WoodcraftJune July 2020

Choosing the right TABLE SAW BLADE
Projects, Techniques and Products
Build this
COUNTER-
HEIGHT
STOOL
Plus…
■ Specialized
storage for table
saw blades
■ Making and
setting up
featherboards
■ The historic
US Senate desk
Table of Contents
June/July 2020 | Issue 95
Projects 32 Counter-height Stool
Check out angled joinery made easy! This distinctive perch in
white oak and walnut is as fun to build as it is comfortable to use.
44 Build a Blade Safe

Keep your collection of expensive table saw blades
safe, organized, and accessible in this wall-hung
armory designed specifically for the job.
Tools & 28 Featherboards

Techniques Put these time-honored accessories to use on your
table saw and router table to ensure cutting accuracy
while keeping your fingers out of harm’s way.
41 Choosing the Right Table Saw Blades

Overwhelmed by table saw blade choices?
Not to worry. We’ll help you compile an arsenal
that suits your needs without breaking the bank.
44
32
2
Departments
28 41
04 Contributors
06 Getting Sharp
• The solace of the shop
08 Profile
• Megan Offner
12 News & Views

• Safety Reminder
• Tip addendum
• Hard to read
• Wood and...
• That looks familiar
• Bonding over glue-ups
• Shooting for perfection
18 Readers Showcase
20 52
20 Hot New Tools
• Triton Oscillating
Spindle & Belt Sander
• Leigh Through Dovetail Jig
24 Tips & Tricks

• Small parts hold-down
• Zero-clearance chop
saw overlay
• Flush-routing risers
• Flattening a plane sole
52 Famous Furniture
• U.S. Senate Desk
54 WoodSense
• Canarywood
56 Great Gear
• Pinnacle spokeshaves
56
• The 5-in-1 driver
58 Expert Answers
• Dovetail Anatomy 101
54
60 Looking Ahead
62 Buyer’s Guide/Ad Index
64 Outfeed
• There’s always one more
Cover photo: Ken Burton June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

Contributors
We’re pleased to announce our newest Woodcraft

Magazine team member, Brad Weekley. As our
art director, Brad will help blend words, photos,
and illustrations into the engaging, easy-to-read
woodworking articles you count on us to deliver. Brad
brings 20 years of graphic design experience, having West Virginia woodworker Bill Sands retired from GE
worked for a blues magazine, a large outdoor catalog Research & Development in 1998 and expanded a latent
company, and an international marketing firm. interest in woodworking. He is a regular contributor to
“When not working, you can find me with friends and Woodcraft Magazine, having built several projects for us
family in the great outdoors, hunting, fishing, camping, over the years. See Bill’s hanging cabinet (p. 44) for storing
or simply rambling through the woods,” Brad says. “Being your table saw blade collection. When not in the shop, Bill
outdoors clears my mind and ignites my creativity.” He enjoys photographing his outdoor adventures, all facets
lives in Middlebourne, WV with his wife and two kids. of BBQ cooking, and sharing good ale with friends.
A Vietnam War veteran, “I’ve always been interested

Jim Osborn began his in woodworking,” explains
photography career John Hartman, the
after mustering out of artist whose drawings
the Marines. “I landed a grace the Counter-height
job processing film for a Stool article on p. 32.
printing company. Before “After graduating from the
long I was working as a Kansas City Art Institute,
photographer’s assistant. I I found myself admiring
was able to start my own photography business in 1977.” the technical drawings in
Jim has proven to be especially talented at captur- Fine Woodworking and Scientific American, while applying
ing a wide variety of woodworking activities; his my woodworking knowledge to restore and rebuild grand
photos have been in the magazine since issue #1. pianos. Since then, I’ve been putting my tools to use building
Recently, he photographed the blade safe construc- furniture and other things around the house” he says.
tion you’ll find on p. 44. These days, he makes his home Recent projects include a garden gate, a kitchen island, and
in Washington, WV, with his wife and three kids. wooden storm windows. John lives in Springfield MA. n
4
Getting Sharp Share your ideas.
We love hearing from readers! And there are all
The solace of the shop

kinds of reasons to get in touch with the crew at
Woodcraft Magazine. Check out the details below.
General information:
S
4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A
tanding in my back yard, I’m struck required to skillfully execute beauti-
P.O. Box 7020
by the beauty of spring. Win- ful projects. Lack of distraction can Parkersburg, WV 26102
ter’s dismal grey has finally yielded contribute to organized stock prep, 800-542-9125
to vibrant tulips, peonies, and wild precise joinery, flawless finishing, and Share a slick tip to win cash or a prize.
violets. Bees buzz around my feet, everything in between. And in the Here’s your chance to help someone become
birds soar overhead, and squirrels process, it offers a certain amount a better woodworker and get rewarded for the
effort. Published tips become the
scurry across rooftops. This Spring’s of peace in a pandemic. To top it off,
property of Woodcraft Magazine.
symphonic bloom is all the more the shop is one place where it doesn’t
Email us at [email protected] and
pronounced because it’s not compet- feel strange to wear a face mask!
put “Tips & Tricks” in the subject line or visit
ing with the usual hum and bustle Perhaps you require respite from woodcraftmagazine.com, and click on Contact.
of modern life. Instead, darkened relentless news. Or maybe you’re just
Important: Please include your phone number,
buildings, vacant parking lots, and the looking for some time away from as an editor may need to call you if your
occasional lonely car cruising the road family. Whatever the reason for your trick is considered for publication.
evoke an eerie post-apocalyptic flick. escape to the shop, we have plenty to Have a tough woodworking question?
Under quarantine, many of us are keep you busy. Build the stool on p. 32. We’ll do our best to find the expert and provide the
unable to go to work, enjoy a meal Construct a case to house your saw answer. Email us at [email protected]
out, or simply gather with friends blades (p. 44). Improve shop safety by and put “Expert Answers” in the subject line.
and family. The COVID-19 crisis making featherboards (p. 28). Learn News & Views:
has upended our normal lives and how to work a new wood (p. 54), or This catch-all column is where we do our best
to correct mistakes, publish feedback from readers,
overwhelmed us with the loss of bone up on a little furniture-related
and share other noteworthy news items. It’s easy to
certain freedoms, jobs, and sometimes U.S. history (p. 52). And don’t let participate in this discussion. Just email us at
loved ones. The pandemic seems to social distancing prevent you from [email protected] and
have the planet wobbling on its axis meeting new woodworkers (p. 4 & 8). put “N&V” in the subject line.
while we struggle to keep standing. Enjoy your shop time, and use it Submit an article idea:
With a world out of order, it’s wisely. Let creativity be your conta- Do you have a story idea? We’d love to hear about it.
To find out how to submit an article, email us at
comforting to have the solace of a gion, and try to spread positivity. Get
[email protected] and put
shop. And since woodworking tends active. Be present. Stay engaged. And “Submission” in the subject line.
to be a solitary affair by nature, it although you may be spending more
Share photos of your projects:
actually suits quarantine rather time by yourself, remember that we’re We’d like to see what you’re building. To show off your
nicely. If we like, we can seize the all in this together. Stay vigilant and work send your photos to [email protected],
opportunity to really focus on our healthy, my fellow woodworkers. or find us on social media.
craft. Protracted isolation allows
practicing the presence of mind
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June/July 2020 Vol. 16, Issue 95 (800) 542-9125 ©2020 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC. All rights reserved.
Woodcraft Supply, LLC allows the purchaser of this magazine
Chief Editor: Chad McClung Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN: 1553.2461, USPS to photocopy the included projects and techniques solely for
Senior Editor: Paul Anthony, Ken Burton personal use. Any other reproduction of these projects and
024-953) is published bimonthly (Dec/Jan, Feb/Mar,
techniques is strictly prohibited.
Art Director: Brad Weekley April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov) by Woodcraft
Publisher: Gary Lombard Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A, Parkersburg, WV
Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous. Always make
Advertising Sales Manager: Vic Lombard 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Printed in the United States. shop safety your first priority by reading and following the
Periodicals postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, recommendations of your machine owner’s manuals, using
Circulation Support: Christie Wagner, Robin Cross
and at additional mailing offices. appropriate guards and safety devices, and maintaining all
Office Manager: Connie Harmon
your tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing protection.
Circulation: NPS Media Group POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Please note that for purposes of illustrative clarity, guards and
Web Support: Jessica Loyer Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, other safety devices may be removed from tools shown in
Video Producers: Frank Byers, Kevin Reed Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. photographs and illustrations in this publication.
6
Profiles
WM: How did you get asking me to make finished

from knowing you had products. Eileen Fisher
to change your career to contracted us early on to
actually getting a new make seasonal displays
business off the ground? for all 65 of their women’s
clothing stores. And
MO: I took courses increasingly people wanted
in Permaculture and tables made from the slabs
Sustainable Building and we were selling. I found
Design at the Yestermorrow a space in Kingston, N.Y.
Design/Build School, and hired Marcus Soto, a
in Vermont. Friends woodworker with fifteen
then invited me to help years of furniture-making
with a natural building experience. He’s largely
project, where I met Dave responsible for the designs
Washburn. He had managed in the collection we
a 50-acre wood lot for 40 launched in 2017. With the
years. Dave invited me to success of the fabrication
join a workshop on how to side of our business, we
MEGAN
convert dying and diseased stopped milling our own
trees into flooring and other wood about four years ago
products. By the end of that and now source lumber and
week, I absolutely knew this slabs from local sawyers
OFFNER
was the kind of work I was who share our ethos.
meant to do. Two weeks Having done everything
later, Dave introduced me needed to transform a tree
to Jed Bark, a fine art framer into finished furniture, I’m
who had 70 acres of woods increasingly overseeing that
and a WoodMizer that he process so our clients can
Woodworker of the Urban Forest hardly used. He trained have the trees they enjoyed
Dave and me to use the mill. live on as furniture in their
T
he 2010 Victoria’s Secret fashion show was the last straw Nine months later I moved homes. It’s an incredibly
for Megan Offner, who was helping to build the sets. She to Warwick, N.Y. (where rewarding way to work.
had been doing that kind of design/build work in New the WoodMizer was) to do
York City for the better part of a decade, but was increasingly New York Heartwoods full WM: How would you
uncomfortable with the notion that trees were cut down for time. It really felt fated. I describe the wood you use?
material to make things that would end up in a dumpster after didn’t really have a plan,
only eight hours. So she set about changing careers, learning how I just kept following the MO: Most of the wood we
to wrangle a portable bandsaw mill and how to rescue perfectly opportunities that were use is milled from trees
usable trees that would otherwise be landfilled or ground into presenting themselves. that have fallen in storms
mulch. Today, she runs New York Heartwoods LLC, one of a or from urban removals
number of companies that try to make the most of the resources WM: How has your here in the Hudson Valley.
in the urban forest. Working in a spacious shop in Kingston, N.Y., business changed? Some of the most beautiful
she and her associates now make custom furniture and store hardwoods in the world
displays, using rescued wood from a network of local sawyers. MO: At first, I was just grow in the Northeastern
“I’m so grateful to have a beautiful, creative life making things milling and selling wood U.S., but so many trees
that can actually benefit nature,” she says. and slabs. Pretty quickly, just get cut into firewood,
—David Heim however, people began chipped, or landfilled.
8 Photos: David Heim

Besides being mindful of
the material we use, we’re
also mindful of how we
use it. We developed a
line of accessories to use
up beautiful scraps. We
donate leftover wood to
a local wood-fired bread
maker. Our sawdust goes
to farmers and pit-firing
ceramicists. We hardly
throw away anything. Hidden hazard. A massive slab destined to be made into a kitchen
table contains a chunk of concrete, which stopped the sawmill blade.
WM: You’ve found
everything from ant
colonies to barbed wire it’s $25 to replace a blade. sustainable furniture. I’ll be
inside the trees you’ve Portable bandsaw mills are consulting with architects
milled. Isn’t that risky? really helping the urban and designers to help them
wood industry to grow. transform trees into site-
MO: Urban trees often based designs. And we’ll
have metal in them, so they WM: You’ve been in be offering more classes,
rarely have commercial business for ten years. especially to women and
value. The circular saw Where would you like to gender non-conforming
blades that larger mills use be ten years from now? folks. I had few female
are prohibitively expensive mentors, but they helped
to replace. Small bandmill MO: We’ll be milling and me learn because I could
blades, however, are pretty drying our own wood see myself in them. I
cheap so there’s less risk. If again, and we’ll have a want to be able to provide
you hit something, at most wildly successful line of that for others. n
What to know before you mill

Megan Offner has some advice if you think you want to mill a tree into boards:
First, check for rot and metal. Mushrooms growing at the base are a sign
that the tree may not be completely sound. Once the logs are on the ground,
check for blue/gray spots or streaks that are created by metal in the tree.
Second, plan out the logistics. Do you have a flat area where
the sawyer can set up the mill? Make sure the tree service knows
the length of the log you want, and make sure the sawyer knows the
thickness of the boards and slabs. Unless you plan to air-dry and work Saved seat. Offner fabricates and
with the wood yourself, know who will cart the wood off to be dried. sells a small collection of furniture,
Third, understand the costs you’ll incur for this work. In the end, it may including this dining chair that
be more than you’d pay at a lumberyard, depending on the amount of wood being is largely based on designs by
milled, the dimensions you need (slabs and wide boards are generally higher Marcus Soto. The chair shows
in value and better candidates for custom milling) and how far it needs to be the beautiful grain and figure
transported. The more you can mill at once, the more cost-effective it will be. that rescued wood can deliver.
June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 9

Tips &&Tricks
News Views
Safety reminder
I noticed in the Feb/Mar 20 issue a few photos of
woodworkers wearing wedding rings. In my first shop
class and in every one thereafter, the instructor threat-
ened to fail anyone found to be wearing any jewelry.
We old-timers should remove all jewelry as second
nature; but newbies may need to be reminded.
—James Henley, Dayton, Ohio
Chief editor Chad McClung replies:

You’re right. It’s a smart practice to remove rings
and other jewelry when working with power
tools. Your eagle-eye is keeping us honest.
Tip addendum
I enjoyed Edwards Smith’s
12 Tips for Success at
Craft Shows (issue 93).
I’ve been in the craft show
circuit for the last few
years, and Mr. Smith’s
tips are right on. I would
offer only the following
addendum to Tip #11 – Provide Printed Material: I issue
a Certificate Of Authenticity with each item I make. The
certificate states details about the item such as the type of
wood, finish etc., and is signed and dated. It’s well received
by my customers, and adds to the value of their purchase.
—Gene Rugh, Wright City, MO
12
Tips News
& Tricks
& Views
Hard to read
Please use black ink for text and not red or other
colors to look trendy. Some sections of the April/
May 2020 edition are difficult to read.
—Lynn Heer, via e-mail
Wood and…
For 27 years, the Wharton Esherick Museum in Paoli,
PA has sponsored a themed woodworking competition.
These juried exhibitions have historically focused on a
piece of furniture (a stool, or lamp, for example) that
Esherick himself had made. This year’s theme, however,
is much broader, focusing on wood’s interplay with other
materials. How might you complete the phrase “Wood
and…”? Wood and glass? Wood and plastic? Wood and
silver? The possibilities are endless! The deadline for
entries is July 1, 2020. The show opens in mid-September
and runs through the Christmas season. Visit vwww.
whartonesherickmuseum.org for more information.
—staff
14
Tips News
& Tricks
& Views
That looks familiar

RIKON’s “new” saw featured in the April/May issue Shooting for perfection
(p. 13) looks a lot like the Craftsman I’ve had for a few
years. And I think Ridgid makes one too. But whether I enjoyed the 3-in-1 Shooting Board article (p. 26) in the
it is RIKON, Rigid, or Craftsman I can attest to the April/May 2020 issue. However, as I consider the accuracy
veracity of Mr. Snyder’s review. It has been a rock-solid of this process, I suspect that the design relies on proper
saw, does everything I ask of it, and is much better plane adjustment to cut squarely. Could you discuss a
than what is usually called a “contractor” saw. method to perfectly square the blade to the plane body?
—Steve Robinson, Hagerstown, Maryland I look forward to shaving pieces by a few thousandths.
—Bill Sherman, via email
Your review of the RIKON 10" Contractor saw reminded
me a lot of my Craftsman. But it seems to me, based on Craig Bentzley replies
the descriptions in the Expert Answers section (p. 68), Start by ensuring that the blade is sharp and that its
that the Rikon should be classified as a hybrid saw. business edge is square to its sides. Then, advance the
—Mike Bracket, via email blade and inspect its relation to the sole. To do this,
hold the plane upside down and sight down its length
RIKON product manager Rod Burrow replies: to laterally adjust the blade to be parallel (side-to-side)
Most saws originating from the Asian market share to the sole. Finally, take a few swipes on the edge of a
common lineage but are made in different factories. piece of scrap and check the board with an accurate
RIKON uses the term contractor for saws with an open machinist’s square, and adjust accordingly. n
stand, built-in mobility, and that are light enough to
take to a jobsite. Hybrid saws are usually heavier with
a more enclosed cabinet. The similarities between
our contractor saw and a typical hybrid are motor
How to reach us
horsepower and trunnions mounted to the table.
Email
[email protected]
Bonding over glue-ups Direct Mail

I just read “The 5 Stages of Gluing-Up” on page 72 of the Woodcraft Magazine, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,
Feb/Mar 2020 issue. It’s perfect. I’m glad to know that I’m Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV, 26102-7020.
not the only one who feels this way. A similar article could Please include your full name, address, and phone number.
be written about finishing. Glue-ups and finishing give me Published letters are edited for length and clarity.
the most anxiety in the shop. Keep up the good work.
—Kyle Meyer, Parkersburg, WV
16
Reader Showcase
RUSS SVENDSEN,
OLEAN, NY
Uke-an do it. Russ liked Doug
Stowe’s Box Guitar (Oct/Nov 2018)
so much that he made this cigar box
ukulele for his grandson. “Got to get
them started early,” Russ says. We
think he means kids playing music,
not smoking cigars. Russ used
mahogany for the neck to match
the cigar box. The fingerboard is
kiln dried granadillo that he
got from a luthier supplier.
GARY STEPHENS, CHESAPEAKE, VA

Honoring our nations parks. Stephens modified our June/July 2019 cover
project as a gift for his park-loving pals. In addition to gluing on dyed stars,
he drilled holes to accommodate each commemorative quarter. The US Mint
has a few more coins to issue to account for each park, but Stephens kept
that in mind. For one final flourish, he attached an engraved nameplate.
BRIAN BASS, BOISE, ID

Latchkey container. Boise boxmaker Brian Bass is obsessed with
combining form and function. This cleverly designed box features a
top with a dovetailed latch that locks with rare earth magnets. Bass
finished this walnut and red birch box using Danish oil and wax. n
GREGORY MOODY, PENSACOLA, FLORIDA
Handmade therapy. Woodworking is therapy for disabled Show off your work!
vet Moody. This curly cherry hall table is his second project
made using only hand tools. It features accents of end Email Direct Mail
grain bamboo (from repurposed flooring) and mortise [email protected] Woodcraft Magazine,
4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A, Box 7020,
and tenon and miter joinery both pinned with handmade Parkersburg, WV, 26102-7020.
bamboo dowels. The top floats above a cross lapped
Go to woodcraft.com/gallery for submission instructions.
“X.” Moody used Crystalac semi-gloss for the finish.
18
Overview
Hot New Tools • 3.5 amp motor
• 2000 rpm spindle
• 480 RPM belt
Sander for the space-starved and

• 58 OPM
• Spindle drums: 2" 11⁄2" 1" 3⁄4" 1⁄2"
budget-conscious woodworker
• Belt size: 4 × 24"
• 11⁄2" dust port, side-mounted
• Table size: 17 × 16
Triton Oscillating Spindle and Belt Sander, TSPST 450 • Tilted size: 8 × 16"
Triton’s newest benchtop sander offers spindle nut with the supplied wrench use. When it is in use, the 3.5 amp
two capable sanders in one convenient, and remove the spindle washer that motor provides plenty of power.
clever package. It’s essentially an holds the drum. Slide the drum off The cast aluminum table splits in
oscillating spindle sander with the shaft and replace it in the onboard half with the front portion tilting
the added functionality of a small, rack. Remove the matching slotted down for angled sanding. Protractor-
stationary belt sander. And because throat plate and the table insert. Drop style trunnions on the sides allow
the 4 × 24" belt sander attachment the belt attachment on the spindle any angle (between 0° and 45°) by
mounts to the same drive shaft as the shaft, place its washer, tighten the tightening their knobs. The right
spindle, the belt oscillates as it runs, knob and you’re ready to sand. trunnion features indents at 15°,
a feature not found on a typical belt The TSPST 450 is completely self- 22.5°, 30°, and 45° that snap onto a
sander. In addition to the belt, the contained; no extra tools required. metal switch mounted to the base.
unit includes the necessary drums All the necessary parts come in the A 11/2" dust port under the table works
and five 80-grit sanding sleeves. box and store on the machine. And better in spindle mode than belt sander
Switching from spindle to belt at under 30 lbs., it’s light enough mode. But then again, belt sanding
mode is a simple matter. Unscrew the to tuck out of the way when not in throws much more dust. (Always wear
DIGITAL
COLLECTION
VOLUME 2 (ISSUES 32-61)
30 issues packed with projects and
instructions on how to build them.
PLUS...
Techniques, Tool reviews, Jigs,
Projects, and Tips & Tricks
To order product #161370 visit www.woodcraft.com
or visit your local Woodcraft store.
20
Cast aluminum Belt sander Table insert removes for
table fence belt sander attachment
11⁄2" dust port
All drums, throat Belt sander

plates, and tools
come in the box and
store on the machine.
Indents for
a mask and use an air filtration system tilting table
in addition to your at-source collec- at 15, 22.5,
30, and 45°.
tion when sanding.) Suction through
the finger hole for the table insert
made sanding thinner plywood pieces
a little challenging. As you’ve prob-
Knobs lock table at
ably experienced, it takes only a brief any angle between
pause to introduce a divot. This wasn’t 0 and 45°.
a concern with thicker workpieces.
On the whole, this compact machine Wrench
is great for rough sanding and shap-
ing. If your space is tight and your
wallet light, consider this neat, nifty Triton - 450W Oscillating Spindle and Belt Sander
package that’s easy and fun to use. #170035, $234.99
—Tester, Chad McClung
Photos: Chad McClung June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 21

Tips Hot
& Tricks
New Tools
Dead simple dovetails

Leigh TD330 Through Dovetail Jig
For many woodworkers, necessary bits and bush- pins into the tailboard’s To say something is
cutting a perfect through ing, and a couple of stops - pin sockets and set the pin dead simple is usually
dovetail joint is a rite everything you need except stop. Clamp the jig to a an overstatement. But in
of passage. Now, for an for a couple of minor items: second test board, and rout this case, it may actually
investment of about a some clamps and a simple the pins and check the fit. be an understatement.
hundred dollars and a shop-made MDF beam. If your setup is a little off, This jig has no knobs or
couple of hours, even a Some assembly is required, Leigh’s innovative “ebush- clamps to figure out or
budding woodworker can but it’s easy to do and goes ing” can tighten or loosen confusing ways to mount
show off their dovetail a long way in helping you the fit of your joint by a boards. You can’t change
skills to friends and family. understand how the jig thousandth of an inch at a the dovetail spacing and
Canadian toolmaker works. To start, fasten a time. This special widget is are limited to boards under
Leigh Tools makes it stone test board in your vise, and elliptical, unlike a typical 13" wide. But what the
simple with their new clamp the jig to the board’s round bushing. Rotating it TD330 lacks in versatil-
through dovetail jig. end. Rout the tails first, set- subtly changes the rela- ity it more than makes up
Veteran woodworkers ting a stop for repeatability. tionship of the bit to the for in value. Its low cost,
will find a lot to like, too. Then unclamp the jig, but template, affecting the fit. ease-of-use, and simple
Leigh provides a through leave the tailboard in the You can also use the jig (and setup are hard to ignore. n
dovetail template, the vise. Now, fit the template’s ebushing) at the router table. —Tester, Chad McClung
22
Jig template
MDF beam
8° dovetail bit
Pin
wrench ⁄2" straight bit
1
Side stop
Elliptical
guide
bushing
Overview
• Through dovetails only
• Comes with 8° dovetail bit,
1
⁄2" straight bit, and Leigh’s
e10 Elliptical Guide Bushing
• Accommodates boards
from 11⁄8" to 127⁄8" wide
and 1⁄8" to 13⁄16" thick
• Can join boards of
different thicknesses Available at leightools.com, but look for the Leigh TD330 on Woodcraft shelves soon.

Tips & Tricks
Flush-routing risers
I recently built a large slab table that
required a lot of epoxy filling. I devised
this router jig to help with the leveling
of the hardened epoxy. The jig consists
of four polycarbonate pieces screwed Epoxy lump to be 1"-dia. guide bushing
to a couple of maple risers as shown, routed flush to surface.
creating a 11⁄2 × 6" opening in the
center. To use the jig, I first outfit my 3
⁄4"-dia. straight bit
router with a 3/4" -diameter straight
bit and a 1"-diameter guide bushing.
Then I position the jig over a lump of
hardened epoxy and place the router
atop the jig with the bushing corralled Spacer
by the polycarbonate. After adjusting ⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 2"
1
the bit to just skirt the surface of the

work, leveling the epoxy is a simple
matter of pushing the router back and
forth, moving the jig, and repeating. Polycarbonate sheet Wooden riser
—David Diaman, Bel Air, MD 1
⁄4 × 3 × 10" 1
⁄2 × 2 × 15"
Zero-clearance chop saw overlay

Here’s a great accessory for minimizing tearout
when making 90° cuts on your power miter
saw. Start with a 48" length of 1/2" hardwood Fence Plywood panel
1
⁄2" T.
plywood with one dead-straight edge. Make its
overall width about 4" more than the crosscut
capacity of your saw. Leave the center section
of this platform 16" wide, but taper the ends
back to form wings as shown. Glue a fence to
the panel’s rear edge, making sure its face is
square to the surface of the panel. Center the
completed overlay on the saw and clamp it in
place. Next, drill and countersink a 1/4"-diameter 24"
hole through each end of the platform into the Min. 16"
saw’s fixed extension tables. Drop a 1/4" flathead
machine screw into each hole to secure and
locate the platform. Done. I remove the overlay 4"
when making angled cuts, which would chew up
the fence. To reinstall it, I just slip the machine
screws in place—no nuts or clamps needed.
—Mark Spurn, Indianapolis, IN
24 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

Tips Tips
& Tricks
& Tricks
Small parts hold-down

Even with a crosscut sled, trimming
small parts on my table saw requires
placing my fingers uncomfortably close
to the blade. For safety, I made this
simple handheld hold-down, which
consists of a riser block screwed to a
beam. The beam provides downward
pressure on a workpiece while
keeping my hands out of harm’s way.
To maximize workpiece contact, the
Workpiece
thickness of the riser should equal
the workpiece thickness. To increase
Hold-down beam
stability and grip, I glued thin rubber 3
⁄4 × 13⁄4 × 15"
scraps to the undersides of the riser
and beam end. The hold-down also
works to secure small pieces at my Hold-down
riser block
power miter saw. It’s helpful to have at Rubber pads on beam and riser
for holding power and stability.
the ready several of these hold-downs,
with risers of different thickness.
—Bill Schneider, Athens, OH
Share a Slick Tip. Win Cash or a Prize!

Flattening a Here’s your chance
plane sole
to help someone
become a better
woodworker and get
Flattening a plane sole typically involves rewarded for the
rubbing it on an abrasive that’s sitting atop effort. The winner
a dead-flat surface like a cast iron table of next issue’s
saw wing or slab of reference granite. For
abrasive, I’ve used wet/dry carborundum
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receive a Woodcraft
$250
paper, but it seems to lose its aggressiveness Gift Card worth
pretty quickly. Alternatively, I’ve used silicon $250. All others will receive
carbide powder, but that can undesirably $125 for a published illustrated tip, or $75 for a non-illustrated tip.
abrade my reference surface. I finally Published tips become the property of Woodcraft Magazine.
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approach. I start off with carborundum Send your ideas to:
paper attached with spray adhesive. Tips & Tricks, Woodcraft Magazine,
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—Paul Walco, Toledo, OH as an editor may need to call you if your trick is considered for publication.
26
FEATHERBOARDS
Use these fingers to keep your own out of harm’s way
By Paul Anthony
F
eatherboards, also called finger- tively, it can be mounted onto the fence away from the fence or up off the table,
boards, are time-honored shop for downward pressure. ensuring accurate, consistent grooves,
helpers for holding stock against Featherboards are crucial safety acces- rabbets, and other cuts. This is particu-
a machine’s fence and/or down on its sories for a number of operations, none larly useful when working with thin or
table. Primarily used on a table saw or more so than when ripping on a table saw narrow stock.
router table, a featherboard is basically that’s lacking a splitter or riving knife. Many shapes and sizes of feather-
a body of wood or plastic with thin, Here, the primary cause of kickback boards are available commercially. I’ll
flexible angled fingers that press against is when the workpiece wanders away also show you a few different types you
the workpiece. The angle of the fingers from the fence and encounters the rising can make from scrap wood. Whether
allows forward movement while resist- rear teeth of the blade. In lieu of a split- commercial or shop-made, feather-
ing the cutter’s rearward force. The body ter or riving knife, a featherboard will boards will do a lot better job than you
can be fixed into a machine’s table slots help prevent that. Featherboards will can with your own fingers, which you
or simply clamped to the table. Alterna- also help keep a workpiece from bowing really should save for better purposes.
28
Styles and setups for safety and stability
Featherboards are available in a two-point attachment to prevent be clamped directly to the table at
variety of configurations to suit swiveling. Table-mounted models its edge. Fence-mounted models
specific machines and setups. are often affixed to miter gauge can be clamped or bolted to a tall
Better versions offer a wide span of slots, as shown in the photo on the auxiliary fence, or to a shop-made
fingers for improved pressure, and facing page. Alternatively, they can mounting block that sits atop a fence.
Mounting block Guard mounting board
Featherboard
Guard arm
Strong downer. A fence-mounted featherboard Featherboard/guard combo. This two-part router table setup is for
provides downward pressure on a workpiece to raising panels. The fence-mounted featherboard ensures consistent
ensure grooves and rabbets of consistent depth. This downward pressure, while the guard protects against the intimidatingly
commercial model attaches to a shop-made mounting large cutter. The featherboard is just a bit thinner than the guard’s
block that anchors into the rip fence’s T-slots. clamping board to allow it to sit behind the guard’s cantilevered arm.
Elevated status. Raising this featherboard above

the cut keeps the pressure where you need it while
allowing the offcut to fall freely away instead of being
pushed into the blade, which could shoot it backward.
Workin’ high and low. The bottom
unit of this tandem featherboard Braced for
keeps the work pressed against business. This Brace
the fence at table level to ensure featherboard can be
a consistently placed groove, cobbled together in
while the top unit helps prevent about an hour from
workpiece lean while feeding. scrap and screws.
The brace allows for Featherboard
substantial two-point
clamping to the edge
of the table saw.
Photos: Paul Anthony June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 29

Making featherboards
When making a featherboard and 3" to 4" long. The exact Slot-mounted table saw featherboard
of any sort, use a piece of width isn’t as important Using the guidelines shown here, lay out the
tough hardwood like oak as making the widths featherboard on a 3⁄4 × 8 × 16" piece of stock
or ash that’s free of defects. consistent so that they with a 30° angle on one end. 1"
Do not use plywood or provide even pressure. The
Equals distance
composition board. A photos here show you how from table slot
thickness of 3/4" suits most to make a slot-mounted to blade
jobs; I wouldn’t go any featherboard that will
thicker than that, nor any probably serve the majority
thinner than 1/2". Lay out of your table saw needs.
the fingers in the
direction of the
grain and cut Zero-play stop Cavity
the business end
at a 30° angle. I
make the fingers
1/8" to 3/16" wide
Fingers approx.
3
⁄16" wide × 4" long
⁄8"-dia. all-thread
3
Grind edges of
T-Nut flange to
fit table slot. Suit width of
attachment slot
to diameter of
hardware. ⁄4"
1
Locking hardware. This slot-mounted featherboard attaches

to a saw’s miter gauge T-slots. For hardware, I use 1⁄4-20
carriage bolts recessed into Micro-Jig’s “zero-play stops” (top).
Alternatively, you can screw 3⁄8"-diameter all-thread into barb-less 30°
T-nuts whose edges are ground to fit in the miter gauge slots.
Slots first. Outfit a router with an edge guide and cut Slice and shape. Use a bandsaw or jigsaw to slice the
the attachment slots. I used a down-spiral bit, plunging fingers, and then shape the body. Afterward, ease any sharp
completely through at both ends of the slot before removing edges with sandpaper, and install the mounting hardware.
the waste in between in successively deeper passes.
30
Setting up a featherboard
Setting up a featherboard involves saw blade to avoid pushing the offcut Locating a featherboard just above the
a basic understanding of proper into the blade. However, for non- cut area is a good approach to sawing
placement and a bit of adjustment through cutting—such as grooving the a rabbet, as shown in the “Elevated
nuance. First of all, always point the edge of a standing board at the table status” photo on p. 29. Attachment
fingers toward the direction of feed. As saw, or edge-profiling a board at the and adjustment depends on the type
for placement, you’ll usually want to router table—locate the pressure right of featherboard, as shown below. n
locate a featherboard forward of a table at the cutter to ensure cut accuracy.
Pull
Pressure
Slot-mount setup. After locking your fence in position, place Feed test. Gauge the pressure by first
your workpiece against it, and position the featherboard against pulling the workpiece backward to ensure
the workpiece. With the heel of your hand across from the center it doesn’t retract easily. Then push forward.
of the featherboard’s fingered section, apply enough pressure You should encounter resistance, but not so
to slightly flex the fingers. Then tighten the locking knobs. much as to restrict consistent feeding.
Braced setup STEP 1. With a braced featherboard, STEP 2. Tap the end of the featherboard about the
begin by pressing it against the workpiece lightly, same amount, with an aim toward equalizing the
ensuring consistent contact across the fingers. Snug pressure across the finger range. If necessary, tap
up your clamps just enough to prevent slipping while the brace again. When all the fingers seem evenly
still allowing forceful movement. Tap the end of the bent, tighten the clamps and test the feed resistance.
brace to apply pressure to the leading fingers. If necessary, employ some fine-tuning taps.
Illustration: Christopher Mills June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 31

COUNTER-HEIGHT
STOOL
Subtle angles make a
sturdy kitchen companion
By Ken Burton
W
hat’s a counter without a stool or
two to accompany it? Actually,
this stool is more of a stool/chair
hybrid with a curved back rest that provides
a little support while serving as a convenient
handle at the same time. The gently curved
seat cradles your backside without pinching
and the lower stretchers give you a good place
to rest your feet. In all, a fine accompaniment
to any counter.
Construction is straightforward with loose
tenon joints connecting the legs, rails, and
stretchers. There are three challenges to be
aware of: First, the back rest is a bent lamina-
tion that fits into notches cut in the back legs.
The easiest way to cut these notches is with
a hand saw. Second, the front legs splay out
slightly which is accomplished by cutting
the ends of the front rail at a slight angle.
And third, the side rails are joined to the
front rail also at a slight angle and with
triple tenons—joints that require a little
more precision than a single loose tenon
joint. Don’t let these angled joints deter
you. They are easily accomplished with
the help of a wedge and spacers.
I made the stool in the photo from
white oak and walnut, but feel free to
make your own selection. I’ve used
cherry and ash to make this stool as well.
32
Robust Joinery makes a rock-solid seat
The legs, rails, and stretchers pass. In contrast, integral when dealing with angled
are joined with loose tenons require making parts, cut the pieces such Mortising Jig
mortise and tenons. Loose matching angled shoulder as the stretchers that must Plans for the mortising jig
tenon joinery takes a lot cuts. The crest rail and the fit in between other pieces used here are from the
of the fuss out of non-90° seat slats are fastened using a little long at first, then June/July 2017, issue 77.
joints because the pieces can countersunk screws with trim them to fit
be cut with a single table saw the holes plugged. As always your assembly.
BACK REST
Top View 5
⁄8"-dia. plug 5
⁄8 × 31⁄4 × 12"
#6 × 11⁄4" screws
2 ⁄2"1
SEAT SLAT SEAT RAIL BACK LEG
1
⁄2 × 25⁄8 × 141⁄8" 11⁄8 × 15⁄8 × 121⁄4" 11⁄8 × 31⁄2 × 33"
2 ⁄16"
1
141⁄8"
Mortise
3
⁄8 × 11⁄2 × 7⁄8"
SIDE RAIL 13⁄8"
11⁄8 × 21 ⁄8 × 121⁄4" 3"
25⁄8" ⁄8"
5 1
⁄4"
7
⁄8"
Front View
12" 15⁄8"
Cut to match
31⁄4" curve of
front rail. 1111 ⁄16"
Mortise Mortise
6" 3
⁄8 × 11⁄2 × 7⁄8" 5
⁄16" 1
⁄4 × 5 ⁄8 × 1 ⁄2"
86° FRONT RAIL Mortise
11⁄8 × 21 ⁄4 × 12" ⁄4 × 11⁄16 × 3⁄4"
1
12" Mortise Leg mortise

1
⁄4 × 5 ⁄8 × 3 ⁄4" from top of
111⁄2" leg 23⁄8".
BACK STRETCHER
5
⁄8 × 1 × 6"
⁄8"
1
SIDE STRETCHER
5
⁄8 × 1 × 1515⁄16"
Side View 2"
FRONT STRETCHER
5
⁄8 × 1 × 133⁄4"
15⁄16"
13⁄8"
FRONT LEG Mortise Order of Work
86° 15⁄16 × 15⁄16 × 233⁄4" ⁄4 × 5⁄8 × 3⁄4"
1
• Make and join front legs and rail
• Make and join rear legs and side rails
121⁄4" • Join side and front rails
• Make and join seat rail
Front leg tapers from
15⁄16" square at top to • Make seat curve
233⁄4" 7
⁄8" square at bottom. • Make and join stretchers
• Bend back rest
• Make and attach seat slats
Photos: Ken Burton; Illustrations: John Hartman June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33

Taper the front legs, and rout the front rail joints
Mill the stock for the rails and end to 7/8" at the other. Use this
legs to thickness, allowing two wedge to position the rails when
inches of extra length for the cutting them to exact length as
back legs. Set the material for well as when mortising their
the back legs and seat rail aside. ends. Using a wedge keeps the
Cut the front legs, front, and angle consistent from machine
side rails to the sizes indicated to machine. Lay out the mortises
on the drawing leaving the rails on the sides of the front legs and on
1/4" long. Also mill an 11" length the ends of the front rail. To cut the
of scrap to the same thickness as mortises, you’ll need a mortising
the rails. Cut this piece into a 4° jig capable of holding pieces both
wedge that tapers from 3/16" at one horizontally and vertically. Fence
Cut line
Carrier board
4° wedge Align and conquer. Lay out the taper on a leg. Align
the cut line with the edge of a carrier board and screw
a fence in place to locate the leg. Add a stop block at
Cut the rail ends. Fasten a 4° wedge to the miter gauge with double- the far end and toggle clamps to hold the leg securely.
faced tape. Cut the front and side rails to final length, trimming Set the fence so the cut matches the width of the
both ends of the front rail, and one end of each side rail. carrier board. Taper the legs on two adjacent faces.
4° wedge
Mortise the front legs. Choose the front and outside faces Mortise the front rail. Replace the jig’s horizontal fence with its
of your legs. Lay out the mortises on the inside faces. Rout vertical fence. Lay out the mortises on the ends of the front rail.
the mortises with the front face against the jig and the Choose the rail’s front face and clamp it in the jig with that face out.
outside face down. Use the edge guide to center the mortise Use the wedge to help with positioning. Rout the mortise. When
on the leg and the stops to control the mortise’s length. you rout the opposite end, turn the wedge so the wide end is up.
34
Make the back legs
Use the layout oat right to make a particular attention to getting the little Back Leg Pattern
pattern for the back legs from a piece flat where the rail will join the leg. Use
of 3/4" sheet material such as MDF. the pattern to lay out and cut the legs.
Note that the pattern includes an Cut the mortises in the side rails and 2" 215⁄16"
extra inch at either end for attaching back legs as you did for the front legs.
the pattern to the leg blanks. Pay Extra length
101⁄2"
Starting Pin
11⁄2"
21⁄8" Draw a curve

that connects
these lines.
15 ⁄8"
Rout to shape. Bandsaw the 351⁄2" The size and
placement
legs roughly to shape. Screw of this flat
the template to the blank and is critical.
rout it to its final shape, pivoting
off a starter pin as you engage
the pattern bit. Transfer the
end and shoulder lines to the 22" 21"
leg before unscrewing it.
Extra length
33⁄4"
43⁄4"
Unusual means of support. Cut a Make the tenons. Cut a 12-15"

scrap of plywood to match the curve length of 3⁄8" × 11⁄2" tenon stock
on the back of the leg. Clamp this to to be a snug fit in the mortises.
the mortising jig to help support the Round over the corners with a
leg as you rout the mortise for the side 3
⁄16
16" roundover bit before cutting
rail. Rout the legs (and the side rails) the individual tenons to length.
with their outside surfaces facing out. Use a stop block against the table
saw fence to prevent the pieces
from being trapped between
the fence and the blade.

Cut the front-to-side rail mortises
The side rails attach to the front rail tricky at first, the use of spacers takes fence and risers for your router jig
with triple tenon joints. These joints all the guesswork out of the process. to position the clamps properly. You
are necessary to incorporate as much Make the two necessary spacers can use this same piece horizontally
long grain to long grain glue surface from 1/2" plywood or MDF. Also when you rout the front rail.
as possible. While they may seem make up a thicker vertical
8/4 fence
Spacer
Riser Spacer
Side rail
Spaced Out. Lay out the mortises on the

Wedge angled ends of the side rails. Clamp a rail
in the mortising jig with the angled end up,
using the 4° wedge to hold the rail at the
proper angle. Rout the outermost mortises.
Then tape a spacer to the back of the jig
before routing the second mortises. Add the
second spacer and rout the third mortises.
Side rail Riser

End stop
Double Spacer
8/4 fence
Front rail
Top edge
Reconfigure and mark. Change the mortising jig over to Double Play. Once the edge guide is repositioned, rout the first
hold the front rail. Because you’ll have removed the wedge, uppermost mortise in the front rail. Then slide the rail laterally
you’ll need to reset the router’s edge guide. Use one of to position it for the second of the two uppermost mortises so
the side rails to transfer the location of the top (outermost) you don’t have to reposition the end stops. Add one spacer and
mortise to the front rail. Align the bit with these new marks rout the second mortises, then add the second spacer for the
as you adjust the edge guide for these mortises. third mortises, as shown here. Note that having three toggle
clamps helps a lot as you reposition the rail between cuts.
36
Notch the seat and side rails
The seat rail is
connected to the side
rails with lap joints.
Clamp the side rails
to the front rail so Side rail
you can get an actual
measurement of the
distance between
them—measure Seat rail
right at the front rail.
Then cut mating Set two stops. Since the notches are Check for fit. Make
notches in the side wider than most dado blades, make the the cuts in the side
rails and seat rail as cut in two passes. Position one side of rails 7⁄8" deep. Then
shown. Make the the cut with the stop on the miter gauge adjust the cuts in
distance between and the other with the rip fence. Use a the seat rail so that
the notches in the piece of scrap 1⁄4" plywood to prevent when the pieces go
seat rail equal to the tearout on the backside of the cuts. together, the seat rail
distance you just sits about 1⁄16
16" proud
measured between of the top surface

the side rails. of the side rails.
Add the seat curve

The seat’s gentle
scoop comes from
curved cuts in
the front and seat
rails, along with
angled cuts on the
tops of the front
legs and side rails.
Start by laying out
⁄8"
3
the curve in the Continue the curve. After bandsawing the curve in the front
front rail. Then rail, extrapolate the angle at which to cut the front legs so
use this curve as to continue the curve. Cut the legs on the table saw.
as reference for
determining the
cuts on the tops of
the front legs, the
bevels on the top
of the seat rails,
and the curve in
the seat rail on the
front rail curve.
Flexible layout. The curve on the front rail Same angle. Mark the ends of the side rails
should dip 3⁄8" in at the center point. from the curve on the front rail. Tilt the blade
to match this angle and bevel the side rails.

Add the stretchers
Cut the stretchers to the mortises in the ends
the thickness and width of the rear stretcher. Then
indicated, leaving the front clamp the stool together so
stretcher 1⁄2" long and the you can mark the length of
side stretchers 11⁄2" long the front stretcher. Cut the
for now. Make the length front stretcher to length
of the back stretcher equal and cut the mortises in
the distance between the its ends. Reassemble the
side rails. Lay out and cut chair and mark the side
the mortises for the front stretchers for length before
and rear stretchers in the cutting the joints that attach
legs. Make the mortises them to the front and rear
in the legs parallel to the stretchers. Glue up the base.
legs’ front faces. Also cut
Stretcher marks. Hold the front stretcher in place with spring clamps
so you can mark it for length between the legs. Note, when you are
initially clamping the stool together, use double-sided tape to help
hold the pads in place to protect the pieces from the clamps.
Cut wedge so
this surface is in
plane with the
top of the jig.
Play the angles. With the front

stretcher in place, rest the side
stretchers in position to mark
their lengths and the angles of Make more wedges. To hold the side stretchers at the proper
the cuts. Note that because of angle for mortising, make two wedges (one for the front mortises,
the angles, your layout lines will the other for the rear). To figure out what angle to cut each wedge,
indicate a piece that is shorter place the wedge blank against the mortise jig’s vertical fence and
than it has to be. Cut wide of the hold the stretcher alongside with its beveled end in plane with the top
lines and sneak up on a tight fit. surface. Trace along the backside of the stretcher to mark the blank.
38
Add the Back Rest
While the base is irregularities in the Back Rest Form
drying, make the back form while the tape
rest. The back rest is a keeps any squeeze out
bent lamination that from sticking. Cut the 21⁄4"
fits into notches cut in material for the back 33⁄4"
the back legs. It is held rest into five 1/8 × 31/2
in place with screws × 15" strips and bend
hidden by wooden them over the form.
plugs. Make a form After the glue dries 31⁄8"
from five or six layers of thoroughly, cut the 11⁄2"
3/4" plywood according piece to final size and
15"
to the drawing at left. use it to help lay out the
I like to line the inside notches in the tops of
of my forms with a the rear legs. Cut the
thin layer of sheet cork notches, shape the top
covered with packing of the legs, then screw
tape. The cork helps the rail into place.
even out possible
Roll on. A small printer’s brayer makes a good Under pressure. Clamp the bend between the two
glue spreader. Apply glue to the individual parts of the form. I used four bar clamps to do the initial
laminations that will make up the back rest. squeeze, then added four F-clamps for added pressure.
Roll it through. Scrape away the squeeze out and joint one edge of the Scribe to fit. Hold the back
lamination to make a good edge to run against the table saw fence. Cut rest in place and trace its curve
the back rest to its final 31⁄4" width by rolling it through the cut, keeping on top of each back leg. Cut
the workpiece in contact with the table at the front of the blade. the notches with a tenon saw.

Make the seat
The seat consists of six and lay out the curved cuts
tapered slats that are along the front and rear
screwed to the front and seat ends. Make these cuts on the
rails. I cut mine by resawing band saw. Clean up the saw
a piece of 5/4 stock. Cut the marks then screw the pieces
pieces to size and taper them in place. After sanding
on the table saw from 25/8" the plugs flush, finish the
at the front end to 21/16" at stool to suit. I used several
the rear. Arrange the pieces coats of wiping varnish. n
in order on your bench top
Curves front and rear. The seat is subtly curved along its front
and back edges. Lay out these curves with a bending spline or a
straight strip of wood. Use the same curve for both locations.
Spaced out. Attach the slats from the center Touch down. Place the completed stool on a flat surface
out. Cut some 1⁄8" thick pieces to help with the to check it for level. Scribe around each of the feet and trim
spacing as you screw the slats in place. so each meets the floor at the proper angle. Note that the
front of the seat should be 1⁄4" higher than the back.
40
Choosing the Right
Table Saw Blades
We cut through the confusion to show you the ones you really need.
By Paul Anthony
E
ver wonder if your table saw blade burned cuts and tear-out? If so, you’re blades out there, and picking the right
does what it’s supposed to? Sure, it developing the wrong kind of wood- ones for your particular needs can be
“cuts,” but is it costing you needless working habits and wasting valuable confusing. But don’t worry, the choices
aggravation and added machining? Are shop time. The problem may well be aren’t as difficult as you might think, and
you becoming a master at fixing poorly that you’re using the wrong blade. you won’t have to cut back on groceries
fitting joints and cleaning up rough, There’s an enormous selection of saw to get the blades you need.
Photos: Paul Anthony June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 41

Basic blade types
Thin-Kerf Blades
Table saw blades come in an astonishing array of configurations. The teeth on thin-kerf blades measure about
But know that, in general, blades with fewer teeth cut more quickly, 3
⁄32" wide. Because they cut 25% less wood than a
though more coarsely. Conversely, the more teeth a blade has, the standard blade with 1⁄8"-wide teeth, your saw motor
slower and smoother it cuts. Combining that knowledge with an doesn’t have to work as hard. Thin-kerf blades are a
understanding of the basic blade types and tooth configurations, good choice when sawing thick, hard stock with an
will guide you in selecting the right blade for the job. underpowered saw. The downside is that the thinner
plate can flutter a bit, causing a slightly rougher cut.
Flat Top Grind (FTG) Triple-Chip Grind (TCG)

Kerf Kerf
Fast ripping, rough crosscutting. FTG blades have FTG teeth alternated with chamfered teeth. The teeth on a TCG blade
teeth whose top edges are square to the saw plate. Also alternate between a raker tooth and a chamfered tooth. The chamfered
called rakers, these teeth attack the wood much like a tooth roughs out the cut, while the following FTG tooth cleans it up. This
chisel chopping out the ends of a mortise. They’re fast- tooth configuration is meant for sawing dense materials: plastic laminate,
cutting and durable, but don’t produce a clean surface. solid surface materials like Corian, and non-ferrous metals like brass
They’re designed to rip, sawing parallel to the grain. and aluminum. Pointy ATB teeth would blunt quickly from this stuff.
Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) Combination (ATBR)

Kerf Kerf
All purpose ripping and crosscutting. The teeth on ATB blades FTG interspersed with ATB teeth. Combination blades consist
are angled across the top edge, with every other tooth “leaning” of 50 teeth arranged in sets of five, consisting of four ATB teeth
in the opposite direction. The shape of the tooth causes it to shear and a raker tooth (thus the ATBR designation.) The ATB teeth are
the wood fibers cleanly using a slicing motion. The steeper the designed to crosscut cleanly while the raker teeth aid in ripping.
bevel angle, the cleaner the teeth cut, but the quicker they dull. Combination blades are also considered “all-purpose” blades.
Most 40-tooth ATB blades are marketed as “all-purpose” blades.
Where tooth hook counts

Positive 0-20° Zero Negative 0-6°
Rake Rake Rake onlineEXTRAS
Table Saw Tune-up.
Even a premium quality
blade won’t cut as it
Hook, also called rake, refers to the angle hook angle, the more pressure is required should if your table
of the tooth face in relation to the center to feed the workpiece. Some blades have saw isn’t tuned up.
of the blade. Teeth with a positive hook zero rake, or even negative rake. These Visit our website for a
cut more aggressively. The hook on a are particularly good for use on miter- free article on how to
typical all-purpose blade is 15° to 20°, saws because they prevent self-feeding, get your saw singing.
while blades designed specifically for or “climb cutting.” They’re fine to use on
ripping are usually 20°. The smaller the the table saw, too.
42
Best Blades for the Job
Joinery/General Woodworking
Premium all purpose blades. For 90% of your table saw chores,
pick up a good quality “all purpose” or combination blade. But
keep in mind that excellent woodworking requires an excellent
blade. This is not the time to succumb to your frugal nature. It’s
false economy to save a few bucks by buying a mediocre blade
that’s going to cost you lots of cleanup work over the years.
Ripping solid wood

24-tooth FTG. 40-tooth ATB or
“Rip” blade cuts fast 50-tooth ATBR
but coarse. It’s good combination
for initial rough- blade. These “all
sizing of pieces. purpose” blades cut
slower but cleaner.
Anti kick-back shoulder
Crosscutting solid wood and sawing plywood

40-tooth ATB or 80-tooth ATB. For concerted
50-tooth ATBR crosscutting, mitering, or sawing
combination of delicate sheet goods. Blades
blade. A good with more teeth generally cut
quality all-purpose cleaner, but a top-quality 40-tooth
blade will do fine blade may cut better than a
in most cases. mediocre 80-tooth blade.
Sawing MDF, melamine, and particleboard

40-tooth to 80-tooth ATB. ATB
blades tend to cut cleaner but dull
faster than TCG blades. If you can
afford it, get a quality 80-tooth
blade for your chop saw and
switch it over to your table saw
when you need to make the best
crosscuts or panel cuts possible.
Sawing plastic laminate, nonferrous metal, and plastics
80-tooth TCG. If you saw a lot of

plastic laminate or work with nonferrous
metals, bite the bullet and buy a TCG
blade. Your ATB blades will thank
you for not brutalizing them. n
See the Buyer’s guide on p. 62 for pricing information.
Illustrations: Christopher Mills June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 43

Build a
BLADE SAFE
A wall-hung armory for your table saw blade collection
By Bill Sands
W
oodworkers have a way of
collecting table saw blades. It
starts innocently enough with
an all-purpose blade or two, and before
you know it, you’ve added a dedicated
ripping blade, a crosscut model, a dado
set, and specialty blades for cutting
everything from plywood to composite
materials and even metal.
These tools are tough, but not inde-
structible. Their carbide teeth are brittle
and subject to damage from other blades
when haphazardly stored. You don’t want
them lying about on a benchtop waiting
to clash with other metal tools, and you
certainly don’t want to knock one onto
the floor, as even a slight bend from a
fall can compromise clean cutting. That’s
not to mention the damage a blade in
the wild can inflict on inattentive fingers
scrounging around in clutter searching
for something else.
For less than the cost of one premium
blade, you can build this stout hanging
cabinet to store and safeguard your col-
lection. Made of birch plywood and solid
poplar, it holds 10 blades plus a dado set
and a few other table saw accessories.
Sliding shelves that facilitate blade iden-
tification and retrieval feature a scalloped
cutout for blade access, along with two
finger holes along the front edge and a
Order of Work locator dowel near the center. Notches
• Build the case body in the sides allow sliding, but also serve
• Make and attach face frame as outward stops. Rare-earth magnets
• Make and assemble door secure the door and a subtle cove serves
• Make shelves as its pull. This blade safe is a great way
• Prefinish and paint to protect your investment, and it’ll sure
• Assemble and hang look nice on your shop wall.
44
A menagerie of joinery
This cabinet is flush with strong, dadoes are quickly cut using a simple door frame are made entirely on
but easy-to-make joinery. Biscuits jig that automatically spaces them, the table saw using a tenon jig, and
align and reinforce the case miters, and the face frame attaches with the stopped door panel grooves are
while a simple rabbet captures the glue and pocket screws. The bridle easily plowed using a table router.
back and French cleat. The shelf joints used for the face frame and
DOOR RAIL FACE FRAME RAIL TOP CLEAT #8 × 11⁄4"

⁄4 × 2 × 121⁄2"*
3 3
⁄4 × 1 × 121⁄2"* 3
⁄4 × 113⁄4 × 121⁄2" 1
⁄2 × 113⁄4* × 3" FH wood screw
DOOR STILE 3
⁄8" mortise,
⁄4 × 2 × 24"*
3
1" deep** #8 × 1" FH
wood screw
Hinge
21⁄2 × 11⁄4"
#10 biscuits
3" BACK
1
⁄4 × 113⁄4 × 231⁄4*
3
⁄8" dado,
3
⁄8" deep
13⁄4"
DOWEL
1
⁄2"-dia. × 3⁄4" l. 11⁄8"
DOOR PANEL
⁄4 × 9 × 201⁄2"* ⁄2" hole,
1
1
13⁄4" ⁄4" deep
1
21⁄4"
1" through hole
31⁄4" notch,
3
⁄4" deep
SLIDING SHELF
3
⁄8 × 113⁄4 × 111⁄2"* 3
⁄4" rabbet,
3
⁄8" deep
FIXED SHELF
⁄4" through groove,
1 3
⁄8 × 113⁄4 × 11"
⁄4" deep
1
21⁄4"
Inset pull
1
⁄2 × 41⁄2"
1" 67⁄8"
FACE FRAME STILE
3
⁄4 × 1 × 24"* 33⁄8"
Steel Steel cup

washer
2"
Rare Earth magnet
1
⁄4" stopped groove, 3
⁄8" mortise, SIDE
1
⁄4" deep 2" deep** 3
⁄4 × 113⁄4 × 24"
(See p. 48 for details.)
*Dimensions provided, but cut to fit.
**Adjust joinery dimensions to account for overhang
Opening photo: Chad McClung; Illustration: Greg Maxson June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 45
Construct the case
Rip the case pieces to width and Using each of these initial dadoes 3/8"-deep, 7/8"-wide cut, burying 1/8" of
miter them to length. Mark the as reference, add an index pin to the blade in a sacrificial fence. Then
location of the uppermost dado on your miter gauge fence and saw the saw the back rabbet in each piece.
one side piece and use it to set up nine remaining sliding shelf dadoes Cut biscuit slots in the case miters
your saw as shown. Then use a miter on each side. Remove the index pin and drill pocket holes for attaching
gauge to guide each case side in turn before adjusting the fence to saw the the face frame. Sand the inside faces
over the blade, applying consistent dado in each side piece for the fixed of the case and assemble it, making
downward pressure over the joint. shelf. Next, set up a dado stack for a sure it’s square under clamp pressure.
11⁄8"
Index pin
3
⁄8" × 5⁄16"
Auxiliary miter
gauge fence
Make your mark. After marking Automatic dado spacing. Attach an

out the uppermost dado on a case auxiliary fence with an index pin to your
side, set your 3⁄8"-wide cutter for miter gauge. Register each dado in turn
a 3⁄8"-deep cut as shown. Then on the index pin to cut the next sliding
locate the fence and saw the shelf dado on one case side. Then repeat
first dado on each case side. the process for the other case side.
3
⁄16" Spacer
Rabbet for dust

Bench hook
biscuit board
Cut the biscuit slots. Attach a 3⁄16

16"-thick
spacer to the joiner’s fence to properly locate

the #10 biscuit slots. Using a bench hook to
hold the workpiece makes for fast slotting.
Assemble the case. Pull the case together

with band clamps and check for square by
comparing diagonal measurements.
46
Make the face frame
Mill the face frame stiles to 3/4 × 11/8 × 3/4 × 11/8" stock to test your setups. and pocket screws. Next, glue and insert
241/4" and the rails to 3/4 × 11/8 × 123/4", Cut the bridle joints with the aid of a the fixed shelf before trimming the face
which allows excess for flush-trimming tenoning jig before assembling the frame frame’s overhang on the table saw using
later. Also mill some extra lengths of and attaching it to the case with glue a fence-mounted flush-trim guide.
Sanding block to
sand fuzzies at
tenon shoulders
Sacrificial fence after cut.
prevents tearout
Mortise the stiles. Set up a tenon jig to hold the Tenon the rails. Without changing the blade height,
stiles vertically. Using a 1⁄4"-wide cutter, make each reset the rip fence to position the jig to cut the
1
⁄4"-wide cut in two passes, flipping the piece face-for- tenons on the rail ends. Again, flip the rails face-
face in between to ensure a centered mortise. for-face to ensure the tenons are centered.
Three unfolded manila

folders for shims.
Assemble the frame. To glue up the face frame, pull Frame the case. Turn the case on its side and clamp it to your bench atop three
the joints home with bar clamps, check for square, manila folders to create clearance for the frame overhang. Then glue and screw
and then clamp the joints across their faces. the face frame in place. Turn the case over and repeat on the second side.
Flush the edges. Assemble a

flush trim jig with a guide board Mounting board
that hovers over your table
saw blade. Adjust the fence
so the left edge of the guide
board is flush with outside of
the saw blade. Run the case
face down along the guide
board to trim the frame flush.
Guide board
Project photos: Jim Osborn June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 47

Make the door
The door frame is also joined with joints in the same manner, then rout door. Temporarily install the hinges,
bridle joints. As you did with the the grooves for the door panel. After and mark the door for flush-cutting
face frame, size the pieces to make sizing a panel to fit, glue up the door. to the face frame. After trimming
a slightly oversized door that can be Rout hinge mortises in your chosen it, rout the coved pull in its edge.
trimmed flush to the case. Cut the stile and the mating mortises in the
Start Stop
Rout the panel groove. At the router table, adjust

a 1⁄4"-diameter bit for a cutting depth of 1⁄4". On
the fence, pencil a start line to the left of the bit
and a stop line to the right. To groove each rail,
lower it onto the spinning bit with its leading end Door glue-up. To assemble the door, glue the rails to one
at the start line, and then feed the piece to the stile, insert the panel in its grooves, and then attach the
left. Stop when the trailing end reaches the stop remaining stile. As with the face frame, pull the joints home,
mark. No need for stopped grooves in the stiles. square the frame, and clamp across the joint faces.
Start Stop
Hinge the door. After routing the hinge mortises Rout an inset pull. Chuck a 1⁄2" cove bit in your
in the face frame, install each hinge in its mortise router table and rout a 41⁄2" long finger recess on the
with a single screw. Put the door in place and backside of the door opposite the hinge mortises.
transfer the hinge locations with a knife as shown.
Then rout the mating mortises in the door.
48
Make the shelves
Cut the shelves to size, double-face tape them
together in batches, and saw the notches.
Referring to the drawing on p. 45, make a
shelf-sized scallop template from plywood,
bandsawing the curve and then refining the Backer
board
shape with a spindle sander. Use the template
to lay out a scallop on each batch of shelves,
then bandsaw proud of the cut lines. Attach
the template in turn to each batch, and
pattern-rout to your cut lines. Next, drill the
finger holes and the stopped 1/2"-diameter
holes for the blade locator dowels. Then use
a 1/8" roundover bit to ease the front edges
and the finger holes. Lastly, make the dowel Batch notching. Clamp a stack of shelves to your miter gauge to
locators and glue them into their holes. saw the short notch shoulders. Position the rip fence to serve as a
stop, and back up the stack with scrap to prevent exit tearout. After
sawing all the short shoulders, finish the notches on the bandsaw.
Stacked scallops. Scallop

After rough- template
bandsawing the
scallop into each
batch of shelves, Fe
ed
attach the scallop
template to the
stack with double-
faced tape. Then
use a flush-trim
bit to clean up
the saw marks.
Rout a few shelves at a time.
Make a stack equivalent to
your bit’s cutting length.
Two at a time. To Stopped hole

make the 10 locator
dowels, first chuck
a 10" length of
1
⁄2"-diameter dowel
in a hand drill and
round each end in turn
against a disc sander.
Then cut off the ends
at the bandsaw using
a piece of scrap
with a stopped hole. Position fence to
set dowel length.
Repeat 4 more times.

Finishing up
Begin wrapping things up by installing two
cups and rare-earth magnets in the face
frame, as well as the mating washers in the
door. Then cut the back and French cleat to
size. For finishing, I next removed the shelves
and sprayed them and the case interior with
clear lacquer before painting the door and
the cabinet exterior. Once things were dry,
I replaced the shelves, glued and screwed
the back and cleat in place, and reinstalled Self-centering jig
the door hardware. When you hang your
cabinet, make sure to attach the wall cleat
with several long, stout screws driven one Drilling for magnets. Use a simple self-centering jig to drill
above the other into a wall stud. This sucker holes for the steel cups that house the magnets in the face
will be heavy when loaded with blades. n frame. Install mating washers in the back of the door.
Secure the back and cleat. Drill pilot holes through the back and into the
rear edges of the case pieces, avoiding the shelf dados. Glue and screw the
back into its rabbets, then attach the cleat in the same manner.
50
Famous Furniture
The U.S. Senate DESK

By David Heim
O n August 24, 1814, the

two year-old War of 1812
took a particularly ugly turn
stantine was obliged to make
their furniture with “no super-
fluous ornament.” On the other
relatively unadorned, the
boxes do not match the angles
of the original desks, nor do
when British soldiers torched hand, each senator received his they reflect their styling.
the U.S. Capitol Building. The own ornate desk veneered in Over time, the desks under-
conflagration turned marble figured mahogany and rose- went two more modifications:
columns to lime, reduced the wood, along with an armchair In 1896, the legs were outfit-
new congressional library to upholstered in expensive red ted with metal grilles that
ash, and decimated both the morocco leather. connected to an under-floor
House and Senate chambers. According to one histo- ventilation system. Although
Original solid
As a result, Congress had to rian, “The design of the desks the grilles remain, they fell mahogany top
convene in temporary quar- and chairs tells a compelling into disuse in 1929 when air-
ters for the next five years. story about popular percep- conditioning was installed in
During that time, Presi- tions of the Senate and House the chamber. In 1971, a micro-
dent Madison authorized a and about the distribution of phone was fitted to the left
$500,000 loan for rebuilding power and prestige.” The sena- side of each desk, with a low-
and refurnishing the Capi- tors “generally were considered power loudspeaker placed on
tol. Thomas Constantine, a the most learned and well-bred the shelf to help overcome Desks are about
young cabinetmaker in New citizens of the country.” But poor room acoustics. 34" high,
24 to 29" wide,
York City, received the com- House members were “seen Although none of Constan- 19 to 20" deep.
missions to make the furni- as less refined, self-educated tine’s original House furniture
ture for the restored House men who lacked the pedigree survives, every one of his
and Senate chambers. In and edification of their upper- original Senate desks is still
1818, House leaders awarded house counterparts. in use today in the now four-
Constantine the work because Constantine’s desks were tiered Senate chamber. They
he submitted a low bid. But originally arranged in semi- sit alongside new, matching
in the Senate, Vice President circles on three tiers, with desks made by a variety of
Daniel Tomkins—described each desk made to suit a spe- other cabinetmakers as states
as “a victim of chronic alcohol- cific location. Those along were added to the Union. n
ism and distracting personal the aisles were narrower
financial difficulties”—simply and more trapezoidal, while
awarded Constantine the job others were wider and almost
without financial restrictions, square. Regardless of its over- fastFACTS
but giving him just six weeks all shape, each desk stands on • T he desks still contain an inkwell and a
to construct 48 desks and elaborate trestle legs with a container of fine sand used to blot ink.
chairs. Constantine delivered fixed, slanted writing surface • In the early 1900s, senators began signing their
the goods on time, though only atop a drawer. Sometime in names in the drawers, creating a reliable record
by subcontracting much of the the 1830s, an open shelf was of who sat at each desk over the years.
work to other cabinetmakers. added below the drawer. Later • In 1995, Senator George Murphy began filling his desk
House members had to in the century, a “writing box” drawer with candy for colleagues. The tradition continues
share plain slant-front writing was installed on top, its sides today, with a candy-filled desk near a main chamber entrance.
desks, and their chairs were extending saddle-style over • The firm that Thomas Constantine founded is still in business,
upholstered with common the ends of the original desk- as a woodworking retailer in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.
black horsehair fabric. Con- top. Being foursquare and
52 Photos: courtesy U.S. Senate Collection; Illustration: courtesy Library of Congress

Writing box added Inkwell and
in latter half of 1800s sand container
Three tiers for the Senate. This depiction of president Andrew Johnson’s 1868
impeachment trial shows the triple-tiered Senate chamber of the time. The desks
include their shelves, but lack the writing tops and ventilation grilles that
were added later.
A stately desk. Every

senator from every state
is assigned a desk in
the Senate chamber. It’s
built of solid mahogany
and mahogany-veneered
secondary woods including
Shelf added
in 1830s poplar, pine, and ash. This
desk includes ventilation
grilles that once connected
to under-floor vents.
Anatomy and evolution of a desk

To play with a cool interactive graphic showing how The companion
the Senate desk design evolved over time, visit https:// chair. Only three of
www.senate.gov/artandhistory/art/special/Desks/ Constantine’s original
anatomy.cfm. While you’re there, click on the other tabs Senate chairs survive.
for a fascinating cornucopia of historical trivia about This one has lost its
the desks and the legislators who have used them. arms and casters.

WoodSense
CANARYWOOD
Singing the praises
of a lesser-known species
By Ken Burton
Y ou don’t have to see a lot of canary-

wood to know where it got its
name. The brightly streaked yellowish/
we see in the US comes from several
species of the genus Centrolobium.
The wood—which is marketed
tall and about 16" in diameter. As of this
writing, none of the species are designated
on either the CITES list or the IUCN
orangeish/reddish /brownish heart- under a variety of names, includ- Red List as being endangered, and the
wood is reminiscent of many Spring- ing tarara amarilla, putumuju, and lumber is widely available through exotic
time birds. And like birds whose porcupinewood—reflects subtle wood dealers.
feathers lose those bright colors in variations in color and texture,
the fall, canarywood tends to darken depending on the particular species. History in woodworking
to a rich, reddish-brown as Canarywood hasn’t enjoyed the same
the wood ages. The Where the wood furniture-grade pedigree as rosewood
canarywood comes from and other better known rainforest woods.
The trees grow throughout South Amer- It is more likely found in older South
ica and can reach over 100 feet tall and American buildings, where it was used
3 feet in diameter, although as a construction timber, or outdoors,
those cut for lumber are where it has served as railroad ties. How-
typically 40-60' ever, due to increased trade in exotic tim-
bers, you’ll now likely find canarywood
used in boxes and other gift items at your
local craft gallery as well as in musical
instruments.
Something to tweet about. Heavy,

but not too hard, and with striking
coloration, canarywood has a lot to
offer the adventurous woodworker.
TEXTURE TOXICITY ROT/INSECT RESISTANCE STABILITY HARDNESS DENSITY

MEDIUM-FINE LOW MODERATE MEDIUM-HIGH MEDIUM-HARD 52 LBS./CU. FT.
54
Birds of a feather. About the only thing consistent
with canarywood is the inconsistency of its
coloration, which can range from a tawny yellow to
a rich reddish brown, often across the same board.
Selecting the best stock Canarywood Working Notes

As you can see from the photos above,
canarywood varies a lot in color and I find that when getting to know the character of a particular wood
grain pattern. If you intend to edge-glue species, nothing provides better feedback than a chisel in the hands. So,
boards to make up a wider panel, you for this month’s column, I opted to do a little carving and turning with my
may want to purchase extra stock for canarywood blanks. The subject matter was a no-brainer, as it seemed
better grain matching. For the most part, to me I had a bird in hand and can rarely resist a pun. I’ve been making
the lumber available in the United States stylized avians for years though normally I make them from cherry.
is sawn to 4/4 thickness, although a few (Watch for my article in our next issue on how to make your own!)
online sources carry heavier stock. You I wasn’t sure what to expect when carving canarywood. By the numbers, the
can also purchase turning blanks, rang- two species are quite different. Canarywood is about 50% heavier
ing from pen-sized pieces on up through (52 vs 35 lbs./cubic foot) and about 50% harder (1520 on the janka scale
fairly large bowl stock. Prices are in the vs 950). However, carving the two woods turned out to be very similar,
$10-15 / bd. ft. range. largely due to the tight grain structure of both. Canarywood cuts beautifully
with sharp carving knives and chisels and holds detail well. It also sands
Working and finishing quickly, although it did tend to load the sandpaper just a bit.
Canarywood is quite stable and works As a bonus, the sanding dust emits a pleasant scent. Turning
well with both hand and power tools. the base “log” was an equal pleasure. A roughing gouge sheared
The lumber that’s imported tends to the blank nicely to a cylinder and a couple of follow-up passes
be knot-free and straight-grained, so it with a skew yielded a surface that required very little sanding.
machines cleanly with minimal tearout. To finish things up, I hand-planed a flat on the bottom.
No special precautions are necessary Even this simple maneuver of peeling away
when gluing. The wood also holds fas- a clean shaving was delightful. All in all, I find
teners well, although drilling pilot holes canarywood to be much easier to work with
is definitely recommended. Likewise, than its weight and density would imply. n
finishing with either water or oil-based
products is generally problem-free. Perched canarywood. This carved bird on its
turned perch show off the color variation offered
by canarywood. Both pieces came from the same
Canarywood Uses chunk of wood, and are finished with Danish oil.
• Furniture
• Cabinetry
• Turnings
• Flooring
• Musical instruments
• Construction timber
• Railroad ties
OpeningKen
Photos: photo:
Burton
TK; Project photos: TK; Illustrations: TK June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 55
Great Gear
Sometimes they make ‘em better than they used to
Pinnacle #151 #152803, $126.99

Pinnacle #1511⁄2 # 153105, $119.99
Like many woodworkers, I often pulled make for smooth blade adjustment #151 is 1/4" wider (front to back) than
my old bevel-down Stanley #151 and great cutting performance. on my Stanley, which, in my opinion,
“gull wing” spokeshaves into play The 1/8" thick × 2" wide cryogenically provides better footing without being
to help shape and smooth curved treated, A2 steel blade in each shave too wide to use on slightly concave
workpieces of all sorts, using the is dead-flat and ground at 25°. The work. The sole on the 1511/2 is also 1/4"
flat-sole version for straight or convex steel, which is hardened to Rc 60-62, wider than its forebear, but is radiused
surfaces, and the radiused-sole model polishes up nicely on waterstones the same, which perhaps provides
for concave shapes. That is until I without a lot of sweat, and holds an a bit more stability while slightly
discovered the Pinnacle flat-bottom edge very well. The thickness of the limiting access for tighter curves.
(#151) and radiused-bottom (#1511/2) blade ensures chatter-free service, and At about $120 each, these shaves
remakes of the Stanley models. results in a bevel with enough foot- aren’t cheap, but if you have the
These beefy 103/4" long tools are ing for jig-free honing—a real boon money, and if you appreciate nicely
made of rust-resistant 304 stainless for short blades like this that can be designed, well-made tools, they are
steel. The handles are not hollowed out difficult to mount in a honing guide. worth it. If you do a lot of spokeshave-
on the backside like on the Stanleys, These tools work as well as they worthy work but can’t afford them,
contributing to heft and comfort- look. The matte texturing of each body I suggest you start saving up.
able handling. The solid, precisely promotes solid gripping while the —Paul Anthony, senior editor
machined knobs and threaded posts shape and 17 oz. weight aids maneu-
and the dead-flat 45° blade bed verability. The sole on the Pinnacle
56 Prices subject to change without notice. Photos: Paul Anthony

You’ll want multiples of this multi tool
This humble tool is one of my
favorites. In fact, I own five or
six of them. One in each car,
one in my installation tool
kit, one in the kitchen tool
drawer, and a couple in the
shop. Why? Because they’re
so darn useful. The double-
ended, replaceable tips work
with 90% of the screws I’m
likely to encounter, plus
the barrel itself serves as a
nut driver—all in one tool.
Usually, I’m a bit skeptical of
multi-function tools, but this
one delivers. Look for ‘em at 5-in-1 driver
your local hardware store. hardware stores, about $10
—Ken Burton, senior editor
NOW HIRING!
FULL-TIME
STAFF EDITOR
We’re looking for a well-rounded
woodworker with publishing
experience to join our team.
Go to woodcraftmagazine.com for job
description and details on how to apply.
Photos: Ken Burton June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 57

Expert Answers Andy Rae
Author of Taunton’s Complete
Illustrated Guide to Furniture
Dovetail Anatomy 101 and Cabinet Construction
Depending on the The answer lies in the joint’s inherent rule of thumb, leave at least 1⁄4" of width at the
drawer opening grain direction, and in your ability narrowest part of a half pin for joint strength.
I need to suit, to size the joint elements. When this isn’t possible, switch your layout to a
I’m discovering that the First off, consider that the perimeter is where sufficiently wide half-pin and a correspondingly
fixed template on my new the most stress occurs with dovetailed corner wide half-tail. Keep in mind that a half-tail needs
dovetail jig doesn’t always joints in drawers and cabinets. If a joint is going extra width at its narrowest section, so keep
allow for terminating a to fail, it’ll happen at the outer edges. That’s why this area as wide as possible for strength.
joint at each end with a it’s a good idea to cluster more pins at the corners Finally, if you’ve decided to lay out one
half-pin, as in traditional to keep these areas as strong as possible. half-pin and one half-tail, position the half-
dovetail drawer joinery. Is The reason for half-pins and not half-tails pin at the top of the drawer or at the front of
it a problem if a joint ends at the corners is, again, for strength: The grain the case, and leave the half-tail at the bottom
on a half-tail instead? in a half-pin runs straight, as opposed to a or back where it’s less likely to be seen.
half-tail where the grain is truncated by the Although a dovetail jig affords speedy
angle of the tail at its inside corner, making this production, I’m a big fan of hand-cut dovetails
area short-grain and subject to breaking. for their hand-made look and feel, the ability to
As you’ve discovered, the fixed layout of a fashion any desired dovetail angle, and the option
Mark Clemmons dovetail jig template doesn’t always allow you to lay out half-pins at the ends every time. n
Cincinnati, Ohio to end with half-pins of sufficient width. As a
58
Ideal hand-cut dovetail configuration Avoid half tails at the ends
Area of strong, uninterrupted Weak area of
straight grain short grain
Tail socket Pin socket

Cluster pins
Half-pin at corners Have a tough
woodworking question?
Acceptable configuration
Avoid thin half-pins; keep at least We’ll do our best to find the expert
1
⁄4" of material on narrow face. If jig forces you to end and provide the answer.
in a half-tail, position it
at bottom of drawer box Email us at [email protected],
or at the back of case and put “EXPERT ANSWERS” in the subject line.
for best appearance. Or mail your query to:
EXPERT ANSWERS
Keep as much
material here as jig Woodcraft Magazine
template allows. P.O. Box 7020
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
Illustrations: Frank Rohrbach III June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 59

Looking Ahead
Here’s a sneak peek at our next issue.
Woodsense
LEOPARD
WOOD
Build this
SIDE TABLE
Build this
Tune up your BIRD MIRROR
JOINTER WITH CARVING
60
Buyer’s Guide
Hot New Tools (p. 20) Choosing the Right Table Saw Blades (p. 41)
1. WoodRiver Heavy-Duty Rip Saw Blade, 10", 24T ................................. #171603, $69.99
1. Triton 450W Oscillating Spindle and Belt sander................................#170035, $234.99
2. WoodRiver Glue Line Rip Saw Blade, 10", 30T......................................#171602, $75.99
2. Leigh TD330 Through Dovetail Jig available at leightools.com, 3. WoodRiver - General-Purpose Thin Kerf Saw Blade, 10", 40T...............#171601, $69.99
but look for it at Woodcraft shelves soon.
4. WoodRiver Precision Trim Saw Blade, 10", 80T................................... #171604, $99.99
5. Freud Table Saw Blade, 10", 50-tooth Combination..............................#127240, $74.97

Featherboards (p. 28) 6. Forrest Woodworker II Table Saw Blade, 10", 40-tooth.......................#148387, $169.99
7. Freud Ripping Table Saw Blade, 10", 24-tooth, FTG............................. #825272, $67.47
1. Micro Jig ZeroPlay Miter Guide Stop ..................................................... #150755, $6.99
8. DeWalt Table Saw Blade, 10", 50-tooth, Combination ATB/R............... #825272, $67.47
9. Freud Table Saw Blade, 10", 80-tooth, TCG, Thin Kerf......................... #825272, $87.97
Counter-height Stool (p. 32)
10. Freud Table Saw Blade, 10", 72-tooth, TCG.........................................#828756, $93.97
1. Whiteside Bearing Template Router Bit, 11⁄8" D, 11⁄2" CL, 1⁄2" SH .............#24A63, $42.99 11. Freud Table Saw Blade, Plastics, 10", 80-tooth, TCG...........................#828654, $92.47
2. Whiteside Standard Up Cut Spiral Router Bit, 3⁄8" D, 1" CL, 3⁄8" SH........#821896, $33.07
Build a Blade Safe (p. 44)
3. Whiteside Carbide Spiral Upcut Router Bit, 1⁄4" D, 1" CL, 1⁄4" SH.............. #03K33, $19.99 1. Freud Box Joint Blade Set................................................................... #831914, $94.97
2. Freud Double Flute Straight Router Bit, 5⁄8" D, 3⁄4" CL, 1⁄4" SH................ #828666, $19.47
4. Whiteside Roundover Router Bit, ⁄16" R, 7⁄8" D, 1⁄2" CL, 1⁄4" SH.................#24B93, $23.99
3
3. Watco Lacquer, Satin, Spray, 111⁄4 oz. ................................................. #146950, $10.99
5. Whiteside Roundover Router Bit, 1⁄8" R, 3⁄4" D, 1⁄2" CL, 1⁄4" SH..................#24B92, $22.99 4. General Finishes Basil Milk Paint, Qt. ..................................................#828542, $29.99
5. Whiteside Flush Tim Router Bit, 3⁄4" D X 1-1⁄2" CL, 1⁄2" SH 3-1⁄2" OL........#405550, $34.08
6. Snappy 5⁄16" Tapered Plug Cutter...........................................................#147654, $11.99
Great Gear (p. 56)
7. Drawing Bow..............................................................leevalley.com, #05N5501, $49.50
1. Pinnacle No. 151 Spokeshave .......................................................... #152803, $126.99
8. General Finishes Arm R Seal Top Coat, Semi-Gloss, Qt...........................#85F07, $19.99 2. Pinnacle No. 1511⁄2 Radius Spokeshave...............................................#153105, $119.99
Items above available at Woodcraft stores, at woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 225-1153, unless otherwise noted. Prices subject to change without notice.
Ad Index
ADVERTISER WEB ADDRESS PAGE ADVERTISER WEB ADDRESS PAGE
The American Woodshop........................wbgu.org/americanwoodshop.............................25 Lignomat...............................................lignomat.com....................................................20
Berea....................................................woodcraft.com...................................................57 Oneida..................................................oneida-air.com...................................... 12, 25, 61
Bosch...................................................boschtools.com.................................................15 PS Wood...............................................pswood.com......................................................57
Carter...................................................carterproducts.com..............................................1 Rikon....................................................rikontools.com................................................ OBC
Connecticut Valley School of WW............schoolofwoodworking.com.................................56 Robert Sorby..........................................robert-sorby.co.uk..............................................14
Freud....................................................woodcraft.com/Freud........................................ IFC Rustoleum.............................................rustoleum.com..................................................21
Go2Toolz...............................................go2toolz.com.....................................................23 Satellite City..........................................caglue.com.......................................................25
Harbor Freight.......................................harborfreight.com........................................ 10, 11 System Three........................................systemthree.com...............................................19
Howard.................................................howardproducts.com.........................................59 Thomas Flinn & Co.................................flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk.....................................58
JessEm.................................................jessem.com.......................................................13 Whiteside Machine.................................whitesiderouterbits.com....................................IBC
JPW......................................................jpwindustries.com................................................5 Woodcraft Franchise..............................woodcraftfranchise.com.....................................51
King Arthur’s Tools.................................katools.com.......................................................17 Woodcraft Magazine..............................woodcraftmagazine.com.................. 20, 22, 57, 61
Kutzall...................................................kutzall.com..........................................................7 Woodcraft Supply...................................woodcraft.com....................................... 27, 59, 63
62
Outfeed
By Ken Burton
I was doing a little shop

reorganization when I
came across a coffee can
with the label “MISC”
written on its lid in my
grandfather’s handwriting.
It contained a jumble of odd hardware
from his shop and some that I had
added over the years before losing track
of it. Seeing that label brought back a
flood of memories. I had inherited this extra hardware that when I go to make has got to be one more.” followed by a
can along with several dozen others a new jig, I can usually cobble together frenzied search of the floor, your tool
whose contents were much more the requisite nuts and bolts for the build box, and anywhere else the wanted
organized when he was downsizing and without a trip to the hardware store. part might be lurking. Inevitably you’ll
getting ready to move into a retire- This is not to say things always match. turn up something that will work. This
ment home. Screws, bolts, washers…he I’ve been known to rethread and cut is not a concept to be taken lightly.
had a wide range of them in cans and down a long bolt to make a shorter one It only ever works once per project,
boxes all meticulously labeled in his (the reverse process is MUCH more maybe even just once per month. But
neat handwriting. As we packed up his difficult, believe me.) and eschew sym- it has worked for me often enough
tools I remember him telling me that he metry with different diameters of fas- to make me a believer. But by writ-
didn’t mind so much giving up his shop teners. There are times, however, when ing about it, I am a little worried that
as he did losing his hardware collection my collection falls just a little bit short. it will never for work for me again.
“just when it had started to be useful.” Before firing up the truck to make Even if this proves true, I will always
Fast forward forty or so years and I the run to the hardware store, I’ve remember the most recent time I said
find myself with a hardware collection come to rely on a bit of shop sorcery those key words. As I was wrapping up
that begins to be useful as well. My with a “law” I call: There is always one a project shortly after that re-org I came
grandfather’s collection is largely gone, more. The time to put this into play is up one corner brace short. After check-
his slotted screws and nails consumed usually late at night when the want of ing all the usual places, I finally found a
by my decades of jig and furniture a single piece of hardware means you usable substitute. Where? In that coffee
making, the coffee cans gradually can’t finish the job at hand until the can with the MISC label. Somewhere,
replaced with plastic tubs, the square hardware store opens in the morning. I suspect my grandfather is smiling. n
nuts giving way to hexagonal ones. At To invoke the law, you say something
this point, I’ve accumulated enough along the lines of “Come on, there
64

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Choosing the right TABLE SAW BLADE

Projects, Techniques and Products

44 Build a Blade Safe

Tools & 28 Featherboards

41 Choosing the Right Table Saw Blades

12 News & Views

24 Tips & Tricks

62 Buyer’s Guide/Ad Index

Cover photo: Ken Burton June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

We’re pleased to announce our newest Woodcraft

A Vietnam War veteran, “I’ve always been interested

The solace of the shop

WM: How did you get asking me to make finished

8 Photos: David Heim

What to know before you mill

June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 9

Chief editor Chad McClung replies:

That looks familiar

Bonding over glue-ups Direct Mail

GARY STEPHENS, CHESAPEAKE, VA

BRIAN BASS, BOISE, ID

Sander for the space-starved and

11⁄2" dust port

All drums, throat Belt sander

Photos: Chad McClung June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 21

Dead simple dovetails

June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 23

the bit to just skirt the surface of the

Zero-clearance chop saw overlay

24 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

Small parts hold-down

Share a Slick Tip. Win Cash or a Prize!

Mounting block Guard mounting board

Elevated status. Raising this featherboard above

Photos: Paul Anthony June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 29

Locking hardware. This slot-mounted featherboard attaches

Illustration: Christopher Mills June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 31

12" Mortise Leg mortise

Photos: Ken Burton; Illustrations: John Hartman June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33

21⁄8" Draw a curve

Unusual means of support. Cut a Make the tenons. Cut a 12-15"

June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 35

Spaced Out. Lay out the mortises on the

Side rail Riser

measured between of the top surface

Add the seat curve

June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 37

Play the angles. With the front

June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 39

Photos: Paul Anthony June/July 2020 | woodcraftmagazine.com 41

Flat Top Grind (FTG) Triple-Chip Grind (TCG)

Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) Combination (ATBR)

Where tooth hook counts

Ripping solid wood

Crosscutting solid wood and sawing plywood

Sawing MDF, melamine, and particleboard

Sawing plastic laminate, nonferrous metal, and plastics

80-tooth TCG. If you saw a lot of

See the Buyer’s guide on p. 62 for pricing information.