Kashmir
Kashmir
Kashmir
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The Authors
S. S. Kaul Kilam and Shyam Rani Kilam
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Kashmiris are hospitable by nature. They enjoy social life and mutual entertainm
ent. This has been one
main cause of the development of their culinary art. Different types of menus we
re also inspired by the
cuisines of different rulers and visitors, who came in the past from Persia, Afg
hanistan and otherplaces.
Mugals especially had a great influence on the cooking of Meat Dishes and differ
ent Pulavs. Emperors
Jehangir and Shahjehan, with their lovely queens, their courtiers and kith and k
in, made Kashmir their
health resort and a place of sport, enjoyment, eating and drinking. Shahjehan us
ed to visit Kashmir every
summer and called it a Paradise on Earth. Jehangir's last wish, at his death, wa
s 'Kashmir and Nothing
else'.
Its salubrious climate, unrivalled and picturesque natural scenery, its invigora
ting, digestive, sweet and
crystal-clear waters of springs and abounding streams, its beautiful lakes, maje
stic Pine and Deodar
forests, and snow capped mountains, its breezy summers, flaming and blazing colo
urful and breathtaking
autumns, the cool and calm grandeur of its winter snows, followed by charming fl
ower-laden fragrant
springs, all have made Kashmir a gourmet's heaven. Here amongst these blessing o
f Mother Nature,
enjoying good and delicious spicy food, is a delighting desire of men, women and
children alike.
Outdoor picnics, luncheons and dinners, in big and small comfortable boats, (Hou
se Boats, Dungas and
Shikara.), plying on the famous Dal lake, are common. Parties of people of every
class are seen enjoying
hearty meals, Qehva, Shier Chay, cookies and sweets, according to their means. T
he spicy aroma of
food, being cooked in the small kitchens, provided in the bigger boats, permeate
s the air. Strains of
soothing Sufiyana music to the, accompanimcnt of Sitar, Saz, and Dukra (Tabla),
or sound of exciting
choral Chhakri-lyrical songs, with Nuot, Tumbaknar and Roani beating time and Sa
rangi playing to
the tune, come from some of the boats, all heading slowly towards the 'Mughal' a
nd other gardens,
'Chinar' groves, Shrines and springs situated here and there, on or near the sho
res of the lake. Fields of
lotuses and water-lilies bloom on the outskirts of the lake, and the surrounding
hills are mirrored in its
clear water.
The eyes feast on similar cheerful boating scenes on the 'Manasbal', 'Anchar' an
d 'Wullar' lakes. Wullar is
perhaps the largest fresh-water lake of Asia. Sweet damsels steering at one end
of tiny and light boats,
with fishermen holding aiming spears in their right hands, and standing with eye
s fixed on the water, at
the other end of the boats, ready to strike at an underwater swimming fish, are
lovely sights seen here and
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pots, and acidic and alkaline reactions with metals, are also thus eliminated. R
ice and some other dishes
are cooked in tinned brass vessels. Muslims cook generally in tinned copper pots
. Pots used in Kashmir
are generally round bottomed, to make stirring and turning of the contents easy,
while cooking, and also
while mixing Spices and Condiments, which are called Masala.
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A big round-bottomed, deep brass conking pot, with a somewhat narrow mouth, is c
alled a Digcha, by
Pandits. It is mainly used to cook Rice, and sometimes Pulavs or other Dishes pr
epared in larger
quantities. A similar pot, made of copper or aluminium and usually used by Musli
ms, is called by them a
Deg or a Digchavar according to its being big or small.
Round-bottomed, deep wide-mouthed metallic cooking pots, big and small, are call
ed Patila usually.
Pandits call these generally Bahugan, which is plural of Bahugun. It is a Sanskr
it word meaning 'a thing
having many good qualities.' Perhaps this name was given to this metallic pot, w
hen introduced in place
of the easily breakable earthenware pots (Handi) used earlier. These of course,
are utilized for many
kitchen jobs, such as boiling, frying, cooking etc. of foods, and are almost unb
reakable.
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1. 'Dul', 'Dulij', 'Var', 'Chod', and 'Tagaer',-Baked clay, milk, curd etc., Con
tainers.
2. 'Faot' and 'Longun'-Plastered wicker basket for grains etc., and wooden mug.
3. 'Girs', 'Gedva', 'Nar', 'Lutin', 'Abkhor', 'Jag', 'Baltin', 'Kamandal', 'Gang
asagar', and 'Gagaer' Metallic water pots, some with handles.
4. 'Goshpar' and 'Kaen'-Wooden mallet and flat stone.
5. 'Greta'-Quern.
6. 'Kashva', 'Krechh' and 'Chonchi',-Metallic and wooden spoons and ladles.
7. 'Kangaer',-Fire pot.
8. 'Kanz' and 'Muhul',-Wooden pole and big stone mortar for husking grains.
9. 'Khalur' and 'Dula', -Boat shaped stone mortar and oval stone pestle.
10. 'Krenjul', -Wicker basket for vegetables etc.
11. 'Lachhul',-Broom.
12. 'Maet', 'Math' and 'Nuot', -Baked clay big pots for grains and water. 13. 'N
iam' and 'Chhota', Stone broad mortar and wooden pestle.
14. 'Pahrat', 'Chilamchi' and 'Dunga', -Shallow and deep basins.
15. 'ShrakaPuch', -Folding knife.
16. 'Shrakh', 'Moand' and 'FashaKan',-Chopping knife, wooden block and hone.
17. 'Shup' and 'Pariun', -Hand winnow and sieve.
18. 'Tabach', 'Tok', 'Parva', 'Nar' and 'Machavar',-Baked clay plates and pots u
sed for eating
meals and drinking etc.
19. 'Tasht' and 'Nar', -Deep metallic basin and spouted water jug with handles f
or wastung hands
etc.
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During the reign of Muslim Rulers and after the conversion of most of the Brahmi
ns to Islam, many
changes took place in the Brahmin traditions and habits, which were inherited fr
om earlier ascetic people
of the Valley, but, to a good extent, these traditions do exist among Kashmiri P
andits even now, inspite of
modernization. The main object, of following the directives in regards to cookin
g, serving and eating of
foods is hygiene. Total or partial fasting, Brat as it is called, on certain day
s, in the form of a single meal
for the day, or even a saltless single meal, or taking of limited quantity of fr
uits, some vegetables and milk
only on that day, or having only one cereal meal in twenty-four hours, was a com
mon practice before
three or four decades. This is done even now by many Hindus.
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1. Each person eats in a separate plate.
2. Eating of stale food is prohibited, and is to be avoided.
3. Putting Katoris of vegetables etc. inside the eating plate (Thali) is prohibi
ted.
4. Water for drinking is always kept near the diner. In fact, before every main
meal a little water
is taken in the form of an Achman with a prayer. Without the tumbler touching th
e lips, water is
poured into the mouth from a little distance while drinking.
5. One cannot touch the unused food articles, or bowls containing the food, with
the hand with
which one is cating.
6. Fruits and green vegetables have to be thoroughly washed before being eaten.
Even the knives
etc. have to be scrubbed before using these for dressing etc.
7. Food is eaten while sitting on floor, while eating plates etc. are placed on
clay washed wet
floor or on a clean sheet, preferably woolen.
8. Washing of hands and mouth, before and after eating any food, is a must.
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9. One cannot leave the eating place before the plates (Thalis) etc. are removed
and the place is
cleaned.
10. Eating meals in good light, preferably after sunrise and before sunset, is a
directive.
11. 'Fasts' (Brat) on certain days of every week and every month and on certain
days of a year,
are recommended, for spiritual and physical welfare.
12. Talking during eating is thought unwise.
13. Short prayers, before and after taking main meals, are to be offered.
14. Before eating always some food is set apart, as a 'Vishnu Arpari ', portion,
to be used for
serving an Atithi ie., an unannounced guest or a hungry person or an animal.
15. Use of aluminium utensils is not recommended. Brass or bronze or terracotta
utensils are used
for cooking. Bronze Thalis for eating food, and bronze cups for drinking tea, we
re common. To
clean bronze it is scrubbed with ashes. For brassware wet clay is used for scrub
bing and cleaning.
Copper utensils are mainly used for Puja. Silver tea-cups and tumblers etc. are
used by
aristocracy.
16. One can serve food only after he or she washes his or her hands. Any food to
uched by
unclean hands cannot be served or eaten. Even food touched with the hand with wh
ich one has
been eating cannot be served to other people.
17. One cannot transfer any portion of his food, which the person has been eatin
g, to another
person's plate.
18. Meat eating, and use of intoxicants, are Tamsik and are considered to retard
spiritual growth
and physical welfare.
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different seasons and occasions, and also the tastes of both Indians and Foreign
ers.
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To cater to the ever growing demands, a class of professional expert cooks and c
hefs grew up, who
completed with one another for producing exquisite dishes. Culinary art of Kashm
ir also got impetus
through the patronage of affluent people who permanently enagaged expert cooks.
The 'patrons' vied with
one another, by throwing dinner parties, in which their special dishes were serv
ed and these were talked
about by guests afterwards for days together. Even now somc have become reminisc
ences for some
people of older generation, who give graphic description of such feasts.
Spices and condiments are used freely, and in good quantities, by Kashmiri Pandi
ts. Kashmiri Muslims
use these commonly called 'Masale' sparingly, but there is predominance of Onion
, Garlic and Shallot in
both their Meat and Vcgetarian preparations. Shallot is called Pran in Kashmir.
It is not used in Pandit
kitchens. Now, in recent years Onions and Garlic are used in a few of their Vege
table and Meat Curries.
Pandits use Asafoetida (Hing) instead of Onions, Garlic or Shallots.
Therefore, for those who are eager to learn the Kashmiri Culinary Art, the knowl
edge of different Spices,
Condiments and ingredients used by Kashmiris, is primarily necessary. Knowing pr
oper methods of
processing and presentation of these, before their use, is also essential. A com
prehensive note follows
regarding this and also a list of all these Spices, Condiments, and previously p
repared Mixtures and
'Cakes' of Spices, for ready use is given.
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