Jeollanam-do.

      Korea National Tourism Corporation

      These shallow waters are also home to the white-naped crane and many different species of ducks, geese, and swans. Korea has a large population of oriental storks, their huge unwieldy nests capping many trees the length and breadth of the land. The peninsula also acts as a part-time home for many birds that follow migration routes cutting across the country.

      The avian population has been rising in recent years as government regulations crack down on shooting. As the result of a bird-killing ban, the sparrow population has increased so much that sparrow netting is now permitted for a limited period every fall, and, where only a decade or so ago the pheasant seemed on its way to extinction in Korea, it is now common.

      Mammals and snakes

      Mammals have not fared as well as birds, for two reasons. Firstly, the wholesale deforestation that occurred during the Japanese occupation destroyed a range of habitats that were already under stress. Secondly, and this is still a problem today, the common perception persists that wild animals have medicinal properties – few of the larger mammals and reptiles have managed to escape the Korean stew pot.

      The tiger is still celebrated in art, but disappeared from South Korea in the 1920s; a small population may remain in the remote mountains of North Korea. Local leopards are another popular subject, but all that remains of them is speculation that they may still be roaming the remote forests of the North.

      One of life’s ironies is that the DMZ between North and South Korea has provided a peaceful place where wildlife can proliferate. One creature to have benefitted from this refuge is a small wildcat, which has all but completely disappeared in mountains south of the 38th parallel.

      Some small native bears, now protected, have been found on Jirisan in the southwest. They had almost disappeared, as the consumption of bear meat has long been considered good for health. Also, a community of otters – about 100 of them – was found along the Nakdong River at about the same time the bears were discovered. The wild boar population is thriving, and there are several indigenous species of deer, including the roe deer and the Siberian musk deer.

      The magpie is South Korea’s national bird.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Korea used to have a large indigenous snake population, but they are now rarely seen. You are more likely to see snakes in the Oriental medicine market than slithering across the trails of Seoraksan. Hope for these disappearing species may come from an unusual source: Viagra and its competitors, which are far more effective (and less expensive!) than their Korean potion equivalents. But it may be a matter of too little, too late for native populations, if they still exist at all.

      Jeju Island is famous for its horses, which are allowed to roam freely. The island’s subtropical climate provides ample forage for grazing throughout the year. South Korea also boasts a unique breed of dog, the Jindotgae. This is a medium-sized, short-haired canine with a moderately pointed snout, heavy shoulders, and a coloring that varies from cream to off-brown.

      Fruits of the forest

      Korea’s forest flora is closely related to that of neighboring China and Japan. The peninsula’s indigenous plants are most likely to be preserved in temple gardens where, for centuries, Buddhist monks tended Korea’s flora and fauna with loving care. It is here that the finest specimens of the ginkgo tree, a variety of maple, and herbaceous plants thrive.

      Korea has such a large population of azaleas that it is quite often impossible to cross forest clearings without trampling them. Wild weigela, spiraea, viburnums, holly, hydrangeas, boxwood, daphne, and a host of other plants are all viewed as weeds, but it is now against the law to dig up such plants in the wild or cut down a tree without government permission (at least in theory). The woody plants have become common as a result of reforestation programs.

      Oddly enough, the azalea that covers almost every mountainside and fills every untilled field is not the national flower. That official honor has been bestowed on the Rose of Sharon (Mugunghwa), which supposedly symbolizes the resilient spirit of the Korean people.

      Korean roadsides in the fall are adorned with a beautiful floral froth of lavender, pink, white, and deep-red cosmos.

      The rural landscape

      Until a few generations ago, South Korea was a land of farmers. While the vast majority of young people have abandoned the countryside, they dutifully pack into their new cars and head back to their rural gohyang (hometowns) whenever an opportunity arises. Farms and country villages still have strong sentimental appeal for Koreans, even though they typically avoid physically demanding, poorly paid farm jobs.

      Traditional housing (hanok) in the Bukchon-dong area of Seoul.

      Chris Stowers/Apa Publications

      Drive through the countryside and you will notice that a large proportion of those working the fields are elderly. While the rest of the economy has modernized, agriculture has largely been left behind, stuck with farming methods from a bygone era. In some of the more remote rural areas you can still see farmers harvesting rice by hand (though this is becoming rare).

      Mostly because of the older populations, Korean villages are bastions of tradition and conservatism, where change comes slowly. Many village homes are traditional in style, with sliding hanji doors (made of mulberry tree paper), surrounded by a clay and rock wall. These dwellings huddle together in tight hillside clusters, their roofs tiled in matching colors. It is ironic that there are so many tourist-targeted folk villages, when all you have to do is drive a half-hour out of the city to get a glimpse of traditional Korean life.

      Yet changes are coming to the countryside. The hillier regions are not well suited to efficient farming, but are attractive areas for recreation. And these days new roads, building projects, leisure complexes, and second homes are much more common in the areas around major cities.

      The urban landscape

      The contrasts between urban and rural life are extremely pronounced in South Korea. Most of the large urban areas have experienced phenomenal rates of growth in the past few decades, a fact which lends them a slightly rough and ready appearance. As befits such a technologically advanced country, the streets are full of energy. Or just plain full: the sidewalks are crowded, there are neon lights plastered on every wall, and scooters swerve in and out of pedestrian traffic. On the outskirts, islands of apartment complexes are gobbling up green space, extending the cities inexorably outward.

      Urbanization has, as ever, come at a price. There are far too few green spaces among the honking horns and blaring loudspeakers, and the number of cars (and proximity to China) has given South Korea some major air pollution problems.

      There is some good news for the human landscape, though. Rapid economic development has curtailed population growth, and increased affluence has allowed the government to turn its attention to the worst environmental problems. Development has been limited in mountain regions, and South Korea has one of the best National Park systems in Asia.

      SATELLITE CITIES

      South Korea faces a major problem in that only 20–30 percent of its land area is habitable. There are simply too many people living in a small, mountainous country, especially in the main urban areas. Concerned with rapid growth, particularly in the Seoul area, the government decided to build satellite cities to encourage decentralization. The new cities of Gwacheon, Ilsan, Bucheon, and Bundang were built in record time, and are graced with wide avenues, pleasant parks, and miles of high-rise apartments. Even the recent population nosedive hasn’t slowed down the building – Sejong City and Incheon’s Songdo district are two of the newer mega-developments.

      City streets in South Korea are often edged with ginkgos, ailanthus, plane trees, sumac, and paulownia, and most villages have an ancient zelkova or persimmon tree.

      The great outdoors

      South Korea’s national parks protect many of the country’s most picturesque mountain and coastal regions, and have grown steadily in size and in popularity since they were first established in 1967. Jirisan, in the southwest of the country, was the first, and remains the third largest at 471 sq km (182 sq miles). There are now a total of 22 national parks, including four marine and coastal parks, covering roughly 6 percent of the nation’s area. Apart from Hallasan on Jeju Island, the parks are nowadays overseen by the Korea National Parks Service, which operates its own police force to ensure that regulations are adhered to.

      Few weekends pass when Koreans don’t take to the trails that crisscross the parks. Spring and fall are especially popular trekking times, as either blossoming trees or fading leaves make for particularly photogenic outings. For more on hiking, for more information, click

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