Novel Approaches in Herbal Cosmetics
Novel Approaches in Herbal Cosmetics
Novel Approaches in Herbal Cosmetics
REV I EInc
W ARTICLE
Blackwell Publishing
Summary
Nutracosmetics are an emerging class of health and beauty aid products that combine
the benefits of nutracosmetical ingredients with the elegance, skin feel, and delivery systems
of cosmetics. Herbs and spices have been used in maintaining and enhancing human beauty
because herbs have many beneficial properties, such as sunscreen, antiaging, moisturizing,
antioxidant, anticellulite, and antimicrobial effects. As compared with synthetic cosmetic
products, herbal products are mild, biodegradable, and have low toxicity profile. To enhance
these properties, research is being done in the development of newer approaches, which
could improve both the aesthetic appeal and performance of a cosmetic product. In this
respect, the approaches studied and discussed include liposomes, phytosomes, transferosomes,
nanoemulsions, nanoparticles, microemulsions, nanocrystals, and cubosomes.
Keywords: herbal cosmetics, liposomes, nanoemulsions, nanoparticles, phytosomes
Introduction
The term cosmetics has multidisciplinary applications
and is defined by various legislations in different ways. On
cumulative study, we can say that traditionally, cosmetics
were the substances applied to the human body for cleansing,
beautifying, perfuming, or changing the appearance (except
soap) and must not cause damage to human health. But
the latest trend is to combine clinically proven ingredients
with patented delivery systems and the aesthetics of fine
cosmetics. Cosmeceutical products are those poised on the
gap between cosmetic products that simply cleanse and
beautify and pharmaceuticals that cure and heal.1
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetics formulated with pharmaceutical type of ingredients. The products referred to
as cosmeceuticals include (i) beauty supplements like
dietary supplements (capsules, tinctures); (ii) active cosmetics,
which contain active ingredients; (iii) bioactive cosmetics,
which contain bioactive ingredients; (iv) performance
Correspondence: Dr. Swarnlata Saraf, Institute of Pharmacy,
Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur, Chattisgarh, India 492001.
E-mail: [email protected]
Accepted for publication February 9, 2008
89
Herbal ingredients
Action
Antioxidant and
photoprotective
effect
36
79
Antiaging
Moisturizer
Astringent
Arnica, cucumber
Anti-irritant and
anti-inflammatory
References
10,11
12
4
Examples of phytoconstituents
Nature
Phytosterols
Volatile oils
Carbohydrates
Glycosides
Tannins
Lipids
Polyphenols
Vitamins
Lipophilic
Lipophilic
Hydrophilic
Lipophilic
Lipophilic
Lipophilic
Hydrophilic
Hydrophilic
Lipophilic
Hydrophilic
Novel approaches
Commonly used cosmetics have low affinity to the skin
and have little percutaneous absorption. The conventional
90
Nanoparticles
Multiple emulsions
91
Figure 1 Schematic views of newer cosmetic formulations: (a) microemulsion, (b) liposome, (c) nanoemulsion, and (d) biopolymeric
nanoparticle (with shell core structure).26
Phytosomes
Transferosomes
92
Nanodelivery systems
Nanoparticles
Nanoparticles are very stable and have a high affinity to
the stratum corneum, hence producing high bioavailability
Multiple nanoemulsions
They are in the nano range and allow the application of
several incompatible substances at the same time.
Vitamin E and coenzyme Q10 form a dark complex when
mixed together; its double nanoemulsion can be
successfully prepared for the cosmetic purpose.41
Nanocrystals
Nanocrystal technology is an attrition process wherein
large micron size crystals are media milled in a water-based
stabilizer solution. The process generates physically
stable dispersions consisting of nanometer-sized drug
crystals.23 Such systems can be utilized for development
of cosmetic formulation of flavonoids, sunscreens,
nutrient materials, bioactives, etc.
Cubosomes
93
Effect
Active ingredients
Liposomes
Phytosome
Liposphere
Nanoparticle
Nanocapsules
Pearlescent beads
Nanosomes
Whitening
Antioxidant
Antioxidant
Antiacne
Sunscreen
Moisturizing
Antiaging, anti-irritant
2% Citrus extracts
Silybin extracts
Sunflower, vitamin E and A, agar white
Vitamin E
Vitamins
Mineral oil, aloe vera, gelatin, red
Ginseng, alpha bisabolol vitamin A and E
Marketed products
Some of the approaches discussed have been marketed,
and are listed in Table 4 (www.lipochemicals.com).
Conclusion
After a detailed review of various approaches used for
cosmetics, it can be said that numerous studies have been
done by using synthetic chemicals as cosmetic product.
For that, various approaches have also been successfully
researched, which could have better skin hydration, skin
elasticity, and skin entrapment. But very few studies have
been done with herbal extracts, which have been proven
for their cosmetic value. Thus, further research should be
done for the development of novel delivery systems for
herbal extracts that have cosmetic value.
Acknowledgment
One of the authors wishes to thank All India Council for
Technical Education (AICTE) (Research Promotion Scheme)
and University Grants Commission (UGC) (Major project),
New Delhi for financial support for this work.
References
1 Kaur IP, Agrawal R. Nanotechnology: a new paradigm in
cosmeceuticals. Recent Patents Drug Deliv Formulation 2007;
1: 171 82.
94
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
95