Introduction: For The Love of Vodka
Introduction: For The Love of Vodka
Introduction: For The Love of Vodka
Why Vodka?
In part because numbers speak. Vodka is not only the number one consumed spirit in the United States but also ranks number one globally according to the Adult Beverage Resource Group at Technomic. And there is a certain compulsion to respond to the popular-yet-mistaken notion Arent all vodkas the same? Weve all heard itif not uttered it ourselves before learning otherwise. That said, if I am being completely honest, the fact that vodka suffers from a misplaced lack of respect was highly motivating for me to write this book. Often passed over as a spirit category of interest, it is at times unjustly given a bad rap within the bartending community. Vodkas heritage and flavor nuances deserve a measure of reverence; it deserves a place alongside its spirituous cousins whisky, gin, tequila, and so on. Got to love a challenge!
Appreciating Subtlety
Despite the widely held view to the contrary, all vodkas are not the same. Qualities and variation from one to another can be subtle, but they are there nonetheless. Think about tasting and comparing one vodka to another, not as comparing apples to oranges but akin to comparing apples to apples apples of the same variety grown in different orchards with differing geography and under various climate and nutrient conditions. All of these influences leave their subtle mark when the fruit is tasted. Wine geeks
would call this the influence of terroir. So it is with vodkasubtle variations, but there nonetheless. Try a blind tasting, and youll soon see this not-so-plain white spirit in a new light.
Raw Materials
The base ingredients used initially were those most readily and locally available, though that practice evolved as the industry sought more innovative approaches. Vodka can be made from virtually any starch, or fermentable sugar source. Traditionally, as remains the case in Eastern Europe, grain such as rye, wheat, or barleyand potato is used. The rest of the world, however, incorporates what traditionalists call alternative ingredients, such as corn or oats. Grapes, whey, maple sap, rice, and quinoa are among the less familiar and more recent additions. One of the least expensive and little advertised base ingredient is molasses. Derived from sugar beets and sugarcane, it has long been used in the production of large-volume brands that target the bulk or sub-premium market common practice in both the Vodka Belt and the West. Bottom line: A quality distillate starts with quality ingredients. The base ingredients selected impart a constellation of characteristics to the final product. In general, though by no means the rule, the four
most common base ingredient categoriesrye, wheat, potato, and cornfall along lines of expression for nose, palate, and mouth feel distinct to each (see page 130 for the typical vodka-tasting findings related to nose, palate and mouth feel according to base ingredient). Water is arguably the second raw material used in vodka production. I discuss its use and influence toward the final product further along in the Dilution section.
Fermentation
The first step in making any distilled spirit is to produce the equivalent of a fermented alcoholic beverage called a wash. This is achieved by converting the raw materials starch to fermentable sugars. Fermentation is initiated by adding malted grains into a mash of water and raw material. The naturally occurring enzymesalpha amylase and beta amylasein malted grains serve as a catalyst for the conversion process, brought along by adding heat. The mash now contains simple fermentable sugars glucose, fructose, and sucrose. Yeast is then added, which essentially feeds on the sugars. The quality and consistency of the yeast used can influence the quality of the vodka produced, so care must be taken when selecting yeast to ensure the best possible final result. The metabolite byproducts of the fermentation process are ethanol (alcohol) and carbon dioxide. It is this fermented mash, now referred to as wash, that proceeds to distillation. Made up of a relatively low percentage of alcohol by volume (ABV), water, and a small component of impurities, the wash is similar to a beer productraw, unrefined, but full of potential. How this potential is realized relies largely on the distillation and rectification skills of the Master Distiller.
desirable level of flavor, aroma, and texture. Of note, it is these removed elements that contribute largely to the flavor profile of dark spiritsand likely to the depth of any hangover.
Dilution
As I mentioned earlier, water is another raw material in vodka production. Most producers insist on using the best quality of water in their vodkaand for good reason. Many vodkas are distilled to 96 percent ABV or 192 proof, but most are sold at 40 percent ABV or 80 proof. To this end, a considerable percentage of water must be added to achieve appropriate dilution and proof. Understandably, water quality ranks a skinny second to base ingredient quality in terms of impact on flavor outcome. Nonetheless, water is significant as a diluent or to reduce the distillates proofsay, from 192 to 80. Using anything less than pristine, flavor-neutral water will adversely and significantly
affect the taste of the spirit. Most brands place great emphasis on their water. Manufacturers source their water from proprietary wells, protected reservoirs, springs, lakes, glaciers, or pristine mountain run-off. Others claim their source locations are free of any pollution. Some use distilled water, while some rely on local tap water that has been filtered and purified. Regardless of source, water added to the spirit must be free of minerals, impurities, and other contaminants. Otherwise all time, money, and effort spent producing a quality distillate are wasted.
Filtration
Faith and Wisniewski aptly observe, Throughout its history vodka has been the object of an underlying tension between those looking for purity at any cost and those looking for positive qualities. Filtration helps the Master Distiller achieve the desired levels of purity and flavor, once the distillation and rectification process has removed the lions share of congeners. Filtration is largely optional, and some vodka producers decide not to employ filtration beyond the function of eliminating obvious particulate matter. Instead, these producers prefer their product to retain some congeners, which imbue the spirit with flavor. Throughout the ages, charcoal or carbon, with its highly absorbent nature, has proven to be among the most efficient, widely-used filtration materials. Preference has even developed for charcoal made from specific treespine, birch, poplar, and oak, just to name a fewbecause of their degree of absorbency. Many producers now use activated charcoal or carbon because its absorbency increases markedly when heated to more than 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Once distilled and diluted, vodka is typically pumped through a filtration device (sometimes several) filled with activated charcoal. This process scrubs the distillate of any remaining undesirable particulates, leaving only a pure and clean spirit. Aside from charcoal, filtration materials and techniques span a diverse range. According to Pokhlebkin, early on vodka producers used felt of various types; woolen, linen or cotton cloth or cotton wool; paper of various thicknesses and densities; river, sea and quarried sand; (even) broken pottery. Recent additions include ground coconut shells, silver, gold, platinum, and diamonds. Different means, same goal. Again, each brands filtration approach is based on its preference and specifications. Is one material or method better than another? Arguably not, as long as the producer is satisfied that the method is delivering the desired outcome.
goal of mingling is to give the added water the opportunity to harmonize with the distillate to improve the final product.