Battles Before Time

A Prehistoric Fantasy Miniatures Game

By Rob Lug Lusk

Additional Material by Sam Phoenix,

C. David Ross, & William Littlefield
Art by Chris Malidore, Chuck Quilty, & Don Jackson
Some silhouettes adapted from illustrations by Robert Bruce Horsfall

Playtesting & Sage Advice: Ty Bevington, Cort Esch, Aaron Isaac, Harry Kruger, Carl Parlagreco, Chuck
Quilty, Jess Ray, Lucas Ray, Jon Shields, Kim Shields, Greg Whalen, Mark Zappa, & Elliot Lusk

Proofreading: Harry Kruger

The Jade Tower Studio logo & all original material herein is copyright 2016 by
Rob Lusk. All rights reserved. This material may not be copied or reproduced for
commercial purposes without the written consent of the copyright owner.
Electronic storage for personal use & printing or copying in whole or part for
personal use are permitted. Have fun!
Please send questions or comments via e-mail to [email protected].

Table of Contents

Introduction

Introduction ........................................1
Game Overview ..................2
Scale ....................2
Items Needed to Play ................2
Setting Up the Game .........................................3
Game Turns & Actions ........................................3
Actions When Activated ...........3
Darwinian Measurement ...................................4
Movement ............................................4
Going Prone .........................5
Language (or the Lack Thereof) ...5
Stones & Stone Draws .................5
Contests ...........................................6
Combat ....................................6
Doing Damage .............................................7
Area Effect Attacks ........................................7
Panic ................... 8
End of the Game/Victory! .......................8
Grunt Types ........................9
Warbands ...........................10
Units ..........................................................10
Packs & Grunts ...........................................10
Crew & Riders ............................................10
Heroes .......................................................10
Hero Types .................................................10
Beasts, Beast Masters, & Beast Lords ..................11
Taking Over Beasts ......................................11
Riding Beasts ...............................................11
Prehistoric Mammals ......................................12
Dinosaurs .........................................................13
Bird-Like Creatures ..........................................15
Aquatic Creatures .............................................15
Monsters ........................................16
Size ................................................17
Good Stuff: Abilities ...............................18
Weapons (Melee & Ranged) ..............................20
Armor .............................................................21
Other Stuff (Standards & Torches) ..................21
Watercraft & Swimming ............................21
Cavepunk Inventions .......................................22
Bad Stuff ..........................................................23
Magic, Shamans & Spells ..................................23
Costs ...............................................................25

Battles Before Time is a tabletop miniatures game

set in an alternate prehistory where our Human
ancestors the Early Modern Humans, or Emohs
for short rub elbows with Neanderthals, Dino
sapiens (dinosaur men), Florz (small Emohs), &
other species. Dinosaurs still roam the Earth &
magic actually works!
However, the days of many species are numbered.
An ice age is approaching, driving everyone
farther south, & competition for the best hunting
grounds is fierce. Clans & tribes frequently send
warbands out to claim territory, settle grudges,
& steal women & children from other clans. You
& your opponent(s) control warbands consisting
of several packs of cavemen, beasts, or monsters.
Your warband also include Solo units that can
operate independently. Your warbands battle for
objectives, or just for fun.
If you have played other miniatures games
before, youll learn these rules in no time. If you
havent, fear not! Battles Before Time is quick &
easy to learn. There isnt a lot of material here
thats truly original. I owe a huge debt to the
creators of many skirmish games Ive enjoyed
over the years (Shane Hensley, Steve Lawrence, &
Howard Whitehouse in particular). As these rules
have evolved, Ive incorporated variants of many
favorite mechanics from other games. I hope
you enjoy the final product. Thank you for trying
these rules, & best of luck on the field of battle!

Game Overview
Battles Before Time games are played on a
tabletop or similar surface around 3 feet (3)
by 3 feet (3). If possible, cover the playing
surface with suitable terrain; rocks & sticks
from your yard are a good start.
A variety of prehistoric-ish species can serve in
your warband, & some gain helpful bonuses.
Your troops can be outfitted with melee
weapons, missile weapons, or both, as well as
armor & shields in some cases.
Each side draws for initiative each turn, &
each side alternates activating units. Players
are encouraged to use Cave-Speak (essentially,
talk like toddlers) during their turn.
A unique game mechanic is used to resolve
all actions: the Stone Draw. Every time they
attempt an action or have a contest with
another player, a player draws from a pool of
tokens consisting of 3 kinds of stones. Bonuses
& penalties add to or subtract from the number
of stones drawn. Most actions have the same
target for success, so they are resolved quickly.
Players can use one of the pre-made warbands
provided in a second PDF (Part Two), or can
create their own balanced warbands using a
simple point build system. Part Two includes
templates, stat cards, & all the tokens youll
need.

Scale
Battles Before Time is played on a 1:1
actual troops: figures scale. If you are using
28-30 mm figures, 1 on the tabletop
equals around 6 feet in real life. Weapon
ranges are deliberately short to improve
playability. Turns are fast, & represent a
variable period of seconds, each averaging
around 10 seconds in game time.

Items Needed to Play

In addition to these rules, youll need the items
listed here to play the game.

Miniatures: Any number from 5 to around

50 per side (mostly grouped in units of 5 figures

each). Scales used in these rules are designed
for 28-30 mm human-sized figures, but can
be easily adjusted for other scales. There are
also figure flats (paper miniatures that can
be printed & mounted on bases) available to
use for prehistoric troops & creatures.

Stones: While you can use paper tokens

(provided in Part Two) for stones, cheap glass

beads found at craft & dollar stores work much
better. More on these shortly.

Tokens & Templates: Print & cut out the

paper templates & tokens included in Part Two

(use cardstock if possible) or use the suggested
alternatives noted under some tokens
descriptions.

Oops! Stick: Get a pipe cleaner or stick of

very light wood (like balsa) around 6 long.

Mark one end red & the other green. This is
used for deviation on ranged attacks.

A playing area. A table with 3 by 3 of

gaming space is ideal for smaller games; larger

games work better on a 4 by 6 table.

Scenery: Depending on your scenario, you

might want to represent woods, a rocky plain,

or a settlement along a river.

Players: 2 (1 per side) to around 8 (4 per

side).

Unit cards: unit cards contain information

about the units of grunts, heroes, beasts,
& monsters youll be using. Unit cards are
provided in Part Two (they can be printed or
copied).

Optional: Event cards (also in Part Two).

Event cards add unpredictable & interesting

twists to the game if you choose to include
them.

Setting Up the Game

Follow these steps to set up your game. If you
have a pre made scenario, you can skip many of
these steps.
1. Decide on the number of points for each side
(100-250 is typical once you try a game or two).
2. Based on the number of points, prepare your
playing area (3 feet x 3 feet is usually good for
100 points or less)
3. Place terrain based on your scenario, alternate
placement of pieces between players (try to
make it fair & look realistic if you do this), or use
the scenario generator in Part Two. Designate
wooded areas & their edges. Randomly decide
which table side youll start on after terrain is
placed if you dont have a scenario.
4. Choose your forces, & either place them per
your scenario or place them within 1 Hand (6)
of your table edge.
5. Each side can look at the other sides unit cards
as needed.
6. Each side gets 1 Event card (optional; explained
later) per 50 points. Now the battle can begin!

Game Turns & Actions

At the start of each turn, determine
who has initiative (Me Go First!):
Each side chooses a Hero who makes an
Action Draw (subtract -1 from your draw for
each unit on your side with Stupid; re-draw
ties). The side that wins activates 1 of their units
(& gets an Event card if you are using these
cards). For example, if you have a unit with 5
figures, your highest Action Draw will be 5. So,
your initiative Draw will be 5 (subtract -1 from
this draw for every unit you have with Stupid).
Seizing the Initiative: If 1 side wins the initiative
by 3+ points, they have seized the initiative
this turn. This means that they get to activate 2
units at the start of the turn before the other
side gets to activate their first unit. In addition,
the first unit activated gets +1 to all of its draws
for the rest of this turn. If it stays Ready (see
below), it doesnt get this bonus next turn. You
also get 2 Event cards instead of just 1.

Rest of the Turn: Each side alternates activating

1 unit of their choice until all units on the side with

fewer units have taken their actions. The remaining
units on the other side then take their actions.
Once all units have taken their actions, the turn
is over. Place a Gone! token on unit cards of units
that have acted to keep track if needed.

Actions When Activated

Most units may Walk up to 1 Hand in any
direction & do one of the following:

Throw or Shoot a Ranged Weapon

Attack with a Melee or Natural
Weapon (if adjacent to an enemy figure)
Use Good Stuff: These are specified in the

units stats; most Good Stuff is always active &

doesnt count as an action.

Run: Most units can run an additional Hand.

You may attack if you come into contact with
an enemy figure after running, but may not take
any other actions.

Recover from Panic: As long as they

havent lost any figures during the current turn,
Panicking units can make an Action Draw at the
start of their action to recover from Panicking.
See the Panic! section for details on making
Panic checks.

Ready: When they activate, units can declare

they are waiting to take their action. This is

called Ready. Ready units cant move or take
actions (put a Ready Marker near the unit). They
can then automatically act just after any enemy
unit finishes its activation, or can attempt to
interrupt & go after a friendly unit acts but just
before the next enemy unit activates.
o A unit may stay Ready for an entire turn; if
they do, they start the next turn Ready.

To interrupt an enemys action, both units

make Action Draws (-1 if the unit is Stupid)
the high drawer goes first, & the loser goes
immediately after (go in order if multiple units
interrupt at the same time). Redraw ties.

Darwinian Measurement

Movement

Those with the largest hands survive! Rulers not

invented yet? No problem! Use Hands & fingers
for distance measurement (including movement &
ranged weapons). One Hand is the distance from
the tip of the index finger to the tip of the thumb
on the same outstretched hand. Do NOT measure
pinkie tip to thumb tip thats cheating!
One Finger is the distance from the tip of your
index finger to its base (where the 3rd crease forms
when you curl your finger). Two Fingers = 1 Hand.
One Finger is roughly equal to 3 on the tabletop.
Crawling or half moves = 1 Finger. Creatures
move distances are noted on their unit cards.
Additional movement distances not covered may
be improvised.

Normal Move (on Open Ground): Most

Ranges for missile weapons & powers are also

given in Hand & Finger increments. For
example, short range for a bow is up to 2 Hands;
long range is up to 4 Hands.
Knuckles - the distance from your index fingers
tip to your first joint - are also sometimes used.
Note: if you have players with significantly
different-sized hands (e.g., adults & children), you
may use a measuring stick (included in Part Two)
instead of their hands. Count 1 Hand as 6 inches, 1
Finger as 3 inches, & 1 Knuckle as 1 inch.

required horizontal distance of their Beast Master/

Lord, & can climb no higher than 4 Hands.

figures can walk up to 1 Hand in any direction

(+1 Finger if you have the Fast Good Thing); you
can end up facing any direction. Some beasts &
monsters have different movements (noted on
their unit cards).

Run: units usually add up to 1 Hand to their

normal move; this takes up their entire action

(although if they come into contact with an
enemy figure, they can attack it with a melee
weapon without penalty). Figures on foot can
run 2 Hands total (+1 Finger if they have the Fast
Good Thing). Beasts & monsters Run distances
are on their unit cards (most also run 2 Hands).

Flying: Flying creatures must stay within the

Keep track of your height, & use actual distance

to the figure to determine ranges, etc.
Flyers can move up to 4 Hands horizontally
(minimum 1 Hand); they can climb up to 2
Hands, or dive up to 3 Hands.

Attacks & Movement: A unit may attack at

any point during its movement - before, during, or

after. For example, a unit can move 1 Finger, fire,
& then move another Finger. A unit can move,
make a melee attack, & move again; however,
they are subject to an attack if they leave combat:
Leaving Combat: If a character tries to move
away from 1 or more enemies he was fighting
in melee, the opponent(s) get an immediate
free melee attack (Panicking or Chilling enemies
dont get an attack).

Climb, Crawl, Long Jump, or Swim (if

not Aquatic): up to 1 Finger (1 Hand if Swift)
Rough Terrain: Half movement. Includes
forests, jungles, steep hills, & rough ground (clarify
this before the battle begins).

Note: Characters with the One With Nature

Good Thing can walk/run through woods &
jungles without penalty.

Obstacles: -1 Finger of movement to cross if

< to the figures height. Obstacles greater than a
figures height cannot be crossed.

Prone / Going Prone / Getting Up:

Figures can hit the dirt (go prone) with no

movement penalty. Standing up again costs 1 finger
of movement (but prone figures being attacked in
melee can automatically stand up).
Prone figures make enemies more than 1 Hand
away subtract 1 from Ranged Attack Draws.
Designate prone figures in some fashion (e.g., by
laying them face down or with a Prone token).

Language

(Or the Lack Thereof)

To capture the spirit of the game, players are

encouraged to use crude, toddler-level speech
when one of their units is activated. Vocabulary
should be limited, & complex & unnecessary
words should be eliminated in their entirety.
Any & all grammatical concerns are also to be
completely ignored. Word order & pronoun
reversal is encouraged, as is inter-spacing or even
replacing entire words with grunts, gestures, &
nonsense sounds that may or may not have any
real intended meaning.
A good rule of thumb is that if you can barely
understand what a player is saying, then youre
doing it right. Examples: Me want smash Dino
guy! We run, go far!
If an impartial Cave Master is running the game,
they can encourage this kind of talk (and other
excellent roleplaying) by handing out bonus Shiny
stones.

Stones & Stone Draws

There are 3 types of stones in the game. In order
to determine the outcomes of your attempted
actions, youll draw stones from a pool of Stone
tokens. Actions are resolved by drawing from this
container, attempting to get as many Shiny stones
as possible.
These are referred to as Stone Draws in general,
& sometimes as specific types like Combat Draws.
Add any bonuses to the number of stones
you draw, & subtract any penalties from this
number.
After a player finishes drawing all her stones for a
Stone Draw, she replaces them & mixes them up
before the next draw is made.

Heres what the different

colors of stones mean:
Dull stones:
Use the least exciting color you
have for Dull stones. Dont count toward success
on an action.
Shiny stones:
Any reasonably bright color
will do; make sure it contrasts with your Dull
stones. Count toward success on an action. When
you need to succeed on an action, you need a
modified total of at least 3 Shiny stones.
Glory stone:
Unique in color, Glory stones
count as 2 Shiny stones. So, if you draw 1 Glory
stone & 1 Shiny stone, it counts as 3 Shiny stones.

Starting Stone Stash: Each player starts with

3 Shiny stones that can be added to the result of

any Stone Draw except Damage Draws (your
Stash). Keep your Stash separate from the Pool.
You can add as many Shiny stones as youd like
after you make a Stone Draw until you run out.

Stone Pool: Put stones in 1 or more

containers the players cant see into when they
draw from them. The containers should each have
6 Shiny stones, 3 Dull stones, & 1 Glory stone
(10 stones total).

Stone Draws

When a player attempts an action that isnt free,

she will need to make a Stone Draw from the
pool to succeed. Your unit card shows how many
stones you should draw. Draw this many stones
from the container.
Youll make Stone Draws for:
Initiative (at the start of each turn)
Attacks (ranged & melee)
Using Bluster (threaten & intimidate)
Casting spells
Doing damage
Making Panic (& recovery from Panic) checks
Taking over beasts or monsters (if enemy
Beast/Monster Masters have gone Bye-Bye)
The more Shiny stones you draw, the better. Your
Stone Draw is modified by bonuses & penalties
noted under descriptions of actions. In other
words, if your Stone Draw is 3, you normally draw
3 stones when you attempt an action. If you have
a bonus of +1, you draw 4; if you have a penalty
of -1, you draw 2.

ALL bonuses & penalties add or subtract from

the number of stones drawn.
If the number of stones you get to draw is < 1,
you have no chance to succeed, so dont bother
drawing unless you add Shiny stones from your
stash. Draws of 8+ are AUTOMATICALLY
critical successes (no need to draw these either).
You can spend 1 or more of the Shiny stones from
your Stash to add to any Draw except damage.
You can do this after the initial draw is made.

SUCCESS: The target for success of all Stone

Draws for attempted actions is 3 Shiny stones

(except for Contests & some spells). If you draw
5 or more Shiny stones, it is considered a critical
success (or crit), which can give you a bonus.

Remember: 3 Hits, 5 Crits!
Contests

In some situations, the target number for success is

1 more than the Stone Draw made by the opposing
unit. This is referred to as a Contest. All players
involved in a Contest can add any number of
Shiny stones from their Stash to the Draw. Repeat
the Draw if theres a tie until 1 unit wins.

Uses for Your Shiny Stone Stash

Turn in 1 Shiny stone at ANY time to:
Draw 1 Event card
Add +1 to a Stone Draw (NOT Damage Draws)
Prevent 1 Ouchie of Damage just taken by a figure.

Suggestions for stones: Buy floral glass

beads of the same size at a craft or dollar
store (different colors have to feel the same to
players when drawn). Colors should be easily
distinguishable, Make your Dull stones clear
or a light color. Use a single bright color for
the Shiny stones. The Glory stone should be a
unique color.
Use half coconut shells (or something similar)
as containers, & hold them high enough that
you cant see into them when you draw. To
speed the game up, consider having multiple
sets of stones available (ideally 1 per player).
Buy a cheap plastic caveman club or bone so
players can threaten & beat each other during
the battle. Actually, you may want to be careful
with that last suggestion!

Combat
1. When activated, each unit may make a

melee attack against an enemy unit in baseto-base contact, or a ranged attack against
an enemy unit in range & line of sight. This is
a single Action Draw for the unit, with any
relevant combat-related modifiers added or
subtracted. Ranged weapons cannot be
used if you are in melee combat.

2. Find the units base Action Draw:

Number of figures for packs; 3 or 4 for heroes/

crew/some creatures (noted on unit card).

3. Add any bonuses to hit to your Draw

from Good Stuff & Opponents Size bonus.

Pile On: +1 to your Melee Attack Draw

for every figure (beyond the first) you have

in base-to-base contact with an enemy figure
that outnumbers the figure (up to +4).

4. Subtract penalties to hit from your Draw:

-1 to Draws:
If targets Size is -1
To hit targets in Light Cover (target
obscured but < half behind solid cover;
includes targets in flora within 1 Finger of
floras edge)
To hit Prone targets with ranged weapons
(>1 Hand away)
Using ranged weapons from a moving
beast/chariot/howdah

-2 to Draws:
For long range (> half total range)
To hit targets in Heavy Cover (> half of
target behind solid cover).

5. Make your Attack Draw!

Drawing 3 Shiny stones hits;
Drawing 5+ Shiny stones causes a Crit,
which adds +1 to your Damage Draw.
Drawing less than 3 Shiny stones is a miss.

6. If you hit, Make your Damage Draw

(as described on the next page):

Combat, Continued
Make your Damage Draw!
Draw the number of stones listed for the
units weapon, subject to the following:

Area Effect Attacks

Area Effect Attacks: Bomb & spell

Subtract any penalties for armor or other

relevant Good Stuff your opponent has

effects that cover a large area are called area

effect attacks. Area affect attacks cover a 1
Finger diameter circle (the round template)
or the cone template.

Crit: If you drew 5+ to hit, Add +1 to

your damage draw.

To attack with an Area Effect

Bomb/Spell:

Your targeted unit takes this many Ouchies

- but ONLY figures directly targeted by
attacks take Ouchies - any additional Ouchies
caused are ignored. Distribute Ouchies as
evenly as possible if you had multiple targets.
Mark off the Ouchies on your unit card. If
the unit is a pack, remove pack members as
Ouchies are taken.
Example: Your hero is fighting 2 grunts in
melee, & causes 3 Ouchies. Both grunts are
removed; the 3rd Ouchie has no effect.
Track Ouchies on the unit card. The unit is
eliminated when they take their last Ouchie.
1 grunt is removed from a unit for each
Ouchie taken unless the unit consists of Small
or Big creatures. Packs of Small creatures only
have 4 Ouchies; the last 2 figures are removed
when the 4th Ouchie is taken. Packs of Big
creatures have 6 Ouchies; the last figure takes
2 Ouchies before it goes Bye-Bye.

Firing Ranged Weapons Into Melee is

not allowed.

Note on Targets
A figure can attack a target that it could
reasonably see & hit. Add penalties to hit for
cover as appropriate. You can see 1 finger
into & out of jungles & other dense flora
(figures >1 Finger inside thick flora cant be
targeted or target figures >1 Finger away).
Figures mounted on beasts/monsters can
only be hit by melee weapons if the figures
weapon can reasonably touch the target.
Please use common sense to make decisions
(e.g., if all you can see is the top of your
targets weapon, you cant shoot him).

Put the template on the desired target.

The cone templates pointed end must be
adjacent to the attacker.
Draw your Action Draw with any +/modifiers for ranged attacks.
If the draw is successful: You hit your
target! Every figure touched by the template
is affected.
Note: unlike direct attacks, area effect
attacks do not make Crits unless noted.
Failure means the attack deviates. Hold
the Oops! Stick at least 1 Hand above your
aiming point (with the red end pointing
straight down) & drop it; the bomb deviates
in the direction the green end is pointing.
Deviation is 1 Finger for short range & 1
Hand for long range.

End of the Game

Games usually end when one side decides its had
enough, or other preconditions are met. At this
point, each side adds up the points of all figures
eliminated from the game or Panicking when the
game ends (unless the scenario says otherwise).

Panic
Triggers for Panic Checks:
Coming < 1 Hand of creatures that Cause Fear
The Fearsome Rant spell
When a unit loses half of its original Ouchies
When a unit that has already lost half of its
original Ouchies loses 1+ more Ouchies (draw
once at the end of any action when you take
more Ouchies).

Making the Panic Check:

Add +1 to your Draw if you have Moxie; +2
if you have Lotsa Moxie or are Size Huge+.
Subtract -1 from your draw if you are Chicken.

If you draw 3+, your unit fights on.

If you draw <3, your unit Panics (place
a Panic Token near it). It immediately runs at

its top speed directly toward the nearest relatively

safe board edge, & gets no other actions. Units
that reach the board edge are removed from play.
At the start of your action after Panicking,
(& later actions if needed), make an Action
Draw to recover & move to Chillin status. If
you draw a 3+, you stop Panicking & move
to Chillin status.
If youre already Panicking & take
Ouchies, you dont need to make another
Panic check, but you cant attempt to Chill
(recover) in a turn when youve taken
Ouchies before your action. You just run
again on your action this turn.
Chillin: units that are Chillin may turn
around & reform, but cant move or take
any other actions until next turn (flip the
units Panic Token to the Chillin side).

Next, figure out the percentage of your starting

points lost. The side with the bigger percentage
loses. Subtract the winners loss percentage from
the losers, & determine the level of victory using
this chart. Again, scenarios may add additional
victory conditions.

Victory Determination Chart:

Difference
In % Lost

Battle Results

Draw
Bragging Rights
Sweet Victory!
Epic Victory!

1-10
11-30
31-70
71-100

For example, Thun & Brak finish a 100 point game

& count up casualties. Thun lost 28% of his total
points, & Brak lost 69% of his. Subtracting Thuns
28% loss from Braks 69% loss gives a casualty
difference of 41 - a sweet victory for Thun,
though not an epic one.

Grunt Types
Emohs

(Early Modern

Humans)

Emohs are cavemen

like Cro Magnons
who were around at
the beginning of the
Later Stone Age about
50,000 years ago.
Emohs are extremely
primitive
by
21st
century standards &
have relatively poor
control over their
emotions (hence the
name is fitting!).

Neanderthals
(Homo
Neanderthalensis)

Neanderthals are
a subspecies of
Homo sapiens.
They tend to
be stocky, hairy,
strong, & have a
stooped posture.
Neanderthal
units add +1 to
Melee Damage
Draws.

Emohs dont start

with any Good Stuff,
but can purchase most
of it.

Dino sapiens

Troglodytes
Trogs are a lot like
primitive orcs - &
orcs are pretty
primitive to begin
with! Trogs are
usually green or
blue in color.

(Dinosaur Man)

Dino sapiens are a sentient (albeit not terribly

bright) race of bipedal dinosaur men.
Several different types of dinosaurs have evolved
into Dino sapiens, including Raptors & Triceratops.
While technically not dinosaurs, Pteranodon Men
who can fly are also included.

Troglodytes are
Big & add +1 to
Melee Damage
Draws.

Florz (Homo floresiensis)

Florz look a lot like
diminutive Emohs. Florz
are naturally skilled with
bows & other ranged
weapons, & are often
hired for this reason.

Dino sapiens units add +1 to Melee Attack

Draws.

Florz are Small, but

add +1 to Ranged
Attack Draws.

Warbands

Each player controls a warband (or part of a

warband if there are multiple players per side).
You can use one of the sample warbands weve
provided to start playing immediately, or you can
customize your own using a simple point system.
We recommend starting with 25-50 points per
warband to get a feel for the game. You can then
try more points to make your warbands more
powerful once you learn the rules.

Units
Units can come from a variety of species. Some
cost more than others, but include helpful bonuses.
Your warband is made up of units, each with an
associated cost & benefits. Units can be either
single figures called Solos, or they can be Packs
(groups) of Grunts, Beasts, & Monsters. Solos
can be individual heroes, crew/riders, beasts, or
monsters; packs usually have 5 members (thats as
high as most cavemen can count).
Also, the terms character, creature & figure
are used interchangeably to describe a single figure
in your warband. The game is focused on the use
of units of multiple cavemen (called grunts for
obvious reasons), but includes plenty of Solos too.
Unit cards detail the information you need to use
your figures in battle. Each unit you purchase has a
unit card. Keep your unit cards handy (e.g., place
them along your edge of the game table) so you
can easily refer to them. Heres a sample unit card
to give you an idea of what they look like:

Units may sometimes purchase Good Stuff to make

them stronger, & take Bad Stuff to get more points
to spend. They can also purchase armor, weapons,
& other stuff like spells & cavepunk inventions.

Pack Cohesion: All members of packs of grunts,

beasts, & monsters must stay within 1 Finger of

at least 1 other member of the pack whenever
possible. If a figure gets separated from its pack, it
must use its full movement each action to get back
in cohesion with its pack.

Packs
Packs make a single Attack Draw to hit in combat,
with all relevant bonuses added to this Draw (the
number of figures currently in the pack).
Packs start with 5 members; this means 5 of the
same type of creature equipped the same way.

Grunts
Grunts operate in packs of 5 (except for crew/
riders). Grunts can take 1 Ouchie each before they
go Bye-Bye unless they are Big or Small.

Crew/Riders
Crew/riders are grunts who have the Solo Good
Thing, & can operate independently of a pack.
They are used to operate cavepunk devices & ride
beasts & monsters.

Heroes
Heroes are cavemen, dinosaur men & trogs who
are more powerful than typical pack members.
Heroes are always Solos (fight independently from
other units). They can usually take 5 Ouchies, &
have a base Action Draw of 3 or 4 (noted on their
unit card).

Hero Types
Heroes are more powerful than typical pack
members. Here are the types included:

Emoh

Heroes have no
inherent Good Stuff, but can
purchase a wide variety of
abilities, weapons, & armor.
Emohs are more versatile than
other species, & can specialize in
many different areas.

Dino sapiens Heroes have

a built-in bonus to hit in melee

combat, & can be Small, mansized, or Big. They can take a
number of abilities, & more
primitive arms & armor. Dino
sapiens primarily focus on melee
combat.

Florz

Heroes are experts

with missile weapons like bows

despite being small in stature.
Florz may purchase limited
abilities, weapons, & armor.

Neanderthal Heroes have

a built-in melee damage bonus.

They can take a number of abilities
as well as primitive weapons
& armor. Like Dino sapiens,
Neanderthals specialize in melee
combat.

Troglodyte Heroes also have

a melee damage bonus included,

& are larger than caveman-sized.
They can buy some abilities,
primitive weapons, & armor.

Beasts
Beasts are prehistoric creatures that really existed,
though they can be from any era. Beasts include
selected dinosaurs, prehistoric mammals, birdlike creatures, & aquatic creatures. You must have
a Beast Master or Lord of the Beasts to purchase
beasts. Since creature size varied tremendously
across the ages, there are 10 possible Sizes of beasts
(but dont worry - Sized-based bonuses/penalties
are easy to track!).

Beast Master:
Allows you to buy beasts up to Huge Size. Beasts
assigned to a Beast Master must stay within 3 Hands
of their Beast Master at all times (if they exceed this
distance their top priority is to use movement to
get within it unless they are Panicked).

Lord of the Beasts:

Allows you to purchase any sized beasts. Only 1
Beast Lord is allowed per side. Beasts assigned
to a Beast Lord must stay within 4 Hands of their
Beast Lord at all times (if they exceed this distance
their top priority is to use movement to get back
within it unless they are Panicked).

Types of Beasts Controlled:

Generally, Emohs, Florz, & Neanderthal Beast
Masters/Lords can buy prehistoric mammals; Dino
sapiens usually buy dinosaurs. Any kind of Beast
Master/Lord can buy prehistoric birds except for
Pteranodons, who are usually purchased by Dino
sapiens. Any Beast Master/Lord can buy/control
Aquatic Creatures.

What if My Beast Master/

Lord Goes Bye-Bye?
If you have a remaining Beast Lord or Beast
Master(s), you can assign the beasts as youd like.
These beasts must use their move to get into their
new masters control range.

Taking Over Enemy Beasts:

If an enemy Beast Master goes Bye-Bye (& there
are no other Beast Masters nor a Lord of the Beasts
left on their side), your Beast Master(s) may use
an action to try to take over 1 enemy beast unit
within 2 Hands. Make an Opposed Draw; your
Beast Master gets +1 (+2 if they are a Beast Lord).
The beast adds its size bonus/subtracts its size
penalty from its Draw.

Beast Master & Lord of the Beasts

Riding Beasts:

Once purchased, beasts are assigned to a specific

Beast Master or your Beast Lord (size doesnt
matter for who controls the beast). You can assign
as many beasts as you want to a particular Beast
Master/Lord. While in their control range, the
beasts will follow commands to move, run, stay
Ready, &/or attack.

Any hero or crew may ride on a beast of appropriate

size (or in a howdah on a beast). A beast that has
been taken over (see below) can make an opposed
Action Draw vs. any riders/crew to try to shake
them off. If you fall off, take a Damage Draw of 1
for each Knuckle fallen. Place your figure Prone &
adjacent to the beast.

Prehistoric Mammals
A variety of prehistoric mammals are represented
in Battles Before Time; see the unit cards for size
comparisons to a typical caveman. Mammals are
grouped into sizes in the following chart:

Small
Notes: Packs, 5/pack, Need
Mammal Beast Master to buy/control
Cave Dog

Big
Mammals
Dire Wolf

Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Master to buy/control; can

have 1 man-sized or 2 Small
riders

Really Big
Mammals

Aurochs

Cave Bear

12 long & up to 500-1500

pounds (depending on specific
species, so they can be Really
Big too). Look like modern
deer, only bigger, with giant
antlers.

Solos; Need
Beast Master to buy/
control; can have multiple
Big or man-sized riders
Resembles a giant rhino
with 2 big horns, around 10
long, 5,000+ pounds.

Brontotherium

A rhino-type creature with

2 smaller side-by-side horns
curving upward. Around
4,000 pounds.

Doedicurus

Sort of a giant armadillo

with a big spiky tail,
sometimes weighing over
4,000 pounds.

Elasmotherium

Looks a lot like a massive

Woolly Rhino (up to
10,000 pounds), although
it is unclear what form the
horn(s) takes.

Megatherium

A nearly elephant-sized
ground sloth weighing up to
8,000 pounds.

Woolly Rhino

Giant, shaggy Rhino, around

5-6,000 pounds.

Very large, 5 long, up to 400

pounds.

Very Big Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Master to buy/control; can
Mammal have 1 Big or 1 man-sized rider

Notes:

Arsinoitherium

Various sizes, 30-75 pounds,

usually look wolflike.

Saber-Tooth The classic saber-toothed

tiger 6+ long, weighs up to
Tiger
around 400 pounds.

Deer,
Prehistoric

Huge
Mammals

Gigantic
Mammals

Notes:

Mammoth

Woolly Mammoth, up to
13,000 pounds.

Mastodon

American Mastodon can

be up to 12,000 pounds,
Colombian Mastodon up to
20,000 pounds.

Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Solos; Need
Beast Lord to buy/control;
can have multiple riders

Master
to
buy/control;
Aurochs can have 1 Big or 1
man-sized rider

Ginormous
Mammals

Look a lot like huge bulls with

big horns. Aurochs Bulls were
sometimes 6 tall & weighed
more than 3,000 pounds.

Paraceratherium

A rhino-like creature with

no horn, weighing up to
30,000 pounds.

Stegodon

An elephant-like creature
with massive tusks, weighing
up to around 28,000
pounds.

Giant bears, up to 10 long &

2,000 pounds.

Notes:

Solos; Need
Beast Lord to buy/control;
can have multiple riders

Types of Dinosaurs
So many dinosaurs, so little room! Battles Before
Time features a selection of dinosaurs that mostly
come from the following groups:
Theropods (Beast
Foot): Carnivorous
dinosaurs that stand/
move on their hind
legs. Range from
Small to Ginormous
in size.
Raptors & T. Rex are good examples. Many
Theropods have feathers, nasty claws &/or teeth,
& can run relatively fast.

Dinosaurs, Continued
CavemanNotes: Packs: 5/pack; Need
sized
Beast Master to buy/control
Dinosaurs
Around 4 tall, up to 200
Deinonychus pounds, 11 long Theropod,
Birdlike, nasty claws.

Trodon

Sauropods (Lizard Foot):

Herbivorous dinosaurs that

walk on four legs & often grow
to enormous sizes. They include
classic dinosaurs such as the
Diplodocus & Brachiosaurus.
Thyreophora (Shield
Bearer): Huge armored
dinosaurs such as the
Stegosaurus & Ankylosaurus.
These herbivores often have
spiked or clubbed tails.

Ceratopsians (Horned Face):

Armored herbivores like the

Triceratops; & Ornithopods
(Bird Feet): Dinosaurs like the
Iguanodon (also herbivores).
Heres a table with information about lots of
dinosaurs. If you want to add more, you can pick
a comparable Dinosaurs stats or use the Cost List
to create your own. Note: the Cost List is not
included in the printed booklet due to space
constraints, but is included in the PDF download
that comes with the booklet.

Small
Notes: Packs: 5/pack; Need
Dinosaurs Beast Master to buy/control
Oviraptor

6 long, 75 pounds. Small

Therapod, birdlike look, big,
nasty beak.

5 long, 30-35 pounds Small

Velociraptor
Therapod, nasty claws & fangs.

Birdlike (think giant, mad

rooster) Theropod, 3 tall. 8
long, up to 110 pounds.

Very Big
Dinosaur

Notes:

Dilophosaurus

A big Theropod with 2 crests

on its head. Around 20 long,
1,000 pounds.

Solos; Need Beast

Master to buy/control; can have
1 Big or 1 man-sized rider

Really Big Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Master to buy/control; can have
Dinosaurs 1 Big or 1 man-sized rider
Carnotaurus

Large Theropod, up to 30
long, 3,000 pounds.

Ceratosaurus

Large Theropod, up to 20
long, 2,000 pounds.

Megalosaurus

Large Theropod, up to 30
long, 2,000 pounds.

Megaraptor

Large Theropod (like small T.

Rex), up to 25 long, 2,500
pounds.

Utahraptor

Large Theropod, up to 24
long, 3,000 pounds.

Dinosaurs, Continued
Notes:

Dinosaurs

Solos; Need Beast Master

to buy/control; can have multiple
riders as appropriate

Allosaurus

Huge Theropod, up to 40 long,

weighing up to 10,000 pounds.

Huge

Amarga- Smaller Sauropod, with spiky

neck; 6,000 pounds, up to 33
saurus
long.
Ankylosaurus

Typical Thyreophora, the torso

& head of an Ankylosaurus are
protected by bone plates; the tail
has a club at the end. Around 30
long, 8,000+ pounds.

Gigantic Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Dinosaurs, Lord to buy/control; can have
Continued multiple riders as appropriate
Therizinosaurus

Large Theropod, massive claws,

30 long, 12,000 pounds.

Triceratops

Prototypical Ceratopsian, 30
long, 20,000+ pounds.

Tyranno- The king of the predators,

around 40 long, 12,000
saurus Rex pounds.

Ginormous
Dinosaur

Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Lord to buy/control; can have
multiple riders as appropriate

Spinosaurus

Enormous Theropod up to 50
long & 30,000 pounds, the
Spinosaurus has a huge plate
going down its spine.

Gar-GanChoo-An
Dinosaur

Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Lord to buy/control; can have
multiple riders as appropriate

Diplodocus

Gargantuan Sauropod up to 90
long, but only around 40,000
pounds.

Gigantic Notes: Solos; Need Beast Lord

to buy/control can have multiple
Dinosaurs riders as appropriate.

Earth
Shaker!
Dinosaurs

Notes: Solos; Need Beast

Lord to buy/control; can have
multiple riders as appropriate

Giganoto- A huge Carnosaur, up to 45 long

& 16,000 pounds.
saurus

Apatosaurus

Massive Sauropod up to 80
long & 70,000 pounds.

Penta- Large Ceratopsid, up to 27 long,

ceratops 11,000 pounds.

Brachiosaurus

Another massive Sauropod up

to 80 long, 80,000 pounds.

Baryonyx

Very Large Theropod, possibly

up to 5,000 pounds & 30 long.

Iguanodon

Large Ornithopod, up to 30
long, 10,000 pounds.

Parasauro- Another big Ornithopod, up to

30 long, 6,000 pounds.
lophus

Stegosaurus
Styracosaurus

Saltasaurus

Thyreophora/Stegosauridae
family; up to 30 long, 7,000
pounds.
Similar to Triceratops, up to 18
long, 6,000 pounds.

Smaller Sauropod with some

armor, up to 40 long, 15,000
pounds.

Bird-Like Prehistoric Beasts

Here are a few prehistoric flyers & big flightless
birds:

Big
Birdlike
Creatures

Packs: 5/pack; Need Beast

Master to purchase/control

Pteranodon

Flying reptile. Not that heavy,

but Big due to 20 wingspan.
Can carry 1 Small rider.

Terror
Bird

Big, flightless birds with nasty

beaks. Also Gastornis or
Diatryma; around 400 pounds.
Can have a caveman-sized rider.

Very Big
Birdlike
Creature
Quetzalcoatlus

Notes

Aquatic Prehistoric Beasts

To wrap up the Beasts section, here is a small
selection of aquatic prehistoric creatures for use
in games that include a significant body of water:

Notes

Solos; Need Beast Master to buy/

control

Relatively large flyer. Considered

Very Big due to wing size;
around 500 pounds. Can carry
1-2 man-sized or smaller riders.

Aquatic
Creatures

Notes

Solos; Need Beast Master to buy/

control

Dakosaurus

Really Big; looks like a smaller

version of the Mosasaurus,
around 15 long & displacing 1
ton; a nasty carnivore.

Kronosaurus

Gar-Gan-Choo-An; A nasty
Pliosaur, around 30 long &
displacing more than 20 tons.

Megalodon

Sea Shaker!; super-sized version

of the Great White Shark, up to
60 long & displacing more than
50 tons.

Mosasaurus

Gigantic predator up to 50 long

& displacing more than 5 tons,
with a crocodile-like head filled
with multiple rows of nasty, sharp
teeth.

Thalassomedon

(Sea Lord) Gar-Gan-Choo-An

Pliosaur, a fearsome predator that
can be >40 long & displace more
than 20 tons.

Prehistoric Monsters
Monsters are fantastic prehistoric creatures that
never were. You must have a Monster Master
(Monster Lord for > Huge monsters) to purchase
monsters. Monsters other than Lesser Trogs &
Trogs can be taken over just like beasts (see p. 11).

Big
Monsters

Notes

Dragonasaurus: Solo; Trogs:

packs of 5; Need Monster
Master to buy/control.

Dragonasaurus,
Baby

A very young Dragonasaurus,

mainly useful for its flamethrower-type ability.

Troglodyte

Like primitive orcs, Trogs are

powerfully built, not very bright,
& very good at combat.

Notes

Really Big
Monsters

Solos; Need Monster Master

to buy/control

Trogre

An Ogre-sized Troglodyte - big,

dumb, & mean!
These

feral,

huge

hairy

Yeti (Cave humanoids

have
worse
personal habits than even the
Troll)
crudest Neanderthals.

Huge
Monster
Small
Monsters
Lesser Trog

Skeleton

Cavemansized
Monsters

Notes
Packs: 5/pack; Need Monster
Master to buy/control
35 tall, 40-80 pounds. Primitive
version of standard fantasy
goblins.
Long dead bones of cavemen;
must have both Shaman &
Monster Master to buy Skeletons.

Notes
Packs: 5/pack; Need Monster
Master to buy/control

Bah Ju

The Bah Ju is a carnivorous plant

that looks like a giant, walking
Venus Flytrap.

Zombie

Recently dead cavemen; must

have both Shaman & Monster
Master to buy Zombies (a Shaman
can also raise them during the
game).

Zombie
Beast

Gigantic
Monster

Notes

Solos; Need Monster Master

to buy/control
Huge undead remains of
mighty dinosaurs & prehistoric
mammals. You must have
both a Shaman & a Monster
Master to buy Zombie Beasts
(a Shaman can also raise them
during the game).

Notes

Solos; Need Monster Lord to

buy/control
A Giant-sized Troglodyte. Just

Giant Trog as mean, just as brutish, but

massive!

Gar-GanChoo-An
Monster
Dragonasaurus,
Adult

Notes

Solos; Need Monster Lord to

buy/control
This horror is the ancient ancestor
of the legendary dragon.
Basically, a Dragonasaurus has
all the power & ferocity of
a dragon, minus the style &
subtlety.

Size Matters! Big Bonuses & Small Penalties

Size Bonus: Positive Size bonus adds to Attack Draws against the creature/unit with the
bonus. It also adds this many points to the units Ouchies.
Size Penalty: Negative Size Penalty subtracts from the units Ouchies, but also subtracts
from Attack Draws to hit the unit.

Size
Small

Caveman
Size

Big

Very
Big

Really
Big

Huge

Bonus/
Penalty

Notes & Creatures

-1

Small creatures from around

30 - 80 pounds. Includes Cave
Dogs, Florz, Small Dino sapiens,
Lesser Trogs, Oviraptors,
Skeletons, Velociraptors.

Gigantic

Roughly caveman-sized
creatures, from around 81 - 200
pounds. Includes Emohs, Bah
Ju, Deinonychus, Dino sapiens,
Neanderthals, Trodons,
Zombies.

Ginormous

+1

A bit larger than most

cavemen, from around 201
- 500 pounds. Includes Baby
Dragonasaurus, Big Dino
sapiens, Big Neanderthals,
Dire Wolves, Pteranodons,
Saber-Tooth Tigers (Smilodons),
Terror Birds, Troglodytes/Trog
heroes.

+3

Much bigger than a caveman,

weighing between 501 1,000 pounds. Includes
Dilophosaurus, Prehistoric Deer,
Quetzalcoatlus due to wing
size.

+5

Big enough to start running out

of superlatives, these creatures
weigh from 1,001 - 4,000
pounds. Includes Aurochs,
Cave Bears, Carnotaurus,
Ceratosaurus, Dakosaurus,
Megalosaurus, Megaraptor,
Trogre, Utahraptors, Yeti.

+7

Includes creatures weighing

4,001 - 10,000 pounds:
Allosaurus, Amargasaurus,
Ankylosaurus, Arsinoitherium,
Baryonyx, Brontotherium,
Doedicurus, Elasmotherium,
Iguanodon, Megatherium,
Parasaurolophus, Stegosaurus,
Styracosaurus, Woolly Rhino,
Zombie Beast.

Size

Bonus/
Penalty

Notes & Creatures

+10

Creatures from 10,001

- 20,000 pounds:
Giganatosaurus, Giant Trog,
Mammoth, Mastodon,
Mosasaurus, Pentaceratops,
Saltasaurus, Therizinosaurus,
Triceratops, T. Rex.

+12

Creatures from 20,001

- 35,000 pounds:
Paraceratherium, Spinosaurus,
Stegodon.

Gar-GanChoo-An

+15

Creatures from 35,001 50,000 pounds: Diplodocus,

Adult Dragonasaurus,
Kronosaurus, Thalassomedon.

Earth/
Sea
Shaker!

+20

Creatures that weigh 50,001+

pounds: Apatosaurus,
Brachiosaurus, Megalodon.

Target Size Summary

Small target: -1 to Attack Draw
Caveman Size target: no bonus/penalty
Big target: +1 to Attack Draw
Very Big target: +3
Really Big target: +5
Huge target: +7
Gigantic target: +10
Ginormous target: +12
Gar-Gan-Choo-An target: +15
Earth/Sea Shaker! target: +20

Good Stuff: Abilities

Good
Stuff

(Users) Ability
Description

Action
Draw 3

(Included for Solos) Your Action

Draw is always 3.

Action
Draw 4

(Included for Solos) Your Action

Draw is always 4.

Balance

(Any unit mounted on beast/

cavepunk/monster) Ignore -1
penalty for shooting mounted.

Beast
Master

(Cavemen & Dino sapiens heroes

only) Allows purchase of beasts
up to Huge size. Your beasts
must stay within 3 Hands of
their designated Beast Master (if
they exceed this distance their
top priority is to use movement
to get within it unless they are
Panicked).

Lord of
Beasts

Bluster

(Cavemen & Dino sapiens

heroes only) Allows purchase
of all beasts. Your beasts must
stay within 4 Hands of their
designated Beast Lord.
(Any unit; Small units dont get
+1 to Draws) Use your action to
bluster, threaten, & intimidate
a target unit of grunts within 2
Hands. Make an Opposed Action
Draw; you get +1. If target units
Draw is lower than yours, they
must make a Panic Draw.

Full of
It

(Same as Bluster) You can take

Full of It to get +2 to your Draw.

Breathe
Fire

(Dragonasaurus) Handler can

make opposed Action Draw (+1
if handler is a Beast Master/+2
if Beast Lord) if win, place
cone template as desired; if
tie, nothing; if fail, breathes on
handler.

Carpe
Drawum

(Heroes) +1 Shiny stone for your

stash at the beginning of the
game.

Cause
Panic

(Appropriate units) Your appearance alone is so horrifying

or intimidating that it causes
enemy units within 1 Hand to
make a Panic Draw. Once a unit
has succeeded in a Panic Draw
against a unit, it doesnt have to
check against that unit again.

Damage
Draw 2

(Appropriate creatures)
Base Damage Draw of 2.

Damage
Draw 3

(Appropriate creatures)
Base Damage Draw of 3.

Damage
Draw 4

(Appropriate creatures)
Base Damage Draw of 4.

Fast

(Appropriate
Dino
sapiens,
beasts, & monsters) Move 1
Hand + 1 Finger; Run 3 Hands.

Fearless

(Appropriate monsters & beasts)

No Panic checks.
(Appropriate monsters & beasts)

Fearsome Foes within 1 Hand must make a

Panic Draw.

Flight

(Appropriate
winged,
etc.
creatures) Can Fly. Must stay
within normal vertical distance
of Beast Master; max height 4
Hands. Can climb 2 Hands, dive
up to 3, move 4 horizontal.

Good
Aim

(Florz, Emoh heroes) +1 to

Ranged Attack Draws.

Great
Aim

(Florz heroes) +2 to Ranged

Attack Draws.

More Good Stuff: Abilities

Good Stuff

(Users) Ability
Description

Monster
Master

(Trogs/Lesser
Trogs
only)
Allows you to buy monsters
up to Huge size. Your monsters
must stay within 3 Hands
of their designated Monster
Master (if they exceed this
distance their top priority is to
use movement to get within it
unless they are Panicked).

Spells

(Shamans) See p. 24.

Stomp

(Appropriate Ginormous+
creatures) If you dont
move, as your action you
can stomp on an adjacent
round template-sized area;
make an Attack Draw vs.
all figures touched by the
template (Damage Draw
3 if hit).

Tail Sweep

Put the base of your index

finger at the base of the
creatures tail. Move it 90o
to each side (180o total).
Make an Attack Draw vs.
all figures touched.

Monster
Lord

(Trogs only) Allows purchase of ALL monsters. Your

monsters must stay within
4 Hands of their Monster
Lord.

Moxie

Extra resolve & spirit. +1

to Panic Draws & opposed
Bluster Draws.

Tough Skin

-1 to Damage Draws against

you. Appropriate beasts/
monsters only.

Lotsa
Moxie

You can take Lotsa Moxie

to get +2 to your Draw.

Really
Tough Skin

-2 to Damage Draws vs.

you. Huge+ beasts &
monsters only.

N.E.R.D.

Allows purchase of Cavepunk; +1 to Draws using

cavepunk ranged weapons.
Your
hero
may
not
take Beast Master/Lord,
Shaman, or Warrior if they
take N.E.R.D.

Trample

One With
Nature

(Appropriate units) No
movement penalty in flora
(woods, jungle, etc.).

Shaman

(Heroes) Allows a hero to

be a Shaman & purchase/
use spells.

(Really Big +) Allows you

to take your normal move/
run (but the entire move
must be in a straight line)
through enemy units with a
Size bonus at least 5 points
less than your Size bonus.
Make a Melee Attack Draw
on any figure you touch.
They dont get a free attack
on you for moving out of
combat theyre too busy
trying to get out of the
way!

Warrior

(Grunts, heroes & appropriate monsters only) +1 to

Melee Attack Draws.

Great
Warrior

+2 to Melee Attack Draws.

Heroes only.

Size

See Size Matters! Section.

Solo

(Heroes,
crew,
riders,
monsters, beasts) Allows
you to operate as an
independent figure.

Melee & Ranged Weapons

Damage
Draw

Notes/Range

Range
(Short/
Long)

Hand Axe

1-handed; axe, usually sharpened stone tied to a

handle. Range: melee combat only.

Melee only

Big Axe

2-handed version; Range: melee combat only.

Melee only

Bare Hands

Range: melee combat only (duh!).

Melee only

Big Rock

2-handed; -1 to your Attack Draw. If spend 1 action

searching, draw 3 stones you find this many Big
Rocks. Range: Melee or 1 Finger/No long range.

1 Finger/
No long
range

Bow

Bows are usually made of wood, but can sometimes

be crafted from other materials. 2-handed. Shoot
arrows (unlimited number) 2 Hands/4 Hands.

2 Hands/
4 Hands

Club

1-handed club; Range: melee combat only.

Melee only

Big Club

2-handed club; Range: melee combat only.

Melee only

Dagger/Knife

1-handed; Range: melee combat or throw 1 Finger/1

Hand (have unlimited number).

1 Finger/
1 Hand

Improvised
Weapon

-1 to your Attack Draw; can throw 1 Finger or use

in melee combat.

1 Finger/
No long
range

Pole Arm

Can reach targets 1 Knuckle away; 2-handed; melee

combat only. Need a N.E.R.D. to purchase.

Melee only

Sling

Unlimited rocks.

1 Hand/
3 Hands

Small Rock

Can use in melee combat or throw 1 Finger/1 Hand.

If spend 1 action searching, you find enough Small
Rocks to use for the rest of the game.

1 Finger/
1 Hand

Spear

1 Knuckle reach in melee combat; can throw (have

unlimited number); *add Spear Thrower (Atlatl)
for 1 point to make range 2 Hands/4 Hands.

1 Hand+1
Finger/
3 Hands*

Weapon
Type

Armor
Here are the types of armor that are available for
purchase if they are allowed for your unit type.
You need a N.E.R.D. in your warband to purchase
Helmets or dinosaur plate armor.

Armor
Type

Damage
Draw
Subtraction

Notes

-1

Cant
combine
with
dinosaur
plate

Hide Armor

Helmet

Take normal
Damage
Draw, but
negates
Glory Rocks
damage if it is
drawn

Must have
N.E.R.D. to
purchase

--

-1 To Attack
Draws
vs. you

-2

Must have
N.E.R.D. to
purchase

Shield

Dinosaur
Plate

Other Gear
Standards
Standards give +1 to all
Panic checks for the unit.

Torches
(Solo crew & heroes; 1 torch costs 1
Point) A figure can light a torch as a
free action. You can brandish a torch
at a beast or monster unit as your
action. Make an opposed Action
Draw - you get +1, but the target
unit adds its Size bonus to its Draw.
If you win, the unit wont come
within 1 Finger of you this turn.

Water Craft & Swimming

You can use both aquatic creatures & water
craft on the battlefield if there is a sufficient
body of water. Unless you decide differently,
seas & lakes will be calm enough that they
will not interfere with travel. Rivers travel
in a predetermined direction (you can draw
before the game if you want), 1 Hand per turn.
If you paddle or pole with the current, add 1
Hand to your movement. If you paddle/pole
vs. the current, you move 1 Finger forward.
Coracle: May hold 1-2 man-sized creatures.
Coracles are big targets (+1 to hit), They can
take 2 Ouchies before they go Bye-Bye (Cost:
2 per 1 section)
Raft: May hold up to 4 Human-sized
creatures. (Cost: 2 per 1 square section)
Note on Swimming: Assume that cavemen
in water craft can swim 1 Hand. Aquatic
creatures can swim 1 Hand and power swim
2 Hands; some are Fast, & go even farther.

Cavepunk Inventions
If you have a N.E.R.D., you can purchase these cavepunk items for your warband (but dont include
items that dont fit your view of prehistoric fantasy). The N.E.R.D. himself doesnt have to use the item
- other heroes or crew can use them as well.

Item

Notes

Banana
Bomber

A crude catapult or even a big,

blown up bladder is used to
propel a pile of banana peels
over a relatively great distance.
Range: 1 Hand/2 Hands. Use
Deviation rules; place a banana
peel template on the landing
point; it stays here for the rest
of the game. Any unit with 1+
members touching a banana
peel template must make an
Action Draw or the whole unit
loses the rest of their action
this turn. A Banana Bomber
is automatically destroyed if
attacked.

Big Bow

Big
Slingshot

Range: 3 Hands / 5 Hands;

Damage Draw 3 vs. 1 target
figure; misses miss completely.
The Big Bow consists of a large
branch with stretchy material
(animal tissue or a vine) tied to
the ends. The center of the ranch
is mounted on a crosspiece. Big
Bows fire extra-large arrows
(roughly the size of spears) with
surprising accuracy. Adds +1 to
Missile Attack Draws. Auto
destroyed if attacked.
The Big Slingshot is usually a
large forked tree branch with
stretchy material (animal tissue
or vine) tied to it, & often
includes a fur pouch to nestle
the rock or Gourd Bomb.
Fires big rocks or Gourd
Bombs; Range: 2 Hands/4
Hands. Rock Damage Draw
4 vs. 1 target figure; missed
rocks
miss
completely;
Gourd Bombs deviate. Auto
destroyed if attacked.

Chariot

Also need a Beast Master/Lord

to buy & 2 Big beasts or 1 Very
Big+ beast to pull the chariot.
Can hold 2 caveman-sized
creatures (purchased separately
can be heroes or crew).
Chariot Stats: Takes 5 Ouchies.
Big target: +1 to hit it. +1 armor:
-1 to Damage Draws against the
chariot. Chariots can add Spiky
Weelz that add +1 to Damage
Draws done by the chariot in
melee combat (cost +1 point).

Dinosaur
Plate
Armor

Flamethrowa

Gourd
Bombs

While it is described under

Armor, you must have a
N.E.R.D. in your warband to
purchase dinosaur plate armor.
Consists of a fire source, an
inflated bladder, & a carrier
(usually crude petroleum).
The device sprays the carrier
through the fire source, which
then ignites & creates a gout of
flame. Every figure touching
the cone template takes a
Damage Draw of 3.
Hollow gourds filled with
explosive powder & thrown
(or fired) at the enemy. Pick a
target figure that you can see
& is in range. Draw to hit, +/bonuses/penalties. If you hit,
place the round template on
your target; any figure touched
takes a Damage Draw of 3. If
you miss, use Uh-Oh (deviation)
rules.
If you draw all Plain stones for
your Attack Draw, the Bomb
explodes in your hands (put
template on thrower/firer).

Magic

Cavepunk Inventions, continued

Item
Howdah

Pole Arms

Notes
Also need a Beast Master/Lord
to buy an appropriate Huge
or bigger beast; the beast must
walk on all four legs. Howdahs
give Heavy Cover (-2 to
Attack Draws to hit anyone in
the howdah). Howdahs can
generally fit 4 caveman-sized
creatures, but are sometimes
larger or smaller.
While they are described under
Weapons, you must have a
N.E.R.D. in your warband to
purchase pole arms.

Bad Stuff

Bad Stuff consists of undesirable characteristics

that can interfere with certain actions. The good
news is that Bad Stuff subtracts from the cost of
the unit. Here are some examples of Bad Stuff;
feel free to add more Bad Stuff if youd like. Note
that Bad Stuff penalties may not reduce a units
cost below 1 point.

Bad Stuff

Eligible Users & Effects

Bound

(All beasts & monsters except

Trogs & Lesser Trogs) Must stay
within 3 Hands of a Beast/
Monster Master or 4 Hands of a
Beast/Monster Lord.

Chicken

(Appropriate heroes or grunts) -1

to all Panic & Chill Draws.

HalfHearted
Ally

(Appropriate units, usually of a

different species from the main
force) Once the unit reaches 50%
casualties, if it fails a Panic check
it leaves the battle permanently.

Stupid

(Appropriate units) -1 to your

Initiative Draw at the start of
each turn for EACH unit with this
issue; -1 to Draws to Interrupt.

Size (-1)

(Small units) -1 to enemys Attack

Draws vs. you, -1 to your Ouchies

Slow

(Slow beasts & monsters) Walk 1

Hand, may not run.

Shamans
Characters with the ability to use magic must have
the Shaman ability, & can purchase & use spells.
Using spells: Using a spell counts as a regular
action (e.g., you can walk up to 1 Hand & use a
spell in the same action).
To invoke a spell, make an Action Draw; your
Shaman must draw the spells target number or
higher to successfully use it. Some spells give extra
benefits for critical successes (drawing 2 or more
over the target number).
If the draw is failed the spell fails & the unit has
still used its action.

Spell Descriptions
Target Number (TN): The number the unit
needs to draw for the spell to succeed.
Critical Success (CS): The number the unit
needs to get a critical success (the effect is noted
in the spell descriptions if the spell has a critical
success option).
Range: The maximum distance the target of
the spell can be from the caster. For round
area effect spells, measure from the edge of the
caster to the center of the template. If a spell
lists 2 ranges, such as 1 Hand/2 Hands, these
are short & long range; subtract 2 from the
Action Draw for long range.
Unless a spell says otherwise, it always requires
line of sight to target a unit.
Ending a spell: A Shaman can end a spell they
previously invoked at any time.

Spells
BLESSING
TN: 2 (CS: 4); Range: 1 Hand/2 Hands;
Duration: Draw 3 = # turns
This spell allows you to increase 1 units Action
Draw by 1 (2 with a critical success). Track the
duration. Cant stack on a single unit.

CURE
TN: 2 (CS: 4); Range: Touch
Cure gives back 1 Ouchie to an adjacent figure
with an Action Draw of 2, & 2 Ouchies with
a Draw of 4. You can heal figures who have
taken 1 or more Ouchies & would otherwise
be eliminated if you Cure them during the
same turn.

FEARSOME RANT
TN: 2 (CS: 4); Range: Cone Template
Your Shaman rants like a madman; if your
Action Draw succeeds, every unit with a figure
touching the template must make a Panic Draw
(at -1 with a critical success). Failure means the
unit Panics immediately.

FIRE BAD!
TN: 3 (CS: 5); Range: Cone template
Place the cone template point next to the
shaman & point the big end in any direction.
Any figures touched by the template take a
Damage Draw of 2. A critical success means
the Damage Draw = 3.

FOG
TN: 2 (CS: 4); Range: 3 Hands; Duration:
Draw 3 = # turns; Permanent with CS
Creates an area of fog the size of 2 adjacent
round templates. Characters cant see through
the fog. You can walk into fog, but cant run.
Figures more than 1 Knuckle within the fog or
behind it cant be targeted or fire through the
fog (they can melee normally). Figures within
1 Knuckle of the edge of the fog can see & fire
out of it; they can also be fired upon (-1 to
Attack Draws against you).

MANTLE
TN: 2 (CS: 4); Range: Touch; Duration:
Draw 3 = # turns
Mantle creates a glowing, spiritual mantle
of protection around 1 Big or smaller figure.
Subtract 1 stone each time the wearer takes
a Damage Draw; a critical success subtracts 2
stones each time damage is taken.

REAPER
TN: See below; Range: 2 Hands (must be
corpses in range); Duration: rest of game
Reaper causes the dead to reanimate under
your control. Assuming figures have Gone
Bye-Bye within 2 Hands, make an Action
Draw. If you succeed, you raise the number
of zombies drawn (subject to the number of
corpses available). For example, if you draw
4, you raise 4 zombies.
Critical success: If a dead Huge+ beast/
monster is within range & you get a Draw of
4+, you can choose to raise 1 Zombie Beast
instead of 4+ zombies.

WRATH
TN: 2 (CS: 4); Range: 2 Hands/4 Hands
The invoker calls down a lightning strike the
size of a round template.
Success causes a Damage Draw of 2 to any
figure touching the template; a critical success
causes a Damage Draw of 3.

Costs

Costs, Continued

Battles Before Time gives you straightforward rules

for fantastic prehistoric skirmishes using a variety
of cavemen, dinosaur men, prehistoric mammals,
prehistoric monsters, and, of course, dinosaurs. A
simple system of drawing stones from a pool
to determine actions helps keep the game exciting
and quick to learn and play.
So stop shaving,
Put on your favorite loincloth,
And prepare for battle!

This is Part One of a two-part set. This part contains the

rules; Part Two contains warband lists & unit cards.

2016 Jade Tower Studio

www.jadetowerstudio.com