THE NAMES OF THE PARTS

The illustration shows the various parts of the POLLYMIN T A N K . Reading downwards are the body, the spiral film holder or spool, the lid and the stirring rod for giving the necessary agitation to the film in the developer. This stirring rod can be used to house a thermometer. These are the names used in referring to the parts in the t e x t of this

booklet.
The Polly-Max tank is the same as the Polly-Min except that it is bigger and can take more film or films. Polly tanks are made of polystyrenea more recent and more suitable plastic for developing tanks than the older phenolics. Above all, glass-clear spiral flanges of the film holder are possible, thus making colour film development speedier and easier. But though new materials and new features are incorporated, the main features of Polly tanks are based on the accumulated experience of years of tank manufacture by Johnsons and Neville Brown.

DEVELOPING ROLL & 35 m m . FILMS IN A

POLLY-MIN OR POLLY-MAX ADJUSTABLE T A N K

Since the pictures are formed by a momentary flash of light through the camera lens, it follows that the film must remain in total darkness until it has been safely " f i x e d . " Polly Tanks are completely light-tight when the lid is in position, and, after the film has been loaded into them, all the processing may be performed in broad daylight. A specially designed darkroom for loading the film is, of course, an advantage, but is by no means essential. Any room or cupboard that is perfectly dark will be quite satisfactory, but it is essential to see that not the faintest ray of light is showing round the cracks of the door or window. It is a good practice to shut yourself in your dark-room and to waft for a minute or two until your eyes become accustomed to the darkness before deciding that the room is safe. Minute rays of light creeping in from unsuspected chinks will be quite sufficient to fog the film as it is being loaded. The loading of a film into the tank in total darkness or in a changing bag is not difficult with a little practice, and for this purpose. a practice film is included with all Polly tanks. 3

ADJUSTING THE SPIRAL

The spiral film holders of Polly tanks are adjustable and can be set for various films as follows: Polly-Min Polly-Max. 16 mm. 35 mm. 35 mm. No. 127 or Vest Pocket (4 cm.) No. l 2 7 o r Vest Pocket (4 cm.) No. 116 (6.5 cm.) No. 120 (6 cm.) N o . 120 (6 cm.) The Polly-Min will take a 20-exposure length of 35 mm. film but not a 36-exposure length. The Polly-Max will take 6 ft. of 16 mm., a full 36-exposure length of 35 mm. film or t w o 20-exposure lengths of 35 mm., t w o No. 127 or t w o No. 120, the films being inserted one after the other. A special groove stop prevents them from overlapping. (See next page). Set the spiral to the w i d t h required by pressing the stainless steel spring away from the centre and sliding the t o p flange to the correct position. Release the spring, which 4

w i l l then click into one of the notches on the central tube. This locks the top flange in position so that there is no possibility of it slipping out of adjustment when being handled in the dark. The top flange will still be free to rotate about 3/4" in either direction. This is to facilitate loading.

LOADING THE FILM

This must be carried out in the dark. Remove the lid of the tank and draw out the spiral film holder. (It should be noted here that the spiral film holder must be perfectly dry before inserting a film. If a film has just been developed in the tank wipe every groove of the holder w i t h a dry cloth, otherwise the film may stick when being loaded.) W a r n i n g : Polystyrene, of which Polly tanks are made, will melt if subjected to high temperatures. Do not, therefore, dry in an oven or before a hot fire! Unroll the wrapping paper of the film until you come to the film itself. Some films have a small piece of paper attached to the e n d ; tear this off and t h r o w it away. 5

Loading will be easier if the curled end of the film is straightened by bending it backwards. Hold the spiral film holder in the left hand upside d o w n that is, w i t h the ratchet centre pointing upwards. Insert the end of the film into the f r o n t groove of the spiral and feed it in by pushing the film forward. It will travel in a clockwise direction. R O T O - F E E D Once the film has been pushed into the outer groove until it is half way round the holder, the grip should be changed to that shown lower left. Then rotate the t w o flanges backwards and forwards alternatively, applying light pressure on the edge of the film w i t h either thumb alternatively so as to stop the film slipping backwards. This is an extremely simple operation. A practice film is provided, and the knack will soon be acquired. Make sure that the outer end of the film is fed a full half inch past the mouth of the groove in both top and bottom sections of the spiral, otherwise the film may come out during development.

LOADING T W O FILMS IN THE POLLY-MAX T A N K

It will be noticed that in the flanges of the Polly-Max tank there is a button. This is a groove stop (which is moulded in nylon) and which can be pushed and pulled in and out. W h e n it is out the groove is clear but when it is pushed home the groove in the spiral on the inner side of the flange is stopped. W h e n loading one No. 20, No. 27 or one 20-exposure 35 mm. film, there is no need to do anything about the stops. The grooves are long enough to house the whole length of film before the stops are reached. W h e n loading w i t h 16 mm. film, 36-exposures of 35 mm. film or No. 16 film, pull the stops out till they clear the grooves in both the top and bottom flange. They will not, in this position, foul the tank bottom or lid, nor will they obstruct the film. 7

When it is desired to develop t w o 20-exposure 35 m m . or t w o No. 27 or t w o N o . 20 films at once, set both the stops in the Out position, feed in the first film right to the centre so that it has passed the stops. Then push the stops to the In position and feed in the second film. It cannot overlap the first because of the stops. W h e n loading t w o 20-exposure 35 mm. films it is necessary to cut off those portions of the film which have been used to secure the film to the cassette and camera spools. Those portions do not, in any case, carry an exposure. N o t e . I t will be observed that the film cannot be fed right into the centre by the Roto-Feed method. In most cases it will be found possible to w o r k it into the centre by gripping it lightly as shown lower left and turning the spool with the other hand. In other cases the nature of the film base, backing or the curl which the film has acquired may make it difficult to slide right in to the centre and past the stops. In such cases the following method is recommended: 8

Push the film into the outer grooves until it is half way round the holder. Then arch it as shown (top) and rotate the holder anti-clockwise w i t h the left hand, keeping the main body of the film rolled in the palm of the right hand. The result is that the first six inches of the film instead of being in the outer grooves, is w o r k e d into the innermost groove. Putting a finger on these first six inches now in the innermost groove to stop them slipping back, rotate the spiral in a clockwise direction (lower). It will be found that if the film is kept arched the whole length can be wound on like winding cotton on a reel. If the film already in the centre is not allowed to slip back, it will be found that the whole length can be wound on, occupying the grooves nearest the centre and leaving the grooves outside the stop free to accept the second film. As soon as the first film is past the stops, they must be pushed down to the IN position and the second film can be fed in by the ordinary Roto Feed method. 9

CLOSING THE T A N K
When the film has been fed right home into the spiral grooves of the holder or spool, place it in the body w i t h the ratchet centre downwards and the flange carrying the locking spring upwards. It will be found that the spool can be rotated in a clockwise direction but not anti-clockwise as it is stopped by the ratchet. The ratchet also gives an up-anddown movement which secures even development. Put on the lid, push it downwards and at the same time t u r n it in a clockwise direction so as to engage the bayonet locks all round the top rim of the body. The tank can now be taken into the light.

TEMPERATURE A N D THE STIRRING ROD

It will be noted that the stirring rod is hollow and that the top half is clear. If a " Polly " (Regd.) thermometer is obtained from the dealer who supplied the tank it will be found that it will fit the Polly Tank's stirring rod and that 10

the scale is so positioned that it can be read whilst the stirring rod is in position in the tank (see page 13). After use and between baths the stirring rod should be unscrewed and the thermometer removed for thorough washing of both parts. This is particularly important in the case of colour.

DEVELOPING THE FILM

Having selected and prepared the developing solution according to the instructions given w i t h the developer (see also page 23), measure out the quantity required for the size of film being developed. (For size I 2 0 - I 0 . 5 oz. or 300 c.c. ; 127-8 oz. or 230 c.c. ; 35 mm.-6.5 oz. or 185 c.c. as engraved on base of tank.) The exact temperature of the developer must now be taken, the most suitable temperature being between 65 and 70 F. This is very important, as it controls the duration of development. Having noted the time by y o u r watch or dark-room clock, pour the developer w i t h a continuous flow and as quickly as possible through the hole in the centre of the lid, and insert the stirring rod, hexagonal end first. 11

AGITATION
Thorough and correct agitation of the solution is most important in any spiral developing tank. There is necessarily only a limited amount of developing solution between the coils of film and if this is not kept on the move patches of irregular development may occur through local exhaustion of the developer. On the other hand, continuous movement of the spiral must also be avoided since this would result in streaks of over-development where the turbulence was greatest. This tank is provided w i t h a highly efficient mechanism for agitating the solutions in that the spiral film holder moves up and down as well as round and round. This up and down movement forces the developer through the slots at either end of the film holder and results in very thorough circulation. 12

Immediately after pouring the developer into the tank, t w i s t the stirring rod very briskly in a clockwise direction for ten seconds. This brisk t u r n i n g , coupled with the automatic up and down " j e r k s " produced by the ratchet cam, dislodges any bubbles which may otherwise cling to the surface of the film. Brisk agitation should be repeated for 10 seconds every minute during development. W h i l e this method of agitation has been thoroughly tested and has been found to give excellent results, the user may, by experiment, find another technique that is equally satisfactory, but he must standardise and use the same technique for subsequent films of the same variety, in the same developers at the same temperature. W h e n using a developer that only requires a short developing time or when processing a film at higher temperatures than 75 Fahrenheit, agitate more frequently or even continually but note the actual frequency of agitation for future reference since such frequency is an important factor in the rate of development. 13

FIXING THE FILM

After the necessary time for development has elapsed, the solution (if it is required for further use) can be returned to the measure. Under no circumstances must the lid be removed at this stage. Next, the film should be given a brief wash by filling and emptying the tank twice w i t h clean water. Have ready the same quantity of fixing solution as you had developer and note its temperature. The fixer should, for the best results, be used at the same temperature as the developer. Pour the fixing solution into the tank and rotate the film from time to time during the next 10 or I5 minutes. At the end of this time pour the solution from the tank. It may be stored in a well-stoppered bottle for future use. (Note. N o t more than t w o or three minutes at the longest should be allowed to elapse between pouring out the developer and pouring the fixer.) 14

The developed and fixed film should now be washed thoroughly. Washing is just as important a process as developing and fixing. The developer has the property of blackening those grains of silver that were struck by light when the picture was taken. The hypo (fixer) renders the rest of the silver grains soluble in water, but does not affect the blackened grains. At least 30 minutes thorough washing is necessary in order to remove every trace of fixer and all the soluble silver from the film. Failure to wash the film completely free from hypo will seriously impair the keeping properties of the negative and make such processes as intensification and reduction difficultif not impossible. The spiral film holder should, therefore, be removed from the tank body and immersed in running water. If running water is not available the tank should be filled w i t h clean water, and emptied about ten times, allowing each change of water to remain in the tank for at least three minutes.

15

FILM WASHER
A Polly O u t f i t can be obtained from the dealer who supplied the Polly Tank. This is diagrammatically illustrated on the left. It will be seen that the Polly Washer does ensure really thorough washing by forcing the wash water upwards through the film from bottom to top of the tank. If eight drops of Johnson 326, the wetting agent, are added to the final tank-full of washing water the film will drain and dry more rapidly. After washing the f i l m , the lid of the tank and the spiral film holder can be removed. After washing the f i l m , but before drying, it is a good practice to pass it through an Anti-Scratch solution to prevent the film surface being damaged during drying or handling. To do this fill the tank w i t h dilute Johnson Anti-Scratch solution using the same quantity as developer. Leave for five minutes, after which the film should be given a final wash for three minutes before drying.

16

REMOVING THE FILM

There are t w o ways of removing the film from the spiral. (Do not, by the way, attempt to pull it out from the slot into which it was loaded. Being w e t it will stick to the grooves and will require considerable force to remove in this manner and will inevitably be damaged.) Give the end of the film a slight outward curve (see illustration). This lifts the end of the film out of its groove. By allowing the spiral to revolve between finger and thumb the film can then be rapidly unrolled. The second method is to stand the spiral (right way up) and, holding the lower section down, to remove the upper part. The film will remain standing in the grooves and can be lifted out and clipped up to dry. In either case it is good practice to carry the operation out while holding the spiral under water as the film is then less likely to get out of control and get scratched. Attach a second clip to the lower end of the film to prevent it curling and hang in a room that is fairly warm and as free f r o m dust as possible. 17

PREPARING FOR THE NEXT FILM

After use, the tank should be thoroughly washed and carefully dried. This latter point is important, as otherwise the next film may stick in the guides of the spiral film holder when being loaded, but again remember not to overheat. W h e n washing the tank it is most important to ensure that all traces of hypo fixing solution have been removed from the lid. This could easily be overlooked if it has been removed to facilitate washing the film. Unsuspected deposits of crystallized hypo in the light-traps, could seriously contaminate a 'black-and-white' developer and would wreak havoc with a colour film. Although the pictures used to illustrate this booklet all show the " P o l l y - m i n " Tank in use, the instructions and procedure are exactly the same for the " Polly-max" and the same warning regarding exposure to excessive heat also applies. 18

FILM DEVELOPING GROUPS

Determine the developing group of the film in use from the list below and from the tables on pp. 20 and 21 read off the correct development time according to the developer being employed. A D O X K . B . I 4 35 mm (1), K.B.I7 35 mm (2), K.B.2I 35 mm (3), R.I7 RF(2), R.2I RF (5). AGFA Isopan 17/10 DIN RF (4), Isopan I.S.S. RF (5), Isopan F 35 mm (3). C O R O N E T C o r o c h r o m e RF (4), 888 RF (4). D U F A Y O r t h o RF (4), Pan RF (4), Super 100 RF (5), Super 50 35 mm (5). FERRANIA Panchromatica F.2 35 mm (1), Super Pancro 32 RF (5), Super Pancro 17/10 D I N RF (4), Super Pancro P.3 35 mm (2), Super Pancro S.2 35 mm (5), Ultrachromatica RF (4). 19 GEVAERT Gevachrome RF (5), Gevapan 27 RF and 35 mm (3), Gevapan 30 RF and 35 mm (5), Gevapan 33 RF and 35 mm (6). ILFORD F.P.3 RF and 35 mm (4). H.P.3 RF and 35 mm (6), Pan F. 35 mm (2), Selochrome RF (5). KODAK Panatomic X RF and 35 mm (4), Plus X RF and 35 mm (5), Super XX RF (5), Super XX 35 mm (7), Verichrome RF (5). L U M I E R E A l t i p a n RF (6), Lumipan RF and 35 mm (6), Super Lumichrome RF (5). P E R U T Z P e r g r a n o 35 mm (1), Peromnia RF and 35 mm (4), Peromnia 23 RF and 35 mm (5), Perpantic RF and 35 mm (4), Persenso RF (5). S T A N D A R D O r t h o RF (5), Pan RF (5).

TIME A N D TEMPERATURE TABLES

Azol (I part with 24 parts water) or Universal M.Q. (I part with 15 parts water) or Developer 468 (Stock solution with 10 parts water).

Azol (I part with 40 parts water) or Developer 468 (Stock solution with 15 parts water).

M.Q. Pactum in 16 ounces (450 ccs) water.

Johnson Fine G r a i n Developer

U n i t o l (I ounce w i t h 9 ounces water).

U n i t o l (I ounce w i t h 17 ounces water).

Meritol-Metol

Johnson Super Fine G r a i n Developer

SECOND

EXPOSURE

OF

COLOUR

FILMS

When processing reversal colour films in a Polly tank, the second exposure to light following first development can be carried out w i t h o u t removing the film from the spiral. There is thus no danger of the film being damaged by being handled in a w e t condition and the problem of re-inserting the film into the spiral ceases to exist. To make the second exposure, remove the tank lid and withdraw the holder w i t h the film in position. Turn this over and over and round and round one foot from a 100-watt pearl bulb or 2ft. from a Photoflood lamp for about 2 minutes (or approximately 5 0 % longer than is recommended in the manufacturers' instructions). Do not grip the holder always in the same position, or shadows from the hand may prevent some part of the film from being fully exposed. After exposure, replace the film-holder in the tank and continue processing according to the directions given w i t h the developing chemicals. It is not normally necessary to replace the lid of the tank, providing processing is carried out in artificial light (not fluorescent or daylight). 22

DEVELOP YOUR FILMS W I T H JOHNSON CHEMICALS

One of the best all-round developers to use for your films in the Polly Tanks is J O H N S O N U N I T O L . One ounce of the concentrated solution is diluted w i t h sufficient water to fill the tank (or to cover the spiral flanges when small films are being developed), used once and then discarded. U N I T O L gives clean, bright, fine-grain negatives of excellent enlarging quality. J O H N S O N FINE G R A I N , a developer in powder f o r m , is sold in tins to make 20 oz. The solution has excellent keeping qualities and can be used to process 5 or 6 size 120 roll films. For extra fine grain, on 35 mm. films particularly, J O H N S O N MERITOL-METOL is recommended. A quickly prepared fixing solution can be made up by dissolving 2 ozs. of J O H N S O N A C I D HYPO FIXING powder in 15ozs. of water. If a concentrated solution is preferred, J O H N S O N FIXSOL is available in 20 oz. (570 c.c.) bottles. FIXSOL also contains a hardener. Your dealer stocks a full range of J O H N S O N CHEMICALS. Patents, T r a d e M a r k s and Registered Designs. Numbers of Registered Designs, Patents, Trade Marks or applications pending in the United Kingdom and foreign countries in respect of the Polly range of tanks and accessories can be obtained on application to Neville Brown & Co. Ltd., 77, Newman Street, London, W.1 POLLY TANKS ARE DISTRIBUTED JOINTLY BY JOHNSONS OF H E N D O N LTD A N D NEVILLE B R O W N A N D C O . LTD.

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