Cacao Specialty Crop PDF
Cacao Specialty Crop PDF
Cacao Specialty Crop PDF
net/scps)
Cacao
(Theobroma cacao)
Definitions
cacao
cocoa
cocoa nib
cocoa liquor
cocoa butter
cocoa powder
chocolate
Family
Sterculiaceae
Common names
English: cocoa, cacao. It is appropriate to use cacao to refer to the plant and its cultivation and cocoa to refer to
the beans or the product used to make chocolate.
French: cacaoyer
Mayan: cakaw
Nahuatl: cacahuatl
Samoan, Tongan: koko
Spanish: cacao
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BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION
Left: An extremely wide range of products can be made from cacao, including chocolate, nibs, and baked goods. Middle: A line of
high-quality chocolate products can distinguish a farm and open doors to crossover products with other farm crops and agritourism.
Right: Raw cocoa beans, ready for value-added processing.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Left to right: Flowers, young leaves and pod, seeds within whitish pulp inside pod, and seed with testa and pulp removed.
Criollo
This group is genetically narrow and is believed to have been
domesticated by the Mayan civilization. The seeds (beans)
tend to be round in profile and contain white or pale purple
cotyledons. Young seedlings can be identified by the presence of green cotyledons and by leaf stems (petioles) with a
horizontally opposed orientation. Although rare Forastero
trees may have white seeds, several other unusual traits can
be used to identify trees of Criollo ancestry. Notable characters include a unique growth habit that frequently lacks the
usual whorl of five branches (jorquette) and consists entirely
of plagiotropic stems with occasional bi- and trifurcating
branches. Fruits typically have a soft thin husk with a textured surface and usually have some degree of red pigmentation. Many Criollo trees in Hawaii have pods that when
mature have a deep red color with yellow grooves. Criollo
trees exhibit symptoms of inbreeding depression and have a
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Left: Young Criollo seedlings can be identified by green cotyledons (not shown here) and by leaf stems (petioles) with a horizontally
opposed orientation. Right: Many Criollo trees in Hawaii have pods that have a deep red color with yellow grooves when mature.
history of low vigor, poor productivity, as well as susceptibility to disease, insects, and stress. Until the mid-eighteenth
century, Criollo was the most commonly cultivated type
of cacao but the vast majority of trees have been replaced
by more vigorous and hardy trees of hybrid or Forastero
ancestry. Chocolate made from Criollo is light in color and
has a subtle or delicate taste that is low in basic chocolate
flavor. Criollo beans often sold at higher prices, which can
somewhat offset their lower yield. Criollo may be translated as native or first grown in Spanish-speaking countries
of the Americas. Therefore it should be noted that so called
Criollo cacao in many countries may not have the typical
genetic profile of pure Criollo.
Forastero
In contrast to Criollo, Forastero means foreigner in
Spanish. It refers to any trees that are not Criollo or a hybrid thereof and that usually produce deep purple seeds.
The term Forastero encompasses a wide range of distinct
populations with unique characteristics and is not a meaningful descriptive term. Because of the high genetic variability within this group, Forastero types exhibit greater
variability in tree and fruit morphology and are generally
more vigorous and less susceptible to disease and pests than
Criollo trees. Several landraces are particularly well known.
The Amelonado type is widely grown throughout western
Africa and produces the majority of bulk cacao beans. Although Forastero beans are said to produce chocolate that
is rich in chocolate flavor but low in complex or fruity flavor
notes, there are several well known exceptions. The Nacional cultivar from Ecuador has long been renowned for its
fine flavor. Also, cocoa produced from Waialua Estate in
Hawaii has predominantly Forastero ancestry, yet has received several reviews praising its fruity and complex flavor
profile.
Trinitario and other hybrids
In the strict sense, Trinitario refers to clones, or the progenies, of hybrids originally produced in Trinidad between
Criollo and Forastero trees that originated in the lower
Amazon River basin. However, many modern cacao plantings around the world, including those in Hawaii, are comprised of hybrids of mixed ancestry and do not fit into the
traditional categories of Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario.
Which is the best variety for any given agroecosystem in
Hawaii is unknown. Research is currently being undertaken by the University of Hawaii in statewide field tests of
replicated, grafted ten-selection plantings that represent a
wide range of cacao germplasm.
DISTRIBUTION
Native range
The genus Theobroma is native to the tropical rainforests of
South America and the primary center of diversity is in the
upper Amazon region of Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Venezuela,
and Colombia. Its use and cultivation spread to Central
America as far north as the Yucatan peninsula in pre-Colombian times.
Current distribution worldwide
Cacao is distributed 18N and 15S of the equator. After the
arrival of the Europeans, the cultivation of cacao spread to
the Caribbean islands, Asia, and Africa. It is currently grown
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
Rainfall pattern
Mean annual
temperature
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Soils
Cacao can be grown in a wide variety of soil. Soils with deep
profile (1.5 m or 5 ft), permeable, clayey sand (sand 50%,
clay 3040%, silt 12%), good water holding capacity, fairly
Left: A chupon is a vertical growing stem such as these young shoots from the base of a tree. Middle: A jorquette is the point where
lateral branches grow from a chupon. Right: Jorquette on an older tree.
to the farmers than non-shade cacao plantings. Recent studies (Rolim and Chiarello 2005) from Brazil have shown that
cabruca forests are not only less diverse and less dense than
secondary or primary forests of the region, but also, and
more importantly, their natural succession and gap dynamics are being severely impaired. As a consequence, cabruca
systems present a structure where tree species of late successional phases are becoming increasingly rare while pioneers
and early secondary species are becoming dominant. It is
pointed out that if current management practices of thinning and clearing of native trees are not improved, the longterm survival of these forests is questionable and their role in
maintaining biodiversity in the long run is limited. Studies
in Malaysia have shown that soil erosion and runoff, a problem in tropical ecosystems can be reduced by intercropping
with the nitrogen-fixing shade tree Gliricidia sepium.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Top left: Young planting of cacao with banana, papaya (Carica papaya), squash (Cucurbita sp.), Indian almond (Terminalia catappa),
noni (Morinda citrifolia), and other crops in Samoa. Top right: Mature stand of cacao growing in a diverse system with fruit and timber trees in Samoa. Middle left: Cacao growing together with coffee (Coffea arabica), macadamia nut (Macadamia integrifolia), and
coconut in Kona, Hawaii. Middle right: Young cacao trees interplanted with banana (Musa sp.) in Hmkua, Hawaii. Bottom left:
Polyculture of cacao, banana, and pineapple in Kona, Hawaii. The latter two crops can provide early yields while the cacao trees come
into bearing. Bottom right: Cacao and banana growing under the high-value timber tree Cordia alliodora in Panama.
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Top left: Four-month-old seedling transplanted (left) and seedling 5 weeks after direct-seeding (right). Top right: Newly grafted seedling. Bottom left: Container-grown seedlings for sale at 4-leaf stage. Bottom right: Hawaii Statewide Cacao Trial planting using 90
cm (36 in) wide woven black ground cover cloth, with 90 cm 10 cm (36 in 4 in) tree tubes/shelters spaced 3 m 3 m (10 ft 10 ft)
with rows staggered 1.5 m (5 ft), and irrigated with 3.8 liter/hr (1 gallon/hr) drippers.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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CULTIVATION
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during the life time of the crop. Commercial N-P-K fertilizer plus micronutrients (Fe, Zn, B) is applied at a rate of
about 500 kg/ha/yr (310 lb/ac/yr), depending on the soil
characteristics. A target for a producing orchard in Hawaii
is 150 kg/ha N, 75 kg/ha P, and 150 kg/ha K.
In addition, integrated pest management (IPM) practices
are also recommended to reduce losses due to pest and diseases. IPM may or may not include use of chemical pesticides. While adequate rainfall is essential for good yields,
waterlogging should be avoided by ensuring proper drainage.
DISADVANTAGES
When production levels are low, as they generally are in the
Pacific islands relative to other regions, marketing raw cacao beans for the commodity market may not be sustainable.
Unless local consumption is high, unique regional flavor
characteristics are developed, or there are possibilities for
developing specialty markets, long-term economic viability
of the crop as a dependable sole cash crop is debatable. To
avoid the problems mentioned above, intercropping with
other cash crops such as fruit trees can be recommended.
Pests and diseases may be another limitation. If invasive
pests or diseases are introduced, losses may be too high for
the crop to be sustainable. Unless the farmers are aware of
good farming practices and prepared to meet challenges,
long-term sustainability of cacao as a sole cash crop may be
difficult.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION
Fermentation
In addition to the varietal differences, fermentation of cocoa beans is an important step for obtaining proper flavors.
The method of fermentation varies depending on local tradition and amount of beans fermented. The fermentation
infrastructure can be established at a household level (small
boxes or baskets) or at a community level (large boxes). The
latter needs better organization and leadership capabilities.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Common pests and diseases of cacao. Top left: Black pod caused by the fungus Phytophthora sp. Top center: Chinese rose beetle
damage to leaves. Top right: Anthracnose fungal spots. Bottom left: Rats can cause considerable damage to pods. Bottom center:
Small, black aborted fruit together with healthy red pods. Bottom right (upper): A symptom of black twig borer attack is whitish
exudate on stem below or covering the entry hole. Bottom right (lower): poddamage caused bythe cocoa pod borer.
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Top left: Inexpensive materials for fermenting a small quantity of beans. Top right: Fermentation in a temperature-controlled environment. Bottom left: Freshly cut seed prior to fermentation, note white embryo. Bottom center: Freshly cut seed after 6 days of
fermentation, note embryo has darkened and presence of brown to purple liquid. Bottom right: Freshly cut seed after drying to 6%
moisture content.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Value-added processing
Small-scale chocolate processing
Bittenbender and Kling (2009) present an annotated pictorial of harvesting, pod cracking, fermenting, drying, roasting,
cracking, winnowing, and chocolate making for small-scale
Specialty Crops for Pacific Island Agroforestry (http://agroforestry.net/scps)
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Top left: Roasting nibs in home coffee roaster. Top right: Hand-cranked hop crusher does a good job of cracking the roasted seed.
Middle left: Nibs after cracking. Middle center: The shell and nibs must be separated before the nibs are ground into cocoa liquor. A
hair dryer on a cool setting can be used to winnow the shell from the nib. Middle right: For larger amounts, a vacuum cleaner system such as this can provide an airflow that carries the shell into one bucket (orange), while depositing the nibs into another bucket
(white). Bottom left: A ChampionTM juicer produces fine cocoa liquor in the left bowl and chunky liquor in the right. The right bowl
contents are reground until all is in the left bowl. Bottom right: Cocoa liquor can made directly in the melanger (wet grinder) before
the other ingredients for chocolate are added.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Top left: Cocoa liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, and other ingredients are combined in the melanger. Top right: After 24 hours in the melanger, the chocolate has become sufficiently smooth. Middle left: Cooling the chocolate to 45.5C (114F) prior to tempering. Middle
right: Tempering on a granite slab to remove heat from the molten chocolate while working it and cause desirable crystals to form.
Bottom left: Finishing the tempering in a bowl. Bottom center: Pouring chocolate into forms, in this case with a macadamia nut in
each candy mold. Bottom right: After a slow cooling process, the chocolates easily release from the form.
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Medium scale roasting and conching equipment can be used for chocolate processing at a community level, such in this facility in
Kona, Hawaii.
Recommended labeling
The labeling requirements for shipping raw beans or bulk
cocoa are far less important than labeling of the chocolate.
Labels should include contact information for the maker,
type of chocolate, and ingredients. Location of origin labeling is a new trend in marketing finished products and single
origin chocolates are being sold at higher prices. However,
farmers do not benefit significantly from the extra proceeds
unless sold under certain labels (including fair trade, ecofriendly, and organic).
New standards require nutritional labeling of the final product, mainly the caloric value, sugar, and fat content (saturated and unsaturated fats) per serving.
There are no special Hawaii standards for chocolate. In order to use the Made in Hawaii descriptor, at least 51% of
value of the product must be added in Hawaii.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Hawaii has a high-end chocolate confection industry, including chocolate covered macadamia nuts and roasted coffee beans, as well as truffles. Most Hawaii-grown cacao is
sold as dry beans to hobbyist and niche chocolate makers
and as roasted nibs.
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Adding value
As mentioned earlier, commercial products other than selling of raw beans, are not a simple undertaking for small
family farms, and require specialized skills and equipment.
Nutrition
New findings about the benefits of consuming cocoa drinks
are encouraging. Studies of the consumption habits of Kuna
Indians in San Blas, Panama is a good example. A locally
brewed cocoa drink rich in phytochemicals known as flavanols has been linked to a better blood chemistry of the
islanders than their counterparts in the mainland. New
clinical trials with human subjects consuming chocolate
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The Hawaii Department of Agriculture does not collect information on cacao production. Bittenbender estimates the
average Hawaii cacao farm size is 0.40.8 ha (12 ac); the
largest mature orchard is 7 ha (18 ac).
The tradition of consuming homemade cocoa is prevalent throughout Samoa. The simple processing method used there involves
roasting the dried beans over a fire and pounding them into a thick paste, which, mixed with sugar and hot water is served as koko
Samoa, Samoan hot cocoa.
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Local markets
If the local demand for chocolate products is high, then good
quality cacao products have market potential locally. Therefore, local consumption of cocoa products can be encouraged by introducing new specialty products. Mentioning
documented health benefits, unique flavor or quality characteristics, or regionally identified products can strengthen
market position.
Export markets
The cost of temperature-controlled transportation is a factor
that may prevent reliable long distance chocolate products,
especially through standard air services. A range of other
cacao-based products that are not temperature sensitive
may be more feasible to ship.
Specialty markets
Although demand for single origin, organic, eco-friendly, or
fair trade products is still small, such markets are expanding. Attempts to market products to consumers in Japan and
Oceania should also be explored. As pests and diseases are
not an issue yet in the Pacific islands, organic cocoa from
Pacific islands is feasible.
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MARKETS
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YIELDS
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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Hawaii farmers are selling beans to small chocolate companies and to hobbyists, as well as processed products to
farmers markets, gourmet shops, and roadside or farm stalls.
Suitcase exports by tourists are as important for chocolate
as they are for such crops as macadamia nuts and coffee in
Hawaii.
Branding possibilities
As mentioned above, single origin, organic, eco-friendly,
and fair trade are some of the branding possibilities that
countries in the Pacific regions should explore. Fermentation of cocoa beans to obtain unique flavors or introduce
high-flavor varieties are strategies that could be adopted to
differentiate a regional line of products. As tourism is an
important source of revenue, products catering to tourists
should be commercialized.
Potential for Internet sales
Internet sales can be explored, however, this would need
a strong customer base. Also, shipping chocolate products
from tropical locations could pose logistical challenges to
maintaining product quality. When even short periods of
high temperatures could spoil the product (e.g., chocolate),
other non-spoiling types of products should be considered
for export (e.g., nibs, powder, other products containing cocoa). There may also be a market for dry beans from hobbyists who process their own chocolate products.
EXAMPLE SUCCESSES
Waialua Estate Cacao Farm, Waialua, Oahu
Waialua Estate Cacao Farm cultivates about 8 ha (20 ac) of
cacao on former sugarcane land on Oahus North Shore.
The low elevation field just above sea level was chosen because it is protected from buffeting trade winds and lies near
a body of water (Kii Kii stream), which helps maintain humidity in what is typically a very dry area (average annual
rainfall 230 mm or 9 in). The farm was planted in 1996 as
part of a diversified agriculture program following closure
of Waialua Sugar Company. Michael Conway brought previous experiences of growing cacao on Hawaii Island in the
1980s to the operation. The project was leased out and eventually abandoned in 2001 but the field was rehabilitated and
brought into production again in 2004.
Michael Conway
ity. They believe such a facility could bring down the cost of
production compared with shipping their cacao to the U.S.
mainland, then back to Hawaii. Their expansion scenario
includes a growers program modeled after the Kona coffee
industry, as this would be the main driver in producing a
reasonably affordable product together with a manufacturing facility in Hawaii. Waialua Estate also believes it is important to maintain the high quality of chocolate by all producers throughout the state so that everyone benefits from
an exceptional regional reputation.
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Top: Regular tours are given by the Coopers at their farm and
factory in Kona, Hawaii. Bottom: Wide range of products
made at the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory.
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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ECONOMIC ANALYSIS
Cacao can be sold in any of three unprocessed forms: pods,
wet beans, or dry beans. From the farmers point of view,
Specialty Crops for Pacific Island Agroforestry (http://agroforestry.net/scps)
FURTHER RESEARCH
Potential for crop improvement
Adopting new high yielding and flavorful varieties included
in the Hawaii Statewide Cacao Trial or even propagating
the most outstanding seedlings in existing orchards should
be explored. Methods to rehabilitate old farms or replace
low yielding trees should be initiated as soon as possible.
Techniques exist to shorten the process by side-grafting on
older trees or air-layering large branches from high yielding
and quality trees.
Improving potential for family or community
farming
Community farming depends on individual farm size and
organizing farmers into associations. Community processing centers are a focal point for organizing farmers, as this
would serve to increase quantity of commercial cocoa available and also improve the quality by processing the beans
uniformly. This is key for cocoa importers or manufacturers
who buy raw cacao for processing.
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Genetic resources
Cacao clonal materials are available in Hawaii from the
USDA cacao germplasm collection in Hilo or quarantine
stations at Reading University in the United Kingdom. Importing materials from Asian countries or Africa is not recommended due to the presence of invasive pests and diseases. Setting up a substation in one of the Pacific islands to
receive the materials and graft them to rootstocks is the first
step. Clonal gardens are also needed to facilitate the distribution of planting materials.
Wood, G.A.R., and R.A. Lass. 1985. Cocoa. Longman, London & New York.
OTHER RESOURCES
Internet
Open Directory page for cacao: http://www.dmoz.org/Science/Biology/Flora_and_Fauna/Plantae/Magnoliophyta/Magnoliopsida/Sterculiaceae/Theobroma
The Chocolate Life: http://www.thechocolatelife.com
Chocolate Alchemy: http://www.chocolatealchemy.com
World Cocoa Foundation scientific research and web site library: http://www.worldcocoafoundation.org
Farm and Forestry Production and Marketing Profile for Cacao by Prakash Hebbar, H.C. Bittenbender, and Daniel ODoherty
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