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October 2016
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Cover photo provided by Belcorp
Cover Story Contents

October 2016 | Volume 131, number 8
6 Editors Note
8 Advisor Insight
10 Special Report: Ones to Watch
70 Endpoint: Big Data with a

Grain of Salt
10
by R.L. Grabenhofer
72 Ad Index
Market Intelligence
16 Technology Launches
Regulatory
18 Head and Shoulders Above
the Rest
Emerging Trends and Regulatory Hurdles in
Bath and Body
by K. Yarussi-King, Ph.D.
22 Testing
22 Quantifying Wellness
36
Anti-aging Benefits Beyond
Wrinkle Reduction
by P. Bedos, Ph.D., et al.
36 The Dirty Truth About Pollution-

induced Skin Aging
The AhR Pathway Tells All
by I. Meyer, W. Johncock, Ph.D., S Grether-Beck, Ph.D.
and J. Krutmann, Ph.D.
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016
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EDITORIAL
Editors note | C&T
Contents Director Jo-El M. Grossman
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer 1-630-344-6072/[email protected]
Associate Editor Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/[email protected]
Assistant Editor Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/[email protected]
ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager/
C&T Summit Exhibits
& Sponsorships Tom Harris | 1-201-445-4702/[email protected]
Business Development Manager
Fragrance Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/[email protected]
Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/[email protected]
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Director Linda Schmitt
Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan
Marketing Assistant Alyssa Howard
Customer Service 1-888-355-5962/[email protected]
DESIGN
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
54
EVENTS
Group Show Director Sandy Chapin
Show Manager Mary Richter 1-630-344-6023/[email protected]
CORPORATE
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
50 Sponsored: Fast Analysis of Partner & CEO George Fox
Cosmetic Allergens by Waters Controller Linda Getner
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
Formulating OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

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Editors Note | C&T
POSITIVE VIBES
Intuition, vibe, instinct, gut feelingany of these describes that sixth sense or underlying feeling we
sometimes get. Most of us have experienced it, good or bad. Science has tried to measure it, although often
unsuccessfully.1 What does this have to do with cosmetics? Well, everything.
As Bedos et al. explain in Quantifying Wellness, on Page 22, The hedonic aspects and pleasure of using
cosmetics, i.e., the well-being and psychological improvements gained, are the true consumer drivers. But in
order for product developers to create that sense of pleasure in products, they must first understand it.
Manufacturers are wise to this. One recent example is Kaos big investment2 to study kansei science, which
according to the company will create value in the realm of beauty that is not only grounded in deep scientific
expertise, but also captivate on an emotional and sensory level. This is also a premise of the Bedos article.
Anti-pollution is another concept that emanates its own positivity, especially in terms of health and
wellness. And with it trending toward the top of the latest technology launches, wed be remiss to dismiss it.
Read about a method to measure and technology to impart anti-pollution benefits by Meyer et al. on Page 36.
Beyond our beloved technical content, C&T is spreading the warm fuzzies this month with a special
feature recognizing some of the industrys brightest young scientists, beginning on Page 10. Meet this years
Henry Maso Award recipient John Jimnez, of Belcorp, in addition to 11 other up-and-comers. Excerpts
from their interviews are featured here; the complete interviews can be found at CosmeticsandToiletries.com/
networking/news/people and in our newsletters.
Lastly, hopefully by now youve noticed: Weve made some changes here at C&T. As we
mentioned last month, the magazine itself has a vibrant new look. We also decided our contents
too good not to share, so we went open access. Create a login for our website and youll get all the
good stuff. Finally, we have a new managing editor: Me. Its been a year or two, but Im back at
the helm for C&T. I promise to take us into the future with thought leadership, innovation and a
smile. Send me your positive vibes!
1. http://pss.sagepub.com/content/27/5/622.short
2. www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/news/company/New-kao-research- Rachel L. Grabenhofer
innovation-center-to-study-kansei-science-392937031.html
C&T Managing Editor
CT1610_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 9/21/16 4:33 PM

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Scientific Advisory Advisor Insight | C&T
Board
Art, Science and Skin Chefs

for Cosmetics
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

Dermatology
Consulting Services In this commentary, guest advisor John Jimnez shares
thoughts on the personal care industrys past and future.
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
C&T: What do you enjoy most about this industry?

Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.

TA Evans LLC Jimnez: Cosmetics are the perfect balance between
S. Peter Foltis
art and science, and I highly enjoy and appreciate that. I find
LOral inspiration for my work by mixing consumer trends, state-of-
the-art technologies, consumer insights and fashion to develop
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D. new product formulas. For me, its not only chemistry; it is
Atlantic Coast Media Group
the mixture between chemistry and art, blending together to
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D. create complex and challenging textures. I also enjoy learning
Shiseido Research Center first-hand from suppliers innovations and colleagues.
Karl Laden, Ph.D.

Alpa Cosmetics
C&T: What do you find most frustrating?
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. Jimnez: There is a lack of time for implementing so
Johnson & Johnson many ideas and projects. Also, in my opinion, the absence of
standardized regulations is a critical issue. In many cases, this
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble becomes a great barrier to the industry, as relevant academic
findings could be restricted from expanding to a global scale
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D. because regulatory procedures are toocomplex.
Coty-Lancaster
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

C&T: What do you see on the horizon for the industry?
Jimnez: Neuromarketing techniques applied to
Industrial Consulting Research
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D. cosmetics has definitely become my professional priority in

LVMH Recherche
the short term. And since neuromarketing is a new discipline,
Ron Sharpe there is much to be done.
Amway Natural actives derived from Colombian and Latin-Amer-
ican rainforests, and biodiversity will be areas of interest, as
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
there are many materials waiting to be discovered.
Consultant
Skin care chefs will also become a profession of the
David C. Steinberg future. Even today, you can go to a restaurant and
Steinberg & Associates order anti-protease soup, a detox salad, an anti-
hyaluronase protein and a full variety of desserts
Peter Tsolis
that boost collagen. This will lead to delicious Guest Advisor:
The Este Lauder Companies
ways of approaching facial anti-aging. John Jimnez
Russel Walters, Ph.D. Another example is water as a new Senior Exploration Scientist,
Johnson & Johnson luxury, which will increase demand for Belcorp
water-saving beauty solutions like wipes,
Claudie Willemin
LOral dry shampoos, non-rinse body washes, dry
soap and dry bath and shower products.
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D. There is so much potential for cosmetics of the
Unilever
future, and for young researchers and professionals. Those
who are taking early steps in this field will be influenced and
inspired from many different sources, as new research opens a
world full of experiences and possibilities.
Want More?
For more insight from John Jimnez,
log onto www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
CT1610_Advisor_Insight_fcx.indd 8 9/20/16 1:39 PM

WHERE
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COMES
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+1 973 748 8980 | WWW.BERJEINC.COM

Special Report | C&T
Ones
to Watch
Up-and-comers in Our Industry
B eing at the bench can sometimes feel thankless,

tweaking and testing until the final formula or ingredi-
ent is tediously within specs. Its the same with most
industries: You start at the bottom, assigned menial
tasks no one else wants. For most formulators, its not
likely the next overnight market sensation to which
youre assigned. But before long, you get enough grit and skill behind you that
people start taking notice. Its at this cusp where this special C&T report, Ones
to Watch, fits. The idea emerged from a conversation with industry colleague
Reproduction in English or any other language of

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016
2016 Allured Business Media.
CT1610_Mrkt_Ones_to_Watch_fcx.indd 10 9/21/16 4:06 PM

John Jimnez, of Belcorp, who is receiving the Henry Maso Award for Young Cosmetic
Scientists at the 2016 IFSCC Congress in Orlando.
My discussion with him brought to light the fact that not only the IFSCC, but also C&T
should recognize up-and-coming formulators, cosmetic chemists, researchers, students and
others in allied fields who have limited experience in the industry, but unlimited potential.
These innovators will help shape our industrys future, so its like being given a crystal ball.
The individuals highlighted herestarting, of course, with Jimnezwere nominated
by mentors and seasoned experts in the industry. Their complete interviews will be featured
online at CosmeticsandToiletries.com/networking/news/people and in our newsletters.
Formore information and to nominate, email me at [email protected].
~Rachel Grabenhofer, Managing Editor
John Jimnez
Senior Exploration Scientist, Belcorp
Recipient of the Henry Maso Award for Young Cosmetic Scientists
C&T: Describe the work for which you are receiving the Henry Maso Award.
JJ: Our team of researchers used eye-tracking as a complementary tool to assess
a fragrances olfactory profile. Eye-tracking allows companies to make better deci-
sions regarding their marketing message or design, and helps them to determine
whether their messages call the consumers attention and make a statement.
In the award-winning paper, we used this tool to evaluate how eye movements
could be affected by the influence of olfactory notes on panelists who were exposed
to several aromas. We found responses to given stimuli changed according to the
coherence between the olfactory profile and its given name. These findings open
the door to new R&D models, linking fragrance + name + image. This was the first
time olfactory assessment was included in this way using this technique.
Lvia Salomo Calixto

Masters Student, University of So Paulo
Lvia Salomo Calixto is currently pursuing a masters degree in pharmaceutics
and cosmetics.
C&T: What do you like most about your work? What do you like least?
LSC: In my work, I very much like that cosmetics and personal care have an
impact on peoples lives. From the moment they wake up until they go to bed, most
everyone makes use of cosmetics or personal care. Cosmetics research significantly
improves the well-being and quality of peoples lives.
What I like least is how some people dont think that cosmetics science is an
important and serious branch of science. Fortunately, this is changing considering
that Brazil, through the University of So Paulo, was recognized as outstanding
in cosmetic scientific and technological production by the State of Innovation,
reported by Thomson Reuters.
Want the full interviews?

To view the full-length interviews, log on to
CosmeticsandToiletries.com/networking/news/people
Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11

Mei Xin Chen
Formulation Scientist, INOLEX
Mei Xin Chen is a formulation scientist in the application lab at INOLEX, a
cosmetics and personal care ingredient manufacturer based in Philadelphia.
C&T: Give an example of a problem you solved that has application in the
cosmetics industry.
MXC: More and more consumers are concerned about ingredients and their
effects on the environment and human body. As a result, we have seen an increase
in requests for green and natural ingredients/products. I am glad to have worked
with these green and natural ingredients at INOLEX. Recently, I was involved in a
launch of a complete line of palm-free ingredients. During that process, I devel-
oped formulations to showcase this new series. After trials, our team proudly
optimized a variety of palm-free formulations, providing a different skin feel and
texture, and in the process, developed useful guidelines for formulators.
Carmen Cheung
Personal Care Formulation Chemist, Lonza
Carmen Cheung is currently a personal care formulation chemist for
Lonza. She has been working in the cosmetic industry since she graduated
in 2013 with a bachelors degree in cosmetic science.
C&T: What observation do you think has application in cosmetics?
CC: I dont believe enough cosmetic companies are using experimental
design software. This could potentially save companies a lot of time and
money to find solutions to problems, whilst optimizing formulations.
C&T: How do you envision the cosmetics/personal care industry of the
future?
CC: The industry needs to continue to find ways to source raw materi-
als responsibly and reduce environmental impact. At the same time, social
media will increasingly dictate industrial trends and demands.
Elisabeth Dufton
Ph.D. Student at the University of Leeds
Elisabeth Dufton joined the Cosmetic Science program at the London
College of Fashion in 2006. In 2008-09, she took an industrial placement
opportunity at Henkel GmbH and in 2010, moved to the University of Leeds,
focused on natural product formulation. She then became a formulation
scientist for UoL spin-off company Keracol Ltd.
C&T: What areas or technologies do you think are untapped for cosmet-
ics R&D?
ED: Along the lines of personalized skin care, which is becoming an
increasing presence in R&D, I would like to see cosmetics tap more into
genetic profiling to develop skin care formulations that can actually compen-
sate for genetic disadvantages in skin disease or skin aging. This, I feel, would
give increased understanding and definition to skin types.

Mia Hartmann
R&D Chemist, YG Laboratories
Mia Hartmann is a skin care developer at YG Laboratories and formulates
high-performance products.
MH: The most exciting aspect is the push for new and innovative tech-
nologies. The market is vast and encourages us to push the envelope, forcing
our industry to constantly evolve. A phrase I often hear when describing up-
and-coming personal care products/ingredients is, this isnt your grandmas
skin care. Generation-to-generation technologies have advanced greatly
over the last few decades. Market trends from various countries are being
adopted globally, providing end users diversity in their products inspired by
many cultural trends. Its really a world market in this generation.
Kristin Katakami
Cosmetic Chemist, EC Labs
Kristin Katakami started in beauty as a salon technician at EvelineCharles
Salon and Spas in Canada. Whilst there, she earned her bachelors degree
in chemistry and, after some world travel and industry experience, Eve-
lineCharles Salon and Spas brought her career full circle.
KK: I love seeing a product from concept through to delivery, working
with brands to develop and launch a product into the market; to see that
success when I walk into a shop where a formulation I developed is on the
shelves or read comments from celebrities talking about products I have
worked on. The hardest part is the regulations on cosmetics, and consumers
or brands perceptions of what is not good for you. This can really limit the
development of high performance products.
Harshita Kumari, Ph.D.

Assistant Professor, University of Cincinnati
Harshita Kumari holds a doctorate from the University of Missouri
at Columbia, USA, and in 2015, and after broad educational experience
(detailed online), she joined the University of Cincinnati James L. Winkle
College of Pharmacy.
C&T: Give an example of a problem that, if resolved, holds great potential
for the industry.
HK: A major problem is deciphering the unknown mechanisms of action
of skin, hair and oral care actives. Formulation science primarily involves
adjusting formulations for desired properties, whereas quality assurance
focuses on quantifying the delivery of actives and developing claim support
data. Knowing the mechanisms of action and controlling their parameters
could provide tools to design novel formulations with specified action.

Hillary A. Phillis
Marketing Manager, Active Concepts
Hillary Phillis is a recent graduate of the University of Toledo and recently
was promoted to marketing manager at Active Concepts.
C&T: Give an example of an observation that you think has application in
the cosmetics industry.
HP: A role I play in my current position is observing and identifying
voids in the market to conceptualize new exciting products and collaborate
with R&D to develop a leading edge material. Shortly after I started at Active
Concepts, I was able to witness this process first-hand with the creation of
Active.Lite Hair. Witnessing a product from conceptualization to a completed
efficacious product is the best way I could have learned [about this process].
Tamare Sweeting
Student, University of Toledo
Tamare Sweeting graduated from the University of Toledo in 2015. As an
undergraduate, she interned for ACT Solutions Corp., where she was assigned
projects including formulating a moisturizer for women of color.
C&T: What areas do you think are untapped for cosmetics R&D?
TS: Preservatives have gotten a bad reputation. With increasing demand
for natural ingredients, I feel it is in the best interest of the industry to invest
more time in natural alternatives. However, preservatives that are naturally
derived, such as from plants, are not suitable for formulation. They may pos-
sess preservative properties, but also may have properties that prove dangerous
to the consumer. By conducting more research on the components of these
plant-derived preservatives, it may be possible to synthetically create similar
products or at least isolate and remove the dangerous components.
Petya Ruda (Todorova)

Development Chemist, LF Beauty
Petya Ruda earned her bachelor of science degree in cosmetic science with
honors from the London College of Fashion. She is currently working as a
development chemist in new product development at LF Beauty.
C&T: How do you envision the cosmetics/personal care industry of
thefuture?
PR: The industry is already becoming more and more technology driven
there are apps and devices allowing you to monitor your skin care needs and
customize them. I think this digital transformation of the beauty sector will
continue to increase, as well as the consumer awareness of the importance of
caring for our bodies.

Alison Wery
Formulator, ACT Solutions Corp.
Alison Wery earned her bachelor's degree in pharmacy and pharma-
ceutical science from the University of Toledo. She currently works as a
formulator and in other capacities at ACT Solutions Corp.
C&T: What about the cosmetics and personal care industry excites you?
AW: The growth in technology and consumer base is what really excites
me about the cosmetics and personal care industry. Social media has become
such a huge part of the industry, even just with YouTube. Companies are
growing, more brands are being introduced into the market, and the quality
of the products due to this growth and advances in technology astound me
every day. Eventually, I would like to expand upon the quality of products
through advanced technologies and science for transdermal delivery.


Technology Launches
Anti-pollution Active Natural Salicylic Acid
Alban Muller has introduced Amiperfect ER (INCI: Gaultheria

With the various approaches to provide anti-pollution benefits, Procumbens (Wintergreen) Leaf Extract) for anti-wrinkle,
German ingredient maker bitop AG targets particles, heavy metals brightening, purifying and regenerating purposes. The
and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) with its 28Extremoin ECOCERT- and COSMOS-approved ingredient is an alternative
(INCI: Ectoin (and) Hydroxyectoin) ingredient. According to the to synthetic salicylic acid and is the first 100% natural pure
company, this powerful anti-pollution active is based on a so-called salicylic acid molecule. As a natural molecule with cosmetic
extremolyte molecule that protects skin from stress, wrinkle formation, properties, the ingredient helps promote the elimination of dead
hyperpigmentation and dark spot formation. cells and smoothes imperfections and wrinkles.
www.bitop.de www.albanmuller.com
Blue Light Pollution Skin Volumizer
Photo Credit: Ashland Specialty Ingredients Photo Credit: Cosphatec LLC
Ashland Specialty Ingredients has launched Blumilight Skin sagging has been the focus of many recent skin product
(INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) launches, especially as technologies improve the benefits
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract). According to the they can provide. With this result in mind, Cosphatec LLC
company, this biofunctional ingredient addresses the skin- developed its Neosome EM Ultrafill skin care active (INCI:
damaging effects of blue light pollution emanating from cell Water (aqua) (and) Phospholipids (and) Trehalose (and)
phones, computer screens and natural sources. Betaine (and) Xanthan Gum).
www.ashland.com www.cosphatech.com
CT1610_Tech_Launches_irv.indd 16 9/20/16 2:16 PM

Regulatory | C&T
KEY POINTS
Bath and body is a unique category because
with lower price points, its innovation is
limited. Add to this ongoing regulations,
and differentiating products becomes a
realchallenge.
Key words: bath, body, care, trend, anti-aging

OTC, free-of claims
Head and Shoulders

Above the Rest
Emerging Trends and Regulatory Hurdles in
Bath and Body
Karen Yarussi-King
Global Regulatory Associates
Raleigh-Durham, NC, U.S.
O ver the last few years, our industry has

become more responsive to the impact
of dynamic social and economic trends,
in part because more nimble brands
are finding success. Busy lifestyles, less
disposable income and more product
options are driving consumers to be savvier with their purchases.
Consumers want to see benefits faster, in fewer steps and more person-
alized to their needs. As a result, three areas are driving growth in our
industrypurchasing options, delivery systems and formula benefits.

CT1609_Regulatory_Yarussi_fcx.indd 18 9/22/16 2:39 PM

While bath and body products can
be purchased directly from the brand
over the Internet, we are not seeing
the same level of innovation.
The trend for more natural beauty and natural Innovation and Differentiation
products are also helping to drive growth. While bath and body products can be purchased
Traditionally, consumers have been willing to over the Internet, directly from the brand or via
pay more for facial skin care products, particularly mobile apps, we are not seeing the same level of
products that provide multiple benefits. Women innovation in delivery systems and formula benefits.
want anti-aging benefits that either prevent or Even within these purchasing options, websites
reverse the visible signs of aging quickly. As a result, do not always provide bath and body care by need
skin care claims have become more scientific, or benefit, with the exception of cellulite/stretch
justifying higher price points but also requiring marks. Instead, bath and body care is typically
more substantiation. offered for sale by product type.
Most recently, hair care seems to be entering Most bath and body products are still being
this space. Womens attitudes about their hair sold in jars, tubes and bottles as creams or lotions,
are changing. Frizzy, over-processed or thinning balms, bars and oils. Benefits such as in-shower
hair can also make a woman look older. Hair care moisturization, exfoliation, self-tanning, 24-hr
product introductions and claims are addressing to 48-hr moisturization, firming and cellulite
these concerns. reduction are still the primary body claims for
The non-OTC bath and body sector seems to be most products, regardless of price point. With
lagging behind. This begs a few questions. First, is the exception of moisturization, claims support
the average consumer more concerned about their is largely based on the use of specific ingredients
body above the shoulders as it relates to groom- in the formula such as natural butters and oils. As
ing? Second, does the average consumer sacrifice a result, regulatory agencies have largely ignored
their spending on body products so they can spend bath and body claims with the exception of cellulite
more on skin and hair care? Third, is the consumer reduction and stretch marks. Despite this category
unwilling to spend more on bath and body because flying under the radar, we are not seeing any real
of a perception that there is little difference between differentiation in productclaims.
products, despite the price point? Lastly, is industry
unwilling to spend the money on innovation for a Truth in Claims
category that has lower price points or perceived Many brands have looked to free-of claims for
minimal differentiation between price points? differentiation, but even this is no longer unique and
now is in jeopardy. The EU is expected to pass a final
version of the Guidelines to Commission Regulation,
(EU) No. 655/2013, the common criteria for the
justification of claims. This regulation lays out the
rules for claims under six criteria: legal compliance,
During the next 10 years, some of the fastest-
truthfulness, evidential support, honesty, fairness and
growing markets for bath and body care will
informed decision-making.
be in the frontier markets of Africa and the According to the legal compliance criteria of the
Middle East. regulation, claims that convey the idea that a prod-
uct has a specific benefit when the benefit is mere
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry compliance with the minimum legal requirements
(www.GCImagazine.com) will not be permitted. Included in this category will
be claims such as hydroquinone-free and not tested
onanimals.
CT1609_Regulatory_Yarussi_irv.indd 20 9/20/16 2:29 PM

The truthfulness and evidential support criteria cally used in a specific formula type, such as a body
may have the biggest impact to the bath and body oil, then the claim sulfate-free would be considered to
category. Under truthfulness, (i)ngredient claims fail the truthfulness criterion because it is irrelevant.
referring to the properties of a specific ingredient Once Guidelines to Commission Regulation
shall not imply that the finished product has the 655/2013 is finalized and enforced, several free-of
same properties when it does not. The example claims will likely need to be removed from packag-
provided by the regulation is one that is most ing and product marketing. This could put many
often used in this category, (t)he claim contains brandsparticularly smaller onesthat have global
moisturising aloe vera or prominently picturing packaging at a disadvantage to those that produce
aloe vera shall not be made if the product itself has regional packaging, particularly in areas where this
no moisturising effect. In other words, just because regulation is not in effect.
a product contains aloe vera does not necessarily
mean that the formula moisturizes, and support Whats Next
must be provided. So what is next for this category? Will we see more
This is also addressed in the evidential support natural/organic bath and body products? Brands
criterion, which states: (a) claim extrapolating will need to be careful in supporting these claims.
(explicitly or implicitly) ingredient properties to the For example, Canada requires the product to meet a
finished product shall be supported by adequate recognized standard for organic certification in order
and verifiable evidence, such as by demonstrating to claim it is organic. Korea has a list of approved
the presence of the ingredient at an effective con- processes, banned ingredients and percentage
centration. If moisturization is claimed on a body requirements (see Cosmetics & Toiletries May 2015,
butter, some form of testing must be conducted p.18). Brands will need to conduct due diligence on
to support this claim. No longer can fairy dust the various organic and natural standards to employ,
levels of ingredients be used to imply efficacy. The and must ensure they have the data to meet the
regulation also says, (p)resentations of a products stringent requirements.
performance shall not go beyond the available Perhaps bath and body care will go the way of hair
supporting evidence, in the honesty criterion. and skin care with more scientific claims. One thing
Another element of the truthfulness criterion is, is for sure: brands will need to find new ways to dif-
(n)either the general presentation of the cosmetic ferentiate bath and body products, to get consumers
product nor individual claims made for the product to focus on parts below the shoulders.
shall be based on false or irrelevant information. A
good example is sulfate-free. If sulfates are not typi-
CT1609_Regulatory_Yarussi_irv.indd 21 9/20/16 2:29 PM

Testing | C&T
KEY POINTS
Rather than anti-aging claims, these authors
sought to quantify well-being as it relates to
the effects of a new active: centcyamine.
The authors confirmed a correlation between
well-being scores, instrumental observations,
self-assessment and, indirectly, in vitro
Quantifying
mechanistic data.
'Wellness'

CT1610_Test_Lintner_fcx.indd 22 9/20/16 3:33 PM

Anti-aging Benefits
Beyond Wrinkle
Reduction
P. Bedos, Ph.D., C. Leduc, Ph.D., and C. Damez, Ph.D.
Syntivia, France
A. Sirvent, Ph.D. and F. Girard, Ph.D.
Laboratoires Dermscan, France
s'
K. Lintner, Ph.D., KAL'Ides, France
N ot a day goes by without

encountering articles,
interviews or advertise-
ments that contain the
term well-being, which
often is connected
with messaging that consumers are motivated to
improve their well-being with one purchase, activity,
regime, etc.1 Governments are called upon to assure
the well-being of their country's population; the
term well-being even figures into the World Health
Organizations (WHOs) definition of health from
1948, although it was not further defined.2 Somewhat
circular is the definition of well-being found in the
Random House Dictionary: a good or satisfactory
condition of existence; a state characterized by health,
happiness and prosperity.3
As this trend increases in strength and impact on
consumer choices, the cosmetic industry cannot fall
behind. In fact, wellness and the use of cosmetic prod-
ucts have gone hand-in-hand for decades, more or less
openly claimed and promised. For example, a slogan
for Guerlain's Issima Happyology cream states, "Your
skin is never as radiant as when you are happy." This
is a good example, except for one fact: How can you
prove such a statement? Maybe it is "puffery," needing
no scientific proof, but in this age of evidence-based
cosmetics4 and even "happiness in a jar,"5 claims such
as these require substantiation in order to have
any impact.
Vol. 131, No.

Reproduction 8 | October
in English or any other 2016 of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2016 Allured Business Media.
language Cosmetics & Toiletries | 23

"Hope in a Jar" was a denigrating term given One blog asked:6 Why do they do it? That is,
to anti-aging creams and lotions suggesting more why do women shop for, buy and wear cosmetics?
or less veiled terms to slow/stop aging or to turn Do they buy cosmetics because they are useful or
back the clock on aged skin. This brings us to because they make [them] feel good?
the first question on "anti-aging:" Do we mean to The answer was: Women buy and wear makeup,
protect against too rapid aging, i.e., the preven- they told us [the bloggers], primarily for themselves.
tive approach? Or do we mean to repair existing We asked them to rank potential reasons for wear-
damage due to aging, i.e., the treatment approach? ing cosmetics. Resoundingly, female respondents put,
The last 30 years in the cosmetics industry have "feeling good about myself" at the top of the list.
seen the development of literally hundreds of In the same vein, research by Apaolaza-Ibaez
active ingredients promising some benefits in et al. showed7 both the emotional and utility aspect
either preventive or curative mode; from vitamins of cosmetic brands have a significant impact
to AHAs, from ceramides to liposomes, from on consumer satisfactionbut the emotional
isoflavones to antioxidants and resveratrol, from component has a greater effect. Some of the main
retinol to designer peptides ... during this period, positive emotions aroused by beauty products
the concepts, documented mechanisms and included, "the sensation of well-being gained from
results of in vitro and/or clinical studies have also eliminating or reducing feelings of worry and guilt,
grown in complexity, sophistication and, possibly, which is the factor with the greatest impact," the
marginal efficacy, but without truly revolution- author explained.8
izing the field. We may therefore ask ourselves the In the book Hope in a Jar,9 historian Kathy
question: Why do consumers still buy (and use) Peiss showed how women, far from being pawns
cosmeticproducts? and victims, used makeup to declare their free-
dom, identity and sexual allure as they flocked to
Why Consumers enter public life.
Use Cosmetics Following is a quote from the book: Today the
A growing number of publications discusses possibilities of transformation through cosmetics is
this question as well as consumer purchasing often belittled as a delusion ("hope in a jar") that
behavior for consumer goods described as cosmet- only masks the fact of women's oppression. In truth,
ics and/or makeup. As an aside, interestingly, for women knew thenas they do nowprecisely what
various reasons, academic studies have focused they were buying. [] They reported their delight
on what in the United States are called cosmetics; in beautifyingin the sensuous creams and tiny
i.e., color cosmetics or makeup. However, the compacts, the riot of colors, the touch of hands, ...
distinction of other categories of personal care, Indeed, the pleasures of fantasy and desire were an
e.g., skin care, body care, hair care, etc., is not integral part of the product
precise and many answers to the above question In the Harvard Business Review of May 1, 2010,
are equally valid for these other products and their M. Silverstein and K. Sayre stated: Beauty products
subcategories of anti-aging, moisturizing, firming, and services produce a sense of emotional well-being
ant-wrinkle, etc. in women.10
Davan et al. studied and quantified the impact
of cosmetic makeup on perceived age upon first
impression,11 to investigate its psychosocial and
aesthetic effects. By objectively quantifying and
The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) estimates qualifying the benefits of applying cosmetic
the worldwide wellness market to be greater makeup, the authors concluded it can reduce the
than $3.4 trillion; beauty and anti-aging perceived age, improve the projected first impres-
offerings account for $1.026 trillion. sion and increase the self-esteem of those who
apply it.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry While many other studies on similar topics
(www.GCImagazine.com) could be cited, an excerpt from a quote in the
book Just Ask a Woman, by Dan Brestle,12 former
president of Este Lauder, says it all:

The hedonic aspects and pleasure of
using cosmetic products, i.e., the well-being
and psychological improvements gained,
are the true consumer drivers.
In our business there is a passion and an essary and useful for marketing cosmetic products
understanding of the business that only women in skin care, body care and increasingly in hair
can bring. The emotionalism of buying a lipstick care. However, they are not the major factors influ-
is something lost on most marketers. It just makes encing consumer satisfaction from the products
you feel good. In our business, you can never they buy. The hedonic aspects, i.e., the pleasure
discount the emotional side of the equation. In of using the products, the well-being afforded by
my business, women are more knowledgeable; they them, and the psychological improvements gained
understand at a deeper level how the product works; from these products, are the true drivers.
and they are passionate about their products. They In addition, the cosmetics industry recognizes
love usingthem. with increasing awareness that claims, e.g., of
To summarize, yes, claims of anti-aging based complex bioactivities for DNA protection of
on specific or general anti-aging active ingredients telomerase stimulation; of -omics of all sorts; and
such as retinol, peptides, polyphenols, etc., are nec- of veiled promises for wrinkle reduction and skin
repair have lost credibility and consumers interest.
In fact, most users lack the training to understand
these concepts and mechanisms.
So, what alternative message can brands then
offer? Perhaps the new language in advertise-
ments might be, "This product helps to reduce
(wrinkles, red spots, hyperpigmentation, sagging
features, etc.), which will improve your self-
assurance, social engagement and overall well-being
by X%." The difference here being the quantitative
assertion about claims that until now have never
been measured and truly substantiated.
Thus, the objective of the present work was to
demonstrate improved parameters for "well-being"
and of (self-)perception on the basis of quantitative
results afforded by a novel ingredient, and to deter-
mine if these results were coherent with the more
classical approach of in vitro and instrumental
Figure 1. Centcyamine structure clinical studies.

Materials and Methods tion of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF)
Centcyamine13 (see Figure 1) is an alkaloid was followed over 56 days and the cell count was
found in the seeds of the cornflower Centaurea compared between treated and untreated cultures.
cyanus. This material has been used for many years Instrumental clinical studies: Various in
for its anti-inflammatory properties. The sample vivo protocols were carried out with 60 female
studied in the described tests was found to be a subjects between the ages of 45 and 65 (average
pure, perfectly characterized and safe substance. age = 56). Volunteers having dry and sensitive
In vitro studies: Exploratory in vitro tests skin and diffuse redness on the face were chosen.
were carried out with various concentrations of Thirty volunteers used a placebo formula and 30
centcyamine using qPCR microfluidic technologya other volunteers used a verum cream containing
to screen for genetic modulation in normal human centyamine. The products were used twice daily.
dermal fibroblasts. System miniaturization has Photographic assessments were madec and changes
led to the development of a chip allowing for the in redness were scored between days 1 and 56,
analysis of 96 conditions vs. 96 genes. This chip taking into account their size, the surface and the
integrates genes covering the entire range of skin intensity. Skin isotropy measures, characteristic of
activity, including the Klotho gene KL for skin restructuring effects, were carried outd and skin
longevity and the production of inflammatory firmness was measurede before and after 56 days
cytokines IL-6, IL-8 as well as COX-2. Stimulation of treatment. The studied parameters were surface
of Klotho protein synthesis was confirmed using and average depth of skin deformation.
immune-fluorescence staining and quantification Subjective evaluations: Each panelist was
by softwareb. instructed to evaluate her skin first thing in the
Collagen and elastin production were com- morning, in front of a mirror, every other day for
pared between young and senescent cells using the 56 days, using three descriptors: homogeneity of
same technology. Pre-senescent were defined as complexion, skin radiance and skin comfort. The
neoculture cells multiplied through 13 doublings subjects rated each descriptor from 0 = very weak
until their Lamin B1 expressions diminished, to 10 = very strong.
indicating a pre-senescent state. The cell prolifera- On day 0 of the trial, all 60 volunteers com-
pleted a self-evaluation questionnaire for quality
of life/well-being, referred to as the EMMBEP (a
a
Fluidigm
b
Fiji software and Arrayscan measurement scale demonstrating psychological
well-being).14 Each subject
thus described, more or
less, her state of well-being
by answering 47 questions
with scores ranging from
0 (never) to 5 (almost
always), from which a
global score from 0 to 100 is
calculated. (Authors com-
ment: It must be noted that
the EMMBEP questionnaire
does not, in any way, refer to
the cosmetic treatment, to the
sensorial or hedonistic param-
eters of the creams).
Data was analyzed for
statistical significance using
Figure 2. Klotho gene expression c

VISIA System
d
3D PRIMOS Lite system
e
Dynaskin-DermaTOP

Women under high chronic stress had lower
levels of Klotho. These decreases were age-
dependant and related to states of well-being.
the student t-test for paired data. Normality was were reduced by 16% and 22%, respectively,
verified using the Shapiro-Wilk method (a = 0.01). compared with young cells. However, in pre-
Note that clinical studies were performed during senescent NHDF cells treated with centcyamine,
November and December, in winter months. the expression of both proteins was maintained
at the level found in young cells (see Figure 3).
Results: In vitro Thus, treatment with centcyamine preserved the
Klotho gene: Centcyamine increased Klotho cells from age-induced decreases in collagen I and
gene expression in dermal fibroblasts. The stimula- elastin synthesis (see Figure 4).
tion reached 244% relative to the control (see Soothing activity: Skin exposure to external
Figure 2). This activation of Klotho gene expres- stress may lead to the expression of inflammation
sion also was confirmed at the protein level, where mediators and subsequent irritation. Inflammation
centcyamine increased the synthesis of Klotho can propagate and affect dermal cells, resulting
by 44% relative to the control. As expected for a in chronic inflammation or inflammaging.15 The
secreted and membrane localized protein, Klotho expression of COX-2 also increases with age and
was observed around the nuclei in the endoplas- contributes to skin aging. Taking basal cytokine
mic reticulum. and prostaglandin gene expression as 100% in
NHDF: The proliferation of NHDF was slightly untreated cells, however, centcyamine at a concen-
reduced by centcyamine treatment (data not tration of 3 ppm reduced the expression of IL-6,
shown), although no morphological difference was IL-8 and COX-2 in dermal fibroblasts by 55%, 56%
observed between treated and untreated fibroblasts and 64%, respectively (see Table 1).
and there was no apparent cytotoxicity. This result is in line with the known anti-
Derma matrix: In untreated, pre-senescent inflammatory effect of cornflower preparations.
fibroblasts, collagen I and elastin synthesis rates Indeed, for many years, cornflower infusions have
Figure 3. Collagen I and elastin expression; elastin labeled by immunofluorescence

in young cells (NHDF Y), pre-senescent cells (NHDF S) and NHDF treated with 10 ppm
centcyamine for 56 days

been prescribed in case of eye and eyelid irritation and to fight against conjunc-
tivitis and inflammation of the skin.
In summary, in vitro, this active molecule, first identified in cornflower
extracts by Sarker et al.,16 was found to increase Klotho protein synthesis. The
Klotho protein slows cell proliferation rates and thereby ensures cell homeosta-
sis. It also regulates various growth signals, limiting lamin B1 expression on one
hand (data not shown) and supporting dermal matrix protein synthesis (col-
Figure 4. Collagen and elastin synthesis quantified

by automated fluorescence microscopy
Figure 5. Skin firmness

6

lagen I and elastin) on the other hand, even
in senescent cells. These pathways result in
the protection and extension of cell viability. Table 1. Cytokine and Prostaglandin Gene
Moreover, centcyamine inhibited inflamma- Expression; RT-qPCR on NHDF untreated (basal)
tion mediators involved in the aging process. or after 24-hr centcyamine treatment (3 ppm)
It is for these protective effects against symp-
toms of aging that scientists have referred to
Biomarker gene % Reduction vs. Statistical
Klotho as the "youth hormone."17 expression baseline significance
Results: Clinical Studies Interleukin 6 55.0 p < 0.05
In spite of climatic influences (i.e., winter Interleukin 8 56.0 p < 0.05
weather conditions), which degraded skin COX-2 enzyme 64.0 p < 0.05
firmness in the placebo group, a significant
a)
b)
Figure 6. Individual scores of redness reduction in the verum

group(a) and placebo group (b)

difference (p < 0.006) was
observed in the evolution
of this parameter between
the two groups, where skin
elasticity was maintained
in the treated group (see
a) Figure 5).
The skin firmness
datad also show improved
skin isotropy in the
centcyamine-treated panel-
b) ists, but a degradation of
this feature in the placebo
group (p = 0.057; data
notshown).
Photographsc dem-
onstrated improved
homogeneity of skin tone
over the period of the
Figure 7. Individual scores of redness reduction in the study as the red blotches
verum group (a) and placebo group (b) were notably and sig-
nificantly reduced in the

Table 2. Well-being Scores
Well-being Happiness Commitment Stability Control

Centcyamine group 115 125 204 188 96
Placebo 85 71 125 166 36
treated group, in contrast to the placebo panel (see esteem, happiness, sociability and overall scores.
Figure 6). The volunteers using the verum cream, in contrast
However, most importantly, these instrumental to those using the placebo, estimated being hap-
results were reflected in panelists scores of self- pier (+50), more peaceful (+60), more committed
perception, with a clear but unconscious advantage (+80) and more stable in the society (+20), with an
for the verum cream over the placebo cream (see improved global wellness (+30). These results were
Figure 7). Shown here are the averages of the 30 particularly noticeable in the group of volunteers
scores taken every other day by the volunteers in who saw the best results in redness reduction (40%
the two groups. The consumers clearly were able to of the panel). The authors therefore confirmed an
see the benefits of using the test cream. A statisti- interesting correlation between well-being scores,
cal difference between the two groups (p < 0.05) instrumental observations and self-assessment
was achieved around day 34 although over time, and, indirectly, with in vitro mechanistic data (see
the differences decreased for reasons not further Table 2 and Figure 8).
explored at this time. Explanations may include
climate, holiday season stress, etc. Discussion and Conclusions
Finally, the well-being questionnaire EMMBEP This study presents in vitro data showing a
showed improvements in parameters of self- novel ingredient, centcyamine, possesses proper-
Figure 8. Changes in well-being; auto test by a five-point scale

questionnaire of 47 items (EMMBEP) based on the 40% of volunteers who
obtained the best visual scores (treated vs. placebo)

ties that help to explain clinical data observations; References
i.e., decreases in inflammatory markers, a delay in 1. www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Business-Financial/
What-does-the-cosmetics-industry-do-for-Europe
the onset of senescence and increases in the gene (Accessed Sep 2, 2016)
expression and synthesis of the Klotho protein. 2. Preamble to the Constitution of the World Health Organiza-
Instrumental measurements on 60 panel- tion as adopted by the International Health Conference,
ists further demonstrated stronger resilience in New York, Official Records of the World Health Organization
(2)100 (Jun 19-22, 1946)
centcyamine-treated skin (30 panelists) against
3. www.dictionary.com/browse/well-being (Accessed Jun 20,
external aggressors, including the maintenance of 2016)
skin elasticity, an improved skin roughness profile 4. http://ebc-japan.com/pdf/ebc-hossoku-en.pdf (Accessed
and a reduction in redness and irritation. Sep 2, 2016)
Moreover, panelists could observe detailed 5. www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/en/products/product.

php?id=72 (Accessed Sep 2, 2016)
results by the subjective evaluation of their faces
6. http://blog.fieldagent.net/a-primer-on-cosmetics-
in a coherent and continuous way. For the first 500-women-talk-makeup-shopping-usage-survey
time, such a study was accompanied by the use (Accessed Sep 2, 2016)
of a validated well-being questionnaire, which 7. V Apaolaza-Ibaez, P Hartmann, S Diehl and R Terlutter,

Women satisfaction with cosmetic brands: The role of dis-
was completed before and after the trial period. satisfaction and hedonic brand benefits, African J Business
Changes indicated improved well-being scores Mgmt 5(3) 792-802 (2011)
aligned with improved facial features. 8. www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/07/110721095846.
htm (Accessed Sep 2, 2016)
However, as the old statistics adage goes,
9. K Peiss, Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty
"Correlation does not indicate causation,"18 and Culture, University of Pennsylvania Press, (Nov 29, 2011)
this study is not suggesting the centcyamine 10. MJ Silverstein and K Sayre, The Female Economy, Product
substance itself induces well-being sentiments in #R0909D-PDF-SPA (May 1, 2010)
the brain, even if it is known that increased levels 11. SH Dayan, K Cho, M Siracusa and S Gutierrez-Borst,
Quantifying the impact cosmetic makeup has on age
of circulating Klotho protein are correlated with perception and the first impression projected, J Drugs
lower stress symptoms. A recent study provided Dermatol 14(4) 366-74 (Apr 2015)
first evidence of this; specifically that the amount 12. ML Quinlan, Just Ask a Woman: Cracking the Code of What
of detected Klotho in ones circulation is sensitive Women Want and How They Buy, Wiley (May 2003)
to environmental influences, especially to chronic 13. An extract rich in centcyamine in hydroglycolic solution is
sold as Clotholine, Syntivia S.A.S., France
psychosocial stressors. This data revealed women 14. R Mass, C Poulin, C Dassa, J Lambert, S Blair and A
under high chronic stress had significantly lower Battaglini, The structure of mental health: Higher-order
levels of Klotho, in comparison with low-stress confirmatory factor analyses of psychological distress and
well-being measures, Social Indicators Res 45 475-504
controls; interestingly, the rates of decrease were (1998c)
age-dependent and related to states of well-being.19 15. C Franceschi and J Campisis, Chronic inflammation (inflam-
While the pleasure (hedonic) aspects of using maging) and its potential contribution to age-associated
diseases, J of Gerontology (2014)
a cosmetic product can be measured on the spot
16. SD Sarkera, A Lairda and L Naharb, Indole alkaloids from
and focus on immediate sensations, e.g., sensory the seeds of Centaurea cyanus (Asteraceae), Phytochemis-
experiences, the long-term psychological benefits try 57 12731276 (2001)
of quality cosmetic formulations require differ- 17. H Kurosu et al, Suppression of aging in mice by the
ent approaches. The results of the present work hormone Klotho, Science 309 (5742) 18291833 (Sept 16,
2005) doi:10.1126/science.1112766
suggest a new path to cosmetic research and
18. J Aldrich, Correlations genuine and spurious in Pearson and
marketing. The novel sensorial, perceptional and Yule, Statistical Science 10(4) 364376 (1995)
neuroscientific methods used to demonstrate 19. AA Prather et al, Longevity factor Klotho and chronic
consumer-perceivable cosmetic benefits are more psychological stress, Translational Psychiatry (2015)
subjective and psychological and can thus be based

on specifically targeted ingredients and original
pertinent measurement methods.
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CT1606_ColorFormularyAd.indd 1 8/10/16 1:57 PM

Testing | C&T
KEY POINTS
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne,
traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is
associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin
aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates,
these researchers developed an in vitro model
to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl
hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a
new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation
of genes indicative for premature aging.

CT1610_Test_Meyer_irv.indd 36 9/20/16 4:23 PM

The
Dirty Truth
The AhR
Pathway
Tells All
About
Pollution-induced
Skin Aging
Imke Meyer and William Johncock, Ph.D.
Symrise AG, Hamburg, Germany
Susanne Grether-Beck, Ph.D., and Jean Krutmann, Ph.D.
Leibniz Institut fr Umweltmedizinische Forschung GmbH,
Dsseldorf, Germany
M
ore than 80% of consumers worldwide
think skin absorbs pollution from the
air. Pollution, dirt and chemicals from
vehicle emissions, plants, factories, ciga-
rette smoke, etc., are seen by consumers
as the second largest cause of skin, scalp
and hair problems across the globe; the
first is lack of sleep. In some countries,
e.g., Russia and China, air pollution is considered a predominant
cause of hair and skin problemseven more than sun exposure.
Those most sensitive to dust and dirt are consumers in Brazil,
Mexico, Pakistan and India, followed by Russia and China.4
This consumer perception is based in part on epidemiological
studies showing that human exposure to airborne, traffic-related

Particulate matter activates the
aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), which
induces the expression of genes responsible
for skin aging and dark spot formation.
particulate matter (PM) is associated with tion (WHO) encourages governments in cities to
increased signs of extrinsic skin aging, including monitor the pollution in air.5 Measurements are
wrinkle formation and, most importantly, pigment recorded for the parameters PM2.5 and PM10, i.e.,
spot formation.1-3 This effect was strongest with the concentrations of airborne particulate matter
soot, indicating it might be due to carbon particles with a diameter of less than 2.5m and less than
having a size in the nano- to micrometer range 10 m, respectively.
and/or organic substances bound to the surface of In fact, for large cities, consumers are able to
these particles; particularly polyaromatic hydro- check, based on forecasts given by the government
carbons (PAH) such as benzo[a]pyrene (BaP). and available on the internet and via apps, their
The sources of the air pollutants are diverse exposure to PM for the day. As it is difficult to
including, as noted, vehicular traffic and exhausts, completely avoid exposure to PM, consumers are
coal burning power plants and industrial combus- looking for alternate ways to protect the skin, with
tion, cigarette smoke, but also indoor domestic increasing demand for cosmetic products having
kitchen cooking fires. The World Health Organiza- such special protective effects.
Recent scientific work has shown the exposure
of human epidermal keratinocytes to particulate
matter causes activation of the aryl hydrocarbon
receptor (AhR), which induces the expression of
genes responsible for premature skin aging and
dark spot formation.6 Here, the authors developed
a method to measure the protective effects of a
recently identified AhR antagonist, E/Z-2-benzyl-
indene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one
(BDDI)a,7 against premature aging induced by
diesel exhaust particles (DEPs).
Materials and Methods

Figure 1. BDDI; MW = 308.4 g/mol Cell culture: Adult human epidermal kerati-
nocytes were kept sub-confluent in 12-well plates
for culture and treatment with DEPs. Twenty-four
hours prior to addition of DEPs, keratinocytes
According to the World Health Organization, were starved in keratinocyte medium without
54% of today's global population is urbanized, bovine pituitary extract (BPE) or epidermal
so providing beauty solutions for increasingly growth factor (EGF). The test compound BDDI
urban consumers holds high potential. (see Figure 1) was dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide
(DMSO, 10 mM) and applied 2 hr prior to treat-
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry ment with the DEPs.
(www.GCImagazine.com) a
SymUrban (INCI: Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone), Symrise
b
National Institute of Standards and Technology, Gaithersburg, MD, USA

Model DEPs: Standard reference materials Table 1. Characteristics of SRM1650b
(SRMs) SRM1650b and SRM2975b were used as and SRM29759, 10
surrogates for authentic street particulate matter.
SRM1650b was collected from the heat exchangers Mean Particle Total Extractable
of a dilution tube facility to represent heavy-duty Diameter Mass
diesel engine particulate emissions. SRM2975
SRM1650b 0.18 m 20.2% 0.4%
was collected from an industrial diesel-powered
forklift. Both SRMs were previously described in SRM2975 31.9 m 2.7% 0.2%
detail8 and well-characterized (see Table 1).9, 10

Figure 2. Model diesel extracts induced up-regulation of CYP1A after 24 hr in
human adult keratinocytes; BDDI protected from DEP-induced up-regulation
Figure 3 . SRM1650b up-regulated POMC gene after 6 hr in human adult

keratinocytes; BDDI protected from DEP-induced up-regulation

AMA guarantees the fastest, most reliably accurate
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Figure 4. SRM1650b upregulated IL-6 gene after 6 hr in human adult
The SRMs were suspended in phosphate buffered an up-regulation of 16.53-fold ( 0.98SE) and
saline and sonicated for 1 min, then directly 4.90-fold ( 0.17SE) by SRM1650b and SRM2975,
added to the keratinocytes at a concentration of respectively, after 24hr. Thus, by using the model
1.5gcm2. particles SRM1650b and SRM2975 as surrogates8
RNA isolation and PCR: Total RNA was for authentic street particulates, an up-regulation
prepared as described elsewhere.11 Cyp1A1 of Cyp1A1 as a gene marker indicative of AhR
gene as a marker for AhR activation and matrix activation was observed. SRM1650b resulted in a
metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene as a marker stronger up-regulation of Cyp1A1 gene expression
for wrinkle formation were quantified 6 hr after compared with SRM2975 on cells of both donors.
application of DEPs. Also, the interleukin-6 (IL-6) Therefore, follow-up experiments were performed
gene as a maker for inflammation and inflammag- using only SRM1650b.
ing, and the proopiomelanocortin (POMC) gene The BDDI AhR test agonist, at 10 M, signifi-
as a marker for hyperpigmentation and pigment cantly inhibited the DEP-induced up-regulation
spot formation were quantified 24 hr after applica- of the Cyp1A1 gene; in Caucasian keratinocytes
tion of DEPs by qRT-PCR (see Table 2). Three by 96.7% and 88.2%, respectively, and on Asian
samples for each condition were processed with keratinocytes by 74.8% and 98.0%, respectively.
two determinations for each. SRM1650b enhanced POMC gene expression,
related to hyperpigmentation, 1.5-fold ( 0.03SE)
Results significantly after 6 hr. However, BDDI signifi-
Cyp1A1 gene expression was significantly cantly protected against this induction at levels of
increased in the adult keratinocytes from a 10 M and 2.5 M (see Figure 3).
53-year-old female Caucasian donor by 23.23- The cytokine IL-6 gene, associated with
fold ( 0.64SE) and 5.10-fold ( 0.06SE) by inflammation, was elevated 1.4-fold ( 0.04SE) by
SRM1650b and SRM2975, respectively, after SRM1650b after 6 hr; but again, 10 M and 2.5 M
24 hr (see Figure2). The same experiment on of BDDI inhibited this up-regulation significantly
adult keratinocytes from a 67-year-old female (see Figure 4). Additionally SRM1650b signifi-
Asian donor yielded comparable results, with cantly increased MMP-1 gene expression, 2.4-fold

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Figure 5 . SRM1650b upregulated MMP-1 gene after 24 hr in human adult
Table 2. Real time primers
Marker
Sequence Reference
18S rRNA
5 -GCCGCTAGAGGTGAAATTCTTG-3
18S rRNA XO3205
5 -CATTCTTGGCAAATGCTTTCG-3
5 -ATGAAAGGTGGACCAACAATTT-3
MMP1 NM_002421.3
5 -CCAAGAGAATGGCCGAGTTC-3
5 -TGGAAGTGCGTGGCTGGT-3
POMC NM_001035256.1
5 -TGCACTCCAGCAGGTTGCT-3
5 -AGATGGTCAAGGAGCACTACAAAA-3
CYP1A1 NM_000499.3
5 -GCTCAATCAGGCTGTCTGTGAT-3
5 -CCTCGAGCCCACCGGGAACG-3
IL-6 NM_000600
5 -AACTGGACCGAAGGCGCTTTGTG-3
( 0.0SE) after 24 hr. BDDI at 1 M significantly up-regulated Cyp1A1 expression. The induction
lowered this gene induction to 0.63-fold ( 0.03SE) by SRM1650b was notably stronger. The particles
versus untreated (see Figure 5). of this SRM are smaller in size (see Table 1), but
more importantly, for a stronger activation of the
Discussion AhR, is their extractable mass as this is an indica-
These studies nicely showed that SRM1650b tion of the bound PAHs on the particles, which are
and SRM2975, as surrogates for authentic street very lipophilic and by this, are capable of penetrat-
particulate matter, were able to stimulate the AhR ing the skin and activating the AhR (see Figure 6).
pathway in epidermal keratinocytes, measured as SRM1650b had a loading of about 20% of extract-

Figure 6. PM are coated with PAH, which are released into the skin
able mass, compared with a loading of less than 3% The application of a newly identified AhR
for SRM 2975 (see Table 1). antagonist, BDDIa, however, was able to pre-
The induction of premature aging was mea- vent the up-regulation of Cyp1A1 induced by
sured by up-regulation of the POMC gene as a SRM1650b and SRM2975. Also, the SRM1650b
marker for hyperpigmentation and pigment spot induction of POMC, IL-6 and MMP-1 gene
formation; of the IL-6 gene as a marker for inflam- expression could be significantly diminished by
mation and inflammaging; and of the MMP-1 gene BDDI. This nicely showed the applicability of this
as a marker for wrinkle formation after incubation method on human adult epidermal keratinocytes
with SRM1650b. as a standardized model to investigate whether

cosmetic active ingredients protect against air pollution-
induced skin aging.
Furthermore, Tigges et al.7 previously showed in
vivo how BDDI, a transiently inhibiting AhR antagonist,
penetrates the human skin and blocks AhR-dependent
signaling. In this study, BDDI was incorporated into a
finished formula dosed at 0.5% and applied for four days
on the buttock. Skin was irradiated with 1.5 MEDs of UVB
radiation to activate AhR signaling 2 hr after the daily
treatment. Twenty-four hours later, different genes related
to premature aging were observed to be up-regulated, but
BDDI significantly reduced this up-regulation, indicating
a significant protective effect. This suggests the cosmetic
active BDDI is capable of protecting not only against UVB-
induced, but also air pollution-induced premature signs of
aging comprising wrinkle formation, hyperpigmentation
and inflammaging processes.
Conclusion
Experiments are ongoing to assess the induction of pre-
mature aging by air pollution in vivo and ex vivo on human
skin explants and to prove BDDI is capable of protecting
against air pollution-induced hyperpigmentation.
References
1. A Vierkotter et al, Airborne particle exposure and extrinsic skin aging,
JInvest Dermatol 130 2719-2726 (2010)
2. D Perner et al, Association between sun-exposure, smoking behavior
and plasma antioxidant levels with the different manifestation of skin
aging signs between Japanese and German womenA pilot study,
JDermatol Sci 62 138-140 (2011)
3. A Vierktter and J Krutmann, Environmental influences on skin aging
and ethnic-specific manifestations, Dermatoendocrinol 4 227-231(2012)
4. Consumer Market Insight Data Source, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients
Consumer Study database (2012, 2013, 2014)
5. http://apps.who.int/iris/bitstream/10665/69477/1/WHO_SDE_PHE_
OEH_06.02_eng.pdf (Accessed Sep 2, 2016)
6. M Nakamura, A Morita, S Seite, T Haarmann-Stemmann, S Grether-
Beck and J Krutmann, Environment-induced lentigines: Formation of
solar lentigines beyond ultraviolet radiation, Exp Dermatol 24 407-11
(2015)
7. J Tigges et al, The new aryl hydrocarbon receptor antagonist E/Z-
2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one protects
against UVB-induced signal transduction, J Invest Dermatol 134 556-9
(2014)
8. PH Danielsen, S Loft and P Moller, DNA damage and cytotoxicity in type
II lung epithelial (A549) cell cultures after exposure to diesel exhaust and
urban street particles, Part Fibre Toxicol 5 6 (2008)
9. National Institute of Standards and Technology: Certificate of Analysis,
SRM 1650b, Diesel Particulate Matter (Sep 27, 2006)
10. National Institute of Standards and Technology: Certificate of Analysis,
SRM 2975, Diesel Particulate Matter (Mar 19, 2009)
11. S Grether-Beck, Bioactive molecules from the Blue Lagoon: In vitro and
in vivo assessment of silica mud and microalgae extracts for their effects
on skin barrier function and prevention of skin aging, Exp Dermatol 17
771-79 (2008)

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Fast Analysis of
Cosmetic Allergens
Using Convergence
Chromatography with
Mass Spectrometry
H
air care manufacturers who wish to products based on alternative ingredients.
create products without silicones must Silicones made their first arrival to hair care in the 1950s,
find effective and innovative ingredients in the form of lubricants used to help stop hair spray nozzle
that provide a sensorial profile close to blockage. (http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulat-
silicone, while keeping performance and ing/function/moisturizer/7653302.html)
cost in mind. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of By the 1980s, silicones had become a mainstay for
repeating units of siloxane, which is a chain of alternating hair conditioning benefits. In January 2009, the Cana-
silicon atoms and oxygen atoms, frequently combined dian Environmental Protection Agency concluded
with carbon and/or hydrogen. High molecular silicone that siloxanes D4 and D5 are not a concern for human
grades and silicone derivatives are usually included in health but deemed them harmful for the environment.
hair care formulations for conditioning and shine effects. (http://davidsuzuki.org/issues/health/science/toxics/
Over the years, ingredients such as silicones have chemicals-in-your-cosmetics---siloxanes/)
been revered as excellent conditioners that improve both As consumer concerns grew, silicone substitutes started
wet and dry combing, but consumers are increasingly to gain momentum in the shampoo category, growing
influenced and educated through social media, and are 47% for North American shampoo launches from January
more aware and concerned with the impact the products 2012 to September 2016 (Mintels Global New Products
they buy have on their health and the environment. As Database).
such, there is an unwavering push toward personal care There is also growing concern in Asia over the use of
CT1610_Test_BC_Waters_fcx.indd 50 9/20/16 4:39 PM

Branded Content
silicone-containing hair products. Asian consumers hair made compound for a strong hair-conditioning effect in
is generally straight, stiff and strong, and these consumers shampoos. It provides a significant improvement in wet-
typically look for products that will give their hair a silkier combing and sensorial performance on different hair types
texture or provide additional softness. Silicone has histori- equivalent to those of silicone-containing benchmarks. Even
cally been the solution, providing smoothness and a silky/ with higher levels of hair damage, Plantasil 4V significantly
shiny appearance. However, reports of the negative effects of reduces combing force. These effective properties are also
silicone on the scalp started to get traction a few years ago, demonstrated with low surfactant levels.
and Japan quickly developed a silicone-replacement seg- When it comes to formulation, BASFs new ingredient
ment. This is also seen in South Korea with many launches shows clear benefits: It is easy to use in cold processes and
now touting a silicone-alternative solution. compatible with all relevant conditioning polymers. The
BASF Care Creations has identified the need for replace- new compound also offers the clear solubilization of oils
ment options to silicone on the market, and currently offers in surfactant bases, andhas less impact on foam and no
several products that meet this requirement. The latest in its stabilization issues, compared with other hair care additives.
growing portfolio is Plantasil 4V, an economical, tailor- As for the future of silicone, you can expect to see the

Branded Content
choices for silicone to evolve with more consumers looking 4. Rastogi S C. Analysis of Fragrances in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatogra-
phy-Mass Spectrometry. J High Resolution Chrom. 18: 653658, 1995.
for other conditioning solutions.
5. Lopez-Nogueroles M, Chisvert A, Salvador A. Determination of atranol
and chloratranol in perfumes using simultaneous derivatization and disper-
sive liquid-liquid microextraction followed by gas chromatography-mass
References spectrometry. Analytica Chimica Acta. 826: 2834, 2014.
1. Larson W, Nakayama H, Fischer T, et al. Fragrance contact dermatitis: 6. Desmedt B, Canfyn M, Pype M, et al. HS-GC-MS method for the analysis
a worldwide multicenter investigation (Part II). Contact Dermatitis. 44(6): of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices. Talanta. 131:
344346, June 2001. 444451, 2015.
2. The European Parliament and the Council of the European Union. Regula- 7. Villa C, Gambaro R, Mariani E, Dorato S. High-performance liquid chro-
tions (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council matographic method for the simultaneous determination of 24 fragrance
of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Official Journal of the allergens to study scented products. J Pharmaceutical and Biomedical
European Union. L 342/59: 59-209, 22nd Dec 2009. [cited 2015 January Analysis. 44: 755762, 2007.
15]. Available from: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri 8. Rudback J, Islam N, Nilsson U, et al. A sensitive method for determination
=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:en:PDF of allergenic fragrance terpene hydroperoxides using liquid chromatogra-
3. Debonneville C, Chaintreau A. Quantitation of suspected allergens in fra- phy coupled with tandem mass spectrometry. J Sep Sci. 36:13701378,
grances: evaluation of comprehensive GCconventional MS. J Chromatogr 2013.
A. 1027: 10915, 2004.
Waters. ACQUITY, UPC2, Xevo, and The Science of Whats Possible are registered trademarks of Waters Corporation. Ultra Performance Convergence Chromatogra-
phy is a trademark of Waters Corporation.

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Formulating | C&T
KEY POINTS
Microbial stability mainly is achieved by
reducing water activity, selecting the right
preservative and keeping the emulsion and pH
value stable.
Assess the formula ingredient by ingredient
and identify those that could influence
stability behavior with even modest variations.
Speed Up
the R&D Process
I
Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems
n formulation, it makes good sense to say, Quality should be
created, not checked. We can apply this rule to stability param-
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D. eters but first, lets define stability. Interpreting European law,
one can surmise that stability is the continuity of functionality
Rigano Industrial Consulting
and safety of a cosmetic formula.
and Research, Milan, Italy
According to this interpretation, elements involved in the
microbiological and chemical stability of the ingredient blend must be
controlled. Thus, if ingredients maintain the same structure they had
upon assembly, formula functionality and safety are guaranteed.
A slightly more extended interpretation of stability, borrowed from

CT1609_Formulating_Rigano_fcx.indd 54 9/21/16 4:58 PM

To improve the microbial safety confidence level
quickly, evaluate formulas containing 1/3 less
preservative than the standard in parallel.
the pharmaceutical field, binds this concept to of formulas prepared without excessive hygiene
the continuity of product quality. According to precautions in the short term gives important info
Oxford Biosciences,1 stability means to ensure about their ease of contamination.4, 5
that the product maintains its intended physical, Moreover, it is necessary to consider how the
chemical and microbiological quality, as well as ingredients and packaging will potentially interact
functionality and aesthetics, when stored under with preservatives; for example, poly-ethoxylated
appropriate conditions. emulsifiers or polar polymers frequently deac-
This same concept is comprehensively tivate preservatives. Also, nutrient-rich raw
described in the Personal Care Products Council materials, e.g., honey and hydrolyzed proteins,
(PCPC, formerly CTFA) and Cosmetics Europe should be examined not only for their microbial
Guidelines2 but everything flows as a river, the count, but also for their spore content and role in
Greek Heraklitus once wrote. Indeed, what would supporting microbial growth in the product.
be the judgement criteria for accepting or reject- On the other hand, formulae that techni-
ing possibly unavoidable variations in properties? cally cannot be microbiologically polluted, e.g.,
This question strictly relates to the specificity of anhydrous formulae, those containing more than
each formula. 20% ethyl alcohol and those with extreme pH
The second concern is how to build and vali- values or very high ion concentrations, should not
date evaluation models for adequately stressing, be tested. Microbial testing means reproducing
during a defined period, the samples. This means scenarios that occur during manufacturing; e.g.,
establishing the energy supplied, manufacturing contamination by ingredients, surfaces and pack-
details, temperature and all conditions mimicking aging materials or wrong handling and improper
the future shelf life and usage path. filling. Indeed, most risks are caused by consum-
The third hurdle is how to minimize the comers who pick up and spread the product with their
plexity and duration of stability testing procedures contaminated hands, exposing the surface of the
while at the same time maximizing the confidence product to environmental microbial charge.
level of results. Moreover, stability evaluations of The microbial challenge test is currently
a formula dramatically extend the development considered the best way to verify, a posteriori, the
time and intricacy of a launch into the market. robustness of a formula to microbial insults. In
Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read effect, it indicates the capability of a freshly made
the abundant literature in the field of stability, the
aim of this article is to give some clues for starting
stability matters with the right footindeed, to
anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the
R&D process. In a 2014 survey, more than 70% of consumers
felt they were smarter shoppers for purchasing
Microbiological Stability private label products. Notably, speed-to-
Building microbial stability in a formula is market was seen as a key benefit of them.
mainly achieved3 by reducing its water activ-
ity, selecting the right preservation system and
keeping the emulsion and pH value stable. During
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
development phases, the evident stability behavior (www.GCImagazine.com)

formula to resist heavy attacks. To quickly acquire testing. It is useful to have previously evaluated
a wider confidence level for microbial safety, one the organoleptic and physico-chemical variables of
can evaluate formulas containing 1/3 less preser- the first prototypes throughout the development
vative than the standardformula in parallel. process and to take note of all problems encoun-
Another quick stress test is to challenge a tered; such as incompatibility, lack of homogeneity
formula that contains 10% to 20% extra water.6 of the bulk, etc.
This models of what could happen in the case Keeping such records allows for the identifica-
where water evaporates from the product bulk tion of possible reactions among ingredients. In
and successively condenses onto its surface. general, it is useful to start preparing the base
Furthermore, long-term microbial resistance formula without the most problematic ingredients,
should be checked over time, even if the product e.g., perfumes, colors, vegetal extracts and insoluble
is already in the market. The best model is to pre- (or barely soluble) actives., in order to identify the
pare samples in their final packaging, filled only stability of the base alone.
20% and kept at room temperature for one year. Systematically adding the accompanying ingre-
Some companies carry out analytical determina- dients, one by one, makes it easy to identify those
tions of preservatives after long storage times, but influencing stability. In the formulation steps from
this is certainly not the cheapest way of testing for one prototype to the next, it is also better to modify
antimicrobial stability. one ingredient at a time, again to help identifying
the problematic materials.
Chemical and In a sunscreen containing dissolved organic (i.e.,
Physical Stability chemical) filters in the oil phase, one should test
Again, one should not wait for the completion its cold stability by maintaining it at 4C for 24 hr,
of the final formula before starting any stability then checking for the precipitation of crystals.

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A general rule of the thumb is to assess the the results will rely on an experts evaluation.
preliminary formula ingredient by ingredient, At 50C, many active molecules decompose,
to identify those that could dramatically influ- perfumes evaporate, oxidation and hydrolysis
ence the behavior of the formula if they are even reactions take place faster and liquid crystals
modestly varied. Examples include acids or alkali, structures disappear. At 40C, however, the accel-
thickeners and emulsifiers. Building models eration of unwanted reactions may be too slow.
whereby variations are purportedly obtained, one An optimal testing temperature of 42C-43C is
by one, and verifying their behavior over a short suggested. Logically, if a product will be marketed
period, e.g., one month, can paint an interesting in hot climate, though, the 50C test is also neces-
overall picture of stability behavior. sary. Moreover, in shampoo, discoloration can
In order to reproduce the chemical storms occur at 50C after two weeks, whereas it takes
that can happen during shelf life and identify the four weeks at 43C.
formulas stability profile, some classic test models Remember temperature indiscriminately
can be used to overwork samples, described increases the speed of all reactions, per the Arrhe-
asfollows. nius law, and that time takes the lowest activation
energy to allow reactions to occur. In other words,
Extreme Temperature cosmetic reactions that are heavily reliant on high
The most popular tests raise or lower sample temperatures are always less stable over time.
temperatures to higher or lower than ambient Freeze-thaw cycles, even if their duration is just
or room temperature. Ambient is generally 25C two or four weeks, are even more puzzling. They
while higher values are 50C, 45C or 40C. In provide a reliable sense of a formula's behavior
general, the more extreme the condition, the more only when the results of several formula variants

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are compared. Stabilization or destabilization is based on more than 20 years of experience.
effects of additives are clearly observed. Unfortunately, w/o emulsions and suspensions
For the described high-temperature tests, the with solids cannot be tested in such a way. The
suggested duration depends on the stage of the advantage is the very short time necessary to get
formula's development. Preliminary samples, e.g., the answer. Again, answers are better when testing
those made in the lab and not deaerated, are kept in a comparative mode.
in glass containers for three months maximum Transport: Another test is to put the samples
with controls each month. Pilot plant samples are in their final packaging in the trunk of a car
kept for six months in their final container and and drive on different days for a total of at least
controlled at one, two, three and six months. 2,000km (~1,243 miles), then examine samples.
The first industrial run is controlled as above, The combination of vibration plus temperature
plus one control after a year, but just for samples cycles is challenging both for the product and the
kept at room temperature and 4C. Samples kept package, including inks and labels. Laboratory
at 4C generally represent the freshly made equipment that reproduces these conditions only
formula, which is ideal for comparisons with gives vibrations and shaking without the effects of
high-temperature samples. They also indicate the temperature cycles.
behavior of the formula at a low temperature. One
classic problem encountered is the precipitation of Chemical Analysis
allantoin in form of sharp needles from saturated Chemical analysis generally is applied to test
aqueous phases kept in cold weather conditions. active ingredients. For example, in the case of sun-
screens, one could test UV filter content; although
Combination Test dealing with complex mixtures, especially with
Window test: A very Empiric but instructive mineral filter suspensions, it is more convenient
test is the window test. This literally consists to check the UVB and UVA SPF values. To save
of putting the samples near to a glass window time and money, the number of volunteers can be
exposed to the south. The day and night tem- reduced in respect to the standard. If the new val-
perature cycle and the UVA and visible light ues statistically fit into the set of values obtained
irradiation easily challenge the formula param- at time 0, then a formula's functioning and safety
eters. Again, this is a good comparative test, and can be considered stable.
lasts only one month maximum. For detecting the oxidation stability of
Centrifugation: Centrifugation also is vegetal fats and oils, the peroxide number can
frequently carried out. In a series of experiments be measured, while for hydrolysis resistance,
aimed to identify the best duration, temperature the amount of free fatty acids developed can be
and acceleration to discriminate stable from evaluated. One instrument that is quite predictive
unstable o/w emulsions, our lab identified the fol- to test the robustness of an antioxidant system is
lowing conditions: 7,000 g for 30 min at 35C with called Rancimat. It blows air into the sample at
an experimental error on the order of 10%. This hightemperatures.

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While the amount of volatile compounds objectivity, one can apply standard methods of
formed with different levels of antioxidants is panel sensory analysis, including the duo trio,
indicative enough, a preliminary Empirical test triangle or ranking test. These are especially useful
for oxidation fastness is an olfactory test. Here, a to understand if rheological behavior differences
thin layer of product is put onto a glass slide and are easily detected by consumers.13 Before evalu-
in a glass jar with cap. The jar is stored at 42.5C, ations, a correspondence scale between sensory
then evaluated by olfaction after one week by a answers and viscosity values should be developed
trainedevaluator. to allow for the creation of a table having numeri-
cal values bound to imperceivable differences.
Physical Tests Last but not least, applying the product and
pH values and rheology are the most common spreading it over the skin is the experts confor-
types of stability tests and they include many mity control, which is more responsive than many
contemporary changes. Defining acceptable instrumental controls.
variations, in the case of pH, will depend on expe-
rience, composition, historical background of the References
formula and its efficacy parameters. In general, 1. http://oxfordbiosciences.com/stability-testing/ (Accessed
0.5 units is considered acceptable when the Sep 16, 2016)
formula is at a pH from 5.5 to 7.5. More acidic or 2. PCPC (formerly CTFA) and Cosmetics Europe, Guidelines
on stability testing for cosmetic products (3-2004)
alkaline starting values require a reduction in the
3. H Ziolkowsky, Industrial hygiene in the cosmetic sector,
acceptability interval to 0.2 to 0.3 units. Note DGK Verlag fr chemische industrie 122 (2010)
that general rules do not apply to special formulas 4. W Siegert, Microbiological quality management for the
such as those containing high amounts of urea. production of cosmetics and detergents, SFW (Nov 2012)
Methods based on emulsion turbidity7, 8 are 5. N Tschierske et al, Efficacy loss of antimicrobial actives in
emulsions, SFW (Apr 2012)
also successful for a large percentage of emulsions,
6. A O'Lenick, Comparatively speaking: Water content vs.
and measuring the zeta potential of emulsions9,10 water activity, Cosm & Toil (Dec 2010)
is a good way to predict long-term stability, as 7. www.alfatest.it/pagina.php?p=17 (Accessed Sep 16, 2016)
high values (> 25mEV) suggest the prevalence of 8. www.lum-gmbh.com/LUMiSizer_product-information.html
repulsion forces among the particles. (Accessed Sep 16, 2016)
9. Gasparelo et al, Zeta potential and particle size to predict
Packaging emulsion stability, Cosm & Toil (Nov 2016)
10. H Saunal, Influence of homogenization on emulsion stability,
Weight variation in packaging materials can Intl J Cos Sci (Oct 1982)
help to identify the absorption of ingredients 11. D Cadwallader, Stability testing, Cosm & Toil (Aug 2010)
from the formula. These variations are checked in 12. F Achim et al, Stable formulations with critical ingredients,
samples kept under vacuum for a certain period. Cosm Tech (Jan 2016)
Tight closure effectiveness can also be verified 13. N Wanek, Trouble-shooting with sun protection, SFW (Jul
2011)
under vacuum by filling the containers with
colored liquids.11
Humidity absorption is another test that is
especially good for final packaging materials. C&T Daily Newsletter
Here, samples are kept at 70% RH and 45C. Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
Checking the integrity and visual appearance of delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
the packaging material is important both before
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/newsletter
and after accelerated temperature tests. Dispens-
ing conditions and continuity are also important
factors to test and control.
C&T Webcasts
Sensory Find current and upcoming webcasts at
Sensory or organoleptic evaluations are usu- www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
ally carried out by a technical expert in the R&D

or quality assurance lab.12 Further, to maintain

CT16_ad_template.indd 1 5/23/2016 1:27:00 PM
Branded Content
Solving the Mystery

of Natural Product
Preservation
This content is sponsored by:
Photo courtesy of schlke
P
ersonal care formulators are aware that natu- oil phases decreased from highly polar in variant A, to
ral products can be difficult to preservebut highly non-polar in variant C. While the most nonpolar
not always for the reasons they might think. variant (variant C) was easily stabilized using 0.75%
Certainly, natural thickeners (like xanthan) sensiva PA 40, higher levels of sensiva PA 40 consistent
and plant extracts can carry their own bio- with the increase in polarity of the oil phase were required
burdens, increasing the workload on the preservative in (see Table 1; for complete test formulas, contact schlke).
the formulation. However, the higher potential for natural Additionally, a liquid crystal emulsion formula was
materials to carry organisms into the formulation process prepared. Variant A contained a highly polar oil phase.
is not the only preservation issue. The polarity of the oil phase was reduced in variant B. The
In continuing effort to provide customers with the best more polar oils were reduced by half in variant C, reduc-
formulation stewardship, schlke has researched why ing the overall oil phase. Variant D retained the variant
some formulations are harder to preserve than others. A polar oil phase, but 4.00% propanediol was added as
This research led to an interesting finding: natural oils a booster for the preservation system. The results (see
make a natural formula more difficult to preserve. Table 2) showed variant B (non-polar) was relatively easy
Natural oils and other esterified emollients have to preserve using euxyl K 900. The lower polar oil phase
replaced traditional mineral oil in many modern per- variant (variant C) required the addition of a preserva-
sonal care products. These newer oil-phase materials are tive booster (sensiva SC 10) to improve preservative
often more polar than traditional oil-phase materials. performance. The most highly polar variants (variants
Traditional preservatives, like formaldehyde-donors and A and D) required a higher level of sensiva SC 10 or a
isothiazolinones, are highly water-soluble and remain combination of sensiva SC 10 and propanediol to attain
in the water phase of emulsions, where microorganisms adequatepreservation.
exist. However, many newer alternative preservative sys- The ongoing trend toward natural is making the
tems (i.e., containing caprylyl glycol, phenethyl alcohol, preservation of personal care products more difficult for a
ethylhexylglycerin) have limited water solubility. There- variety of reasons. The accompanying trend toward softer,
fore, the partition coefficient between the oil and water non-traditional preservation systems can add to the
phases of preservatives/antimicrobial boosters is impor- complexity of formulating these systems. The preserva-
tant to the role they play in the efficacy of emulsions. tion experts at schlke understand the changing needs of
schlke carried out tests varying the composition and the personal care industry.
polarity of the oil phase in a body lotion. Overall oil phase Let schlke help you solve the mysteries of better
levels remained relatively constant, but the polarity of the natural formulations.
CT1610_BC_Form_Schulke_fcx.indd 64 9/22/16 9:53 AM

Branded Content
CONTACT
SCHLKE
schlke inc.
30 Two Bridges Road, Suite 225
Fairfield, NJ 07004, USA
Phone: 888-267-4220
Fax: 973-770-7302
Email: [email protected]
www.schulke-us.com
CT1610_BC_Form_Schulke_irv.indd 65 9/21/16 1:07 PM

Branded Content
Photo courtesy of BASF

This content is sponsored by:
Replacements for
Silicone in Shampoo
Formulations
H
air care manufacturers who wish to Over the years, ingredients such as silicones have
create products without silicones must been revered as excellent conditioners that improve both
find effective and innovative ingredients wet and dry combing, but consumers are increasingly
that provide a sensorial profile close to influenced and educated through social media, and are
silicone, while keeping performance and more aware and concerned with the impact the products
cost in mind. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of they buy have on their health and the environment. As
repeating units of siloxane, which is a chain of alternating such, there is an unwavering push toward personal care
silicon atoms and oxygen atoms, frequently combined with products based on alternative ingredients.
carbon and/or hydrogen. High molecular weight silicone By the 1980s, silicones had become a mainstay for
grades and silicone derivatives are usually included in hair hair conditioning benefits. In January 2009, the Cana-
care formulations for conditioning and shine effects. dian Environmental Protection Agency concluded that
CT1610_Form_BC_BASF_irv.indd 66 9/22/16 10:05 AM

Branded Content
siloxanes D4 and D5 are not a concern for human health but made compound for a strong hair-conditioning effect in
deemed them harmful for theenvironment.1 shampoos. It provides a significant improvement in wet-
As consumer concerns grew, silicone substitutes started combing and sensorial performance on different hair types
to gain momentum in the shampoo category, growing 47% equivalent to those of silicone-containing benchmarks. Even
for North American shampoo launches from January 2012 with higher levels of hair damage, Plantasil 4V significantly
to September 2016 (Mintels Global New Products Database). reduces combing force. These effective properties are also
There is also growing concern in Asia over the use of demonstrated with low surfactant levels.
silicone-containing hair products. Asian consumers hair When it comes to formulation, BASFs new ingredient
is generally straight, stiff and strong, and these consumers shows clear benefits: It is easy to use in cold processes and
typically look for products that will give their hair a silkier compatible with all relevant conditioning polymers. The
texture or provide additional softness. Silicone has histori- new compound also offers the clear solubilization of oils
cally been the solution, providing smoothness and a silky/ in surfactant bases, and has less impact on foam and no
shiny appearance. However, reports of the negative effects of stabilization issues, compared with other hair care additives.
silicone on the scalp started to get traction a few years ago, As for the future of silicone, you can expect to see the
and Japan quickly developed a silicone-replacement seg- choices for silicone to evolve with more consumers looking
ment. This is also seen in South Korea with many launches for other conditioning solutions.
now touting a silicone-alternative solution.
BASF Care Creations has identified the need for replace- References
ment options to silicone on the market, and currently offers 1. http://davidsuzuki.org/issues/health/science/toxics/
several products that meet this requirement. The latest in its chemicals-in-your-cosmetics---siloxanes/
growing portfolio is Plantasil 4V, an economical, tailor-
CONTACT BASF
BASF
973-245-7638
[email protected]
ulprospector.com
carecreations.basf.com
CT1610_Form_BC_BASF_irv.indd 67 9/21/16 3:10 PM

Formulating | C&T
Color Formulary
Color Color
MAKE IT LAST
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MEDIUM SHADE
Croda
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Designed to deliver exceptional makeup-extending benefits,
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comfortable. It holds makeup in place all day with a film- contouring trend. These bronze Illuminating Contour Powders
forming technology made comfortable by Crodamol STS, which are simple to make and can be used to add an overall glow or
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Hair Care
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This ammonia-free permanent hair dye features Floraesters
K-20W Jojoba, a natural emollient that decreases dye time and Add color and fragrance to the bath experience with this fizzing,
hair dye fading. The results are soft hair with long-lasting color funky, purple rock. Moisturizing cocoa butter and calming
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Color
BB CREAM WITH SPF 30
The Hallstar Company
This BB cream formulation was designed to provide light facial

coverage and broad-spectrum (SPF/PFA) SPF 30 performance.
SolaStay S1 provides rapid and efficient excited state quenching
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Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product Visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com to view the
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CT1610_Clr_Form_irv.indd 68 9/21/16 1:55 PM

Visit SCS Formulate
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Endpoint. | C&T
Big Data with

a Grain of Salt
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
Cosmetics & Toiletries B ig Data is everywhere, tracking click-throughs,
web cookies and time stamps of our daily lives
like the digital paparazzi. It can be used for
good, revealing patterns in the most miniscule
of details and leading to discoveries beyond our
wildest imaginations. But in the wrong hands,
its dangerous; unraveling identities, draining bank accounts or worse.
From a scientific standpoint, Big Bad Data is greedy and hungry, swal-
lowing everything in its path to chew it up and spit it out, making something
from nothing. This can lead to false correlations and, as our industry has seen,
junk science. And now that were tallying up results from intricate tests of
genetic up- and down-regulation, alterations in our bodys microbiome and
neuron response patterns for product likes/dislikes, we have to be careful.
Linter and co-authors said it in their article beginning on Page 22, Cor-

CT1610_Endpoint_irv.indd 70 9/21/16 2:03 PM

relation does not indicate causation. So much data skeptical ones. And when they base that meaning
can easily mislead the misguided or faint of heart. on Big Bad Data, it can create something from
Thats why data analyst Susan Etlinger noted during nothing which further fuels the skepticism. It
a recent TED Radio Hour on NPR Radio that makes it all the more important to ask: how good is
context is crucial.1 our data?
People Make Meaning, Putting Big Data into

So Think Critically Practice
When it comes to Big Data and the challenges Thankfully, were not alone. In fact, wed be
of interpreting it, size isnt everything, said Etlinger, hard-pressed to find an industry thats not collect-
who explained theres also its speed and variety of ing Big Data and trying to connect the right dots
types (images, text, video and audio). And what for good use. Richard Shriffin, of Indiana Univer-
unites these disparate types of data is theyre created sity, studied2 how others are attempting to draw
by people and they require context. causal inferences from Big Data.
Etlinger expanded, Facts are vulnerable to The age of Big Data poses enormous chal-
mis-use; willful or otherwise. Why? Because data lenges because collecting and storing the data
doesnt create meaning. People do. And now, with are only a minimal first step. He described Big
the capability to process exabytes of data at lightning Data collection in stages: 1) finding interesting
speed, we have the potential to make bad decisions patterns in the data; 2) explaining those patterns,
far more quickly, efficiently and with far greater e.g., with experimental manipulations of variables
impact than we did in the past, she said. and additional data; and 3) using the patterns and
This makes it all the more important to spend explanations for a variety of purposes.
time on the humanitiessociology, rhetoric, Finding interesting patterns is itself a daunting
philosophy, ethics, etc., because they give us context. task because a hallmark of Big Data is the fact that
They help us become better critical thinkers, it vastly exceeds human comprehension.
Etlinger said, adding they also help teach us to find He outlined several questions that must be
confirmation biases and false correlations. [Just] asked. How does one define causality ... in ways
because something happens after something doesnt that make sense for large recurrent interacting
mean it happened because of it. systems? and How does one judge what is a sig-
As my high school algebra teacher used to nificant pattern or correlation? ... These questions
say, show your math because if I dont know what and their answers are, to a large extent, a matter of
steps you took, I dont know what steps you didnt statistical practice and implementation.
take. And if I dont know what questions you asked, Then again, traditional statistics were initially
I dont know what questions you didnt ask. She developed to deal with 22 tables, which are
added this means asking the hardest question of all: nowhere near the complexities of Big Data. Need-
Did the data really show us this? Or does the result less to say, statisticians are working on this, too.
make us more successful? Most Big Data [is] formed as a nonrandom
sample taken from the infinitely complex real
Unregulated and world: Pretty much everything in the real world
Out to Get Us interacts with everything else, to at least some
This is a hard question indeed, made harder degree, wrote Shriffin. Well, thats no help.
by the fact that were self-regulated, as nongovern- In the end, it seems the best thing we can do
mental organizations (NGOs) like to remind us. To is remember our methods and data have limits.
some, self-regulated means unregulated, which to Whatever the results tell us should be reconsid-
distrusting human nature means companies are free eredand more than once. We dont want to feed
to lie to and steal from us for financial gain. into Big Bad Data; we need to see it in context and
So while a product may be built upon good, serve it with a grain of salt.
factual science, and business logic dictates we are
shooting ourselves in the foot to put forth false References
claims and harmful ingredients to the very consum- 1. www.npr.org/2016/09/09/492297311/
how-do-we-approach-big-data-with-a-critical-eye
ers we serve, humans create meaning. Especially 2. www.pnas.org/content/113/27/7308.full
CT1610_Endpoint_irv.indd 71 9/21/16 2:03 PM

Advertiser Index | C&T
October 2016 | Volume 131, number 8
AAK Personal Care Cosphatec GmbH Lubrizol Advanced

3 28 59
[email protected] [email protected] Materials, Inc.
www.aakpersonalcare.com www.cosphatec.com www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
ActivON Co. Ltd. Dr Straetmans Chem. Prod. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

46 21 7
[email protected] GmbH [email protected]
www.activon.kr [email protected] www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.dr-straetmans.de
Ajinomoto North America, Inc. MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc.
29 43
[email protected] Excellentia International [email protected]
63
www.ajiaminobeauty.com [email protected] www.morretec.com
www.excellentiaint.com
AkzoNobel Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.
57 C3
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare Givaudan Active Beauty www.nikkol.co.jp
C2
www.givaudan.com
AMA Laboratories, Inc. Sabinsa Corp.
41 5
www.amalabs.com Grant Industries [email protected]
1
[email protected] www.sabinsacosmetics.com
BASF www.grantinc.com
58
[email protected] schlke, Inc.
17
www.carecreations.basf.com Ichimaru Pharcos Co. Ltd. [email protected]
47
(p. 6667) [email protected] www.schuelke.com
www.ichimaru.co.jp (p. 6465)
Berj, Inc.
9
[email protected] Ikeda Corp. Sytheon Ltd.
48 49
www.berjeinc.com [email protected] [email protected]
www.ikeda-corp.co.jp www.sytheonltd.com
Bio-Botanica, Inc.
19
www.bio-botanica.com Innospec Ltd Vevy Europe SpA
69 32
[email protected] [email protected]
Centerchem, Inc. www.innospecinc.com www.vevy.com
C4
[email protected]
www.centerchem.com Institut DExpertise Clinique Waters Corporation
31 50
www.iecfrance.com www.waters.com
Clinical Research Labs, Inc. (p. 5152)
45
www.crlresearchlabs.com
CT1610_Advertiser_Index_fcx2.indd 72 9/23/16 3:46 PM


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October 2016

Meet Belcorps John Jimnez

and Other Up-and-comers

CT1610_Cover_fcx.indd 1 9/20/16 11:54 AM

Cover Story Contents

10 Special Report: Ones to Watch

70 Endpoint: Big Data with a

36 The Dirty Truth About Pollution-

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

CT1610_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 2 9/22/16 9:30 AM

Formulating OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

CT1610_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 4 9/21/16 4:26 PM

6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

CT1610_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 9/21/16 4:33 PM

Reduces the appearance of pores and

DEcrEasEs conspicuous porE sizE

CT16_ad_template.indd 1 9/8/16 11:55 AM

Art, Science and Skin Chefs

Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

C&T: What do you enjoy most about this industry?

Trefor Evans, Ph.D.

Karl Laden, Ph.D.

Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D. cosmetics has definitely become my professional priority in

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

CT1610_Advisor_Insight_fcx.indd 8 9/20/16 1:39 PM

+1 973 748 8980 | WWW.BERJEINC.COM

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B eing at the bench can sometimes feel thankless,

Reproduction in English or any other language of

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Lvia Salomo Calixto

Want the full interviews?

Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11

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12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

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Harshita Kumari, Ph.D.

Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 13

CT1610_Mrkt_Ones_to_Watch_fcx.indd 13 9/21/16 4:06 PM

Petya Ruda (Todorova)

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

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Want the full interviews?

Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 15

CT1610_Mrkt_Ones_to_Watch_fcx.indd 15 9/21/16 4:07 PM

Alban Muller has introduced Amiperfect ER (INCI: Gaultheria

Blue Light Pollution Skin Volumizer

Photo Credit: Ashland Specialty Ingredients Photo Credit: Cosphatec LLC

16 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

CT1610_Tech_Launches_irv.indd 16 9/20/16 2:16 PM

Key words: bath, body, care, trend, anti-aging

Head and Shoulders

O ver the last few years, our industry has

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20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 8 | October 2016

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