Extraction of Natural Dye From Ficus Cunia and Dyeing of Different Fabrics

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Kundal et al., Nat Prod Chem Res 2016, 4:3
Natural Products Chemistry & Research
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http://dx.doi.org/10.4172/2329-6836.1000214
Research
Nat
ISSN: 2329-6836
Research Article Open Access
Extraction of Natural Dye from Ficus cunia and Dyeing of Polyester

Cotton and Wool Fabric Using Different Mordants, with Evaluation of
Colour Fastness Properties
Jyoti Kundal1*, Shyam Vir Singh2 and Purohit MC1
1
Department of Chemistry, HNB Garhwal University (A Central University), Campus Pauri (Garhwal), Uttarakhand-246 001, India
2
Department of Chemistry, SGRR PG College, Pathri Bagh, Dehradun, Uttarakhand-248 001, India
Abstract
Due to the various side-effects of synthetic dye, a need has been felt to discover the new dye yielding plants and
optimization of various conditions of dyeing. Ficus cunia was proved to be the good dye yielding plant and wide range
of color shades were obtained when different mordants were used with different mordanting methods. Leaves of
this plant were used for dyeing wool and polyester cotton (PEC) using different mordants, viz. Potassium Aluminium
Sulphate, Ferrous Sulphate, Stannous Chloride and Tannic Acid along with one natural mordant. The natural dye
extract gave different shades using different natural and synthetic mordants. The washing, rubbing and light fastness
properties of dyed samples were assessed and good to excellent fastness grades were obtained.
Keywords: Ficus cunia; Mordants; Natural dye; K/S value; Wool and with the leaves of Ficus cunia, efforts has also been done to optimize the
polyester cotton best mordanting method and shades obtained using various mordants.
Introduction Materials and Methods

The genus Ficus belongs to family Moraceae. This genus includes Collection of plant material
about 750 species of woody plants [1]. It is evergreen tree up to 5 m
tall. Bark- rough, dark-grey, leaves- lamina variable, mostly elliptical Leaves of Ficus cunia were collected from Pauri district of
base highly unequal sided. The water extract of bark of this plant is Uttarakhand, then dried and crushed in a fine powder. This powdered
used for bath to fight leprosy and juice from root is administrated leaves were used as a dye material (Figure 1).
for liver problems [2]. Dyeing with natural resources is an oldest Extraction of dye for wool and PEC
technique, even today in most of the regions, despite the availability
of synthetic dyes, many people continue to use plant extracts for color Aqueous dye solution was prepared, by adding 5 gm of leaves of
fabrics, masks or food. Various researches have shown that some dyes Ficus cunia in 100 ml of water. The extraction was done at 100C for
from plants generally possess desirable colour properties and good
performance on natural fibres which are comparable to some highly
rated synthetic dye [3-5].
Natural dyes have also better biodegradability and generally have
higher compatibility with the environment. They are nontoxic, non-
allergic to skin, non-carcinogenic, easily available and renewable [6,7].
The invention of the first synthetic dyes by William Henry Perkin in
1856 changed the situation and later, the synthetic dyes received faster
acceptability due to a wide range of applications in various fields like
food [8] cosmetic [9] photodynamic therapy [10] non-linear optical
activity [11] and more importantly in textile industries due to ease in
dyeing, and overall cost factor [12,13]. But, during the last few decades,
the use of synthetic dyes is gradually decreasing due to an increased
environmental awareness and harmful effects because of either toxicity
or their non-biodegradable nature.
Figure 1: Leaves of Plant Ficus cunia.
As a result, recently a ban has been imposed all over the world
including European Economic Community (EEC), Germany, USA
and India on the use of some synthetic dyes. The advantages of
using natural colorants are manifolds as they are eco-friendly, safe *Corresponding author: Jyoti Kundal, Department of Chemistry, HNB Garhwal
for body contact, unsophisticated and harmonized with nature [14] University (A Central University), Campus Pauri (Garhwal), Uttarakhand-246 001,
obtained from renewable sources and also their preparation involves India, E-mail: [email protected]
a minimum possibility of chemical reactions. The shades produced Received March 14, 2016; Accepted March 21, 2016; Published March 29, 2016
by natural dyes/colorants are usually soft, lustrous and soothing to
Citation: Kundal J, Singh SV, Purohit MC (2016) Extraction of Natural Dye from
the human eye. However, the natural dyes have their own limitations Ficus cunia and Dyeing of Polyester Cotton and Wool Fabric Using Different
like availability, color yield, stability, and complexity of dyeing process Mordants, with Evaluation of Colour Fastness Properties. Nat Prod Chem Res 4:
and reproduction of shades but these problems can overcome by using 214. doi:10.4172/2329-6836.1000214
synthetic mordants. Copyright: 2016 Kundal J, et al. This is an open-access article distributed under
the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted
Present study deals with the dyeing of polyester cotton and wool use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and
source are credited.
Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

ISSN: 2329-6836 NPCR, an open access journal
Citation: Kundal J, Singh SV, Purohit MC (2016) Extraction of Natural Dye from Ficus cunia and Dyeing of Polyester Cotton and Wool Fabric Using
Different Mordants, with Evaluation of Colour Fastness Properties. Nat Prod Chem Res 4: 214. doi:10.4172/2329-6836.1000214
Page 2 of 6
one hour at 6-7 pH. The hot solution was filtered and a clear solution fabrics (wool and cotton) of same size all three layers were sewn from
was obtained which is used for dyeing wool fabric. Same extraction was all side this is said to be the sandwich type of arrangement of fabrics.
done for Polyester cotton at 8-9 pH. The washing is done by 5% non-ionic soap solution (cell det (R)) for 60
minute using Washing fastness tester (Laundarometer) using 50 steel
Mordants used balls. The samples were rinsed in running water and dried in shade
Three synthetic mordants and one natural mordant were used for and then assessed with the help of grey scale (ISO: 05-A02) and (ISO-
mordanting viz. Potassium Aluminium sulphate, Stannous Chloride, 105-A02) for loss of shade and extent of staining.
Ferrous sulphate and Tannic acid.
Test for color fastness to rubbing
Mordanting methods used This test was done as per IS: 766-1984 method using Crock meter.
Pre-mordanting: Fabric was treated with mordant for 30 minute A piece of cotton was rubbed 10 times on a sample with the help of
at 60C, wool and polyester cotton was dyed by the standard method crock meter. Two types of rubbing were done, wet rubbing and dry
prescribed for natural dyes. The dyeing was carried out at 1:30 MLR rubbing. The staining on the wet and dry piece of fabric is evaluated
(material to liquor ratio), for 40 min at 80C. Dyeing and mordanting with the help of grey scale as per ISO-105-A03.
is done by using Rota-Dyeing machine. As we know that synthetic
K/S values (Determination of surface color strength) (Dye
mordants are very toxic and their maximum use can create an
environmental issue so only 1% of mordanting was done which is a ability of dyed fabric)
permissible limit. The K/S value of the dyed and undyed wool and cotton fabrics
Post-mordanting: In this method both the fabric were dyed first was determined by measuring surface reflectance of the sample using
then mordanting as the method used above and rinsed in hot and then a computer aided Mcbeth 2020 plus reflectance spectrophotometer
cold water and finally treated with mordant solution for 30 minute at using the following Kubelka-Munk equation
60C and rinsed.
(1 R max )
2
K
Simultaneous-mordanting: 1 ml of 1% mordant is mixed with 30 =
S 2 R max
ml of dye extract and then 1 gm of fabric is dyed with it for 40 minutes
at 60C. Where K is the coefficient of absorption, S is the coefficient of
scattering; Rmax is the surface reflectance value of the sample at particular
Different fastness properties: Dyed fabrics were then undergone
wavelength when maximum absorption occurs for a particular dye /
different fastness tests viz. light, washing and rubbing etc. to optimize
colorant. The K/S values of dyed yarn is directly proportional to the
the best shade and best method of dyeing.
amount of dye present in the material and it has been also found that
Test for color fastness to light generally K/S value get increase with mordants.
This test is carried out as per IS: 2454-1984 method. The dyed Results and Discussion
samples of 3 6 cm were fixed on a black cardboard in such a way that
The preliminary experiments shows that the leaves of Ficus
all samples were half exposed and half covered. This frame was placed
cunia yield a wide range of colors and so detail study was conducted
inside the fadeometer fitted with mercury bulb tungsten lamp (MBTF).
to standardize the methods of extraction and application of dyes
The specimens were brought out after 17 hour and color fading was
on polyester cotton (PEC) and wool yarn. The results obtained are
assessed against the blue wool standards (BS 1006: BOI: 1978).
discussed below.
Test for color fastness to washing using Launderometer (TC/
Fastness tests
UICT/TEQIP)
Color fastness to washing: The samples were assessed on the basis
Color fastnesses to washing of the dyed samples were determined of change in color and staining on the adjacent fabrics with the help of
as per IS: 764-1984 method. In this test the different dyed fabric were grey scale. The rating is given in Table 1 on the basis of which, it has
cut into pieces of 10 4 cm and placed between two pieces of undyed been found that in PEC, good to excellent (4 to 4-5) fastness grading
S No Mordant used Mordanting Color change Color change Staining Staining

Method (PEC) (Wool) (PEC) (Wool)
Cotton PEC Cotton Wool
1. Pot. Alum. sulphate Pre 4/5 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4
Post 4/5 4 4/5 4 5 5
Sim. 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
2. Tannic acid Pre 4/5 2 4/5 4 4/5 4/5
Post 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 5 4/5
Sim. 4 3/4 4/5 4 4/5 4/5
3. Ferrous sulphate Pre 4/5 2/3 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Post 4/5 5 4/5 4 4/5 4/5
Sim. 4 1/2 4/5 45 4/5 4
4. Stannous chloride Pre 5 3 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Post 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 5 4/5
Sim. 4 4/5 3/4 4/5 4/5 5
Table 1: Rating of Fastness to washing for PEC and Wool.

Page 3 of 6
ranges were obtained with four mordants. In case of wool, fastness Dye ability test (K/S values): The color strength of dyed fabric was
grading ranges good to very good (4 to 5) were obtained with Pot. assessed by using computer color matching machine, k/s values of all
Alum. Sulphate mordant, poor to very good (2 to 4) with Tannic acid, the dyed samples were determined (Table 4). According to values it is
poor to excellent (1/2 to 5) with FeSO4 and fair to very good (3 to 4/5) clear that wool sample absorb the more natural colorant as compare to
with Stannous chloride were obtained (Table 2). PEC. In case of wool maximum color strength was shown by mordant
FeSO4 than after Potassium aluminium sulphate and SnCl3, color
Color fastness to rubbing: Color Fastness to rubbing used to
absorption with Tannic acid was very less and its effect can be seen
determine the stability of the dyed color on the Fabrics. The values
in Photograph 2. For PEC absorption 9 was very less and again FeSO4
obtained for PEC, shows that there was no color staining to excellent
gave the maximum absorption.
(4/5 to 5) with Tannic acid and FeSO4, whereas no color staining
(5) with Potassium aluminium sulphate and stannous chloride were Color shades obtained: An original Camelion brown color was
obtained in case of dry rubbing. In case of wet rubbing a noticeable to obtained with the leaves of Ficus cunia on both PEC and Wool fabrics,
slight (3 to 4) staining with SnCl2 and Potassium aluminium sulphate, when it was treated with the different mordant and mordanting
a noticeable to negligible (4 to 4/5) with FeSO4, slight to negligible (4 methods, a large no of shades were obtained (Table 5) as given below
to 4/5) with Tannic acid were obtained. In case of dry rubbing slight and effects can be seen in Photographs 1-8.
to non-staining (4 to 5) range of fastness was obtained using four
mordants for wool fabric. In case of wet rubbing noticeable to negligible Conclusion
(3/4 to 4/5) staining range were obtained with all the four mordants. Ficus cunia locally known as Khaina is so far chemically unexplored
Color fastness to light: Light is also a very important factor which in terms of dye properties, can be proved to be the dye yielding plant
effects the color, generally color get faded in sun light so this test gives of Garhwal Himalaya. The leaves of this plant gave wide range of color/
very important information that whether the color applied on fabric is shades using different synthetic and natural mordants with different
stable to light or not. So to perform this test dyed samples were placed mordanting methods. The colorant produced from the leaves of this
in light for more than 15 hour continuously. Table 3, indicates that for plant is also found to be very stable on fibres; it is further supported
PEC, dyeing along with Potassium aluminium sulphate, Tannic acid by the different fastness test. The present work is the little bit effort
and SnCl2 gave the good to very good (5 to 6) fastness grade and good
to excellent (5 to 7) with FeSO4. For wool dyeing along with Tannic S No Mordant used Mordanting K/S Values K/S Values
Method (Wool) (PEC)
acid and FeSO4 showed very good to excellent (6 to 7) fastness grading
1. Pre 5.8607 0.9004
whereas very good (6) for Potassium aluminium sulphate and good to Pot. Alum. Sulphate Post 3.546 1.7169
very good (5 to 6) for SnCl2 were obtained.
Sim. 2.4993 1.4429
Rating 2. Pre 2.7648 0.8123
Mordanting Rating values
S No Mordant used Values Tannic acid
Method (Wool) Post 2.8134 1.3366
(PEC)
Sim. 2.2079 1.4528
Pre 5 6
1. Pot. Alum. Sulphate 3. Pre 9.0913 0.3638
Post 5/6 6
Ferrous sulphate Post 6.5487 2.2018
Sim. 6 6
Sim. 2.2358 2.2310
Pre 6 6
Tannic acid 4. Pre 4.3455 1.3884
2. Post 6 7
Stannous chloride Post 2.7463 0.6138
Sim. 5 6
Sim. 3.8634 1.1025
Pre 5 7
3. Ferrous sulphate Post 7 7 Table 4: K/S Values of Wool and PEC samples dyed by plant Ficus cunia.
Sim. 6 6
Pre 5 5 Mordanting
S No Mordant used (PEC) (Wool)
4. Stannous chloride Post 6 6 Method
Sim. 5 6 Pre Pinkish brown Dark yellowish
Table 2: Rating of Fastness to Rubbing for PEC and Wool. Post Dark camelion Yellowish brown
1. Pot. Alum.
Sulphate Light brownish
S No Mordant used Mordanting Staining Staining Sim. Light camelion
yellow
Method (PEC) (Wool)
Pre Dark camelion Yellowish brown
Dry Wet Dry Wet
Light brown
1. Pot. Alum. sulphate Pre 5 3 4 4 Post Yellowish brown
2. pinkish
Post 5 4 4 4 Tannic acid
Light Yellowish
Sim. 5 4 4/5 3/4 Sim. Pinkish brown
brown
2. Tannic acid Pre 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 Pre Blackish brown Pinkish dark grey
Post 5 4 4/5 4/5
3. Ferrous Post Dark grey Dark grey
Sim. 4/5 4 4/5 3/4 sulphate
3. Ferrous sulphate Pre 5 4 4 3/4 Sim. Creamish white Light grey
Post 4/5 3 4/5 4 Pre Pinkish brown Yellowish brown
Sim. 5 4/5 5 4 4. Stannous Post Light brown Light brown
4. Stannous chloride Pre 5 4 4 3/4 chloride
Sim. Pinkish brown Dark brown
Post 5 4 4/5 4
Sim. 5 3 4/5 3/4 PEC: Polyester cotton; Sim: Simultaneous
Table 5: Showing the various shades obtained from different mordants and
Table 3: Rating of Fastness to Light for PEC and Wool. mordanting methods.

Page 4 of 6
Photograph 1: Shows effects of various shades obtained from different mordants and mordanting methods.

Page 5 of 6

Page 6 of 6
toward the commercialization of natural dyeing to meet the increasing 7. Adeel S, Ali S, Bhatti IA, Zsila F (2009) Dyeing of Cotton Fabric using
demand of natural dye. Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Aqueous Extract. Asian J Chem 21: 3493-3499.
8. Fossen T, Cabrita L, Andersen OM (1998) Colour and stability of pure anthocyanins

Acknowledgements
influenced by pH including the alkaline region. Food Chem 63: 435-440.
Authors are highly thankful to Dr. R.V. Adveraker, Professor, Department of
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Fibre and Textile, ICT, Mumbai who let us completed this research work in his lab.
160-166.
Authors are also thankful to UGC, New Delhi for the financial support.
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Fibre and Textile Res 34: 384-399. 4: 214. doi:10.4172/2329-6836.1000214


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Research Article Open Access

Extraction of Natural Dye from Ficus cunia and Dyeing of Polyester

Introduction Materials and Methods

Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

S No Mordant used Mordanting Color change Color change Staining Staining

Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

8. Fossen T, Cabrita L, Andersen OM (1998) Colour and stability of pure anthocyanins

Nat Prod Chem Res Volume 4 Issue 3 1000214

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