UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA

COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING &

TECHNOLOGY

REPORT ON
PROJECT WORK
ANALYSIS OF SPECIFICATIONS OF BASIC SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC.
SUPERVISING TEACHER
SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN
Assistant professor,
College of Textile Engineering & Technology
Technolog
Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208
SUBMITTED BY:
S/N NAME ROLL NO REG NO SESSION
01. FAISAL BIN ALAM
02. MIR ABDUL NIME
03.
04.
05.
06.
07.
08.
09.
10.
11.
12.
13.
 TO THOSE
WHO ARE INTERESTED TO LEARN
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

College of Textile Engineering & Technology has given us the opportunity to perform
the project work. We are obliged to MD. SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN, Assistant
professor, supervising Teacher of the college for giving us the opportunity to
accomplish of the project work.

We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to Md. MASHUD
AHMED, principle in-charge for his kind co-operation.

Heartfelt thanks goes to Senior Textile Engineers of various industries (DBL,

MEGHNA, ESQUIRE, S.M KNITTING INDUSTRY.) from whom we collect the
sample.

Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our college
and especially of FMT department for their kind inspiration and help, which remain us
the backdrop of all our efforts.

Finally, we would like to convey our acknowledgement that we remain responsible for
the inadequacies and errors, which doubtless remain.
 ABSTRACT
At first we collect some of knitted fabric samples along with required data which are
needed to commence our project work with effective analysis. We also separate the
fabrics according to their class so that we can establish an acceptable result which will
be perfect for effective use and will help to carry out further activities depending on the
established form of work.

During our industrial attachment we manage to watch carefully and effectively the
knitted fabric specification along with machine specification and the major factors
which are necessary to calculate different types of variation and variable on which the
whole fabric construction depends. Our efforts were to develop a dependable way so
that we can easily visualize or can forecast the resulting fabric specification with
required configuration.

We have tried our best to emphasize on the adjustable points on which fabric G.S.M.,
stitch length, fabric width, & compactness directly or indirectly depends. The theoretical
as well as the practical knowledge that we gathered from our classes and in the industry,
help us to perform our project with credit and for this we specially convey thanks to our
honorable teachers.
 KEY WORD

1. G.S.M.

2. Yarn Count.

3. Stitch length.

4. Yarn Diameter.

5. Fabric Width.

6. Machine gauge.

7. Needle gauge.

8. Wales space.

9. Needle pitch.
 CONTENTS

Chapter no Chapter name Page no

Chapter 1 General Introduction

Chapter 2 Literature review

Chapter 3 Terminology & definition

Chapter 4 Fabric specification

Chapter 5 Machine specification

Chapter 6 Result & discussion

Bibliography

Appendix
 CHAPTER 1
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface area
in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful
mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the term includes
assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven processes and
tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and machines which are
related to knitted fabric production.
A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and
system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the
requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends
per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width but in case of
knitted fabric specification GSM, stitch length are mainly considered.
The title of our project work is Analysis of knitted fabric specification and other related
machine specification. There are problem in our industries to produce knitted fabrics of
required G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric thickness is generally
maintained in industries by previous data sheet. For this reason there are problem if any
order comes which didn’t produced in previous.
Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, loop
length selection, machine Diameter selection & machine gauge selection.

We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, loop
length, machine gauge, and machine diameter for the single jersey, Rib and interlock
fabric.
Aims of the project work are the following:

Find out relation between yarn count and GSM.

Find out the logic of selection of stitch length selection.

Selection of machine diameter and machine gauge to get specific width of fabric.

Find out the fabric width.
 CHAPTER 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
GSM:
There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric. i.e. First formula is
Course per inch × Stitch length × 39.37 × 39.37 × Tex
GSM =
1000 × 1000
WPI × CPI × SL(mm)
GSM = x 0.9155
Count(Ne)

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH:

We calculated the number of wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no
of total wales by 10 inch to getting the wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH:

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle.
Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH:

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and
adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in coarse in course length and it is that
which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight. In order to determine
the stitch length, we count 100 no wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on
the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:

We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a
considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and
measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.
The equation we followed is as follow:
n × l × 453.6
Count =
wt × 36 × 840
Where, n= number of yarn in bundle.
L= length of yarn.
Wt= weight of yarn.
MEASUREMENT OF GSM:
GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The
production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy
usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter
is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So
100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM
reading.

Another formula is the following:

Ks × Tex
GSM =
Stitch length (mm)
Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is
calculated and estimated as below:

GSM × Stitch length

Ks =
Tex

Fabric Type Color Value of Ks

Single jersey Average 19.55
Single lacoste Average 22.4
Double lacoste Average 22.75
Polo pique Average 25
Plain interlock Average 39.3
1×1 Rib Light 24.5
1×1 Rib Average 26.5
2×1 Rib Average 28.3
Flat back rib 81
3 Thread fleece 40.92
COMMENT:
It is very convenient to determine the stitch length against the required GSM by using the value
of Ks. We could not determine the value of Ks for other decorative fabric. It requires large time
and industry.

GSM DEPENDS ON:

1. TYPE OF YARN:
The main material for knitting process is yarn. The quality of knitted yarn should be like as
follows:
30/1 Cotton Combed 30/1 Cotton Carded 30/1 poly Cotton
Paramete
rs
Best Acceptable Best Acceptable Best Acceptable
limit limit limit

Uniformit 9-9.5 9.7-10.2 11.5-12.1 12.8-13.5 9.5-9.8 10.4-10.7

y%

Thin (- 0 3-5 16-22 50-60 2-3 7-10

50%)

Thick 7-12 32-43 75-90 250-300 15-20 34-42

(+50%)

Neps 38-47 73-88 140-175 300-380 30-45 48-58

(+200%)

Hairiness 4.0- 4.6-4.9 4.75-5.1 5.5-5.8 4-4.44 4.45-4.8

4.4

Tenacity 21.8- 18.4-18.9 16.7-17.6 16.2-15.4 25.5-24 23.4-22.1

(CN/tex) 22.6

Elongatio 6.7- 6.2-6.4 7.3-7.08 6.6-6.4 14.7-13.7 11.8-11.2

n 6.9
2. YARN COUNT:
The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:
a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.
b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.
c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.
d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.
e) Spandex: 40D, 70D.
f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.
g) Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc.

Other parameters are:

Stitch length

Fabric Structure.

Finishing process.

Depth of shade.

Stitch density.

Machine gauge.

RELATION BETWEEN YARN COUNT, FABRIC TYPE, STITCH LENGTH AND

FINISH GSM:

Fabric Type Yarn count Stitch Finished Finished

length (mm) Color D×G diameter GSM
(inch)

Plain S/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26×24 30 220-230

,, 20s/1 2.98 White 30×24 33.5 200-210

,, 24s/1 2.68 White 30×24 32 175-185
,, 26s/1 2.66 White 30×24 31 160-170

,, 28s/1 2.70 Avg 26×24 25 150-160

,, 30s/1 2.68 Avg 30×24 30 130-140
,, 34s/1 2.40 Avg 26×24 24 125-135
 ,, 40s/1 2.44 Avg 24×24 20 100-110
Single 18s/1 3.00 Avg 30×24 46 245-255
lacost
,, 24s/1 2.64 Avg 30×24 40 210-215

,, 26s/1 2.60 Avg 30×24 36 200-210

,, 30s/1 2.50 Avg 30×24 33 180-190
s
1 × 1 Rib 26 /1 2.50 Avg 41 240

,, 24s/1 2.75 Avg 30×18 64 235

,, 26s/1 2.54 Avg 40×18 40 245

,, 26s/1 2.55 Avg 40×18 47 235

s
,, 26 /1 2.65 Avg 32×18 32 230
s
,, 36 /1 2.65 Avg 32×18 33 170
s
,, 24 /1 2.95 Avg 34×18 32 220
,, 24s/1 2.90 Avg 40×18 38 225
,, 28s/1 2.40 Avg 30×24 38.5 232
2 × 1 Rib 34s/1 2.60 Avg 40×18 23 190
,, 34s/1 2.70 Avg 32×18 20 185
s
1 × 1 lycra 20 /1 +40D 3.30 Avg 36×18 32 320
rib
,, 24s/1 +40D 3.00 Avg 30×18 30 280
,, 26s/1 +40D 2.90 Avg 30×18 30 260
,, 28s/1 +40D 2.80 Avg 30×18 30 250
s
,, 30 /1 +70D 2.60 Avg 32×20 28 260
s
,, 34 /1 +70D 2.44 Avg 30×18 26 240
s
2 × 2 rib 40 /1 2.76 Avg 30×20 35T 160
,, 28s/1 2.87 Avg 34×18 32T 260
,, 26s/1 3.25 Avg 34×18 31T 205
,, 24s/1 3.50 Avg 34×18 31.5T 285
,, 20s/1 3.25 Avg 34×20 55OP 260
s
2 × 2 lycra 20 /1 +40D 3.10 Avg 30×18 18T 390
rib
,, 24s/1 +40D 2.90 Avg 30×18 18T 320
,, 30s/1 +70D 2.90 Avg 240
 ,, 30s/1 +40D 2.98 Avg 240
,, 30s/1 +40D 2.80 Avg 30×18 220
Fleece 26s/1GM + 2.78 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 220
s
24 /1 c
,, 26s/1GM + 2.78 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 220
26s/1 c
,, 26s/1GM + 2.85 + 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 240
s
24 /1 c
,, 26s/1GM + 2.90+ 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 220
20s/1 c
,, 28s/1GM + 2.8 + 1.35 Avg 30×24 32T 235
s
28 /1 c
,, 30s/1GM + 2.8 + 1.36 Avg 30×24 32T 175
26s/1 c

By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data:

FOR SINGLE JERSEY:
Finished GSM Count Finished Diameter

140 30/1 Machine dia = Finished dia

160 26/1 Machine dia +1 = Finished dia

180 24/1 Machine dia + 2 = Finished dia

200 20/1 Machine dia + 3 = Finished dia

220 18/1 Machine dia + 4 = Finished dia

N.B: If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the
normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the
floating fibre and hairy fibre.
For light color, the finished GSM varies 1-2% from grey GSM.

For average color, the finished GSM varies 2-4%

If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but also yarn
tension & take-up roller.
COMMENT (Reference 1):

1. It is very distinct from these tables that there is no proof that these values are true, as
they are not actual or experimental and they have taken these values from the mill and
factory.
2. They have determined the value of count by beesleys balance. We never give the value
of count in fraction but by our method we find that the value of count is most of the
time is fraction.

From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the selection of yarn
count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types, fabric construction. List of
equations are tabulated below:

Name of the fabrics Equations

Single jersey Yarn count = - 0.141 GSM + 50.22
Pique Yarn count = - 0.146 GSM + 57.16
Double lacoste Yarn count = - 0.167 GSM + 64.36
1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.123 GSM + 54.57
Lycra 1 x 1 Rib Yarn count = - 0.119 GSM + 59.12
Lycra 2 x 2 Rib Yarn count = - 0.108 GSM + 56.62
Interlock Yarn count = - 0.206 GSM + 80.56

EQUATIONS FOR GETTING REQUIRED GSM FROM THE SPECIFIC YARN

COUNT:
Fabric Equations

Single jersey GSM = -6.879yarn count + 350.4

Lycra single jersey GSM = -4.9716 yarn count + 354.56
Pique GSM = -6.6737 yarn count + 386.44
1 1 Rib GSM = -7.9731 yarn count + 437.66
Lycra 1 1 Rib GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08
Lycra 2 2 Rib GSM = -9.1216 yarn count + 519.05
Interlock GSM = -4.778 yarn count + 388.41
EQUATION FOR DETERMINING FABRIC WIDTH:
Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space.
=No. of needle X Wales space.
= Π dg X Wales space
Where,
d = Cylinder diameter.
g = Gauge.
FOR CALCULATING YARN DIAMETER:
dα Tex

Tex
d= mm For Cotton
26.7
1
dα
Ne
0.91
d=
Ne
Relation among GSM, stitch length and yarn count can be derived from the following equation:

GSMα
1
(When Yarn count and Stitch length both are variable)
Yarn count × Stitch length
∴ Yarn count × Loop length × G.S.M. = K
Where K is a Constant.
K which can be derived as follows:
CONSTANT AT A GLANCE:
Fabric Constant

Sinlgle jersey plain 12068.509

Double Lacoste 14855.2

1 X 1 Rib 16431.497

2 X 1 Rib 19005.333

Interlock 24013.8

Wales space = 4d; [where d is the yarn diameter]

Minimum stitch length = 14d
FABRIC THICKNESS:
In the fully relaxed state the fabric thickness for double jersey,
t= 4d
For single jersey,
t = 2d

COMMENT (Reference 2):

1. It is understandable that gauge is an important factor for fabric width but actually the
width of fabric is dependent upon the number of needle present in the machine. Often
the number of needle present in the machine is not equal to Π dg . So the equation
should only be like following:

COMMENT (Reference 3):

Different properties were found in Different knit structures according to stitch length, stitch
density that means wales per inch, course per inch.
Shortly they told loose structure that means higher loop length gives less GSM on fabric &
compact structure that means shorter loop length gives high GSM on fabric.

In their project analysis, they observed that single jersey plain structure & 1×1 plain rib
structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is too small. But in single
lacoste & polo-pique structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is high.
Because single lacoste & polo-pique structure are made by combination of knit & tuck loops.
They also analyzed that one knit loop consumes 30% more yarn than tuck loop. So calculated
GSM is higher in single lacoste & polo-pique structure than single jersey plain structure & 1×1
plain rib structure.

In general, the angle of spirality values decreases when the tightness factor values gets higher
that is decrease of loop length in all knitted samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop
can easily find an area to rotate & spirality increases.
The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the
fabrics knitted with open end yarns. This shows the effect of the spirality on twist liveliness.
Fabric shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e.; single jersey, rib, interlock & their
derivatives, yarn composition i.e.; 100% cotton, cotton & polyester & synthetic yarn.
 CHAPTER 3
TERMINOLOGY & DEFINITION
TERMINOLOGY AND DEFINITION OF DIFFERENT KEYWORDS ARE
DISCUSSED BELOW:

WALES PER INCH:

Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important
for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.

COURSES PER INCH:

Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very
important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM.

STITCH LENGTH:
Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle
loop and half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the
adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in course in course length and it is that
which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

YARN COUNT:
Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Yarn count is calculated in two systems:
a. Direct system
b. Indirect system
They are described below:

Direct system:
In this system the count lf yarn express the no. wt. units in one length unit. In direct system
“higher the count, coarser the yarn” This system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute etc
and count calculation formula is the following:
W ×l
Count =
w× L
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.
Indirect system:
In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit weight. In this system
higher the yarn count finer the yarn. It is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc
and the yarn count calculation formula is the following:
L×w
Count =
W ×l
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.

GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.
Fabric area density:
Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,
S ×l ×T
Area density = gm/m2
100
Here, T = Tex,
S = Stitch density,
l = Stitch length.

Fabric width:
Fabric width can be calculated by the following formula:
course length × Stitch length
Fabric width =
Kw
π × d × G × Stitch length
=
Kw

Where, Stitch length is in cm

D = Machine diameter,
G = Machine Gauge and
Kw = 38 (for dry relaxed state)
= 41 (for wet relaxed state)
= 42.2 (for finished relaxed stat
 CHAPTER 4
FABRIC SPECIFICATION
Elements of Specification:
1. GSM.
2. Loop length.
3. Yarn count.
4. Fabric width.

1. G.S.M:
The weight of fabric in gm per square meter is called G.S.M.

FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR REQUIRED G.S.M:

Yarn Count (English count):
Through our project work we manage to find out the following relation between
yarn count and G.S.M: i.e.

GSM α
1
(When Stitch length is same ) ………….(1)
Yarn count

GSM α
1
(When Yarn count is same) ………….(2)
Loop length
From the equation (1) & (2) we get,

GSM α
1
(When Yarn count and Stitch length both are variable)
Yarn count × Stitch length
∴ Yarn count × Loop length × G.S.M. = K

Where K = Constant.
K varies for the single jersey with different gsm, count, and loop length.
CONSTANT FOR SINGLE JERSEY FROM COLLECTED FABRIC (Ref-Appendix):

S/N GSM SL COUNT EQUATION AVERAGE STD CV

DVE
1. 122.488 2.664324 37.777 12328.44
2. 127.038 2.965405 31.6278 11914.8
3. 135.77 2.319347 32.92 10366.43
4. 141.36 3.046935 31.8744 13728.77
5. 144.5 2.698962 30.87 12039.3 12083.96 946.3509 7.831462
6. 148 2.610811 28.8 11128.32
7. 153 2.701087 30 12397.99
8. 155.22 2.881429 27.12405 12131.38
9. 163.715 2.880883 26.97 12720.23

ACTUAL PRACTICING OF CONSTANT VALUE IN THE INDUSTRY:

Type Ne Max Min GS S/L Consta Avg Std CV%

GS GS M (mm) nt
M M K
Singl 20 220 200 220 2.85 12540
e 210 3.00 12600
jerse 200 3.10 12400
y 24 190 160 190 2.70 12312
180 2.85 12312
170 3.00 12240
160 3.15 12096
26 170 150 170 2.75 12155
12047.625 334.9383774 2.780119546
160 2.90 12064
150 3.00 11700
28 155 140 155 2.70 11718
150 2.80 11760
140 2.95 11564
30 150 130 150 2.65 11925
140 2.80 11676
130 3.00 11700

12083.96 − 12047.625
Deflection = × 100
12047.625
= 0.3%
ACTUAL DETERMINATION OF FABRIC GSM AND YARN COUNT FROM THE
COLLECTED FABRIC:

S/N COUNT G.S.M

01. 36.74 116

02. 32.13 134.33

03. 30.87 172.33

04. 37.77 121.33

05. 31.63 139.33

06. 28.8 142.63

07. 27.12 176.67

08. 35.29 154.33

09. 29.99 165.33

10. 26.97 168.33

11. 32.13 134.33

12. 32.92 139.33

13. 25.57 181.67

14. 22.71 138.33

GRAPH SHOWN THE RELATION BETWEEN THE COUNT AND THE GSM:
Yarn Count (y)

By taking two points from the straight line, we can find the following equation:
From (i)
(116,36.74) (181.67,25.57)
( x − 116)11.17
x = GSM , y = Count y= + 36.74
−65.67
x − 116 y − 36.74 = ( x − 116)( −0.17) + 36.74
=
116 − 181.67 36.74 − 25.54 = ( −0.17 x) + 19.72 + 36.74
x − 116 y − 36.74
⇒ = y = 56 − 0.17 x
−65.67 11.17
( y − 36.74)( −65.67)
⇒x= + 116 Example :
11.17
⇒ x = −5.88 y + 216 + 116 Count , y = 30
⇒ x = 332 − 5.88 y GSM = 332 − 5.88 × 30 = 155.6
2. FABRIC WIDTH:
Along the fabric width there presents the wales. The total no. of needle is fixed for the same
cylinder having the equal gauge as well as diameter.
Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space.
=Total no of needle in the machine X Wales space.

The above concepts clarify that Fabric width closely depends on total no. of needle not directly
related to machine diameter or machine gauge.

WALES SPACE:
The space covered by a wale is called wale space for that wale.
Wales space depends on:
a. Yarn diameter.
b. Loop length.
They are described below:

1. YARN DIAMETER:

For English count

1.4

1.2
yarn diameter

0.8

yarn dia
0.6

0.4

0.2

0
0 20 40 60 80

yarn count

From the experiment it is seen that yarn diameter decreases with the increases of yarn
count. The count which are generally used in circular knitting machine in Bangladesh
(20 to 40) the rate of decrease is generally slow than that of below 20 count in which the
rate of increase of yarn count is higher or it increase rapidly.
When the loop length is minimum, the leg of loop comes in close contact with each
other and there is no free space among left, middle and right zone of interloping area.

Left Zone Middle Zone Right Zone

x y z

Interloping Area

Fig.: Impact of yarn diameter on free space in interlooping area

Under the circumstance the wales space will be less than four times of yarn diameter.
dd dd Wales space = d+d+d+d = 4d
When loop length is minm

COMMENT: In case of minimum loop length there is no space left in interloping area.
i.e. stretched due to tension the wales space become less than 4d (d is the yarn diameter)
When loop length is increased the space into the interloping area i.e. the zone a, b & c
are increased as a result wales space becomes wider. It may be upto 5.2d (depending on
the collected data)
ACTUAL VALUE OF RATIO OF WALES SPACE AND DIA OF YARN:

Count Wales Yarn Yarn Ratio Average

space(mm) dia(inch) dia(mm)
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
18 0.889808917 0.008417938 0.213815622 4.161571119
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
18 0.889808917 0.008417938 0.213815622 4.161571119
18 0.808917197 0.008417938 0.213815622 3.78324647
24 0.73027247 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.943799834
24 0.73537927 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.971378851
24 0.73537927 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.971378851
24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336
24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336
24 0.702185067 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.792115223
24 0.723663669 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.908109336 3.97625
24 0.696567587 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.761778304
24 0.674097665 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.640430618
24 0.73027247 0.007290148 0.18516976 3.943799834
30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036
30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036
30 0.692121666 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.178952036
30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165
30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165
30 0.674097665 0.006520507 0.165620869 4.070125165

COMMENT:
It’s clear from the chart that, the ratio of yarn dia to wales space is very near of 4.
So we can say that one wales occupy 4d space, where d is the yarn diameter.

So, from the above chart, we found the relation between the yarn count and the WPI as
follow,

28 × Ne
WPI =
4
TABLE SHOWS THE ACTUAL WPI IN ACCORDANCE TO THE COUNT:

Count Wales Wales WPI Avg Std Cv%

space(mm) space(inch)
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
18 0.889808917 0.035031847 28.54545 30.44848 1.474081 4.841229
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
18 0.889808917 0.035031847 28.54545
18 0.808917197 0.031847134 31.4
24 0.73027247 0.028750885 34.78154
24 0.73537927 0.02895194 34.54
24 0.73537927 0.02895194 34.54
24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918
24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918 35.42579 1.024035 2.890649
24 0.702185067 0.027645081 36.1728
24 0.723663669 0.028490696 35.09918
24 0.696567587 0.027423921 36.46452
24 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68
24 0.73027247 0.028750885 34.78154
30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875
30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875
30 0.692121666 0.027248884 36.69875 37.18937 0.537453 1.445178
30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68
30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68
30 0.674097665 0.026539278 37.68

COMMENT:
From the above chart, we came to the decision that WPI the equation as follows:

28 × Ne
WPI =
4
 CHAPTER 5
MACHINE SPECIFICATION
MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
1. Machine gauge.
2. Machine Diameter.
3. Needle gauge.
They are described below:

1. MACHINE GAUGE:
No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine
gauge for that knitting machine.
A term giving a notational indication of the no. of needles per unit length along a
needle bed or needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit
length of one English inch (25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting
machine.
Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter depends
upon the following:
1. Yarn count
2. Fibre type
3. Yarn twist
4. Yarn finished
General practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in
Bangladesh given below:

TYPICAL SELECTION OF M/C GAUGE FOR DIFFERENT COUNT YARN:

M/C Gauge Ne
18 14.0/1 – 23.5/1
20 18.0/1 – 26.0/1
22 21.5/1 – 29.5/1
24 23.5/1 – 35.5/1
26 26.0/1 – 41.5/1
28 29.5/1 – 47.5/1
30 35.5/1 – 59.0/1
32 41.5/1 – 70.0/1
2. MACHINE DIAMETER:
Machine diameter is mainly diameter of cylinder. It is important for fabric width. Only
diameter does not determine the fabric width. It need helps machine gauge and wales
space which is depend upon yarn count and loop length.

MACHINE DIAMETER SELECTION:

S/N Count Gauge WPI Fabric found from 1 Percentage of

(Ne) inch machine fabric found
perimeter X%
1 18 20 31 0.64516129 64.51612903
2 18 24 31 0.774193548 77.41935484
3 20 20 31.5 0.634920635 63.49206349
4 20 24 31.5 0.761904762 76.19047619
5 22 20 33 0.606060606 60.60606061
6 22 24 33 0.727272727 72.72727273
7 22 28 33 0.848484848 84.84848485
8 24 20 35 0.571428571 57.14285714
9 24 24 35 0.685714286 68.57142857
10 24 28 35 0.8 80
11 26 20 36 0.555555556 55.55555556
12 26 24 36 0.666666667 66.66666667
13 26 28 36 0.777777778 77.77777778
14 28 20 37 0.540540541 54.05405405
15 28 24 37 0.648648649 64.86486486
16 28 28 37 0.756756757 75.67567568
17 30 20 38 0.526315789 52.63157895
18 30 24 38 0.631578947 63.15789474
19 30 28 38 0.736842105 73.68421053
20 32 20 40 0.5 50
21 32 24 40 0.6 60
22 32 28 40 0.7 70
23 34 20 41 0.487804878 48.7804878
24 34 24 41 0.585365854 58.53658537
25 34 28 41 0.682926829 68.29268293
26 36 20 42 0.476190476 47.61904762
27 36 24 42 0.571428571 57.14285714
28 36 28 42 0.666666667 66.66666667
 29 38 20 43 0.465116279 46.51162791
30 38 24 43 0.558139535 55.81395349
31 38 28 43 0.651162791 65.11627907
32 40 20 44 0.454545455 45.45454545
33 40 24 44 0.545454545 54.54545455
34 40 28 44 0.636363636 63.63636364

Fabric dia
So, the machine dia for particular fabric dia is = X 100
X%
X = percentage of fabric found in relation to
The m/c perimeter.

Fabric dia × Ne
So, the relation between the machine dia and the machine dia is = 7 x
M/C Gauge

Again, the relation can be inversely shown that,

Machine dia × M/C Gauge

Fabric dia (Tubular) =
7 × Ne

For example, if the machine dia is 32”, yarn count 24Ne, and the machine gauge is 24
32 × 24
then the fabric dia will be = = 22.4 inch.
7 × 24

GRAPH SHOWN THE RELATION BETWEEN THE COUNT AND THE WPI:
50
WPI
45
40
35
30
25
20 WPI
15
10
5
0
0 10 20 30 40 50

COUNT
FIG: Relation between the yarn count and the wpi.
3. NEEDLE GAUGE:
Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for selection of
machine gauge. Needle gauge is different for the different gauge and different Brand.
Some needle gauge found in industries is given below:

Machine gauge Needle thickness in

(mm)
24 0.52
28 0.41
 CHAPTER 6
RESULT & DICUSSION
From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the
selection of yarn count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types,
fabric construction. List of equations are tabulated below:

The constant for the plain single jersey is as follow:

K (Yarn count X stitch length X GSM) = 12083.96

Relation between the fabric GSM and the yarn count:

if the GSM of the fabric is “x” and the count of yarn is “y”, then the equation for

determining GSM and the Yarn count is as follows:

GSM, x = 332 – 5.88y &

Yarn count(Ne), y = 56 – 0.17x

Machine diameter selection:

Fabric dia × Ne
The relation between the Fabric dia and the Machine dia is = 7 x
M/C Gauge

Again, the relation can be inversely shown that,

Machine dia × M/C Gauge

Fabric dia (Tubular) =
7 × Ne
Bibliography

1. Knitting technology

By – Devid J. Spencer
2. Handbook of Technical Textile

By – Horrocks & Anand

3. Textile Terms & Definitions

By – J E Mclintyre
4. Circular knitting

5. Knitting calculation

6. Reference 1(Project On Analysis of knitted fabric specification and

related machine specification)

7. Reference 2 (Project On Analysis of knitted fabric specification and

related machine specification)

8. Reference 3 (Project On analysis of weft knitted fabric specifications and
properties)
APPENDIX
 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM
S/ NO. NO LENGT NO DEFELECTION
L LENGT NO. OF LENGT OF LENGT OF H OF OF TOTAL TOTAL AVG % OF ACTUAL
N SAMPL H OF COURS AVG H OF WALE AVG H OF WALE AVG EACH YAR LENGT WEIGH COUN COUN GS AVG CACULATE GSM FROM
O E NO FABRIC E CPI CPI FABRIC S WPI WPI YARN S S.L S.L YARN N H T T T M GSM D GSM CAL GSM
UNI UNI UNI UNI UNI
UNIT INCH UNIT T T INCH UNIT T T MM UNIT MM MM INCH T INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %
2.68
775
1 53 53 289 34 289 2
2.71
785 170
2 54 54 289 34 289 6
2.71
785 27 10 270 0.14 28.93
3 52 52 289 34 289 6
2.68
775
4 54 54 289 34 289 2
2.68
775
5 53 53 289 34 289 2 2.69 172.3
1 1 53.1 9 34 30.87 175 144.5 19.23%
2.68 9 3
775
6 53 53 289 34 289 2
2.71
785
7 54 54 289 34 289 6
2.71
785 35 10 350 0.16 32.81
8 52 52 289 34 289 6
2.68
775 172
9 53 53 289 34 289 2
2.71
785
10 53 53 289 34 289 6
2.65
988
1 52 52 372 37 372 6
2.68
1010 120
2 50 50 376 38 376 6
2.65
991
3 50 50 373 37 373 7
2.65
988
4 51 51 372 37 372 6
2.65
991
5 51 51 373 37 373 7 2.66 121.3
2 1 50.9 10 37 34 20 680 0.27 37.78 37.78 127 122.5 (-)0.945%
2.66 4 3
991
6 52 52 372 37 372 4
2.67
996
7 51 51 372 37 372 7
2.65
991
8 50 50 373 37 373 7
2.66
993 117
9 52 52 372 37 372 9
2.66
991
10 50 50 372 37 372 4
 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM
S/ NO. NO LENGT NO DEFELECTION%
L LENGT NO. OF LENGT OF LENGT OF H OF OF TOTAL TOTAL AVG OF ACTUAL
N SAMPL H OF COURS AVG H OF WALE AVG H OF WALE AVG EACH YAR LENGT WEIGH COUN COUN GS AVG CACULATE GSM FROM
O E NO FABRIC E CPI CPI FABRIC S WPI WPI YARN S S.L S.L YARN N H T T T M GSM D GSM CAL GSM

UNI UNI UNI UNI

UNIT INCH UNIT T T INCH UNIT T T MM UNIT MM MM INCH UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %
2.97
1100
1 43 43 370 37 370 3
2.98
1105 139
2 40 40 370 37 370 6
2.97
1100 24 18 432 0.2 32.4
3 40 40 370 37 370 3
2.95
1095
4 40 40 370 37 370 9
2.96
1097
5 39 39 370 37 370 5 2.96 139.3
3 1 40 10 37 31.63 140 127 9.68%
2.95 5 3
1095
6 40 40 370 37 370 9
2.95
1095
7 40 40 370 37 370 9
2.95
1093 24 18 432 0.21 30.86
8 39 39 370 37 370 4
2.96
1097 139
9 40 40 370 37 370 5
2.95
1095
10 39 39 370 37 370 9
2.61
483
1 48 48 185 37 185 1
2.62
485 144
2 49 49 185 37 185 2
2.62
485 12 16 192 0.1 28.8
3 49 49 185 37 185 2
2.62
486
4 49 49 185 37 185 7
2.62
485
5 48 48 48. 185 37 185 2 2.61 142.6
4 1 5 37 28.8 142 148 (-)4.05%
2 2.61 1 7
484
6 47 47 185 37 185 6
2.59
480
7 48 48 185 37 185 5
2.59
480 12 16 192 0.1 28.8
8 49 49 185 37 185 5
2.59
480 142
9 47 47 185 37 185 5
2.60
482
10 48 48 185 37 185 5
 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM
LEN
GTH
LENG LENG LENG OF DEFELECTI
TH NO. TH NO. AV TH NO EAC NO TOTA TOTA ON% OF
s/ OF OF AV OF OF G OF OF H OF L L AVG ACTUAL
L SAMP FABR COUR G FABR WAL WP WP YAR WAL AVG YAR YA LENG WEIG COU COU AVG CACULAT GSM FROM
no LE NO IC SE CPI CPI IC ES I I N ES S.L S.L N RN TH HT NT NT GSM GSM ED GSM CAL GSM
UN UNI UN UN INC UNI
UNIT INCH UNIT IT T INCH UNIT IT IT MM UNIT MM MM H T INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %

1 43 43 370 37 1100 370 2.973

2 40 40 370 37 1105 370 2.986 139

3 40 40 370 37 1100 370 2.973 24 18 432 0.2 32.4

4 40 40 370 37 1095 370 2.959

5 39 39 370 37 1097 370 2.965 2.96 31.6 139.3
3 1 40 10 37 140 127 9.68%
1095 5 3 3
6 40 40 370 37 370 2.959
7 40 40 370 37 1095 370 2.959
8 39 39 370 37 1093 370 2.954 24 18 432 0.21 30.86

9 40 40 370 37 1097 370 2.965 139

10 39 39 370 37 1095 370 2.959

1 48 48 185 37 483 185 2.611
2 49 49 185 37 485 185 2.622 144

3 49 49 185 37 485 185 2.622 12 16 192 0.1 28.8

4 49 49 185 37 486 185 2.627

5 48 48 48. 185 37 485 185 2.622 2.61 142.6
4 1 5 37 28.8 142 148 (-)4.05%
2 484 1 7
6 47 47 185 37 185 2.616
7 48 48 185 37 480 185 2.595
8 49 49 185 37 480 185 2.595 12 16 192 0.1 28.8

9 47 47 185 37 480 185 2.595 142

10 48 48 185 37 482 185 2.605

 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM

S/ NO. NO LENGT NO DEFELECTION

L LENGT NO. OF LENGT OF LENGT OF H OF OF TOTAL TOTAL AVG % OF ACTUAL
N SAMPL H OF COURS AVG H OF WALE AVG H OF WALE AVG EACH YAR LENGT WEIGH COUN COUN GS AVG CACULATE GSM FROM
O E NO FABRIC E CPI CPI FABRIC S WPI WPI YARN S S.L S.L YARN N H T T T M GSM D GSM CAL GSM

UNI UNI UNI UNI

UNIT INCH UNIT T T INCH UNIT T T MM UNIT MM MM INCH UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %
2.08
375
1 42 42 180 36 180 3
2.08
375 113
2 44 44 180 36 180 3
2.02
365 12 10 120 0.05 36
3 43 43 180 36 180 8
2.16
43 43 390
4 180 36 180 7
2.11
380
5 42 42 42. 180 36 180 1 2.09
5 1 5 36 36.75 115 116 80.13 44.77%
6 2.08 7
375
6 42 42 180 36 180 3
2.11
380
7 43 43 180 36 180 1
2.08
375 15 10 150 0.06 37.5
8 43 43 180 36 180 3
2.11
380 120
9 42 42 180 36 180 1
2.11
380
10 42 42 180 36 180 1
2.89
1012
1 46 46 350 35 350 1
2.88 176
1010
2 45 45 350 35 350 6
29 19 551 0.32 25.83
3 48 48 350 35 1008 350 2.88
4 44 44 350 35 1008 350 2.88
5 46 46 350 35 1008 350 2.88
45. 2.88 176.6
6 1 10 35 2.85 27.12 176 155.2 13.82%
6 1000 1 7
6 45 45 350 35 350 7
2.87
1006
7 46 46 350 35 350 4
2.88 36 20 720 0.38 28.42
1010
8 45 45 350 35 350 6
1015 177
9 45 45 350 35 350 2.9
10 46 46 350 35 1008 350 2.88
 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM
DEFELECTIO
NO. NO LENGT NO N% OF
LENGT NO. OF LENGT OF LENGT OF H OF OF TOTAL TOTAL AVG ACTUAL
S/L SAMPL H OF COURS AVG H OF WALE AVG H OF WALE AVG EACH YAR LENGT WEIGH COUN COUN AVG CACULAT GSM FROM
NO E NO FABRIC E CPI CPI FABRIC S WPI WPI YARN S S.L S.L YARN N H T T T GSM GSM ED GSM CAL GSM
UNI
UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT T MM UNIT MM MM INCH UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %
3.02
1110
1 47 47 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110 153
2 47 47 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110
3 46 46 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110
4 47 47 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110
5 48 48 367 37 367 5 3.02 154.3
7 1 47.1 10 37 40 20 800 0.34 35.29 35.29 155 135.6 13.80%
3.02 5 3
1110
6 47 47 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110
7 48 48 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110
8 47 47 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110 155
9 47 47 367 37 367 5
3.02
1110
10 47 47 367 37 367 5
2.70
995
1 51 51 368 37 368 4
2.70
994 166
2 51 51 368 37 368 1
2.70
995
3 51 51 368 37 368 4
2.70
995
4 51 51 368 37 368 4
2.69
992
5 51 51 368 37 368 6 2.70 165.3
8 1 51 10 37 36 20 720 0.36 30 30 165 153 8%
2.69 1 3
993
6 51 51 368 37 368 8
2.70
994
7 51 51 368 37 368 1
2.70
995
8 51 51 368 37 368 4
2.70
994 165
9 51 51 368 37 368 1
2.69
993
10 51 51 368 37 368 8
 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM

LENGT LENGT NO. NO LENGT DEFELECTION%

SAM H OF NO. OF H OF OF LENGT OF H OF NO TOTAL TOTAL AVG OF ACTUAL
S/L PLE FABRI COURS AVG FABRI WALE AVG H OF WALE AVG EACH OF LENGT WEIGH COUN COUN AVG CACULAT GSM FROM CAL
NO NO C E CPI CPI C S WPI WPI YARN S S.L S.L YARN YARN H T T T GSM GSM ED GSM GSM

UNI UNI UNI

UNIT INCH UNIT UNIT T INCH UNIT T T MM UNIT MM MM INCH UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %

1 79 79 290 29 780 290 2.69

2.68
777 217
2 80 80 289 29 289 9
2.68
777 27 12 326 0.19 25.77
3 78 78 289 29 289 9
2.69
786
4 81 81 292 29 292 2
2.69
783
5 82 82 80. 291 29 291 1 2.68 216 216.6
9 1 10 29 25.18 227.7 (-)4.85%
3 2.68 8 7
777
6 79 79 289 29 289 9
7 80 80 290 29 780 290 2.69
2.68
777 28 13 361 0.22 24.6
8 83 83 289 29 289 9
2.68
777 217
9 80 80 289 29 289 9
2.67
777
10 81 81 290 29 290 9
2.87
523
1 46 46 182 36 182 4
2.87
518 168
2 47 47 180 36 180 8
2.86
525 40 12 480 0.27 26.67
3 47 47 183 37 183 9
2.87
524
4 46 46 182 36 182 9
2.87
520
5 47 47 46. 181 36 181 3 2.88 168.3
10 1 5 36 26.97 169 163.7 2.82%
4 2.90 1 3
520
6 46 46 179 36 179 5
2.89
515
7 46 46 178 36 178 3
2.88
516 40 10 400 0.22 27.27
8 47 47 179 36 179 3
2.87
518 168
9 46 46 180 36 180 8
2.87
518
10 46 46 180 36 180 8
 CPI WPI STITCH LENGTH COUNT GSM
S/ NO. NO LENGT NO DEFELECTION%
L LENGT NO. OF LENGT OF LENGT OF H OF OF TOTAL TOTAL AVG OF ACTUAL
N SAMPL H OF COURS AVG H OF WALE AVG H OF WALE AVG EACH YAR LENGT WEIGH COUN COUN GS AVG CACULATE GSM FROM
O E NO FABRIC E CPI CPI FABRIC S WPI WPI YARN S S.L S.L YARN N H T T T M GSM D GSM CAL GSM

UNI UNI UNI UNI

UNIT INCH UNIT T T INCH UNIT T T MM UNIT MM MM INCH UNIT INCH GM NE NE GM GM GM %
3.04
1166
1 43 43 383 38 383 4
3.04
1155 135
2 42 42 379 38 379 7
3.04
1170 20 16 324 0.15 32.4
3 43 43 384 38 384 7
3.04
1155
4 44 44 379 38 379 7
3.04
1167
5 43 43 42. 383 38 383 7 3.04 134.3
1 10 38 32.14 133 141.4 (-)4.97%
7 3.04 7 3
1158
6 42 42 380 38 380 7
3.04
1158
7 43 43 380 38 380 7
3.04
1167 43 10 425 0.2 31.87
8 42 42 383 38 383 7
3.04
1155 135
9 43 43 379 38 379 7
3.04
1170
10 11 42 42 384 38 384 7
2.32
927
1 51 51 398 40 398 9
2.32
927 140
2 53 53 398 40 398 9
2.29
915 35 10 345 0.16 32.34
3 53 53 398 40 398 9
2.29
915
4 52 52 398 40 398 9
2.29
915
5 53 53 52. 398 40 398 9 2.31 139.3
1 10 40 32.92 140 135.8 2.62%
5 2.31 9 3
921
6 53 53 398 40 398 4
2.34
935
7 52 52 398 40 398 9
2.31
921 34 10 335 0.15 33.5
8 53 53 398 40 398 4
2.29
915 138
9 52 52 398 40 398 9
2.36
940
10 12 53 53 398 40 398 2