Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern

TECHNIQUES IN CUTTING FINAL PATTERN
In cutting the final pattern, there are always standard procedures to be followed to avoid
mistakes in cutting the pattern which would affect the shape and style of the blouse.
Cut pattern pieces just along the cutting lines. Use sharp shears and avoid cutting the inside part
of the cutting lines otherwise the actual measurements will be affected.
LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES FOR LADIES BLOUSE
In laying out the pattern pieces onto the fabric, study the direction of the fibers that are woven
into the fabric. It is the grainline of the fabric. This is where the pattern pieces are laid out.
Parts of the Woven Fabric
1. Selvage – This is the finished side edges of the fabric.

2. Lengthwise grain – This is known as the warp which runs parallel to the selvage and the strongest
grainline with least amount of stretch.
3. Crosswise grain – This is known as the weft. This runs from selvage to selvage.
4. Bias. This is the line that runs diagonally across the fabric. The true bias is always at a 45-degree
angle to the crosswise and lengthwise grains and is the fabric’s stretchiest point.
General Layout of a Pattern
1. Follow the correct layout diagram; fold the fabric as directed and spread squarely and smoothly
on the cutting out table.
2. Lay out all the pattern pieces required to ensure that there is sufficient fabric.
3. Check the position of each piece; so that the necessary pieces are placed to the fold and that the
straight threads (or print) are parallel with the markings for the straight thread.
4. Pin the pattern in place with the pins near the seam allowance and at the right angles to the
edges.
Laying Out Pattern Pieces for the Blouse
For One-way Fabrics
1. Lay the patterns in the same direction, main sections can be interlocked for economy of fabric.
2. Fabric may be folded in half-lengthwise but should not be folded across the width as this will
reverse the pattern on pile.
For Checks and Striped Fabrics
1. The fabric should be folded correctly so that all lines are exactly in position one over the other.
2. Place the pieces against the first fold and arrange the other pieces accordingly.
3. Place and join the balance marks, center and hem lines of the sections to be identical position
on the checks or stripes.
TRANSFERRING OF MARKS ONTO THE FABRIC
Before transferring the marks onto the fabric, check the correct measurements, follow
directions, and set sharp pins or make a chalk mark at the exact point indicated. To mark cutting lines
with chalk, lay your ruler or yardstick carefully on perfectly smooth fabric, marking the line exactly from
point to point. For circular cutting lines, use tracing wheel to achieve greater accuracy in measurement.
The following markings should be carefully identified while transferring the marks onto the fabric.
1. Notches – These are small triangular markings which are used to match fabric pieces together.
2. Darts. Instead of drawing all the lines of a dart on your fabric, snip the ends into the seam
allowance of the fabric and mark the point with a pencil or water-or air-soluble fabric marker.
3. Center points - This is the midpoint or center of a piece of garment, such as collar or sleeve.
Mark the fabric by snipping into the seam allowance at the centers of your pieces.
4. Buttonhole lines. Marking buttonhole lines should be done during the sewing stage. This is to
customize button placement to get the right fit and to avoid mistakes in marking the fabric
when alteration should be done.
5. Circles, triangles, and dots. Transfer these markings wisely. Sometimes, a snip on the notches
will guide the sewer where to start the ease stitch.
6. Zipper placement. Zippers are marked on patterns with a cross-hatched line that ends in a circle.
There’s no need to transfer all the marks. Just mark the end point or the bottom of the zipper.
CUTTING THE FABRIC
Tips in Cutting the Fabric
1. In cutting the fabric, it is best to use good shears with 7” or 8” blades.

2. Always cut with long even strokes, following exactly the cutting lines.
3. Use short strokes and the points of the shears when cutting short spaces and in turning
corners as shown by the pattern.
4. Cut the fabric flat on the cutting table which is free of any obstacles.
5. Use the other hand to hold the fabric in position while cutting some parts of it.
6. In cutting folded fabric, place pins within to hold the two pieces firmly.
7. Do not place the pins on the cutting lines.

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What are the important steps when laying out pattern pieces?

What markings should be carefully identified when transferring marks onto the fabric?

TECHNIQUES IN CUTTING FINAL PATTERN

LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES FOR LADIES BLOUSE

Parts of the Woven Fabric

1. Selvage – This is the finished side edges of the fabric.

General Layout of a Pattern

Laying Out Pattern Pieces for the Blouse

For One-way Fabrics

For Checks and Striped Fabrics

TRANSFERRING OF MARKS ONTO THE FABRIC

CUTTING THE FABRIC

Tips in Cutting the Fabric

1. In cutting the fabric, it is best to use good shears with 7” or 8” blades.

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