Kashmir

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The document discusses the culinary traditions and dishes of Kashmir, with a focus on the formal Wazwan meal which involves many courses and is an important part of Kashmiri hospitality and celebration.

A Wazwan is Kashmir's most formal meal - it is a ritual serving of all the food in the house to guests. It is a multi-course affair that involves days of planning and cooking different aromatic dishes.

Some dishes served at a Wazwan include Methi, Tabakmaaz, Roganjosh, Rista, various kababs and vegetable preparations. Saffron pilaf is also a popular item. The meal concludes with Gushtaba and dessert of phirni.

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The Authors
S. S. Kaul Kilam and Shyam Rani Kilam
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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First Edition, August 2002
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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Contents........................................................................
..............................................................v
1 Introduction..................................................................
....................................................1-2
2 A Kashmiri Kitchen ...........................................................
..............................................2-4
3 Service and Mode of Eating ...................................................
..........................................3-7
4 Traditions in the Eating Habits of Kashmiri Pandits ..........................
...............................4-9
5 Spices and Condiments ........................................................
..........................................5-11
6 Wazwan .......................................................................
..................................................6-13
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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There is no life without Food. Out of the greatest urges of life, 'Hunger' const
itutes the main urge. Hindus
give a place of Divinity to'Hunger'.Ya Devi Sarvbhuteshu Kshuadha Rupena Samsthe
ta Namastasyai
Namastasyai Namastasyai Namonamah-Salutations to Divine Mother Who resideth in a
ll beings as
'Hunger'.
In Islam Razaq -the Provider of Food, is one of the qualifying names of Almighty
God.
In almost all religions, before partaking of food or drink, its consecration, by
offering it to God, Deities,
etc., is done in the form of Ahuti, Qurban, Sadaqa, Nazar, Feeding of Poor, Inva
lids and Lepers etc.,
and thus emphasizing the sanctity and essentiality of these practices. Even feed
ing of animals, birds and
insects etc. -Bhuta Yagna -is a daily routine for some, or is performed on auspi
cious occasions.
The 'Sense of Taste', by means of 'Taste Buds', discriminates the six tastes (Sh
athras)-Sweet (Madhura),
Saltish, (Lavana), Sour (Amla), Astringent (Kashaya), Bitter (Tikta), and Hot (K
atu),-while the 'Sense
of Smell', actually 'relishes' the innumerable flavours of food products etc., t
hrough the agency of 'Smell
Buds'. Of all the senses these two are the great ' Weaknesses ' of living beings
. From these 'Pleasant
weaknesses', has emerged thc 'Art of Culinary Preparations', in order to make fo
od appetizing and also
tickle and gratify ourpalates, and thus satisfy the "Great Urge".
Thus feeding forms the main instrument of social entertainment and the best form
of expression of love
and regard. To win the love and favour of her to-be-husband, the mother of the t
o-be-bride, instructs her
to pay the greatest attention to the proper preparation and presentation of his
meals. Even the Shastras
emphasize this 'sacred act'.

Kashmiris are hospitable by nature. They enjoy social life and mutual entertainm
ent. This has been one
main cause of the development of their culinary art. Different types of menus we
re also inspired by the
cuisines of different rulers and visitors, who came in the past from Persia, Afg
hanistan and otherplaces.
Mugals especially had a great influence on the cooking of Meat Dishes and differ
ent Pulavs. Emperors
Jehangir and Shahjehan, with their lovely queens, their courtiers and kith and k
in, made Kashmir their
health resort and a place of sport, enjoyment, eating and drinking. Shahjehan us
ed to visit Kashmir every
summer and called it a Paradise on Earth. Jehangir's last wish, at his death, wa
s 'Kashmir and Nothing
else'.
Its salubrious climate, unrivalled and picturesque natural scenery, its invigora
ting, digestive, sweet and
crystal-clear waters of springs and abounding streams, its beautiful lakes, maje
stic Pine and Deodar
forests, and snow capped mountains, its breezy summers, flaming and blazing colo
urful and breathtaking
autumns, the cool and calm grandeur of its winter snows, followed by charming fl
ower-laden fragrant
springs, all have made Kashmir a gourmet's heaven. Here amongst these blessing o
f Mother Nature,
enjoying good and delicious spicy food, is a delighting desire of men, women and
children alike.
Outdoor picnics, luncheons and dinners, in big and small comfortable boats, (Hou
se Boats, Dungas and
Shikara.), plying on the famous Dal lake, are common. Parties of people of every
class are seen enjoying
hearty meals, Qehva, Shier Chay, cookies and sweets, according to their means. T
he spicy aroma of
food, being cooked in the small kitchens, provided in the bigger boats, permeate
s the air. Strains of
soothing Sufiyana music to the, accompanimcnt of Sitar, Saz, and Dukra (Tabla),
or sound of exciting
choral Chhakri-lyrical songs, with Nuot, Tumbaknar and Roani beating time and Sa
rangi playing to
the tune, come from some of the boats, all heading slowly towards the 'Mughal' a
nd other gardens,
'Chinar' groves, Shrines and springs situated here and there, on or near the sho
res of the lake. Fields of
lotuses and water-lilies bloom on the outskirts of the lake, and the surrounding
hills are mirrored in its
clear water.
The eyes feast on similar cheerful boating scenes on the 'Manasbal', 'Anchar' an
d 'Wullar' lakes. Wullar is
perhaps the largest fresh-water lake of Asia. Sweet damsels steering at one end
of tiny and light boats,
with fishermen holding aiming spears in their right hands, and standing with eye
s fixed on the water, at
the other end of the boats, ready to strike at an underwater swimming fish, are
lovely sights seen here and
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


there. The alert and almost naked bodies of these fishermen, along with the boat
s, and the paddling
damsels, are clearly reflected on the calm surface of the lake. These constitute
picturesque scenes for a
Camera-man especially. The fishermen, now and then, bring their boats close to t
he boats of the
excursionists to sell their fresh catch, which forms a welcome addition to the m
enus of these holidaying
people. Fresh Fruits, Vegetables, Lotus Roots (Nadier) and Lotus-seed tori (Pamb
alokhar), or even
groceries, are vended by mobile shops in boats (Shikaras).
Outings are usual to hundreds of other scenic places, spread all over the valley
. These places are mostly
maintained by Government and Public Bodies. These well-kept places include Publi
c gardens, with
blooming colourful beds of flowers of the season, lush green lawns and beautiful
cascades. Some have
fountains playing therein and also have sheltered picnic spots. Between mountain
s or hills there are small
beautiful valleys, meadows and glens, through which clearice-cold rivers and str
eams rush, playing music
on boulder laden beds. Fishing of Brown and Rainbow Trout and also Mahasol, is a
n additional attraction
for excursion to these places.
Almond orchards burst out into ravishing profusion of pink blooms early in the s
pring, even before the
foliage reappears on their branches, denuded in the previous winter. These turn
into eagerly-awaited
picnic spots. In autumn the late-night full-moon dinner-parties are held by many
people around the
blooming, fragrant 'Saffron' fields of Pampor. Even in very cold winter, dinners
, with Sufiyana and other
musical entertainments are held in Hammam halls.
The 'common factor' of all these pleasure trips, is to enjoy good and special fo
od, off the routine, in the
sweet company of family members, friends, kith and kin in these beautiful surrou
ndings. In fact food is an
integral part of every Kashmiri conversation.
Kashmir is also a valley of fruits. Fruit trees, growing on higher altitudes, an
d their orchards, are found
every where. Hundreds of varieties of delicious, both sweet and tart Apples, jui
cy Pears, including famous
Nakh and Bagogasha varieties, luscious Apricots, Plums, Peaches and Cherries, ar
e produced in
abundance. Many kinds of Cherries, along with very good varities of Walnuts and
Almonds are a
speciality of Kashmir. Apart from being a great tourist attraction, for Kashmir,
fruits are a major item of
export and a source of income of the State.
Among other fruits, yellow and red Crab-apples, Loquats, Chestnuts, Nectarines,
Quinces, Grapes,

Mulberries of both 'Alba' and luscious Black-Royal varieties, Strawberries, Cran


berries, Raspberries,
Black-Berries and many other wild-grown Berries are there. Fruits, naturally, fo
rm a good part of
Kashmiri diet. Here many fruits are also cooked and turned into delectable dishe
s. Many fruits are also
preserved by canning or by pickling.
Huge quantities of Water-Chestnuts (Singhade) are a main produce of Kashmir's 'W
ullar' lake. Musk and
Water Melons, Cucumbers and almost all varieties of fruit, tuber, root and leafy
vegetables are grown
abundantly.
Enough Cereals, Legumes and Oil-seeds are produced in the valley, to feed its pe
ople and a large number
of tourists etc. as well. Plenty of local Fishes, Poultry, Sheep and Coat, Game
birds and animals, Ducks
and Geese, all cater to the needs of Kashmiris, who are mostly non-vegetarian, a
nd also to those of the
visitors and outsiders. Eggs, Milk-products and Honey are freely available. Miss
Piarie in her book
'Kashmir', has rightly called it as 'a place where one might live and die conten
t' !
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Reference Number Reference Name
1. De Leij: Culinary Art of Kashmir
by S. S. Kaul Kilam and Shyam Rani Kilam
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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On normal days, the cooking, in both Hindu and Muslim homes, is mostly done on a
Dan which is an
oblong clay oven, about 3' x 2' -and a foot and a half in height. It has a floor
-level hole, through which
firewood is fed and has usually 3 holes on the top, on which the food, in differ
ent pots, pans and vessels,
etc., is heated or cooked. Nowadays, due to scarcity of wood fuel, LPG and keros
ene stoves are
commonly used.
A typical Kashmiri Kitchen.
A big dinner, called a Sal, or a Vazavan, is still cooked in a Vurabal which is
an open-air kitchen. The
fire-place, for this sort of cooking, is called a Vura. It is about 10' to 15 '
in length. In the shape of an
above-ground drain, with air holes on both sides, it is built with bricks or sto
nes. Fire-wood is used as
fuel. Heat of such fires is very easily regulated for mass cooking. It is very c
onvenient for deep and slow
frying in big iron Cauldrons called 'Kadahis', as well as, for slow cooking and
simmering, in earthenware
pots especially. Here also the contents in cooking vessels, are conveniently wat
ched and stirred with
different types of wooden or metallic ladles. Such low-level Vura also facilitat
es the time to time addition
of ingredients. Generally, an hour or so berore serving most of the Dishes, the
cooking vessels are
removed from the Vura and are kept on charcoal or dry cowdung slow fires, for ma
turing of flavours and
arriving at the right consistency of gravy, and also the desired 'texture'.
Among Kashmiri Pandits cooking of most Vegetarian and Non-vegetarian Dishes, is
done mostly in pots
made of baked clay. The pot is called a Deg,a Degul or a Leij according to its s
hape and size. Cooking in
these pots gives the Meat, Cheese, Vegetable and other Dishes a special aroma. C
aking at the bottom of

pots, and acidic and alkaline reactions with metals, are also thus eliminated. R
ice and some other dishes
are cooked in tinned brass vessels. Muslims cook generally in tinned copper pots
. Pots used in Kashmir
are generally round bottomed, to make stirring and turning of the contents easy,
while cooking, and also
while mixing Spices and Condiments, which are called Masala.
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Culinary Art of Kashmir

A big round-bottomed, deep brass conking pot, with a somewhat narrow mouth, is c
alled a Digcha, by
Pandits. It is mainly used to cook Rice, and sometimes Pulavs or other Dishes pr
epared in larger
quantities. A similar pot, made of copper or aluminium and usually used by Musli
ms, is called by them a
Deg or a Digchavar according to its being big or small.
Round-bottomed, deep wide-mouthed metallic cooking pots, big and small, are call
ed Patila usually.
Pandits call these generally Bahugan, which is plural of Bahugun. It is a Sanskr
it word meaning 'a thing
having many good qualities.' Perhaps this name was given to this metallic pot, w
hen introduced in place
of the easily breakable earthenware pots (Handi) used earlier. These of course,
are utilized for many
kitchen jobs, such as boiling, frying, cooking etc. of foods, and are almost unb
reakable.
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1. 'Athataech', -Cloth for wiying hands etc.
2. 'Bothlai' and 'Chhegla',-Pots for cooking rice etc.
3. ' Chalan' and 'Raemb', -Broad spatulas.
4. 'Chhan', -Colander or strainer.
5. 'Chhonp', -Churning stick.
6. 'Chonchi' and 'Krechh',-Ladles.
7. 'Chumta' and 'Sanaes',-Tongs for holding hot things and lifting hot pots.
8. 'Dakna',-Lids.
9. 'Damchula', -Iron charcoal stove.
10. 'Dul' and 'Kond', -Metallic and deep wash basins.
11. 'Hahkol', -Clay charcoal stove.
12. 'Kafgir', -Perforated ladle.
13 'Kray' , -Cauldron.
14. 'Krochh', -Fire spoon.
15. 'Taev', -Iron griddle.
16. 'Masala' Vatur', -Box for keeping spices.
17. 'Mujikond',-Grater.

18. 'Sikh', -Skewer.


19. 'Tilavar' and 'Krond', -Edible oil pot and its ladle.
20. 'Voakhul' and 'Kajivadh', -Stone mortar and pestle.
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In Kashmir it is said that the food should both taste and look good. Its aroma m
ust be appetizing. Success
of a meal lies in its appeal to the eyes, nose and then the tongue.
In big Kashmiri dinners, where a hundred to five hundred people are usually invi
ted, on the occasion of
weddings and festivals etc., the food is served to the guests who are seated on
carpeted floors, which are
sometimes covered with Chandanis (White Sheets). These dinners are served in big
halls, or under
decorated Shamiyane (Canopies), which are well illuminated, and air conditioned,
if necessary, by means
of fans or stoves or electric heaters, according to the needs of the season.
Big metallic plates, generally made of stainless steel nowadays, are used for ea
ting. Eating with right
hand fingers and thumb is common. Service is usually done by cooks, friends and
family members. To
relish the Dishes individually, and make the cuisine an enjoyable one, different
preparations are not
mixed while eating, and service is done in a somewhat course-wise style. Thereby
each Dish, with its
particular flavour and delicacy, is relished and appreciated separately at a tim
e.
Wines and liqueurs are rarely served in Dinners. Instead, Green Condimented Tea
without milk, is served

generally after and even before a Dinner.


Modur Polav, a sweet 'Basmati' rice Pulav cooked in clarified butter (Ghi), milk
and water, along with
dry fruits, saffron, spices and other condiments, is a favourite dessert of Kash
miri Pandits. Khir, Halwa,
Firni, Fruit stews and Custards etc., are also served as desserts. In hot weathe
r, Kulfi, Ice-creams or some
other sweets are also prevelant nowadays.
To round off, a dinner or a feast, a condimented and scented Betel leaf (Pan) is
always welcome Tambul,
as it is called in Sanskrit, is always offered even to Deities in Puja etc. Of c
ourse it is the relisher and the
appreciater of good food preparations, who, as a guest, lends colour to a good f
east. Usually, once a
person joins a good Kashmiri feast, he or she never forgets it.
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1. 'Dul', 'Dulij', 'Var', 'Chod', and 'Tagaer',-Baked clay, milk, curd etc., Con
tainers.
2. 'Faot' and 'Longun'-Plastered wicker basket for grains etc., and wooden mug.
3. 'Girs', 'Gedva', 'Nar', 'Lutin', 'Abkhor', 'Jag', 'Baltin', 'Kamandal', 'Gang
asagar', and 'Gagaer' Metallic water pots, some with handles.
4. 'Goshpar' and 'Kaen'-Wooden mallet and flat stone.
5. 'Greta'-Quern.
6. 'Kashva', 'Krechh' and 'Chonchi',-Metallic and wooden spoons and ladles.
7. 'Kangaer',-Fire pot.

8. 'Kanz' and 'Muhul',-Wooden pole and big stone mortar for husking grains.
9. 'Khalur' and 'Dula', -Boat shaped stone mortar and oval stone pestle.
10. 'Krenjul', -Wicker basket for vegetables etc.
11. 'Lachhul',-Broom.
12. 'Maet', 'Math' and 'Nuot', -Baked clay big pots for grains and water. 13. 'N
iam' and 'Chhota', Stone broad mortar and wooden pestle.
14. 'Pahrat', 'Chilamchi' and 'Dunga', -Shallow and deep basins.
15. 'ShrakaPuch', -Folding knife.
16. 'Shrakh', 'Moand' and 'FashaKan',-Chopping knife, wooden block and hone.
17. 'Shup' and 'Pariun', -Hand winnow and sieve.
18. 'Tabach', 'Tok', 'Parva', 'Nar' and 'Machavar',-Baked clay plates and pots u
sed for eating
meals and drinking etc.
19. 'Tasht' and 'Nar', -Deep metallic basin and spouted water jug with handles f
or wastung hands
etc.
3-8
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


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For centuries the directives of of Shastras have been followed, to a great exten
t, by Pandits of Kashmir,
the sacred land of Kashyap Rishi, from whom the valley got its name, originally
Kashyap Mar. Pandit
means a highly leamed Brahmin. Kashmiri Pandits are Saraswat Brahmins, decendant
s of Rishis and
Munis, such as Dattatrya, Bhardwaj and Kashyap, and had their own script (Sharda
). Almost all are
literate. Kashmir, a Seat of Learning, was also called Sharda Pith.

During the reign of Muslim Rulers and after the conversion of most of the Brahmi
ns to Islam, many
changes took place in the Brahmin traditions and habits, which were inherited fr
om earlier ascetic people
of the Valley, but, to a good extent, these traditions do exist among Kashmiri P
andits even now, inspite of
modernization. The main object, of following the directives in regards to cookin
g, serving and eating of
foods is hygiene. Total or partial fasting, Brat as it is called, on certain day
s, in the form of a single meal
for the day, or even a saltless single meal, or taking of limited quantity of fr
uits, some vegetables and milk
only on that day, or having only one cereal meal in twenty-four hours, was a com
mon practice before
three or four decades. This is done even now by many Hindus.
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1. Each person eats in a separate plate.
2. Eating of stale food is prohibited, and is to be avoided.
3. Putting Katoris of vegetables etc. inside the eating plate (Thali) is prohibi
ted.
4. Water for drinking is always kept near the diner. In fact, before every main
meal a little water
is taken in the form of an Achman with a prayer. Without the tumbler touching th
e lips, water is
poured into the mouth from a little distance while drinking.
5. One cannot touch the unused food articles, or bowls containing the food, with
the hand with
which one is cating.
6. Fruits and green vegetables have to be thoroughly washed before being eaten.
Even the knives
etc. have to be scrubbed before using these for dressing etc.
7. Food is eaten while sitting on floor, while eating plates etc. are placed on
clay washed wet
floor or on a clean sheet, preferably woolen.
8. Washing of hands and mouth, before and after eating any food, is a must.
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Culinary Art of Kashmir

9. One cannot leave the eating place before the plates (Thalis) etc. are removed
and the place is
cleaned.
10. Eating meals in good light, preferably after sunrise and before sunset, is a
directive.
11. 'Fasts' (Brat) on certain days of every week and every month and on certain
days of a year,
are recommended, for spiritual and physical welfare.
12. Talking during eating is thought unwise.
13. Short prayers, before and after taking main meals, are to be offered.
14. Before eating always some food is set apart, as a 'Vishnu Arpari ', portion,
to be used for
serving an Atithi ie., an unannounced guest or a hungry person or an animal.
15. Use of aluminium utensils is not recommended. Brass or bronze or terracotta
utensils are used
for cooking. Bronze Thalis for eating food, and bronze cups for drinking tea, we
re common. To
clean bronze it is scrubbed with ashes. For brassware wet clay is used for scrub
bing and cleaning.
Copper utensils are mainly used for Puja. Silver tea-cups and tumblers etc. are
used by
aristocracy.
16. One can serve food only after he or she washes his or her hands. Any food to
uched by
unclean hands cannot be served or eaten. Even food touched with the hand with wh
ich one has
been eating cannot be served to other people.
17. One cannot transfer any portion of his food, which the person has been eatin
g, to another
person's plate.
18. Meat eating, and use of intoxicants, are Tamsik and are considered to retard
spiritual growth
and physical welfare.
4-10
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


5
55 S
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Spices and Condiments play a very important role in the Kashmiri Culinary Art an
d their Cuisine,
especially in the Dishes of Kashmiri Pandits.
Kashmir, being on the ancient Silk Route, the traders in Indian Spices, from all
over the world, passed
through this valley and generally stayed here as visitors, to enjoy the salubrio
us summer climate and also
to sell non-local spices and buy locally produced saffron, spices, medicinal her
bs and roots, dry fruits and
Shawls etc.
Kashmiri Pandits inherited the knowledge of medicinal values and aromatic qualit
ies of different spices
and condiments, from ancient Sanskrit Texts of Ayurveda. The use of these and th
eir availability, in
almost all Kashmiri houses, was and is common. Hardly there is any spice or cond
iment which is not
available from a Kashmiri Grocer or a Pansar. In fact, a class of traders called
Buhuer sprang up in due
course to deal especially in spices and medicinal herbs, roots, seeds and minera
ls.
Learning the special use of local spices, herbs and condiments, and of those int
roduced by the outsiders,
hundreds of exquisite dishes were developed by Kashmiris. These include both veg
etarian and nonvegetarian preparations. Some are hot, sweet or sour, some fragrant and spicy an
d others soft or crunchy
and so on. Here, thus, matured the art of blending of different spices, in right
proportions, in order to
prepare foods with variable flavours and aromas. These were developcd to a sort
of perfection, to suit

different seasons and occasions, and also the tastes of both Indians and Foreign
ers.
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Culinary Art of Kashmir

To cater to the ever growing demands, a class of professional expert cooks and c
hefs grew up, who
completed with one another for producing exquisite dishes. Culinary art of Kashm
ir also got impetus
through the patronage of affluent people who permanently enagaged expert cooks.
The 'patrons' vied with
one another, by throwing dinner parties, in which their special dishes were serv
ed and these were talked
about by guests afterwards for days together. Even now somc have become reminisc
ences for some
people of older generation, who give graphic description of such feasts.
Spices and condiments are used freely, and in good quantities, by Kashmiri Pandi
ts. Kashmiri Muslims
use these commonly called 'Masale' sparingly, but there is predominance of Onion
, Garlic and Shallot in
both their Meat and Vcgetarian preparations. Shallot is called Pran in Kashmir.
It is not used in Pandit
kitchens. Now, in recent years Onions and Garlic are used in a few of their Vege
table and Meat Curries.
Pandits use Asafoetida (Hing) instead of Onions, Garlic or Shallots.
Therefore, for those who are eager to learn the Kashmiri Culinary Art, the knowl
edge of different Spices,
Condiments and ingredients used by Kashmiris, is primarily necessary. Knowing pr
oper methods of
processing and presentation of these, before their use, is also essential. A com
prehensive note follows
regarding this and also a list of all these Spices, Condiments, and previously p
repared Mixtures and
'Cakes' of Spices, for ready use is given.
5-12
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


6
66 W
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NOTE: These excerpts have been taken from the J&K Tourism literature.
The Wazwan is Kashmir's most formal meal: a ritual serving before the guest of a
ll the food there is in
the house. This taste of hospitality must in turn be fully appreciated by the gu
est, for the wazwan is not a
simple meal but a ceremony. Hours of cooking and days of planning go into the ma
king and serving of a
wazwan. Normally restricted to occasions of celebration at homes, the wazwan exp
erience includes table
settings for groups of four on the floor where choice dish after dish is served,
each aromatic with herbs
and the fresh produce of the region.
First the Tash-t-Nari is passed around, and diners wash their hands from warm wa
ter in a samovar. The
waza (chief cook) personally supervises each dish which comes out of his kitchen
. even the ingredients
for the meal have been hand-picked, and effort has ensured that each dish in thi
s rich cuisine is one-of-akind.
Choice delicacies such as Methi and Tabakmaaz, Roganjosh and Rista, and a variet
y of Kababs
and vegetable preparations are served.
The traditional Wazwan meal is served in groups of four.
Saffron flavoured pilauf is a popular delicacy.
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Culinary Art of Kashmir


The meal concludes with the Gushtaba, a very exclusive dish, and one that is nev
er refused, Phirni for
dessert and a cup of Kahwah, the green tea flavored with saffron, cardamom and a
lmonds, and the
wazwan is over -a meal that is an experience in Kashmiri hospitality.
The Kashmiri delicacy, gushtaba, is served piping hot.
A serving of lamb.
A choice of dishes served at the Wazwan.
6-14
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Culinary Art of Kashmir

The washing of hands preparatory to dining.


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