MW 54 Turbo Jet Engine Instructions
MW 54 Turbo Jet Engine Instructions
MW 54 Turbo Jet Engine Instructions
Copyńght Notice
When ordering parts purchasers will be asked to quote their plan number.
Copying ot this plan by whatever means is prohibited. This plan gives the
purchaser the right to make one or more MW54 engines solely tor their
own use and enjoyment. Individuals, groups or consortiums wishing to
produce multiple engines or batches ot engines trom this plan are asked to
confirm their aims with Wren Turbines Ltd .
It was tormed specifically to launch the MW54 gas turbine design and to
Any individual, group or consortium wishing to make parts or complete manage the design and production ot cast turbine wheels and ngv's tor the
engines trom this plan, tor sale or exchange must obtain permission in engine. This briet has now been widened to incorporate the production
advance trom Wren Turbines Ltd. The design has been registered and any and supply ot all MW54 parts and accessories tor the turbine enthusiast.
person or organisation that undertakes the manufacture ot this or simiłar Parts available individually and as a complete kij ot parts" ("avail Sept
design tor sale, anywhere in world, without express permission trom Wren 2000). The company will also be providing additional parts to compliment
T urbines Ltd , will be prosecuted. this and future designs in response to demand.
Manutacturers wishing to produce the design or parts, should contact Improvements and enhancements to the design
Wren Turbines to arrange licence approval at the registered office:
Since the issue ot the 1" edition plan the MW54 design has incorporated a
Wren Turbines Ltd num ber ot refinements and modifications. The majority ot these have been
Unit 19, Century Park Network Centre to simplify & aid construction , others to extend the engine operating range.
Dearne Lane, Manvers These changes have been verified and their effectiveness demonstrated
Rotherham through extensive air testing in a range ot aircraft and teedback trom you
S63SDE as constructors.
United Kiogdom
These changes have been issued as an update to current t st edition plan Had your lirst run ol your MW54?
purchasers as part ol our on-going support lor our MW54 customers and
M
are now incorporated into the new 2 Edition ol plans and instructions We are always delighted to hear ol new additions to the MW54 lamily. We
presented here. have a "latest news" section in our web site, so let us know and check lor
yoursell who else has linished and is runn ing.
In the three months since the release ol the MW54 plan many new
developments have been completed and tested. The MW54 turbo-prop, Check us out on wren-turbines.com!
mentioned as a development project, has now been completed and
running successlully. It has now completed many llights in a Pilatus Turbo- Turbo-Prop attachment.
Porter and proved beyond doubt the viability ol the design and the
This unique and
practicality ol this lorm ol propulsion lor modellers . A large demand lor
exciting new
plans lor this has built up and preparation ol these is well under way.
innovation is not
a complete
Wren Turbines have undertaken considerable study and practice in turbine
engine but a
wheel design and accumulated considerable expertise in preparation and
power turbine
production ol wax moulds and subsequent casting in Inconel 7t3C and
and gearbox
high temperature stainless alloys. This experience has been applied to the
add-on, which
production ol lour new cast items: a 55mm thrust turbine, a matching ngv,
can be retrolitted
a 55mm gas generator turbine and a 72mm power turbine. This
to the engine to
experience ol investment casting has set us in a healthy position lor lutu re
convert the
projects where the application ol such technology can simplify construction
thrust to shaft
and enhance an overall design lor the benelit ol the home builder and
power and drive
potential commercial production.
a propeller to
power a model
Future improvements in MW54 design.
aircraft.
The MW54 is nowa proven design and many examples have been built Complete turbo-prop unit with MW54 attached
and run successlully without modilication. It is always anticipated than
lurther relinements may arise although we leel these are not likely to be Some smali mod's will be required to the engine but extensive
significant, but may arise to incorporate the introduction ol luture development has enabled this conversion to be easily carried out by the
commerci al parts. Ali purchasers ol the plans will have their names held majority ol MW54 engine owners.
on Iile so that we can give them priority notice ol any design
improvements. A long testing process has , we hope isolated all the critical Wren Turbines will carry out this mod ilication lor a smali charge il required .
parts ol the design resu lted in the matu ring ol a highly practical power un it. The turbo-prop drawings are currently being completed and a note will be
Smali changes will be posted on our web site and anything signilicant will posted on the Wren site when they are available. Plans will be available
result in a mod sheet being issued . Feedback lrom customers will always separately.
be welcome!
2
Turbo-prop parta layoot We believe the engine is a significant śtep forward in refinement of the
deslgn of smali gas turbine engines, whieh inCludes a num ber of
innovative features.
An ambitious target was set to greatJy reduee the size and weight fromthe
typical engine currently popular with home-bUilders and model fliers.
3
The shafl power uniI is now running well and separate plans will be The seeond is being used for Ihe turbo-prop and produces aboul 5lbs
available later in 2000. The prototype turbo-prop version is fitted to a 96" thrust or 22N , (without nozzle) at 1Bar ot case pressure, and 20lbs thrust
wingspan ·Pilatus Turbo-Porter" shown below afler ifs lirst flights at the trom it's 16' x10' (400x250) prop running at over 9,000rpm, Early on, the
Isle ot Man In July 2000. engines' reluctance to give a low id le due to the limited heating area
available trom the six vapourisers, necessitated the introduction ot the
IWell/e stick combustor which has eompleteły resolved the problem. A
sustained idle has been achieved at just 25,OOOrpm although tor secure
acceleration we recommend 35-40,OOOrpm as a practical minimum ,
Rotatlonal spead
Due to the smali diameter ot its rotor assembly, the engine needs to rev at
high levels to generate sufficient lip-speed and throughpul. The special
688-size, full-compliment ceramie bearings trom GRW are rated at 170K
and have proved reliable and give good headroom tor long operationallife.
4
MW54 TESTS
Test runs earried out on John Wright's engine on Sunday 6/8/00 Thrust engine with eone:
Air temperature 24C and air pressure 1024mb
Engine fitted with thrust turbine and east ngv
14
14
12 .
12
~-
10
10
0
.c 17 -
•
:!
-' 8
8 ~
,
;;
-
0
6
2 6 J:
J:
.... .... 4 .
4
--r 2
2
O O
50,000 70,000 90,000 110,000 130,000 150,000 0.00 0.20 0.40 0. 60 0.80 1.00 1.20 1.40 1.60
Pressure Bar
1_ _ Thru st Lbs - - - e one olf Thrust 1
1 .6 250
-
~
1.4 .
1 .2
•
hl r::
20 0 . .
-",
ID I
1 .0
,..::;:l V :§ 150 .
0
i
~ E
"-
0 0 .8
;;
C-
0 .6 . ~ --
100 .
"
~
~F
~
"
U-
~
0
~ 0 .4 - sa
'-'
0 .2
0 .0
50,000
~
I
70,000
---- 90,000 110,000 130,000 150,000
o ~--~--~--~--~----~------~--~
0.00 0 .20 0 .40 0.60 0.80 1 .00 1 .20 1.40 1.60
Pressure Bar
I- - - eon e olf bar -+-P ressure - Bar 1
5
Model suitability. MW54 parta availability through Wren Turbines
The' engine in its thrust lorm is well suiled to the "45' size ducled lan We have combined our experience in reviewingl Ihe conslruction lor lhe
model. For Iraining and demonslration purposes Ihe Winsock Models whole range ol lurbine-builders. In recent years there has been a trend
Turbine Delia or Balsa USA Enforcer kil are well-tesled designs proven lo lowards ready availability ol a wide range ol selected and pre-cul
tly well. malerials. part made componenls and ready made off-the-shell parts. We
know Ihal not all builders have the lime lo make Irom scralch and have
Iried lo respond lo Ihe likely needs, as we see Ihem. Since the release ol
Ihe 1'1 Edition MW54 plan we have had many requesls lor a com piele kil
ot parts requiring no machining and we are working lowards,Ihis.
The mosl difficull parts fo make are Ihe lurbine, ngv andl Ihe diffuser. We
know Ihal accurate malchihg olihe' lurbine lo the engine can lake a long
lime and require' much experience. lihe designl is, noti loleranl ol poer
workmanship and for Ihe besl chance ol geod resuils we would not
Iherelore recommend making ones own lurbine wIlee~. Wren Turbines now
slock casl lurbine wIleels lor the engine and Ihese are currentiy available
in Ihrusl lorm, Ine gas generalor lorm will be ready very soon (likely Sepl
2000), and the quality expected ol Ihese critical componenls is second lo
none.
The ngv is now available in casl lorm and has been lesled in several
engines and gives the highesl Ihrusl raiing allied lo !he ability lo run
exceedingly smali lip clearances lor low lemp and high performance. For.
Ihose who wish 101 make Iheir own n!lv, laser cul sheel slrips will be
availabie whichl will help ensure accuracy caOl be mainlained and an
The smalII and lighlweighl design makes il ideal lor Iwin inslalla!ions, in an effective component prod'uced. Both Iilrolotype engines tladl built-up ngv's
airframe that may slill frt in the car - anolher aim lor the design salisfied! which performed well. The' diffuser can be machined al nome aithough ils
mulli-Iunctional complexity may prompl olhers lo purchase Itlis ilem ready-
Engine Management made" also now available Irom slock. lihe ends ol Ihe comtluslion
The' engine is suiled lo ECU (Eleclronic Controi Unit) conlrol in bolhi the chamber require spinnimg to' ensure ease ol accurale assembly and
lurboprop and lurbine lorms. A recommended conlroller is Ihe Orbit ECU. minimizing air leaks _.crucial to ils operalion, andl again some will nof wish
Other makes ol comtroller are being evaluated and the outcome olihis lo make Ihem. These parts are also available.
lestingl will be posted on the Wren site. The, Orbit is available wilh a
malching speed raiing, higher Ihan is normally used lor !he KJ66 or Other parts such as shafts, ceramic 688 bearings, compressors. inlake
similar. and exhausl cones, vaporizer slicks, luel needles and fittings. electric
molors lor Ihe new electric start syslem, screws and a host ot o!her sundry
fittings are also now available Irom Wren - see the sfock lisi at wren-
turbines.com lor latest on parts availability.
6
MW54 Instruction Manual 1.- Sałety
and Although this is al smali engine it is most definitely not a toy and must be
operated with due care both for the operator and any members of the
Plan Set pub lic that may be nearby.
The engine must be operated only in a=rdance with the GTBA code of
practice and the a=mpaillying appendix:- obtainable from the GTBA web
site http://www.gtbe.cnuce.cnr.it New turbine users are recommended to
read the information contained thereiril and to familiarize themselves with
CONTENTS turbine operation and special precautions needed.
1.0 Safety The rolor in the engine is running al very high speed and if there were a
2.0 General MW54 descripłion failure of the "oter assembly it could infłict serious injul)!.
3.0 Diffuser
4.0 Air filter There are some obvious precautions that we wowld like to take the
5.0 Shaft seal opportunity to higllllight: -
6.0 Lubrication and gas supply
7.0 Front eover
8.0 Inlet eone 1 NEVER stand ar allow anyone else to stand close (within 30 feet
9.0 Shaft tunnel or 10mtrs) behindł an engine when it is running or be tempted to
10.0 Combustion cham ber look at the exhausl. It is always possible that the turbine wlheel
11 .0 Fuel supply hub could failor a blade could fail. If you wish to 100< at the cołour
12.0 The shaft ot the exhaust then you can set up a mirror ar a video camera to
13.0 The eompressor observe il safely.
14.0 The ease
15.0 Turbine wheel 2 Ali spectators should stand i1 front of the engine ideally beilind a
16.0 The ngv bemer severał metres fnDm the engine, 50 they are not rempted to
17.0 Assembling the engine point at parls of the engine Yfhen it is running. The operator should
18.0 Balaneing the rotating parts also stand fonward of the el'lgine i.e, in front of the piane of the
19.0 Starting and runniog the engine turbine.
7
~General Oescription o. MW54
3 Ali spectators should be briefed before Ihe run on how lo behave.
6 Wear safely glasses when machining and runnin~ Ihe engine, and
ear defenders when running Ihe engine.
cornpl.,te·'Nithelectric start...
Introduction.
II is no~ Ihe inlenlion lo describe Ihe delail and functioning of gas lurbines
in gen eral, Ihal would be beyond the scope ot Ihis manual. For an
excellenI body of reading we would strongly recommend Ihe reader lo
refer lo' twa excellenI texts; "Gas Turoines for Model Aircraft" by Kurt
Schreckling, and "Mbdei Jel Engines" by Thomas Kamps (shortly lo be
revised). 60th are available from: TrapleI Publia:alions Ud,
email [email protected]
General arrangemenl
The MW54 is a single-shaft lurbo-jel of compacl design (dims 165x88 ola).
II has a single stage cenlrifugal compresson, annular combuslion chamber
and single slage axral ftow lurbine. The rolor i's supported on twa cage-
less ceramic ball-races, lubricaled wilh oil mixed inlo Ihe fuel and fed from
Ihe main fuel feed. For cooling Ihe bearings an air supply is laken via a
special filIer ring mounled behind Ihe diffuser and fed throl!Jgh a senes of
intemal dtillings lo Ille· franI of the fronl bearing. The lubricalion supply is
also fed inlo Ihis poirll andl Ihe air pushes Ihe lubricalion Ihrough Ihe franI
beanng, down Ihe shaft lunnel, and passes oul Ihrough Ihe rear bearing. II
is then mixed wilh Ihe oulgoing gases passing Ihrough Ihe lurbine wheel,
lo almosphere.
8
Fuel system and combustion.
The luel supply is pressurized by a smali , exlernal electrically operated Twa compressor wheels can be used lor the engine. The "09" can be used
gear pump and engine speed is controlled by varying the pump supply directly, the "10" size is cheaper but needs trimming belore use. Numbers
voltage using an electronic speed controller ar ECU. reler to last twa no. s ol the Garratt part number. See Sect. 1Olor details.
Combustion is initiated using a temporary propane gas supply connected The wedges on the lront ol the diftuser lace are each drilled with holes,
to the engine and ignition is obtained by energizing one ol the two glow wh ich are tapped to take cover securing screws ar engine services. The
plugs fitted . diftusion pat h is also gently sloped backwards on the Iron t and periphery
to ensure the airflow is continuously expanding lor maximum efticiency.
The gas is used to provide pre-heating whereupon liquid luel is then led in
and vapourised in 12 tubes litted to the combustion cham ber. Metering is At the rear ol the diftuser a plenum
achieved by the use ol hypodermic needles to control luel Ilow into the 12 cham ber is lormed that receives air
tubes and the single supply lor the main bearings. through a l ine gauze mesh which is used
to lilter the air supply to the bearings,
Breakdown ol parts. improving the bearing lile considerably.
# no.s reler to the parts list and general arrangement drawing at the Iront
ol this manual. Left shows rear
ol diftuser with
3. Diffuser, Part #7 the lilter ring
raised , and
plenum cham ber
visible below.
Compressor wheels
Holes (x5 shown - naw x3) lor
air leed to bearings can also be seen in the loreground.
9
Diffuser #7 - making. The face of the ring should be marked with layout blue ready to scribe the
The diffuser is easy to produce on a 3-axis CNC mili - coordinates can be layout marks if you are intending to machine the wed ges on your lathe.
entered wit h reference to the drawings to produce a straightforward cutter
path for the cutter to follow. Centre-holes for the
wedges can now be drilled
using a smali 1/8 ar BSO
It is also possible to machine it on a lathe using a milling spindle. The
centre-drill, indexed for the
wedge angles are particularly sensitive to any layout inaccuracy and care
11 positions using your
should be taken to get this as accurate as possible. The shall seal
preferred device. Drill 3 of
requires careful concentric machin ing but the rest of the work is
these to 3mm for service
reasonably straightforward. The curved wed ges are difficult to machine
connections (refer to Part
without CNC but there are ways to simplify the process .
#7 drawing for position).
The remaining 8 should be
Material drilled out to 2.05mm
The best material for the diffuser is hard, free-cutting aluminium available (tapping size for M2.5) for
from good metal stockists. The grades HE15 or HE30 are also suitable but the cover securing screws.
a supply of cutting lubricant (white spirit) will need to be arranged and Wedges
maintained . The lathe spindle is indexed for the 11 wedges using the indexing plate.
The machining operations may require a more rigid fixing than that offered
Machining the diffuser by the simple detent used for drilling earlier.
The blank disc is held in the lathe chuck and the rear is faced off and
turned first. Carefully machine ali the detail shown on the drawing. Do not Marking out can be done on the lathe with the indexing plate ar on arotary
machine the outside diameter ar the 21 mm centre-hole yet. table. The key angle is the underside of the wedge. This line should be
Reverse the blank and machine the ex1ended across the ring marked with layout blue. When the piece is
recess for the oil seal and the central aligned with the milling spindle the cross slide can move the spindle along
21 mm hole at the same time, to the whole length of the scribed line to check the alignment for greater
maintain concentricity. Use a round- accuracy.
nose tool to form the internal radii
shown . The top-side of the wedge will be laid out in the same way. The wark will
need to be rotated and more than one cut will be needed. A 3 ar 4mm end-
Remave the blank and make up a mili will be adequate to make the main cuts . You should remember that the
simple mandrel to mount the blank part between the wedges is tapered back 3.3' to allow for greater gas
through the centre hole. Mount the expansion - see the drawing for details. This taper can be machined
blank to the mandrel and tighten easily by angling the rotary table or graduating device (if you have used
securely. The outside diameter can one) with a sloping wedge ar packing piece. You can also mount the cutter
now be machined and the ring on a vertical si ide, which is itself mounted on the tool post. This allows the
machined for the wedges. cutter path to be at an angle to the faceplate.
10
Ali of the front steps are machined oul. This just leaves the flow wilh a lelter to indicate it's function eg ' G" for gas - refer to Ihe drawing to
straighteners on Ihe periphery to machine. confirm which is which.
Flow straighteners. The diffuser can now be removed and the remaining 7 holes lapped M2.5
The flow slraighteners are tricky lo machine. The easiest way lo machine for the oover securing screws.
them is lo conslruct a smali siep on the cross slide of Ihe lathe about 3mm
high on a piece of scrap metal 6mm or 50 Ihick. 4,0 Air filter
At Ihe rear of Ihe diffuser Ihere is a machined recess which we cali a
The feed screw is removed ' plenum", on which is fitted a fine filier which helps to ensure the bearings
from Ihe vertical slide and enjoy a plentiful supply of cleaned oooling alr, free trom gnt or
the vertical slide is contamination and thus prolonging Ihe life considerably. You WIli need lo
mounted on Ihe 1001 posl drill x3 holes ot 2mm diameter between Ihe inside of Ihe recess and fronl
solhal lhe machining is oil seal and this air plenum, for the cooling air supply. Thif is a tricky
carried oul using Ihe lop operalion and will require a long (100mm) drill bit as the slandard length
slide feed screw. will be insufficienl. If you don't have a long drill, Ihen extend a standard
one with a 60mm length ot 3mm sleel or brass rod drilled dia 2mm, into
The up and down feed is the end about 10mm. Clean up Ihe drill shank and silver solder in place
controlled by a 19mm and keep in a safe place - we shall use il again laler!
diameter bali race Ihal is
secured to the end of a Drilling the air holes
bar. The bar is bolled lo The drill must be started slightly away from the corner of the oil-seal
Ihe boltom slot of Ihe recess and slarting the hole with a smali ball-shaped engraving point has
vertical slide. As the 10p slide feed screw is moved towards Ihe rear of the helped to keep the drill in lhe righl place. It is also suggesled thal you slip
lalhe Ihe bali race runs down Ihe step and scribes an arc wilh Ihe cutter. a short piece of O.5mm slainless behind lhe drill lo ensure il slays away
The culter should be a 3mm-diameler end-mill ar 3-flute slol-drill. from Ihe corner. This should ensure Ihal the drill comes oul insi de Ihe
plenum. If you do not do Ihis, lhe
You will have lo be very careful that Ihe culter does not snag and that you drill will break Ihough where Ihe
lake smali cuts. filier cover is sealed.
Installing the service connections Refer to sheel 2 of Part #7 for Ihe
The inner side of Ihe 3mm holes will need lo be counler-bored lo receive orientalion of Ihe drill, as il needs
the face of Ihe screws thal bring the gas, oil , fuel and air pressure services lo pass between Iwo wedges lo
in place. This can be achieved with a pin drill or end mili. Reverse Ihe end al Ihe righl place. See left on
diffuser onlo your mandrel and re-align the rear of Ihe hales with your early 14 vane diffuser.
drilling spindle and dividing device. Counter-bore, using a 6mm dia pin drill
ar end mili, each of the holes, Ihe aim being lo provide a flat face. The
inner edge of the periphery of Ihe diffuser mayaiso need relieving lo allow
Ihe screw head of the pipe connector lo slip inlo place. Mark each hole
•
11
Air filIer cover #9
The air filier ring, is simply made from 1mm
thick aluminium sheet and Ihis is mounted 5.0 Front shaft seal #5
in the lathe on a ply former and turned -
This is a simple piece of machining that is
see left.
turned from a piece of hard turning quality
The centre hole should be a nice fit around aluminium. The smaller diameter is a close
running fit with the front bearing spacer (Part
Ihe shaft tunnel.
#2). This fit ensures the lubrication and air
Drill the x8 @ 4mm air holes in the supply goes down the bearing tube and exits
positions indicated , using your indexing Front Back the rear of the engine and shou ld be carefully
turned to dia 11.1 mm max.
altachment Drill the x8 The seal must be turned all in one piece so the centre-hole and outer
mounting holes to 2mm for the momenl. diameters are concentric and finely finished . The air holes from the diffuser
Check the position carefully and mark with a plenum meet the wedge shaped recess at the rear of the seal and are
centre-pop to provide a "top" location marko directed into the gap belween the compressor and Ihe bearing . Make sure
the outside diameter is a snug fit to the diffuser.
Once checked , the ring can be offered up and
spolted through to the diffuser, in position, (see The slolted grooves for the oil and air, can be mad e by milling with a 2mm
above right) using your new extra-lon g M2 drill! ball-nose milling culter whilst the piece is still in the lathe before parting off.
The holes in the diffuser are then tapped M2.5. Be careful to get the orientation righl. Alternatively the grooves can be
Finally the 2mm holes in the filter ring are opened made using a 2mm dia bali-end engraving culter in the "Dremel" and
up to 2.5mm. carefully "stroking" the groove in free-hand . The O.5mmx21 mm recess is to
retain the front bearing and needs to be done carefully to size.
FilIer gauze #8
The air filter gauze is very fine
Use a six-step indexing device to accurately centre and drill the six 3mm
200x200 holes per square inch
dia holes for the securing screws - noting the orientation . These screws
stainless steel mesh and is readily also retain the shaft tunnel (Part #11) so need to be accurate.
available from Wre n Turbines .
Mark the "Top" with a centre-pop to aid location later. If you find the shaft
It is stuck onto the prepared ring wit h seal difficult to remove (to get to the bearing for example) Ihen Iwo of the
cyno' glue or a contact adhesive, holes (diagonally opposite) in the shaft seal can be tapped 4BA. Two
making sure that the glue does not longish 4BA screws can then be used as an extractor to gently ease It out
spread over the mesh at the position without damage to the delicate sealing ring in the centre.
of the air holes.
After it is dry it can be trimmed with a pair of scissors or sharp craft knife.
12
Front spacer #2
The oil line curves around from the bearing tube entering through the
The centre spacer between the compressor and front bearing is a close service access hole in the diffuser. To ease the lorming ol the bend,
running fit with the shaft seal and needs to be well polished and dead an neal the brass tube by heating to red hot and quenching in water. An
parallei across the ends and the outside diameter concentric with the bore. angled 1.6mm hole will be required lor the tube to leed lubricant directly to
II it is slightly out of parallei it will bend the shaft as the compressor wheel the fron t ol the front bearing - see #33 drawing for details. The tube
is tightened anto the shaft. This will cause the end of the shaft to distort should be pushed through until it just appears through the diffuser face. It
when running and may permanently bend the shaft and ruin the bearing . is then sealed in place with a smear ol silicone sealant - be careful not to
U I UU 10 120 get any down the tube itself!
Machine from mild ar high carbon steel (do not use stainiess) in one
setting and carelully part off and check for parallei with the vernier Dr dial 111111111111111111111111111111111 Service conneclion -Iubricalion
cali per. Stroke onto fine emery paper on glass plate to adjust if required .
This item can be left slightly overlong, Dr made after assembling the motor, = The connection through lo the outside of the
SD its length can be 'adjusted' to give the correct compressor position • engine is achieved using a Part #36 tube-end
relative to the diffuser. If adjustment needed a mandrel must be made to lit fitting silver-soldered to the end ol the tube. This
the spacer anto to maintain accuracy, and the part skimmed from the allows an M3 lemale 'Festo' type push-in litting to be used to secure and
narrow end . Check as above afterwards for paralIelism. provide connection.
The space between the rear ol the diffuser and the combustion cham ber is
Lubrication
smali and we have kept the pipe sizes smali to reduce affect on the
The bearings are lubricated with oil mixed with the fuel to the ratio of 6%
airflow. We use a smali brass feed-pipe made up into a "tee", with fine
oil to 100% fuel. Feed is via a simple pressure feed from a tee in the main
stainless tubes, silver-soldered in the ends of the tee. If brass were to be
fuel line. Metering is achieved using a O.6mm hypodermic needle as a
used at the ends they would surely melt in the heat of the combustion
restrictor fitted in a short length of brass inserted in the pipe that leads to
cham ber.
the lubrication fitting . This restriction is probably supplying alittle too much
lubrication but as it has worked well during tests is what we recommend.
A 16mm length of 2.4mm brass tube (1.6mm i/d) has a 1.6mm hole drilled
Lubricalion supply #33 in the side and a 10mm length ol 1.6mm (O.8mm i/d) pipe is silver-
Before attempting to fit the lubrication soldered into this hole. Twa lengths ol 40mm long, 1.6mm brass tube are
line, the lilter cover plate must be lully then silver-soldered to the ends of the 2.4mm tube to form a tee. Finally
installed . The lube line is made lrom each end ol the arm of the tee has a 25mm length ol 0.8mm hypodermic
1.6mm o/d (O.8mm i/d) brass tube and needle or fine stainless tube silver-soldered to it. A Part #36 litting is then
has a smali tab from brass ar steel silver-soldered to the feed end to provide the gas connection through the
soldered to the tube when it is diffuser. The seat of the fitting should be exactly 13mm to the back of the
u;...1--:::::~It7:i"=-T-iiins·tallled in position . The tab is 2.4mm tube - see drawing for detail.
subsequently anchored using one of
the filter plate lixing screws - see left.
13
The propane supply is fed through Iwo smali 1mm dia holes 'of ils own al gał very hol ar subjecl
to significanl forces. II you are using Ihe Harger "1Q"
Ihe forward end of Ihe ouler wrapper of Ihe eombuslion chamber. The size eompressor lhen lrim Ihis to size first (see Sect.101 and make your
ends of Ihe lee should be benl lo the shape shown in drawing #34 and Ihe eone lo match Ihis.
end s inserted inlo Ihe Chamber" To ease Ihe bending, anneal Ihe brass
lube as for Ihe oil pipa. No fi>iing is requirad bul if desired a oouple of A leng\h is cul off wilh a hlaeksaw ar wood saw and is held in Ihe chuck in
smali slainless labs can be spal welded on lo Ihe chamber lo secure Ihe Ihe lalhe. II is importanI Ihal all łuming needed for lhe rear of Ihe insert is
gas pipe assembly. This eompleles your gas supply. eompleled wilhoul removing il from ~he thuck, Rrsl face off and bore Ihe
hole oul to a snug filon !he eompressor. Then by manipulaling bo!h feed
7.0 Front cover #6 screws and a boring 1001 rough 001 Ihle inside curve lor Ihe eompressor.
The compressar should be offered up regularly lo cheek progress.
The rronl cover is a simple piece ot luming Ihal is made from hard Iree-
cutting aluminium. The machining will be easier If you can make an arbor The fil1lal lurning is dane by hand using Ihe end
lo hol d Ihe cover when luming Ihe oulside diameter and o-ring groove. of a file, which has been ground alit to a genIle
curve and a 1001 resl (using a bar in !he 1001
Face off bolh sides and drill a hole to Ihe a~bor size. Secure Ihe wark on posIl. II is easy and quiek lo lurn Ihe malerial
Ihe arbor and lum Ihe diamelar down lo 88mm o/d and al lhe same lime and simple lo gel a good fil (see leli).
make Ihe recess for Ihe 1.'6mm sealing ring (ar 1.5mm ring if yOlIl are using
Ihis size). The ring musI be slightly proud ollhe adjacem suńace bul nol Final fitting is by rubbing same pencii lead ar a
50 proud Ihal ił is irlllossible lo push Ihe case on over il, aboul 0.1mm permanenl marker pen on lhe vanes ol Ihe
proud has been lound to wark well. When filling parts anIa o-riings compressor and twisting Ihe eompressor in Ihe
remernber to use a smear of silieon grease over Ihe ring 50 Ihe parts are lurned suńece. A1lemalively marking blue can be
easier lo disassemble, use sleady pressure and ease il oul in a eonIroIled wiped anIa Ihe plastic eone and Ihe oompressor
manner. Sel up your dnlling spindle and 11-way indexing salup and twisted in 115 recess where il will scrape !hrough
cenlre-dnill and drill Ihe mounling holes, 7 @ 2 .05mm (to lap M2.5) and 4 lhe coaling where il louches. This will leave a
@ 3mm. Take care lo gel Ihe pcd lo 'exactly 69mm. mark on !he area Ihlal needs to be eased oul
wilh Ihe file as betore.
The wark can Ihen be removed Irom Ihe arbor and Ihe inside and outside
dimensions lurned. The curve on Ihe inside ot Ihe franI cover cen be hand Don'l fuss trying lo gal a perfecI fil, as \here
lumed aller roughing oul using a ground off end of a file and a rest. This musI be a clearance for Ihe eompressor wheel
will produce s smooth fnish Ihal will not need further trealment. The ol around 0.1mm. Onoe Ihe recess lor Ihe
lapped holes for Ihe plaslic inlake #4 are nol drilled unlil it has been made eompressor is eompleled, Ihe 55mm stepped
and offered up. recess for Ihe from eover can be lurrned. Use a
nice sharp parling 1001 lo gel in lighl l nlo Ihe eomer here. Finally Ihe
oulside ol Ihe eone is machined as far aS can be acoessed and Ihe 'flange
8.0 Inlet cone #4 tor Ihe securing screws can 11I0W be formed. Make sure lo leave at leasl
3mm ol Ihe inlake end unmachined. This is importanI as il you need lo
Thls is machined Irom while ar blaek nylon rod - Nylon 6 or 66 has been make a smali machining clearance laler Ihe part can be inserted in Ihe
10llnd to be especially suilabie. Most grades are acceplable, as il does not chuek and careful lighl culs can be laken wilh Ihe ground off file.
14
The drilling spindle should now be sel up and your 6-slep indexing device The bearing lube is made Iram hard aluminilllm (HE30) and Ihe firsl
attached. The holes lor Ihe seroring screws can be centre-drilled and operatio!1l is to cul lo leng!h and lace bolh ends. Orill lhe hole Ihrough and
drilled to 2 .5mm dia. Be carelul when d ri lling out holes in nylon - il has a bore out lo 14mm all \he way through. Next carelully bore Ihe 16mm hole
nasty habil ot Irying lo wind !he part u p !he drill bil spiral, ralher than make lor Ihe lurbine end, to a lenglh ol 41mm. Ulse a 688 bearing as a Plug
a hlole In il! gauge - you need to make iŁ a sliding fil , nol 100 loose, nOI 100 lighl!
tf your dhuck is known to cenlre lainy accuralely wilh oulside jaws, fil Them using your made-up '1001 , machine lhe o-rimg groOve. Make smali
Ihese to your chuck and clamp Ihe Ironl eover in place and using Ihe same a~uslments l o al low Ihe ring 10 just prolrude enough 10 tightiy grip the
drilling sel-up and indexing jig, cenlre-drill Ihe six holes and drill oul lo bearing and yel slin allow il lo si ide. The bearing has lo be able lo move
2mm diameler. The 2mm holes can now be lapped lo M2.5 lor lhe ~nlel wilh Ihe pre-Ioad spring sa should not be 100 light. When happy wilh lhe fil ,
eone. The drilling and indexing !<iii cen nCIW be removed. machine lhe oulside profile lo I hal shown on the drawing Part #11 lo aboul
half way along the oulside.
The ocone is now refitted l o Ihe chuclk holding in reverse by the securing
Ilange, and the outside profile is carelully produced. You will need to For buill-up ngv' s - nole Ihe smali siep on Ihe end lo seal Part #24. Use
machine lhe profile carelully, taking light curts because (he work will nol be a rounded tool lo torm the 3mm radii which is non crilical. Do not drill Ihe
held very securely and is Iflexible at this later slage, The intake b ell lmouth 4><2.5 tapped holes allhis slage.
is forrned in the same way <lS Ihe compressor seating and Ihe oulside is
tumed to Imake a smooth curve Imatching the inlake side. The wall For casl ngv - tołlCIW Ih'e lower drawing lo sui I Part #35.
thickness is not critical and cen be left a reason<lble Ihickness unless an
especially lightweight engine is being conslrucled - be carelul nol to Wh€(1 compleled, remave Ihe shall lunnel tram Ihe chuclk.
overdo il howe'i'er and go I hrough Ihe side!
Next we need to make up a mandrel. Cul a 70mm minimum lenglh of mild
g,O Shaft Tunnel #11 steel ot around 19mm in diameler amii holding in Ihe dhUclk, prolruding al
leasl 45mm, lurn il down 1111 Ihe słl1aft lunnal will jusl push-fit onto Ihis.
To ensure thal lhe bali races do nol revolve al high rpm, the ouler ring ol Make sure il is a good finish before you try !his - il migIlII gel sluclk! (heal il
.,."". .. "
Ihe ball-races are seated in O-rings fitled in machined grooves in Ihe if il does j am amd ease ~ aft -gentlYl .
Ibearing area ol the shaft lunnel. TłI1ese
Push Ihe shall tunnel onlo !he mandrel and lurn the tronl bearing housing
' IProvide a Iriclion yel allow same
,.. and O-ring groove as betore. Take spedal cere lo ensure Ihe back ot Ihe
, . "~.'~.'-."~ )
- elemenlot give to allow the bearing to
take up its optimum operating position housing is absalulely square lo lhe fronl face. The bearing surfaces musi
not be a loose fil bul il should be possible lo genl~ si ide Ihe bearing inlo
\ ,I ,~ \ .,; w ithoul movement.
its housing wilh only very lighl pressure - Ihis is no płace fora press ar
. ,~
•~- inlerference-fil! The fronl bearing has lo be able lo be extracled wilhoul
The O-ring 'grooves are made with a
torce or Ihere is a danger ol the balls iin Ihe bali race falling oul when Ihe
:small inlemal bering bar hand ground to
.shape or <lltematively an old 5101 drill shall is removed!
can have its flutes ground away to leave <I single "too!h" ol 1.5mm wide
We have specified use of 1.5mm x 16mll1 O-rings. An allernative 15 lo use
and at ~east 1.5mm long (lor 1.5mm o-ring).
~ .5mm O-ring cord cul lo lenglh and inserted inlo Ihe groave which ·also
15
worked wall. I have tound a cord length ot S5mm works well . Do not cVna- tlush and square. It the spring wire i~ too thick it will bind on the shaft. It it
glue the ccrd ot you will get a hard spot on the ring. When as~embling the is l o thin it will not have sufficient compressive strength. We have tound
engine, make sure ~o use a smear ot silicone grease every time, to make that 1.Gmm (16g) i~ a ~uitable diameter to eim for. You should load the
disassennbly easier and less strain on those precious bearings. bearing to 101b. (4.5Kg) pre-Ioad and the spring size shown should reach
this point at 15mm compression tram 20mm tres length. A popular
The grooves are machined 50 I he O-ring is juS! proud ot the machined alternative for other applicatlons - ' Smalley" washers, are naw availeble in
aluminium. This l1IeMs careful checking and testing with a spare 688-size the 688 size but the mner diametar untortunately toul~ tha sl1laft Ihus
bali-race. The race should slip in with a squeeze ot the fingers - don't cennot be used hera.
torget the silicon grease! Tl1Ie ring cen be made thicker whel1l llsirlg cord,
by leaving it slightly over-Iong to hel p where the groove is a liltle over-size. 10.0 Combustion Cham'ber #13
The material is 'Cheap SD a number of spares cen be made up.
16
The lront and rear covers lor the cham ber must be accurately spun and Marking out the chamber inner and outer #16&17
litted with minimai gaps. Extra air entering through gaps, particularly at the These can be marked out by carelully scribing lines out on the metal to the
lront joints , spoil combustion and cause combustion to continue into the dimensions shown on the drawings - don't lerget the "TOP' marks .
ngv section making the engine run hot. Large gaps at the rear will rob the The hole centres are gently centre punched to stop the drill wandering
lront holes ol air and may be sufticient to stop the engine lrom running or when drilling the hole . You can also use the spare drawing ol the cham ber
lrom reaching its luli power.
':::0: o • included in the plan s and to glue it to the metal
o o. with "Scotch" spray mounting adhesive or a solid
Materials o •o adhesive such as "Pritt-Stick", and use as a
[ 0
o
0o"' • template. II using the template, the centres ol the
holes are also centre punched . These adhesives
The cham ber is made Irom stainless sheet. It has been lound in practice o •
that O.4mm is an ideal and readily available thickness. We have used both are hard to clean oft except with pure turpentine
316 and 304 grad es; both have proved eminently suitable. II using 316 the although a good soak in turbine luel also works!
ends will need to be annealed belore they are spun , by heating to red heat :0 o .
o • When all the holes have been punched the sheet
and allowing the material to cool down slowly . II using 304 this has not
been required . This thickness ais o has the merit ol being easily cut with :0 o 0"0
will be delermed by the punching . Do not Ilatten it
good quality tin snips. 0.5mm stainless has been used lor the rear ol the o 0° ,.
o •
o
o
at this stage .
combustion cham ber and has shown to be a stifter support lor the
o o Drilling the holes
.o
·:··..::
vapouriser sticks, il available. o
o'
17
An alternative to drilling the holes is to make a punch similar to the design The inner and outer can then be easily wrapped around a suitable lormer
that Terry Lee ol the GTBA (Gas Turbine Builders Association) published to curve into a neat tube.
in the GTBA newsletter. This can make the holes more cleanly and with
less distortion than drilling. Rolling to shape before countersinking
Cleaning up the burr from the underside of the holes. If you have access to a set ol bending rolls and preler to form into a tube
The metal is turned over and it is filed ar sanded using a smali drum lirst and then countersink, this is also straightforward . Terry Lee's design
sander in the laithlul "Dremel" drill, to remave the burrs . (left) for a smali bending roll, shown in
Ihe GTBA newsletter, is ideal lor aur
The slightly distorted shape will aid the job ol removing all the burrs . task:
The chamber inner and outer are led in
When complete between the rollers and the adjusting
the strips can screws tightened until they are bent to
be gently the correct radius . This will mak e nice
beaten fiat smooth curves and will be good
ready lor rolling practice lor making the oulside of the
to shape. engine. When rolled they can be tried
for lit in the end caps .
Welding 01 the cham ber is carried out wilh a simple spot welder. The
Forming the countersinks before bending. GTBA spot welder is ideal for stainless up to 2 layers ol l mm thick. The
welder is best litted with a timer because it is easy to blow holes in the
II you don't have a set ol bending rolls then the required countersinks in thinner materials il the we Id time is too long. Stainless steel should be
the chamber inner and outer can be pertorm ed while they are still Ilat, cleaned in the area to be welded with a light touch of the "Dremel" grinder
using a simple punch tool ground aft to 60' and forming into a 60' recess alan g the seam line. This will ensure a strong and eftective weld.
made using a centre drill. They can then be rolled by hand around a
suitable fa rm er belore welding. Forming the countersunk holes after forming into atube.
To keep the accuracy of the forming and The chamber inner and outer can be rolled into a tube that is a snug fit
stopping the countersink sloping aft to anto the chamber front (and rear in the case of the outer). The
one side, the die can alternatively be held countersinks in the ouler wrapper can be formed with Ihe use ol a 60'
in the 3-jaw chuck and the punch held in cone-shaped punch and a die in the lorm ol a piece ol sleel bar with
the tail-stock. Forming can then be matching hole lo punch into. The die is inserted inside. II the hole is
smoothly and accurately achieved by punched alittle smaller Ihan Ihe required size il can be drilled oul lo
simply winding in the tail-stock with the exactly the correcl diameter.
metal held in the tool.
18
Inner wrapper #16 eliminate any air leaks as it should not be necessary to take apart again .
When satisfied with the fit, we Id along the seam . If the cham ber inner and
The inner wrapper needs a slightly different approach if you have opted for outer turns out slightly non-concentric a smali adjustment can be mad e by
forming the countersinks after rolling. You will need a short punch inserted inserting a bar into the inner and bending in the required direction. Th is
crosswise in a length of 20mm diameter mild steel rod ar similar. You will flexes the chamber front 50 should be done carefully.
also need a steel rod drilled out at the end and shaped for the countersink
using a 60' centre drill. The drilled hole in the inner wrapper is located on Swirl Jets, Part #39
the short punch and the rod is hammered anto the punch. Again finish to These are an important part of the chamber
exact size by drilling out the holes if required. design and are the key to the combustion
cham ber working well at high airflow rates.
Welding the combustion cham ber inner to the chamber front. They consist of a hollow stainless turning . The
size of the hole in this part is the only real
The chamber inner fits over the in ner flange on the "tuning" that can be done with the engine.
front cap. You shou ld slip the cham ber in ner over the
smali flange and tack the seam with one spot and The jets replace an earlier version of the cham ber which had smali slits
check the fit. When satisfied tack the other end to which provided a flow of air into the front of the cham ber - if the slits are
form into atube. Tack the tube to the chamber front on your plan then replace them with a 3.8mm drilled hole. The jets replace
with a spot at one edge of the joint and check the fit. these slits and are installed at the same location. The jets are simply
Left shows a cham ber inner already countersunk, turned from stain less to the shape shown or alternatively can be made
being welded to the chamber front. from a piece of stainless tube 2.4mm bore x 15.5mm lon g tube with one
adllLJslme,nts to get the cham ber inner exactly at 90' to the cham ber end belled out slightly. If your tube outside diameter is different from
front, and place an opposite tack to hold in place. Then we Id two more 3.8mm , adjust the holes in the combustion cham ber outer to suit.
tacks at the 90' points and check all is square - any problems can be
cured easily at this point if required. A series of spot welds can then be To fix to the chamber, one edge of the jet is bent to an angle of about 45'
placed around the edge to seal the gaps. The seam along the cham ber and after cleaning around the hole, is inserted into the chamber wall. A
inner can now be spot welded all the way along . length of 2.4mm dia steel rod or piano wire of 13swg is inserted through
the jet to atotal depth of 30mm , whereupon the end (inside the cham ber)
Welding the combustion ehamber outer #17 should be positioned 10mm away from the edge of the cham ber in ner. The
rod and jet should then be angled forward until the rod touches the front
The chamber outer is spot welded into a tube wall of the cham ber. This is the correct position of the jet and a spot weld
which is a snug fit into the cham ber front - use should be placed between the angled tiange and the cham ber outer to
a couple of taeks and when satisfied with the hold it into place.
fit we Id along the seam. The chamber outer
should then be aligned 50 that the large When completed check the orientation and when satisfied do the same for
countersunk holes exactly intersect between the remaining five jets.
the countersunk holes in the cham ber inner.
This can then be carefully spot welded to a
close fit with the cham ber front be careful to
19
The jets should nawali be silver soldered drill to size. Deburr the holes and then repeat the process lor the air holes,
into place using a high temperature silver drilling out to 2mm. Alter drilling the holes should be carelully de-burred .
solder such as Easy-Flow 24. Use plenty ol
the appropriate Ilux and heat quickly. Vapouriser tubes #18
When cool, the rod can be inserted and The vaporiser tubes are made Irom thin walled stainless tubing that
:::~::.i:;"::~~" smali adjustments made to the jet angles il provide a heating surface lor
required . the lu el to Ilow over and
vapourise - hence their name.
The outer ends ol the jets can now be linished or liled into a neat and tidy
shape.
. They should be bent whilst still
in a long length as it
impossible to grip il already to size. Bend round a lormer with a
6mm thick, 40mm diameter disks Irom
The angle and position can be seen aluminium or steel (40mm as the tube
here at left viewed Irom the turbine ' springs" out alter bending).
end.
Bend to the shape shown left, using a
The inner ends ol the jets should end length ol steel spring slipped over the
up about 4mm away Irom the ends ol tube. This should be a good lit or the
the vaporizer tubes and slope 5-10' tube will readily kink. I lound spring sold
towards the lront. lor model loco springs to be ideal. An
alternative is to use "Woods" metal , a
very low melting point alloy. Fili the tube completely, make the bends and
then melt it out in boiling water alterwards . You will need about 1mtr
altogether lor the 12 sticks.
Combuslion chamber rear #19
Bend the whole length into a series ol
The chamber rear should be spun to the shape alternating "s" shapes so you can get a
shown on the plan and can be marked out good hold ol it and get the desired shape.
carelully and centre-punched lor the various ) Then lay it over the plan at the point
holes. I lound it easiest to do this directly on top • where the length lits best, and mark the
ol the plan and mark with a lelt pen . Do the ends at the dot!ed lines with a lelt marker
vaporizer holes lirst. lor the cu ts. This allows alittle extension
on each end to allow you to lorm the
Drill with a centre drill and lollow up with a Ilange and some adjustment lor total
4.8mm drill - use low speed and be carelul it length in the cham ber later.
doesn't snatch. Finally drill out with a 5.2mm
20
The tube can be easily cut with a smali hacksaw - an old blade is best, as Using Ihe flanging jig
it doesn't stick 50 easily. Use pull strokes alter startin g as the teeth will jam
otherwise, don't use cutting oil as it is hard to clean alf completely alter- A slick is inserted inlo Ihe jig by removing one ol the M5 screws and Ihe
woods and will prevent the spot welding working . When you have cut all slick end located into Ihe locating hole lo lock il inlo place.
the sticks out deburr the ends on your linisher ar belt sand er gently, and
clean up the inside ol the end s - a centre drill works well here, a smali Iile Alter replacing and lighIening Ihe M5 screws, Ihe
would probably also wark. end ol Ihe tube is spun over wilh a smali brass
slub held in Ihe loolholder. Wilh alittle praclice Ihis
Forming Ihe flange on Ihe vaporizer slick. can be easily achieved and don e in one pass .
The Ilange can be made by slitting Ihe end ol Ihe Genlly lap Ihe Ilange wilh a smali hammer
tube inlo 4 pelal shapes wilh poinled snips ar a alterwards lo lu lly Ilatten il down square. Repeal
jig can be made lo lorm a neal Ilange. Ihe proces S lor Ihe olher 11 slicks.
21
The vaporizer tubes should pass It you are making the gas generator version ot the engine for a tur1lo-prop
naall}' between the large or turbo-shaft you should fit both glow plugs. It wiR be impossible to start
countarsunk holes in the chamber the angine withoul using plug ignition aAd having two allows some
outer. The tube ends should end redundancy in the annoying event ot blowing one!
up 4mm away from the swirl jets
and in line with the jet ot air that The crest of the glowplug boss shou d be genUy rounded! to match the
Ihey produce. curvature of the ourer can of the englne. Tł1lis can be achieved ~ judicious
usa of a fine file or the linisher.
The completed assembly should
look as shown left. Fit to the NGV
The combustion chamber inner must be a srlUg fit into the inner core (#24)
You can weld some labs to secure the back ot the cham ber to tha rest ot ot the NGV rather than loose. The cham ber OlJter that slides over the
the Ghamber assembly. Altematively some stainless v.ire can be used to ou'tside ot the NGV (#23) must also fit well but should llIot be too tight a fit
wire-Iod< the end on. II has been found in the protolypes ~hat the two otherv.ise assembly will be difficult. Heat expansion can cause splilting if it
glowplug locations provide a positive locatlon Ipreventihg parts coming is 100 tight. The NGV may nead to be tlllrned down slighlly to fit the inner
apart. This has the added advantage that you can easily take them apart diamerer ot the combustion cham ber rear (#~ 9).
for observall on or cteaning if required . In addition the glowplug
altachmenls locate the combuster inside the outer case negating any 11.0 Fuelsopply
furlther fiddly fixlures. The main fuel pipe is made from
standard brass 2.4mm outside
Glow-plug boss"s Part #15
diameter tube as found in model
shops. Be caraful to get the drawn
po,sitiC)rls are shown on the drawing and you should
saamless variety 'so you don't get
k eep to these and work accurately. You leaks and anneal it all along by gently
should make and fil the two boss's even
heating lo red heat and allowing to
iif you do not wish to use a glowplug as cool. The pipework is silver soldered
Ihey provide the location and fixing for
togelher. The tt 2 injector needles are
I he combustiof1 cham ber. b.50mm old ~ypodarmic needles. For
the thruSt engine you can use O.60mm
If you do not inlend using a glowplug
o/d onas if your pump ts not very good and you cahnot reach maKi mu m
Ihen a pair of blanks should be made to
rev's. This gives a less controlled start but runs well.
enable the fixing to stil! work.
Ensllre your problem is not mechanical frrst!
Theshort lel1lgth of slainless rod for the glow plug ShOlAd be drilled and
lapped y."x32TPI whlch is the standard thread for glowplugs. They will
need to be silver soldered in position.
22
The luel distribution ring simply slips onto the Once the needles are soldered in place and the ring
chamber rear. Th is method does introduce an is joined, the assembly can be tested using gas to
element ol lu el pre-heating and this is lelt to be ensure that there are no leaks and that none ol the
desirable. needles are blocked.
Leli shows earlier ring with Iwo leed , now There should be an even height Ilame lrom each
simplilied to just one. needle. Thin luse wire may be uselul in removing
smali obstructions to even out the Ilame but easier
A luel distributor ring is made to the dimensions still , il you have a problem with any ol the needles
shown on the drawing Irom 3mm or 1/8" brass they can be re-heated and pulled out with pliers . The
tube. resulting hole leli will lit the needle nicely and a new
one can be inserted and soldered.
23
Adapter Part #32
Material
The Ihreaded fittings, part1l36 are fixed with brass adapters which retain
them and provide easy access around the inlet eone mounting flange, to The shaft for this engina will not need hardening. We recommend using
screw in a 3mm 'Festo' type or similar push-fit mai e fittings. lf preferred the En24T grade steel in its supplied form. The prototypes have IlUn to high
adaptsrs can be omitted and 3mm "Festo" female typa fitnngs can be rpm wilh this material withoLlt any problems.
screwed on to Part#36 directly, but a relief will have lo be trimmed from
the edge ot the in et eone mounting flange lo elear !hem. Machining the shaft
12.0 The shaft #1.2 If you ·are lo a'tternpt makirng the shall on a lathe you must have sharp
tools preferably wifh indexed tips. En24T is tough but straightfOfWard to
Oesign machine. A supply of cutting fluid is pre/erable but if possible use a high
sulphur oil to dissipate the heat, paying spedal regard l o adequate
ventilation ~o avoid build-up ot tumes. The first task i s to out the blank to
lel1lgth and face the ends. Both ends need oentre drilling and all tuming
mlJlst be carried out batween centres, preferably without removing the
The shaft is exceptionally short and Ihis has enabled the angine to run shaft until completion. The shoulder of each diameler should be formed
safety to high speeds withOiJt distortion. The early prototype 'erngines had
with a Smali radii lo avoid slress poinls.
the compressor mounting hole slightly enlarged trom 6mm to 6.3Smm Qf Tum the outside to +O.Smm
X ", achieved by the ~se ot a machine reamer. This gave a stiffer shaft oversize; (this will enable a
overhang. In lests Ihis has been tound unnecessary and we have reverted finał finishing cul to be taken
to the 61111m o/d mounting tor the oompressor. ifhe compressor and the after the bearing suńaces have
turbine are seeured with a 6mm left-hand thread. Righl hand threads been machined). The bearing
cannot be substituted here as the torque trom the turbine will unscrew the shoulders are lurned leaving
nut and release either the compressor er turbine witł1l disastrous Ihe baaring surface +O.2Smm
consequences. oversize. Turn Ihe shoulder for
Ihe compressor at the right
Workmanship hand end and finish to size.
You will find it easier to get a
Shafts appear simple lo make, but they demand exceptional care with close fil for Ihe hole by luming
tuming even when turrned between centres. Cylindrical suńace grinding almost lo size and then using a fine cut file lo smocth out Ihe machin ing
wift give the best results and allow a batter fit for the bearings if this is
marks and the last few 0.001 mm. You 'could purchase a clockmakers pivot
available. Bearings should not be a tight fit and require the use ot an file which can be used to 'oblain a high polish lo the surface.
extractor. They should be a gentle sliding fit Ihat can be removed with the
fingers. The special 688 size ceramie cageless baarings are assembled in Bearing ·surfaces.
one direction and cen come apart it disassembling !he engine wlthout The bearing suńace can be turned next in a similar fashiort Be careful
care. Screw-{;lJ! threads generally pl"oduce a better finish than a die and about marking the suńace of the finishe<ll seclions with the lathe dog -
are less tikely lo dislort the shaft. always use a scrap of brass or soft aluminium lo prolecI tł1em .
24
The bearing should be a sliding lit and should not be loose. However it steel threading tool ground to 60' lor the metric thread engage the leed
must not need lorce to push it on or aft the spindle. We recommend that screw ready to cut the thread . Always use a handle ar same means to turn
you have same standard (cheap!) 688 bearings to use to check bearing lit. the lathe spindle by hand to avoid damaging the wark. This method will cut
The ceramie bearings should be kept as clean as pass ibl e belore the screw with the minimum ol lorce on the shaft. Reverse the shaft again
installation and you wouldn't want to have to retrieve a load ol tiny ceramic and thread the compressor end . II you have to use a die, then hold aft
balls that have dropped out ol a bearing push-lilted too tightly! linishing the centre body ol the shaft lor the moment.
Ease the diameter down to a nice lit with oiled 1200 grade emery paper Finishing the centre body
wrapped round a Ilat piece ol metal. Do not wrap the paper round the shaft
- it will grab and take your lingers round with iti The centre body of the shaft is given a skim down to size after making
sure with a dial indicator that the bearing surfaces are truly concentric with
The t h readed portion the centres. You can finish with a line cut lile ar a piece alllat steel
wrapped with 1200 grade emery and oiled , to get a polished linish.
The step down lor the M6 thread can be turned to size naw. Cut a smali
lead at the Iront ol the shaft to help the thread start. Using a line round- Threading w ith a die
nose tool , cut a smali run-aft lor the thread about l mm wid e and 0.5mm
deep. Don't cut the actual thread until the other end ol the shaft is ready. If you have to use a die lor threading then remave your centre lrom the
The tapered shoulder is turned next - simply set your top-slide over to the chuck or head-stock and hold the shaft as accurate as you can in your
correct angle and take smali cuts. chuck. Lock the chuck using whatever means you have. Use a hand die-
stock, held square by gentle pressure Irom the tail-stock . Apply culting
Turbine end Iluid and start the thread (don't lorget it's a left hand thread!!). By rotating
the die as opposed to turning the shaft any inaccuracies ten d to be
The shaft can naw be reversed and the turbine end machined. The turbine minimized . Finish the thread up to the shoulders. Finally set up your
wheel seat should be turned to size in the same way as the compressor. centre at the head-stock end again and skim the centre body ol the shaft
You may l ind that drilling and reaming a hole in a piece ol scrap steel, wit h down to size - see above lor details.
the same reamer you plan to use lor your turbine, will be an accurate way
of gauging the correct diameter for the hole in the wheel. Alternatively - Once complete you will lind that however you have made the shaft that it
make good use ol your micrometer. The seat should be nicely polished . will be very slightly out ol balance . II is only possible to detect the lorces at
Finally, turn the 6mm diameter lor the turbine nut with a smali sloping lead each end ol the shaft using a very sensitive balancer ol the type that Tom
as belore. Finally turn the tapered shoulder as belore and we are ready lor Wilkinson describes in the GTBA newslelter.
threading .
The threads at each end are best screw-cut in the lathe il you can . Set up
the change wheels lor the thread and be sure to check that the travel is for
left hand. Old Myford lathes can cut metric threads with 42 and 21 tooth
change wheels . See Myford handbook lor details. Using a high speed
25
Making the compressor spin ner #1 Making the ngv inner #24 (fabricated ngv's only)
The ngv in ner is a simple lurning tram slainless sleel. The ideal grade is
This is made tram a nice hard aluminium in one operalion. The cross-hole 310 bul any similar grades are ok. Slart wilh a block 3Bmm diameler and
is drilled firsl after accuralely setting up in a drill machine. The rod is Ihen aboul 30mm long. Chuck Ihe block, tace aft, and lurn Ihe inside end firsl lo
held in Ihe lalhe and Ihe end ot Ihe rod is taced aft and drilled lo lake Ihe relain concenlricity. Cenlre Ihe end and bore oul lo 22mm i/d tor a depth ot
lap lo cul Ihe Ihread inside it. The M6 left hand Ihread is cul using cutting 20mm. Then lurn Ihe recess lo a deplh ot 6.5mm and i/d ot 32.Bmm lo fil
nd
compound and il is necessary lo use a plug as well as a 2 ar laper lap lo over Ihe combuslion cham ber inner (#16). Turn Ihe 30' chamter inside and
gel Ihe Ihread righl lo Ihe end. oulside and Ihe lighled portion lo Ihe shape on Ihe plan.
The oulside ot Ihe spinner is lurned lo shape lo su~ Ihe diameler ot Ihe Next sel up your drilling spindle and a 4-way indexing device. The
boss on the compressor. II is lapered and rounded and parted aft caretully mounling holes can naw be cenIred and drilled lo 2.5mm on a 26m m pcd.
ensuring Ihe seal is dead square and wilh Ihe smallesl pip possible. The Part Ihe componenl aft lo a lenglh ot 17.5mm and reverse in Ihe chuck.
spin ner can be mounled on a previously Ihreaded rod lo com piele Ihe Face aft lo 17mm long o/a and bore Ihe 35mm i/d recess lo a lenglh ot
rounding ot the end using a fine file. Use fine emery paper and while spiril 9mm. The compleled part is naw slipped over Ihe shaft lunnel and Ihe
lo polish lo a nice smoolh finish . The spinner musI run dead lrue ar Ihe mounling holes spotted through and finally drilled 2.05 and lapped M2.5.
engine will howl as a resu~ ot imbalance and Ihe tronl bearing will sufter. It
il runs oul don'l mess wilh il, make anolher! Bearings #43
We have specified Ihe 06BB/602 976, tuli complemenl ceramic bearings
Making the turbine nut #27
tram GRW.
This is made tram hexagonal slainless 316 bar and is simply taced, drilled These are Ihe only bearings Ihal we
and Ihreaded as tor Ihe spinner (don'l torgel ifs a left hand Ihread!) and
know ot Ihal are suilabie tor
parted aft. prolonged running al 160,000rpm.
Therearspacer#26 The prolotype engines have been
The rear spacer is between Ihe rear bearing and the lurbine. This part, as run tor many hours up lo high
tor Part#2 , needs lo be made wilh accuralely machined taces Ihal are speeds tree ot bearing problems.
exactly paralleI. When lesling Ihe firsl prolotype we
did have a tailure when using a
The malerial can be any easy lo machine sleel su ch as mild ar silver sleel. slandard caged 6BB sleel bearing.
The spacer is machined tor Ihe oulside and drilled and bored lo Ihe final The bearing was being adequalely lubricaled bul Ihe cage simply opened
finished size. II is lhen parted aft and Ihen checked between Ihe calipers ot up and released the balls.
Ihe vernier gauge ar micromeler. II should jusl slip Ihough and nol bind al
any point. It il does Ihen ił will need lo be rubbed down by hand on a hard We slrongly urge Ihe builder not lo attempI lo run wilh slandard bearings
tlal sIane such as an Arkansas sIane ar on a piece ot fine cul wet and dry even Ihough Ihe law cosl ot Ihe slandard bearings may be attraclive, you
emery paper glued anIa a tlal surface. By applying pressure on Ihe side ot will barely gel aboul idle speed betore certain tailure. When aur early
Ihe spacer thal binds ił is easy lo remave jusl enough malerial lo make Ihe bearing tailed Ihe shaft seal acled as a shaft saver and damage was
spacer exactly paralleI. minimai apart tram having lo remake Ihe shaft seal.
26
13.0 The Compressor #3 Make up a plastic template ot lhe profile required, using the plan. Set up a
turning rest on your toolpoSI, positioned as dose as you cen to the wheel.
TOO aim ol too design was to utilise tOO largest amount ol air that could be
delivered from the smallest Wear your satety glasses tor the next part, as a lot of little bils are spread
compressar. around! Select ·a ~at file thal mas had a nose radius ot about amm ground
onlo it with atouch Gt clearance angle. Using the file and with the lathe
ifhis has proved en ambitious running nice and tast, gently trim the compressor to the new profile. Take
aim, as the high throughput very slll1all 'scraping cuts so you don'l bend the blades, and atm lor a nice
wheel Is very intolarant ol the smooth finish. The templale should be offered up to the wheel trom lime to
turbine wheel, NGV and time. Note, it needs to be turning for the Irue profile to be sean , 50 watdh
diffuser angles. your fingers while you're doing this!
Once you are happy with the shape the wheel can be removed trom the
Garrat 446335-09 Garrat 446335-1 O mandrel. Al !his point it is most likety out ol balance and this will need to
be done betore it can be used in runhing in the 'el1lgine.
TOO Garrett 448335-09 1'25 compressor chosen (see above left) has an
inlet 'diameter ol 3B.6mm compared 10 the overall diameter ol 54mm C'54" 14.0 The outer tase #21
is where the angine gats it's MW54 name). The ptototypes have been
tested wilh this wheel, a larger inlet variant ol lhe Garrett wheel (446335- The design is aimed at allowing lhe home builder to make more ol the
10) and a compressor wheel Irom KKK. engine it he dhooses and lo retain the compact dimensions ol the unit
ovarall.
TOO design has been optimized lar (he Garrett "09' size wheel and lhat is
the wheel we slilggest. 'The Garrett compressor needs no otOOr The Gase is made trom OA-mm !hick, stairlless steel , rdlled Into :shape and
modlfications bUt may Jlleed accurate electronie balanoing. AS this "09" is the seam spot welded. YGU MUST be able to produce a geod quality spot
an expeJllslve wheel we ha~e used the larger "1 b" size trimmed down tor weld, as ~his Is a pressure vassel.lt has lo lbe able to stand at least 1.5 bar
the prototype engines and this was 10UAd very suocessful - in faet this is above atmospl1ere. We have speeilied IWo rows i n order to incorporate
how manufacturers make their smaller sizes. For same reason the larger plenty ol strength into this important component.
size is a lot ehaaperL
An alternative to the wrap around case made trom sheet is to find a vessel
Re·profiling the "10" size eornpressor ot the correct diameter and leng!h in Ihe Cookware Oept. ot a local
hardware stare. We have not cerried out an exhaustive dheck ot oil t11ters
It you obtain tha ' 10" size you will need to trim it to size. Remember to do bUt there may be one that has ,a casing that is close to lhe required
this belore making the inlet eorlle so it cen Ihen be made to maleh your diameter. If you use a case that is 100 larllle then !he effect ol Ihe cooling
profile. First mount a length ol sleel rod in !he lathe and tum it to be a nice holes in the combustion dhamber may be dhanged so it not advised at tl1is
firm fit for the c:ompressor. The compressor can be gently pressed on and stage.
we are ready to trim.
27
Making the outer case Assembly to the case - marking lixing holes
The sheet lor the outer case is carefully marked out lirst, not lorgetting the Using a compass , draw a circle ol gOmm diameter on a sheet ol paper.
glowplug positions and cut out with tin snips . It is ideally and effortlessly Then with a protractor, mark out on the circle, lines at 60' to each other
rolled into shape using the GTBA rolls or similar. The case needs to be and passing through the centre point and extending out about 10mm
made a tight lit over the lront cover and rear case ol the eng ine. When beyond the periphery.
ready, the area ol the weld should be thoroughly cleaned with a green
kitchen scourer. The case can then be carelully positioned over the circle and index marks
placed with a scriber in line wit h the lin es on the paper. A pair ol dividers
Welding can then be used to accurately mark the distance in Irom the end. The
One spot weld at each end is then made to check crossed marks can then be gently centre punched .
the accuracy ol the lits. The lit at the Iront can be
looser than at the back as the O-ring is intended to Orilling for fixings
seal the case here. When satislied with the lit, the
case can be spot-welded along the seam by It is best to drill the two parts together by drilling the tapping size drill right
running a line ol large spaced spots about 20mm through . The holes can now be tapped lor the securing screws - use
apart and then going back and welding the space cutting compound . Finally a clearance drill can carelully be used to open
in between . This will help to minimize distortion. out the holes in the out case. The lixing screws can be smeared with
thread-Iock and screwed in lirmly. They will not need removing again.
The joint must have two rows ol closely spaced
spot welds along the length . II the joint is placed towards the underside ol Sealing
the eng ine it will not be noticeable. A thin smear ol car exhaust gum such
"Holts Firegu m" (available Irom Hallords and other motorists stores) along An air and oil tight seal can be obtained by smearing high temperature
the seam will help ensure the seam remains gas tight. Silicon can be used silicon sealer or exhaust sealing gum around the inside ol the rear case
but the tail end ol the engine can get very hot under certain circumstances connection to the outer case. This goes off quickly 50 once on do not
and the seal might de-compose and start leaking . "play" with it Only a smali amount should be used as it expands when
heated. This has been used as the method ol sealing the prototypes and
Case rear #22 has been very successlul.
The rear case lor the engine is turned lrom either a piece ol 6mm thick The front cover is mad e as part ol the diffuser assembly and can be
mild steel plate or stainless and the centre hole should be bored lor a snug marked using the same system as lor the end . The case is drilled 2.5mm
lit to the NGV. The steps can be machined out with a boring bar. The outer clearance size alter carelul measurement ol the main eng ine assembly .
diameter can be turned to allow the case to be a tight lit. Belore removing The assembly is litted into the case, orientated carelully, and then the drill
lrom the lathe the 3mm holes lor the eight NGV screws can be drilled is used to "spoI" the lixing screw positions. The engine assembly is then
using a dividing attachment and a drilling spindle . The rear case can be removed and the Iront cover removed and drilled lor the tapping size lor
removed lrom the chuck and eased into the outer case, aligning carelully the lixing screws. It is uselul at each stage ol assembly, to have marks to
with the end . There is no need lor the end to be removed Irom now on 50 show orientation as although parts should be able to be rotated and still lit
a tight lit is ok. - sod's law will intervene to ensure this is not the case!
28
U5.0 i1"liIe turbinewheel #25 The wheel is eased inlo Ihe hole in !he blank unii! Ihe rim al Ime rool of Ihe
blades resls against Ihe back of Ihe t ecess. The ring can naw be attached
This is available as a cast item and we used 4 M5x12mm long screws and genlly nipped up squarely. The wheel
have spent much time del/etoping the should now be held firmly for Ihe inside face of Ihe hub lo be machlned
profile and optimizilllQ the engine to match square.
the wheel. The material is Inoonel 713c
and is extremely tough to withstand this Machining the turbine wheel
exacting duty.
We have !ested aur cas! wheels to higher Use a new lip in your lippedl 1001 and running !he lalhe al around 25Orpm,
speeds than antiaipated to be used on the carefully face aft lhe hub. Using a new BS2 ar 6mm centre drill, ~refully
engine, withoolł any problems. It is drnl Ihe cenira. Technically, using 'cutting oil oughl to make il easier lo oul
important that the top ·speed of 160K is not bullhis is nol always ~rue in practice wilh Ihese difficull and lough metals -
exceeded. As usual the wheels are caSI lo il can make !he drih slide inslead of cut. When the hole MS been cenired
aerospace slandards \\Iilh fuli x-ray lesling. you need lo drill ready for fil1lal bering lo size.
The wheel can be oblalned from Wren Turbines wilh Ihe hole reamed lo Drilling and reaming the centre hole
1/4". Wheels cen also be dbtained with Ihe hole bored if you wish to do
IhiS yourself. The hole musi be square tothe wheel , perfectly ool1llred and elCactly 1/4" in
diameter, a lough lask. II is usual lo finish the hole lo size wilh a reamer
Making the tuming f1xture after running through with a smali boting 1001 lo ensure petfect ceniering.
To bore your lurbine wheel , you will need a fixture lo hold Ihe wheel Drilling muSI be dane using a lough drill bil - ordinal)! higtł-speedl-sleel is
setureły and perfectly square. This cen be made from an aluminium blank nrn up lo il and Ihe dnll edges win wear aft befote il has gone halfway in
of 75mm x 10mm Ihick ·and a t ing of75mmx6mmx33mm i/d. the hole and will jam. Ideally a solid carbide ar cobaR slub drill, preferably
wilhout twisl, is Ihe ,anS\\ler. Having oblained your drill (one size ,down from
Hold the ring In Ihe chuck and face off. Using lhe dlrilling spindle and the finished sizel fit it lo Ime lail-Slock firmly and running nice and slow drill
dividing attachmenl drill 4 holes al 5mm dia on a 64mm PCD. IRemove the hole. Keep Ihe pressure up Ihroughoul the out. If you ease aft Ihe
from Ihe chuck and hol d Ihe Ihicker blank in Ihe chuck and using Ihe same malerial work-hardens and thal \\lin be !he end of your expensive drill-bit!
drilling and dividing selup, drill 4 holes al 4.2mm diameler lo 8mm deep,
on Ihe 'same PCD. The drilling and dividing seltlp can naw be removed If you are lucky Ihe hole will be dead centre and oni y need reaming lo fina I
size. If 50 then use same cutting compound and running the latihe dead
The 4 .2mm holes should naw be lapped M5. A mole of 30mm diameler slow run lhe reamer Ihrough. If you are unlucky Ihe hole will have gone aft
shOuld naw be borecl righl Ihrough - be careful you don'l run inlo your centre due lo Ihe drill bending. If 50 you will have lo bere Ihe hole unlil it is
chudk! Then lum a reoess of 5mm deep lo Ihe oulside diameler of Ihe square and Ihen ream lo size. The lurbine can naw be removed.
wheel. The wheel should be a sliding fil into Ihis recess, 50 keep chedking
Ihe fit as you gel to size. The wheel is fitted wilh the inside face facing Out.
29
Facing oft the (rear face ot the turbine Welding the seam
The turbine needs the outside hub ~ace squaring olf arnd trimming ·to Use a TIG (or Plasma if you have onel ) welder witha 0.6mm stainless
length. Make up a sleel stub mandrel to hołd the whleel maklng il a smlg fil welding rod and 1.6mm lip. Back Ihe inside of the ring with asIasi tube 'Dr
and face cM as before using lhe tipped tool. Machine enough to get the bar to allow the shlelding gas to collect and prolect the inside face from
length down to 12mm front to back. 1J"he ~urbine should be running straight oxidation. Make taek at each end of lhe seam first and then weld "trom the
with lillle or no wobble. II will need balancing however and we will tackle ouler edge inwards. When cool, Glean up as required and check for
this later. There should be no need to skim tme outer diameter until we are circularily. If requlred pop the ring in !he lathe and lrue up the turbine end
able to assemble the angine. We will then have the turbine on the shaft dead square.
and II can be hel d between centres for trimming then.
Cutting the ngll slots
16.0 Nozzle Guide Vane
The paper slrip can now be sluck to the oulside and the curved slots cut.
Built-up version These are the hardest part althrugh it is possible lo do them with Ihe
· Dremel" and a 20mm dis!< eutter. Carefully grind oul the profile and dean
The flgv can be made up using fabrication techniques although it's smali up any burrs lhat occur.
size and need for specialized TIG or Plasma welding equipment make this
prospect of limited interest to many turbine builders in our experience. One Guide van es
of Ihe most difficult elements is Ihe accurate cutting of Ihe tight curves for
the vanes in the ngll outer. To hel p support the builder keen on !his Nexl the vames thermselves can be tackled. Make a master vane from
elemer1\l of construction we are arranging for pre-cut oomponents to be 0.8mm 310 stainless sheel, mark il with manking blue for identificalion.
made available soon whictll will only require assembly and welding for Make the vane abeut 3mm deeper than lhe drawing to allaw for the inner
completion. The plan contains a patiem for !he cutfing out of the Agv vane diameter to be 'ground to size when they are welded in place and to allow
which cen be used to stick onto yoursheet material. We have found 3W the ouler edge to prolrude about 1mm to weld down onto. The 13 vanes
stairiless to work well for this component and iit 15 relatively easy to work can naw be sCllibed anto a slrip of material and cut out using snips. Check
with. each with your master and trim/grind to shape as reqlllired.
Turbine shroud A. jig is required lo aid !he location of Ihe vanes in the shroud. Thls is
simply made from a block ot aluminium 60mm dia x 30mm 1011lg. Hold in
Start by cutling the sheet to the size shown on the plan - don't stick the the chuck so 24mm is protruding. Turn !he outside diameter to a snug fi! in
lemplate on jus! yel I foul1ld il best to make il atouch longer and trim it to a your tlirbine shroud lo a length of 23mm. Then tum a step of diameler
perfect m. Use 2mm sheet and cut oul using a bench shear if you have 35mm to a length of 15mm. This will form the seat for the vanes to rest
accass lo one, ar a hacksaw if you don't. Using a selof bending rolls, form upon when being welded. A lapped hole ot about M5 can now be pul into
Ihe slrip into a neat ring and check Ihe internal size. We want lo gel Ihe the centre of the blank. A. steel dis\< of 57 diameter mm by abeut 2mm
internal diameter to just over 5Smm , so file Ihe end until you reach !his thick with a 5mm hole in the centre, should be made which will hol d the
dimension. turbine shroud onto the ·aluminium form er.
30
Shielding/backing gas edge towards the centre to minimize distortion - don't forget the backing
gas. Aim to just melt down the protrusion 50 it sits reasonably, don't keep
A smali hole should be drilled into the disk to which shielding gas should heating as you will cause it to sag on the inside. When cool remove from
be fed to protect the inside of the ngv's whilst they are being welded. If this the aluminium former and inspect. To remove you sometimes have to
is not don e severe oxidation occurs, and the metal bubbles up in and al most ' unscrew' the assembly as the vanes stick on the centre step .
around the van e roots. Hopefully your ngv will look good and there will be no blowholes! The
aluminium former should now have the centre step turned down a couple
Ngv flange of mm to enable it to slide on and off without sticking on the vanes , as we
need it again nex!.
Take the opportunity to make the ngv flange nowo This is made form
2.5mm mild steel. Obtain this in the form of a square plate about 100mm Welding the flange
square, which can have four holes drilled to each corner and simply
screwed to a plywood back-plate mounted on the lathe faceplate. Make The flange now needs to be welded to the turbine shroud . We still need
this back-plate at least 18mm thick as we can use it to machine the ngv the inert backing gas 50 the shroud can be replaced onto the former and
assembly later. The in ner diameter for the turbine shroud can be bored the end cap attached and gas supply rigged up. The ngv flange can be
out, making it a snug fit as it will help to keep the turbine shroud circular. offered up into place, any ngv welds protruding too much can be carefully
Leave the rest of the plate square for now as when welding it hel ps to stop fil ed down flush . When the flange can be eased into the position shown on
distortion creeping in . the plan, we can get ready for welding .
Welding the vanes The flange should only be welded on the ngv vane side . Turn on your
backing gas and position the flange in place, and using a 0.8mm mi/d
The aluminium form er can be slotted in and the vanes can now be offered steel welding rod or MIG wire, place a spot-weld to hold it. Check carefully
up to the 510tS, cut in the ngv shroud. The slots may need opening up in to ensure it is square and tack the opposite side in the same way. Check
places to enable them to be inserted fully. The former will show when they again for correct alignment and do two more tacks in between the other
have been inserted far enough. Remember we want about 1mm protruding two 50 it is now tacked on all four ' corners'. Welds should now be
out. positioned in between the previous tacks . When done the flange can now
be weld ed fu lIy.
When ready, turn on your inert backing gas supply. This should be 100%
Argon (same as on your TIG welder) and only a gentle flow is needed, just Use of a mild steel welding rod is unusual but allows the we Id to be
enough to be felt emitting from around the vanes. Use a screw-down valve achieved at much lower temperature than the stainless and therefore
er similar to control flow. Set up the complete assembly in a vice and using causes much less distortion of the flange and the turbine shroud. When
your TIG torch and 0.6mm stainless welding wire, place a spot we Id at the the flange has be en welded fully and cooled it can be removed from the
beginning and end of each vane. When done, remove the steel disk to former.
reveal inspect the vanes inside. Most likely a few will have moved out of
alignment, these can easily be bent back into place.
When you are happy they are all aligned as best as you can, the steel end
cap can be replaced , and the vanes welded up fully. Weld from the outside
31
Machining the ngv assembly Leave an abulmenl lo slop Ihe chamber being pushed on 100 far. Finally
lurn a neal45' chamfer lo aid gas flow.
To ensure concenlricity, Ihe ngv assembly should all be machined in one
selling. Use Ihe plywood faced faceplale used earlier and bore a hole lo a Orilling for the fixing screws
snug fil wilh Ihe welded vane side of Ihe ngv. Hopefully you will find your •
original allach ing screw holes slill line up and Ihe lurbine shroud will run The ngv can now be oftered up lo Ihe rear case from Ihe inside, and Ihe
Irue. If nol, your objeclive is lo make Ihe lurbine shroud run as Irue as you fixing screws posilions carefully marked Ihrough from Ihe oulside. After
can! cenlre drilling using a smali poinl cenlre drill, Ihe 2.5mm lapping size drill
can be run Ihrough and Ihe holes lapped for Ihe M3 fixing screws. And
When done and held secure, Ihe lurbine shroud should be skimmed oul lo Ihal's Ihe ngv done!
55.2mm maximum inlernal diameler, and Ihe oulside lumed down lo
58mm . Now using a nice sharp boring 1001 we can gingerly bore oul Ihe The Cast NGV
vanes lo 37mm i/d. This is quile easily achieved and only requires Ihal you
are palienl and don'l lake oft 100 much al a lime (O.1mm or 50). Use Ihe For many builders Ihe casl ngv will be Ihe main roule lo complelion of Ihis
power feed and aim for a few dozen culs! componenl. The casling may be lurned al a slow speed using a nice sharp
lipped 1001.
Keep oftering up Ihe ngv inner Part #24 lo check progress and aim for a
genile sliding fil. I finish Ihe hole by pulling a very slighl, one degree laper Machining the casting - rear face
opening oul lowards Ihe combuslion chamber. This helps lo slop Ihe ngv's
gripping Ihe inner part lighlly and dislorting Ihe lurbine shroud. As Ihe gas
enlering Ihe ngv is always holler (and Iherefore grealer expansion of Ihe
vanes) Ihan Ihal exiling Ihis seems lo make sense, anyway ił works in
praclice!
The flange can now be squared oft and Irepanned oul using a parting 1001.
~r.
('
.
, -
The casling should be held gently in Ihe chuck
wilh Ihe lurbine shroud facing oulward. Check
Ihal Ihe mounling flange is running reasonably
Irue and adjusl if necessary. The cenlre hole can
be bored firsl lo 20m m diameler lo malch Ihe
shaft lunnel, and Ihe area around Ihe cenlre
Cul in 1mm or 50 firsl and keep checking on Ihe diameler as we wanl Ihis machined lo Ihe profile shown.
lo be a nice fil inlo Ihe recess in Part #22. When you have cul righl
Ihrough Ihe oulside diameler will be very sharp. Clean Ihis up genilyon The meresl Irace of malerial should be skimmed
your linisher. oft !he inside of Ihe lurbine shroud lo make il circular. Aim for no more
Ihan 55.2mm ild.
The lurbine shroud can now be gently gripped in Ihe chuck and Ihe rear
face of !he flange skimmed fial and a cleaned up. If you are concerned Carefully face oft Ihe rear face of Ihe mounling flange and lurn Ihe oulside
aboul weighl Ihe flange can be Ihinned down lo aboul 1.5mm Ihickness diameler lo 76mm lo malch Ihe recess lurned in Ihe case rear (#22).
now if required . Ali Ihal naw remains is lo ski m Ihe oulside diameler down
lo malch your combuslion chamber end - il should be 58mm, check lo see The lurbine shroud oulside diameler will Ihen require Iruing up lo ensure
and lurn lo fil. Any Irimming should only exlend far enough lo enable Ihe concenlricity wilh Ihe inner and lo gel Ihe diameler down lo 58mm.
edge of Ihe ngv lo align wilh Ihe inner face of Ihe chamber end.
32
Machining the casting - front face 17.0 Assem'b ling the Engine
The ngv cen be reversed and ~ gripped The sequence ot assembling a gas turbine is a varied as łhere are days in
on the mounting !lange and !he inside cen be the week. but for those building their first engine we ofter our version.
cleaned up. Check the centering and turn the
combustion chambet seating to the correct Firstly it is vitally important that all parts are spotlessly elean before
leng\h and diameter. assembly. 'Thete is no point having a neat system ot filtering air lor the
bearings if tme tunneł is fuli of muGk belore you even start! Gasoline is
Olter the charnber end up to check the fil - the useful here as it will evaporate easily and is a geod degreaser - watch out
object being to enable a smooth transition though irs very inflammable! lLay alł the turbine parts on elean sheets ol
between the inside ot the chambar and the kitt::hen roll and elean each piece mełhodicelly. Rigmt let's start!
ngv.
Start by fitting the filter cover #9 to tlle rear ol' the diftuser (#7), don't lorget
When salisfied machine the 30' sloping lead-in, both inside and 0lJt. Then the smali tab to seoure the lube l ine (leave this loose for the moment). The
machine out the recess shown to lighten up the centre section. lubricelion line and its tube end ifitting (#36), cen naw be fitted and the
smali tab lor :securing it cen be soldered to the pipe with 50ft solder, using
Drilling for the fixing screws a high wattage iron. Tlle filter screws (#42) can all now be fitted, use a
spot ol screw locking compound on the screw threads to stop them coming
The ngv cen now be offered up to the rear cese trom the inside, and the undone.
fixing screws positions caretully
marked throUlgh from the The Iront O-ring (#45) can now be fitted to the shaft tlilnnel (#11) - use a
oulside. geod srnear ol silicol1l grease here. The Iront bearing (#40) may naw be
litted. Look lor łhe narrow lace on the inner race, this s'hould face inwards
After centre tlrilling using a towards the turbine end. l ubricate the outer race with a smear ol silioon
smali point centra drill, the grease and slide in the bali-race genUy.
2.5mm tapping size drill cen be
run through ,and the holes A smali smear ol Iit:juid gal/ket sealing compound can now be pUlt on the
tapped tor the M3 fixing screws. shaft tunnel/diftuser mating face and the two parts broughł together. Fit the
shaft seal (#5) into place and caretulły align with mating marks. Serore the
That's łhe cast ngv done! three items together with the six fixing screws (#44) and tighten evenly.
The pre-Ioad spring (#10) can now be fitted , use the usual smear ol
grease. Fit tha rear O-ring (#45) and then Slide in !ha greased pre-<load
tube carelully over the O-ring.
The turbine bearing (#40) cen be fitted with the narrow part ot fhe inner
You've worked hard so here's a picture of Terry Lee (our draftsman) starting his race tacing inwards. The rear spacer (#26l (slope tacing inwards) and
MW54 & piane! turbine wheel (#25l can now be fitted to the shaft (#12). Grip the shaft
33
gently in a vice lined with 50ft jaws or 50ft aluminium and using a tommy- that the sticks end s should align ~h the outlet of the swirt jets (#39) about
bar gently tighten the turbine nut (#27). Don'! overdo this, it's not a lorry 4mm away. Mark the ''TOP'' location with a suitable mark using an
wheel nut! engraver or cutting disk in the trusty "Dremel". If any adjustments are
needed to any sticks they can be gently bent into position using a length of
Apply a smear of silicon grease to the bearing and gently slide the shaft steel rod inserted into each end of the stick and bent in the appropriate
into the shaft tunnel. Slide on the front spacer (#2) on the front end of the direction. Aim for the centre of the sticks to be on a circle of 54mm, smali
shaft folIowed by the compressor (#3) and finally the compressor nut (#1). variations of 1mm or 50 are not critical. The sticks should end up 8-9mm
Gently do up the nut being careful that all the parts gently align themselves from !he front inner face of the combustion chamber.
without jamming.
When satisfied, assemble the gas pipe (#34) onto the front of the
Check the height of the front face of the compressor with the diffuser and chamber. If the ends are bent to the plan the doubled back section can be
ensure it is either level or very slightly proud above the diftuser. If it is slotted in and the straighter section at the other end manipulated into
more than about 0.2mm then carefully measure the protrusion and you will place. Once done it should hold itself in the right position . Gently bend the
have to machine this oft the front spacer to get it level. This must be done appropriate part to get the exact position as required . The fuel pipe
on a freshly made mandrel and accurately squared oft - see Sect 5. assembly (#20) can now be slid over the combustion cham ber rear, each
needle being carefully eased into !he stick ends - see the drawing for the
When happy with the clearance !he opportunity should be taken to check orientation.
the clearance behind the turbine wheel and ngv inner. If you have made a
fabricated ngv the turbine and shaft can be removed and !he ngv inner The ngv (#23 fabricated, or #35 cast) can now be eased onto the end of
(#24) fitted to the shaft tunnel and held with a couple of fixing screws the chamber. A screwdriver may need to be inserted to help align the
(#41). Re-fit the turbine and shaft and all !he front end components chamber inner into the recess in the inner part of the cast ngv. The whole
(compressor etc) and check the running clearance - ideally ~ should be assembly can now be slipped into the case. A couple of fixing screws
belween 0.5 and 1mm. If it is too smali then trim the ngv in ner, if ~ is too (#43) can be screwed into the ngv flange to locate this section and the
big, make a washer from shim to frt over the shaft tunnellngv in ner glow-plug bosses lined up and plugs inserted to hold the combustion
interface to reduce the gap, or reduce the length of the rear spacer (#26). chamber in place, don't forget !heir copper washers. When happy with the
For cast ngv's the gap can only be adjusted by making the rear spacer alignment the remaining six fixing screws can be screwed in to the ngv.
(#26) longer or shorter. This can only be checked at fina I assembly as it
depends on the case fit etc. The O-ring cord (#50) can now be cut to length and frtted to !he front
cover. It should be cut long enough to still protrude abou! 0.1mm to ensure
Remove the shaft (and ngv inner) and store away from dus!. The front ~ properly seals the case and prevent lossof pressure from the engine,
cover (#6) can now be fitted . Screw in the seven fixing screws (#49), start with a 268mm length.
making sure to miss out the holes for the services. The frtting for the air
pressure connection can be fitted now, together with ~'s adapter, (note this When you are happy with the fit (ofter the case up to check) liberally
is not shown on the drawing). silicon grease the cord . Align the gas and fuel pipes with the diffuser back
and slide the case over up to the front being careful to get the fixing screw
The combustion chamber can now be assembled . The cham ber rear holes aligned. The 3 tube ends (#36) (oil, fuel & gasi should be protruding
complete with vaporizer sticks attached (#19& 18) should be oftered up the now and sealing washers (#47) and adapters (#32) can be screwed on
combustion chamber assembly (#14,16 & 17). Orientation should be such and gently tightened. Don't overdo !his or you will break the fittings.
34
18.0 Balanding
Once the ideallip dearance is reached we need to attend to the balancing Replace the rotor into the tube and cheCk tl1le balance again. Repeat the
ollhe rotor. II the englna IS out ol balance lit t:a1 fail to spool up at all, ar it exercise above as required, gradually redueing the amount taken aft as
can mllke the most awful din! It is in your interest to ensure it is well you get nearer lully balanced. It will get progressivaly harder to tell the
balanced. imbalanoe but stiek at it. Keep popping in a lew drops ol gasoline into the
bearings tG keep them absolutely free-runriing. Don't let it run over the
The engine can ideally be balanced on an ełectronic dynamie balancer. II compressor and !his aftects the balance!
thls IS not Ilvailable do not worry, it 'can snll be staticany balanced well at
home, When you have dane as good as you can, do it once more - this is the
difłerence between ·a running engina and a quiet tunning engina!
Order ot balaneing
Balancing the turbine
n) Compressor on shatt
2) Turbine on smaft When completad, the compressor nut, compressor, front spacer and
3) Compressor and turbine on shaft bearing can all be removed, and the bearing re-fitted to the turbine end,
complete with rear spacer, turbine wheel and turbine nut. Make sure you
The following procedure works well: place the bearing with the !hinner edge ol the inner race lacing toward the
inner part ol !he shaft as we wan't taka it aft lor oS l ong time nowi Tighten
Balaneing the eompressor with ·a tee-bar type sockel - slightly firmer than I he compressar sa When
we try to undo the compressor nut, it doesn't undo the turbil1le one instead.
The turbine is carefully removed and the bearing re-filled to the Use the "Dremel" + engraving tip, mark the turbine nut and turbine for
compressor 'end, along with the front spacer (#2), compressor, and future alignment.
compressor nut. Tighten with a smali tom my-bar inserted !hrough the nut
and try to remember the leelal mow much you tighten it lor !he luture. Very
gently make a couple ol very smali indentations in tha edge ot the
compressor nut, and Ileside it in the end of !he compressor nose, to Slip other bearing anto the compressor end and pop it in bal ance tube as
provide locałion marks for Ihe luture. Use a 10r 2mm round nose bełore . This time any in-balance must be corrected by grinding a littla from
engraving tip hal d in tha 'IDremel" lor !his. II you h ave to remove the shaft the balanclng ring cast lnto !ha turbine wheel. Mark !he wheel using a felt
in the future, r eplace with l hase Iwo marks ~ined up ·as they are naw. tip, Use a 20mm culling disk in the "Dremer' and 'C8reftJly protecting the
bearings, grind a littla Irom !he balance ring at the felt marko Make as
many adjustments as required and persevere to remove even the smallest
imbalance. As you 'get nearer to balal1lC9, try to enslllre you are laaving a
Remove lhe front bearing Irom !he shaft tunnel and slip it anto the turbine well smoothed liriish to the ring to make sure weak points are not set up.
end and give both beanngs a lew drops of gasoline. The gasoline makes
the bearings extremeiy free wnning. The rotor is then inserted into a clean
seamless tube ol about 25mm i/d and 70mm long and place on a flat and
level suńace wi!h the coC1l)ressor overhanging,
The tube cen naw be rolled in short mo'lements b ack and 10l1lh a lew mm
each way and you will see il tha compressor assembl" is out ol balance
clearly, as the heavier section will mova to the baliom. Mark the heavy
point with a fine felt tip and repeat. II !he same point mol/es to the baŁtom
aga in you can confirm it is heavy here. Using a fine needle file on the back
ol tha compressor at the edge where the lelt-lip mark il11dicates, make a
hall dozen strokes, evenly, to ensure no scratches are concentrated that
might becerne weak spots later. Wipe the compressor clean.
Balancing the complete rotor assembly
When compklled , slip Ihe oIher bearing onlo Ime shaft. Slide on Ihe
balance lube, fron! spacer, 'corT\pressor and l1Iul, al1ld lighien liII your
ind!exing marks align. Resling Ihe bill ance lube on a narrow, raised base
you can 'check Ihe balance of Ihe rolor ·c omplele. II should nol show any
need for adjuslment. If IhBire is, rernove all !he IrOtlI-end parts and re-
check ! he lurbine on il's own. Illhis is ok you know il is Ihe compressor
end Ihal needs a liltle shave. Pul !he fronl-end parts back on, recl1eck and
make smali adjus'tmenls lo !he compressor, liII you're absolulely happy.
The whole process sounds quile a fiddle, Ihe realily is il lakes much longer
lO describe Ihan il does lo 00, 50 Ihere's no excuse lor a noisy engine !!
Pul a couple ol drops ol lunbine oil into !he fronl bearing and replace inlo
Ihe shaft lunnel, don'l forgel Ihe grease and !he orienlali oh - narrow part of
inmer ring facing lowards combuslion chamber. lłeplace shaft seal ,
checking Ihe onienlalion and Ihe securing screws, lighiening evenly.
The rolor can now be replaced inlo !he lurbine el1ld after popplng a drop of
oil on Ihe lurbine bearing. Pul a smear of silicon grease on !he back
bearing ouler race. 111e fronl-end parts cen be assembled onlo !he shaft
as il is slid in from Ihe lurbine end againsi Ihe pte-load spring. Be careful
nol lo calch Ihe inner edge of Ihe fronl bearing as you can push il oul of
Ihe race and drop all !he bali s oul! Feel for il jusl sliding in nicely. Tighlen
Ihe compressor nul lo Ihe allgnil1lg marks and lighlness as befora.
36
The iinlet eone (#4) can naw be fitted and the clearance checked. If you 19,0 Starting the engine
are lud<y it will fit peńectly . Mosl likely it will need alittle 'skim to elear the
compressor. If it does it can ba gently gripped in the chuck by !he outside Betore thinking 'ot running the engine mad the satety section ot this
end and the rounded file employed lo ease Ihe fit. You must have alittle brOchure.
elearance hara, about 0.1-O..2mm works wall. Make smali skims
remerrlbering the part is not very firm ly hald. If it is too far from the You will need a test stand that imeally has a separate carriage that can
comprassor, the mounting ring must b e trimmed slilllhtly back to suit. slide on wheels sa that thrust can be measured using a spring balance 'ar
kiti:hen scales reading 10-12Lbs (5I<g). You will need a pressure 'gauge
Check reglllarly an<i when satisfied the eone seClJjring scraws (#41) can be that can read an a scale 0-1 .5bar minimum, ideally 0-2bar. This is
inserted and gently tightened. Not too light here, ijt's anly plastie conneeted to the air pressure connection with El length ot 3mm "Festo"
rertnerrlber! The M3 "Feslo" fi!tings for the services can naw be screwed tube.
onl o their adapters, use a short thread of PTFE tape to seal.
You should have a rev 'counter. The GTBA published a design that reads
And that condudes the assembly of the engine. l1he eone is left aft u ntil the reI/S through the hole in the spinner interrupting an infrared led baam
the first test runs are 'cornplated, Usa a blower ar electrie motor with 11I0se and sensed wil h a phototransistor. This circt.iit will need modificaticjO to
driver to spin up the rotor to ensure it runs free, if ok we are ready ror a read up to 200,000 rpm. You will naed a means of r eading temperature.
test run. If rubbing somewhere, investigate and cure, do not try a run. f here are a number of commereial units that <f'e relatively inellpenSive.
Allematively, the rpm and temperature can be sensem using an ecu. There
Fuel consumption chart are severał !hat are suitable at the moment. The "Orbit" ECU has been
tested with this engine and works wall.
IThrust with cone compared to tuell The fuel and 11lIbricetion lines are conneeted to a "tee", connected to the
main fuel feed from the pump. The flow restrietor is in the lubricetion
14 250 branch, !he luel feed to fhe engine from the other side of the "tee" Use
12 elear piping ror fuel pipes so you cen s ee the fuel flowing, which will help
~
200 your starls stay smooth . Ihe How restrictor is j ust a smali piece of brass
10 c
• ~ 1~
turned to fi! firmly into your fuel lube with a hole down the middle to Whieh
-- .....- V
as
•2'6
J:
./'
E
10cij
u.
is soldared a 0.6mm h~podermic needle. This westrictor is fitted in the line
going to the lubrication connection on the engine.
" 4
2
~ 50 You MUST fi! a filier betwean the pUmp and the Y connection. Smali car
cartridge fillers make good fillars. F inally the fuel supply ts connected to a
o o pump. These can be home made from "MFA" parts and a machined
50,000 70,000 90,000 110,000 1:Jl,000 1Sl,OOO ahl minium body, ar use a bought pump from "Behotec", "Orbit" or Peter
Hausl or similar. The "Behotec' style pump needs only to be run with a-4-
I-+-ThllJst Lbs - - - Fuel mIlmin -Expon. (Fuel mIlmin) I celi battery, unless run fram an ECU where 1110re may ba required.
37
The pump is connected lo a fuel tank of around 1 litre capacity \\ł1ich Check that the fan turns the engine with NO rubbing and 1hat all your
should be sufficient for a run of 6-8minutes, Oil should be added to the batteries are freshly charged. Fuel up your tank and we are ready to go!
fuel, to a ratio of 6% oil to 100% fuel, that's 60cc of oil to 1Ltr of fUel. Use
oil to grade TCW3 in preference to turbine oil, as it is betler for your hmgs Starting theengine
and the environment. This oil is made for high performance outboard
motors so is well up to the job! Make sure you are wearing your ear defenders and have your fire
extingl!lisher close to hand. Re-read the safety Instructions at the front just
The electric motor on the pump can be contrdlled via an electric ftight to be sure.
speed 'COnlroller, simple hand speed controller or ECU. Use ol the "Orbit"
ECU will save you the need to purchase a rev counter and temperatlXe Spin the ·el1lgine up with the fan and move the fal1l away, whilst open ing up
gauge. The hand controller is convenient for the firSt run's. the gas and as the revs die down tum on your glow-plug suppły to light the
gas or use a cooker sparker to ignite the gas.
The air-starter fan
l(ou will hear a pop if the 'gas has lit badk into the chamber and this is the
Both proto\ypes have been tested throughout with a simple fan starter and signal l o turn the ges on aliUle more, turn on the blower and place over
a smali electric motor starter based on the Speed 300 motor. We the intaloo. The revs will rise as the gas heats the chamber and after a
recommend a fan for first ruM and to build up experience, as the prototype couple of seconds you can then start to feed Ihe fuel in 'lary slowly and the
engines needed to get to 35,OOOrpm belore they would pick up speed glow plug can be turned off il you wara using one. You can observe the
easily. The current design should be able 10 pick up from 20,000rpm and luel supply reaching the engina by watching it travelling up the elear fuel
idle at 25,OOOrpm nOw such has been the development! pipe and listening to it picking up speed.
The simplest fan that can be obtained is the dheap "Braun" hair dryer. Watch to confi~m fuel travelling up the lubrioation line. If Ihe engine starts
After unscrewing the cese the heating element is removed and thrown to 'Surge er flame excessiveły then ease the fuel flow down - do not allow
awa'i and the motor is also removed and distarded after the fan has been excess fuel to reach the engine. After a few seconds the engine will be
pulled olf the shaft. Replace the motor with a 7.2 volt 'buggy" motor such starting to show pressure on tha pressure gauge.
as the "S,peed 600" . The plastic will need trimming to allow the motor to be
pushed in. The lan is drilled out 50 it is a tight fit on the shaft and it is Once you have about 0.2 bar you cen take the fan away and shut olf the
pressed on with a smear of cyno' glue. The switch is replaced and the propane supply. The engine should now run without the fan or propane.
case is screwed up. You should use an accumulator battery and though An initial bearing noise may possibly be present for the first acceleration
heavy ·a smali 12volt-car batlery makes a cheap and dependable power cycle only as the bearings find their seat, after that they should be very
source, quiet and no whining or rumbIing. Any unl!lsual noises should be
investigated immediately by shutling the engine down and elose checking
The gas supply for rubbing - particularly the turbine in the first eouple of runs.
A propanelbutane or pure propane botlle is connected to the gas The engine is highly responsive and unlike early model turbines mas an
connection via a regulator or suitable tap connection - gas blowlamps almost il1lstant l ncrease in speed and very litlle throtlle lag. This will aid
have the valve and connection all in one and are ideal for conversion! flying and make those 'oversrnoots easier! Do not exceed '1.0 bar unless
you have a rev counter. (This approximates to 140K, eone olf)
38
The lirst run should be made with no exhaust eone fitted where Stop Press - tail-cone picturesl
temper-atures around 450'C or less should ba seert Check your results Oops - we nearly missed
with the graphs on page 5 (eone off graph). the l ail-cone!
When satislied !hat th'ere are no problems you can fit the eona and The inner and outer are
eomplate the thrust tests, and enjoy your handywork!!. both formed as a taper -
rolled up from thin
Maintenam:a. stainless and spot welded
along the seam.
As the engine has no consumable parts as such, beyond the bearings, we
would not recommend taking it apart beyond checking bearing wear, which An ,aluminium plug with a
only invdlv6s the roter assernbly. Bearing wear is expected to be minimai short section l o the same
and is Ilikely to be at its highest whenevar !he engina is resssemblad and internal angle and the rest
lirst run as the bearings have to setlle back in onto their seating. For this is into the large end and the whole lot is pushed through
reason it is advised to not do this too often unless any unusual noises are an aluminium rIng, to form the straight portion.
noted in which ca'se immediate investigation is required. Do however
check the various screws and fittings for tightness al1ld note any apparent The 5upporting vanes are best fitteci and spot welded where they can be
leaks. The O-ring saal at the front of the engine somelimes leaks a tiny bit, outside the exhalilst stream as the repealed heating/cooling can causa !he
this is not usually a problem as it is very smali. spot welds to crack otherwisa. A thil1l slot can be cut to enabla the vane to
pass thlrough the cones. Although less pretly they last!
How are we doing?
Terry Lee's MW54 (our draftsmanl)
We ,always welcome feedback on any aspedt of the engine or this
plan/guidance notes. If yol! wish to contact us please quote your plan
number in commlilnications.
Thank-you for purchasing this plan pack from Wren Turbines, New
designs are being werked on continuously and we would like to keep you
informed of offers and new developments so please ensure we have a
contact address where delails can be sent.
Thankyou.
Mike Murphy
John Wright
RogerParish
Copyright - Wren TUrbioes Aug 2000
39