Aditivos Reológicos em Cosméticos
Aditivos Reológicos em Cosméticos
Aditivos Reológicos em Cosméticos
AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
BENTONE MA
Hectorite
BENTONE EW
Hectorite
BENTONE LT
Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose
NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
Powders
BENTONE 27 V
Stearalkonium Hectorite
BENTONE 38 V
Disteardimonium Hectorite
THIXCIN R
MASTERGELS
Solvents/Oils
BENTONE GEL CAO V
BENTONE GEL SS71 V
BENTONE GEL DOA V
BENTONE GEL EUG V
BENTONE GEL GTCC V
BENTONE GEL HSO V
BENTONE GEL IHD V
BENTONE GEL IPM V
BENTONE GEL ISD V
BENTONE GEL LOI V
BENTONE GEL MIO V
BENTONE GEL OMS V
BENTONE GEL OP V
BENTONE GEL PTIS V
BENTONE GEL PTM V
BENTONE GEL TN V
BENTONE GEL YVS V
Trihydroxystearin
Volatile Silicone
BENTONE GEL VS-5V
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
BENTONE GEL VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries.
Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor.
Above list is a product guideline.
BENTONE EW, BENTONE 27 V and BENTONE 38 V are also available as irradiated grades for controlled mircobial content.
Tailor-made products are available on request.
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets.
Rheological Additives
in Cosmetics
EUROPE
ELEMENTIS Specialties
Consumer Products
Pegasuspark
De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3
B-1831 Diegem, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 790 76 00
Fax: +32 2 790 76 60
e-mail: [email protected]
Technical Centre
ELEMENTIS GmbH
Stolberger Strasse 370
50933 Cologne
Germany
Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900
Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910
U.S.
www.elementis-specialties.com
pu r e i n co sme t i c s
pure i n cos m e t i c s
Highly recommended
Recommended
Applications
Antiperspirant Aerosol
Roll-on
Stick
Cream
Deodorant
Roll-on
Stick
Solvent-borne
Emulsion
Pencil
Mascara
Lip Products
Lipstick
Gloss
Roll-on
Pot
Chapstick
Make-up
Pressed Powders
Skin Care
Creams-O/W
Creams-W/O
Creams-cold process
Lotions
Ointments
Hand cleansers
Sun Care
Creams-O/W
Creams-W/O
Lotions
Oils
Covert UV protection
Sunblock sticks
After-sun
Hair Care
Shampoos
Conditioners
pu re i n co s m e t ics
Emulsion
Personal Care
Skin Care
Sun Care
Decorative Cosmetics
Solvent-borne
Nail Polish
Properties imparted by
Applications ELEMENTIS Specialties
products
Aqueous-phase
Thickeners
Non-aqueous-phase
Thickeners
BENTONE GEL TN V
BENTONE GEL OP V
THIXCIN R
BENTONE 38 V
BENTONE 27 V
BENTONE LT
BENTONE EW
BENTONE MA
UV actives enhancement
Thermostable rheology
Thickening/Thixotropy
Suspension
Products
Rheological Additives
for Cosmetics
Stability
ELEMENTIS
Specialties
Contents
Introduction
Aqueous-Phase Additives
Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives
BENTONE GEL
10/11
12
13
14
INCI References
15
Applications Table
16/17
BENTONE
BENTONE GEL
NANOX
THIXCIN
are trade names of
ELEMENTIS Specialties
ELEMENTIS Specialties
Rheological Additives
for Cosmetics
Improving aqueous, organic and
emulsion-based products
Aqueous-Phase Additives
Hectorite - The benefits
Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering several
advantages. Hectorites special properties, compared
with bentonite, are:
p u r e i n co s m e tics
7
Wetting
Medium to high-shear mixing
Add clay to water before addition of other
ingredients
Disperse at moderate pH
Shear
Low shear (< 10 ms-1)
= long mixing time (> 30 mins)
High shear (> 15 ms-1)
= shorter mixing time (10-15 mins)
Time
10 minutes hydration before adding other
ingredients
Heat
Water at up to 60C (140F) reduces hydration time
It is important to have only unadulterated water
present at the dispersion stage. Surfactants or
electrolytes should not be added until dispersion is
completed
For additional guidance see page 14
Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives
BENTONE rheological additives are non-abrasive.
The skin feel imparted by BENTONE hydrophilic clays
is a pleasant silkiness, quite different to that
associated with the majority of cellulose, polymer
and polysaccharide-based thickeners.
Furthermore, as hectorite itself is insensitive to
temperature variations, the BENTONE products impart
a thermostable viscosity control.
Surfactants can influence the rheological behaviour
of hydrophilic clays.
Non-ionic surfactants, if they are highly ethoxylated,
can adsorb onto the clay surface. This rarely causes
problems either in flow control or activity of the
formulation.
Anionic surfactants can act as dispersing agents and
weaken the gel structure. Alternatives that eliminate
or minimise any problems can normally be found.
Additive
Application
BENTONE 27 V
Intermediate to high-polarity
organic systems such as esters
and triglycerides - for nail lacquers,
skin care, antiperspirants and
lip products
BENTONE 38 V
Low to intermediate-polarity
organic systems such as volatile
silicones and mineral oil - for
antiperspirants, creams, lotions,
eye products and suntan products
BENTONE GEL
BENTONE GEL additives are optimally dispersed
and activated predispersions of ELEMENTIS Specialties
organoclays.
Benefits include:
optimally dispersed
high-shear dispersion not necessary
no polar activation required
easy to handle and use
INCORPORATION
BENTONE GEL additives can be added at any
convenient suitable stage in the manufacturing cycle.
BENTONE GEL additives are very high-viscosity, shear
thinning products. To ensure good homogeneous
mixing is achieved, care must be taken to overcome
large viscosity differentials existing between the
BENTONE GEL and the other lower-viscosity
components. Choice of mixing equipment and the
configuration within the mixing vessels are critical
factors in developing the optimum performance of
the BENTONE GEL additive. The use of medium- to
high-shear mixing equipment is recommended.
For additional guidance see page 14
Batch Processing
Single-Phase Systems
Always add the BENTONE GEL, under shear,
to a portion of the organic component or solvent
with which it is most compatible. Mix until
homogeneous before adding the other ingredients.
Continuous processing
The BENTONE GEL should be added to the oil phase at
any convenient point that meets the above guidelines
for the batch processing. In multi-manifold systems,
a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE GEL with a
compatible oil or solvent should be made in a side pot.
Where only lower-shear mixing equipment is available,
stir the BENTONE GEL alone, in a small mixing vessel,
if necessary, and then slowly add the most compatible
component by portions, always ensuring the mixture is
homogeneous at each stage.
11
Product Application
and Selection
Choosing the right
rheological additive
Mascara
improve film-build
increase water-resistance
eliminate oil migration
Emulsions
elevate drop-point temperature
of water-in-oil creams
eliminate syneresis
improve emulsion stability
enable cold-process emulsification
create novel viscosity effects
UV Sunscreen
eliminate ultrafine Ti02 skin-whitening problems
enhance sun protection factor (SPF)
optimise use of sunscreen actives
reduce separation and settlement
Antiperspirant Aerosols
uniform distribution of active ingredients
soft and dry skin feel
significant less whitening
reduced separation and settlement
13
Shear Development
Generic Type
Low
Paddle
Low
Propeller
Medium
Planetary
Med-high
Rotor/stator
Med-high
Impeller
Very high
Homogeniser
BENTONE MA, BENTONE EW and BENTONE LT additives powders needing high-energy mixing
Conditions
Order of addition
Special factors
BENTONE EW < 5
pH of water neutral.
Sift clay in gradually. Add
defoamers, if needed, only
after dispersion completed.
BENTONE MA
BENTONE EW
BENTONE LT
pH of water neutral.
Sift clay in gradually.
Suitable for
BENTONE
MA, EW, LT
additives.
<10%
< 5%
< 4%
Unsuitable
insufficient shear.
Order of addition
N/A
Special factors
N/A
Recommended
for
BENTONE 27 V
and 38 V
additives.
14
18
Conditions
Add gel to
vessel, apply
shear prior to
adding other
ingredients
by increments.
Order of addition
Add oil to
gel stepwise.
Special factors
Ensure mixture is
homogeneous at each
dilution stage until flowable
consistency achieved.
INCI References
AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
BENTONE MA
Hectorite
BENTONE EW
Hectorite
BENTONE LT
Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose
NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
Powders
BENTONE 27 V
Stearalkonium Hectorite
BENTONE 38 V
Disteardimonium Hectorite
THIXCIN R
MASTERGELS
Solvents/Oils
BENTONE GEL CAO V
BENTONE GEL SS71 V
BENTONE GEL DOA V
BENTONE GEL EUG V
BENTONE GEL GTCC V
BENTONE GEL HSO V
BENTONE GEL IHD V
BENTONE GEL IPM V
BENTONE GEL ISD V
BENTONE GEL LOI V
BENTONE GEL MIO V
BENTONE GEL OMS V
BENTONE GEL OP V
BENTONE GEL PTIS V
BENTONE GEL PTM V
BENTONE GEL TN V
BENTONE GEL YVS V
Trihydroxystearin
Volatile Silicone
BENTONE GEL VS-5V
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
BENTONE GEL VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries.
Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor.
Above list is a product guideline.
BENTONE EW, BENTONE 27 V and BENTONE 38 V are also available as irradiated grades for controlled mircobial content.
Tailor-made products are available on request.
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets.
Rheological Additives
in Cosmetics
EUROPE
ELEMENTIS Specialties
Consumer Products
Pegasuspark
De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3
B-1831 Diegem, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 790 76 00
Fax: +32 2 790 76 60
e-mail: [email protected]
Technical Centre
ELEMENTIS GmbH
Stolberger Strasse 370
50933 Cologne
Germany
Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900
Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910
U.S.
www.elementis-specialties.com
pu r e i n co sme t i c s
pure i n cos m e t i c s
Highly recommended
Recommended
Applications
Antiperspirant Aerosol
Roll-on
Stick
Cream
Deodorant
Roll-on
Stick
Solvent-borne
Emulsion
Pencil
Mascara
Lip Products
Lipstick
Gloss
Roll-on
Pot
Chapstick
Make-up
Pressed Powders
Skin Care
Creams-O/W
Creams-W/O
Creams-cold process
Lotions
Ointments
Hand cleansers
Sun Care
Creams-O/W
Creams-W/O
Lotions
Oils
Covert UV protection
Sunblock sticks
After-sun
Hair Care
Shampoos
Conditioners
pu re i n co s m e t ics
Emulsion
Personal Care
Skin Care
Sun Care
Decorative Cosmetics
Solvent-borne
Nail Polish
Properties imparted by
Applications ELEMENTIS Specialties
products
Aqueous-phase
Thickeners
Non-aqueous-phase
Thickeners
BENTONE GEL TN V
BENTONE GEL OP V
THIXCIN R
BENTONE 38 V
BENTONE 27 V
BENTONE LT
BENTONE EW
BENTONE MA
UV actives enhancement
Thermostable rheology
Thickening/Thixotropy
Suspension
Products
Rheological Additives
for Cosmetics
Stability
ELEMENTIS
Specialties
INCI References
AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
BENTONE MA
Hectorite
BENTONE EW
Hectorite
BENTONE LT
Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose
NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES
Powders
BENTONE 27 V
Stearalkonium Hectorite
BENTONE 38 V
Disteardimonium Hectorite
THIXCIN R
MASTERGELS
Solvents/Oils
BENTONE GEL CAO V
BENTONE GEL SS71 V
BENTONE GEL DOA V
BENTONE GEL EUG V
BENTONE GEL GTCC V
BENTONE GEL HSO V
BENTONE GEL IHD V
BENTONE GEL IPM V
BENTONE GEL ISD V
BENTONE GEL LOI V
BENTONE GEL MIO V
BENTONE GEL OMS V
BENTONE GEL OP V
BENTONE GEL PTIS V
BENTONE GEL PTM V
BENTONE GEL TN V
BENTONE GEL YVS V
Trihydroxystearin
Volatile Silicone
BENTONE GEL VS-5V
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
BENTONE GEL VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries.
Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor.
Above list is a product guideline.
BENTONE EW, BENTONE 27 V and BENTONE 38 V are also available as irradiated grades for controlled mircobial content.
Tailor-made products are available on request.
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets.
Rheological Additives
in Cosmetics
EUROPE
ELEMENTIS Specialties
Consumer Products
Pegasuspark
De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3
B-1831 Diegem, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 790 76 00
Fax: +32 2 790 76 60
e-mail: [email protected]
Technical Centre
ELEMENTIS GmbH
Stolberger Strasse 370
50933 Cologne
Germany
Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900
Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910
U.S.
www.elementis-specialties.com
pu r e i n co sme t i c s
pure i n cos m e t i c s