Frequently Asked Questions

Please find our most frequently asked for information below, if you have any more questions please drop us an email at [email protected] or us our Contact Us form

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We ship all orders from the UK and tems are usually dispatched within one working day of receipt of payment, though custom and personalised items can be expected to take longer (usually between 2 - 4 working days)

Deliveries within the UK are posted First Class and can usually be expected to arrive within 1 - 2 working days, but can take longer
Deliveries Worldwide can usually be expected to arrive within 14-28 working days

We do not charge VAT on orders outside of the UK, and any VAT included in the product price will be removed at the basket stage once delivery destination is selected
Orders for delivery outside of the UK may incur import duties and customs handling fees, these fees are the responsibility of the buyer and we recommend checking what they will be before placing an order

Click here for Delivery Methods & Costs

To automatically calculate your postage costs just click into your Basket and select destination country
You will then see your available delivery options and costs

1) I always find a ‘Pink Gin’ steadies the nerves before I start work, (a Pimm’s may be substituted in warm weather or the colonies), although stickers should not be fitted in bright sunlight or to hot coachwork.

2) After your driver has brought the vehicle around from the motor house carefully decide where the sticker is to be located – mark a suitable datum point, say the baseline, with a piece of masking tape.

3) Clean the area scrupulously. I find that seldom can your chauffeur be trusted to do a really thorough job. ‘Panel-Wipe’ or similar is very good but stickers will stick well to very clean polished automobile bodywork.

4) A proprietary application fluid whilst unnecessary for small items may help fit larger stickers, or you may mist spray a weak detergent solution onto the paintwork and after applying the sticker carefully squeegee the fluid outwards from the centre (I get cook to mix some up at about 1/5th the strength she uses to wash up). This method is useful if final positioning is not known.

5) Flick the edge of the sticker clear of the backing paper but do not touch the sticky side with your fingers. Peel the backing paper partly back and line up the bottom edge of the sticker using the markers you have previously applied to the car. You may apply and remove the sticker several times if you don’t get it right first time – just be careful not to stretch the vinyl or touch the sticky back.

6) When the first edge is satisfactorily in place use a soft cloth (an old cravat is perfect) to smooth the vinyl onto the paintwork removing the backing paper as you go – don’t rush and don’t be afraid to peel gently back off if an air bubble is trapped underneath. Really good sorts can apply quite large stickers to double curvature panels by carefully stretching and bending the vinyl as they go. The golden rule is not to rush and smooth with a cloth as you go.

7) If you are really rubbish and the whole thing ends up looking like Binky Carringtons face after a wet week in Brighton you can often rescue the situation by pricking the bubbles with a pin and squeezing the air gently out of the hole. Good luck old chap!

How to fit Screentops with out getting into a right old tiz!

1) Now the first thing is that you must not attempt this when you are alone in the desert during a sandstorm! Because the three things you require are a helpful chum (or preferably chummess), a still dust free environment and a water spray bottle with a small amount of washing up liquid in it..

2) Get your butler/chauffeur/man servant/girlfriend/ to bring the motor around from the motor house and to thoroughly clean the windscreen.

3) Remember that Sun strips are supplied oversize and require trimming to suit the screen.

4) Lay the sun strip across the top of the screen so that the bottom edge meets your requirements when seated in the car, and remember you need to be able to see out when going up hills.

5) Double check that the sun strip covers all the desired area of the screen and overlaps the edges sufficiently for later trimming.

6) Mark the bottom line on the screen with masking tape, permanent marker or small pieces of vinyl cut from the excess on the sun strip.

7) Mark the centre of the sun strip so that it marries up with a similar mark in the centre of the screen (this is to aid location when sticking down).

8) Once you are satisfied with the location spray your weak detergent solution onto the screen and your assistants T shirt, with the help of your assistant remove the backing paper from the sun strip. Remember to keep fingers away from the sticky side (of sun strip & assistant)..

9) Taking one end each and working from different sides of the car carefully offer the sun strip up to the marks you have previously made and lay it onto the wet screen.

10) Make a temporary squeegee from a credit card wrapped in a soft cloth and, starting from the centre and working outwards, squeeze carefully across the sun strip removing the bubbles as you go.

11) At the edges you can now trim the excess vinyl from the sun strip with a sharp knife. On some vehicles you can cut slightly oversize and slide the excess under the screen rubber for a more stable fitting. On others you must trim carefully to the edge of the screen.

12) Ignore the jeers of those Johnnies down at the Golf Club, I think a Rolls Royce looks fab with a ‘Terry & June’ Sunstrip on the screen!

These are the instructions for fitting cut vinyl number plates (seperate digits and backing piece) if you are trying to fit one piece printed number plates see 'Fitting Large Stickers'

Extract from Number Plate Regs (1971) Cars & Light Vehicles:
"Each letter ot figire shall be 80mm high, 57mm (50mm on later plates) wide and have a stroke width of 14mm. Space between letters should be 11mm. On single line registrations the space between the group of letters and the group of numbers shall be 33mm. On two line registrations the space between the upper and lower line shall be 19mm. The space between the letters and numbers and the edge of the plate shall be at least 11mm."

Motorcycles & Scooters:
"Front number plates not required from 1971 onwards. Each letter or figure shall be 64mm high 44 wide and have a stroke width of 10mm. The space between each character shall be 10mm. Upper, lower and side margins should be at least 10mm. The space between groups of letters and figures shallbe 13mm."

Instructions for Self Adhesive Number Plate Fitting:

1) Thoroughly clean and prepare the area of application.

2) Apply base sticker by using a squeegee and soapy water as detailed on our 'Fitting Large Stickers' page.

Once base sticker is in place the letters can be fitted using the following method;
3) Use a length of masking tape to form a straight line that's about 11-15mm from the bottom of the oblong where the lowest edge of the characters will be. 

4) Work out the spacing of your particular number / letter set up.

5) Apply the application tape supplied to the face of the first character, rub with squeegee and pull thick backing paper away at an acute angle.

6) Starting on the left leave a gap of at least 11mm and then apply your first number. Rub the application tape and then pull away at an acute angle. You may re-use the application tape to apply each character. Leave a gap of 11mm and apply the second character and so on to the end.

Boring bit alert: PLEASE NOTE THAT SELF ADHESIVE VINYL NUMBER PLATES AS USED ON ‘E’ TYPE JAGUARS, MINIS, MGB’S ETC. DO NOT COMPLY WITH MODERN LEGISLATION AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON CARS TO BE RACED, RALLIED, SHOWN OR DISPLAYED. WE ARE UNABLE TO ACCEPT LIABILITY FOR THEIR USE IN ANY OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES.

LEGAL BIT: Currently (April 2017) the UK government is running a 40 year old rule and vehicles reclassified as historic vehicles in their taxation class can wear black & white/silver number plates.

To Clear Coat or Not To Clear Coat - That Is The Question!

I Say Ding Dong stickers do not need clear coating. We have stickers over 10 years old that have lived outdoors on vehicles all that time and are still fine. Yours will be too unless they are to be subjected to hostile environments or aggressive fluids or pastes. This includes most modern polishes and screen cleaners as they are solvents as well as the obvious one - Petrol. This is why all of the manufacturers clear coat over stickers applied to the petrol tank. Naturally the stickers durability &  lifespan will be increased should you choose to do so. But Clear coating can be a minefield.

We are not professional painters so cannot give definitive advice on this however this is what our customers tell us:

Always try the compatibility of the clear coat you wish to use on an off-cut of vinyl the same as the sticker you wish to cover (we will happily supply some off-cuts with your order if asked at the time of purchase).

Clear coating always requires lots of very thin coats, a great big heavy dollop of an initial application will nearly always cause trouble.

Some tell us PPG or BASF type clear coats work well if correctly applied and urethane can work well if applied professionally.

Never use cans of clear from Halfords or similar, experiments with these seem nearly always doomed to failure.

Talking to the experts they tell us that impatience, poor prep, unsuitable materials, too heavy coats and common or garden lack of skill cause the most problems. 
But even they admit to still having issues occasionally!

Modern stickers are not as resistant to solvents as their predecessors were, that, whatever anybody tells you, is the truth of it.

We have stickers on the shelf that are 50 years old and still look good, the glue is all shot to hell and the vinyl is like an old piece of lino, but no amount of petrol washed over the artwork would fade the ink (except the Red which has long since disappeared as it always did).

However, we (the print trade) have been banned from using full solvent inks for many years now and have no choice but to use 'eco-solvent' inks instead. By definition these formulations do not burn their way into the vinyl like the old ones did.

The easy comparison is with modern day petrol versus the old volatile 5 star fully leaded stuff we used to get; We could run 11 to 1 compression ratios, leave the fuel in our tanks for years and not worry about age deterioration, get high as a kite on the fumes, and still start after 2 years and a few kicks. But times change and Health and Safety changes too.

Some screen printed stickers seem to be slightly better at solvent resistance but the screen print process requires longer runs to make production viable and as such sticker screen printers are a dying breed and designs limited by the economics of the process.

Some stickers have a second clear vinyl laminated over them but this can look odd and once moisture/petrol and or heat gets between the two the delamination effect is not good.

No sticker should ever be fixed in an area where it is likely to come into contact with solvents without being clear coated first (even in the old days they had to be 'lacquered' over witness all the Japanese bikes of the 60's and 70's).

This in itself is a potential nightmare but our stickers are printed on modern high quality vinyls and are compatible with most modern clear coats, but do request an extra vinyl test sample with your order if unsure.

Solvent polishes are just that, solvents. They are designed to slightly melt the top surface of the paint and as such should only be used on clear coated stickers.
Old style waxes are generally less harmful but the act of rubbing any product enthusiastically across an unprotected printed surface is bound to cause deterioration.
You should always polish around the stickers and not over them.
Conversely, the old trick of using T-Cut to make a new sticker look old is still much in use by those who wish to create a 'sun aged' and 'time worn' look.

In conclusion, if you are putting stickers in an area of possible solvent contamination or high abrasion consider using a suitable clear coat. It can be a full Japanese motorcycle style 'two pack everything until it glistens' job or even a carefully applied can will make the world of difference.

If you do accidentally spill petrol or any other solvent on your stickers it can be wiped off gently or, better still, leave it to evaporate.

Or you could just stop spilling petrol all the time - it's expensive enough!

 Most modern stickers use a solvent based adhesive which is weatherproof and has been designed not to adversely affect painted and or plastic surfaces.

There are always exceptions to this and as the substrate preparation etc is beyond our control we cannot be held responsible for any damage that may be caused by application or removal of stickers.

Having said that, we have produced millions of stickers that have been applied to thousands of vehicles around the world and have yet to experience any sort of serious problem.

It is during removal that you are most likely to damage your paintwork but a couple of simple tips should eliminate any problems:

1) Use a heat gun (or park the vehicle in the sun* *not applicable in the UK ) this will soften up the glue.

2) Do not use any sharp implement - not even your finger nail,  its not necessary. Just get the sticker warm and rub the edge with your thumb and it will start to come off.

3) Then peel the sticker by rolling it back across itself (like folding bed sheets back) - not pulling it upwards like opening a car bonnet - this will put the least tension into the paintwork. If your paint work is well applied and keyed to a good surface the sticker will pull away cleanly.

4) Depending on how long the sticker has been applied  and the conditions of removal there may be some glue left behind. Use a soft cloth or paper towel and some brake cleaner, Wd40, Washing up Liquid etc to remove the glue, do not use Petrol.

5) If necessary polish the area the sticker has been removed from.

6) Don't forget the most important bit, buy some more stickers to replace the old ones!

A Vectored Image (such as; CDR, Ai, EPS etc.) is one where the individual & separate component pixels within the image can be manipulated ie, in movement, size or colour, independently. These are preferred/required for most printing jobs. Vector images can be printed as large as require without pixelation occuring.

A jpeg (a type of raster image such as jPEG, PNG or GIF) is a single, one piece image like a family photo not suitable for independent component manipulation or blowing up too much. We are all familiar with the pixelation that occurs when a jpeg image (family photo) is stretched too far.

Some photographs when taken at a high enough resolution (eg min 300dpi for a 120mm image) can be used for small images (or even large ones if they are to be viewed from a distance and pixelation isn't an issue), however printing from photographs, particularly those transmitted electronically is unreliable and can lead to hours of wasted time trying to correct colour imbalances etc..

When creating a document for printing or reproducing in a large size ( more than a couple of inches or so ) it must be created in a draw programme such as Corel or Adobe Illustrator and saved as a vector file not in a photo shop style programme (the clue is in the title-its designed to mess around with photos) which can only create jPEGs.
The temptation to add newly discovered tricks such as 3d, varied tints, shadows, etc., can also complicate issues.

When exporting files containing lines, outlines and fonts always convert the whole file to curves before sending to avoid scaling and font issues.

So, to summarise, the advice is:

  • Always create vectors (& remember exporting a jpeg as a vector image does not make it a vector).
  • Keep it simple and avoid being tempted into too many tricks.
  • Send the file as curves not text to ensure compatibility.

Hope this helps.

If, for any reason, you are unhappy with your product, you have been sent an incorrect item, or there is a delay in the arrival of your item then please contact us via e-mail (at [email protected]) or via the Contact form, so that we can resolve the problem.

Refund/Return Policy

Buyer is entitled to return item/s for a full refund within 14 days of the purchase date. Item must be returned to us at: I Say Ding Dong Ltd, 49 Birchy Close, Shirley Solihull, West Midlands, B90 1QL, and a full refund will be issued upon receipt of the returned item/s. Buyer must bear the cost of returning non faulty items.
This 14 day return policy does not apply when, a) a type of enhanced delivery is chosen by the consumer, b) the value of goods has been diminished by the consumer, or c) where items are made to the buyer's specifications or are personalised.
Before returning your item please email us with your order details at [email protected] so that we know to expect your return and can process your refund more quickly.

If you have received a faulty item or there is a problem with your order then please contact us at [email protected] so that we can deal with your problem. 

Payment

Payment is accepted securely through Paypal and Credit/Debit card payments via Paypal Express or Stripe Payment Gateway. Details of all payments made in this way are handled externally by Paypal or Stripe. All payments are due upon receipt. If a payment is not received or payment method is declined, the buyer forfeits the ownership of any items purchased. If no payment is received, no items will be shipped.

If paying in a currency other than the one your bank account is held in the buyer may incur extra fees from the buyers bank account. These fees are the buyers responsibility and not that of the seller.

Shipping Policies                 

Shipping will be paid for by the buyer in the amount agreed upon by the seller at the time of purchase. If an item is lost, delayed or damaged during shipping buyer must contact seller to arrange a satisfactory resolution. Deliveries within the UK should expect to be received within 3-5 working days & deliveries Worldwide should expect to be received within 14-28 working days. Seller does not accept responsibility for delays or errors caused by the postal system & third party carriers.

Orders outside of the UK may incur import duties and customs handling fees, these fees are the responsibility of the buyer and we recommend checking what they will be before placing an order.

Refund/Return Policy

Buyer is entitled to return item/s for a full refund within 14 days of the purchase date. Item must be returned to us at: I Say Ding Dong Ltd, 49 Birchy Close, Shirley Solihull, West Midlands, B90 1QL, a full refund will be issued upon receipt of the returned item/s. Buyer must bear the cost of returning non faulty items.
This 14 day return policy does not apply when, a) a type of enhanced delivery is chosen by the consumer, b) the value of goods has been diminished by the consumer, or c) where items are made to the buyer's specifications or are personalised.
Before returning your item please email us with your order details at [email protected] so that we know to expect your return and can process your refund more quickly.

If you have received a faulty item or there is a problem with your order then please contact us at [email protected] so that we can deal with your problem. 

Complaints

Any complaints may be sent to us at [email protected] and will be dealt with as quickly as possible.

Legalities

We (the seller) are not responsible for any health or safety concerns once the buyer has received the item. If any harm is incurred from the items purchased by the buyer, the seller shares no responsibility.

Cookies

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These terms and conditions are subject to change.