Sunset - January 2017 PDF
Sunset - January 2017 PDF
Sunset - January 2017 PDF
GIVE BACK,
70 AMAZING WAYS TO
JUMP-START
BETTER
with TOMS
founder
Blake
Mycoskie
IDEAS FOR A
SMALL-SPACE
REFRESH!
JANUARY 2017
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A N S W E R T H E C A L L A T S A N D I E G O . O R G / VA L U E
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January
EXPERIENCE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
the WEST
60
GAME PLAN: A
WEEK OF MEALS
These flavorful, make-
ahead, mix-and-match
vegetarian recipes are
your path to healthy-
eating success.
By Charity Ferreira
70
TINY HOME,
BIG DREAMS
One Seattle couple
shrugs off traditional
homeownership
for a 200-square-
foot Airstream.
By Jess Chamberlain
Photograph by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
EXPERIENCE the WEST
January
8 O O
THIS MONTHS
RECIPES
S O ST APPETIZER
Sumac Hummus
GF/LC/LS/VG...................62
MAINS
Braised Short Ribs with Pear,
Ginger, and Star Anise ......80
Buttered Herbed Potatoes
and Shrimp GF/LC .............89
Pressure Cooker Chicken
Pho GF.................................84
Roasted Wild Mushroom
Pappardelle V .....................89
Saffron Tomato Chickpeas,
Freekeh, and Brussels
1 T O
A g ee e ea , a b ed
concrete vases, barn-wood
Sprouts.................................66
Slow-Cooker Carnitas
GF ........................................88
furniture, icy vegan desserts, Sumac Hummus with Kale
and more Ribbons and Roasted
17 For
PROFILE
TOMS founder Blake
HOME & GARDEN
82 Author
MASTER CLASS
Andrea Nguyen
cracks the pho code for
Brown Basmati Coconut
Rice VG ...............................62
Mycoskie, seeing the world
inspired him to do better in it. 33 Three
DECORATING IDEAS
creative attic renova-
tions prove just how much
the home cook. Freekeh Tabbouleh ...............68
Freekeh with Parsley
and Onions LC/VG ............63
22 Powder
TAKE ME THERE
play: Bypass hard
fun you can pack into a
small space. 88 Three
FAST & FRESH
quick weeknight meals,
including slow-cooker
Garnish Plate for Pho
(Dia Rau Song) ..................86
snow, long lift lines, and drafty Herbed Chickpeas
carnitas and roasted wild-
lodges for the new ski holiday.
42 From
IDEA GARDEN
Succulents, our new
book, comes a California
mushroom pappardelle
GF/LC/LS/VG ....................62
Kale Ribbons
GF/LC/LS/VG ....................63
28 Treehouses
TREND
elevate ordinary
vacations into experiences
garden devoted to the
low-water lookers. 90 Allbold,about
IN THE SUNSET KITCHEN
olive oil: mild vs.
Red Pear Salad with
Lemon Parmesan Dressing
all-purpose vs. finishing, GF/LC/LS/V .......................79
filled with wonder. and deciphering the label Roasted Winter Squash
46 What
GARDEN CHECKLIST
to do in your garden with Honey, Tahini, and
Lime GF/LC/LS/V ...............63
in January
92 Are SIP
you an aspiring wine-
maker? Realize your
Saffron Tomato Chickpeas
GF/LC/VG ..........................62
dream through a local Spiced Brown Basmati
FOOD & DRINK community college. Coconut Rice
GF/LC/LS/VG ....................62
77 Put
PEAK SEASON
juicy, sweet pears to
work in salad, dessert, 98 Enter
UP NEXT
our Instagram contest
DESSERT
Comice Pear Clafoutis
LC/LS/V...............................78
and even ginger-braised to win a coastal getaway for
short ribs. two to San Diego! PANTRY
Ginger Dipping Sauce
(Nuoc Mam Gung) ...........86
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A W T E
A R H O
D S # 1
V O T E D
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nathan Lump EDITORIAL OPERATIONS/FINANCE DIRECTOR Clare McHugh GENERAL MANAGER, LIFESTYLE Regina Buckley
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Irene Edwards
Thomas J. Story
PHOTO PRODUCTION EDITOR E. Spencer Toy
EDITORIAL SERVICES MANAGER Angela Brassinga PRODUCTION BOOK PRODUCTION MANAGER
WINE WINE EDITOR Sara Schneider Linda M. Bouchard
COPY COPY CHIEF Trina Enriquez DIGITAL SENIOR EDITOR Jessica Mordo
RESEARCH CHIEF Michelle Lau ASSOCIATE EDITOR Carol Shih
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Nena Farrell, Marie Salcido ASSISTANT DIGITAL PRODUCER Zoe Gutterman
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jess Chamberlain, FELLOW Nikolas Wright
Catherine Dash (Market), Jennifer Marnach (Los Angeles), SUNSET PUBLISHING CORPORATION
Nino Padova, Jenna Scatena BUSINESS OFFICE Jessica Yan (Finance Director), Hollie Hawkins
proteins like Wild Salmon, VP Jennifer Staiman THE DIRECTORY, LOCAL INSIDE EDITIONS, DIGITAL
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WildernessDogFood.com
2016 Blue Buffalo Co., Ltd.
New
JUMP-START
verb \j mp-strt\
to start (a vehicle whose battery is not
& Now
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY, E. SPENCER TOY, LISA ROMEREIN/GETTY IMAGES
enceseven among the 1.25 million subscribers of this magazine who live in places toms founder
blake
like Idaho and California, Washington and New Mexico, I certainly am aware that mycoskie in
differences exist. But I also believe that deep down, we cherish the same desires for malibu
our everyday lives. To feed our families a nourishing weeknight dinner (page 88).
To create an inspiring home, whether that be a homestead in the desert (page 48) or
a 200-square-foot Airstream in an RV park (page 70). To feel empowered to follow
our true calling, like 67-year-old NASA scientist Walt Brooks (page 92), who DEFINITION: MERRIAM-WEBSTERS COLLEGIATE DICTIONARY;
proved its never too late to become a winemakerand made it happen by enrolling
in his local community college. The year is fresh; the future is ours to imagine. The
West has always been about living the dream.
Meet me
IRENE EDWARDS, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | @irene_sunset | [email protected] in Palm Springs
Were thrilled to announce our
2017 Idea House in this beautiful
desert town. A collaboration
Write to us, tweet us, or tag us on your Instagram; we promise with Better Built Inc., o2 Architec-
JOIN THE SUNSET COMMUNITY we read each and every one of your comments. ture, and interior design team
30 Collins, the stunning modern
facebook.com/ @sunsetmag @Sunset pinterest.com/ home will open for tours in Octo-
SunsetMagazine on Instagram on Twitter SunsetMag ber. sunset.com/PSIdeaHouse.
8 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
WHAT MAKES A DOER?
TU IN
NE
Find out how these real AMERICAN DOERS inspire us all. Theyre the everyday
self-starters who defy the odds and turn dreams into realities. From big-city
strivers to small-town superheroes, AMERICAN DOERS share their passion, their
courage, and their unbreakable spirit in this groundbreaking new video series.
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with our smart and stylish storage solutions. Only at Bed Bath and Beyond.
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BEST OF THE
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W H AT W E R E T R AC K I N G T H I S M O N T H
We wanted to create
a secret for people
to stumble upon in
the citylike a hot
spring discovered
while hiking in the
mountains. So says
Sunny Simmons
about Onsen, his
newly launched
holistic spa and tea-
room in San Fran-
ciscos Tenderloin
neighborhood.
Inspired by Japans
community bath-
houses, he and his
wife, Caroline Smith,
bought a defunct
auto body shop and
transformed the for-
mer mechanics pit
into a contemporary
bathing pool, com-
plete with a skylight
fringed with ferns.
Six private treatment
rooms offer afford-
able massages, Reiki,
and acupuncture;
a small restaurant
serves inventive
dishes (thick rice
porridge with miso
kimchi and quail
egg) along with a se-
lection of teas and
sakes. The duo spent
three years building
the spa by hand,
he raiding second-
hand shops for the
steampunk-style
showerheads and
she illustrating the
URBAN BATHHOUSE
signage that doubles
as wall art. Adds
RAQUEL VENANCIO
Simmons, Every
BEST element has its own
SOAK story. From $30 for
two hours; onsensf.com.
Jenna Scatena
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 11
BEST
COLOR
STORY
YES, THIS
IS CONCRETE
Cold and gray is how most
BEST
REUSE
BARN-WOOD REVIVAL
people think of concrete, but The initials in its name stand for rustic aged wood, and thats exactly what Salt Lake Citys
Matt Heide sees it as a blank R.A.W. Restorations turns into furniture and pieces of art. Ive always made use of reclaimed
canvas. The English-lit grad materials, says cofounder Kelley Jensen, a contractor for almost 35 years. Pallets, lumber, logs,
was applying a quick-set con- you name itIve taken it and reinvented it. Now hes in business with daughter Kate (pic-
crete to leaky storm drains tured), a former mortgage broker who has long had a passion for building. The two are true
around Edmonton, Canada, partners: Kate finds retired barns, the two dismantle them, and then they create products rang-
when its pliable, super- ing from dining tables and dog beds to floor panels for Airstream renovations. Theres so much
sculptural nature suddenly character in wood, says Kate, who also runs the companys popular Instagram account (@raw
clicked. Thats when Heide restorations). Its fun to give it a second life. Prices vary; rawrestorations.com. Jess Chamberlain
came up with the idea behind
Concrete Cat, where he devel-
oped a coloration process
that borrows techniques from
paper marbling. The result: a
mesmerizing array of one-off
An alpine-style getaway in New Mexico
tiles, bowls, vases, bookends, Next month, the 80-room Blake
BEST at Taos Ski Valleythe first major
and custom projects in dreamy, HIDEOUT building in the base area in two
on-trend patterns. Heide is decadesopens with ski-in/ski-out
also beginning to experiment access and refined resort ameni-
ties, including a state-of-the-art spa. But its the
with deeper shades. Im ex- design details celebrating northern New Mexico
cited about rich jewel tones culture that truly set it apart: Navajo textiles,
BOTTOM RIGHT: KURT SCHMIDT
right now. The late 70s and vintage photographs by ski racer and National
Geographic lensman Dick Durrance, and a cus-
early 80s were a good tom desk inspired by the moccasins worn by
source of color: browns, tans, Taos Pueblo Native Americans. A gallery dedi-
gold, maroon, navy blue, cated to Ernie Blake, the visionary founder of
the valley, ensures that the character of this be-
green. I want to do it all. con loved ski resort remains true to iconoclastic
cretecat.com. Chantal Lamers form. From $249; skitaos.com.
12 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
Your one-stop shop
BEST
COOLDOWN
THE
HEALTHY
DESSERT
WERE
CRAVING
NOW
January might be an odd time to
have ice cream on the brain, but
the vegan frozen concoctions from
just-launched Seattle company
Frankie & Jos are a guilt-free way
to stick to your New Years
resolutions. Made by hand, the
dairy- and gluten-freebut
flavor-richrecipes feature a
sprouted-cashew and coconut-milk
base, natural sweeteners like
dates, and creatively good-for-you
ingredients. The Gingered Golden
Milk has fresh turmeric and ginger
root, both anti-inflammatories;
the Salted Caramel Ash contains
activated charcoal, which acts as
a purifier, removing toxins from the
FROM LEFT: BROOKE FITTS, JACK GUY (3)
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 13
WE GROW
ALMONDS
AND A WHOLE
LOT MORE.
Almond farmers in California
grow more than a food thats
rich in nutrition.
BEST
REFRESH
BRING THE GARDEN INDOORS
High on our list of dreamy winter escapes: the updated solarium at Portlands Pistils
Nursery. Were inspired to turn a sunny corner at home into our own version of this
green retreatstarting with the perfect woven basket and a cork-mounted philoden-
dron. pistilsnursery.com.
vining cork
mount,
from $34
beaded
beach- hagemann
comber botanical
Basket, oak print
$46 chart, $180
CAN - DO
IN EVERY CRUNCH
Whatever you take on, take it on with almonds.
Get 6g of energy-giving protein and 4g of hunger-
slaying ber to really bring it all day, every day.
C D
H
F
P ROF I LE
THE CHANGE
MAKER
For TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie,
seeing the world was what inspired
him to do better in it. By
PROP STYLING: JONI NOE; GROOMING: MIA BAKER KESSLER; PROP SOURCING: STERLING SOCIAL
Melissa Goldstein
Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 17
Travel
18 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
I think that more
and more
people are looking to
have meaningful
experiences in travel.
BLAKE MYCOSKIE
Travel
20 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
THE YEARS
BIGGEST
BREAKOUT
TV STAR
www.people.com/PEN
Copyright 2016 Time Inc. All rights reserved.
Travel
TA KE ME
THERE
POWDER PLAY
Not a fan of hard snow, long lift lines, and drafty lodges? Well, get ready:
The new and improved ski day is about to knock your socks off.
ITS THAT TIME of year when a line is drawn in the snow. On one side better way. While youve stayed away, ski resorts have been upping
are the powderhounds who stockpile gear and bank PTO days wait- their game, from adopting new snowmaking technologies to ex-
MELISSA GAYLE
ing for the next dump. On the other side, the rest of us. Weve sat in panding their aprs scene beyond buffalo wings. Today the snow is
the traffic jams, slept in the cheesy chalets, and shivered our butts better, the terrain is endless, and the base camps are badass. Make
off, all in the name of fun. No more. Were here to tell you theres a this the year you cross the line and call yourself a skier.
22 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
OWN A MOMENT IN TIME.
100
3+272*5$3+6
BUY THE BOOK | shop.time.com/100photos
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Travel
BLACKCOMB WHISTLER
3,414 4,757
acres acres
Whistler Blackcomb:
8,171 acres
There was a time, if you can imagine it, when we waited for nature to
buffer. During the 1920s, the first ski resorts in the country relied on
SQUAW VALLEY ALPINE MEADOWS natural falling snow to blanket their mountains. Which worked out
3,600 2,400
acres acres great when the flakes were flying but, in between storms, the slopes
were often an icy-patchy-melty mess. We now live in a world where
high-powered guns launch pristine powder 100 feet into the airin July.
And state-of-the-art grooming machines prowl the mountain, turning
Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows: todays ice into tomorrows corduroy while we sleep. Todays snow is
6,000 acres better, more abundant, and like everything else in our lives, on-demand.
Are we spoiled? Probably. Does it feel good? Judge for yourself at these
BRAGGING RIGHTS The Squallywood pub
crawl. Start with a pint at Le Chamois and top flake-making mountains.
finish at Umbrella Bar, the countrys only
mountaintop bar with a pool and hot tub.
Sun Valley, Diamond Peak, Boreal Mountain,
Idaho Nevada California
24 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
PLAY
Squaw Valleys Amid pine beams and throw- Utahs Solitude Mountain lets
take on dinner back photos at Whitefishs you snowshoe through lantern-lit
and a movie Cafe Kandahar, the James pines to dinnerin a Mongolian
EAT stars a four- Beardnominated chef serves yurt!Inside,finddelicacieslikeespresso-
course meal, kill- dishes like elk carpaccio and crusted rack of lamb and maple
er cocktails, and beanbags for forest-mushroom gratin. $$$$; bourbon pots de crme. $130 ;
kids. From $59; squawalpine.com. cafekandahar.com. skisolitude.com.
This winter, Mt. Hoods old-school Perched high in the At Idahos Schweitzer, Schpring
Timberline Lodge unveils YBar, Wasatch, The St. Finale means music, beer tastings,
a pub redone by the designers of Regis Deer Valley and a Cardboard Derby. Suit up,
RAGE the space-age Seattle W. Roll-up slings elevated cocktails, like the make a tobog-
doors open onto a deck, where 7452 Mary, a Bloody made with gan, and join the
you can sip from a river of local local vodka distilled at 7,000 feet. fun. Apr 89;
beer. $$; timberlinelodge.com. $$$$; stregisdeervalley.com. schweitzer.com.
Glide to the slopes without hit- Dont you dare call it Find Zen atop
ting one traffic light on Den- a hot tub: The 85 Aspen Moun-
vers newly resurrected ski pool at Alaskas Aly- tain, where a
CHILL train. Plush railcars whisk you eska Resort is set yogi leads sun
to Winter Park from Union under beamed ceil- salutations in the
Station. From $39 one way; am ings, surrounded by epic views. resorts window-walled Sundeck.
trak.com/winterparkexpress. From $139; alyeskaresort.com. $5; aspensnowmass.com.
BYO rig, and luxe Overstuffed chairs, roaring Three words: bourbon
new Angel Fire RV fireplaces, cross-country body scrub. Four Sea-
Resort provides the trails outside your door. Little sons Vail dishes up de-
CRASH clubhouse, hot tub, has changed at Mammoth lights, from pocket-size
and weekly wine and Lakes Tamarack Lodge. bacon treats to an aprs
cheese tastings. From $59; angel And thats just fine with us. whiskey cart. From
firervresort.com. From $99; tamaracklodge.com. $619; fourseasons.com/vail.
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: BRYCE BOYER, AUBREE DALLAS, DON RIDDLE
olympic Q&A
veteran
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 25
Travel
GEAR
BETTER, WARMER
No more clunky coats and rickety skis to muck up your mountain fantasy. Todays gear is engineered for
maximum performance, while keeping you warm from nose to toes.
Your tush
Nothing can ruin your run quicker
Your core Your new skis than an ice-cold lift chair. The spe-
Made from 100 percent merino With an hourglass shape, cially designed Womens Cheeky
wool, the REI Merino Midweight a lightweight core, and a tip Pants combat bum-freeze with an
base layer has the warmth of and tail curved like Elvis additional, removable pair of ther-
wool with the soft feel of a synthet- Presleys lips, the Rossignol mal shorts. $450 ; marmot.com.
ic. The top also wicks moisture, Soul 7 HD skis practically
keeping you dry until the sun sets. turn on their own. $850 ; By Jeremy Pugh, Megan McCrea,
$80 ; rei.com. rossignol.com. and Marie Salcido
Big Sky, Montana is your home for winter adventure. Everywhere you look, natures unspoiled beauty will surround you.
With over 5,800 acres of downhill terrain, youll see why Big Sky is the Biggest Skiing in America. Come out West for the best.
Head to BiggestSkiingInAmerica.com today.
Travel
TREND
UP IN THE AIR
Hoteliers are transforming guest rooms into treehouses, elevating ordinary
vacations into experiences filled with wonder. By Charyn Pfeuffer
YOU ARE IN A TREE . be careful. The sign at Washingtons Doe Guys, on which Doe Bays suite was featured).
Bay Resort & Retreat is a gentle reminder to watch your step Theres something playful, almost primal, about sleeping in the
in the hotels newest suite, a cottage-esque treehouse 18 feet above trees, says David Leventhal, the developer behind Playa Viva,
the ground. Being cradled by the forest as you sleep is something a beach resort south of Zihuatanejo, Mexico. The hotels creatively
few people forget, says River Augenstein, general manager of designed treehousean oval bamboo structure with a canopied
the Orcas Island resort. Like many other hoteliers around the king bed, open to Pacific breezesis a world away from those nail-
KEVIN STEELE
West, Augenstein added the rustic-luxe structure in response to and-2x4 home-builds of childhood. Yet as you climb the ladder up
the growing love for houses high up in the forest (theres even to it, you almost expect to see a different kind of sign: no adults
a DIY Network show dedicated to the topic, called The Treehouse allowed. Here are six of the Wests best new treetop digs.
28 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
Travel
the treehouse at bajas acre resort paddle up b.c.s sunshine coast from secret cove treehouse
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 31
See
inside from
anywhere.
The new Family Hub refrigerator
It has built-in cameras that take a photo
every time the doors close, so you always
know what you have and what youre missing.
Up a notch
CASSANDRA LaVALLE
TAKES THE HOME OFFICE
TO NEW HEIGHTS
p. 34
Photographs by D AV E L A U R I D S E N SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 33
Home & Garden
34 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
ADVERTISEMENT
Easiest
Resolution Ever
Make it simple to snack guilt-free this year with popcorn
from the kitchen of Cooking Light.
All
natural
35
CALORIE
PER CUP
Gluten
free
Air-popped
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Home & Garden
THE DETAILS
WO R K O U T T H E CHOOSE THE WRITE
S E AT I N G A structured S U R FAC E An old farm-
settee-style sofa takes house table was her
the place of the former dream, but because she
dressing-room chaise. needed a solid, even
That was more condu- workstation, LaValle opt-
cive to reading a book ed for the next best
or taking a napnot thing: a classic campaign
so good for working. desk redone in a warm
Leather loveseat, $3,322; wood. Desk, $229;
bdantiques.com. Metal worldmarket.com. Wish-
side table, from $295; bone chair, $314 ; atg
firstpickdesign.com. stores.com.
keep it
old-school
with an
inspiration
board
P L AY W I T H PAT - T H ROW S O M E
T E R N For one key wall, S H A D E I knew I wanted
LaValle selected wallpa- pattern for the Roman
per that echoed the tree- shades, but it had to
top views from her attic work with the bold wall-
perch. I wanted some- paper, LaValle explains.
thing that had an indoor- The solution: playful yet
outdoor feel, she says. discreet polka dots that
Makelike wallpaper in act as a classic comple-
Lush Light Grey, $200/ ment to the maximalist
roll; makelike.com. accent wall. The cotton-
linen fabric provides pri-
K E E P A L OW P RO - vacy while still allowing
F I L E Because of the low plenty of sunlight into the
ceiling and petite quar- room. Roman shades in
ters, LaValle decided Domino from the Kate
against putting up shelv- Spade Collection at The a white dresser
ing. Piling books on Shade Store ; theshade fits perfectly
a bench felt more stream- under the eaves
store.com. Leather
lined. Antique bench, campaign stool, $798 ;
bdantiques.com. serenaandlily.com.
36 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
Its tucked away from the rest of
the house, so I can close the door and
not see laundry in the corner.
C A S S A N D R A L aVA L L E
create an asymmetrical
gallery wall with
frames and mirrors
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 37
Home & Garden
designer jenna
wilson and
daughter adah
JENNA WILSON was immediately captivated by the 500-square-foot attic in her fami-
lys 1920s Craftsman in artsy Southeast Portland. She envisioned canvasing the plas-
ter walls with inspirational images for her textile-based clothing company, Ace&Jig
(aceandjig.com). But her two children, James, 8, and Adah, 6, called it first. My kids
immediately assumed this magical fairy house would be theirs, said Wilson. I had
to give it upthere are two of them and only one of me. With its low, pitched roof and
multiple nooks, the long, narrow room serves as the siblings sleeping quarters, cre-
ative retreat, and performance space (a series of ceiling hooks allow brightly colored the chalkboard
wall: a tried-and-true
patchwork curtains to hang down for playacting). It also gives Wilson a leg up on kid favorite
bedtime: The pitter-patter of small feet overhead is a giveaway theyre up to no good.
Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
THE
DETAILS
FA K E A RU G Wilson
purchased a large can-
vas drop cloth for $30
and let the kids loose
with paint. Textile paint
is the best to use because
its permanent, she
says. You can throw
the cloth in the washing
machine and not have
to worry about transfer.
D R E S S U P A WA L L
Adahs vintage dress-up
clothes are too beautiful
to hide behind closet
this nook doors. A row of hooks
doubles as helps keep them out on
a dress-up display; below them,
stage! knitting baskets are an
easy place for Adah to
toss accessories.
CORR AL THOSE
T OYS Almost every par-
ent knows that feeling:
the pinch of stepping on
a LEGO. Theres noth-
ing worse, says Wilson,
laughing. So when she
scored a vintage black
filing cabinet with 40-
something little drawers,
she knew it would make
the ideal storage unit
for organizing the tiny
pieces categorically.
A D D A C R A S H PA D
The attic is a popular
destination for cousins
PROP STYLING: MIKHAEL ROMAIN
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 39
Home & Garden
character-laden two-unit building with a friend, gutting and re- were a kid, she advises those searching for a design motif of their
modeling her attic for an additional 800 square feet of living space. own. Do what resonates with you. Pendleton Glacier National
The design for the attic started to fall into place two years ago Park blanket, from $199; pendleton-usa.com. Queen Bed Makeover
when boyfriend Gary L. Baker II moved in. He suggested moving bedding set in indigo and natural, $831; roughlinen.com. Nicole Myer
the bed closer to the wrought-iron staircase, freeing up the far side pillows, $95 each; theperishtrust.com. Helix light by Windy Chien, $225;
of the room for built-in bookshelves (made from redwood and birch) windychien.com. Eye art by Gary L. Baker II; andthenithought.com.
Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
this paneling
was made from
redwood fencing
Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
IDEA
GA R D E N
BOLD BEAUTY
From our new book, Succulents, comes a California
garden devoted to the low-water lookers.
WHEN LELAND AND MARIAN Zeidler moved to Aptos, California, they gave
landscape architect Steve Sutherland a creative challenge: to dream up a
garden that was like an extension of their modern home. His mind immedi-
ately went to succulents. They are the only plants dramatic enough to
stand up to that task, says Sutherland. They command attention.
To complement the homes graphic lines, the designer arranged pow-
dery blue agaves, icy blue senecios, and pinkish echeverias in blocks
around the property. Mass plantings within a very restrained palette
make for a more powerful design, says Sutherland. Ornamental grasses,
placed in equally wide ribbons, add a little softness.
Sutherland chose their plants for toughness as much as looks. All of them
are drought-resistant, can stand up against the salt and wind, andat the
homeowners requestrequire little main-
tenance. Neither Leland nor Marian
M A K E A M O D E R N STAT E M E N T
consider themselves gardeners, but the
Strong shapes and angles are
hallmarks of the garden, where landscape feeds their love of art. Leland
a row of Agave attenuata goes out nearly every day to check out the
Nova encircles the house. succulents, sometimes bringing their
A red metal sculpture by local
artist Kenneth Hepburn plays blooms inside as arrangements. After all, he
off the plants forms. says, Theyre as contemporary as it gets.
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 43
Home & Garden
Unique twist
design
Scrubbing
nubs
Taste
theyll
love
F I N D BA L A N C E I N C LU D E A FO CA L P O I N T
44 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
Big Heart Pet Brands.
Try our twist
on clean.
Clinically proven as
effective as brushing*
Patented twist bone
design with nubs & ridges
Helps clean hard-to-reach
back teeth
*When fed daily Milk-Bone Brushing Chews are as effective as brushing a dogs teeth twice a week based on the reduction of tartar build-up.
The Veterinary Oral Health Council recommends daily tooth brushing for optimal effectiveness. Big Heart Pet Brands. FMB004
Home & Garden
NORTHERN
C A LIF O R NIA
CHECKLIST
PLANT
Nurseries are stocked
with a wide selection of bare- Long-lasting aloe
root fruit trees this month. For blooms are winters
Northern California gardens, best ower.
the team at Dave Wilson Nurs-
ery suggests these: Sugar JOHANNA SILVER,
Twist, a pluerry (plum-cherry GARDEN EDITOR
cross), which has fruit that
hangs on the tree for four to six
weeks instead of dropping all then cut the previous years
at once; Tomcot apricot, which growth, making cuts above
has a late bloom time that outward-facing buds. Ideally,
makes its fruit production more the result is a V-shaped bush
reliable than other varieties ; or with a relatively open center.
the blight-resistant pear War- Remove foliage and place in
ren, a good substitute for the green bin to prevent disease.
familiar Bartlett. Shrub or floribunda roses (such
as Iceberg ) should be cut
Plant a fragrant white winter back by one-fourth to one-third.
bloomer. The vines Jasminum (Dont prune roses that bloom
polyanthum and Clematis arman- only once in spring now.)
dii will produce sweet blooms
in February if the winter is mild. Pick up fallen camellia blossoms.
Leaving them at the base of the
Set out bare-root strawberries shrub encourages disease.
in well-drained, acidic soil, 14
to 18 inches apart in mounded Clean moss off steps and path-
rows that are about 2 feet apart. ways with boiling water and
Reliable varieties include Chan- a stiff brush. Otherwise, it can
dler, Seascape, and Sequoia. make surfaces slippery.
IDEA WE LOVE
Refresh the vegetable garden Weeds can get out of control
by sowing seeds of broccoli,
cabbage, cauliflower, lettuces,
if neglected this month, but
theyre easy to pull from damp
New Year blooms
and mustard. Plant onion sets, soil. In particular, dont let As other plants go dormant for the winter, many succulents are
which look like small bulbs, just Oxalis pes-caprae, with its clover- still in their prime. Certain aloes, for instance, send up spectac-
under soil surface so the point shaped leaves and highlighter ular blooms that can brighten the garden while all other plants
of the bulb is visible. yellow blooms, take over. are snoozing. At the San Diego Botanic Garden, the Aloe Super
Red rises among shapely boulders, showing off its tall candles
MAINTAIN HARVEST of scarlet blooms. Other cool-season favorites include coral aloe
Prune hybrid tea and Pick ripened citrus as (A. striata), whose branched clusters of coral pink flowers last
grandiflora roses. Remove you need it. Leave unripe fruit from midwinter into spring, and mountain aloe (A. marlothii),
dead, diseased, crossing, or to hang; it wont get sweeter which sends up towering blooms ranging from golden yellow
badly placed branches first, once picked. to orange and red in fall and winter.
DAVID E. PERRY
CENTER AND
G E T TI N G
LOS T I N
JOSHUA TREE
THE
Trip By
Mickey Rapkin
Photographs By
Daniel Hennessy
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 49
On a blistering-hot October af-
ternoon in Flamingo Heights,
a desert community 20 miles
west of Joshua Tree National
Park, Claire Wadsworth is
flipping tables. Its Sunday
brunch at La Copine, the restaurant she owns with her wife, chef Nikki Hill. This
quaint, 42-seat spot would be easy to miss if not for the impressive crowd waiting
outside. La Copine sits on a secluded two-lane highway that seems to go on forever,
which makes it feel like a mirage. The sausage and English muffins are made in-house,
as is the fresh ricotta cheese. There are no reservations, Wadsworth says. No
phone, either. Sometimes we have to close because the power goes out.
pink jelly-fat pouring out of the fryer. But
the minute Nikki saw the walk-in fridge,
this smile came across her face. I knew right
then that that was it. We were going to move
to the desert.
What her wife was responding to wasnt
a hulking, stainless steel cooler as much as it
was the whiff of hope and possibility thats
been part of the DNA out here forever. Josh-
ua Tree, California, is still the Wild Westa
place where the couples modest honey-
moon fund stretched to a down payment on
the restaurant, and maybe on a new life. Call
it a revolution. Call them the next wave of
desert pilgrims. But theyre not alone. Josh-
ua Tree and its surrounding communities
Yucca Valley, Wonder Valley, Pioneertown,
Twentynine Palmsare luring todays cre-
ative class with a promise of a better life, a
place to think, cook, make, play, reboot.
Ive come out here to take the temperature
of the cool-kids-in-the-desert phenomenon.
And Ill admit, Ive brought a skeptical eye. I
booked a one-bedroom cabin on Airbnb thats
owned and operated by two fashion models
from L.A. The house is decorated with mid-
century furniture; on the bedside table sits a
copy of Desert Oracle, a local zine about desert
culture that includes an article about a leg-
endary Mojave phone booth. Naturally there
is an Airstream trailer next door, which is
also for rent. Its snake season, the home-
owner warns me by email, so please make
sure to keep the doors closed at all times so
you dont have any snakes wondering in the
house! That typo is sic. But it also captures
the spirit of the new Joshua Tree: wonder.
Over a plate of La Copines still-hot bei-
gnets, Jay Carrollwho spent five years at
the creative helm of the Levis Global Brand
The couple hadnt planned on opening a JAY AND ALISON CARROLL, concept team and looks the partshares his
restaurantor even leaving Los Angeles. PART OF A NEW GENERATION OF DESERT own path with me. I became obsessed with
PILGRIMS, AT THEIR OLIVE - OIL SHOP
But after getting married in 2015, they sud- IN WONDER VALLEY. PREVIOUS SPREAD : the appeal of the emptiness, says Jay. He
denly found themselves asking the Big SKYLINE STUDIOS, PIONEERTOWN. and his wife, Alison, had been looking for a
Questions. We went home and were like, weekend home in Joshua Tree in 2015 when
This is the life we made for ourselves? they decided to go all-in and make a perma-
Going back to the same jobs, the same apart- nent move. Theyre now producing a line of
ment? Then Hill (a veteran of Santa Moni- restaurant nearby was for sale. The building olive oil and home goods under the label
cas Huckleberry restaurant) and Wads- had a chain-link fence around it and Wonder Valley while renovating a 1950s
worth (a musician and teacher) were visiting appeared abandoned. When the newlyweds homestead cabin they tore down to the
friends in neighboring Pioneertown when, finally got a peek inside, Wadsworth recalls, studs. But their great life changeup was less
by chance, one of the locals mentioned that a Everything was caked in grease. There was about entrepreneurship than about lifestyle.
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 51
Says Alison: When you live in a city, you Attendance at Joshua Tree National Park The more desert transplants I spoke to,
sometimes think, Oh, Id love to wake up topped 2 million visitors for the first time in the more I thought about what my life might
and meditate and eat well and exercise and 2015, a spike some credit to Instagram and look like here. I would become someone
have the headspace to tackle this creative an influx of millennials. Kate and Laura who confidently wears cowboy hats. The
project. Out here you can do that. Mulleavy (the sisters behind fashion label long-shuttered Pioneertown bowling alley
The tradition of artists seeking inspira- Rodarte) have talked about Joshua Tree as was for sale. I imagined myself teaching
tion from the desert runs deep. In 1969, an inspiration for their designs. Solange tourist kids the art of keeping score the old-
Keith Richards, Gram Parsons, and Italian spent New Years Eve 2015 glamping in the fashioned waybut with tiny, bespoke pen-
actress-model Anita Pallenberg wandered desert, documenting her experience with cils made by a local artisan.
around Joshua Tree National Park taking the hashtag #turnupteepee. Outside of La Copine, Id met Peter
LSD and chasing UFOs. Dennis Hopper and Then theres Pioneertown. In the 1940s, Brooks, a Marine vet who works in water
Peter Fonda passed through on choppers Gene Autry and Roy Rogers built a Wild West conservation and was in the midst of a guys
while filming Easy Rider. Similarly inspired backlot here to make movies. These days, its weekend. He and his buddies were on their
by the open expanse, artist Noah Purifoy a hipster hangout. (Picture HBOs Westworld way home to do some recreational masonry.
(who founded the Watts Towers Art Center) populated by bearded young folk.) The old- He suggested I connect with his wife, Lily
relocated to the Mojave in 1989, where he timey post office is a popular spot for desert Stockman, co-owner of the textile firm
opened a 10-acre sculpture garden that feels selfies. But the big draw is Pappy & Harriets, Block Shop; the couple split their time
like something out of Mad Max: Fury Road. a local watering hole and music venue where
In 2000, artist Andrea Zittel traded her tiny indie bands like Panda Bear and The War on
Brooklyn studio for a 50-acre compound in Drugs have performed. When I arrive, the
Joshua Tree, where she later launched the town is still buzzing over Paul McCartneys RIGHT: MUSICIAN ROCCO GARDNER IN
ONE OF HIS AIRSTREAMS. BELOW:
nonprofit High Desert Test Sites, a lab for surprise show at Pappys for 300 fans lucky IN 2013, GARDNER OPENED SKYLINE STUDIOS
other artists to come create in. enough to get there in time. IN PIONEERTOWN.
couple of projects at High Desert Test Sites.
The two got serious and Dellinger, then 35,
felt ready to take the leap on all fronts. She
found a house in Flamingo Heights on a Sat-
urday, put an offer in on Sunday, and quit
her job on Monday to help launch a produc-
tion company out in the desert. (The experi-
ment is working. She recently produced
shoots for Urban Outfitters and GQ.)
Of her generation, she says: Were so
connected, it almost doesnt matter where
you are. Though part of what makes this
place tick is its proximity to L.A. If someone
needs to have a meeting with me this after-
noon, I could be there in two hours. She
likens the creative energy in Joshua Tree to
what she felt in Portland in the late 90s.
We have access to all this beauty and na-
ture. If we just want to go camping, we can
throw some sleeping bags in the back of the
truck and drive out to the dry lake bed.
I know what she means about the scenery.
On my second morning in town, Im driving
down Twentynine Palms Highway on my
way to check out Steve Haltermans studio,
which he runs out of a rehabbed 1950s gas
station that looks like an Ed Ruscha paint-
ing. I want to pull over and take a million
selfies with the massive rock boulders and
the mountains reaching up to a forever blue
between L.A. and Joshua Tree. In 2013 they Theres something about this generation
purchased a run-down homestead on 5 that wants to be in that environment, she
acres, drawn here largely for the communi- says. It scratches that itch for wilderness
ty of like-minded artists. and nature.
No one happens to end up in the desert, The Internet has made it possible for a
Stockman tells me. People are looking generation of creative self-starters to work
for space and timethe two greatest luxu- from anywhere. Genevieve Dellinger was in
ries of the modern age. She cites the com- Los Angeles producing photo shoots for a
petitive real estate market in the Bay Area big ad agency when she started dating the
and Los Angeles as a driving force behind artist Dan Andersonof the Portland-based
this great migration to the desert. But she collective Von Tundrawhod relocated to
believes theres also a cultural shift at work. Joshua Tree in 2012 after working on a
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 53
sky. I looked at the temperature on the car
dashboard. Its closing in on 85. Im remind-
ed: This land could swallow us whole.
Halterman isnt surprised by the influx.
Theres this idea that artists live in a urban
environment, he says, but thats only be-
cause urban environments were traditional-
ly cheap. His studio turns out to be its own
piece of art. He and his husband, Glen Stei-
gelman (previously an analyst at Xerox who
now dresses like an off-duty lumberjack),
had always imagined theyd retire to the des-
ert. But they made the move sooner when an
abandoned gas station in downtown Joshua
Tree went up for sale in 2011. The place was
a dump, but where others saw ruin, they
squinted and pictured a midcentury modern
clubhousewhere a surfboard hangs from
the ceiling and a vintage pinball machine
decorates one corner. Hozier and the Pixies
have both shot music videos here, which
doesnt surprise me. Neither does the news
that the couple run a quarterly members-
only party on their back patiowhich is
decorated with a yellow 1965 delivery truck
they dug out of a neighbors backyard and
restored to mint condition.
The desert is the last great opportunity.
Perhaps its always been that way. I met
Stephanie Smith, an architect who previ-
ously taught at Sci-Arc in Los Angeles
and moved to Joshua Tree permanently in
2010 when the economy crashed. In the
desert she met her partner, Jay Babcock, the
cofounder-editor of the now-defunct (but for-
ever hip) Arthur magazine. Together they run
JT Homesteader, a lifestyle brand with three
Airbnb rental cabins, including one painted
green in the 1950sthe original coat fading
beautifully over time into a patina Restora-
tion Hardware would kill to replicate. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE : little bit hungry, a little bit hard. A lot of
In the 1920s and the 1950s, Smith says, THE INTEGRATRON ; 1950S GAS STATION people come out here and think its cool.
TURNED ART STUDIO, THE STATION,
the federal government started giving CO - OWNED BY GLEN STEIGELMAN. Then a year in theyre like, This is the hard-
away 5-acre parcels of land to anyone who est place Ive ever lived. It toughens you up
could homestead them. The pitch was sim- to do better work. To think bigger.
ple: Build a small cabin, work the land, and Another idea emerges: Lost in all the talk
make a life for yourself. Smith runs a sell drought-tolerant fruit from local jujube about how home-share websites like Airbnb
monthly artists salon out of one of her sev- trees and apple cactus. are ruining communities and turning
en properties, but shes already prepping I ask her what, besides the cheap real es- homes into party houses is another side of
her next move: Sunever Farms, a desert or- tate, keeps her here: The desert has always the coin. It sounds like spin, but (gulp) may-
chard shes cultivating on a 20-acre plot had this mystery of the other. Its not quite be these sites really are giving artists a way
where shell open a farmstand in 2017 and safe. Youre always on edge. Youre staying a to make cash so they can pursue their (gulp
54 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
again) dreams. The Web is flooded with
Joshua Tree prospectors whove hung a few
succulents, bought some chic linens, and
marketed themselves to tourists. Most of
the guests are chill. But the specter of noisy
weekend-party palaces lingers as festivals
like the alt-rock Desert Daze become more
popular. In February 2017, Joshua Tree will
welcome Desert & Denim, the third-annual
trade show for artisans. Lily Stockman ad-
mits shes as guilty as anyone of hyping the
cult of Joshua Tree. But clarifies: Its easy to
be romanced by the Airbnb/macram/Pap-
py & Harriets Saturday night/Coachella
thing. But this is not a glamorous place. Its
one of the poorest parts of the poorest coun-
ties in the state.
In downtown Joshua Tree, run-down
storefronts coexist with a pour-over coffee
joint that roasts its own beans and a vege-
tarian breakfast place, where the line
stretches out the door. But its not exactly
Williamsburg. I watched a football game at
the JT Saloon on a Sunday night. The
cheeseburger was delicious, and if the meat
was grass-fed, nobody was talking about it.
As Dellinger told me: The desert looks
really good on Instagram, but people get
here and theyre like, What is there to do? I
think that is the big surprise, that its actu-
ally pretty sleepy.
Andrea Zittel echoes that point, telling T H E D E S E RT HA S
me: Joshua Tree is such a beautiful, inter-
esting, and profoundly complicated place.
People like to romanticize the desert, but its
also a very politicized landscape. Right now
A LWAYS HA D
there is a massive rush to use our area for
large solar and wind-farm developments.
And I can see the largest Marine base in the
TH IS MYS TERY OF
country from my studio; when they run ar-
tillery target practice, it shakes the entire
house, sometimes for days. But while many THE OTHER .
things about this area are quickly changing,
I still feel a sense of huge potential here.
There is something unique to Joshua Tree
that cannot be co-opted: its undeniable spir-
ituality. Thats part of what drew Rocco
Gardner to Pioneertown. The London-born
musician and entrepreneur purchased a
ranch in 2013 and converted it into a record-
ing studio (where Grammy-winning artists
have laid down tracks). His expansive prop-
erty has two goats, several fruit trees, and
three Airstream trailers, including a rare
1953 Cruisettethe smallest model the
company ever made. Gardner had been liv-
ing in New York, where he produced a mu-
sic festival on a Shinnecock Reservation.
I still love New York, Gardner says,
but it had gotten to a point where if you
want to do anything creative, it has to be
paid for. You either have to raise money or
find someone to sponsor you. In the desert,
you can build something yourself. He re-
calls that first night he spent on the seclud-
ed property a mile from Pappy & Harriets,
but a world away. I looked out at the moun-
tains and I had a conversation with them,
he says. I said, Please take care of me. It was
a really important moment for me.
Id never talked to mountains before. But if
I was going to start, Id need to visit The Inte-
gratron, a domelike structure in nearby
Landers that allegedly has healing powers.
Visitors come from all over the world for an
hourlong sound bath, which is said to am-
plify the thoughts you put out into the uni-
verse. Others have called this place a time
machine. Im not sure about that, but I will
56 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
LEFT: JAY BABCOCK AND consider themselves stewards of Van Tas- FBI closed the accounts of the would-be
STEPHANIE SMITH OF JT HOMESTEADER. sels vision for the property. I asked Nancy buyerwho was apparently under investi-
ABOVE : RETRO COT TAGE RENTALS FROM
THE 1950S. Karl whether she believed in aliens. There gation for fraudand the deal fell through.
was a pause. I believe George believed, With the help of two well-funded friends,
she said. Fair enough. the Karl sisters bought the building and re-
The first time I visited, she continued, stored it to its former glory. Some 15,000
say this: I stopped in the gift shop and found it felt like somebody just lifted the lid off people now visit annually.
a series of gemstones for sale. The rocks had the top of our heads. Finally we could Spiritual beliefs aside, the acoustics in the
been charged in the Integratron, and the breathe. These sisters are not kooks. Nan- Integratron are stunning; 30 of us lay down
shopkeeper explained the purported powers cy worked for CNET as an associate vice on rugs and closed our eyes for our sound
of each, telling me to reach for the crystal that president of marketing before moving to the bath. We focused on our breath as a man
spoke to me. Sort of like how, in Harry Potter, desert. Her sister, Joanne, was a cardiac played crystal bowls that rang out. Chakras
the wand chooses you. I picked up a $35 pink nurse. The building had come up for sale in opened, or whatever. The way the dome is
amethyst rock and my head started to throb. 2000, but the Karl sisters didnt have the constructed, its like taking a nap inside a
Like, serious intense vibrations. I asked the money. They were so distraught over the gigantic cello.
girl next to me what drew her to the Integra- thought of it falling into less-than-spiritual Maybe the desert really is magic. Claire
tron that day and her answer was: Good hands that they traveled to the building to Wadsworth from La Copine certainly
vibes and high fives. meditate on the solution. thinks so. Thats the other thing about the
The Integratron is its own unbelievable We said, This cant happen. If this is desert that I really love, she says. Be care-
reboot story. The inventor, George Van Tas- meant to be available for the publicif we ful what you wish for out here because it
sel (a former aeronautical engineer who are meant to be stewards herethen we comes true. Wadsworth tells me she re-
worked with Howard Hughes), built the need some serious magic. So we put our cently asked the universe for a piano for the
dome in 1957, claiming that aliens from Ve- hands together, bowed our heads, and we restaurant. Twenty-four hours later, one
nus took him aboard their ship and gave prayed. All of a sudden, this giant dust showed up on their doorstep.
him the instructions for the building. The storm starts whirling and whirling. It comes
Karl sisterswhod grown up in New York across the property and it blows the lid off
DIGITAL BONUS Live like a local at
and first visited the Integratron in the the top of the building. Its a crazy story. these Joshua Tree rentals: sunset.com/
80spurchased the property in 2000 and The day before the close of escrow, the socaldesertrentals.
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 57
58 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
The desert done right
YOUR G UI DE TO G E T TI NG RO OTE D I N J OS H UA T RE E
Where to rest
your head
Family-owned for five generations,
29 Palms Inn embraces its desert
roots with nine historic adobes
and four wood-framed cabins out-
fitted with mission-style furnishings,
hammock-bedecked patios, and
desertscapes by local painter
Dean MacKenzie. Add weekend
yoga, free nature walks, and a
poolside restaurant, and youve
Five ways to live the Shhh, listen Spin a yarn got yourself a vacation. From
desert dream What, exactly, is a sound bath? The Hi-Desert Cultural Center $175; 29palmsinn.com.
Youll find out at The Integra- has been showcasing performing
Make your mark tron, the New Agey structure arts for a half-century. With up- Make like the pioneers at one of
Sisters Lily and Hopie Stockman thats drawn everyone from An- dates this year (plush new seats, JT Homesteaders three restored
honed their textile skills under thony Bourdain to Jason Mraz Swarovski chandeliers, and cabin rentals, built in the 1950s
master block printers in India. At looking to untap its restorative, state-of-the-art lighting), the but ushered into the 21st century
Block Shop, they teach future and some say supernatural, pow- interior now matches the cutting- with modern kitchens, outdoor
makers how to coax brilliant colors ers. An hourlong session under edge acts that take its stage. Dont showers, and Wi-Fi so you can
from everyday plants. The week- the 28-foot-high domed ceiling miss the 10th annual Desert Sto- stay comfy and connected even
end workshops kick off with sunset will melt you into a meditative ries, a storytelling roundup with though the closest neighbor is a
margaritas by the bonfire and fin- state, as earthly stressors drift past performances by everyone mile away. Starting in March,
ish with a farm-to-table lunch pre- away to the echoing vibration of from songwriter Eric Burdon to lo- owners Stephanie and Jay will
pared by local hot spot La Copine. music played on a set of crystal cal war veterans. Jan 28; hidesert host farm dinners on their proper-
Expect to walk away with two self- bowls. From $25; by appoint- culturalcenter.org. ty, with menus highlighting native
made silk scarves. From $350; ment only; integratron.com. edibles like prickly pear and aga-
blockshoptextiles.com. Turn on the night ve, all gussied up by guest chefs.
Anyone with an iPhone can snap From $79; jthomesteader.com.
Get bent off a cactus masterpiece
You cant swing a sarong in Josh- during the day! To capture the If a sleeping bag and tent arent
ua Tree without hitting a yoga in- deserts haunting moonscapes your scene, the Mojave Sands
structor. But if that yogi happens and stellar celestials, sign up for is worth the upgrade. The five-
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SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 59
GAME
PLAN T H E S E F L AVO R F U L , M A K E - A H E A D
V EG ETA R I A N R EC I P E S A R E YO U R PAT H TO
H E A LT H Y - E AT I N G S U C C E S S .
By Charity Ferreira
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 61
WEEKEND
PLAN
COOK BIG
BATCHES NO. 1 NO. 2
OF
CHICKPEAS BROWN RICE
HERBED CHICKPEAS VARIATION
BROWN BASMATI COCONUT RICE
MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS / 2 HOURS SUMAC HUMMUS MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS / 1 HOUR
Cooked dried chickpeas have a firmer MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS / 10 MINUTES Like all types of brown rice, each grain of
texture and better flavor than canned, so Just before serving, swirl in another 1/2 tsp. brown basmati retains its nutritious bran
its worth the time to make a lot. Choose sumac, for a little hit of freshness. Drain and germ. The gentle sweetness of this rice
plump-looking dried beanstheyll cook 2 cups Herbed Chickpeas, reserving 1/2 cup comes from unrefined coconut oil, which is
faster than more shriveled ones. Use these liquid and discarding bay leaves, and put in rich in antioxidants. Use this rice as a base
chickpeas in soups, salads, and pastas a food processor. Add 1/4 cup each chickpea for saucy Middle Eastern or Indian dishes,
anyplace youd use canned chickpeas. liquid and water, 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive including curries; in pilafs; and in soups.
oil, 2 tbsp. tahini, 1 tsp. sumac, 1 tsp. fine
sea salt, 2 tbsp. lime juice, and 1 chopped
2 cups dried chickpeas 2 cups brown basmati rice
garlic clove and whirl until smooth, scrap-
2 bay leaves 11 2 tbsp. unrefined virgin coconut oil*
ing sides of bowl periodically, about 2 min-
4 or 5 large sprigs fresh thyme or 1 tsp. fine sea salt
1 2 tsp. dried thyme
utes. Add more chickpea liquid if you like
your hummus looser and creamier.
About 1 tsp. fine sea salt 1. Put rice, oil, salt, and 1 qt. water in a 6- to
PER TBSP. 34 Cal., 53% (18 Cal.) from fat; 1.1 g protein; 8-qt. pot. Bring to a boil, covered. Reduce
2.1 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 3.1 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 68 mg
1. Rinse chickpeas and discard any grit or sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG heat to low, and simmer, covered, until
debris. Soak overnight in water to cover most of the water is absorbed and grains
to reduce cooking time (depending on VARIATION
are tender, about 45 minutes. If not quite
age of beans, this can shorten the time by tender, add 1/4 cup water.
an hour). If you do, drain chickpeas SAFFRON TOMATO CHICKPEAS 2. Remove from heat and let stand 10
before proceeding. Put in a large pot with MAKES 6 CUPS / 1 HOUR minutes, covered, to steam. Fluff with
bay leaves and thyme and add enough Drain 1 batch Herbed Chickpeas, reserving a fork, then serve.
water to cover by 1 in. liquid, and put chickpeas back in pot with
*Find unrefined virgin coconut oil at well-
2. Bring to a boil over high heat, covered, 3 cups liquid (a surprising amount of liquid
stocked grocery stores.
and let boil 5 minutes, partially covered. will get absorbed as the chickpeas cool).
Reduce heat to low, cover fully, and Grind 1/2 tsp. saffron threads to a coarse PER 1 2-CUP SERVING 120 Cal., 20% (24 Cal.) from fat;
powder in a spice grinder; set aside. Heat 2.5 g protein; 2.8 g fat (1.7 g sat.); 23 g carbo (1.4 g fiber);
simmer until tender, 11/2 to 2 1/2 hours, 129 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. VG
adding more hot water as needed to keep 2 tbsp. vegetable oil in a medium frying
chickpeas covered by about 1 in. When pan over medium-high heat, add 1/2 cup
diced onion and cook, stirring often, until VARIATION
tender, stir in salt. If not serving right
away, let cool in cooking liquid (youll softened and beginning to brown, 3 to SPICED BROWN BASMATI
5 minutes. Stir in 1 tsp. each ground cumin
need some of it for Saffron Tomato Chick-
peas or Sumac Hummus, both at right). and ground coriander and sizzle, stirring, COCONUT RICE
30 seconds. Stir in 3 minced garlic cloves, MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS / 10 MINUTES
PER 1 2-CUP SERVING 129 Cal., 14% (18 Cal.) from fat; reserved saffron, and 1 tsp. fine sea salt, In a small pot, heat 1 tbsp. vegetable oil.
7.2 g protein; 2 g fat (0 g sat.); 22 g carbo (6.5 g fiber); In a small bowl, mix together 1/4 tsp. each
160 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG then pour into chickpeas. Add 11/2 cups
canned crushed tomatoes to chickpeas, ground cardamom, allspice, turmeric,
stir, and simmer, covered, 10 minutes to and red chile flakes with a pinch of
meld flavors. ground cloves. Stir into hot oil and sizzle,
stirring, 5 seconds to release flavors; then
PER 1 2-CUP SERVING 142 Cal., 25% (36 Cal.) from fat; scrape into 1 recipe hot Brown Basmati
6.7 g protein; 4.2 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 21 g carbo
(6.2 g fiber); 3.3 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/VG Coconut Rice (above) and stir well to mix.
PER 1 2-CUP SERVING 131 Cal., 26% (34 Cal.) from fat;
2.5 g protein; 4 g fat (1.9 g sat.); 23 g carbo (1.4 g fiber);
129 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG
NO. 3 NO. 4 NO. 5
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion 1 tsp. fine sea salt 2 small red kuri or kabocha squash (4 to 5
(about 1 2 medium) lbs. total) or 3 delicata squash (3 lbs. total)
2 cups freekeh (roasted green wheat)* 1. Tear kale leaves from stems, keeping 1 3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
31 2 cups vegetable broth, homemade thin (1/4 in.) ribbons. 2 tbsp. tahini
(see headnote above) or store-bought 2. Heat oil in a large wide pot over About 1 tsp. fine sea salt
2 tsp. lemon juice medium-low heat. Add shallots and
1 3 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
cook, stirring, until just beginning to 1. Preheat oven to 425. If using kuri
brown, 3 to 5 minutes. or kabocha squash, pierce squash in a
1. Heat oil in a 4- to 6-qt. pot over medium- 3. Add kale ribbons and salt. Cook over couple of spots with a knife or skewer
high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring medium-high heat, turning often with and microwave 4 minutes to soften. Cut
often, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir tongs, until kale is just wilted but still squash into quarters and slice off stem.
in freekeh, dukkah, and salt. bright green, 4 to 7 minutes (if youre If using delicata, cut in half lengthwise.
2. Add the broth and bring to a simmer. cooking it to store, keep it slightly For all types, scrape out seeds and
Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until crunchy, since it will soften when membranes with a big spoon, then cut
liquid is absorbed and the grains are you reheat). Serve warm or at room into 3/4-in. slices.
tender, 25 to 35 minutes (if using farro, temperature. 2. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with
drain off excess broth and save it for parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk
PER 1 2-CUP SERVING 93 Cal., 65% (60 Cal.) from fat;
soup, if you like). Remove from heat and 0.5 g protein; 7 g fat (1 g sat.); 7.1 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); oil, honey, lime juice, tahini, and salt
let steam, covered, 10 minutes; then stir 147 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG together to create a glaze. Put squash in
in lemon juice, parsley, and salt to taste. bowl and turn to coat well. Spread squash
*Find both freekeh and dukkah, an Egyptian pieces in a single layer on baking sheets,
spice blend, at well-stocked grocery stores, drizzle with a few tbsp. of remaining
Middle Eastern markets, and online. To make glaze, and cover baking sheets with foil.
your own dukkah, blend 1/4 tsp. each sesame 3. Roast squash 20 minutes, then remove
seeds, ground coriander and cumin, dried foil and turn pieces over. Return to oven
thyme, and finely chopped roasted hazelnuts. and roast, uncovered, until squash is
nicely browned, 10 to 15 minutes more.
PER 1 2-CUP SERVING 142 Cal., 22% (31 Cal.) from fat;
4.7 g protein; 3.6 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 23 g carbo (5.4 g fiber); Season with salt to taste.
315 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. LC/V
PER 1-CUP SERVING 170 Cal., 57% (97 Cal.) from fat;
2.1 g protein; 11 g fat (1.6 g sat.); 18 g carbo (1.6 g fiber);
192 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/V
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 63
WEEKNIGHT
PLAN
MAKE DINNER
IN A SNAP
SUMAC HUMMUS
WITH
KALE RIBBONS
AND
ROASTED
DELICATA SQUASH
Spread Sumac Hummus across a plate
and top with a mound of Kale Ribbons
and slices of Roasted Delicata Squash
with Honey, Tahini, and Lime. Drizzle
with extra-virgin olive oil, then sprinkle
with crumbled feta cheese, toasted
pine nuts, and pomegranate seeds. Serve
with warm pita bread or lavash.
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 65
SAFFRON
TOMATO CHICKPEAS,
FREEKEH,
AND
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Spoon Saffron Tomato Chickpeas and
Freekeh with Parsley and Onions into a
bowl. Top with thinly sliced brussels
sprouts (seasoned with lemon juice, fine sea
salt, and turbinado sugar), plain yogurt,
and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Season
brussels sprouts and yogurt with fine sea
salt and a pinch or two of dukkah.
66 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
SWEET
Use any Asian chili paste or sauce you have in your refrigerator to give
this rice bowl a touch of salty heat, including sambal oelek, garlic chili
sauce, or even Sriracha chili sauce.
AND Fry thinly sliced shallots in unrefined virgin coconut oil or vegetable
oil until brown, then sprinkle with salt.
SPICY RED KURI Spoon Spiced Brown Basmati Coconut Rice into bowls and top with
cut-up slices of Roasted Red Kuri Squash, a drizzle of Asian chili sauce
SQUASH BOWL (such as Mae Ploy), fried shallots, and toasted unsweetened coconut
flakes. Squeeze a lime wedge over the bowl and serve.
FREEKEH TABBOULEH
Make the vinaigrette: In a bowl, whisk
together 2 tbsp. each lemon juice and extra-
virgin olive oil, 1 tsp. fine sea salt, and
1/4 tsp. pepper. In a serving bowl, toss 1 cup
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 69
T I N Y
HOME
B I G
DREAMS
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 71
Two years ago, as Natasha Lawyer and her hus-
band, Brett Bashaw, wrapped up a six-month
road trip, they found themselves dreading
the return to their old life in Seattleto put it mildly. The idea of com-
ing back and all our money going to rent pissed me off, says Lawyer, a
freelance illustrator. Plus, after living out of a VW bus as they criss-
crossed the country, they had proof that they could live lightly. We
learned we didnt need all the stuff we thought we did.
So the couple found new digs: a 1971 Airstream they purchased for
$4,600 and set up in an RV park just outside of Seattle. We werent in
a position to buy a house in the city, says Bashaw, a special-needs edu-
cator. An Airstream was a way to have something of our own.
Compared to the 40-square-foot van, the 200-square-foot trailer
was downright luxurious. But it was essentially a tin shell, without
plumbing, electricity, or walls. The first two months were devoted to
taking care of the basicswaterproof-
ing, painting, installing flooring, and
more. Natasha did pretty much all of FIND HIDING SPOTS
it, says Bashaw. Im not a fix-it guy. Lawyer constructed a ply-
Im just her assistant. (Lawyers fa- wood daybed doubling
ther, a master electrician and carpen- as storage. A twin-size
mattress pops off easily.
ter, also offered guidance.) Striped Valpo twin day-
The couple moved in as soon as the bed mattress, $498;
Airstream was livable and made the anthropologie.com.
rest of the updates incrementally, in-
BRIGHTEN UP
vesting what they would have spent in
rent each month. There was an order One of the worst things
about traditional RVs
of operations, says Lawyer. Every is all the dark wood,
time we got paid, we considered, What says Lawyer. The couple
will improve our quality of life right brought airiness to their
space by sticking to light
now? Some essentialsa sink, a wood, and they opened
stovewere obvious priorities, while up the interior by eliminat-
others were motivated by the arrival of ing the overhead bins typi-
cal of Airstreams (which
visitors: We put in the daybed when also made it more com-
my mom was coming to visit, says fortable for Bashaw, who
Lawyer. And when a friend wanted to is 6'2"). Threshold Mid-
century Collection desk
stay with us, we decided we needed a lamps (similar), $30
bedroom door. each; target.com. Triangle
Along the way, the couple came shelf, 18 in., $38; the
smallandsavagewild.com.
up with smart storage solutions, which
range from a hidden compartment EDIT, EDIT, EDIT
to stow camping gear, to a laundry
Lawyer trimmed her book
hamper built into a bedside table. and art-supply collections
The decor that has taken shape is a so they would fit on the
Scandinavian-leaning mix of white, shelves beneath the TV.
She plans to attach a
wood, and brass. Mostly we decorate hinged sheet of brass to
with really good kitchenware and the front of the shelf that
lots of plants, says Lawyer. Still, lots can lift up to turn it into
a dining table. Threshold
is an understatement: At last count, six-cube organizer shelf,
there were 63 potted plants around $60; target.com.
72 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
We love that we have
the choice
to live differently.
NATASHA L AW YER
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 73
COOK UP A PL AN vinegar bottle works the home with utilitari- lamp, $20; ikea.com. cover set in dark Lawyer made of
just as well as a roll- an items. In the kitch- Plants and containers, gray, $129; hm.com. pipe and plywood,
To keep the kitchen ing pin). Dansk Ko- en, she uses a metal skynursery.com. Holmes sconce, is evidence that the
(above) streamlined, benstyle cookware, towel rack to hang $119; schoolhouse couple still arent strict
the couple whittled from $39; amazon. tea towels and tools. electric.com. minimalists. Were
STICK TO A PALET TE
down its features, opt- com. Udry drying mat She also installed not interested in that
ing for a stovetop in Charcoal, $15; open shelves in a A tight color story SET LIMITS capsule wardrobe
but forgoing an oven, umbra.com. Knodd corner of the kitchen makes a small space WITHIN REASON idea, says Lawyer.
and choosing cook- bin with lid, $15; and the bathroom more harmonious, Were interested
ware that stacks. ikea.com. (opposite, top right) says Lawyer, who A jam-packed clothing in making it work
With space for uten- to display pretty little sticks with black, rack at the foot of with our space, while
sils at a premium, vignettes of dishes white, and gray the bed (opposite, being able to express
FIND BEAUT Y IN
theyve gotten used THE EVERYDAY and plants. Copper throughout the kitch- bottom right), which ourselves.
to being creative towel bar, from $80; en, living space,
cooks (Lawyer recent- Without a lot of space brass S hooks, $20; and bedroom. Oppo- DIGITAL BONUS Discover more great storage
ly discovered, for for trinkets, Lawyer schoolhouselectric. site, bottom center: ideas and lessons in small-space style: sunset.
instance, that a decorates throughout com. Vitemlla wall Washed linen duvet com/smallhomes.
74 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
SHOW ME THE MONEY
AIRSTREAM TRADITIONAL
HOUSING COSTS
Median price of Lawyer and
a home in Seattle Bashaws Air-
(Oct 2016; stream (purchase
up 14 percent price plus
from 2015): renovations):
$594,600 $25,000
the home. They give us amazing air quality and a pop of color. The small footprint has paid off in unexpected ways, though. For
Greenery aside, the couple keep their possessions to a minimum. one, Lawyer and Bashaw spend more time outdoors, where their
They admit that downsizing was emotionally draining at first, but small deck serves as a dining space and home office. Theyve started
as they cleaned out their storage unit in preparation to move into the a container garden full of vegetables and succulents, and even have
Airstream, the process became liberating. It got to the point where a water view: the parks small lake, where geese and turtles mingle.
I wanted to throw out whole boxes, says Lawyer. Today, they try to It feels like were on vacation, says Bashaw. Theres nowhere else
abide by an in-and-out policy. If you want a new pair of shoes, you in Seattle we could pay what we do and have that kind of view.
PROP STYLING: JANNA LUFKIN
have to get rid of one, says Bashaw. While Lawyer and Bashaw can easily rattle off a dozen more rea-
And the couple chooses to do without in ways that many people sons they love their less-is-more lifestyle, they admit the Airstream
cant imagine. They dont have an oven, microwave, orsince they probably isnt their forever home. But thats also one of the best
had the option of using the parks shower facilitieshot water. things about itwere investing in something and were not going to
Thats the biggest thing: Not having a lot of space requires a lot of have to leave it, says Lawyer. If we want to go somewhere else, we
compromise, says Lawyer. can take it with us.
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 75
SAVE
20%!*
Use cod
2017e:
Diet deliciously.
A weight loss resolution
you can keep.
Get a customized diet plan based on your favorite foods with easy-to-follow
recipes developed by the nutrition and culinary experts at Cooking Light. We count
the calories and give you the shopping list so staying on track is easier than ever.
P E AK
SEASON
PEAR POWER
Put their juicy sweetness to work
in salad, dessert, and even
short ribs. By Charlotte
March
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN
Photographs by V I C T O R P R O TA S I O SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 77
Food & Drink
Winter
wonders
The Northwest is pear coun-
try: More than 80 percent of
the countrys crop is grown
there, including these six
standouts. To ripen, let pears
stand at room temperature;
when the neck yields to gen-
tle thumb pressure near the
stem, the fruit is ready to eat.
ANJOU
Mild, juicy, and dense, with a
subtle sweetness and green
or red skin. All-purpose fruit
for salads to desserts.
BOSC
Firm, dense, grainy flesh with
complex flavor and honeyed
sweetness. Holds its shape
cooked, but also good raw.
CONCORDE
Crisp, dense, and vanilla-
sweet. Slow to brown when
cut. All-purpose variety.
COMICE PEAR
1 8 tsp. nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
14 tsp. kosher salt
1 2 cup flour
CLAFOUTIS
SERVES 6 / 65 MINUTES, PLUS 15 MINUTES TO COOL
Powdered sugar
COMICE
Luscious and juicy. Lovely on
1. Preheat oven to 350. Butter a shallow 3-qt. cheese plates and in salads,
Somewhere between a custard and a pancake,
baking dish (about 10 by 11 in.) and arrange or baked if on the firmer side.
youll find clafoutis. This version of the classic
pears in an attractive pattern over the bottom.
French dessert, made with slightly floral Comice
(Fruit will rise to the top as batter bakes.)
pears, is best when the stem end of the pears
2. Put milk, eggs, granulated sugar, vanilla,
yields slightly to the touch, signaling that the
orange zest, nutmeg, salt, and flour (in this
fruit is flavorful but neither hard nor squishy. FORELLE
order) in a blender and whirl until very smooth Crisp, snack-size fruit
and frothy, 1 minute. Pour batter over pears. turns from green to yellow
Salted butter for the dish when ripe.
3. Bake until clafoutis is well browned and a little
2 firm-ripe Comice pears (1 lb. total), peeled,
puffed, about 50 minutes.
cored, and sliced lengthwise about 1 3 in. thick
4. Let clafoutis cool on a rack about 15 minutes.
1 cup whole milk
Serve warm, sprinkled with powdered sugar.
3 large eggs
1 3 cup plus 1 tbsp. granulated sugar PER SERVING 204 Cal., 21% (42 Cal.) from fat; 5.8 g protein; SECKEL
4.7 g fat (2 g sat.); 36 g carbo (2.5 g fiber); 122 mg sodium; Fist-size and exceptionally
11 2 tsp. vanilla extract sweet; excellent raw or
112 mg chol. LC/LS/V
1 tsp. orange zest poached. Elaine Johnson
78 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
RED PEAR
SALAD with
LEMON
PARMESAN
DRESSING
SERVES 4 (MAKES 2 QTS.) / 25 MINUTES
Imagine a cheese plate in salad form: sweet
Red dAnjou pears team up with sharp,
nutty parmesan. Though the red pears add
a pop of color, green ones work well too.
Save any extra dressing as a dip for raw
vegetables or to slather on bread.
BRAISED SHORT RIBS with PEAR, GINGER, and braise in oven 1 hour. Turn meat
over and cook until tender but not falling
apart, 45 minutes to 1 hour more.
80 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
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RES103354 11/16
Food & Drink
SECRETS
Andrea Nguyen cracks the
code of pho for the home cook.
By Margo True
EVERY SATURDAY, when Andrea Nguyen was
a little girl in Vietnam, her mother cooked
up a pot of the flavorful noodle soup known
as pho, charring onions and ginger, then
simmering meat and spices for hours. We
all have those smells that remind us of who
we are, and pho is that for me, she says.
These days, you can get pho in practically
any town in the West, but a great home-
cooked version is a world away. In Nguy-
ens upcoming The Pho Cookbook (Ten
Speed Press; $20), the James Beard Award
nominated author explores the history of
Vietnams national soup and offers scrupu-
lous recipes for beef, chicken, vegetarian,
and vegan pho, along with regional twists
and ways to use leftover broth and meat
(pho fried rice!). For her Fast and Fabulous
pho, she hit on a brilliant shortcut: Use a
pressure cooker to get authentic flavor in
about a third of the time.
Home-cooked or not, says Nguyen, pho
has the same irresistible appeal: Its brothy,
spicy, restorative, gluten-free Its comfort
food, yet its light. And its great for hang-
overs. What better food for the new year?
Soup-making staples
YOU CAN USE TOOLS YOU ALREADY HAVE, BUT THESE ITEMS ARE SO USEFUL THEYRE WORTH BUYING.
FIND THE SKIMMER, LADLE, AND STRAINER AT ASIAN MARKETS, AND THE MUSLIN AT FABRIC STORES.
A flat, fine-mesh skimmer (though youll want to leave a lit- and reused many times.
easily and quickly whisks the tle bit of fat for flavor). With its vertical handle, a noo-
scum from the top of the broth as For straining, lining a colander dle strainer holds noodles more
it simmers. with unbleached muslin ensures efficiently than a regular strainer
A simple metal soup ladle a clear broth. The material is as you dunk them into boiling wa-
with a thin rim scoops fat from the much sturdier and cheaper than ter. The bowl is just big enough to
top of the broth to keep it light cheesecloth, and can be washed contain one serving.
82 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
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Food & Drink
PRESSURE COOKER
CHICKEN PHO
SERVES 4 / 2 HOURS
Andrea Nguyen loves her 6-qt. Fagor Duo
pressure cooker ($67; amazon.com). Its
not too expensive, and its easy to useno
jiggling valves or dials. That said, you can
also make this recipe in a stockpot (see
method, opposite page); just allow more
time. If youre serving more than four peo-
ple, recruit some helpers to put together
the bowls, assembly-line style, so the soup
doesnt get cold.
BROTH TIP
1 whole chicken (4 lbs.)
1 rounded tbsp. coriander seeds Bruise the ginger by
3 whole cloves smacking it with the flat side
1 medium yellow onion, peeled, halved, and of your knife.
sliced 1 2 in. thick
3-in. piece ginger, peeled and thickly sliced
1 small Fuji apple, peeled, cored, and cut
into thumbnail-size chunks ginger and onion would be charred to the bowl too. Add cold water to
34 cup coarsely chopped cilantro sprigs directly on a burner. Ive found that cover, then soak 10 minutes to cool. Pour
About 214 tsp. fine sea salt this is the best shortcut to get that off water, partially cover chicken, and set
About 11 2 tbsp. fish sauce flavor, says Nguyen. aside to finish cooling.
About 1 tsp. organic sugar* or 2 tsp. maple 2. Add 4 cups water, then the chicken, 7. With a shallow ladle, skim most of fat
syrup, if needed to round out flavor breast side up. Add apple, cilantro, salt, from broth. Strain broth through a
and another 4 cups water. Having only muslin- or cheesecloth-lined strainer
BOWLS half the water in the pot when the into a medium pot, pressing to expel as
10 oz. dried narrow flat rice noodles* chicken goes in means you wont much broth as possible. Discard solids.
About half of cooked chicken from splash yourself. Lock the lid in place. Season broth with fish sauce, plus salt
the broth 3. Following your cookers instructions, and sugar to taste. Add fish sauce now,
1 2 small red onion, halved lengthwise, bring to low pressure (8 psi) over high at the end. Otherwise you lose some
then thinly sliced and soaked in water heat. Lower heat to maintain pressure. of its umami oomph.
10 minutes Cook 15 minutes, or a few minutes longer 8. To serve, bring broth to a simmer over
14 cup thinly sliced green onion, green if your cookers low setting is less than medium heat. Fill a medium pot with wa-
parts only 8 psi. If your cooker has only a high- ter and bring to a rolling boil for noodles.
14 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves pressure (15 psi) setting, cook 12 minutes. 9. Meanwhile, prepare your pho assembly
Pepper 4. While broth cooks, soak noodles in hot line: Slice breasts and legs from chicken;
Garnish Plate (recipe on page 86) tap water until pliable and opaque, about set aside half for another use. Cut or tear
Ginger Dipping Sauce (recipe on page 86) 10 minutes. Drain, rinse, and drain well. breast and leg meat into 1/4-in. slices or
Divide among four large soup bowls. shreds (discard skin) and put in a bowl.
1. Make broth: Rinse chicken and set aside 5. When broth is done, lift cooker to a cool Put red onion, green onion, cilantro, and
to drain. Put coriander seeds and cloves burner and let pressure decrease until pepper in separate small bowls. Set out
in a dry 6- to 8-qt. pressure cooker. Over pressure indicator drops, about 20 min- the bowls of soaked noodles.
medium heat, toast until fragrant, shak- utes. Remove lid. 10. When water is boiling, tip the first
ing, several minutes. Add onion and gin- 6. Let cool 5 minutes, then use tongs to bowls noodles into a noodle strainer (see
ger and cook, stirring, until browned on transfer chicken to a bowl. Dont wor- page 82) or other small mesh strainer.
edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Traditionally, the ry if some parts fall off. Just add them Dunk strainer into boiling water, stirring
84 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET
STOCKPOT PHO
Using a pressure cooker gives you
velvety, round flavorslike cash-
mere. A stockpot makes soup thats
more like shantung silk; you get
more hills and valleys in the flavors,
Nguyen says.
1.
Follow steps 1 and 2 of recipe at left,
but use a 6- to 8-qt. stockpot and
add 10 cups water (rather than 8) to
pot. Partially cover, then bring to
a boil over high heat.
2.
Uncover, skim off scum, then lower
heat to a gentle simmer.
Cook, uncovered, 45 minutes; turn
chicken over and cook 45 minutes
more, then transfer with tongs to
a large bowl (leave any parts that may
have fallen off in stockpot to
flavor broth). Let broth simmer
another 1/2 hour, covered.
3.
noodles with chopsticks or a fork to loos- Meanwhile, soak noodles as directed
en them, until theyre soft, 20 to 40 sec- in step 4 at left, and soak and
cool chicken as directed in step 6.
onds. Lift one out and pinch it to see
whether its tender. Some noodles 4.
are thicker and need more time. Pull When broth is done, proceed with
recipe as directed.
strainer of noodles from water, shaking to
drain into pot, and empty into the soup
bowl. Top with chicken. Arrange the
chicken so its flat in the bowl. That
way, it gets nicely heated by broth.
Add red onion, green onion, cilantro, and
a sprinkle of pepper, to give it a little pop.
11. Taste broth once more and season with
fish sauce, salt, and/or sugar if needed.
Divide among bowls. Serve immediately,
with Garnish Plate and Ginger Dipping
Sauce.
MAKE AHEAD Broth, through step 6,
3 days, covered and chilled, or 3 months, fro-
zen (season before serving). Cooked chicken,
up to 3 days, chilled, or 3 months, frozen. Re-
hydrated noodles, up to 1 week, chilled.
*Organic sugar has more of the molasses left
in it and thus more flavor; you could also
use turbinado sugar. Find the noodles in the
international aisle of most grocery stores
(often theyll be labeled pad Thai).
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 85
Food & Drink
PER TBSP. 14 Cal., 1.4% (0.2 Cal.) from fat; 0.3 g protein;
0 g fat; 3.5 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 291 mg sodium;
0 mg chol. GF
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Food & Drink
FA S T & F R E S H
WEEKNIGHT COOKING
SLOW-COOKER CARNITAS
SERVES 6 / 40 MINUTES, PLUS 8 HOURS IN COOKER
Using a slow-cooker to braise pork means you can start this
recipe in the morning, go about your day, and just sizzle the
meat right before dinner. Store any leftover carnitas in the
cooking liquid and use for sandwiches, or serve over polenta.
JENNIFER CAUSEY (FOOD STYLING: MARIANA VELASQUEZ; PROP STYLING: MINDI SHAPIRO)
3. Cover slow-cooker and cook on low until pork is very
tender, about 8 hours. Lift meat to a cutting board or
platter. Pour cooking liquid through a fine wire-mesh
strainer into a measuring cup, then discard solids. Skim
W I N E PA I R I N G fat from cooking liquid. Using two forks, shred meat into
Lone Madrone
2013 Sheep Camp large chunks.
Zinfandel 4. Heat 1 tbsp. oil in cleaned cast-iron skillet over high heat.
(Paso Robles; $45) Arrange half of meat in an even layer in skillet and cook,
undisturbed, until deeply caramelized, 4 to 5 minutes.
Stir in 1/2 cup cooking liquid; transfer to a bowl. Repeat
with remaining 1 tbsp. oil, pork, and 1/2 cup cooking liquid.
5. Toast tortillas over an open flame 20 to 30 seconds per
side and wrap in a clean kitchen towel until ready to serve.
Or, wrap in towel and microwave 1 minute to warm.
6. Serve pork with warm tortillas and pico de gallo.
PER 2-TACO SERVING 852 Cal., 64% (548 Cal.) from fat; 49 g protein; 61 g fat
(18 g sat.); 25 g carbo (2.6 g fiber); 705 mg sodium; 188 mg chol. GF
being a starchy mess). Add shrimp and 1 3
cup loosely packed tarragon
cook just until curled and pink, about leaves, divided
1 minute. Drain potatoes and shrimp, 2 oz. parmesan cheese, shredded (34 cup)
then return mixture to pot off the heat.
Discard bay leaves. 1. Preheat oven to 475 with a rack in top
3. Add butter, dill, chives, and pepper, third of oven and another in lower third.
and toss until butter melts. Transfer Combine mushrooms, oil, garlic, thyme,
to a serving bowl and serve with pepper, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a large bowl;
lemon wedges. toss to coat. Divide seasoned mushrooms
PER SERVING 329 Cal., 47% (152 Cal.) from fat; between two large rimmed baking sheets
23 g protein; 17 g fat (9.9 g sat.); 23 g carbo (2.2 g fiber); and spread in an even layer.
743 mg sodium; 231 mg chol. GF/LC 2. Bake mushrooms 10 minutes, then
remove from oven and increase heat to
broil. Broil mushrooms, one baking sheet
SHRIMP
SERVES 6 / 30 MINUTES
then simmered in broth. Save a bit of pasta
water to moisten each bowl before serving.
broth and cook, stirring and scraping
to loosen browned bits from bottom of
baking sheet, until mixture boils and
Think of this as the West Coast version of reduces slightly, 1 to 2 minutes.
2 lbs. mixed fresh wild mushrooms (such as
a shrimp boil, with plenty of fresh herbs. 5. Combine mushroom mixture, pasta,
shiitake, cremini, and oyster), quartered,
Dont overcook the shrimp; theyll finish half of parsley, half of tarragon, and
or, if small, halved
cooking as you toss everything together. 34 cup extra-virgin olive oil
remaining 1/2 tsp. salt in a large bowl;
Serve with a refreshing arugula salad. toss to coat. Divide among four shallow
12 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved
bowls, then drizzle with broth mixture
8 thyme sprigs
and a bit of pasta water if needed. Top
11 2 lbs. baby Yukon Gold potatoes, 1 tsp. pepper
with remaining parsley, tarragon, and
scrubbed, then halved 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
the parmesan.
3 bay leaves 12 oz. pappardelle pasta
2 tbsp. salt 11 2 cups reduced-sodium vegetable broth PER SERVING 844 Cal., 51% (428 Cal.) from fat;
1 2 cup apple cider vinegar 1 3 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley 25 g protein; 48 g fat (8.1 g sat.); 81 g carbo (7.9 g fiber);
817 mg sodium; 56 mg chol. V
2 lbs. peeled deveined large shrimp leaves, divided
(26 to 30 per lb.), tails on or off
1 2 cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter
SUNSET J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 89
Food & Drink
SHOPPING SMARTS
BEST IN CLASS
Liquid gold All-purpose Finishing
After salt and pepper, extra-virgin olive oil is the
ingredient we cant do without in the Test Kitchen.
This month, were uncapping the newly released har-
vest, nearly all of which comes from California (in the 1
States, anyway). To help us choose among hundreds of
the states oils, we sat down with a proLinda Sikorski, For sauting, High heat dissi-
baking, and sal- pates flavors, so
senior buyer at Market Hall Foods (markethallfoods.com), ads, look for save these com-
a specialty foods store in Oakland. extra-virgin oils plex oils for driz-
by Corto ($22/ zling: Bondolio
liter; markethall ($22/250 ml. ;
foods.com); bondolio.com);
Enzo ($20/500 Katz Rock Hill
WHATS IN A 2
Style or vari- ml. ; enzostable. Ranch ($22/
etal Some mak- com) ; and 375 ml.; katz
LABEL?
ers give information Ska Hills farm.com);
about the flavors to ($18/500 ml.; Massiglia ($35/
guide your choice. sekahills.com) . 375 ml.; marci
anoestate.com);
and Pacific Sun
(from $16/500
1
California Harvest date ml. ; pacificsun
Olive Oil Coun- More useful than sell- 2 oliveoil.com).
cil certification Veri- by date. Olive oil is
fies that the oil has freshest and most fla- Oils worst enemies
passed the chemical vorful within a year of Air, heat, and light degrade oil over
and sensory stan- harvest, says Sikorski. time. Buy oil in dark bottles, in a quan-
dards that qualify it Dont save it!
LEFT: FOOD STYLING: RANDY MON; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE WOLHEIM. TOP RIGHT: RESSMA DESAI/STOCKSY (2)
tity you can use up in a few months,
as extra-virgin, the and keep in a dark, cool cupboard.
highest grade.
Awards seals
The most prestigious
olive-oil competitions
are the L.A. Interna-
tional, Good Food
Awards, and New
York International.
90 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 S U N S E T Photograph by I A I N BAGW E L L
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Food & Drink
Back to
school
SIP A short list of
Western community-
college winemaking
programs :
Napa Valley
College, CA
Viticulture and
Winery Technology
Program;
napavalley.edu.
Geo advantage:
World-renowned
Napa Valley
enough said.
From $138.
Santa Rosa
Junior College,
Santa Rosa, CA
Viticulture and
Wine Studies;
santarosa.edu.
Geo advantage:
Sonoma Countys
prodigious diversity
of wines, from Pinot
Noir and Chardon-
nay to Zinfandel,
92 J A N UA RY 2 0 1 7 SUNSET Photograph by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
Special advertising section
Getaways A
AND OTHER
G
GOO D S TUFF
101 ALASKA
102 Alaska Marine Highway System
103 Alaska Tour & Travel
104 Discover Kodiak
105 Explore Fairbanks
106 Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway
107 Gray Line Alaska
ARIZONA
108 Tempe Arizona
CALIFORNIA
109 Bishop Chamber of Commerce and
Visitors Bureau
110 Calaveras Visitors Bureau
111 City of Twentynine Palms
112 FairfieldGateway to the Napa Valley
113 Hornblower Cruises and Events
114 San Diego Tourism Authority
115 SeaWorld San Diego
116 THE US GRANT, a Luxury Collection
Hotel, San Diego
117 Tickle Pink InnCarmel
118 Visit Vallejo
119 Yosemite/Mariposa County Tourism
120 Yucca Valley Chamber of Commerce
121 CANADA
122 Marine Link Tours
123 Oak Bay Beach Hotel
124 St Lawrence Cruise Lines
WIN THIS
COASTAL ESCAPE!
A bustling seafood market is our happy place. In next months issue,
were showcasing one of our favoritesSan Diegos open-air Tuna
Harbor Dockside Marketand weve partnered with the San Diego
Tourism Authority to offer a greatest-hits getaway to this beautiful
seaside city. The prize package includes round-trip airfare for two,
courtesy of the SDTA; a three-night stay at The US Grant, a Luxury
Collection Hotel; dinner for two at the Top of the Market, with views
of San Diego Bay; two tickets to SeaWorld; and a Harbor Tour for
two on Hornblower Cruises & Events. For more details on this
THOMAS J. STORY
SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) is published monthly in regional and special editions by Sunset Publishing Corporation, 55 Harrison St., Ste. 200, Oakland, CA 94607. Periodicals postage paid at Oakland, CA, and at addi-
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Just a few hours of your time can make a big difference.
Together, with our nationwide community of volunteers,
you can help the Feeding America network of food
banks end hunger.
CHANTEL CIPOLLA,
Natural Balance believer
& her Alaskan Klee Kai, Bella.
Natural Balance Pet Foods, Inc.