Woodworker's Journal - Summer 2015 - Home Accent Projects
Woodworker's Journal - Summer 2015 - Home Accent Projects
Woodworker's Journal - Summer 2015 - Home Accent Projects
SUMMER
2015
HOME ACCENT
PROJECTS
Page
68
vely
i
s
u
l
Exc on the !
sold sstand
new
Bar Stool
Page
42
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Page
52
Flag Case
Hall Mirror
Knife Block
Picture Frame
Floor Lamp
" - 2"
FinishPro21LXP
3D Engraving
0USH`Z
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Photo Engraving
Golden, Colorado
Summer 2015
Table of Contents
Home Accent
Projects
Ta b l e o f C o n t e n t s
Scroll Sawn
Flared Bowl,
page 48
Southwestern
Entry Bench,
page 6
Rob Johnstone
Joanna Werch Takes
Jeff Jacobson
Joe Fahey
Dan Cary
Matthew Hocking
Publisher
Editor
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Email: [email protected]
Home Accent Projects
is published by Rockler Press Inc.,
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Single copy price, $9.99. Reproduction without
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Website:
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Mahogany
Serving Tray,
page 20
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
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1"
1
3
11
/8"
1
/16"
/8" 3/4"
21/2"
/16"
/16"
/2"
/8"
21/4"
/4"
11
/8"
1"
1" R.
7
Outside Face
/16" Dia.
21/2"
Top Face
9
1
/4"
11/8"
/2"
Panel
Groove
/16"
/4"
11/8"
9
/16"
Floor Groove
Note: Some hidden lines on the leg and stile
and rail drawings are not shown to avoid the
confusion of overlapping mortises and tenons.
11
11
/4"
9
12
11/4" R.
/4"
/16"
Exploded View
/16" Dia.
Back Leg
Pivot
2 /4"
(Inside View)
5
12
10
9
115/16
6
5
7
10
9
8
10
8
6
9
Material /LVW
Top (1)
Box Lid (1)
Lid Support Cleats (2)
Box Floor (1)
Long Rails (4)
Short Rails (4)
Legs (4)
Stiles (6)
3HYNL7HULSZ
:THSS7HULSZ
Top Support Rails (2)
Pivot Pegs (2) (carve to fit)
TxWx3
11 4" x 20" x 42"
1" x 113 8" x 313 8"
1" x 1" x 111 2"
3/4" x 32" x 12"
23 16" x 21 4" x 361 2"
23 16" x 21 4" x 161 2"
21 4" x 21 4" x 18"
11 2" x 2" x 133 4"
_ 1 4" x 10"
_1 2 _ 1 4"
1" x 3" x 17"
3/8" x 3/8" x 21 2"
/4"
1
/2"
Right
Front
Leg
/8"
Box Floor
(Section View)
Short Rails
(Inside and Top Views)
1
5
/4"
1"
/8"
/4"
1"
5
/8"
Floor Groove
1"
21/2"
5
/8"
/8"
/8"
11
1"
9
/16"
/2"
/16"
/4"
13
/16"
/16"
Outside Face
10
Right
Back
Leg
Panel Groove
/8"
1 /4"
11/8"
9
/16"
1"
Front Face
11/8"
23/4"
5
/8"
Outside Face
35/16"
1"
/8"
/8"
/8"
11/8"
/8"
/4"
/4"
/4" 3/8"
5
1
1 /8"
9
/4"
1"
5
3"
29/16"
/8"
/16"
/8"
11/8"
3"
1"
2"
35/16"
/8"
13/4"
11/8"
9
23/4"
/16"
1"
5
/8"
1"
11/8"
5
/8"
11/8"
1
/8"
/4"
Outside Face
/8"
1
/4"
Rear Face
/8"
1
/8" /4"
/4"
/8"
11/8"
1"
5
3"
/16"
3"
1"
29/16"
1 /8"
/8"
2"
Stiles
(Outside and Side Views)
21/2"
21/2"
1"
/4"
11
/16"
/2"
3
3
3
/8"
/8"
8
1"
/4"
/4"
Outside Face
Cutting Tenons,
Raising Panels
/8"
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
11
including our precious mesquite, and a prayer for additional reinforcement, I started in
carefully, moving VERY slowly.
The prayers, the planning ...
ever ything worked out well.
Im using the same two ngers
to type this stor y as all the
others Ive written, and yes, I
feel grateful. Before nal tting
and surfacing, I cut the saddles
into the front legs for the rails
that will support the top in the
down position. I then formed
a radius on the back legs where
the rails and top will pivot,
which turns this entr y bench
into a chair-table.
When chopping out the mortises on a drill press, the author used different diameters
of Forstner bits to hog out the waste.
12
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
13
14
The chips ew during the panel-raising process. The author anchored a shop-made
fence to the router table with screws. The large-diameter panel-raising bit had a back
cutter that formed a clean shadow line around the face of the panels.
Summer 2015
15
16
Material /LVW
woodworker without a full shop,
you can cut these joints by hand,
but if you have access to a shop,
these lap joints are easy to cut on
a table saw.
Rails (2)
Stiles (2)
Mirror (1)
Retainers (4)
Back (1)
Strap Hangers (2)
Decorative Accents (4)
TxWx3
3/4" x 212" x 14"
3/4" x 112" x 19 38"
1/4" Cut to fit
1/2" x 3/8" x 7/8"
1/8" x 1312" x 18"
Steel
Optional
Mirror
Exploded View
1
3
2
6
5
Finishing Up
Topcoat the project with your
favorite clear nish. Finally, having come this far, be sure to use
quality strap hangers (pieces 6),
available at hardware stores, to
properly support the weight of
the mirror. Now you have it ... a
quick project that shows off your
best woodworking side!
Summer 2015
17
Technical 'UDZLQJV
5
(Top View)
2
1
4
(Side View)
(Front View)
1
21/16"
11/2"
Frame
Assembly
Section
View
4
3
2
2
5
3
151/4"
2
1
20 /4"
21/4"
/4"
13/4"
21/16"
21/2"
3
/4"
14"
(End View)
3
(Side View)
/8"
4
1
/4"
/8"
3
/16"
18
/2"
/4"
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Summer 2015
19
Getting Started
I built my tray rst and then
moved on to the base. An overriding concern of mine was that
the legs must be true and at
perfect right angles to the base
and oor. A slight skew in or
out would result in a spindly,
20
After the tray stiles and rails are cut to width and rabbeted,
they can be mitered to length.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
21
Leg Pattern
The turned tenons on both ends
of the stretcher need to be long
enough to engage both legs, on
each side of the table, as you
assemble the project.
Before moving on to assembling the base, I recommend creating a cardboard template for
your mirrored top. I used full
1/4" mirror for mine, and its
not cheap (and it doesnt sand or
plane well, either!). Take the template to your glass shop and let
them create the top from it rather
than from a set of measurements.
Note: This is
a pattern for the
template. Cut
your stock a little
long so you can
sand (instead of
rout) the ends
to length.
Stretcher
Tenon
Location
Base
Subassembly
10
(Top View)
4"
43/4"
1
3
/4"
3
/4"
53/4"
Tray Stile
(Top View)
Tray Support
Mortise
Detail
11
3
3
1
/4"
/4"
/4"
/4"
Exploded View
/4"
10
11/4"
/4"
Slight chamfer
Tray Handle
Location
(Front View)
7
1
/2"
Material /LVW
TxWx3
3/4" x 21 4" x 32"
3/4" x 21 4" x 16"
3/4" x 11 4" x 13"
3/4" x 23 8" x 155 8"
3/4" x 1" x 31"
3/4" x 6" x 35"
1" x 1" x 301 2"
3/4" x 13 4" x 291 2"
3/4" x 13 4" x 28"
3/4" x 13 4" x 101 2"
1/4" x 13" x 19"
5/8" Diameter
4
5
1
5
/8"
11/4"
3
/4"
Stretcher
(Side View)
14"
12
11/4" Dia.
4
C
L
1"
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
23
Bringing it Together
Finishing Up
Test-t the mirror (piece 11)
and tap the glides (pieces 12) in
place. After sanding everything
up to 320 grit, I applied a custom
stain I concocted by mixing (half
and half) Zars Rosewood Stain
with Carbon Black Woodburst.
Next, I applied a coat of
sanding sealer and two coats
of lacquer, with a light 320
sanding between each coat. The
nal step is to drop (carefully!)
the mirror into place.
Brad was right: mahogany is a
joy to work with, and its a tting
detail to a project my mother will
enjoy for years to come.
24
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Summer 2015
25
26
Photo 1
Full-size SDWWHUQ
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
27
Photo 2
Photo 3
Step 6: Using a scroll saw, carefully cut along the dark outlines
on the pattern (Photo 1). Light
directional pressure is all that is
required allow the saw to do
the work.
Step 7: Move from the
outside aspects of the trivet to
the inner sections.
Step 8: When all the cutting
is done, remove the remaining
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Summer 2015
29
30
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
31
Case Side
Cope-and-Stick
Detail
(Inside View)
1
/4"
Tool Cabinet
Exploded View
5
2
2"
/4"
21/2"
Hinge
location
Bore holes
for the shelf
supports
10
9
1
Locate the holes
for the shelf
supports to suit
your display
cabinets specic
needs.
Material /LVW
TxWx3
Case Sides (2)
1" x 6" x 23"
Case Top and Bottom (2) 3/4" x 47 8" x 187 8"
Back Panel (1)
1/4" x 193 8" x 22"
Door Rails (2)
1" x 13 4" x 161 8"
Door Stiles (2)
1" x 13 4" x 227 8"
Glass (1)
Cut to fit
Hinges (2)
21 2" Brass
Cap/base (2)
3/4" x 71 2" x 23"
Shelves (2)
1/2" x 4" x 183 4"
Porcelain Knob (1)
White, 1" Dia.
Theres no fancy nery to the cases corner joints (left); theyre just screwed and plugged butt joints at all four corners. The author
even chose to use screws to secure the cope and stick joints on the door (right). The rails and stiles are machined and test-tted
prior to assembly.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
33
34
Getting Started
It may be hard for some woodworkers to believe, but I dont
have a router nor a dado blade
for the table saw in my Nova
Scotia workshop, so I just made
three or four adjacent cuts with
a regular rip blade to form the
matching grooves in the stem.
How you form the long channel
is up to you, but it needs to be
sized to take a six-inch length of
3/8" threaded tubing which
is a standard size for most bulb
sockets. I recommend getting
your hardware before you begin
the project; it will avoid unpleasant surprises down the road if
you can test-t the parts as you
make them.
Put the tube in place when
you clamp up the stem, but its
important to leave enough of
the tube projecting so you can
secure the shade support (called
a harp) with a second nut as well
as the bulb socket. If you look
closely at the photos (center
left), it is clear that I used epoxy
to glue the two pieces together. The reason is that I mostly
build boats in my Nova Scotia
shop, and that is the adhesive
I had on hand. You could use
any good quality woodworking
glue to make the stem. To glue
the metal tube in place, technically epoxy or polyurethane
glue would be best, but even
white glue will likely hold the
tube well enough. To avoid glue
The author formed the opening for the threaded tube and lamp wire by making
multiple cuts on his table saw (top photos). A dado set would work well, as
would a router he had neither. Lay the threaded tubing in place before gluing
up the stem. Leave enough of the tube projecting so there is room for the shade
support (or harp), a second retaining nut and the bulb holder. The author
used epoxy as his adhesive, but any good quality wood glue would work as well.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
35
2
1
1
1
Foot Location
(Side View)
The lamps feet are attached to the
stem using glue and 3/8"-diameter
dowels. Dowel points are useful to
transfer the locations of the dowel
holes to the stem.
Stem Detail
3
Material /LVW
3
1 /4"
81/2"
TxWx3
13/16" x 15 8" x 48"
3/8" x 6"
5/8" x 458" x 11"
3/8" x 112"
Stem Layout
(End View)
15/8"
3
13
/8"
/16"
1
3
Exploded View
B
/16"
B
A
30
3
3
4
3
3/8" hole
for wire
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www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
37
It is an easy process to use a compass to strike lines that will give you the hexagon.
Bisect the square exactly in half and draw one full circle and then two half circles as
shown. Where the lines intersect, youll have the corners of the hexagon.
If you are using a hand plane to form the hexagon, youll need to mark the sides of
the stem with a marking gauge (photo at right). If you choose to cut the 30-degree
faces on the table saw, you will need to rip the two opposing surfaces at as shown in
the photo at left.
When cutting the hexagon on the table saw, you will need to
cut the four remaining angles from the two faces that were
ripped previously. That means ipping the stem end for end.
38
Form the lamps feet using a band saw. Orient the grain so that
it runs the length of the foot. This will add strength and avoid
short-grain failure. Rene the shape of the foot later with a
spokeshave and sander.
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www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
39
Foot Pattern
45/8"
11"
ain
Gr
Each square = 1
40
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www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
41
Kicking it Off
I chose to use Domino loose tenons for the majority of the joinery on these stools. But if you
dont own that tool, any loose
tenon process (except dowels)
will serve you very well.
Because I was designing
the bar stools essentially from
scratch, my rst work in the shop
was building a full-sized mock-up
from my rough sketches. From
there, I picked through my pile
of birds-eye to nd lumber with
the best gure and color. Once
youve surfaced it at and square
(and be careful it is prone to
tearout), rip stock for the leg
sections to width.
I cant overemphasize how
important it is to properly prepare the leg stock. When you
start to cut the miters that create
the shape of the legs, if your
stock is at all wonky, it will make
the rest of your work much harder. And speaking of the miter
cuts that are to come they, too,
have to be dead-on accurate.
42
Dowels
beadLOCK
Dominos
Shop-made
loose tenons
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
43
8
8
5
8
4
6
After the leg subassembly has been glued up, the loose tenon
mortises are cut into the ends of the legs. Transfer their locations
to the seat subassembly and cut the matching openings.
4
3
Primary Leg
Subassembly
6
5
2"
3"
(Front View)
3"
9
1
Exploded View
1
3
Footrest
1"
(End View)
/8" R.
The top of
the upper
secondary
crossover
block must 11"
align here.
The bottom
of the lower
secondary
crossover
block must
align here.
1"
91/2"
3"
Material /LVW
Lower Legs (4)
TxWx3
1" x 3" x 9"
8mm x 120mm
Footrests (4)
Dowels (2)
Lazy Susan (1)
44
9"
/4"
1" R.
/4"
Seats (3)
1"
3"
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Summer 2015
45
on a work surface in their correct orientation with the crossover blocks between the upper
leg segments (these pieces
will become the secondary leg
assembly). Square up the top
ends of the legs to each other
and then grab the primary leg
assembly and place it right on
top of the parts on the work surface. Now, here is the important
part: slide the crossover pieces
of the secondary leg assembly so
that their edges (the ones with
the dowel holes) align perfectly
to the crossover pieces on the
primary leg assembly. Carefully
remove the primary leg assembly and mark the locations of
the crossover pieces of the secondary assembly using the center lines you scribed on them
earlier. At this point, its time to
cut the mortises and dry-t the
secondary leg assembly to be
sure that it ts together properly.
The authors coworkers thought that the seat should swivel and spin,
so he added a lazy Susan to the last layer of the seat sandwich. The
recess needs to be slightly less deep than the bearings thickness.
Sitting Pretty
I made the seat components
(pieces 8) out of clear pine, but
any paintable lumber would
work. To make three identical
pieces for each stool, I used a
template and a pattern-routing
bit as shown in the left photo
above. Next, the appropriate
edges were rounded over, and
then the parts were glued and
screwed together. I spray-primed
the seats, then used gloss black
lacquer for the nal nish.
When it was dry, I transfered
the mortise location from the
leg assembly, and cut the matching mortises. Then I glued the
seat in place and applied a few
protective coats of Watco
Danish Oil, Natural,
to the legs.
The last step was
to make a long length
of the footrest stock
Gluing the two leg subassemblies
together is not hard, but it must
be done in a specic order. A
no-glue test run is a must.
(pieces 7), priming and lacquering it black like the seats. After
mitering each footrest to t, I
nailed it in place. A little black
lacquer over the nail holes made
them disappear.
When I brought my rst stool
to the ofce to show my staff,
they all agreed that I should
have made the seat spin like the
stools at a lunch counter. So I
made the second one with a lazy
Susan between the uppermost
seat layers. I have to admit it
works pretty well, but my rear
end still prefers the solid seat
concept. Thats a design choice
you can decide for yourself.
Rob Johnstone is publisher of
Woodworkers Journal.
MY CHOICE OF SHARPENER.
I sharpen my tools
not shorten them.
I have been a Tormek user for more than
15 years. Once you have a recipe for the
shape to suit your needs, it only takes
seconds to get the perfect cutting edge.
You are in perfect control and no
unnecessary steel is removed.
Sharp tools mean more efficient
working, a better finish,
less sanding ... and more fun!
Nick Agar
www.tormek.com
Dont miss the inspiring
video from our visit to
Nicks workshop!
WOODTURNING ARTIST
Devon, UK
For more information on Tormek call Affinity Tool Works Tel.1-800 586 7635 or visit www.tormek.com
NEW
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$14.99!
Summer 2015
47
After gluing up the blank from which the bowl will be made, the rst step is to
accurately mark a line down the center of the middle lamination.
For each angle needed, cut a small piece of hardwood at that angle. Smooth it on a
sander with a tilting table set to the same angle. Write the size of the angle on the
guide (middle left photo). In the middle right photo, the author is drilling the rst entry
hole using a guide. Bottom photo, shes making the rst scroll saw cut.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
49
50
11/2"
11/2"
1
53/4"
/2"
81/4"
/2"
Material /LVW
_ _ ^HSU\[
_ _ WHKH\R
_ _ THWSL
HUKZOVWTHKL
HUNSLN\PKLZ
First Ring
Blank
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
51
52
ts tradition to drape an
American ag over the casket
of a deceased U.S. forces veteran. Prior to burial, the ag is
removed, folded into a triangle
and presented, on behalf of a
grateful Nation, to the deceased
veterans next of kin. I know
this rsthand because my father
recently passed away, and our
family was given his burial ag.
My mother asked me to make
her a really nice case for Dads
ag. I responded without hesitation: Id be honored. And
even though this is an easy thing
to build, I still put my heart
into making it perfect, knowing
how proud my father would have
been with the results.
When my brother got wind of
my making Dads ag case, he
asked if I would make one for
his father-in-laws ag as well. So
I made two out of walnut, and I
used one board for each case. I
ended up with one case having all
dark and gured wood, and the
other having all lighter, straightgrained wood. Both are beautiful!
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
53
/2"
/4" Chamfer
/4"
/4"
/4" Chamfer
4
6
Material /LVW
Side
(Front View)
2
22.5
45
15 /16"
Bottom
(Front View)
TxWx3
Bottom (1)
3/4" x 3" x 251 8"
Sides (2)
3/4" x 3" x 17 3 4"
Front Bottom Molding (1) 1/2" x 11 8" x 251 8"
Front Side Moldings (2)
1/2" x 11 8" x 17 3 4"
Back (1)
1/4" x 1115 16" x 2315 16"
Glass (1)
Cut to fit the case
Flathead Screws (10) #6 x 3/4" Steel or brass
211/2"
22.5
22.5
the workpiece and the tenoning jigs table to keep the saw
blade far away from the jig, and
I screwed a backer board to the
tenoning jigs fence to reduce
tearout at the rear of the cuts.
I used a 1/8"-thick riser board,
which rests on the saws table
behind the blade and to the side of
the tenoning jig. When you clamp
your workpieces in the tenoning
jig, you do so with them on top of
the riser board, so the jig holds
everything 1/8" off of the saws
table, and the wood cant bind
against the table as you saw.
Use scrap wood to test your
table saw setup. Adjust the
blade-to-tenoning jig distance
so the cut makes a point on
the end of the workpiece without reducing its length. Cut the
Band clamps are a fast and sure way to clamp together the
bottom and sides of this complex shape. Place pieces of
cardboard under the bands at the corner joints to keep the
glue from smearing and the bands from binding.
Finishing Up
Make the front moldings (pieces 3 and 4) the same way you
made the case sides and bottom.
Cut the moldings 1/32" longer,
so when attached to the main
case, their edges will overhang
slightly. Covering the molding
end faces with masking tape
prior to cutting the 22 miters
greatly reduces tearout.
(KQ\Z[PUNKPTLUZPVUZMVYIODJ VL]HV
While its true that internment ags are all the same size,
there are plenty of folks out there with a ag that
isnt ying anymore, but still has some special
meaning to a family. Rather than fold it up in a
This simple
box, a ag case like the one built here can
formula will
become the perfect honored resting place
X help you build a
case to t your
for a treasured family heirloom. The
special ag.
Elevation Drawing at right shows
you the formula to use to decide on
your box dimensions. Remember,
2X
start with scrap wood and test the
The inside measurements are X and 2X
t of your folded ag.
(e.g., if X =10", then 2X = 20")
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
55
Bedroom Valet
Even this simply
made piece of
furniture required
significant design
work.
Cupboard
Settee
Shelves
Valet
Entry
Television
Making efcient use of a small space is most likely to happen
with intention. Here, the valet helps to make a small bedroom
more functional.
56
B e d r o o m Va l e t
The Way It Is
In the last section of this article,
Im going to take a step back to
examine what went on in making
this piece, because I believe its
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
57
Upper Back
Upright
Lower Front
Assembly
(Front View)
(Front View)
5"
6
5
6
8
15
11
18"
5
13
231/8"
12
(Top View)
/16"
Top Shelf
/16"
Front Leg
(Front View)
5
/16"
2 /8"
11
10
11
1
/4"
/16"
Exploded View
30"
2
157/16"
8
5
7
14
15
13
16
13
4
15
3
15
Front Leg
Assembly
(Section View)
15
Flush
25/8"
16
B e d r o o m Va l e t
1"
Material /LVW
TxWx3
112" x 25 8" x 82"
112" x 25 8" x 1618"
114" x 3" x 2134"
118" x 11 8" x 2134"
1116" x 23 16" x 2134"
1116" x 23 16" x 1314"
1116" x 23 16" x 6"
3/4" x 1618" x 2214"
3/4" x 1358" x 2214"
3/4" x 858" x 2214"
3/4" x 1" x 2358"
7/8" x 7/8" x 23"
1116" x 23 16" x 17"
1116" x 23 16" x 18"
1116" x 19 16" x 18"
114" x 23 8" x 1"
16
The collection of hand tools at the far left have been replaced in this project with the
tools in the far right photo ... could this presage a sea change in furniture making?
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
59
S l a b To p S o f a Ta b l e
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
61
Table
Leg
(Side View)
(Side View)
61/2"
1"
41/2"
Exploded View
2
27"
27"
12"
93/8"
Table
(Bottom View)
1"
95/8"
Center Line
1
1 /8"
54"
Material /LVW
Top (1)*
TxWx3
3" x 17" x 54"
Legs (4)
Stretchers (2)
62
Leg Placement
To
accurately
locate the legs on
the underside of
the tabletop, I rst
struck a line down the center of
the table. I worked from a center
line because the tabletops edges
were not straight and I couldnt
accurately measure from them. I
used a simple shop-made layout
tool for the next steps. It is just a
rectangular piece of 1/2" MDF
that has an accurately formed
45-degree cut on it. As shown
in the photo sequence on the
top of the next page, align the
mitered edge of the jig to the
*The width and thickness of the top may ]HYy a bit due
to the material that you will MPUK available to `V\
the previous page, you can clearly see that I applied some shellac
around the holes that were to
be lled. That shellac sealed the
grain so that I did not get an
unwanted halo of black Bondo
squeezed into the open-grained
ash. After I applied the Bondo,
it cured quickly and I sanded it
smooth. Sanding also removed
the shellac. With that done, I
was able to lay out the mortise
locations on the ends of the legs
S l a b To p S o f a Ta b l e
17"
After striking a center line down the length of the tabletop, the author made a layout jig with a 45 angle formed on one end.
Using the center line, he located the positions for the table legs as shown in the photo sequence above. After tracing around
the legs and taking off the mortise locations, our editor cut the mortises for the Domino loose tenons. Any loose-tenon system
(or even traditional mortise-and-tenon joints) would work well for attaching these legs.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
63
tiles are placed from all four corners, working inward. When I
got to the middle tile position(s)
of each row, the length of those
tiles had to be slightly adjusted
to t the opening.
The plywood frame is made of
3/8" Baltic birch overlaid with
1/4" Baltic birch. The combination of butt joints, lap joints, glue
and screws makes it bulletproof.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
65
66
Tiling Time
However you decide to make your
tiles, you need to make a whole
bunch of them. The number of
tiles indicated in the Material List
(pieces 9) is an approximate number. It is actually a few more than
you will need of that specic size,
but in this project making those
few extra pieces just makes sense.
It gives you a better choice of
tiles as you select them for placement. The center tiles (pieces 10)
will need to be adjusted to their
proper length after you have
put all the tiles of that row in
place ... then you will need to
measure the opening. (See the
Note on page 67.)
You may ask: Why cant I just
divide up the space of a row and
cut all the tiles perfectly sized
so there is no variation? Heres
the answer: even if you wanted
to work that hard, its extremely difcult to machine pieces
that accurately. The detail that
will come around to devil you is
called accumulated error. Lets
say that you make your tiles very
uniform, but they are off of their
length measurement by 1/64th
of an inch. While its a minute
amount, on the 12 tiles that form
the outside row, that error will
add up to 3/16" in a big hurry!
OK, try even harder and get to
within 1/128th of an inch ... and
you will still miss your mark by
almost 1/8" so you can see
why it is better to adjust the middle tiles in each row to t.
Make certain that your stock
is of uniform thickness before
you start cutting the tiles this
will save you a major headache
later on. Then cut your tiles to
Exploded View
10
8
3
9
5
Note: On the
frames top and
bottom tiling, the
inner and outer
rows have one
custom-sized tile
(pieces 10) and
the center row
has two.
On the frames
sides, the inner
and outer rows
have two customsized tiles and
the center row
has one.
10
7
7
4
4
10
5
10
2
1
3
7
1
8
Material List
ZDOQXW
TxWx3
3/8" x 21 2" x 22"
3/8" x 21 2" x 113 4"
1/4" x 21 2" x 163 4"
1/4" x 21 2" x 16"
1/4" x 1/2" x 163 4"
1/4" x 1/2" x 16"
5/8" x 1/4" x 22"
5/8" x 1/4" x 171 4"
1/4" x 1" x 2"
1/4" x 1" x 21 2"*
1/4" x 113 4" x 17"
Steel
Summer 2015
67
A Kitchen Workstation
This compact butlers workstation
with hardwood top will facilitate
many kitchen food prep tasks.
utler is a gment of my
imagination when it comes
to who will use this workstation in my home. There
are no hired servants here.
Nevertheless, a project of this
sort, if space allows for it in your
kitchen, is most useful for many
culinary tasks.
This little kitchen workstation
is easy to build but still rich in
details that make it easy to look
at as well. Start off by making
the glued-up tabletop, frequently
and incorrectly called a butcher block, laminated from native
hardwoods of any thickness.
(Butcher blocks are made with
the end grain as the work surface.) In this case, because the
edges of atsawn material show
as quartersawn when they are
glued up this way, it is a nice
opportunity to put to use all that
material that you kept because it
was too good to burn or throw
away. Even short pieces can be
bonded in, like bricks in a wall.
Glue the ve center pieces rst.
Once cured, add two pieces to
each side. I used Titebond III
rolled lightly onto each surface.
Continue to build outward in this
fashion to create the top blank.
Machine and/or hand plane the
top to its dimension. Finish it with
several coats of salad bowl oil.
A Kitchen Workstation
When making the legs, clamp the two glued pieces together
to form an L shape. My preference is clamping to the bench.
If necessary, leave a small overhang in the glue-up to avoid
mill-made shortcomings.
After the glue has cured, plane the two outer faces square
one to the other. This operation not only cleans up any
mill marks and possible excess glue, but it ensures that the
assembly will be square.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
69
The rabbeted
aspect of the
collars are mitered
back at 45.
(Section View)
13
/32"
/8"
(Top View)
(Top View)
/4"
Rabbet
19/16"
25/8"
3
7
/32"
Pieces 2 and 3 are
assembled prior to
forming the sockets.
Exploded View
Workstation Elevation
(Front View)
1
6
6
4
4
2
2
Leg Joint
Detail
5
5
5
2
3
/4"
(End View)
113/16"
Tabletop* (1)
Wide Leg Blanks (4)
Narrow Leg Blanks (4)
Top Rails (4)
Bottom Rails (4)
Collars (4)
Corner Gussets (4)
TxWx3
2 58" x 22" x 22"
1316" x 3" x 32"
3
1 16" x 11316" x 32"
3/4" x 258" x 1712"
1316" x 4" x 16"
3
1 16" x 214" x 1758"
3/8" x 6" x 6"
70
A Kitchen Workstation
/32"
Material /LVW
Leg
2
3"
/32"
/16"
/32"
/32"
When attaching the top rails, close the shoulders tight with a
clamp across the rail. Put a bottom rail between the legs for a
square assembly.
Drill pilot holes for the lag screws. Holding the drill upside down
makes it easier to align the bit with the clearance hole in the leg.
Clamp the
saddles to the
leg. Hold the
shoulders tight
with a bar clamp.
Make sure the
bottom edge of
the rail contacts
the saddle on
each side.
To join together
the collar pieces,
glue and nail the
plywood gussets
into the rabbets.
The collar
subassembly is
key to holding
the tabletop to
the leg assembly.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
71
72
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo 5
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
73
full-size SDWWHUQ
Center Line
Rear Framework
(1/4" x 1/4")
5"
31/2"
74
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13/8"
/8"
13/8"
13/4"
1"
/8"
11/2"
71/8"
1 /4"
13/8"
This 5/8"-deep
scissors notch is
formed after the three
pieces are assembled.
51/4"
First cut
These two cuts are
made before the
three pieces are
assembled.
Second
cut
41/8"
33/4"
41/8"
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
77
78
Ta m b o u r - To p F o l d i n g Ta b l e
A Note About
Material Selection
Build the project from a stable, dried wood with clear, even
grain. Ive had good results with
Honduras mahogany, white oak,
alder and vertical-grain Douglas
r. The stability of the canvas-backed top depends on the
straightness of the slats, so avoid
woods with fancy grain that are
prone to warping.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
With the jointer set to take a 1/8"deep cut, get started by rabbeting
a 1/4"-wide lip on the edge of each
table leg blank.
Summer 2015
79
Breakdown 6WHSV
wide end of the legs. Rout only
the legs non-rabbeted sides.
80
Ta m b o u r - To p F o l d i n g Ta b l e
Shape the
Legs and the
Aprons on
<our 7able 6DZ
up. First, mark the outline of the
screwdriver on the inside face of
one of the long aprons. At one
end of the zigzag outline, add a
1/2"-diameter circle for a nger
recess. At the center of the outline, drill a hole 7/16" deep for
a 1/2" rare-earth magnet (piece
4). Use a trim router tted with
a 1/4"-diameter straight bit to
rout a 5/16"-deep screwdriver
recess. Install the magnet in its
pocket with cyanoacrylate glue
or epoxy.
Use a simple jig cut from a piece of plywood to taper each leg on your table saw.
Turn to a shop-made high-rise jig to dado the hinge sockets in the ends
of the aprons.
To keep the assembly screwdriver handy, the author routed a recess on the inside of
an apron and then drilled a small hole for a button magnet to keep it in place.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
81
82
Ta m b o u r - To p F o l d i n g Ta b l e
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Drill hinge pin holes through the short aprons and join the folding apron assembly
with 8-32 athead screws threaded into T-nuts.
Use a dado blade to cut a 1/32 recess in the T-nut area at both ends of
each short apron.
Use a small vise to slowly drive the T-nut home into its hole in the apron.
84
Ta m b o u r - To p F o l d i n g Ta b l e
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Summer 2015
85
10
11
10
12
4
3
2
6
5
6
3
1
Exploded View
1
1
1
9
/4"
/8"
1" R.
Material /LVW
Leg
(Side,Top
and Bottom
Views)
TxWx3
Legs (4)
3/4" x 2" x 151 2"
Long Aprons (2)
5/8" x 3" x 21"
Short Aprons (2)
5/8" x 3" x 141 4"
Rare-Earth Magnet (1)
1/2" Dia.
Hinge Knuckles (4)
5/8" x 11 2" x 11 4"
Leg/Apron Pivot Screws (4) 1/4" x 11 4" Flathead
Threaded Inserts (4)
1/4"
T-Nuts (4)
8-32
Apron Hinge Pivot Screws (4) 8-32 x 3" Flathead
Outer Top Slats (2)
1/2" x 3" x 24"
Inner Top Slats (8)
1/2" x 11 2" x 24"
Canvas Backing (1)
15" x 24"
151/2"
/8"
5
/8"
/4"
2"
10
3"
11/2"
3
11
/4"
/8"
3"
/4"
21"
11/2"
Knuckle
/4"
/8"
Slight recess
1 /2"
10
3"
/4"
24"
86
Ta m b o u r - To p F o l d i n g Ta b l e
141/4"
3"
5
/8"
5
11/4"
11/2"
7HNL
5V
>LI(KKYLZZ
(K]LY[PZLY
7HNL
5V
>LI(KKYLZZ
1-800-BunkBed
25
www.1800bunkbed.com/wj
37
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3M
19
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Grobet USA
25
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39
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37
www.howardproducts.com
25
www.americanfabriclter.com
41
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37
www.steelspan.com
Lignomat
25
Aqua Coat
45
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www.lignomat.com
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Armor Crafts
45
www.armorplans.com
91
www.mirkaderos.us
Badger Hardwoods of
Wisconsin, Ltd.
19
www.badgerwood.com
Preval
13
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BLOKKZ, Inc.
39
www.blokkz.com
Quick Screws
29
www.quickscrews.com
85
www.struckcorp.com/?wj615
28
www.cherrytreetoys.com
Rockler Woodworking
and Hardware
41
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Rojek
41
www.cookssaw.com
3, 13, 19 www.woodencomponents.com
9, 85 www.rockler.com
13
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Sandits
www.sandits.com
29
www.satausa.com
41
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SENCO
www.senco.com
39
www.cuwoodshop.com
39
www.southeasttool.com
37
www.easywoodtools.com
SuperMax Tools
92
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Tormek
47
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19
www.fujispray.com
19
www.westpennhardwoods.com
Furniture Medic
29
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Woodworkers Source
19
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Epilog Laser
3, 25 www.epiloglaser.com/wwj
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Summer 2015
87
Set all the slats into the jig in the correct order, clamp on the
end hold-down strip, and clamp the slats lightly together.
Carefully set the canvas onto the slats at one end, then lay it
down gradually, to avoid trapping any air bubbles.
Center the apron assembly on the tabletop in the jig and score
through the canvas along the inside of the long aprons.
Scrape and pull off the excess canvas along the long edges of the top.
Trim the canvass other edges after trimming the top to nal length.
Take the top out of the jig and trim both edges on the table
saw, rst using the miter gauge, then the rip fence.
88
Cut out the canvas, then brush or roll a thin coat of yellow glue
on the slats and one side of the canvas.
Ta m b o u r - To p F o l d i n g Ta b l e
With the apron assembled, glue and clamp the long aprons to
the underside of the completed tambour top.
NEW!
www.woodworkersjournal.com
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Summer 2015
89
.45 caliber
cartridge tray
makes a great
1/2" shank
bit holder.
Plastic bullet divider trays make excellent router bit holders, says one
of our readers. He uses them both to store his bits and to keep similar
bit styles or sets together. He nds .45 caliber holders perfect for storing 1/2"-shank bits; .38 caliber carriers are just right for 3/8" shanks,
and either .17 or .22 caliber sizes work well for holding 1/4" bits. If
youre not a shooter, inquire with a local gun club, gun supplies store
or at a shooting range. Most throw them away, so they could be free.
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