Woodworker's Journal - Vol.39 No.3 - Jun 2015

JOBSITE RADIOS: THE BEST SOUNDS FOR YOUR SHOP (page 48)
“America’s leading woodworking authority”™
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Summer Fun Project (page 26)
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June 2015
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Woodworker’s Journal June 2015 3

W o o d w o r k e r ’ s J o u r n a l
Contents
June 2015 Vo l u m e 3 9 , N u m b e r 3
Projects
Miter Saw Station
By Ralph Bagnall
A space-saving solution that lets
you use your miter saw without
sacrificing bench space.
Northwoods Canoe Paddle

By Dan Cary
Carve a traditional beavertail
style paddle — just like the
ones used by explorers from
a few hundred years ago.
Page 30
Page 44
Redwood Slab Vanity
By Brad Holden
Counter Height Bar Stool A stunning piece of wood
By Kimberly McNeelan was the starting point for this
Hand tool skills and piece with curved laminations
sturdy dovetails add and a contemporary style.
appeal to this counter
height bar stool.
Page 36
Page 62
4 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal
Departments
8 Letters 22 Woodturning 70 What’s in Store

A flock of penguins, plus reader Utilize your turning skills for New saws, new shop setup
reactions to other projects. some nifty household projects and options and more.
home repairs.
14 Tricks of the Trade 74 Finishing Thoughts
Resaw at your band saw with this 26 Father’s Day Gift Ideas A historic tour of guitar finishes.
simple method for turning a clamp Six of our experts share their best
into a point fence. woodworking suggestions for 78 Hey … Did You Know?
gift-giving occasions. What do you know about the wood
16 Questions & Answers/Stumpers behind that crack of the bat?
What’s the deal with dry rot? Plus: 48 Shop Test
mid-size vs. compact router. Sandor Nagyszalanczy sounds out
jobsite radios: What features do
20 Shop Talk they have? How are they different?
Betty Scarpino recounts her What’s best for your shop? (And,
adventures during a woodcarving of course, how do they sound?)
contest in China.
woodworkersjournal.com www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
I
’m sure you’ve noticed that just about every project
and many of our other articles includes our More
on the Web icon. It’s our way of saying that you
can learn a lot more about that project or story on
woodworkersjournal.com — and it’s often in the form
of a video!
If you haven’t checked out the video gallery at
woodworkersjournal.com, then you are missing out.
Our video gallery page includes videos featuring tips, skills, product
previews and interviews. Even if you’re not planning to build the project,
the More on the Web video associated with that project will likely teach
you a skill you can use on other projects.
So do yourself a favor and take a look at our video gallery page. To get
there, just click the “Videos” tab located in the top navigation bar on
our homepage. We know you’ll enjoy it!
— Dan Cary

Letters
ROCKLER PRESS
THE VOICE OF THE WOODWORKING COMMUNITY
Projects from Many Paths JUNE 2015

Volume 39, Number 3
WOODWORKING ON THE EDGES ROB JOHNSTONE Publisher
In my opinion, woodworking is the most versatile of crafts. JOANNA WERCH TAKES Editor
Consider the projects in this issue, for example. We’ve CHRIS MARSHALL Senior Editor
JEFF JACOBSON Senior Art Director
employed woodworking skills to create a gorgeous bath-
JOE FAHEY Associate Art Director
room vanity from a waney-edged slab of solid redwood
DAN CARY Senior Web Producer
(harvested sustainably from an old stump) and bendable MATTHEW HOCKING Internet Production Coordinator
plywood. I suppose you could call it home improvement, MARY TZIMOKAS Circulation Director
but you’ll see it is some sweet woodworking from start to finish. We also teach you KELLY ROSAAEN Circulation Manager
LAURA WHITE Fulfillment Manager
how to make a canoe paddle from scratch — a perfect summer project, and one that
I intend to do in my shop. (Think of it as your hobby, helping out your other hobby.) Founder and CEO
ANN ROCKLER JACKSON
And, towards the end of the magazine in our Small Shop Journal article, Kimberly
McNeelan shows how to build a sturdy, yet stylish, bar stool out of solid ash lumber. It
Publisher Emeritus
LARRY N. STOIAKEN
would be difficult to find three more diverse projects, but they are all great woodworking.
Contributing Editors
Plus, they all fit the theme of using our woodworking skills to enhance our lives, our NORTON ROCKLER
homes and the lives of those we care for. SANDOR NAGYSZALANCZY
ERNIE CONOVER
What sort of woodworking projects are you up to this summer? Are they simple or
sublime, practical or pompous, or just plain fun? Let me know, and as always, keep on Advertising Sales
ALYSSA TAUER Advertising Director
making sawdust! [email protected]
— Rob Johnstone DAVID BECKLER National Sales Representative
[email protected]
(469) 766-8842 Fax (763) 478-8396
Bed Heads
I loved your article
Editorial Inquiries
“Greene & Greene In-
JOANNA WERCH TAKES
spired Bed” [Feb. 2015]. [email protected]
Chris mentioned that
the project was made Subscription Inquiries
from mahogany. Could (800) 765-4119 or
we find out what spe- www.woodworkersjournal.com
Write Woodworker’s Journal, P.O. Box 6211,
cific species he used? Harlan, IA 51593-1711
From the color of the email: WWJcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Include mailing
raw lumber, I doubt he used label for renewals and address changes. For gift
genuine (Honduran) mahogany. the wood from Steve Wall Lumber, subscriptions, include your name and address and
It is probably one of the African and that’s as specific as they get your gift recipient’s.
“mahoganies”; my guess is either regarding their mahogany.
Book Sales and Back Issues
Khaya or Sipo. — Chris Marshall Call: (800) 610-0883
John Pettus www.woodworkersjournal.com
Westminster, California I read with interest your article on
constructing the G&G bed in your Woodworker’s Journal (ISSN: 0199-1892), is published in February,
WJ Responds: Thanks for the February 2015 issue. However, I April, June, August, October and December by Rockler Press Inc.,
kind comment about the bed proj- am disappointed that the design 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340. Periodical postage paid at
ect I built for our February issue. only addresses a queen-size bed. Medina, Minnesota and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send
all address changes to Woodworker’s Journal, P.O. Box 6211, Harlan,
You are correct: while I wish my I understand that the queen is
IA 51593-1711. Subscription Rates: One-year, $19.95 (U.S.); $28.95
supplier had Honduras mahogany, the most popular size sold in the U.S. funds (Canada and other countries). Single copy price, $5.99.
what they stock is “African” ma- U.S., but there are a lot of us that Reproduction without permission prohibited. Publications Mail Agreement
hogany. The exact species is inde- Number 0861065. Canadian Publication Agreement #40009401.
terminate, unfortunately. I bought Continues on page 10 ... ©2015 Rockler Press Inc. Printed in USA.

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Letters continued
have king-size beds as well. WJ Responds: We’re glad

My interest is not so much that you and other readers A reader wanted more
how-to instruction in our spoon
in the aesthetic upscaling are enjoying building the
carving article. We’ve provided a
to a king, but more to the penguin designed by David link in the copy below.
“bones” of the support Wakefield. We have had
structure. This information a few readers ask about Read the article in your
would be very helpful to placement of the drive dowel. February issue on how to
allow those of us wanting to This dowel (piece 9) is not turn your table into a router
build a king-size bed to work mounted to anything. It is table. I have two identical
David Wakefield’s animated from your plans and produce placed in the drive slot when table saws and made a router
penguin toy was a winner a bed that won’t collapse! you glue up the assembly table and dado machine by
with the grandfathers in our
Richard Marsh and floats in that channel. cutting away part of the ex-
readership! Pablo Gazmuri’s
Decatur, Georgia The cam is attached behind tension and putting a piece of
black-and-white version is
below, while John Lebens piece 3, in the middle of the hardwood in the cutout and
stuck with the unpainted look. slot of the dowel. fastening my router to this.
Dale Z. Jost
Add a Safety Switch Syracuse, Kansas
I read the article on the
router table insert, and found Spokeshave How-to
it very interesting [“Router I was rereading the Dec.
Table Extension with Dust 2014 article on “Carving
Collection,” February 2015]. Spoons.” After I had read
It’s similar to the one I the article several times,
have installed, but l like the I thought it would be fun
method of dust collection to try. I’m sure it will be
presented better than mine. — once I master, or rather
However, there was one begin to learn, the spoke-
safety concern. shave. I am sure many
Granddads Build Birds of your readers have the
Since my youngest daughter, knowledge, but for those of
who just had a baby girl, us who do not, a short “how
loves penguins, I had to make to do” sidebar would have
one [“The Well-Tailored been very helpful.
Penguin,” February 2015]. It Maybe you could point me
will make a great present for to any articles on using the
her and the baby. spokeshave or maybe a video
John Lebens When I installed my router on the same.
Wayzata, Minnesota under the table, the height Bob Isgrigg
adjustment involved turning White Lake, Michigan
In building the wooden pen- the router. That means the
guin for my grandson, I had a On/Off switch is constantly WJ Responds: Thanks for
question on the placement of moving around, and is usual- your comments, Bob, and
the cam and whether the cam ly accessed from the side, not you raise a good point that
should be glued to the axle. the front where you would we will keep in mind. You
Thank you for your inter- feed from. Solution: install may find this article on the
est in wooden toys. In an a “Safety power tool switch” use of the spokeshave to be
era of electronics, I find the (Rockler #20915). This helpful:
most entertaining toys are switch has a large “STOP” www.woodworkersjournal.
simple, and wood toys last paddle that can be found with com/how-to-set-up-and-use-a-
for generations. hand or knee. spokeshave/
Pablo Gazmuri, M.D. Bert Grant
Needham, Massachusetts Yuma, Arizona Continues on page 12 ...

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Letters continued
Our reader has a
useful upgrade to a
mitering technique
we featured in our
February issue.
Adding an adjust-
able stop block
helps to ensure
accuracy.
Good Catch
I have to write you
to tell you that I was
shocked to see the pho-
to showing Kimberly
Building On Success McNeelan in such a
Like Sandor Nagyszalanczy, dangerous pose over
There’s more online at [Questions & Answers, Feb- her table saw on page We failed to use the proper safety gear in
woodworkersjournal.com ruary 2015], I use a sled to 72 [“Spice Rack,” this photo ... we are properly abashed and
www.woodworkersjournal.com
build mitered frames. As he February 2015]. will do better in the future.
MORE ON THE WEB points out, unless opposite One slip and she is
Check online for more content sides are exactly the same going to be missing a thumb left hand to hold the wood
covering the articles below: length, the joints will not be and finger at the very least. down and apply pressure
Woodturning (page 22): square. My method involves I use a SawStop saw in my towards the fence. My left
Turnings for your household cutting all the left miters shop and even with it, I would hand would remain station-
(video) first and then, by using the never put myself in such a ary. Please, keep reading and
Miter Saw Station (page 30): adjustable stop block on position. I always use a push executing safe techniques!
Space-saving miter saw station an extension rail (bolted to stick for that type of cut. — Kimberly McNeelan
(video) T-nuts in the sled), it assures Les Austin
Live-Edge Vanity (page 36): that opposites have the same Lincolnton, North Carolina Great Gift
Creating a curve on a bending dimension. With this setup, I just want to thank you for
form (video) I can make frames with a WJ Responds: This was sharing your ideas and details
Canoe Paddle (page 44): maximum size of 60". a poorly chosen photo. We for building a “Lap Desk” in
Building a canoe paddle at Anthony Fisher apologize and appreciate the October 2014 edition of
Minnesota’s North House Folk Sebastopol, California your concern for safety. I Woodworker’s Journal. I built
School (video) am usually quite the safety one recently and gave it to my
Shop Test (page 48): Sound Making it Better captain, but the need for a granddaughter for Christmas.
test comparison of jobsite radios Just a suggestion: If you cut riving knife and push stick She loves it.
(video) the 3/4" hole in the baseplate was overlooked here. In the Jerry Jackson
of the “Circle-cutting Jig with photo, I am actually using my via Internet
Small Shop Journal (page 62):
Creating book-matched panels Fine Adjustment” [Jigs &
Fixtures, February 2015] with A version of our
(video)
lap desk made
a hole saw and enlarge the
it under the
hole in the plug Christmas tree last
for a pencil, December. Lucky
you could drop grandchild!
it back in and
draw the arc or
circle you want.
You might need
to wrap a layer
or two of tape
around it to
make a snug fit.
A reader’s clever suggestion turns this super-useful Paul Ray
circle-cutting jig into a supersized compass. Maryville, Tennessee

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Go to:
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Tricks of the Trade
Tricks to Help Do More with Less
Tested and photographed by Chris Marshall
Scrap Block Creates

High-Rise Mortiser
My Delta mortising
machine lacked the
vertical capacity for
mortising some wider
stock recently, so I
bolted a 2"-thick hard-
wood spacer beneath the
tool column to give the
machine more “reach.”
Now I can mortise work- Spacer
pieces up to 41⁄2" tall. But, under the
column
to preserve the original
mortising depth for
narrower stock, I clamp
Grinding Compound Loosens Tough Threads a second 2" spacer block
Here’s a trick for loosening up hard-to-turn or rusty threads to the table in front of
on your tools. Apply a small amount of valve grinding the fence. A couple of stopped holes on the ends hold it in
compound, available at auto parts stores, to the threads. place with spring clamps.
Cycle the threads back and forth through their travel until Ken Johnson
they operate smoothly, then remove the abrasive grit with Bellefonte, Pennsylvania
solvent. Coat the threads with dry lubricant or wax to keep
them working properly.
John Crawford
West Fork, Arkansas
Tape-and-cut for Same-length Parts

When I was building your Small Shop Journal “Stickley-inspired Bookcase” New Use for an Old Stepstool
(February 2013) recently, the plan called for six accent stiles to be cut to As our children grew, the stepstool they once
the same length. I didn’t have a stop block setup long enough to do it, so needed was retired to my basement workshop.
here was my solution. I cut the stiles overly long and taped them together I’ve since repurposed it as a multilevel support
tightly. Then, I trimmed one end flat and square and used that reference end next to my workbench. It assists the vise for
to measure off the distance I needed to crosscut the other end. Result: six holding longer or odd-shaped workpieces.
identical lengths. A very handy shop helper!
Joseph Kasinec Ronald Casteel
Macomb, Michigan Russell, Pennsylvania

PICK
OF TH
TRICK E
S
Simple Resawing Point Fence
Here’s a nifty way to turn Rockler’s In addition to our standard payment
Universal Fence Clamp (item 31373) (below), Wade Meyer of Johnstown,
into a point fence for resawing at Pennsylvania, will also receive a
your band saw. Drill a hole into the
RIDGID 10” Dual Bevel Miter Saw
end of a 3/4" or larger dowel that
(R4112) for being selected as the
matches the height of your band
“Pick of the Tricks” winner. We
saw’s rip fence. Insert the clamp’s
pay from $100 to $200 for all tricks
adjustable arm into the hole, and
tighten the assembly securely to used. To join in the fun, send us
your rip fence. Thanks your original, unpublished trick.
to the dowel’s curvature, Please include a photo or drawing if
you can pivot and “steer” necessary. Submit your Tricks to
workpieces through a Woodworker’s Journal, Dept. T/T,
resaw cut to adjust for P.O. Box 261, Medina, MN 55340.
blade drift as needed. Or send us an email:
Wade Meyer
[email protected]
Johnstown, Pennsylvania
Safety First Learning how to operate power and hand tools is essential for developing safe woodworking practices.
For purposes of clarity, necessary guards have been removed from equipment shown in our magazine. We in no way
recommend using this equipment without safety guards and urge readers to strictly follow manufacturers’ instructions and
safety precautions.
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fence replaces commonly used shop jigs
like dovetails or box joints, while the
Ready2Lift allows the ultimate in bit
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Now you can produce precision
work faster than ever.
Visit your local
Rockler store or
www.rockler.com/ready2
New Ready2Lift shown

with touch screen
controller (sold separately)
Made in the USA
For a store near you or free catalog: Rockler.com 1-877-ROCKLER Materials code 637

Questions & Answers
Where Can You Send When you’ve tried out a bunch
Your Saw Blade? of saw blades and picked your

favorite, what do you do with the
rest of them?
THIS ISSUE’S EXPERTS
Joanna Werch Takes is

editor of
Q I have tried four or
five different table saw
blades before I settled on a
Woodworker’s Journal. general purpose Freud
Ian Kirby is the host of Fusion Blade for all my
the Way to Woodwork cutting. My question is
DVD series, available what to do with these other
through the store at
blades? Are they recyclable,
woodworkersjournal.com.
donate-able, or what?
Chris Marshall is senior editor Don Price
of Woodworker’s Journal and Malvern, Pennsylvania
author of several books
on woodworking.
A According to our local

scrap metal specialist,
saw blades — steel blades,
Contact us
carbide tips, etc. — can be
by writing to “Q&A,”
recycled by your local scrap
Woodworker’s Journal, metal recycler. If you are
4365 Willow Drive, interested in donating them,
Medina, MN 55340,
by faxing us at (763) 478-8396
you might also contact your
local high school or commu-
nity education program to
A Dry rot is a fungus
which, if the conditions
are right, will infest wood,
this. The “seeds” of fungi are
called spores. Spores are mi-
croscopic in size and present
or by emailing us at:
see if they would want these leaving it a dry, crumbling in most atmospheres. When
[email protected]
items for their woodshop. shell with none of its former they land on wood and the
Please include your home — Joanna Werch Takes strength or integrity. The conditions are right, they will
address, phone number and expression “dry rot” goes “root,” growing fine white
email address (if you have one)
with your question.
Q What exactly is “dry
rot”? Why doesn’t
200-year-old furniture suffer
back almost 200 years
and is commonly used to
describe brown rot and wet
strands called hyphae. The
hyphae spread and grow,
feeding off the cellulose and
Digital image courtesy of smikeymikey1/Bigstock.com its demise from rot, the other rots which will hemicellulose in the wood,
dry rot? infest wood. causing it to be denatured. At
Keith Deck Merulius Lacrymans and some point, for no seasonal,
Marseilles, Illinois Serpula Lacrymans are the climactic or other timeline,
specific culprits of dry rot the infestation will create a
and, in the past few years, fruiting body, or a “mush-
mycologists (people who room,” known as mycelium.
Digital image courtesy of smslphotography/Bigstock.com
study fungi) have been hav- This will emit millions of

ing second thoughts about spores into the air for the
how, exactly, these fungi do cycle to continue.
their work. The vital aspect to the
Briefly, and without being growth of any rot is in the
too technical, it goes like phrase, “if the conditions are
right.” There are two condi-
Should your furniture live in fear tions. Briefly, the moisture
of the dry rot fungus? Our expert
shines a light on that question. Continues on page 18 ...
June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

Stumpers Questions & Answers
continued
A Tool to Transfer Doug Ripka’s photo

(below) shows this
It helps you put a hole in one — or more. tool in use with a radio
component.
content of the wood needs
to be about 30% and the sur-
rounding air still, meaning no
wind, conditions we wouldn’t
Marv Thompson of Rice expect to find in many places
Lake, Wisconsin, didn’t today. Those damp, still con-
know what the mystery ditions were common in earli-
tool from er days in wooden boats and,
William Rosevear of more recently, in buildings
Spokane, Washington, in that are poorly constructed,
our February issue was, Mansfield, Missouri, “had a in that they are without good
but he could see possibil- clock repair shop for many ventilation. Building codes
ities: “I am going to make years. I used it to transfer are designed to avoid this.
one. It would be perfect hole centers. You would Furniture is not likely to
for finding the centers loosen the setscrew, and put be in use in a place where
of the faceplate on one point in each of three (or the moisture content of the
a router.” two) holes and transfer it to wood is about 30%, and you
the new place. Occasionally wouldn’t want to live there
I needed one to make a new either so, unless it’s stored
plate for a clock mechanism. in such an unlikely place, it’s
It works very much like a not going to meet its demise
pair of dividers, except with by dry rot.
three legs. A light tap with a The longevity of wood is
Mark Morris of Coupe- hammer would make a start- not one of its lauded features
ville, Washington, didn’t ing point for a drill bit.” compared with its various
What’s This? know what it was called, Jon also notes that, “Like species and beauties but, on
This mystery tool comes from Ron “but I saw my dad use one most tools, there could be balance, it may be one of its
Christensen of Jacksonville, Florida. when I was a youngster. He multiple uses for it,” which greatest assets.
Do you know what it is? used it to draw circles. He makes sense, especially — Ian Kirby
would take a 16d nail and when Douglas Ripka of
Send your answer to
[email protected]
or write to “Stumpers,”
bang a hole into a center-
point and remove the nail,
then he’d place the nib into
Rebersburg, Pennsylvania,
sent in the photo of the ver-
sion he owns. “It was used
Q I am taking a hard
look at making picture
frames with a router. I have
Woodworker’s Journal, 4365 the dent and place a pencil during the 1920s homemade practically no experience
Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340 at the other end (or inside radio craze to help lay out with a router so I would like
for a chance to win a prize! of the set screw depending the holes for radio compo- your advice on: Will a com-
on how large he wanted nents on the front panel,” pact router handle this work?
the circle).” Doug explained. Will an economic router table
We did (at last) hear from The tool’s overall purpose, handle this? These are the
someone who had “used an Doug said, was “to transfer two purchases I will have to
object very much like the irregularly spaced mounting make and would appreciate
one William Rosevear asked holes from a piece of hard- your advice.
us about.” Jon Slaton of ware to a mounting surface.” Bob Smith
Ballwin, Missouri
Winner! Mark Morris of Coupeville,
Woodworker’s Journal editor
Joanna Werch Takes compiles
each issue’s Stumpers responses
Washington, wins a Hitachi 10” Sliding
Dual Compound Miter Saw (C10FSHPS).
A A compact router would
work for picture frames
if what you want it to do is
— and reads every one. We toss all the Stumpers letters into a hat create profiled edges on your
to select a winner. frames. Compact routers

Our editor explains why
a router with a bit more
power is the best choice
for picture frame making.
also have the advantage of

plunging capability with an Winner!
accessory plunge base. You For simply sending in his
can certainly mount a com- question on recycling or donat-
pact router in a router table.
ing saw blades, Don Price of
A compact will do template
Malvern, Pennsylvania, wins a
routing and cut joinery, such
as modest-sized mortises. General International 7-piece
However, if you plan to use a Deluxe 8" Dado Blade Set
router for more demanding (item 55-185).
joinery eventually or for Each issue we toss new
heavy-duty profiling with
questions into a hat and
large bits, buy a mid-size Think of a compact router This workhorse could serve
draw a winner.
router in the 2hp range primarily for convenience: you well as your woodworking
with fixed and plunge bases it’s small and easy to steer skills grow. The accessories
instead. It’s more powerful by hand. A mid-size router market also is geared toward
and will accept both 1/4" and works great in a router table, mid-size models — all in all,
1/2" shank bits (compacts is still easy to maneuver for it’s a better long-term value.
only take 1/4" shanks, which handheld work and offers you — Chris Marshall
limits your options). a broader range of bit choices.
ENGRAVE IT. CUT IT. MARK IT.

The finishing touches start here.
C reating your own custom cabinet and wood finishing

designs has never been so easy. Epilog’s versatile laser
systems allow you to etch and engrave intricate designs and
inlays in a matter of minutes.
3D Engraving Inlays Photo Engraving Desktop systems starting at $7,995
To request a brochure, DVD, and samples, contact us at:

epiloglaser.com/wwj[email protected] 888-437- 4564 Golden, Colorado

Shop Talk
International Contest
Contestants used a variety of methods to accomplish their carvings.

Charles Chambata from Zambia employed a mallet and chisel.
that firsthand while attending An International Cohort

a lavish dinner at Master Although I was the only
Lu’s “workshop.” Master sculptor from the U.S., other
Lu Guangzheng is China countries represented includ-
Arts and Crafts Master and ed Argentina, Bhutan, Ecua-
Asia Pacific Region Arts and dor, Iceland, Japan, Norway,
Crafts Master. Master Lu to name a few. I already knew
employs hundreds of work- the only other woman in the
ers who carve and sand his group, Zina Manesa-Burloiu
picturesque panels. Prices from Romania. Right from
are high and sales obviously the start, she and I shared
The sculptures completed by Betty
brisk. Carving in China is stories, insight and laughter.
Scarpino and others will remain in Carving in China big business, and Dongyang, Terry Martin from Aus-
a museum in Dongyang, China.
I
had just three months the city we visited, is seen as tralia organized the interna-
to get in shape for eight China’s woodcarving capital. tionals. Part of his planning
days of intense wood- In Dongyang, we found included ensuring that each
carving in China. I was out of crowds of students, TV crews artist could either speak
shape and practice because and newspaper reporters, all English or act as a translator.
I had primarly been editing interested in the experience Despite minor communica-
American Woodturner for of the eight-day carving tion challenges, we all spoke
the last six years instead of competition. the language of “carving
working in my shop. I ac-
cepted the challenge in July
and jumped full swing into
biking, weightlifting and yard
work to build strength and
Photo Courtesy of Martin Bill
carving on a large sculpture

to reestablish woodworking
skills. As my plane lifted
off in October, I felt strong
and ready for the upcoming
adventure.
Betty used a chainsaw for initial
shaping and an angle grinder with In China, becoming a
a Saburr Tooth disc to add details Master Carver confers status Golden teak logs were provided for the 38 carvers (20 from China; 18 from
to her sculpture. and wealth. We witnessed elsewhere) participating in the competition.

wood.” As such, a feeling
of camaraderie grew as we
shared tools and helped each
other reposition impossibly
heavy chunks of wood.
The electricity in China is
220-volt, so I used a trans-
former, which allowed me to
use the power-carving tools I Master Lu Guangzheng’s workshop (right) boasts a massive carving
packed into a small suitcase. at its entrance; a detail of one of his carvings is shown above.
Even so, the tool I ended up
using the most turned out to suited for detail carving. Sur- This carving competition
be a small electric chainsaw. prisingly, the quality of our was part of the 50th anniver-
Most of our initial wood logs turned out to be pretty sary celebration of the World
removal was done by rough. Many still contained Crafts Council (WCC).
chainsaw, after which each the pith and some even in- The WCC had arranged a
of us resorted to a variety cluded rot. As a result of the display area for our sculptures
of cutting methods. Some stock provided, I ended up in a building that also housed
used mallets and chisels, but changing my design. booths of varied craft items
most employed power tools. Although some competi- from a range of countries.
Personally, I used an angle tors finished early, I needed We finished on Friday at
grinder with Saburr Tooth® every bit of the eight days 5:00 p.m., and by Saturday
discs and an Arbortech to complete my sculpture. morning, at the WCC’s open-
reciprocating power carver, Woodcarving competitions in ing ceremony, our carvings
both aggressive workhorses. China are extremely popular were on pedestals. I have to
As my sculpture took shape, and doing well in one can say, they looked stunning!
I switched to smaller rotary lead to higher prestige, so — Betty Scarpino
cutters for finer work. the Chinese carvers were Betty Scarpino (bettyscarpino.com) The bottom third of Betty’s original
We were provided with well seasoned and ready for is Woodworker’s Journal’s former sculpture (above) eventually had
golden teak, a traditional action; their forms emerged woodturning columnist and former to be removed: rot extended too
carving wood in China, well with ease. editor of American Woodturner. deeply into the piece.
Ye’s Carving Shop

Tin Tin, a reporter who made a documenta-
ry about my experiences in China, arranged
for Zina and me to meet Ye, a fellow woman
carver who lives in a small town a few miles
outside of Dongyang. Ye has her own shop
and employs five carvers and is working on
achieving Master Carver status.
In a fascinating side trip, Ye took us to see a nearby black-
smith where many of the tools for local carvers are forged. After
that we went to lunch and then strolled through a Buddhist
temple where visiting monks were chanting. By moving off the A local Chinese blacksmith
(above) makes carving tools. Ye,
usual tourist path, we gained an intimate glimpse of China.
a professional woodcarver (left), is
— Betty Scarpino working to reach Master status.

Woodturning
Working Turning Into Your Daily Life
By Ernie Conover
The lathe should be a go-to tool for home

repair and improvement.
The author even used his lathe to create a

better fit on a faucet replacement.
A
lthough I have always considered myself a
furniture builder with a turning problem, it’s
understandable why you might think of me
primarily as a woodturner. In fact, I hate to do any
piece of woodworking without including some turning.
I even work turning into my home repair. In this arti-
cle, I’ve provided some thoughts on ways to include
turning in your household, along with some projects I
have done over the years, with the hopes that they will
get your mind to thinking turning in all woodworking.

Alternate support is to put 1 x 3 trim
around the closet and cut a U-shaped
21/2" notch slightly bigger than the rod.
11⁄2" to 13⁄8” diameter rod

turned from oak, hickory
or ash
Support is 2 5⁄8"
Attach with diameter by 11⁄8”
three screws. thick. The center
hole is 1/16” larger
than the rod.
A closet rod is a simple spindle turning project, which
can be supported either with faceplate turnings or a
U-shaped notch cut into trim around the closet.
Clotheshorse Closet Rods knob for the lid, as it saves

My wife, Susan, is a talented wood. You can also turn your
fiber artist, so we both have knob as part of the lid if you
an affinity for clothes; much start with 5/4 or 6/4 material
of this clothing is wool or — but you have to sweep up
linen. I long ago grew tired a lot of shavings.
A closet rod you turn yourself will bear up much better under the weight of
of the box store clothes rods You can also turn wooden
clothing than the standard rod you purchase from a box store.
in our closets sagging under lids with a recess that offers a
the weight of our threads. snug fit for the original metal
The answer was simple: lid. This gives you a method
turn 11⁄ 2"-diameter clothes to create an attractive storage
rods from oak. The supports option from a jar that was
holding the rod will break previously headed straight
before the rod sags. I like to for the recycling bin.
faceplate turn the supports,
but simple housings cut in Lamp Finials
1x3 trim at either side work The average floor or table
well, too. This is simple lamp has a finial that secures
straight turning that gives a the shade to the harp. Many
high-end custom look to your are made of plastic and look
home. You can find construc- cheap. Turning a new finial is The original lid for this canister met a bad end. Faceplate turning a
tion details in the illustration a great project and one that replacement is a quick task that will make the owner very happy.
above and more information can be done in a mini-lathe.
on turning long, slender spin- There is one slight speed
dles in the April 2015 issue of bump to this project. The
Woodworker’s Journal. threaded stud on the top of a
lamp harp is of a very pecu-
Jar and Canister Lids liar pitch: 1/4"-27. Standard
Every home has at least one hardware threads are either
jar or canister with a missing 1/4" by 20 or 28 threads per
or broken lid. It is an easy inch. This leaves you with a
matter to turn a new one limited number of choices.
and give this jar or canister One is to buy a brass 1/4"-
a second life. This is a great 28 thread, superglue this
faceplate turning job that will into the blank for your finial
make the owner very happy. and accept that there will
These days, I do a separate be a bit of cross threading. Nice-looking jar with a screw lid? Turn a wood lid with a recess that the
spindle turning to create a Since the distance is small, metal one press fits into, and you’ve made yourself a new jar.

Woodturning continued
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video on woodturning for the
household, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click
on “More on the Web” under the
Magazine tab.
this usually is not a cheap plastic that came with

problem. Or, you could the lamp) sold by turning
order some 1/4"-27 nuts supply houses that would
from a lighting parts make dandy finials.
supplier (I use Grand You’ll drill a 1/2" counter-
Brass, grandbrass.com). bore in the finial blank, then
Another solution is drill deeper with a #3 twist
Drill a 1/2" counterbore in a finial blank, then drill deeper with a #3 twist drill. to drill a 1/2" counter- drill. Superglue in a 1/4"-28,
(This is a tap drill for 1.4" threads.) Superglue in a 1/4"-28, or even a 20, and tap bore in the blank with a or even a 20, and tap the nut.
the nut. You can do the tapping on the lathe. Forstner bit to the depth Using a live center in the
of the nut you’re going tailstock to support your tap
to use. On average, 1/4"- holder will ensure the thread
28 or 27 nuts are 7/16" is on an axis with the hole.
across the flats. This
puts the corner-to-cor- Other Options
ner distance at just a tad What else can you turn for
over 1/2", making them your home? The sky’s the
a press fit. Superglue limit — or is it your ceiling?
seals the deal. Before For instance, you could
pressing in the nut, you turn ceiling medallions for
may want to drill a tad chandeliers. Expensive or
deeper with a 1/4" drill unobtainable these days,
to give the excess screw they are nonetheless easy to
thread on the harp make with a sheet of plywood
someplace to go. and some wood scraps glued
Using a live center in the tailstock to support your tap holder will ensure the A final option is to to it. Straight scraping —
thread is on an axis with the hole. As you turn the finial between centers, catch order a 1/4"-27 tap from outboard, of course.
the nut with the tailstock’s live center. an industrial hardware, Circular molding. Can’t
such as McMaster-Carr buy it (or, if you can, it is
(www.mcmaster.com). ugly). Scrape your own with
Just run the tap through mitered pieces paper-jointed
a 1/4"-28 nut, and you to a disk of plywood.
are good to go. This is Escutcheons for doorbell
also a good option if you and garage door buttons. You
want to use plastic or can make them look much
tagua nut for the finial better than the cheap plastic
and tap it directly. escutcheons that come with
I have made a few such items today.
finials from tagua nut, Use your imagination and
which is the nut of the turn a woodturner’s eye
ivory palm tree and is toward your household.
indistinguishable from
ivory except by chemical Ernie Conover is the author of
The author shows a finished finial. Turning replacements for standard lamp finials test. There are a wide The Lathe Book, Turn a Bowl with
offers the opportunity to create a customized, attractive piece of decor and to use variety of turnable high Ernie Conover and The Frugal
materials ranging from wood to high quality plastics to tagua nut. grade plastics (not the Woodturner.

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ea t
6 Pros’ Top Gift Ideas
Id Gif
s
Gifts Dad Will Love ... Trust Us!

Looking for a thoughtful woodworking gift this Father’s Day? Here are
a few hints from our wish lists, plus some tried-and-true favorites.
T
o me, a great gift is something you’d truly
enjoy, but for whatever reason — usually
sticker shock — you hesitate to buy for
yourself. A really good ox hair brush falls
into that category, and it’s one of
those tools I would not want to be
without. Because it is comparatively
expensive, those who brush finish
Michael Dresdner may not know how much better it is than the
Ox Hair Brush cheap brushes they’re used to. Thus, it’s a perfect gift.
Ox hair is much softer than other fibers and bristles, so it holds a lot of finish and lays it out smoothly
with — and this is the important part — no brush marks. Yes, Dad will have to learn to clean and care for it,
but like any great tool, the difference between it and its cheaper brethren is remarkable.
A 2"-wide 100% ox hair brush from Gramercy Tools, perfect for shellac and lacquer, will run you at least
$50. If he prefers brushing varnish, Purdy makes a 2.5" straight or angled ox hair and china bristle blend
that’s ideal for thinned varnish or polyurethane. You can often find it for a street price below $40.
I
n our December 2012 issue, I tested
DeWALT’s new-to-market compact
plunge router — the DWP611PK.
I had always been a fan of laminate
trimmers, so these fresh little compacts
with plunge bases(!) definitely had my
attention. After I ran this router through
its paces, I liked it a lot — enough to give
Chris Marshall it our “Best Bet” award. Since then, I’ve
DeWALT used this tough 11⁄4-horsepower dynamo
DWP611PK over and over again. And honestly, I like it even better now
Compact than I did then. It has enough gusto to rout moderate-size
Plunge mortises or profiles without bogging down. The motor slips
Router in and out of its plunge or fixed bases easily. And the plunge
base has every good
aspect that you’d ex-
pect from a mid- or full-size plunge base, only in smaller form: the
grips are comfortable and offer good control, its plunge action is
smooth and predictable, and the depth stop system is easy to use.
Here are three of my favorite features: the sub-bases take
standard-sized guide collars for template work; it has two bright
LED lights that shed light down on the bit, and — simple though
this is — the fixed base has an extra-long, squared off end to give
your fingers better purchase when guiding it along narrow edges.
Will and should this little workhorse replace a mid-size router?
No. But boy, does it come in handy for smaller jobs. Obviously,
I don’t need one for Father’s Day, but trust me: your dear old
woodworking dad will love it. I know I would.

W
hen I walk into my shop, one
of the first things I look for is
my combination square. I find
it almost impossible to do any serious
woodworking without my handy combo square nestled into its loop on
my shop apron. And I admit that I really do have to look for it, because
of all my tools, I think I
misplace my combo square more
often than any other. It is very
Rob Johnstone
frustrating.
Combination
So if I was concocting a wish list for Father’s Day,
Square
it would start off with not just one, but two or three
combination squares. I’d like a 4" version, which I
have long coveted but never purchased. Added to
the 4" square, I would like a couple of “extra” 12"
models. These new 12-inchers would have special
storage places on my pegboard wall panels, so that
I could just walk over and grab one after I have mis-
placed the one that should be hanging on my shop
apron! My senior editor Chris Marshall suggests I
throw in an 18" rule, too. He uses his often, and it’s
even harder to lose!
K
eeping my tools organized and close at hand
is important, but buying the stuff that keeps
them organized isn’t nearly as fun as buying
the tools themselves. That’s why I’m asking for a cou-
ple of products this Father’s Day that will improve
my organization, but I don’t really want to spend my
own money on them.
The first is a new apron. I used to be a tool belt
guy, because I did mostly remodeling work. But, Dan Cary
a few years ago, I tried Rockler Joinery
a short-front shop apron Tool Bag
with shoulder straps, and Rockler Broad
I haven’t looked back. The Shoulder Apron
shoulder straps don’t hang
on the back of my neck
like a traditional apron. The new Rockler Broad Shoulder Apron fits the
bill and features even wider, padded shoulder straps than my old apron. It’s
also got a quick-release buckle and several pockets for pencils,
squares, and other small tools I use a lot.
I’m always looking for a tool bag that’s better than the one I
have, and I still do a fair amount of remodeling work, so the second
item on my list is Rockler’s Joinery Tool Bag. It features two deep
flat-bottom compartments that are perfect for hauling a screw
gun and impact driver or a couple of nail guns. Plus, the various
smaller pockets on the side are just the right size for holding boxes
of fasteners, pencils, a battery charger and other odds and ends.
That’s everything I need to complete a project.

My Top Tool continued
I
recommend gifting a Japanese handsaw as a great
present on any ol’ day, whether it’s Father’s Day
or otherwise. Japanese handsaws are easy to use,
affordable and very efficient. There are different options
of blade styles and sizes depending on the intended use
of the saw. So maybe you’ll decide to get two saws for the
avid woodworker!
Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke, which makes
Kimberly McNeelan them innately ideal to use for cutting straight lines. This
Japanese also allows the blade to be thinner than most Western
Handsaw handsaw blades because the blade won’t bind and fold.
That being said, you can get a saw with a blade stiffener
to assure the blade stays straight. A blade without the
blade stiffener can double to cut fairly straight lines but
will also flex enough to bend, which is really handy for making flush cuts against a flat surface. If
you do happen to damage the blade, it’s easy to order and install replacements.
As with any saw, another thing to note about Japanese handsaws is the size of the teeth. I
have one saw with very fine teeth and a high ratio of TPI (teeth per inch) for making fine
cuts, and I have one with a lower TPI and bigger teeth for cutting softer woods swiftly.
I use my Japanese saw frequently for dovetailing, cutting small things (like
dowels) and crosscutting rapidly with ease. The folks I’ve gifted this handy tool
to really enjoy it! Your dad will, too.
M
ost router junkies I
know (myself included)
aren’t happy unless they
have a screaming router in their
hands that’s shooting out shavings
faster than a pro ballplayer spits
chewin’ tobacco. But as useful as
these tools are on their own, you’ll
Sandor Nagyszalanczy get a lot more out of them by us-
M-Power ing the right accessories. One of
CRB7 MK3 the most versatile accessories I’ve
Router Base used recently is the CRB7 MK3 router base made by M-Power. The CRB7 At-
taches to your router like a regular edge guide and is designed to fit the majority
of routers currently on the market. Its large acrylic baseplate adds stability to the router during regular
edge routing, but that’s only the beginning. By attaching a
variety of small accessories that come with the CRB7, you
can plow adjustably spaced dadoes, rout accurately sized
mortises, or cut/shape precise holes, circles and arcs up to 4
feet in diameter. For accuracy, the CRB7 features a nice mi-
cro adjuster that makes it easy to tweak settings until they’re
dead-on. For even greater versatility, you can purchase an
optional edge guide bar, to use for edge-guided routing tasks,
or an edge trim kit for flush trimming and edge work. I really
like the CRB7’s large Bakelite ball-style handle, which is very
comfortable to hold. Overall, the build quality is excellent
and features precisely machined steel rods and various brass
and hard-anodized aluminum components. It’s a great gift for
anyone who owns a router.

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Miter Saw Station
By Ralph Bagnall
This space-saving shop solution

gives you the capacity to make
cuts on your miter saw without
sacrificing bench space.
D
uring a recent move, it looked is plenty to support the cut. Tucking it saw and straightedge. A sheet of rigid
like I might have to locate my under the counter lets me have my mi- foam insulation on top of the sawhorses
shop for some time in a two- ter station AND lots of bench space that (or even on the floor) allows you to
car garage. I found a more spacious does not need to be cleared off every make the cut without damaging your
solution, but this forced me to take a time I want to make a cut. So let’s begin blade or horses, while supporting the
hard look at how I could reduce my maximizing your shop space. whole sheet during the cut. Just set the
workspace without losing functionality. circular saw blade to cut through the
I have always thought that my miter Getting Started
saw took up a lot of space for the use it Even in a well-equipped
gets, so I spent some time considering shop, cutting a full sheet
how the support tables on either side of plywood when working
could serve the saw without sacrificing alone is difficult and dan-
bench space. gerous, so I reduce sheets
What I came up with was this miter into more manageable
saw station. It is essentially two stan- pieces using a circular
dard cabinets with the saw mounted
between them. Instead of drawers below
Once the full sheets are
the counter, a built-in shelf supports the crosscut using a circular saw,
lumber being cut. A 10" saw can really the parts are cut to final size
only cut about 71⁄2" wide, so 7" of width on the table saw.

You will use the leftovers from
cutting the cut shelf and back to
confirm the layout and make the
template for notching the sides and
dividers (photos above).
Mill grooves into the cut shelf,

plywood but not through the foam. then form the T-slots at the router
The cutting diagrams (see page 33) table (photo at right).
show you how the three plywood sheets
can best be sectioned by hand. Rip
about 1/4" to 3/8" off one long side to Sides/Dividers
provide a clean edge and crosscut as The sides and dividers all need
shown. The smaller sheets are then a large notch in the top front
ripped into the components using the corner to accept the cut shelf.
table saw, and then crosscut to length. There are six to cut exactly
the same, so a template is
Cut Shelf required. I used the cut shelf
The cut shelf needs to end up very flat sample from earlier to mark
and straight to work properly, so it gets out a template, then carefully
built first and the cabinets fabricated to cut and sanded the notch.
fit the shelf. Save the waste when you Cleats added to the top and
crosscut the two shelf parts and the front edges of the template en-
shelf back; they will be useful as setup sure alignment. I marked and
parts for the next step. rough-cut all six parts on the
Unlike a portable saw stand, this band saw, then flush-trimmed
Miter Station provides two continuous them to match the template.
surfaces extending out from each side The bottom inside edges
of the blade, perfect for adding a stop of the sides get a 1/8"-deep
system. Before assembling the shelves, rabbet for the deck, and a
cut two T-slots in them for stops. Plow 1/2"-wide by 3/8"-deep dado
3/8" grooves down the length of the
shelves (see Drawing on page 33). Fol-
low up with a T-slot cutter on the router
table. This makes adding stops easy (I
used Rockler’s Inline stops).
With the cut shelves milled, the backs Template
can be attached. Nothing fancy here:
they get glued and pocket screwed
along the back edge of the cut shelves.
Start at one end and screw them on,
working across, keeping them exactly
flush with the back edge of the cut
shelves. I assembled the cutoffs, too, so Glue and pocket screw the cut shelf's back panel to the cut shelf (photo showing drill in use,
I have a sample part that will come in above). You will use the cut shelf sample to mark out the router template (left photo) for cutting the
handy during some setup later. notches in all the upright parts (right photo).

Miter Saw Station Hard-to-Find Hardware
T-Slot Cutter (1) #26099 .................................................. $29.99 ea.
Inline Stop (1) #43807 ........................................................ $6.99 ea.
Adjustable Leveler Leg (1) #32183 .............................. $17.49 pk.
To purchase this and other products online,
visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/hardware
Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577).
to accept the back. This is

where the sides become
Mount the cut shelf across the sides and dividers,
lefts and rights. It is just a and nail it into place to hold it while you’re
shop cabinet, but there is no driving screws.
point in not having the best
faces showing.
The final step in making
the sides is to drill a line of
1/16" pilot holes along the
centerline of the rabbet. You’ll
thank me for this tip as you
assemble. The dividers need
nothing other than the notch.
The cabinet sides get a shallow rabbet along the bottom edge
to accept the deck and a dado that the back will slide into. The cabinets sit on plastic leveling legs. Mount
Deck the brackets to the underside before attaching
The two decks only require the legs.
a 1/8"-deep, 3/4"-wide dado
milled front-to-back along The routed notches in the cabinets
the centerline to locate the have a rounded inside corner. It is
divider. Again, drill a series easier to round over the back of the cut
of 1/16" pilot holes along the shelves to match rather than squaring
dado centerline. Now you can all the notches.
assemble the basic cabinets. Now the cut shelf can be added to each
carcass. The ends mount flush with the
Carcass Assembly sides, but I marked the center of the shelf
Attach one side to the end to help get the divider in the right place. I
of the deck with glue and glued and nailed everything to hold it as
screws. Then attach the I drilled pilot holes and screwed through
other side in the same way the shelf into the notches.
Pre-drilling pilot holes from the inside of the rabbet makes and screw through the deck You may have noted the lack of a toe
assembling the cabinet much easier. into the divider. kick. Because the cut shelves need to
be aligned very accurately across the
A simple roundover on the back station, I chose to use adjustable level-
corner of the cut shelves (inset photo) ing legs to support the cabinets. This
allows them to seat properly into the
is the easiest way to precisely level and
notches in the upright parts.
straighten the whole setup, and they are
easy to use.
I drilled 5/8" locating holes in the
four corners of each deck and near
the centerline. I spaced them about
2" in from the ends and 3" in from the
front/back. The leveler bracket has an
expanding boss that fits into this hole.
Driving the pin in from the outside
spreads the boss, holding the bracket in
place as you secure it with the included
screws. The leveler legs then snap into
the brackets. Turning the feet adjusts
the height up or down.

1
Cut Shelf Assembly
(Side View)
7 6"
6
6
2" 5
73/4"
Divider
(Side View) 5
Tray Support Frame
(Top View)
63/4" 8 12
11
73/4"
10
4 325/8"
4
3
9
12
3 10 11
21"
MATERIAL LIST
Cabinet TxWxL 2
1 Tops (2) 3/4" x 22" x 52"
2 Decks (2) 3/4" x 22" x 463⁄4" Deck
3 Sides (4) 3/4" x 22" x 331⁄4" (Top View)
4 Dividers (2) 3/4" x 21" x 325⁄8"
5 Cut Shelves (2) 3/4" x 73⁄4" x 48" 3
/4" 23"
6 Cut Shelf Backs (2) 3/4" x 6" x 48"
7 Top Buildups (2) 3/4" x 7" x 52" 2 22"
8 Back (1) 1/2" x 471⁄4" x 321⁄2"
1
Saw Tray /8" deep
9 Saw Tray Shelf (1) 3/4"x 12" x 24

10 Tray Front Support (1) 3/4" x 2" x 24" 463/4"
11 Tray Side Supports (2) 3/4" x 2" x 111⁄4"
12 Tray Rear Support (1) 3/4" x 2" x 221⁄2" Top Buildup Assembly
(End View)
22"
Plywood Sheets Cutting Diagrams
7 1
7"
1
/2"
Side
Second 35"
1
(Inside View) /2"
63/4"
Second 34"
3 3 7
Second 55"
4 4 5
73/4"
6
331/4"
3
3
/8" deep
First cut 55"
First cut 48"
First cut 35"
1 1 2 2
3 3 3
/4" 1
/8" deep
22"

Set the cabinet on its legs from the top of the cut shelf the same
and slide the 1/2" plywood distance as the height of the miter saw
back into the back rabbet. It measured previously. Mine was 31⁄4".
rests on the deck and stiffens Clamp the saw shelf between the cab-
the cabinet. A couple of brads inets close to the lines. Set the clamps
through the sides will keep the just tight enough to hold it in place.
unit from racking. Use a mallet to tap it into final position,
and firmly clamp it in place, but do not
Check the height of your miter saw bed to determine its
placement between the cabinets.
Saw Tray screw it in yet. Set the saw on the shelf
Now the miter saw needs a and check to see that you have the
place to sit. I have included the positioning right. The saw deck should
dimensions used for my saw, but be perfectly level with the cut shelf, and
you may need to adjust them for the fence of the saw flush with the cut
your particular saw. shelf back. This shelf worked out to be
I cut the shelf parts from flush with the front of the cabinets. Oth-
the remainder of the plywood. ers may not. No worries: adjust the shelf
Measuring my miter saw, it was position until the saw lines up properly.
clear that I would need 24" of When positioned, screw the shelf into
space to swing the saw, and at place. Two or three 11⁄4" screws in each
least 12" to bolt all four feet to side will hold any miter saw that you can
the shelf. To stiffen the shelf, lift. Do not yet secure the saw.
I added 2"-wide drop edges
around the shelf bottom. I then Level and Straight
The shelf supporting the miter saw should be clamped in
carefully checked the height of This bit can be tedious, but it is crucial
place and adjusted before you screw it to the cabinets. the saw cutting surface. You’ll for accurate cutting. To adjust the cut
need this dimension when you shelf even with the saw fence, set a long
mount the shelf. straightedge centered on the saw fence,
and align the cabinets until everything
Setting the Cabinets is touching the straightedge.
I set these without the tops or The cabinets are held together by
doors in place. The weight is the saw shelf, so you may need to shim
manageable and the interiors between the saw shelf and cabinets
are open for easy access. Set front or back to achieve this. Loosen but
the two cabinets generally level do not remove the screws, add wedges
and spaced apart by the width of until things are where you want them,
Adjust the leveling legs until the cut shelves are flat your saw shelf. To mark the saw and re-tighten the screws.
along their combined length. shelf position, measure down Next, stand the straightedge verti-
cal and adjust the cabinet height until
the straightedge is in contact with the
Use a straightedge to adjust the shelf until the

bed of the miter saw is exactly in line with the
cut shelves, front to back and top to bottom.

The author secured the cabinet tops to the sides and dividers with The T-slots you cut earlier in the process make it easy to set stops anywhere
pocket screws. along the cut shelves.
miter saw table and cut shelf all the project, so it was easy to make these at
way across. The leveling legs will make the same time.
this a lot easier. The levelers allow for The doors are hung with cup hinges,
adjusting all four corners of the cabinets which make them easy to adjust after
largely independently. Remember that hanging them. I made up a template for
level would be nice, but STRAIGHT is drilling pilot holes for the hinge plates.
what is important. This saves a lot of time and frustration.
I did not fasten these cabinets to the Just remember that
wall. I left room behind so the cords of the template will rest
my bench tools could be kept out of the on top of the deck, but
work area. If you want to secure yours, your door should align
no problem, but be careful not to mis- 1/8" up from the bot-
align the cut shelves as you do so. tom edge of the deck.
Fixed shelves
Tops or even adjustable
You can use premade laminated shelves could be used,
countertops from the home center. The but I hate having to
tops on my unit are simple plywood kneel down to find
panels. The top is supported by the things in the back,
sides, divider, cut shelf and back, so it so I made pullouts.
should remain flat over time. The 7" These are cut from the
overhang on the front worried me a bit same 1/2" ply as the
so I doubled it up, gluing and nailing on backs and are simple,
a 7"-wide strip to the underside to resist open boxes 3" tall. I
sagging. My tops are cut to 54" for a bit plan to store cased
The doors are mounted with cup hinges. You can add shelves or
more bench space. The inside edge is tools (routers, dado pullouts to maximize the cabinet space.
flush on the saw side, and the overhang sets, nail guns and the
is on the outside. like) on the deck and hardware in the the door side, but I like having an even
I drilled pocket screw holes in both pullouts. This way I’ll be able to access gap on both sides.
sides and the divider. The top is set in everything easily. And there you have it. An 8' miter
place with the buildup tight to the cut The only thing to keep in mind with station with adjustable stops, over 17
shelf back, then screwed in place. pullouts is that, unlike fixed shelves or square feet of usable bench space,
even normal cabinet drawers, pullouts and nearly 30 cubic feet of storage all
Doors and Shelves need to clear the door. This means that contained within 21 square feet of floor
This article is about the cut shelf, so I the pullout width needs to be 1" smaller space. Perfect for small shops, and very
won’t go into details on door construc- than the opening for the slides, and an convenient for larger ones, too.
tion. Simple slab doors cut from another extra inch is needed to clear the door. I
sheet of 3/4" ply or whatever would built mine 3" narrower than the space, Ralph Bagnall is a woodworking consultant and
work just as well. I happened to be and added a 1"-thick cleat to each side. author working from his shop in Florida. His
making stile-and-rail doors for another Technically, you only need to cleat on website is www.consultingwoodworker.com.

Redwood
Slab Vanity
By Brad Holden
Furniture made from slab

lumber is growing in popularity.
This vanity uses sustainably
harvested redwood burl.

A
t first glance, this elegantly
curved bathroom vanity with
its chunky live-edge countertop
looks like quite a challenging piece,
but it’s really not all that difficult. That
exquisite slab of redwood didn’t need
much help to make it beautiful; it just
needed protection. The high-gloss
finish is a self-leveling epoxy that gives
the counter a hard, durable surface.
I made the curved cabinet and doors
using bendable plywood and a simple Lay out the countertop’s wall-edge cut on the slab, as well as the location of the cabinet’s parts,
using masking tape. Precious lumber like this benefits from the “measure twice, cut once” proverb.
bending form. Every slab of wood is a
little different in size and shape, so this long cut (photo, center right). This slab
article is meant to guide you through was close to 3" thick, so I finished the
the process. cut with a hand saw and then smoothed
the cut edges with a hand plane. You
Start with the Slab could make the cut on a band saw if you
Since the slab determines the size and have a helper to catch it as it comes out.
shape of the cabinet that goes under it, In this case, the offcut is just as lovely
that’s the place to start. First, decide as the main countertop, so I decided
which side of the slab will be the top. it would make a great shelf to comple-
This one was obvious, as it had a huge ment the countertop. Also, to bring
crater on one side. As the slab will go an element of the slab to the cabinet, I
against a wall, obviously it needs to be cut two strips from the offcut’s edge to
cut to make a straight edge. After con- make book-matched trim for the doors
sidering that cut, a semicircular cabinet (photo, below right). Cut the slab using a circular saw and a guide.
seemed like a natural choice, as it would Slabs like this one are a challenge, as If your saw won’t cut all the way through, finish
roughly mimic the shape of the finished there are often voids of all shapes and the cut with a hand saw and then clean up the
edges with a hand plane or sanding block.
countertop. sizes. Use epoxy to fill the voids before
Before making any cuts, make the proceeding. This slab had one large
slab as flat as possible. A drum sander hole all the way through. To fill the
— like the SuperMax 19-38 — makes hole, I applied tape to the top surface,
easy work of the task, as its open end covering the hole. Then, I flipped the
allows for sanding pieces up to 38" wide. slab over and filled the hole from the
Alternatively, you could use a belt sand- bottom (top photo, following page). I
er or a hand plane. I was very happy to used black TransTint® from Rockler (a
have the use of a drum sander, as the tint created with aniline dye) mixed into
belt sander and I have never been very the epoxy, so that the hole wouldn’t be
good friends, and a hand plane would transparent.
have meant hours of labor. After the epoxy cured, I flipped the
After flattening the slab, make a piece over to determine what areas of
rough layout of the cabinet using tape to the top needed pre-filling. Most large
determine where to make the cut (see voids will take several applications to
top photo, this page). fill them, as the epoxy will continue to Our author cut two thin strips from the back
Use a track saw or a shop-made saw flow until it finds the end of the hole, or edge of the offcut. He used these strips to make
guide for your circular saw to make the a way out. When you’re doing this, put book-matched trim for the doors.

plastic or cardboard on After filling the voids to my satisfac-
the floor and use wax tion, I let the epoxy cure for a couple of
paper under the slab. days before taking it back to the drum
It’s going to be messy. sander as shown in the photo, below
This can take multiple left. If you try sanding it too early, it’ll
pours, so be patient. just gum up the sandpaper and make
Sometimes, what a mess. To see if it’s ready to sand,
appears to be a small try sanding it with a sanding block. If
surface crack can actu- it feels even a bit sticky or the epoxy
ally be a hidden cavern balls up, wait longer. When the epoxy
Fill large voids with tinted epoxy. Black is a good choice for a dark
that seemingly has no is cured, sand both sides of the slab
piece like this. This slab had a hole all the way through, so he cov-
ered the hole with tape, flipped the slab, and filled it from the bottom. end. Or, as was the case flat and then finish with a random orbit
for my slab, there were sander up to 220-grit.
a couple of cracks that When the slab and shelf are sand-
presented no easy way ed, it’s time to start applying finish.
to block the exit. In the To apply MirrorCoat® epoxy, set the
end, I decided to move workpiece on sawhorses and then shim
on and let them be and level it. Leveling the workpiece is
cracks in the finished essential, as MirrorCoat is thin and will
piece. continue to flow as it cures, and you
For voids at the edge want it to flow evenly over the whole
of the slab, dam them surface. Mix up a half-cup or so of epoxy
up with tape before and pour some on. You can always mix
pouring (photo, center more if you run short, but if you mix
left). Depending on too much it’s a waste. Use a foam brush
your preference, you to spread the epoxy over the entire
can use clear or tinted surface. Here again, cover the floor with
Create a dam using masking tape to fill any voids at the edges of the epoxy for these voids. plastic and place wax paper between the
workpiece. When the epoxy cures, sand the edge square. slab and the sawhorses.
After you’ve spread the epoxy over
the entire surface, you’ll notice air
bubbles starting to appear; that’s when
it’s time to apply some heat. Using a pro-
pane torch, just wave the flame over the
finish and watch the bubbles disappear
(photo, upper right, next page). Keep
the flame moving so you don’t burn the
epoxy. Let the finish rest for 15 minutes
or so, and then revisit it with the torch.
This finish will likely take three or
four applications. You don’t have to
sand between coats as long as the next
coat is applied within 72 hours of the
last one. That said, I sanded anyway to
make sure the surface was nice and flat.
Between applying coats of epoxy, you
can start building the cabinet.
Sand off the excess epoxy after it has fully

cured, using a drum or belt sander. A
SuperMax 19-38 open-ended drum sander easily
makes a perfectly flat surface. Finish up with a
random orbit sander or by hand-sanding.

Set the countertop and shelf on sawhorses
and level them using shims. MirrorCoat epoxy
is self-leveling, so if the piece isn’t level, the
epoxy will flow toward the low side or end. Pour mixed MirrorCoat epoxy
onto the slab and then spread
it using a disposable foam
Making a Bending Form brush. Place wax paper
To make this curved cabinet, I laid up underneath the slab and
three layers of 1/4" bendable plywood use plastic or cardboard to
on a bending form (photo sequence protect the floor.
Use a propane torch to get rid of air bubbles after the epoxy settles
below). The outer plywood layer is
for a few minutes. Keep the torch moving so you don’t burn the epoxy.
veneered with ribbon stripe mahogany.
My bending form consists of a base, line, then sand the rest of the way. Use bendable plywood to the ribs. This layer
four ribs and one layer of 1/4" bendable this first rib as a pattern to rout the rest of bendable plywood helps to prevent
plywood. Lay out the arc with a large of the ribs. Screw the ribs to the base. I flat spots in the finished lamination.
compass. Since this arc is the inside didn’t glue the ribs to the base because Mark a centerline across the form to
radius of the doors, it should be about 1" I don’t have room to store the form, and help line up the laminations when you’re
smaller than the doors’ exterior radius. I wanted to be able to disassemble it gluing them. This helps keep every-
Band-saw this first piece close to the and reuse the parts. Staple one layer of thing straight and square.
1 2 3
Lay out an arc to make ribs for a bending form Use either a band saw or a jigsaw to rough-cut Trace and rough-cut the remaining ribs close
for the doors. This arc represents the doors’ the arc and then sand carefully to your line to to the line. Use the first rib as a pattern to rout
inside radius. fair the curve. them to their final dimension.
4 5 6
Screw all the ribs to a base. The author didn’t Staple one layer of bendable plywood to the ribs Mark a centerline on the form and the edges
use glue so that he could easily disassemble the to make a substrate for the form. This helps the of all of the laminations, so you can keep them
form and reuse its parts. laminations bend smoothly, with no flat spots. reasonably lined up and square on the form.

goes smoothly, do it in stages, letting
Use ratcheting tie-down straps
to clamp the laminations around
the first two layers cure before apply-
the form. The more clamps, the ing the third. Apply glue to the bottom
better. Let the arc cure overnight lamination using a foam paint roller.
before removing the clamps. These rollers work great for spreading
Apply glue to the laminations and then bend them around glue, and you can wash them out with
the form. Because there’s so much to do here, our author Building the Arc water and reuse them. Bend the first
did this in stages, allowing the first two laminations to cure Cut three pieces of bendable layer around the form and then apply
before applying the third.
plywood slightly larger than the second lamination (photo above, far
you’ve determined you’ll need left). Use ratchet straps to clamp the
for the finished arc. Make laminations (inset photo, above). Let
sure they don’t extend beyond them cure overnight and then glue and
the bottom edges of the form, clamp the outer layer.
however. Mark
centerlines on Sizing Up the Curve
the edges of After removing the finished arc from the
all three pieces form, you’ll need to make two straight
so you can line edges and two square ends. The edges
them up with are pretty straightforward: just run it
the centerline through the table saw with the convex
on the form. side down, rolling it as you go. The ends
Cover the form with wax paper are a different matter. As a starting
After trimming the arc’s edges, set it on a flat surface and
use a straightedge to mark where you’ll cut both ends so that you don’t glue the lami- point, set the curve on a flat surface
square. Using a tall fence, the author clamped the arc, nations to the form. such as your bench. Lay a straightedge
rotating it until the mark he made was square to the table. To make sure the glue-up on the bench against one of the curve’s
edges. Make a mark along the top of the
straightedge where it meets the curve,
on both ends (photo, center left). Repeat
this step on the other edge.
If you don’t have a sliding fence for
your table saw, this is a good time to
build one. It’s simply a fence that fits
over your saw’s fence; just snug enough
so that there’s no play but it’ll still slide.
Fasten a tall board to the sliding fence
using either screws or clamps. Clamp
the arc to the board so that the marks
you made on the edges are perpendicu-
lar to your saw’s table. Check the marks
with a square and adjust if necessary.
Slide the whole assembly through the
saw, as shown in the bottom right photo
on the opposite page, and then repeat
the process on the other end of the arc.
Once the arc is square, lay out the
With the arc clamped securely to a sliding
fence jig, slide the whole assembly past the
blade to square one end. Repeat the process to
square the other end.

10
When working with natural slab

lumber, each piece will be unique.
Accommodations for the size and
shape of the slab will need to be
part of the planning process if you 1
attempt to build this project.
Remove material from the center divider

8 4
as needed to install the plumbing.
5 4
2
3 9
6
11
7
MATERIAL LIST 1
TxWxL 6
1 Cabinet Top and Bottom (2) 3/4" x 143⁄4" x 271⁄4"
2 Back (1) 3/4" x 18" x 271⁄4"
3 Center Divider (1) 3/4" x 147⁄8" x 171⁄4" Vanity Hard-to-Find Hardware
4 Sides (2) 3/4" x 3" x 18" Redwood Slab: Available from Rockler; prices vary.
5 Doors (2) 5/8" x 203⁄4" x 18" Stainless Steel Bar Pull (2) #20417 .......................... $11.99 ea.
6 Door Appliques (2) 1/8" x 21⁄2" x 18" Stainless Steel Piano Hinge (1) #33958 ................ $31.99 ea.
Low Profile Magnetic Catches (4) #26534 .............. $3.99 ea.
7 Door Pulls (2) 1/2" x 61⁄8"
MirrorCoat Bar/Tabletop Finish (1 pk.) #29138 ... $74.99 ea.
8 Piano Hinges (2) 11⁄2" x 161⁄2" Blind Shelf Supports (2 pr.) #20103 ..........................$19.49 ea.
9 Corner Brackets (6) 1/16"x 2" x 2"
To purchase this and other products online,
10 Slab Top (1) 21⁄2" x 191⁄2" x 38" visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/hardware
11 Magnetic Door Catches (4) 5/16" x 13/16" x 11⁄8" Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577).
rest of the cabinet parts. Start by tracing

the arc onto a piece of stock that will
become the cabinet’s top or bottom,
allowing room for the cabinet’s narrow
sides (bottom left photo, this page). Af-
ter laying out the cabinet, use hot-melt
glue to temporarily stick the top and bot-
tom together. Band-saw close to the line
and then sand the rest of the way. Check
the curve against the top and bottom to
see if you need to trim any more from
the ends of the arc. If so, trim them like
you did before.
Split the arc into two equal size doors Trace the arc onto the cabinet’s top or bottom. Once you’ve calculated the cabinet’s dimensions and
using the same table saw and fence jig laid out the narrow sides, you may need to trim the arc’s ends a bit more, just like you did in the previ-
setup used to trim the ends of the arc. ous step. Cut the arc into two equal-sized doors using the same setup you used to trim the arc’s ends.

MORE ON THE WEB
For a video on making bent wood
laminations using a form, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click
on “More on the Web” under the
Magazine tab.
Building the Cabinet

Make the narrow cabinet sides by laminating more bend-
able plywood. I used four layers here so I could make more
substantial rabbets for fastening the sides to the cabinet.
Glue up laminations for the cabinet’s sides. Use four layers here to
The thicker sides also give a little more “meat” for the hinge
accommodate more substantial rabbets for gluing the cabinet together.
screws. Make the pieces oversize, so you can square up the
edges later (photo, above left).
To laminate the pieces, I used I-beam style clamping plat-
forms to ensure that they’d come out flat. Be careful when
applying clamping pressure, as the glue can cause the pieces
to slide. While the side laminations are drying, cut the remain-
ing cabinet parts, making any necessary rabbets and dadoes
(photo, center left).
When the sides are dry, trim them to final dimension and
then rabbet them for the top, bottom and back. Assemble
the cabinet as shown in the left photo, below. Because this
cabinet hangs on the wall and holds a lot of weight, use plenty
of screws and glue. I added “L”-brackets to further secure the
back to the sides.
Attach the hinges to the doors using just a couple of screws.
Pre-hang both doors to check their fit (bottom right photo,
below). I used piano hinges because they offer lots of support.
Unfortunately, they don’t offer much adjustability, so you may
have to do some trimming to get the doors to fit just right.
Cut and rabbet all of the cabinet’s parts. Use a miter gauge with a long
When you’re satisfied, remove the doors and apply iron-on
fence to dado the top and bottom for the center divider.
Assemble the cabinet using glue and screws. Don’t skimp on the screws, Pre-hang both doors to check their fit. Make any necessary adjustments at
as this cabinet hangs on the wall and carries a fair amount of weight. this time. Our author used piano hinges as they provide plenty of support
Melamine-covered sheet stock is a perfect choice for the cabinet. for these wide doors.

Offcut Shelf Accent
After I cut the shape for the vanity top, I had a piece remaining
that made a nice shelf — and I sure didn’t want a sliver of this
wood to go to waste! Thinking it through, I didn’t want to see
any hardware on this shelf, so I used an invisible mounting
system available from Rockler to mount it to the wall. The
mounting system consists of small steel plates that mount to the wall, set screws Hidden shelf-
support hardware makes
and 5”-long hexagonal rods that thread onto the set screws. Use as many support the shelf look as if it’s coming
rods as necessary. For this shelf, two would have probably been enough, but I used right out of the wall.
four because I like things a little “overbuilt.”
You’ll drill 7/16”-dia. holes that the wall-mounted rods will slide into to support the shelf.
Because my shelf is wide at one end and narrow at the other, I had to cut two of the rods short.
Cut mortises in the back edge of the shelf to house the mounting plates, allowing the shelf
to slide all the way against the wall.
edge-banding to the cabinet’s raw edges

if you wish. I chose not to veneer the
doors’ edges. They don’t show until you
open the doors, and I think the plywood
edge adds to the modern flair of the
piece.
Applying the Door Trim

Cut the doors’ trim pieces to length and
sand or plane them to final thickness.
These pieces were cut off of the edge of
the piece of redwood that I made into an
accent shelf (see sidebar above). They Glue and clamp the book-matched strips to the Mask off the doors around the trim strips and
should be no more than 1/8" thick so inner edge of each door. These strips should be then apply epoxy to just the strips, using a
very thin, so they’ll flex around the curved doors. brushing technique instead of pouring.
they’ll bend around the doors’ curves.
Use glue and lots of clamps to attach the cabinet. When the finish is dry, re- details can vary. All in all, I found this to
them to the doors as shown in the left hang the doors and install handles and be a very satisfying project, and I think
photo, center of this page. Because of catches (photo, below right). I found it it looks just great in our bathroom.
the bend I was putting in these pieces, best to wait to remove any material from
I left the clamps on overnight to make the internal divider until I was ready to Brad Holden is a woodworker in Minneapolis and
sure the glue was well cured. mount the sink and plumbing. Those a former contributor to American Woodworker.
If you want the finish on the doors’
trim pieces to match the counter, mask
closely around them and then apply ep-
oxy. For this application, use a brushing
technique instead of pouring it on and
spreading like you did with the counter
(right photo, center of this page). You
don’t want the epoxy to flow over the
edges and pool up on the tape, because
it takes forever to remove the tape
cleanly. Ask me how I know! You’ll have
to apply two or three coats.
To finish up your project,
you’ll need to take care of
Finishing Up a few final details: remove
Apply the finish of your choice to material to install your
the cabinet sides and doors. Attach plumbing, and install the
the countertop to the cabinet using door hardware.
countersunk screws driven from inside
Woodworker’s Journal June 2015

A Northwoods Paddle
By Dan Cary
Learn to make a traditional

solid wood canoe paddle, a
tool that travelers in these
parts have been making and
using for hundreds of years.
T
here’s a special place on the shore of Lake Superior, in class at a school like North House are meeting and working
Grand Marais, Minnesota, that combines the loves of with other people that share your enthusiasm and the insights
handmade crafts, the outdoors and northern tradi- you gain from the instructor. Mike Schelmeske, a resident of
tions. That place is the North House Folk School, a school Grand Marais who has been making paddles and other hand
that offers classes about such varied topics as woodworking, tools for over 30 years, taught my class. He’s made nearly 200
pottery, blacksmithing, traditional outdoor skills, boat making paddles and helped others make another 200.
and cooking. I recently spent a couple of days there when the
activities on campus included basket weaving, sausage mak- Choosing the Wood
ing, canoe building and, in my case, making a paddle. Contrary to many assumptions, a paddle does not have to be
I can explain the basic process of making a paddle and made from moisture-resistant wood. As long as you apply a
share the plans with you, but I don’t think I’ll do the experi- finish and hang your paddle to dry thoroughly after each use,
ence justice. You can learn to make most projects with a good you can make a paddle out of just about any wood. The best
set of plans and instructions, but the benefits of attending a wood species for paddles are both strong and lightweight.

Mark the center of the board’s growth
ring pattern on the end of the board.
Then draw a centerline on the wide
face. Determine how long your paddle
will be and mark the top and bottom
ends of the paddle on the centerline.
Then trace the blade and handle (inset
photo) patterns on both sides of the
centerline. Measure 9/16" out on either
side of the centerline and draw lines to
designate the 11⁄8"-thick shaft between
the blade and handle. Next, use a band
saw to cut out the paddle shape.
Mark lines along the length of the shaft that are 1/4" in from each edge on Trace the Side View template onto the side of the handle. Notice that
the top and bottom faces. Then mark lines 5/16" in from each edge on the the top of the template extends beyond the corner of the handle so that it
side faces. These lines designate the radius of the shaft edges. aligns with the longest point at the handle’s centerline.
Mike’s go-to choice is basswood. Other popular options and use the same templates and techniques to make a lami-
include white cedar and Alaskan yellow cedar. These woods nated paddle. Keep in mind that using multiple wood species
tend to have less character to their grains, but they are light- and grain directions in the same paddle blank may create
weight and easy to shape. If you’d like something with more hand planing challenges.
interesting character, then you might choose a hardwood,
such as ash, black cherry or walnut, but these woods will be Shaping
heavier. Another consideration to keep in mind is that more The steps to make a paddle are fairly easy to follow. As the
interesting grain patterns tend to be more challenging to old woodcarver’s joke goes, you simply start with a piece of
plane. Whatever species you choose, start with a piece that is stock and remove all the wood that doesn’t look like a paddle.
5/4" thick by at least 7" wide by roughly 60" long (the length Depending on your ability with a hand plane, making your first
depends on the intended paddler’s height; see photo, page 46). paddle will take the better part of a weekend. You can speed
It’s also best to select a board that has a symmetrical growth up the initial blade planing process (photo 4, page 46) with a
ring pattern. power planer, but the rest of the shaping is best done with hand
planes, a spokeshave and maybe a carving or crooked knife.
Design The goal is to remove as much material as you can without
There are countless variations of paddle designs. Mike had a compromising strength. The most common mistake for partic-
selection of several templates that he has collected over the ipants in my class was actually being too cautious and not
years. He was even kind enough to share his 26" Northwoods removing enough material. Unfortunately, knowing when to
beavertail style blade and handle templates for you to use stop removing material is something that comes with expe-
(see Drawing, page 46).We made a traditional solid wood rience — another reason attending a class with a seasoned
paddle, but you can also laminate multiple pieces together instructor was helpful.

Blade Pattern MORE ON THE WEB
Front View For a video on making a
paddle at the North House
Folk School, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and
click on “More on the Web”
under the Magazine tab.
Author Dan Cary

demonstrates 1
how to determine
how long your The tip and edges of the paddle’s blade should be 1/4" thick or slightly less.
paddle should Mark this thickness on the edge of the blade. Use a jack or smoothing plane
be to fit your to taper the blade faces. Start the taper 2" to 3" below the intersection of
body frame. the blade and the shaft.
A properly sized
paddle should
rest with the
blade on the
ground and the
top of the handle
just touching
the bottom of
your chin.
Shaft Blank
Section View

4

Shape the shaft, using the lines you drew (see photos on previous page).
Round over the edges to create a comfortable grip. The amount of roundover
is a matter of personal preference. Leave a short section in the middle of
the shaft square for clamping.
Begin shaping the shaft by
chamfering the corners.
Handle Patterns
Front and Side Views
Front View
7
Shape the radius corners with a block plane. Work in from the end of the
handle to prevent chipping on the edges. Continue shaping the handle
Side View
with a combination of the block plane, spokeshave and carving knives.
Finishing
There are two schools of thought when it comes to finishing
a paddle. One approach is to use a marine varnish or epoxy to
provide maximum protection. The downside of this approach
is that when the finish eventually breaks down, it requires
more work to refinish. The other approach, the one that Mike
endorses, is to apply an oil finish, such as tung oil finish, that

2 3
Draw a new centerline on the blade faces. Use a block plane to taper from Use a spokeshave to shape the transition between the shaft and the blade.
the centerline out to the edges of the blade. This taper should be flat and The goal is to create a smooth, seamless transition. Remove small amounts
not rounded. Use a straightedge or the edge of the plane sole to check for on each side of the shaft and check frequently to keep the transition
high spots. symmetrical.
5 6
Draw radius corners on the end of the handle. Like the shaft shape, the Use a spokeshave to create the concave sides of the handle, using the
amount of radius is a matter of personal preference. Some people prefer a lines drawn on the side of the handle. Test the grip and continue to remove
flatter handle, and others prefer a more rounded, bulbous handle. material until the grip is comfortable.
8 9
Round over the top of the handle. Try to create smooth transitions between The final shaping step is to reposition the clamp on a finished section of
all surfaces of the handle and shaft. Cradling the handle and using a push- the shaft, using a clamping block with a V-notch to secure the paddle.
ing motion works well for making controlled cuts on the end grain. Then shape the last section of shaft to smoothly blend with the rest of it.
will seal the wood, but does not create a thick film layer. An oil time you use it. Even if you choose not to make a paddle, I
finish must be reapplied more frequently, depending on how highly recommend seeking out a craft school in your area and
much use the paddle gets. In either case, the best way to keep enrolling in a class. The experience will leave you with new
your paddle in good condition is to hang it up to dry thoroughly skills, a new project and new friends.
after each use.
Whether you make one for yourself or as a gift, making a Dan Cary is senior web producer at Woodworker’s Journal and the former
paddle is a very satisfying project. It will pay you back every editor of HANDY magazine.

Shop Test
Jobsite Radios
By Sandor Nagyszalanczy
In the wee hours in the shop, it’s often only the sound of a local
radio show that keeps me company. You might listen to music, talk
radio or books on tape while you work — but a woodshop is a harsh
place for standard radios or stereo systems.
W
afting sawdust
can ruin a good
stereo system;
accidentally spearing a
speaker with a wayward
plank will kill the music.
Fortunately, jobsite radios
are designed to handle the
rigors of everyday use in a
dusty environment and with-
stand their share of bangs
and bumps. They’ll run on
AC or on the same battery
packs used in cordless power
tools, so they’ll work out-
doors at a remote worksite
or a deck or patio lacking
electricity. What’s more, job-
site radios aren’t just radios:
They can play music from a
smartphone or MP3 player,
and some can even connect
wirelessly via Bluetooth.
I was anxious to review
the features and test the
performance of the latest
crop of jobsite radios. Being
a part-time musician and
recording engineer, I was
especially anxious to hear
how they sounded! I tested
13 models made by seven
different tool companies:
the Bosch PB360S, PB180 &
PB120, DeWALT DCR012 &
DCR015, Makita LXRM03B,
Milwaukee 2792-20, 2790-20
& 2590-20, PORTER-CABLE
PCC771B, RIDGID R84083
& R84084, and the RYOBI
P742. The DeWALT DCR018
didn’t arrive in time for my
review, but I’ve included its
48
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video that includes a sound test
comparison of the radios in this article, please
visit woodworkersjournal.com and click on
“More on the Web” under the Magazine tab. The universal battery recipient award goes to Milwaukee’s large model
2790-20, which can run on practically any battery the company makes.
specifications and features cord than have to lug an

along with the other radios in adapter along.
the chart on page 54. To help Something that distin-
dispel a common misconcep- guishes a jobsite radio
tion that all jobsite radios can from a standard radio is its
recharge the battery packs sturdy construction. These
they run on, I’ve divided the units feature protective
models into three groups: reinforcements that range
radio/chargers (large radios from simple corner guards to
that can also serve as battery armor-like enclosures to full
pack chargers); large radios exoskeleton-like “roll cage”
(units roughly the size of bars. All offer protection
Along with the Bosch, the two DeWALT radio/chargers feature AC outlets
boom boxes); and compact should the radio be dropped, on their sides, great for plugging in a worklight or small tool.
radios (the smaller, lighter slam around in the back of
models). a pickup truck, or even fall Bosch and Milwaukee radio/
off a scaffolding or rooftop. chargers — the two heaviest
Shared Features While I didn’t actually hurl in this group — require some
With the exception of the any of these radios from the muscle to pick up and carry,
compact RIDGID and top of my two-story roof, I especially compared to the
RYOBI radios, which are bat- did toss them around a good smallest compact units.
tery-powered only, all jobsite deal, and none stopped work- To aid portability, all
radios run on either 120v AC ing (to paraphrase a classic jobsite radios have carrying
or battery pack power. Some Timex® watch ad: “they took handles, although these
radios accept only one type a lickin’ and kept on tickin’ ”). are better realized on some
of battery pack: for example, On the downside, heavy-duty models than others. I liked
the Milwaukee radio/charger construction adds bulk and the models with top-mounted The Bosch PB120 features a handy
rear compartment for storage of its
only runs on (but also weight, especially to larger handles the best, as these
power adapter or a small
recharges) 18-volt M18 lithi- models. At more than 24 and made the radios easy to grab electronic device.
um-ion packs. Others may be 17 pounds respectively, the and carry. I wasn’t fond of
powered by more than one
type (NiCd, lithium-ion, etc.) Bosch PB360S
and/or voltage of pack.
Type: Radio/Charger
When AC power is handy,
most radios plug directly into
Pros: Extensive connectivity. Good tuner & sound. Only
a standard household outlet radio with a subwoofer. 1- 12-volt & 4- AC power outlets
and have a cord wrap on the Cons: Very heavy and bulky. No dedicated tuner preset
back or bottom. The majority buttons.
of compacts, as well as the Performance
Makita, require a plug-in AC
Tuner: 9.5/10
adapter, which is included
with each. I’m not a big fan
Loudness: 6.8/10
of these “wall warts” because Sound quality rank: #1
it’s easier to plug in a power

Shop Test continued
DeWALT DCR012
Type: Radio/Charger
Pros: Lightest radio/charger. Familiar
dials for adjusting tuning & volume.
Cons: Boomy sound. No separate
bass/treble adjustment.
Performance
Tuner: 7.2/10
Loudness: 7/10 The Milwaukee radio/charger has the largest
Sound quality rank: #3 display panel, which is easy to see even from
the other side of the shop.
the side-mounted handles on ing buttons. The DeWALT as setting the clock, radio
some of the smaller radios, radio/charger and RIDGID presets, EQ, must be done by
as I often fumbled around compact have a separate pressing buttons and scroll-
trying to figure out where dial just for radio tuning. ing through computer-like
to grab these to pick them Uniquely, the Milwaukee ra- menus, a process that’s often
up. The Milwaukee radio/ dio/charger’s volume ramps confusing and frustrating.
charger and large model up gradually after the unit is All radios feature a backlit
sport an additional feature switched on, kind of like soft LCD panel that displays the
that’s really handy: a built-in start on a router. I liked this tuning frequency, volume,
bottle opener, perfect when feature, as I didn’t get blasted sound source, and the time,
Weighing in at more than 24 it’s time for a cold drink at when the radio was last left at — most radios display the
pounds, the Bosch radio/charger is the end of a long, hot day. an earsplitting volume. time even with the power
the heaviest in the group. Typically, jobsite mod- switched off. Some models
Buttons, Dials, Displays els have separate buttons display other information,
All radio audio and other for power On/Off, mode such as how much juice is
features are controlled by, selection (FM, AM, auxiliary left in the battery pack and,
depending on the model, input, etc.), radio tuning and on some radio/chargers, the
various types of buttons and clock display. The majority of pack’s recharging status.
dials. Roughly half the radios these buttons are rubberized The Makita LXRM03B not
use a rotating dial for adjust- and comfy to push and larger only shows you the time and
ing volume, while the other buttons, as found on the Mil- date, but it also has a built-in
half employ a pair of up and waukee radio/charger, are alarm clock, complete with a
down volume buttons. I liked usable even with work gloves “snooze” setting, I suppose in
The Makita’s single dial controls
both volume and tuning: you push it being able to change volume on. I found the small mem- case you want to take a siesta
to switch between functions. or tuning with the quick spin brane-style buttons used on in your shop. It also displays
of a dial, rather than having the compact RYOBI hard on Radio Data System (RDS)
to toggle the volume up or bare fingertips. Some radios information which, depend-
down by repeatedly press- have buttons dedicated to ing on if the station transmits
specific features — EQ, Blu- it, shows you the station’s
Milwaukee M18 2792-20 etooth, presets, etc., which I call letters (KPIG, WKRP,
Type: Radio/Charger preferred to units with but- etc.) and sometimes even the
Pros: Loudest unit with a very tons that perform multiple name of the artist and song
functions. The Milwaukee currently playing!
pleasant, warm sound. Easy to use.
compact and large models, as
Cons: Most expensive unit. Lacks
well as both compact Bosch Radio Tuners
dedicated tuner preset buttons. radios, feature a dedicated Pulling in AM and FM
Performance “mute” button, which lets you stations is a jobsite radio’s
Tuner: 7.9/10 turn the sound off in a hurry, primary duty, so good
Loudness: 10/10 say when you need to answer reception is a must. A radio’s
a ringing telephone. On most station-grabbing power can
Sound quality rank: #2
models, adjustments such make the difference between

Makita LXRM03B Milwaukee 2790-20
Type: Large radio Type: Large radio
Pros: Most compact full-sized radio. Pros: Runs on a large
Advanced features. Easiest to carry. variety of battery packs
Cons: Side-mounted speakers produce Cons: Bulky size.
an indirect, diffuse sound. Awkward to carry.
Performance Performance
Tuner: 9/10 Tuner: 9/10
Loudness: 5.4/10 Loudness: 6.8/10
Sound quality rank: #6 Sound quality rank: #5
listening to your favorite (the Bosch P180) a score of All but one of the radios
programming or settling for 10, and scored the other ra- — the compact RIDGID
some megawatt station that dios proportionally (see the — feature tuning presets
blasts a commercial every 30 individual model info boxes). that allow you to set and
seconds. I tested the recep- The large RIDGID and choose your favorite FM or
tion of each radio by seeing Makita allow you to switch AM station with the push
how many stations it could the radio’s normal stereo of a button. The number of
tune in strongly and clearly, reception to mono, a feature presets varies from model
without excessive chatter or that helps weaker stations to model, but only about a
distortion. I gave the one that sound better by reducing
pulled in the most stations annoying intermittent static. Continues on page 52 ...
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Shop Test continued
RIDGID R84083
Type: Large radio
Pros: Extensively armored body.
Cons: Bulky proportions.
Performance
Tuner: 9.3/10
The Bosch radio/charger offers a novel (and
Loudness: 6.6/10 clever) means of playing music directly from small
Sound quality rank: #4 SD memory cards (the kind used in most point-and-
shoot digital cameras) or USB flash drives.
third have dedicated preset in turn, one after the other, play MP3 audio files while
buttons. The other radios pausing for a few seconds. To leaving valuable electronic
require you to scroll through retain the last station found, devices at home.
your presets by continually press the scan button again.
pressing a button(s), which Both features are useful Device Compartments
can be a bit tedious, espe- for finding available radio To house and protect aux-
cially if the model has 10 or stations, especially if you’re iliary devices, most jobsite
Only about a third of the radios
have dedicated preset buttons
more presets. To retain your unfamiliar with the area; say, radios have built-in sealable
(remember the push buttons on presets, time settings, etc. you’re at a new worksite far compartments (the RIDGID
your parents ‘50s or ‘60s sedan?), when the radio’s power is dis- from home. In practice, nei- and RYOBI compacts have
great for quick station changes. connected, all units employ ther of these features works a place on the back for se-
replaceable backup batteries, perfectly on any jobsite radio: curing a device with a small
typically AAs or AAAs. seek and/or scan sometimes strap). Most compartments’
bypassed strong stations doors have rubber gaskets
Seek vs Scan while stopping on other sta- to keep out dust, and latches
Designed to help you find tions with weak signals. that are easy to open — a
radio stations more easily, good thing because of the
tuner seek and scan func- Auxiliary Inputs need to access the device
tions are often misunder- In addition to tuning in your to start/stop the music.
stood. All the radios, save favorite radio shows, all Although the Milwaukee
the Makita, have a seek jobsite radios can play audio 2790-20’s top-mounted
feature: Press a tuning up or from an auxiliary device, compartment/battery bay
down button and the radio such as an MP3 player, is conveniently located, its
automatically sets itself to the smartphone, tablet, CD two rotating latches are
next available station. Only player, etc. via a short cord hard to turn and tedious
A top-mounted dock on the Makita
a handful of radios have a plugged into a 1/8" (3.5mm) to operate. The majority of
allows you to plug in and play or
charge an iPod or iPhone directly, scan function: Once the scan mini stereo jack that’s compartments also have a
and to control basic play functions button is pressed, the radio standard on most portable built-in USB port; however,
via buttons on the front of the radio. stops at each available station electronics. The Makita some units (see chart) only
offers even handier connec- provide USB power when
tivity through a top-mounted the radio is plugged into an
Bosch PB120 dock (unfortunately, the electrical outlet, a real draw-
Type: Compact Radio connector doesn’t fit all back if you need to recharge
Pros: Great tuner. On-board models). The Bosch radio/ your phone/device at a
charger has sockets for SD jobsite lacking AC power.
storage for wall power adapte.r
memory cards or thumb
Cons: Battery pack difficult drives inside a closeable Bluetooth Connectivity
to remove. digital media bay. Buttons on One of the coolest features
Performance the front of the radio allow found on a few jobsite radios
Tuner: 9.6/10 you to pause/play the music, is Bluetooth connectivity.
Loudness: 4.7/10 advance between songs, Bluetooth is basically a
and even randomize song radio-frequency signal that’s
order. This is a great way to transmitted by most modern

Bosch PB180
Type: Compact Radio
Pros: Excellent FM reception.
Cons: Only runs on one type
of battery pack.
Performance
Tuner: 10/10
Loudness: 5/10
The majority of the device com-

partments on jobsite radios have
a device that’s safely located Passing through doors and
a built-in USB port, which can be
used to power or recharge a smart- inside your car or home. walls had varying effects on
phone, tablet or MP3 player. With my iPad in hand, I the signal, but whenever the
tested the Bluetooth-capable connection was lost, each
smartphones and tablets. Milwaukee radio/charger, radio automatically recon-
Unlike FM or AM radio and RYOBI and PORTER- nected when the device was
transmissions, Bluetooth CABLE compacts. All three relocated. Buttons on all
signals have a range limited quickly connected to the three units offer some con-
to about a hundred feet at iPad without a hitch and trol over the remote device,
best. That’s usually more performed well, reproducing either allowing pausing/play- The author used his iPad to test the
Bluetooth performance of the three
than adequate for playing clear and glitch-free audio ing and/or advancing songs.
models with this feature.
music (or audiobooks, or even when the iPad was 50
podcasts) in your shop from feet away in another room. Continues on page 54 ...
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Shop Test continued
Type Brand & Street AC power/ Batteries Speaker AM/FM Equalization Auxiliary Auxiliary Built-in Size/ weight U.S.
model price* battery charged number & presets/ inputs device power (with battery ^) warranty
power size seek/scan storage outlets
Radio/ Bosch $188 Cord/ 14.4v 14.4v to 18v 4 x 2"; 20 FM, 10 5 EQ presets Mini jack, Side com- 4 AC; 14 x 13.5 x 14.5 1 year
Charger PB360S to 18v Li-ion Li-ion 1 x 4½" AM/Yes/No incl. custom USB Flash partment 1 12-volt ^^ inches/ 24 lbs.
(subwoofer) bass & drive, SD 1 USB 5 oz.
treble card
Radio/ DeWALT $179 Cord/ 12v/20v 2 x 3½"; 10 FM, 5 Bass & Mini jack Side com- 2 AC 16.6 x 10.6 x 3 years
Charger DCR015 12v/20v MAX Li-ion 2 x 1" AM/Yes/No treble partment 1 USB*** 13.4 inches/ 13
MAX Li-ion (tweeters) lbs. 8 oz.
Radio/ DeWALT $170 Cord/ 7.2-18v 2 x 3½" 10 FM, 5 Bass boost Mini jack No 3 AC 12.3 x 10.4 x 3 years
Charger DCR012 12v-18v NiCd, NiMH, AM/Yes/No 20.8 inches/ 15
NiCd, NiMh, Li-ion lbs. 14 oz.
Li-ion
Radio/ Milwaukee $230 Cord/ M18 M18 Li-ion 2 x 3½"; 10 FM, 10 Bass & Mini jack, Top com- 1 USB 15 x 12 x 12 1 year
Charger M18 2792-20 Li-ion 2 x 1" AM/Yes/No treble Bluetooth partment inches/ 17 lbs.
(tweeters) 8 oz.
Large Radio Makita $137 Wall adap- N/A 2 x 3" 5 FM, 5 AM/ Loudness 2 mini jacks, Top- No 13 x 9 x 15 3 years
LXRM03B ter/ 7.2-18v No/Yes setting iPod/iPhone mounted inches/ 10 lbs.
NiCd; 18v dock** iPod/iPhone 4.5 oz.
Li-ion dock
Large Radio Milwaukee $129 Cord/ N/A 2 x 31⁄2" 10 FM, 10 Bass & Mini jack Top com- 1 USB*** 21.2 x 11.6 x 1 year
2790-20 12v-18v AM/Yes/ treble partment 10.4 inches/ 14
NiCd; V18 & Yes lbs. 8 oz.
V24 Li-ion;
M12 & M18
Li-ion
Large Radio RIDGID $120 Cord/ 18v N/A 2 x 31⁄2" 10 FM, 5 Bass & Mini jack Side com- 1 USB 20.8 x 10.2 x 3 years
R84083 Li-ion AM/Yes/ treble partment 11.6 inches/ 13
Yes lbs. 14 oz.
Compact Bosch PB120 $88 Wall N/A 2 x 2" 5 FM, 5 AM/ Bass & Mini jack Back com- No 12.1 x 2.8 x 7.5 1 year
Radio adapter/ 12v Yes/No treble partment for inches/ 3 lbs
Li-ion AC adapter 4.2 oz.
storage
Compact Bosch PB180 $89 Wall N/A 2 x 2" 5 FM, 5 AM/ Bass & Mini jack No No 13 x 6.5 x 4.8 1 year
Radio adapter/ 18v Yes/No treble inches/ 4 lbs.
Li-ion 3.6 oz.
Compact DeWALT $80 Cord/ 18v N/A 1 x 31⁄2" 10 FM, 5 No Mini jack Side com- 1 USB*** 10.1 x 10 x 7.3 3 years
Radio DCR018 NiCd;12v or AM/Yes/No partment inches/ 7 lbs.
20v Li-ion 14 oz.
Compact Milwaukee $100 Wall adap- N/A 2 x 2" 10 FM, 10 Bass & Mini jack Front com- No 11.5 x 11.5 x 4.5 1 year
Radio M12 2590-20 ter/ M12 AM/Yes/ treble partment inches/ 3 lbs.
Li-ion Yes 15.5 oz.
Compact PORTER- $100 Wall N/A 2 x 2" 6 FM, 6 AM/ Bass & Mini jack, No No 12.4 x 6 x 5.6 3 years
Radio CABLE adapter/ 20v Yes/No treble Bluetooth inches/ 3 lbs.
PCC771B Li-ion 15.6 oz.
Compact RIDGID $38 No/ 18v N/A 1 x 31⁄2" None/Yes/ No Mini jack Back area No 8.3 x 5.8 x 5.7 3 years
Radio R84084 NiCd or 18v No with a strap inches/ 2 lbs.
Li-ion 10.6 oz.
Compact RYOBI P742 $30 No/ 18v N/A 1 x 31⁄2" 10 FM, 10 No Mini jack, Back area 1 USB 9 x 5.3 x 3.7 3 years
Radio ONE+ Li-ion AM/Yes/No Bluetooth with a strap inches/ 2 lbs.
5.4 oz.
Selling price of radio without battery pack on Amazon.com at the time the article was written.
^Weight of units that accept packs of different voltages and capacities will vary.
**The dock doesn’t fit all iPod models.
^^Socket for 12v car-lighter-style plug-in accessories
***USB power only provided when radio is plugged into AC outlet.
Equalization has a “loudness” setting,

To better suit different which boosts both bass and
styles of music and the sonic treble. The Bosch radio/
DeWALT DCR018 preferences of the listener, charger features five equal-
Type: Compact Radio the majority of jobsite radios ization presets: jazz, rock,
Pros: Only compact with a offer adjustable equaliza- pop, classical and a custom-
regular cord for AC power. tion (a.k.a. “ EQ”), allowing izable setting. I really liked
you to boost or cut treble this feature, as it allowed me
Cons: Largest & heaviest
and bass frequencies. In to change the radio’s tonal
compact. Muffled sound quality. lieu of these adjustments, quality to suit different kinds
Performance the DeWALT DCR012 and of music without having to
Tuner rating: 7.6/10 DCR018 have a dedicated fiddle with individual bass
Loudness rating: 4.3/10 bass boost button, which and treble settings.
Sound quality rank: #10 adds more low-end punch to
the sound, and the Makita Continues on page 56 ...

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Shop Test continued
PORTER-CABLE PCC771B
Type: Compact Radio
Pros: Big, pleasant sound for a
small radio. Built-in Bluetooth
Cons: Pricey for a compact unit.
Performance
Tuner: 8.6/10
Loudness: 6.5/10
siderable volume of sound, rating of 10 and scored the

a radio’s power amplifier other radios on a linear scale
must do so without driving relative to it. For example,
its speakers into distortion. the 92 Db RYOBI compact
Good radio sound should measured only half as loud as
also be as natural and true to the big Milwaukee, and thus
the source as possible. received a score of 5 (half
of 10). The scores (found in
Measuring Loudness the model info boxes) should
To get a good sense of just give you a reasonable notion
how loud these radios were, of how radio loudness com-
I played the same musical pares in the real world.
selection (a contemporary Just how loud does a job-
big-band jazz tune with a site radio need to be? In my
full-spectrum sound) on experience, even the units
an iPod connected to each with the least amplification
Most of the radios had enough
amplification to make music
How Do They Sound? radio. I turned the volume up were loud enough to hear
audible even when running power Here are the two main fac- until just before the speakers clearly even in a large shop,
tools with earmuffs on (however, tors to consider when eval- distorted and measured the and the most powerful radios
to avoid blasting noise, the author uating the audio produced sound pressure level, in deci- were plenty loud enough to
recommends hearing protectors by a jobsite radio: loudness bels (Db) with a sound meter blanket a big outdoor area.
with a built-in radio or Bluetooth
and sound quality. The first is set a few feet away. The
connectivity).
important because these ra- loudest radio, the Milwaukee Sound Quality
dios should be audible even radio/charger, measured 102 Even the loudest radio isn’t
in a noisy environment. In Db — roughly as loud as a a great choice if the sound
addition to producing a con- roaring chainsaw! At 86 Db, it produces isn’t pleasant to
the Milwaukee compact was listen to. Obviously, sound
the least loud. Unfortunately, quality is a highly subjective
decibel measurements don’t issue, depending not only
provide a clear means of on personal preferences, but
Milwaukee M12 2590-20 comparing the volume of on the kind of programming
Type: Compact Radio different radios because the you’re listening to. To rate
Pros: Convenient front-mounted Db scale isn’t linear: the sound of these 13 radios,
To the human ear, I played a variety of music
auxiliary device compartment.
music playing at on each one. Relying on my
Cons: Least loud unit. Expensive 90 Db actually experience recording and
for a compact unit. sounds only half as mixing records, I awarded
Performance loud as when it’s the highest points to models
Tuner: 6.2/10 played at 100 Db. that sounded the most clear
Loudness: 3.7/10 Therefore, I gave and transparent, with deep
the top-Db-produc-
Sound quality rank: #7 Continues on page 58 ...
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Shop Test continued
RIDGID R84084
Type: Compact Radio
Pros: Very easy to operate. Built-in
cord for auxiliary devices.
Cons: No tuner presets or EQ. Runs
on battery power only.
In general, the large radios to buy a radio that uses the
Performance and radio/chargers sounded same charger and packs you
Tuner: 9.3/10 better than compact models. already own.
Loudness: 5/10 This is due to the fact that But what if you own several
Sound quality rank: #13 physically larger units with different brands/voltages of
bigger (and/or specialized) cordless tools, or are willing
speakers are simply more ca- to invest in a new brand/bat-
pable of reproducing fuller and tery type? If tool brand and
richer bass and low-mid fre- battery were not a factor, my
quencies. The top-rated Bosch first choice in jobsite radios
radio/charger produced very would be the Bosch PB360S.
strong bass, thanks to its I think it’s the best-sounding
bottom-mounted 41⁄ 2" “sub- jobsite model, plus it’s got
woofer” speaker designed lots of connectivity (save Blu-
specifically for reproducing etooth) and more useful fea-
low frequencies prevalent tures than any other model.
in bass-heavy music genres All that, and it recharges
like reggae and hip-hop. The Bosch’s 18-volt lithium-ion
next highest rated radio, the battery packs, too. Yes, it’s
Milwaukee 2792-20 (as well heavy, but I like to think that
as the DeWALT DCR015), each time I lift it, I get a little
produced good bass through upper-body workout.
two regular 31⁄2" speakers If you don’t need a super
and clear highs through loud radio and size and
a pair of small “tweeters.” weight (and price) are
In general, larger units with bigger and satisfying bass and crisp The three top-sounding important considerations,
speakers are capable of producing
and natural high-frequency compacts — the Milwaukee I’d suggest choosing one
better bass, while those with
“tweeters” (small speakers sounds (horns, cymbals, 2590-20, Bosch PB180 and of the three top-performing
designed specifically for reproduc- etc.). I ranked all the models PORTER-CABLE PCC771B, compact models by Mil-
ing higher frequencies) produced in order from the #1 best- all produced surprisingly rich waukee, Bosch (the PB180)
clearer highs. sounding Bosch PB360S sounds despite their small and PORTER-CABLE. All
down to the #13 last-place speakers and space-saving three pack a lot of sound
RIDGID R84084 (see the sizes. and features into a light,
model info boxes). portable package and sell for
Conclusions around half of what the big
Usually at this point of a tool models cost. Whichever type
RYOBI P742 review article, I sum up the or model you choose, it’s a
Type: Compact Radio various pros and cons of each good idea to sample a partic-
model tested and identify my ular model’s audio qualities
Pros: Light & compact. Least
favorites. But in this case, before you buy it (you can
expensive unit with Bluetooth there’s a significant factor hear high quality recordings
Cons: Poor tuner performance. in play: None of the jobsite of all the radios in my More
Hard membrane-type buttons. radios in this review come on the Web video).
Runs on battery power only. with a battery pack, nor do
Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a furni-
Performance any, save the radio/charger ture designer/craftsman, writer/
models, come with chargers. photographer and contributing
Tuner: 5.5/10
So unless you’re willing to editor to Woodworker’s Journal.
Loudness: 5/10 invest in these expensive ex- His books are available at
Sound quality rank: #12 tras, it’s much more practical amazon.com

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SU UP
CO
R !
PE ON
27 LED PORTABLE
WORKLIGHT/FLASHLIGHT
LOT NO. 67227
SUPER COUPON How Does Harbor Freight
Sell GREAT QUALITY Tools WOW SUPER
COUPON
20%
69567/60566/62532
at the LOWEST Prices? 3 GALLON, 100 PSI
We have invested millions OILLESS PANCAKE
AIR COMPRESSOR
Item SAVE of dollars in our own
67227
shown 62% state-of-the-art quality test LOT NO. 95275
60637/61615
2
$ 99 PRICE
REG. labs and millions more in
OFF
Requires three
AAA batteries (included). $7.99 our factories, so our tools SAVE
will go toe-to-toe with the 55%
LIMIT 6 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling
800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior ANY
top professional brands. Item
purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. 95275
Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be
presented. Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
SINGLE
ITEM And we can sell them for a shown
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R !
$ 3999
LIMIT 1 - Save 20% on any one item purchased at our stores or
PE ON HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. *Cannot be used with
we cut out the middle man
SU UP
other discount, coupon, gift cards, Inside Track Club membership,
extended service plans or on any of the following: compressors,
CO
generators, tool storage or carts, welders, floor jacks, Towable Ride-On
10", 12 SPEED Trencher, Saw Mill (Item 61712/62366/67138), Predator Gas Power
Items, open box items, in-store event or parking lot sale items. Not
and pass the savings on to REG. PRICE $89.99
BENCH MOUNT valid on prior purchases after 30 days from original purchase date with
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DRILL PRESS Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
Come visit one of our
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LOT NO. 60237
SAVE
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44836/62408 550 Stores Nationwide. Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be
$100
WOW WOW
Item 60237
shown
R ! 18 GAUGE BRAD NAILER
PE ON
$ 99 99$199PRICE
REG.
.99
SUPER SUPER SU UP
COUPON COUPON CO WE CARRY A
FULL LINE OF LOT NO. 68021/62255
44", 13 DRAWER 2.5 HP, 10" TILE/BRICK SAW FASTENERS
$ 1399
SAVE
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INDUSTRIAL QUALITY
88
SAVE
ROLLER CABINET
$340 SAVE
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R !
OVER 69275/62391 60% Item 68021
PE ON
9" x 72", 2 PIECE STEEL $191 Item 69275 shown shown
SU UP LOADING RAMPS
CO LOT NO.
44649
69591/69646
SAVE • Weighs
$55 245 lbs.
Item 68784
shown
• 1000 lb. Capacity Item 44649
shown $ 44
99
REG. PRICE $99.99
LOT NO.
68784/62591
69387/62270
$ 35999 REG.
PRICE
$699.99
LIMIT 4 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800- LIMIT 3 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-
423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior LIMIT 6 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling
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800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt.
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Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be presented. Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
R ! 1500 WATT DUAL R ! R ! R !

PE ON PE ON PE ON
32 PIECE PE ON
SU UP TEMPERATURE HEAT GUN SU UP SU UP SCREWDRIVER SET SU UP
CO (572°/1112°) CO CO CO
LOT NO. 61259/90764
LOT NO. 96289
62340/62546 29 PIECE TITANIUM MULTIFUNCTION
Item 96289 NITRIDE COATED SAVE POWER TOOL SAVE
HIGH SPEED STEEL 70%
shown 8 Functions: Sanding,
DRILL BIT SET

Item 90764
shown 60% Remove Grout, Cut Metal, Cut
Flooring, Cut Plastic, Plunge Cut,
SAVE $ 998 LOT NO.

SAVE
$1499
Scrape Concrete, Scrape Flooring
70% REG. PRICE

$29.99
5889
61637
62281 9
$ 99$24PRICE
REG.
.99
Item
61637
shown 60% 5
$ 99$14PRICE
REG.
.99
LOT NO. Item
68861/60428 68861
62279/62302 shown
LIMIT 7 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling LIMIT 9 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling LIMIT 8 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling LIMIT 7 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling
800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior
purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt.
Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be
presented. Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. presented. Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. presented. Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day. presented. Valid through 8/27/15. Limit one coupon per customer per day.
R ! R ! R ! R !
PE ON SAVE 4000 PEAK/
Item 94538
shown PE ON PE ON 500 LB. CAPACITY PE ON
SU UP $30 SU UP AUTOMATIC SU UP ALUMINUM CARGO CARRIER SU UP 3200 RUNNING WATTS
CO CO BATTERY FLOAT CO LOT NO. 92655 CO SAVE • 70 dB 6.5 HP (212 CC)
CHARGER
LOT NO. 42292
69688/60771 $200 Noise
Level GAS GENERATORS
LOT NO. 69676/69729/68528
EIGHT DRAWER 69594/69955 LOT NO. 69675/69728
WOOD TOOL SAVE SAVE CALIFORNIA ONLY
$70
Item
CHEST SUPER Item
LOT NO. 94538/62585 70% 42292
shown QUIET 69676
shown
$ 6999
REG. PRICE $99.99
$ 995
REG. PRICE $19.99 Item 92655 shown
$ 7999 REG.
PRICE
$149.99
$ 29999
REG. PRICE $499.99
LIMIT 4 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling LIMIT 6 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling LIMIT 5 - Good at our stores or HarborFreight.com or by calling
800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior
purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt.
Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be Offer good while supplies last. Non-transferable. Original coupon must be
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BACK PRICES NOW 550 Stores
Nationwide
WOW
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Customer Rating SUPER COUPON PE ON
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CO
FREE
COUPON PRESSURE
WASHER
12" SLIDING COMPOUND
DOUBLE-BEVEL MITER SAW SAVE LOT NO. 69488
$50 • 1.3 GPM
WITH LASER GUIDE WITH ANY PURCHASE
LOT NO. 69684/61776/61969/61970 Item
7999
69684
shown
1" x 25 FT. $ REG.
PRICE
$129.99
TAPE MEASURE
ITEM 69080
AWARD 69030/69031
Item
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SAVE
69080 800-423-2567. Cannot be used with other discount or coupon or prior
shown
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$ 996 R ! RETRACTABLE
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PE ON
VALUE SU UP AIR HOSE REEL WITH
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Coupon good at our stores, HarborFreight.com or by calling 800-423-2567. LOT NO. 93897/69265/62344
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$90
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$ 5999
CO
R !
PE ON
SU UP
1/4" TRIM ROUTER
WOW SUPER
COUPON
RAPID PUMP® 1.5 TON
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17 FT. TYPE 1A
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SAVE 44914/61626
Item 44914
• 3-1/2 Pumps
LOT NO. 67646/62514
• 300 lb. Capacity
42%
shown • 23 Configurations
Lifts Most
SAVE R ! POWDER-FREE
• Cutting depth adjusts
Vehicles
• Weighs $60 SAVE
OVER
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SU UP
SAVE NITRILE
45% GLOVES
CO
easily for accurate cuts Item
• Standard 1/4 in. collet 27 lbs.
$81 67646 PACK OF 100
accepts most router bits shown
$118
• Comes with trimmer MEDIUM
guide and straight guide • 5 mil. Item LOT NO.
assemblies thickness 68498
• Transparent base for shown 68496/61363
clear line-of-sight YOUR CHOICE! LARGE
$ 1999 $ 5999 Item 68053
LOT NO.
68053/62516
69252/60569
62160/62496
$ 496
REG. PRICE
LOT NO.
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X-LARGE
LOT NO.
REG. PRICE $34.99 REG. PRICE $119.99 shown $11.99 68498/61359
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R ! R ! R ! R ! 12" RATCHET
PE ON MOVER'S DOLLY PE ON PE ON
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SU UP SU UP SU UP 4 FT. x 8 FT. SU UP BAR CLAMP/SPREADER
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LOT NO.
6" DISC SANDER SAVE UTILITY TRAILER
$140
93888/60497
61899/62399 LOT NO. LOT NO.
• 1000 lb. SAVE 97181/62502 90154/62170
$80
Capacity • DOT certified LOT NO. 62123
Item 97181 46807/68975
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shown
69221/69222
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Item 90154
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66%
Item 69222
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1
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purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt. purchases after 30 days from original purchase with original receipt.
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R ! 12,000 LB. ELECTRIC WINCH R ! R ! 350 LB. CAPACITY
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60813/61889
Item 95659 LOT NO. 95659
SAVE 46762/60710
LOT NO. 69446 CO
SAVE
shown
$300
61634/61952
37%
Item 68142
shown
• 580 lb. Capacity Item 69446 $160
SAVE $
shown
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99
$180 REG. PRICE $279.99 99 $ 99$15PRICE
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Small Shop Journal
Bar Stool
By Kimberly McNeelan
Sturdy dovetails and long,

flowing curves give this
counter height ash bar
stool an organic appeal,
while highlighting your
hand tool skills.

Shop-made Curve Bow
Having a curve bow makes layouts for projects like this much easier
when you are working by yourself. All you need is a long, thin strip
of wood about 1/8" thick, 3/4" wide and about 48" long. You can
create bows of other lengths to suit different sizes of projects. Use a
hardwood with fairly straight grain, like oak (or even ash!).
I recommend ripping the strip from a wider board to create a 1/8"
offcut. Then sand the sides of the strip smooth. Drill a 1/8" hole 1"
from each end and centered on the strip’s width. Drill two more holes
centered on the stick’s length but separated about 2½". Simply tie two
strings using a noose knot looped through itself and a trucker’s knot
through the hole in the middle closest to that end. Whatever keeps
the strings attached here amounts to a successful knot. Make the center, they bow the strip. For tapered curves, you can either adjust
strings the same length for a consistent curve. You want the strings how much you pull on one of the strings or use a strip of wood with
to be just long enough so that when you squeeze them together at the tapered thickness.
T
here are a lot of bar stool de- as beautiful as possible. Grain-matching Preparing the Stock
signs out there. When I decided is one of the things that you can do to I milled the four book-matched pieces
to make one for me, it took a make your handmade furniture truly down to just under 3/4", and then glued
while to come up with a design that special. So, I ordered a 9' x 7" piece up the sides. The two pieces from the
would be an interesting form as well of 8/4 ash for making this bar stool. center of the board for the seat needed
as a functional seat. I think the lines of The side pieces of the stool are book- to be planed to 1¾" thick and milled
this design, formed by careful shaping matched and the seat comes from the square. Next, I ripped a piece 1¾" wide
and the unique use of dovetails, make center of my board. When assembled, from either side of the seat pieces and
it a beautiful project as well as very the grain all lines up quite nicely. one that would later be the footrest.
enjoyable to build. I wouldn’t say it is an
easy project, but the following direc-
tions should lead you fairly seamlessly
to completion.
Ash: A Great Species Choice

My wood of choice for many projects
these days has changed from my usual
walnut to ash. Structurally and aestheti-
cally, ash is a truly wonderful hardwood.
It is mostly blond with grain similar to
oak, but ash has buttery tones along
with gray at times. According to the Jan-
ka rating scale of hardness, green ash
ranks to be a harder species than black
walnut! Sadly, the blight being spread by
that monstrous little beast known as the
emerald ash borer has made ash lumber
readily available and incredibly cheap.
It’s about half the price of walnut these
days, so affordable but gorgeous, too.
When you have the tools to do it, re-
sawing to produce book- or slip-matched
grain really shows that you pay attention The author used a shop-made curve bow to create long, flowing curves on the edges of the stool’s
to all the details that make your project side pieces (left) and to form the seat’s top contour (right). It’s a simple and adjustable layout tool.

Small Shop Journal continued
Shaping the seat’s top contours is best handled “resaw” fashion at the band Cut the ends of the seat boards to length at the table saw. Back the cuts
saw. Cut carefully just to the waste side of your layout lines. up either with a miter gauge and scrap fence or using a crosscut sled.
Next, I laid out the curve for the seat at the table saw, I used my crosscut sled flats between them. Then I went back
contours and cut those on the band to cut the side pieces to final length. and cleaned up the pins with chisels.
saw. Make sure the saw’s table is set up Next, I used my marking knife to
square to the blade and that you leave Cutting Dovetails trace around the pins onto the bottom of
your pencil line (cutting on the waste Now the fun really begins with hand the seat. After making the initial marks,
side) for easier and accurate cleanup of tools! Before I cut the profile shape for you can go back and align your bevel
those curves later. the sides of the bar stool, I went ahead gauge to scribe deeper. I use my bevel
After cutting the curves, I checked and cut the dovetails that join the seat gauge because it’s easier to hold than
the glue joint between the seat halves to and sides. I started with the pins. Here, the big side pieces. Transfer the lines
make sure the butt joint would disap- I used a 9.5° angle for their layout, be- around to the top of the seat, and use
pear. Run the edges over the jointer, if cause it looks great and creates a solid your bevel gauge again to finish the
necessary. Then glue up the seat. You’ll and very strong joint. These joints will layout. Cutting the tails is very similar to
find that cleaning the glue off with a receive plenty of stress, so I left the pins cutting the pins, but I used a band saw
scraper or an “abused” chisel right thick for added strength. to cut on the waste side of the lines this
when the squeeze-out starts to become Use your bevel gauge, square, mark- time. (For the tails, the cuts are square
rubbery will make that job a whole lot ing gauge and either a marking knife or to the saw table.) Go back again and
easier. Ash has a tendency to tear out an awl for laying out pins on the stool’s clean up with a chisel.
if you use a glue scraper on hardened side pieces. Do your best to scribe the Carefully check the fit of your tails
glue ... yes, I found that out firsthand! lines deeply. I usually use a very sharp and pins. If the fit is too tight, don’t force
After the glue dries, rip the seat to fi- pencil to highlight those lines. Next, I it; you could blow your piece apart. Re-
nal width, and form the seat into a slight reached for a Japanese handsaw to cut fine the joints so they go together easily.
trapezoid by putting a 4˚ taper on both on the waste side of the pins. While the seat and side pieces are
ends of the seat (see the Drawings). I From there, I clamped a board with a dry-fitted, mark the outside pin with the
used a miter gauge with an auxiliary straightedge facing the pins to give my angle you’ll need to band-saw the profile
fence to make an angled cut. While still chisel a 90° reference for chopping out cuts on the side pieces accurately.

1
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video on the process for
creating book-matched panels,
please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and 2
click on “More on the Web”
under the Magazine tab.
Dovetail Layout
(Top View of Side)
The ends of piece 3

are angled to match

the shape of the seat.

Exploded View
Each square = 1”
MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL
1 Seat (1) 13⁄4" x 107⁄8" x 171⁄4"
2 Sides (2) 11/16" x 151⁄4 " x 243⁄4"
3 Footrest* (1) 13⁄4" x 13⁄4" x 161⁄4"
*The Footrest length will need to be cut to fit.
The seat has a 4˚ taper on

both ends. The back of the
stool is slightly narrower
than the front.

Small Shop Journal continued
Saw the pins to

shape (left), then
chop the waste free
(top) using a backer
board to align the
chisel. It’s a good
idea to slightly
angle-in the flats
between your pins
to ensure a snug fit
Lay out the pins on one side piece, then transfer their angles and locations with the tails.
to the other side piece using a bevel gauge set to the correct angle. Line
the side pieces up carefully.
Adding the Footrest can clamp your workpiece to it, that’s a handmade curve bow (see sidebar,
This is also a good time to position and the most accurate way. If you need to page 63), drawing beautiful curves for
machine the joints for the footrest — use a hand drill instead, do your best to this step is easy! Do this for the edges
it’s easier to do this now while the side drill squarely into the footrest. and faces of your stool sides, seat and
pieces are still flat rather than after After boring the holes, cut the foot- footrest. Line up your curve bow with
cutting their curved edges. Because rest to fit precisely between the stool the intersection of the seat and side
of the slight angle of the side pieces, I sides by marking the angle, cutting, pieces and the bottom of the stool.
chose to use dowel joints to attach the and then checking its fit directly under Draw the curved lines. Remember, the
footrest. First, check the width directly the seat. Creep up on your layout lines. seat is not square, it is a trapezoid, so to
under the front edge of the seat, and Now, using metal dowel centers in make these cuts, I tilted the band saw
crosscut your footrest blank so it’s the footrest piece and following your table to match the edges of the sides
about 1/16" longer than that distance. layout on the side pieces, prick the to the angle of the seat. It’s easy to get
Cut your dowels to 15⁄8". stool sides so you can drill exactly at the that angle turned around, so mark your
Carefully draw the dowel layout on dowel centerpoints. Drill those holes stock and be careful.
the ends of the footrest, and mark the 3/8" deep. Feel free to play around with the
footrest’s position on the stool sides. cutout shape at the bottom of the stool.
Then drill two 3/8"-diameter holes 1½" Profiling the Stool Sides I like the look of the upside down curvy
deep into the footrest ends. If your drill It’s time to lay out and cut the profiles “V,” but you can be creative here. Cut
press table can turn vertically so you on the side pieces. With the help of these shapes out on the band saw, too.
Scribe your lines for the tails directly off of the pins. This time-honored Draw the tail shapes carefully onto the seat. Use a square to transfer
technique leaves less room for error. Use a marking knife or sharp pencil. layout lines around its thickness. Accuracy is critical to a good fit here.

A drill press with table set
vertically and your wood
clamped (left)www makes
easy work of boring holes
into the ends of the footrest
(top) for metal dowel cen-
ters (bottom).
Drill matching dowel

holes in the bar stool’s
sidepieces (right). Keep
the drill held squarely.
Save at least one of the profile waste sides and footrest. Make two notched involved. However, my most leisurely
pieces, and belt-sand it smooth. (You clamping cauls on the band saw for the time spent in the shop is usually in
may need more than one, depending dovetails and have two straight cauls these quieter moments. My mind has a
on how it fits the curve.) Cut the piece ready for the bottom of the side pieces. chance to wander, and I have the oppor-
shorter to use as a sanding block later.
It’s difficult to get a super-smooth curve Final Assembly and Finish
any other way. Start assembling the stool by gluing
Now it is time for hand-shaping the and clamping the footrest in place. Use
edges to make this project really come blocks in between the clamp and the
alive. Working back and forth to the wood so you don’t mar it. Then tackle the
center of the curves, my spokeshave dovetail glue-ups. Brush glue between
became a favorite tool all over again. the pins and tap the seat down into
The ash proved to be a bit difficult, but place. Then use your cauls and clamps
my curved sanding block took care of to bring it all together. Remember to
any really tricky places. scrape the glue off as soon as it gets
Before gluing up, go ahead and rubbery but not all the way hard.
finish-sand the inside faces of the seat, The next day, you can finish shaping
the seat of the stool and finish-sand the
outer surfaces, too. For topcoating, I
used Arm-R-Seal — a simple, durable
wipe-on finish. Three coats and voila ...
my hard work had paid off.
I like to apply wax and buff it off A coat of wax, buffed to a smooth sheen, brings
this project to completion.
immediately, just to even out the sheen
and make the surfaces of this bar stool tunity to slow down a bit. Maybe you’ll
feel wonderful. Let the finish dry at find the same peace in these exercises
least overnight before applying the when you build your bar stool.
wax, and let the wax dry before getting
Soften the bar stool’s hard edges as you like:
fingerprints all over it. Then take a seat! Kimberly McNeelan is a woodworker, artist
it presents a made-by-hand-tool appeal. The This bar stool required both patience and woodworking teacher. Her website is
author eased these edges with a spokeshave. and planning with all the hand tool work kimswoodfurniture.com.

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RYOBI TSS120L Sliding
Compound Miter Saw
Rockler Large Box Spline Jig
RYOBI’s TSS120L Slid- while keeping your hose out Box Spline Jig (item 55153)
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Rockler Router
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and a 360˚ rotation that can supporting and guiding a has a suggested retail price
provide compressed air over router as it cuts the splines. of $499.
an 80' radius in any direction, The edge guide on the Large

Woodworking Tools & Supplies Index
June 2015
For product information in the blink of an eye,
visit www.woodworkersjournal.com and click on
“Woodworker’s Marketplace” under the Tools
& Supplies tab.
ADVERTISER Page No. Web Address ADVERTISER Page No. Web Address
1-800-BunkBed 29 www.1800bunkbed.com/wj Grizzly Industrial, Inc. 69 www.grizzly.com
3M 11, 13 www.3M.com Harbor Freight Tools 60, 61 www.harborfreight.com
American Fabric Filter Co. 55 www.americanfabricfilter.com Hawk Woodworking Tools 53 hawkwoodworkingtools.com
American Steel Span 13 www.steelspan.com Howard Products, Inc. 17 www.howardproducts.com
Armor Crafts 55 www.armorplans.com Lansky Sharpeners 68 www.lansky.com
Armor Tool 55 www.armor-tool.com Leigh Industries, Ltd. 68 www.leighjigs.com
Badger Hardwoods of WI, Ltd. 73 www.badgerwood.com Lignomat 13 www.lignomat.com
Baileigh Industrial, Inc. 25 www.baileigh.com www.moistureproblems.info
Beall Tool Company 11 www.bealltool.com Magswitch Technology 59 www.magswitch.com.au
Big Ass Light 2 www.bigasslight.com/info McFeely’s Inc. 68 www.mcfeelys.com
CMT USA Inc. 73 www.cmtusa.com Mirka Abrasives, Inc. 79 www.mirkaderos.com
CNC Shark 3 shop.nextwaveautomation.com Nova Infinity 69 www.novainfinitychuck.com
The Craftsman Gallery 13, 69, 73 www.chipsfly.com Osborne Wood Products, Inc. 3, 17, 29 www.woodencomponents.com
Dimitrios Klitsas - Quick Screws 51 www.quickscrews.com
Fine Wood Sculptor 55 www.klitsas.com Ready2Rout and Ready2Lift 15 www.rockler.com/ready2
DR Power Equipment 75 www.burncage.com Rockler Woodworking
Easy Wood Tools 68 www.easywoodtools.com and Hardware 57, 69, 73 www.rockler.com
Epilog Laser 19, 73 www.epiloglaser.com/wwj RYOBI 9 www.ryobitools.com/ryobidays
Fisher Forge LLC 11 www.fisherforge.com SuperMax Tools 29 www.supermaxtools.com
Forrest Manufacturing Company 68 www.forrestblades.com Titebond 5 www.titebond.com
Freud 80 freudtools.com/premierfusion Triton Precision Power Tools 17 www.tritontools.com
Furniture Medic 3 furnituremedicfranchise.com Varathane 7 www.staining123.com
Gorilla Glue 25 www.gorillatough.com West Penn Hardwoods 73 westpennhardwoods.com
Grex Power Tools 11 www.grextools.com Woodworkers Source 55 www.101woods.com

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Finishing Thoughts
A Short History of
Guitar Finishes
By Michael Dresdner
Borrowing liberally from both furniture

and car coatings, guitar finishes run the
gamut from edible to high-tech.
F
irst there was the oud, Glair, a mixture of egg the honey (or gum arabic)
a Middle Eastern in- white, sugar, honey and acts as a plasticizer to pre-
strument named after sometimes gum arabic, was vent it from being too brittle.
the Arabic word for wood, the finish of choice for lute Applied very thin, glair offers
which led to the lute, and ulti- tops, and some makers today little protection from abra-
mately to the guitar. As these still use it. Made of items sion, but it will help shed dirt
plucked, fretted instruments found in most kitchens, it is and water and keep the top
evolved, so did the finishes clear, nontoxic, water-based, looking clean.
on them. Why? Let’s look and won’t penetrate too When the modern guitar
Michael Dresdner
back and find out. deeply. The egg white acts as emerged in the early 20th
is a nationally known finishing
The lute is a very light the binder or glue to form a century, it also wanted a
expert. He shares his expertise on
instrument, with a thin, lively film and adhere to the wood, very thin, somewhat brittle
the DVD The Way to Woodwork: top made of softwood, like the sugar acts as a hardening finish. French polish, which
Step-by-Step to a Perfect Finish, cedar or spruce. The best top resin to add durability, and is shellac applied by pad,
available through the store at woods are light, became the favored
woodworkersjournal.com. but stiff, a property finish for classical and
called stiffness-to- parlor guitars, and is
mass ratio. While still common on hand-
oil-based finishes made classicals today.
were fine for furni- Applied in ultra-thin
ture, they’re not for layers, it’s easy to keep
tops. The softwood a French polish finish
will absorb oil thin, yet it still offers
varnish, causing protection and a clear,
the top to become glossy sheen without
heavier but not stiff- harming the guitar’s
er, thus upsetting delicate sound.
the ideal stiffness- Many guitars made before 1920, and some classical By 1920, the Jazz
to-mass ratio. guitars to this day, are done in French polish. Age was in swing, and

photo courtesy of Doug Youland/Willie’s American Guitars
both nitrocellulose lacquer
and spray guns had been
invented, opening a range of
finishing options. Meanwhile,
guitars were getting bigger
in order to be louder and, for
the same reason, adopted
This koa wood Martin guitar sports Color added around the edges of a
metal strings. There were flat- sunburst finish intensifies the curve of
a nitrocellulose lacquer finish, like
top guitars in all sizes, from almost all furniture of the Jazz Age. an archtop guitar.
small parlor instruments to Contact us
the big-bodied dreadnought, through. However, some of carefully applied darker with your finishing questions by
first built in 1917, and archtop folks preferred added color. reddish or brown color writing to Woodworker’s Journal,
guitars for another style of Jazz and orchestral players, around the edges to create
4365 Willow Drive,
music and a different sound. who favored archtop guitars a corona, or sunburst. When
Medina, MN 55340,
As guitarmaking went for their strong mid-range done expertly, the sunburst
from individuals to factories, chop and ability to cut color visually intensifies the or by emailing us at:
clear, high-gloss lacquer through when played with a arch of the top. fi[email protected].
became the favorite finish big band, often opted for so- As concert halls got bigger Please include your address,
for guitars. Lacquer sprays called sunburst finishes. For and microphones came into phone number and email
on, dries very fast, lets you that, you stain the wood in use, even the large body
address (if you have one)
apply thin layers that blend a background color, usually guitars weren’t loud enough.
with your thoughts or questions.
into one another seamless- yellow, seal with clear lacquer, The first electric guitar was
ly, and lets the wood show then spray one or more coats mocked up around 1925, but
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Finishing Thoughts continued
finishes that show off the and topping it with repairable,

wood, electric guitar aficio- easy-to-buff lacquer.
nados often wanted their Nor are ultra-durable
guitars to look more like … finishes limited to solidbody
well, cars, to be honest. It’s electric guitars. Our chemical
no surprise that Leo Fender, prowess means we can create
whose company emerged in finishes with whatever prop-
the 1940s, painted his guitars erties we want, apply thick
with brightly colored automo- or thin coats, and even cure
tive paints. them in a variety of ways.
Fender used DuPont’s One of the slickest curing
automotive lines of nitrocel- methods is UV, or ultraviolet.
Early Fender guitars used two DuPont automotive lacquers: Duco nitro- lulose lacquer, called Duco, A clear, almost solvent-free
cellulose (left) and Lucite acrylic (right). and acrylic lacquer, called finish laced with photo-reac-
Lucite. He didn’t even bother tive additive is sprayed on.
to change the color names. The coating is then exposed
Thus, we have old Fender to strong ultraviolet light in a
guitars in Duco colors like particular wavelength, and it
Dakota Red, Daphne Blue cures completely, from liquid
and Seafoam Green, and to solid, in just seconds. Tay-
in Lucite colors like Lake lor Guitars helped pioneer
Placid Blue, Olympic White this guitar finish, and their
and Shoreline Gold. Why, beautiful, great-sounding
you could match your guitar
color to your car, and back
when I repaired guitars, I
had one customer who did
just that. He owned a ’56
Two-part linear urethane, also known as automotive polyurethane, makes Buick and a matching tur-
a finish that’s both durable and glossy. quoise Fender Stratocaster.
Car finishes became more
within two decades some- sophisticated, and guitars
thing very different emerged, followed close behind. Mod-
with a decidedly new appear- ern guitar finishes include
ance and different concerns linear urethane, a durable,
when it came to finishing. two-part polyurethane that is
None of the formerly crit- easy to apply, cures fast and
ical sound issues are at play is relatively low in VOCs; two- Using a combination of clear
with the solidbody electric part conversion varnish (also finish and translucent dye, this BC
guitar. It’s a thick slab of wood called catalyzed lacquer); Rich guitar shows off its dazzling
figured maple top.
cut in a variety of interesting cross-linked acrylics; and
shapes, and almost any coat- two- or three-part polyester acoustics prove its worth. In
ing can go on top of it. What finishes that are water clear fact, the coating is so durable
does matter is durability, and make a film as tough as that pickguards, invented
because, let’s face it, electric your kitchen counter. In fact, to protect the finish, aren’t
guitar players have a reputa- the same coating may be on even necessary.
tion for being a lot harder on your kitchen counter, fiber- There you have it: from
their “axe” than the average glass boat hull and favorite simple, food-based ingredi-
classical guitarist. guitar. Some guitarmakers ents to high-tech films, the
Taylor Guitars helped pioneer
the ultra-durable, crystal-clear, They also favor a different today even use a hybrid history of guitarmaking has
high-tech, UV-cured finish for appearance. While acoustic approach, applying clear poly- dabbled in them all.
acoustic guitars. guitarists gravitate to clear ester as a base coat and filler,

presents
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HEYDid You Know?
Woodworking trivia: the plumb truth
The hide glue we use for wood is simply

gelatin, the same material, extracted from
animal hides, used to make that iconic,
jiggly dessert. The primary difference in
food grade gelatin is that it is more highly
VI¿RIHWSEWXSVMHMXSJMXWHEVOEQFIV
color and unattractive odor.
photo used with permission by Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory ®
What Does It All Mean?

A quick guide to terms from the
world of woodworking. The traditional Louisville Slugger®
baseball bat is turned from northern
Wane: A natural edge on lumber, white ash (Fraxinus Americana) cut
often with bark still attached from a particular forest on the
NY/PA border. It’s been made by
the Hillerich & Bradsby Co. since
Sled: Device to guide a workpiece
they registered that name in
squarely and safely through a
1894. (Earlier H&B-made bats, from
cutting or shaping operation Bud Hillerich, shown here turning a bat, brought bat
making to the company that’s been making Louisville 1884 on, were called Falls City
Sluggers for over 100 years. Slugger bats.)
Worm Drive: A driveshaft with
a spiral groove that transfers Tried and true:4PYQF
rotation at a 90˚ angle to the
FSFWLERK´XVYIµSV
motor; used most commonly in
circular saws vertical, and were originally made of
lead, which is TPYQFYQ in Latin. You
can get a corresponding horizontal
TPERIF]EPMKRMRKXLIFSF·WWXVMRK[MXLSRI
edge of a try square: thus, tried and true.
Submit your Your Trivia Test:

own trivia ... Q What woodworking product might
Send in a curious fact about
your favorite topic and ours:
you find on your food?
woodworking. If it is selected
insect for that lovely shine.
for use, you will win an
awesome prize!
store, you can thank the Kerria lacca
Jerry Midler of Lake Havasu City, Arizona, will receive a
a bright red apple you bought in a grocery
Submit your Trivia to Woodworker’s SENCO FinishPro 23SXP 23-ga. Headless Pinner,
time you eat jelly beans or take a bite of
Journal, Dept. Trivia, 4365 Willow Drive, 1 Gallon Finish & Trim Air Compressor (model PC1010N)
Shellac isn’t just used on wood: the next
Medina, MN 55340. Or send us an email: and pack of 23-ga. Pins (item A101009) for having his
Answer
[email protected] contribution selected for the Trivia page.

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Whether you’re ripping or crosscutting, the next generation
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JOBSITE RADIOS: THE BEST SOUNDS FOR YOUR SHOP (page 48)

“America’s leading woodworking authority”™

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Let your passion for wood lead

The world’s largest furniture

Woodworker’s Journal June 2015 3

Northwoods Canoe Paddle

8 Letters 22 Woodturning 70 What’s in Store

6 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

Projects from Many Paths JUNE 2015

8 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

18V 4 PC. Lithium-Ion 18V AirStrike™

18V Compact Lithium-Ion 18V 2 PK. High Capacity

Phone Works Phone Works™ Laser

Stud Sensor Distance Measurer

RYOBI™ Days Begins May 4th.

BUY GREEN SAVE SOME GREEN

Official Project Plans by

Go to RYOBITOOLS.COM/RYOBIDAYS for plans, entry, and official rules

have king-size beds as well. WJ Responds: We’re glad

10 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

FISHER FORGE LLC

ETSY @ Fisher Forge LLC

Woodworker’s Journal June 2015 11

12 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

Conventional 3M™ SandBlaster™

Woodworker’s Journal June 2015 13

Scrap Block Creates

Tape-and-cut for Same-length Parts

14 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

Automated Joinery System – Starting at $399.99

New Ready2Lift shown

Woodworker’s Journal June 2015 15

Your Saw Blade? of saw blades and picked your

THIS ISSUE’S EXPERTS

Joanna Werch Takes is

A According to our local

study fungi) have been hav- This will emit millions of

June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

A Tool to Transfer Doug Ripka’s photo

18 June 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

also have the advantage of

ENGRAVE IT. CUT IT. MARK IT.

C reating your own custom cabinet and wood finishing

3D Engraving Inlays Photo Engraving Desktop systems starting at $7,995

To request a brochure, DVD, and samples, contact us at:

Woodworker’s Journal June 2015 19

Contestants used a variety of methods to accomplish their carvings.

that ﬁrsthand while attending An International Cohort

Sand as thin as 1/32”, as

Power requirements 110 Volt,