Dollytime

Polly and Kate

How could any little girl resist falling in love with these cute friends, Polly and Kate?
They each measure 33cm (13in) and both are knitted from the same pattern in DK
yarn (USA - light worsted, Australia - 8 ply). The instructions are easy to follow, row
by row, and I’ve added plenty of tips and illustrations to guide you along the way.
I was unsure whether to include the fabric skirt but it seemed too pretty to omit, so
I’m hoping that everyone will make at least one for their dolly’s wardrobe. The
pattern is easy and you don’t need to use new fabric. Previously used fabric that has
been washed several times is ideal. Little girls will find the skirts and cardigans easy
to fit onto the dolls and I can imagine some might be lucky enough to have several
doll’s skirts and matching cardigans to mix and match.
I’ve always loved the illustrations of Mabel Lucie Attwell and it was her rosy cheeked
chubby children in their short skirts that were my inspiration for these dolls. I hope
you will find them fun to knit.
Happy dolly knitting
Wendy

http://flutterbypatch.blogspot.com http://dollytime.etsy.com

© 2010 Wendy Phillips. This is a copyrighted design. All rights reserved. No part of this pattern
(illustrations or text) may be copied, reproduced or transmitted. Items knitted from this pattern can be
used for charity fund raising purposes but not for commercial gain.
Materials for Polly
Pair of 3.25mm needles (US 3)
DK yarn in the following colours (USA - light-worsted/Australia - 8 ply).
Flesh
Fuchsia - (shoes)
Sugar pink - (cardigan, stripes and embroidered flowers)
White – (body, socks and skirt)
Turquoise – (skirt)
Yellow - (hair and stripes)
Buttons - 2 black buttons with shanks, no larger than 1cm wide (eyes), 3 buttons
(cardigan), 2 tiny buttons (shoes - optional), 1 button (skirt fastening)
Dark red embroidery floss - (mouth)
Pink felt - (cheeks and pink sewing thread for decorative stitching on cheeks)
Narrow pink ribbon - (bows)
Floral fabric - (skirt)
Elastic - (for fabric skirt)
Toy filler

Materials for Kate

Pair of 3.25mm needles (US 3)
DK yarn in the following colours (USA - light-worsted/Australia - 8 ply).
Flesh
Fuchsia – (shoes)
Green - (cardigan)
White - (socks)
Dark brown - (hair)
Buttons - 3 buttons (cardigan), 2 tiny buttons (shoes - optional)
Black felt (eyes)
Dark red embroidery floss - (mouth)
Pink felt - (cheeks and pink sewing thread for decorative stitching on cheeks)
Narrow pink ribbon - (bows)
Floral fabric - (skirt)
Elastic - (for fabric skirt)
Toy filler

Abbreviations
k - knit
p - purl
st(s) - stitch(es)
st-st - stocking stitch
k2tog - knit two stitches together to make one
p2tog - purl two stitches together to make one
* * - repeat the pattern within asterisks
yrn - yarn round needle (take yarn under the needle and back over the top).
slip1 - slip one stitch from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it
psso - pass the stitch you slipped over the stitch you have just knit
kfb - knit into the front and back to create a new stitch.

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 Let’s get started

The following instructions are for Polly. Any alterations needed for
Kate are described at the end of each knitted piece.

Body and head – knit as one piece

Cast on 42 stitches in white and work in st-st
1 - 6. st-st starting with a knit row
Join pink (don’t break off white as this can be carried up the side of the work)
7 - 8. pink
9 - 12. white
13 - 14. pink
15 - 18. white
19 - 20. pink
21 - 24. white
25 - 26. pink
27 - 30. white
31 - 32. pink
33 - 35. white
Break off white and pink and join flesh
36 - 68. st-st flesh
69. k2tog across row (21st)
70. p2tog across row to last stitch, p1 (11st)
Cut the yarn leaving a 30cm (12in) tail and using a tapestry needle take the 11st from
the knitting needle onto the tail. Don’t draw up.
Place the body and head piece to one side and continue with the shoe/leg below

Kate has a body randomly striped in colours to match her floral skirt
Shoe, sock and leg – make two alike. Same for both dolls
Cast on 12 stitches in fuchsia for shoes
1. purl
2. kfb along row (24sts)
3. purl
4. *k1, kfb* 6 times, *kfb, k1* 6 times (36sts)
5. purl
6. k14, kfb, k6, kfb, k14 (38sts)
7 - 8. purl
9 - 10. knit
11. purl
12. k12, *k2tog, k2* 4 times, k10 (34sts)
13. purl
14. k11, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k11 (30sts)
15. purl
Break of fuchsia yarn and join white yarn for socks
16. knit
17. purl
18. k6, *k2tog, k1* (twice), k2tog, k2, k2tog, *k1, k2tog (twice), k6 (24sts)

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19. purl
20. k6, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k6 (20sts)
21 - 24. st-st
25 - 26. purl
27. knit
28. purl
Break off white and join flesh
29. purl
30 - 54. st-st
Cast off

Making up
The shoes have stiff soles fitted inside so that dolly will stand when leaned against a
wall etc. The soles can be omitted if you prefer.
The pictures below illustrate how the shoe looks with and without a sole. The shoe on
the left has no stiff sole whereas the shoe on the right does and I think you’ll agree it
gives it a more authentic ‘Mary Jane’ appearance.

Front view Side view

If you decide to insert a sole you will need a stiff piece of cardboard or thick plastic (I
used a sturdy ice cream tub).
The shoe sole is shown actual size below. It should measure 7cm (2.75ins) from front
to back.

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Using the template, mark two soles on thick card or plastic. Cut them out on the
INSIDE of the line you have marked. Make two small holes in each sole as indicated
by the black spots on the template. These should be large enough for your sewing
needle to pass through.

Stitch the shoe seam (from the sock) down the back, across the base and up to, but not
including, the cast on edge. Leave the cast on edge open so that you can see the sole
when it is inserted.

Insert the sole into the shoe. It should fit inside the garter stitch rows around the
bottom of the shoe.

Garter stitch rows should be just visible when the shoe is stuffed
If the sole looks too big then cut off a very narrow strip all the way round.
To prevent the sole slipping inside the shoe you need to pass a stitch up through one
of the holes and down through the other to secure it to the bottom of the shoe. I used
the tail of wool left from casting on to make this stitch. When you have done this you
can over sew the cast on edges together.

Next, stitch the sock seam. Now is a good time to fill the shoe. Push small amounts of
stuffing firmly down into the toe and work your way back and up the leg. The shoe
and leg should be plump and firmly filled.

Stitch the back leg seam but leave open 1cm at the top to make stuffing easier. Using
small amounts of filler, stuff the remaining leg firmly. Close the leg seam right to the
top. Pin the top together to prevent stuffing falling out.

Shoe straps
Cast on 33 stitches in fuchsia
Cast off
Your knitted strap will be ‘curly’ so stretch it slightly to make it straight.
Shoe for doll’s right foot - Position and pin the strap to the shoe starting where a
button would be on the right ankle. Wrap the strap around the back (where shoe meets
sock) and bring it around the front, lifting it across the top of the foot to give the look
of a Mary Jane shoe. Take the strap back towards the button position and pin in place.
The strap should be just long enough to warp all the way round with a small overlap.

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Back stitch the strap all the way round (between cast-on and cast-off rows) to secure it
to the foot. Attach a small button on the right ankle.

Make a second leg and stitch the strap to the shoe as described above. Remember that
the join should be on the left ankle and not the right. Stitch a tiny button on the left
ankle position.

You are almost ready to fix the legs to the body, but first you need to over sew the top
of each leg. Before doing this, check that the legs are an equal size, for example, one
is not plumper than the other. The legs should NOT be filled right to the top. Leave
2.5cm (1 in) empty so that the legs can be inserted into the body and will move freely
when attached. Over sew the top edge of each leg.

Attaching the legs to the body – the seam will be at the centre back
Starting at the cast on edge of the body, stitch a short length of the seam (5cm or 2in).
Leave the rest of the seam open to the top.

With the wrong side out, fold the body so that the seam is positioned centre back and
mark the centre front with a pin (see below left). Now slide the legs into the body so
that they are positioned either side of the pin.

The top of each leg should be just visible but should not protrude. Pin legs in place.

With the legs securely pinned, back stitch close to the cast on edge of the body as
shown below. Back stitch across once more to ensure the legs do not work loose when
the doll is played with.

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Once the legs are secure, turn the body right side out (below) and check the legs are
the same length. Stitch the remaining back seam but leave 3cm (2in) of seam open at
the top for easier stuffing.

Stuff the doll firmly. She needs to look plump and well fed! The best way to achieve
this is to push your thumbs inside the body and head and firmly but gently stretch
outwards to make the doll wider. Now add extra stuffing. Close the remaining seam to
the top of the head and finish stuffing the doll.

Once the body and head are firmly filled to the top, you can create a neck. Thread
your needle with flesh coloured yarn. Starting at the back seam, pick up alternate
loops all round the neck line (where flesh joins white – see below)

Work all the way round and then pull the gathering yarn to form a neck. Wrap the
yarn once more around the neck and fasten off at the back. The head should be as
wide as the body. Add more stuffing if necessary. Check that the seam is now stitched
to the top and then pull the gathering thread to close the top of the head. Secure
tightly.

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Arms
Cast on 13 stitches in flesh
1 - 3. st-st starting with a purl row
4. k2, kfb, k7, kfb, k2 (15st)
5 - 33. st-st
34. k2tog across row to last stitch, k1 (8st)
Cut the yarn leaving a 20cm (8in) tail and using a tapestry needle take the 8st from the
knitting needle onto the tail. Draw up tightly and secure. Stitch the under arm seam
leaving 2cm (1in) open at the top for easier stuffing.

Stuff the arm pushing plenty down into the hand and working your way up. The arm
should be plump at the bottom but thinner towards the top (see below left). Leave 2cm
(1in) not stuffed at the top to allow the arm to move when attached. Close the
remaining seam.

wrong (too full) right

Once the arm is filled you can create a wrist. Thread your needle with flesh coloured
yarn and, pick up alternate loops (as you did for the neck) right across row 10. Start at
the under arm seam and work all the way round. Pull to create a wrist. Wrap the yarn
once more round the wrist. Before fastening off I like to create a thumb but this is
optional (see below). If you don’t want your doll to have thumbs then fasten off.
Make a thumb. Make sure the arm seam will be in the centre of the hand at the back.
Bring your needle out from the back of the wrist to the front of the hand (see below).
Take the yarn over the hand to form a thumb and back into the palm of the hand and
out at the front again. Pull to create a thumb shape with the wrapped over yarn (below
right). Now push the needle back through the hand and out at the wrist seam. Fasten
off.

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Make a second arm and create a thumb on the opposite side. Check that both arms are
an equal size and, remembering to leave the unfilled space at the top, over sew the top
edges together making sure the seam is at centre back.

Pin each arm to the doll’s shoulders. Positioning them very slightly towards the back
rather than the front will avoid the appearance of a rounded back and a flat chest.

Attach arms securely three rows below the neck line. Arms should hang freely and
dolly should be able to wave.

Doll’s face
I like to take great care when stitching a doll’s face as it will give her a unique
expression and a character that will hopefully appeal to the child who is to love her.

The main thing to remember is to not place the eyes too high up on the head. It is a
common mistake and can make dolly look old and sometimes a bit frightening. As a
general rule a doll’s eyes are positioned centrally on the face. It’s a good idea to place
lengths of coloured thread across the centre of the face (horizontally and vertically)
and then mark the position of eyes and mouth with coloured pins (see above).
Remove the marking thread before stitching on the features.

Eyes - These should measure between 8mm and 10mm and can be made from
buttons or felt.

Polly’s eyes are made from 10mm black buttons with shanks. They must be securely
fixed. To do this I used four strands of strong linen thread. The linen thread is passed
from the back of the head to the eye position, through the button shank and then out at
the back of the head again. The ends of the threads are tied securely at the back. By
pulling them tight you can create a small socket for each eye and give the face an
attractive contour.

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Kate’s eyes are made of felt. These are stuck to the face with strong fabric glue. Cut a
circle of felt for each eye measuring 8mm. You can see that Kate’s felt eyes have no
eye sockets and this makes her face smaller than Polly’s. Creating eye sockets makes
heads flatter and wider even though the pattern used for each is the same.

Polly has 10mm button eyes Kate has 8mm felt eyes

Mouth
Using dark red embroidery floss, stitch a ‘V’ shaped mouth.

Nose
The nose is made by making three tiny stitches (one under the other) using flesh yarn.

Cheeks
Cut two 12mm circles of pink felt and pin to the face to check position. Put strong
fabric glue on the back of each cheek leaving the centre ‘glue free’ as you will need to
pass a needle and thread through. Once the glue is dry use pink sewing thread or
embroidery floss to stitch over the cheeks as shown below. Bring the needle up
through the centre and down into the face on the outside of the cheek. Coming up
through the centre each time, make a cross (centre picture) and then fill in the spaces.

The pink stitching over the felt cheeks is decorative and not essential and therefore
can be omitted if you prefer. Over stitched cheeks like these are typically found on
1960s rag dolls and I always like the effect.

Hair - Both dolls have hair made from loops of yarn.

Polly’s hair
Wrap yellow yarn 8 times around a 15cm (6in) piece of card. Remove the loops of
yarn from the card and use a single pin to secure the loops to the front of the head (see
picture top of next page). Stitch the bundle of loops to the head. Repeat on the other
side. Now work your way back across the centre of the head stitching on bundles of
loops and let the hair fall down the sides and the back. You’ll need approximately
10 – 12 bundles to cover the head.

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Arrange the hair so that it covers the head and is even distributed (no bald patches).
Pin a length of contrasting yarn around the head as shown starting just below the eyes.
Notice how it drops down slightly at the back. With the yarn in place, use yellow yarn
to back stitch the hair to the head all the way round (small stitches). Stitch just above
the contrasting yarn guide and take care not to include it with the back stitching.

When Polly’s hair is securely stitched to her head, remove the yarn guide. Cut through
the loops and divide the hair evenly at the back. Gather the hair into bunches and tie
tightly with yellow yarn. Trim to the required length. Finish with pink ribbons.

Kate’s hair is made from shorter loops of yarn stitched to the head in the same way
as Polly’s. The loops are a bit longer at the back than the front and the loops on the
forehead are short. They are back stitched in place in the same way as Polly’s. Left
un-trimmed they give the appearance of curls. Ribbon bows are tied at each side.

Cardigan
Leave all tails of yarn attached to the top and bottom of each piece as these can be
used for stitching pieces together later.

Back
Cast on 30 stitches in pink
1 - 6 garter stitch
7 - 15. st-st starting with a purl row
Start sleeve shaping
16. cast off one stitch then st-st to end (29st)
17. cast off one stitch then st-st to end (28st)
18. k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1 (26st)
19. purl
20 - 31. repeat rows 18 and 19 six more times (14st)
32. k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1 (12st)
Break off yarn and transfer these 12 stitches onto a stitch holder or spare needle

Dollytime © 2010 Wendy Phillips 11

Left front - doll’s left side
Cast on 20 stitches in pink
1 - 6 garter stitch
7. k4, purl to end
8. knit
9 - 14. repeat rows 7 and 8 three more times
15. k4, purl to end
Start sleeve shaping
16. cast off one stitch then st-st to end (19st)
17. k4, purl to end
18. k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end (18st)
19. k4, purl to end
20 - 31. repeat rows 18 and 19 six more times (12st)
32. k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end (11st)
Break off yarn and transfer these 11 stitches onto a stitch holder or spare needle

Right front - doll’s right side (buttonholes worked on rows 3, 18, and 31)
Cast on 20 stitches in pink
1 - 2. garter stitch
3. knit to last 3 stitches, yrn, k2tog, k1 (buttonhole row)
4 - 6. garter stitch
7. purl to last 4 stitches, k4
8. knit
9 - 16. repeat rows 7 and 8 four more times
Start sleeve shaping
17. Cast off one stitch, purl to last 4 stitches, k4 (19st)
18. k2, yrn, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog. k1 (18st) (buttonhole row)
19. purl to last 4 stitches, k4
20. knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog. k1 (17st)
21. purl to last 4 stitches, k4
22 - 29. repeat rows 20 and 21 four more times (13st)
30. knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog. k1 (12st)
31. purl to last 4 stitches, k1, yrn, k2tog, k1 (buttonhole row)
32. knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog. k1 (11st)
Break off yarn and transfer these 11 stitches onto a stitch holder or spare needle

Sleeve - make 2 alike

Cast on 24 stitches in pink
1 - 4 garter stitch
5. purl
6. kfb, knit to last stitch, kfb (26st)
7 - 15. st-st starting with a purl row
Start sleeve shaping
16. cast off one stitch then st-st to end (25st)
17. cast off one stitch then st-st to end (24st)
18. k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1(22st)
19. purl
20 - 31. repeat rows 18 and 19 six more times (10st)
32. k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1 (8st)
Break off yarn and transfer these 8 stitches onto a stitch holder or spare needle

Dollytime © 2010 Wendy Phillips 12

Neckband
Place all 5 pieces onto one needle so that the right sides are facing you when you start
to knit. The left front (without buttonholes) will be at the far end of your needle
(11st), followed by sleeve (8st), back (12st), sleeve (8st) right front with buttonholes
(11st).

Total of 50 stitches

Join yarn to work and keep the tension tight

Work across all 50 stitches ensuring you don’t leave a space where one piece joins the
next.
1. (front) k8, k2tog, k1, ( sleeve) k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, (back) k1, k2tog, k2,
k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, (sleeve) k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, (front) k1, k2tog, k8 (you
should now have 41 stitches on your needle)
2. knit across row
3. purl across row
cast off knitwise

The five pieces are now attached to the neckband

Working from the neckband, use the tails of yarn between each piece to join the
pieces together from the neckband to the row where shaping starts. Back stitch each
seam close to the edge.

Seams all stitched

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With wrong sides facing, fold the cardigan as shown below and, starting at the cuff,
back stitch the sleeve seam to the under arm. Repeat on the other sleeve. Now stitch
the side seams from the bottom to the under arm. NB. The generous overlap at the
front is designed to accommodate dollies with plump tummies!

Three pretty buttons can now be stitched on. Use a matching shade or a contrasting
one. I have used little heart shaped buttons in turquoise to tone with the skirt.

Kate - green cardigan with pink buttons

Skirt
Cast on 90 stitches in turquoise
1 - 4. st-st starting with a knit row
5. (picot row) k1, *yrn, k2tog* across row to last stitch, k1
6 - 12. st-st
Break off turquoise and join yellow
13 - 14.st-st.
Break off yellow and join white
15 - 24. st-st
Break off white and join yellow
25 - 26. st-st
Break off yellow and join turquoise
27 - 34. st-st
35. k2tog across row (45st)
36. purl
37. k5, *k2tog, k9* (3 times), k2tog, k5 (41 st)
38. purl
Cast off

Making up
Over sew the picot hem in place. Give the hem and dress a light press with a cool
iron.
Use lazy daisy stitch (detached chain stitch) to add flowers to the skirt. If you are
uncertain how this stitch is done, click on the link below.

http://www.embroiderersguild.com/stitch/stitches/detached.html

Dollytime © 2010 Wendy Phillips 14

Use pins to mark the position of each flower. I gave each flower four petals but you
could do more, the choice is yours.

Stitch the back seam leaving 2cm (1in) open at the top. The skirt is fastened with a
single button and a stitched button loop. If you are not familiar with doing button
loops you will find an excellent tutorial here.

http://ysolda.com/support/pictorial-guides/sewn-button-loops/

Polly loves her pretty knitted skirt but would love a flowery fabric one like Kate’s.
Fabric skirts are very easy to make and of course little girls will love them as they are
very easy to fit onto dolls.

Making a fabric skirt

Whilst I know that most customers who buy my patterns will be confident
knitters, I’m not sure how many will be similarly confident with a needle and
thread. For this reason I have described a very easy way to make a fabric skirt
and hope that everyone will make a similar little skirt for their doll. If you are
skilled with a needle and thread and/or have a sewing machine then feel free to
‘upgrade’ my basic methods.

You will need a length of pretty cotton fabric measuring 56cm x 15cm (22in x 6in).
The fabric shouldn’t be too thick or stiff. Using an old cotton dress that has been
washed several times is ideal.

The finished length of the skirt should be approximately 10cm (4in). With this in
mind, turn and press a hem along one long edge. Next press a casing for the elastic
along the opposite edge making sure the casing is wider than the elastic that you will
be threading through it. Before stitching the hem and casing make sure the two ends
of the skirt are exactly the same length 10cm (4in).

Stitch the hem and elastic casing by hand or machine

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Thread a length of elastic through the casing and pin one end to the skirt so that the
elastic won’t pull out whilst you are adjusting the skirt to fit the doll.

When the elastic is adjusted, the skirt should be just the right size to easily fit around
the doll’s waist (not too tight or too loose). Pin the other end of the elastic to the skirt
to hold it in place whilst you stitch the seam. Place together the two short edges (right
sides facing) and stitch the skirt seam from the bottom to the top making sure the
elastic is secured in place. Cut off the excess elastic.

Polly now has a pretty cotton skirt like her little friend Kate. How pretty they both
look. I expect they are soon going to want even more clothes for their wardrobes!

Until next time…….goodbye

time…….goodbye from Polly and Kate

Dollytime © 2010 Wendy Phillips 16