Project On Knitted Fabric Parametre
Project On Knitted Fabric Parametre
Project On Knitted Fabric Parametre
REPORT ON
PROJECT WORK
ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC.
SUPERVISING TEACHER
SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN
Assistant professor,
College of Textile Engineering & Technology
Technolog
Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208
SUBMITTED BY:
S/N NAME ROLL NO REG NO SESSION
01. FAISAL BIN ALAM
02. MIR ABDUL NIME
03.
04.
05.
06.
07.
08.
09.
10.
11.
12.
13.
TO THOSE
WHO ARE INTERESTED TO LEARN
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
College of Textile Engineering & Technology has given us the opportunity to perform
the project work. We are obliged to MD. SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN, Assistant
professor, supervising Teacher of the college for giving us the opportunity to
accomplish of the project work.
We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to Md. MASHUD
AHMED, principle in-charge for his kind co-operation.
Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our college
and especially of FMT department for their kind inspiration and help, which remain us
the backdrop of all our efforts.
Finally, we would like to convey our acknowledgement that we remain responsible for
the inadequacies and errors, which doubtless remain.
ABSTRACT
At first we collect some of knitted fabric samples along with required data which are
needed to commence our project work with effective analysis. We also separate the
fabrics according to their class so that we can establish an acceptable result which will
be perfect for effective use and will help to carry out further activities depending on the
established form of work.
During our industrial attachment we manage to watch carefully and effectively the
knitted fabric specification along with machine specification and the major factors
which are necessary to calculate different types of variation and variable on which the
whole fabric construction depends. Our efforts were to develop a dependable way so
that we can easily visualize or can forecast the resulting fabric specification with
required configuration.
We have tried our best to emphasize on the adjustable points on which fabric G.S.M.,
stitch length, fabric width, & compactness directly or indirectly depends. The theoretical
as well as the practical knowledge that we gathered from our classes and in the industry,
help us to perform our project with credit and for this we specially convey thanks to our
honorable teachers.
KEY WORD
1. G.S.M.
2. Yarn Count.
3. Stitch length.
4. Yarn Diameter.
5. Fabric Width.
6. Machine gauge.
7. Needle gauge.
8. Wales space.
9. Needle pitch.
CONTENTS
Bibliography
Appendix
CHAPTER 1
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface area
in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful
mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the term includes
assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven processes and
tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and machines which are
related to knitted fabric production.
A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and
system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the
requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends
per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width but in case of
knitted fabric specification GSM, stitch length are mainly considered.
The title of our project work is Analysis of knitted fabric specification and other related
machine specification. There are problem in our industries to produce knitted fabrics of
required G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric thickness is generally
maintained in industries by previous data sheet. For this reason there are problem if any
order comes which didn’t produced in previous.
Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, loop
length selection, machine Diameter selection & machine gauge selection.
We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, loop
length, machine gauge, and machine diameter for the single jersey, Rib and interlock
fabric.
Aims of the project work are the following:
Find out relation between yarn count and GSM.
Find out the logic of selection of stitch length selection.
Selection of machine diameter and machine gauge to get specific width of fabric.
Find out the fabric width.
CHAPTER 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
GSM:
There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric. i.e. First formula is
Course per inch × Stitch length × 39.37 × 39.37 × Tex
GSM =
1000 × 1000
WPI × CPI × SL(mm)
GSM = x 0.9155
Count(Ne)
N.B: If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the
normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the
floating fibre and hairy fibre.
For light color, the finished GSM varies 1-2% from grey GSM.
1. It is very distinct from these tables that there is no proof that these values are true, as
they are not actual or experimental and they have taken these values from the mill and
factory.
2. They have determined the value of count by beesleys balance. We never give the value
of count in fraction but by our method we find that the value of count is most of the
time is fraction.
From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the selection of yarn
count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types, fabric construction. List of
equations are tabulated below:
Tex
d= mm For Cotton
26.7
1
dα
Ne
0.91
d=
Ne
Relation among GSM, stitch length and yarn count can be derived from the following equation:
GSMα
1
(When Yarn count and Stitch length both are variable)
Yarn count × Stitch length
∴ Yarn count × Loop length × G.S.M. = K
Where K is a Constant.
K which can be derived as follows:
CONSTANT AT A GLANCE:
Fabric Constant
1 X 1 Rib 16431.497
2 X 1 Rib 19005.333
Interlock 24013.8
1. It is understandable that gauge is an important factor for fabric width but actually the
width of fabric is dependent upon the number of needle present in the machine. Often
the number of needle present in the machine is not equal to Π dg . So the equation
should only be like following:
Different properties were found in Different knit structures according to stitch length, stitch
density that means wales per inch, course per inch.
Shortly they told loose structure that means higher loop length gives less GSM on fabric &
compact structure that means shorter loop length gives high GSM on fabric.
In their project analysis, they observed that single jersey plain structure & 1×1 plain rib
structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is too small. But in single
lacoste & polo-pique structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is high.
Because single lacoste & polo-pique structure are made by combination of knit & tuck loops.
They also analyzed that one knit loop consumes 30% more yarn than tuck loop. So calculated
GSM is higher in single lacoste & polo-pique structure than single jersey plain structure & 1×1
plain rib structure.
In general, the angle of spirality values decreases when the tightness factor values gets higher
that is decrease of loop length in all knitted samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop
can easily find an area to rotate & spirality increases.
The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the
fabrics knitted with open end yarns. This shows the effect of the spirality on twist liveliness.
Fabric shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e.; single jersey, rib, interlock & their
derivatives, yarn composition i.e.; 100% cotton, cotton & polyester & synthetic yarn.
CHAPTER 3
TERMINOLOGY & DEFINITION
TERMINOLOGY AND DEFINITION OF DIFFERENT KEYWORDS ARE
DISCUSSED BELOW:
STITCH LENGTH:
Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle
loop and half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the
adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in course in course length and it is that
which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.
YARN COUNT:
Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Yarn count is calculated in two systems:
a. Direct system
b. Indirect system
They are described below:
Direct system:
In this system the count lf yarn express the no. wt. units in one length unit. In direct system
“higher the count, coarser the yarn” This system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute etc
and count calculation formula is the following:
W ×l
Count =
w× L
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.
Indirect system:
In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit weight. In this system
higher the yarn count finer the yarn. It is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc
and the yarn count calculation formula is the following:
L×w
Count =
W ×l
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.
GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.
Fabric area density:
Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,
S ×l ×T
Area density = gm/m2
100
Here, T = Tex,
S = Stitch density,
l = Stitch length.
Fabric width:
Fabric width can be calculated by the following formula:
course length × Stitch length
Fabric width =
Kw
π × d × G × Stitch length
=
Kw
1. G.S.M:
The weight of fabric in gm per square meter is called G.S.M.
GSM α
1
(When Stitch length is same ) ………….(1)
Yarn count
GSM α
1
(When Yarn count is same) ………….(2)
Loop length
From the equation (1) & (2) we get,
GSM α
1
(When Yarn count and Stitch length both are variable)
Yarn count × Stitch length
∴ Yarn count × Loop length × G.S.M. = K
Where K = Constant.
K varies for the single jersey with different gsm, count, and loop length.
CONSTANT FOR SINGLE JERSEY FROM COLLECTED FABRIC (Ref-Appendix):
12083.96 − 12047.625
Deflection = × 100
12047.625
= 0.3%
ACTUAL DETERMINATION OF FABRIC GSM AND YARN COUNT FROM THE
COLLECTED FABRIC:
By taking two points from the straight line, we can find the following equation:
From (i)
(116,36.74) (181.67,25.57)
( x − 116)11.17
x = GSM , y = Count y= + 36.74
−65.67
x − 116 y − 36.74 = ( x − 116)( −0.17) + 36.74
=
116 − 181.67 36.74 − 25.54 = ( −0.17 x) + 19.72 + 36.74
x − 116 y − 36.74
⇒ = y = 56 − 0.17 x
−65.67 11.17
( y − 36.74)( −65.67)
⇒x= + 116 Example :
11.17
⇒ x = −5.88 y + 216 + 116 Count , y = 30
⇒ x = 332 − 5.88 y GSM = 332 − 5.88 × 30 = 155.6
2. FABRIC WIDTH:
Along the fabric width there presents the wales. The total no. of needle is fixed for the same
cylinder having the equal gauge as well as diameter.
Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space.
=Total no of needle in the machine X Wales space.
The above concepts clarify that Fabric width closely depends on total no. of needle not directly
related to machine diameter or machine gauge.
WALES SPACE:
The space covered by a wale is called wale space for that wale.
Wales space depends on:
a. Yarn diameter.
b. Loop length.
They are described below:
1. YARN DIAMETER:
1.2
yarn diameter
0.8
yarn dia
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
0 20 40 60 80
yarn count
From the experiment it is seen that yarn diameter decreases with the increases of yarn
count. The count which are generally used in circular knitting machine in Bangladesh
(20 to 40) the rate of decrease is generally slow than that of below 20 count in which the
rate of increase of yarn count is higher or it increase rapidly.
When the loop length is minimum, the leg of loop comes in close contact with each
other and there is no free space among left, middle and right zone of interloping area.
Interloping Area
COMMENT: In case of minimum loop length there is no space left in interloping area.
i.e. stretched due to tension the wales space become less than 4d (d is the yarn diameter)
When loop length is increased the space into the interloping area i.e. the zone a, b & c
are increased as a result wales space becomes wider. It may be upto 5.2d (depending on
the collected data)
ACTUAL VALUE OF RATIO OF WALES SPACE AND DIA OF YARN:
COMMENT:
It’s clear from the chart that, the ratio of yarn dia to wales space is very near of 4.
So we can say that one wales occupy 4d space, where d is the yarn diameter.
So, from the above chart, we found the relation between the yarn count and the WPI as
follow,
28 × Ne
WPI =
4
TABLE SHOWS THE ACTUAL WPI IN ACCORDANCE TO THE COUNT:
COMMENT:
From the above chart, we came to the decision that WPI the equation as follows:
28 × Ne
WPI =
4
CHAPTER 5
MACHINE SPECIFICATION
MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
1. Machine gauge.
2. Machine Diameter.
3. Needle gauge.
They are described below:
1. MACHINE GAUGE:
No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine
gauge for that knitting machine.
A term giving a notational indication of the no. of needles per unit length along a
needle bed or needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit
length of one English inch (25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting
machine.
Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter depends
upon the following:
1. Yarn count
2. Fibre type
3. Yarn twist
4. Yarn finished
General practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in
Bangladesh given below:
M/C Gauge Ne
18 14.0/1 – 23.5/1
20 18.0/1 – 26.0/1
22 21.5/1 – 29.5/1
24 23.5/1 – 35.5/1
26 26.0/1 – 41.5/1
28 29.5/1 – 47.5/1
30 35.5/1 – 59.0/1
32 41.5/1 – 70.0/1
2. MACHINE DIAMETER:
Machine diameter is mainly diameter of cylinder. It is important for fabric width. Only
diameter does not determine the fabric width. It need helps machine gauge and wales
space which is depend upon yarn count and loop length.
Fabric dia
So, the machine dia for particular fabric dia is = X 100
X%
X = percentage of fabric found in relation to
The m/c perimeter.
Fabric dia × Ne
So, the relation between the machine dia and the machine dia is = 7 x
M/C Gauge
For example, if the machine dia is 32”, yarn count 24Ne, and the machine gauge is 24
32 × 24
then the fabric dia will be = = 22.4 inch.
7 × 24
GRAPH SHOWN THE RELATION BETWEEN THE COUNT AND THE WPI:
50
WPI
45
40
35
30
25
20 WPI
15
10
5
0
0 10 20 30 40 50
COUNT
FIG: Relation between the yarn count and the wpi.
3. NEEDLE GAUGE:
Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for selection of
machine gauge. Needle gauge is different for the different gauge and different Brand.
Some needle gauge found in industries is given below:
if the GSM of the fabric is “x” and the count of yarn is “y”, then the equation for
Fabric dia × Ne
The relation between the Fabric dia and the Machine dia is = 7 x
M/C Gauge
1. Knitting technology
By – Devid J. Spencer
2. Handbook of Technical Textile
By – J E Mclintyre
4. Circular knitting
5. Knitting calculation