A Jewelry Box for

Someone Special:
Three Great Plans

Jewelry
Chest
Photo by Al Parrish

Based on the proportions of full-size early

American blanket chests, this projects
small size makes it easy to build.

These small boxes feature all the joinery and detail of the
full-size classics. Building this piece is great practice before
tackling the big stuff.

ast year, the kids and I decided to surprise

my wife, Terri, with a special woodworking
project that we all worked on.
Its usually easy to get children involved in building a project in the shop, but its hard to keep them
interested. With the exception of birdhouses, most
woodworking projects take a good deal of time and
patience to produce something worthwhile.
And thats why this jewelry chest is a great project. I developed the proportions directly from fullsized blanket chests, so it looks good and right to
the eye. But the joinery and its small size make it
a project that we could complete easily in a long
afternoon. In fact, as youll see, this project turned
out better than I could have imagined.
by Troy Sexton
Troy Sexton designs and builds custom furniture in Sunbury,
Ohio, for his company, Sexton Classic American Furniture.
Troy is a contributing editor for Popular Woodworking.

The WoodRat in action as seen from below. Check out the companys web site at woodrat.com to see all
the useful joints this system can build.

The WoodRat allows me to space the pins and tails in almost

any configuration I please. And because one part acts as the
template for the other, the fit is nice and firm.

Dovetailed to Your Taste

The four sides of this box are joined
using machine-cut through-dovetails. But theres no reason you
have to do it this way. If you have
a machine that cuts half-blind
dovetails in 1 2"-thick stock, that
would be fine. Or if you hand-cut
your joints, thats OK, too. And
if youre just not ready for dovetails, you can always cut a 1 4" x
1
2" rabbet on the ends of the front
and back pieces, and join your
case using glue and nails.
To cut through-dovetails, I
use my WoodRat (woodrat.com),
a jig that you see quite a lot in
England, but rarely in this country. Ive had mine for years and
have always relied on the accuracy and versatility of this jig. I
often wonder why the WoodRat
never caught on here. Dovetails
are just one small function of this
useful joinery system.
Cut your tails and pins and
then finish sand the inside of the
box. I start with 100-grit paper
and work up to 180-grit.
Apply glue to the joints and
clamp the box up. Measure the
box from corner to corner to ensure its square. A shove or a tap

The bottom piece

is small enough
that wood movement isnt much of
an issue. I simply
nailed it in place.

usually will knock things into

place with a box this small. When
your glue is dry, sand the outside
of the case to its final grit.

Small is Simple
Because this box is small, theres
no need to make the bottom complicated. In a full-size blanket

chest, the solid-wood bottom

would float in a groove cut into
the four sides, or it would rest on
cleats screwed to the sides. Either
of these two strategies would allow
for the expansion and contraction of the bottom and allow the
chest to carry some serious weight.
Luckily, this bottom doesnt

need to carry much weight. And

the bottom piece is so narrow that
wood movement isnt much of a
problem with this project.
There are two ways to do this.
One way is to cut your bottom to
fit exactly inside the sides and
then rip off about 116" of the width.
Then put the bottom in place and

popwood.com

1/2"

1/2"

15"

1/2"

1/2"

Base
moulding

2 3/8"

1/16"

Lid
moulding

2 1/2"

3/4"

5/16"

7 1/2"
C

3/8" radius
core box bit

1/2"

Moulding machining

Top plan, lid removed

1/2"

1/2"

1/2"

16 1/16"

3/4"

8 9/16"

B
Hinge

A
A

7"

2 3/8"

1/16"

3/8"

R 1 1/8"

1 1/4"
D 1 1/2"

3/8"

R 1 1/8"

1 1/2"

1 1/2"

1 3/8"

Front elevation/section

Profile/section
Construction Notes:

B
2 1/2"

1 1/2"

Back elevation

Through-dovetail corner

Hinge mortise depth equal to

combined thickness of hinge plates

Shiplapped bottom boards

1/2"thick x 1 1/2"w. x 1 1/4"l.

E
F

1/16"

back leg support block

secure it with nails. Or make your

bottom in two pieces (as shown
in the diagrams) and cut a 1 4" x
1
2" shiplap to join the two pieces.
Then nail the two pieces in place.
The second way, while a little
more complex, results in no gap
in the bottom.
The base moulding also is simple. First rout a small cove on the
top edge of your trim pieces using
a 38" core-box bit. Miter the three
pieces as shown in the photos.
Then cut the feet to shape as
shown in the drawings at left using
your band saw or jigsaw.
Finish sand the moulding and
then glue and nail it in place. To
reinforce the base moulding at
the rear of the case, glue and nail
two back leg support blocks as
shown in the diagrams.
Attach the top to the base
using small brass hinges, mortising the leaves into the case only.
Make your hinge mortise as deep
as both leaves of the hinge. This
saves effort and is less likely to result in errors. I recommend you
purchase high-quality hinges for
this project. Hinges intended for
jewelry boxes that open to 95
would be best.
Now prepare to attach the top
moulding to the top. This moulding has the same small cove routed on its edge as the base moulding. Miter, glue and nail it in place
just like the base moulding.

Outline of base moulding

Miter mouldings at front corners

JEWELRY CHEST
NO.

C
D

Bottom plan
POPULAR WOODWORKING June 2003

1
2
2
1
2

ITEM

DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
T
W
L

Lid
Front, back
Sides
Bottom
Back leg supports
Base moulding
Top moulding

7
7
71 2
11 2
23 8

16

16 16
16
81 2
15
11 4
38
38

M AT E R I A L

Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Poplar
Poplar
Cherry
Cherry

Plywood spacer

When mitering the base moulding, first cut a couple miters and check to make sure
your saw is set for the right angle to make an airtight fit.

Clamp a plywood spacer to the front that positions the base moulding exactly
where you want it. I always find the cut line for my miters by placing the work on
the piece and marking from the underside as shown in the photo. This is more
accurate than measuring.

Once your miter is cut, check the fit before adding the glue and nails.

Custom Trays
Now you can build a few trays
with dividers for all the jewelry.
The trays simply rest on top of
each other inside the chest. Butt
joints, nails and glue are all thats
needed here. The bottoms can
be covered in felt or flocked after
finishing the trays.
Speaking of finishing, I finished this piece with three coats

of lacquer using my HVLP system, sanding between coats.

We completed Terris jewelry
box in record time, and the kids
had a blast building it. In fact, the
project turned out so well, we decided to sell some of these chests
at a furniture show. And the kids
are now helping me build the next
batch after the homeworks
done, of course. PW

Repeat the same operation with the moulding for the top piece.

popwood.com

Twister Y
This undulating band saw box is
simple to make, and it makes a great gift.

es, you could say building this box is

like dancing. Your partner is that beautiful
wood youve just found or have been secretly
saving for the past decade, and the music is
the sound your tools make.
This band-sawn box design is an intermediate project due to the number of drawers
and amount and type of carving involved.
The carving and shaping can be done quickly
with coarse-through-fine sandpaper on a belt
sander, oscillating spindle sander and with
sanding drums on a portable drill, then refined
with a finishing sander and hand sanding.
Some of the carving mainly at the saw kerfs
must be done with straight chisels and lots
of coarse-through-fine sandpaper wrapped
around dowels, flexible rubber sanding accessories if you have them, and, of course fingers.
(You definitely need these, so take special care
around a running band saw blade!)
When selecting wood, look for grain patterns that are exceptional. Burls, curls, spalting, unusual colors and yes, even cracks, splits,
worm or bug holes and checks can be used to
create a box that will truly be one of a kind.
When you cut a board into shorter lengths,
inspect the end grain and match them to each
other when gluing up a blank for your box,
such as bookmatching. This can make your
box sing a tune that no one has ever heard.

LKV

Make the Carcase from a Block

The photos on the following pages will take
you step by step through the building process,
but an overview here will be helpful.
First select your wood, choosing a nicelooking grain pattern. Youll probably need
to glue up a sandwich to achieve your desired
thickness (which can vary according to your
likes). Wooden handscrews are the best clamp
choice for this step, applying even pressure at
all points on the glue-up.
Flatten the bottom squarely to the back of
your box blank. A jointer is the easiest tool to
use for this, but a handplane, disc sander or
stationary belt sander will also work.

b y Dav i d t h i e l , J i m S ta c k
& lois keener ventura

Popular Woodworking April 2009

lead Photo by Al parrish; step photos by david thiel

Twister. The organic curves and custom pulls in

this eye-catching design can be made from any
combination of woods.

Now cut a 1 4"-thick piece off the back of

the blank. (This piece, which will be glued
back on after youre done cutting the drawers
out, will be the boxs back.)
Make a copy of the pattern at right and
attach it to the front of the box blank using
spray adhesive. Follow the solid lines to cut
out and remove the drawer blanks from the
center of the box. Perform any finish sanding
on the interior of the box at this time.
Next, glue the back you removed earlier
back on the box. After the glue is dry, cut out
the outside box shape and sand the exterior
smooth.

Drawer Cavities
To form the drawers, a 1 2"-thick front and
1 4"-thick back are sliced from each blank.
Then draw the cavity outline (the dotted line
on the pattern) on the front of the remaining
drawer blank.
To give the drawer cavity square corners,
make the two side-cavity defining cuts first.
Then start at one top corner of the cavity
and cut diagonally toward the bottom of the
cavity, cutting along the bottom toward the
opposite corner. Cut back along the bottom
line to finish creating the drawer cavity. Then
glue the drawer backs and fronts back on the
drawers.

Basic Tools List

table saw
14" band saw
3/16 band saw blades
wood glue
a variety of clamps
stationary belt sander
portable drill and 1" x 2" sanding drum
finishing sander
sheet sandpaper in #80, #120,
#180 and #220 grits
coarse-, medium- and fine-grit sleeves
for drums and belts

OPTIONAL TOOLS
1/4" band saw blade
oscillating spindle sander
plunge router
router table
flocking kit

Finger slots may

be used instead
of drawer pulls.

TWISTER PATTERN

1 SQUARE = 1"

Excerpted from Sculpted Band Saw Boxes 2008 by Lois Keener Ventura. Used with permission of Popular Woodworking Books, an imprint of F+W Media, Inc. Visit your local bookseller or call 800-448-0915 to obtain a copy.
popularwoodworking.com

Shaping
Shaping the edges of the box and drawer edges
can be done several different ways. The safest way (in terms of not removing too much
material at a time) is to use a wood rasp. I
prefer a fine-cut rasp. A coarse rasp can tear
out chunks of wood at the sharp corners and
delicate edges of the box.
An oscillating spindle sander can be used
to rough out areas where a fair amount of material needs to be removed. Final shaping can
then be done with files and sandpaper.
A router mounted in a table or handheld (a

In and out. This box is a great-looking

design, but it does require you to back the
blade out of the pattern a number of times. This
is caused by the peaks on the drawers. If theres a
sharp peak, you cant turn sharply enough to create the point. The look is worth the effort, but be
aware. The first cut starts at the bottom of the box
and undulates up to the peak of the lower drawer.

trim router is just the right size) can be used

to round over the edges of the boxes. A router
is fast and unforgiving, so run test pieces to
double-check your setup.

Drawer pulls can add a dramatic effect to your

boxes. Cutting them can be done safely on the
band saw. There is no kickback the work
is held tightly to the table by the downward
sweep of the blade.
Shaping drawer pulls can be done using
the same tools used to sand the boxes. Again,

a power sander removes material quickly, so

unless youre a safecracker, you will want to
keep your fingerprints.
Hand sanding is the final step.
After your pulls are cut out, shaped and
sanded, and, when the box is ready, you can
attach them to the drawer fronts. A little dab
of glue will do.
The box featured here is mahogany with
ebony pulls, and is finished with three sprayed
coats of semi-gloss lacquer but you can customize yours however you like. 

JS

Custom Pulls Finish the Box

The other side. When Id completed the

cut in step one, there was enough inner
tension in the wood to close the opening gap,
making it very difficult to back the blade out. I
eventually tapped a wooden wedge into the gap
to make enough room to back the blade out.

Pop and
drop. With
the machine off,
raise the guide
bar and lift the
box above the
drawer.

Round two. Start into the second drawer

from the rounded left edge of the first box.
Make this as smooth a transition as you can. It
will pay off in the look of the piece.

Popular Woodworking April 2009

Free. When the second cut is complete,

the drawer will be free of the box. Stop
the saw and lift the box slightly to make sure the
drawer is loose.

One down.
Theres no need
to back the blade out
this time, just let the
box settle back onto
the band saw table.
The drawer is free and
youre set up to make
the next cut.

Point to the left. The rest of the box is a

series of turns along one side of the box,
ending in the top point.

Point to the right. Then you back out of

that cut, re-enter the cut and swing around
to the other side to finish at the point again.

10

Good clamps.
Wooden handscrews
are often seen as archaic and
interesting, but not often used.
Part of the problem, I believe,
is that they take some getting
used to for the perfect adjustment. Its worth the effort.
These clamps are perfect
for working with band-sawn
boxes. The wide, long and
flat faces allow even pressure
across a number of awkward
locations. As seen here, the
clamps easily reach across each
of the drawer dividers to make
sure the box is strong and the
seams are tight.

Smooth curves. With the drawers separated from the

box, its time to move to the spindle sander. These openings are a nice size to accommodate a spindle drum of a larger
diameter, making it an easier sanding operation.

11

Front While the glue on

the box dries, head back to
the band saw to work on the drawers.
Set the fence for a 12" spacing and cut
each of the fronts from the drawers.

14

12

and back. Reset the fence for 14"

and repeat the process to remove
the backs of all four drawers. Check twice
before you make the cut to ensure youre
actually cutting off the back and not the
front. Easy mistake.

Handles. I opted for a different handle

than Lois had drawn, feeling that the
grain of the mahogany was so attractive that I
didnt want to hide it with a larger handle. I was
looking around the shop and found a leftover
strip of ebony and decided that would do nicely.
I first cut the handles to size (3 8" 3 8" 3 4").

15

13

Other clamps. The other perfect clamp for band-sawn

boxes is a one-handed, fast-adjust clamp. It only takes
a little pressure to hold the drawers together, but the real benefit is in their one-handed operation. You need the other hand
to adjust the pieces so theyre aligned properly. Otherwise you
add a lot of sanding and end up with a misshapen drawer. The
wide, soft pads on the clamps are pretty useful, too.

Trapezoid. A rectangle didnt work for

the look, so I decided on a trapezoid
shape for the handles. This also makes them
better handles, so two good reasons to get the
fingers close to the sanding disc.

16

Pull! For the longer side of the handles,

I moved to the belt sander. Do be
cautious here, because it doesnt take much to
launch the handle across the room. It makes
sense to make an extra handle or two, just in
case. pw 
DT

popularwoodworking.com

Dovetailed Keepsake Box

B Y G L E N D. H U E Y

Shortcuts learned as
you build this classic
box help you become
a better joiner.

his box is chock-full, but dont

look on the inside. Check out the
outside. Its loaded with dovetail
joinery through dovetails on the front
and half-blind dovetails on the back.
Its an ideal practice project for the ner
points of the dovetail joint and when
youre nished youll have a great-looking keepsake box that can be built on
the cheap using offcuts.

Prep the Parts, Layout & Pins

Mill the material for the top and bottom
panels, and prepare the box front and
sides. Mill the back, but dont cut it to
length at this time.
The pin boards are the sides while the
tail boards are the boxs front and back.
From a pins-rst perspective, set your
marking or cutting gauge to the thickness of the front, then scribe a baseline
onto both faces of one end of each side
piece. To mark the layout for two half
pins and two full pins, equally space
the tail sockets and use a square to pull
the lines from the edge to the baseline
on the inside (non-show) face. Then
grab your dovetail saw and cut on the
waste side of the lines, as shown in the
photo at right.
To chisel out the waste, its best to
begin with the face of the pin board up
so you remove the wider portion of the
tail socket rst. Work halfway through
the thickness before ipping the board
to complete the pins.

POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE April 2011

44-47_1104_PWM_KeepsakeBox.indd 44

Skill builder box. Theres more to dovetails than basic techniques. Learn the tricks and uncover the
secrets to improve your dovetail joinery skills whether youre building for strength or for show.

One area that creates problems with

the pin-to-tail t is the back of the tail
sockets. Woodworkers often leave
end grain protruding into the socket.

Waste side. The trick to accurate saw cuts is to

follow both lines as you cut. Once you reach
the scribeline, move the saw to perpendicular
and it will follow the already-cut kerf.

Make sure to undercut the bottom of

the socket. The bottom of the socket
has a V-shape to it when its complete.
Fine-tune your pins; they become the
pattern for your tail board.

Tail Match
Next, set your marking gauge to the
thickness of the side pieces to scribe
a line onto both ends of the box front.
Align a side with the scribe line, and
the top and bottom edges, then transfer
the pin layout onto the tail board. To
confirm that your parts are oriented
correctly, check that the tails are widest
at the end of the box front.
Saw on the waste side of your lines.
For this, you can turn to power tools
such as a band saw without sacricing
the hand-cut look.
How close should you cut to your
lines? A good rule of thumb is: The
harder your material and the more pins
and tails in your layout, the closer you

LEAD PHOTO BY AL PARRISH; STEP PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR; ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROBERT W. LANG

1/26/11 4:03:32 PM

cut to your lines. If youre working with

pine, stay a skosh farther from your lines
than if cherry or another hardwood is
your material of choice.
Remove the waste of the pin sockets just as you did for the tail sockets.
Keep the back wall of the pin sockets
V-shaped. Test-t the joints.

Half-blinds are More Work

Half-blind dovetails require many of
the same techniques as through-dovetails, but there is a major difference in
layout and execution. Again, the side
pieces are your pin boards and thats
where to begin.
Take a look at the layout photo above
center; your layout should be similar.
Notice that the lines are sawn well
past the scribeline working beyond
the scribeline allows for easier waste
removal due to the material being cut
as opposed to spending more time on
chisel work (and its appropriate for
period reproductions).
Care needs to be taken as you remove

Its OK to miss this line. With the stock lying

at, make the cuts to dene the pins for halfblind dovetails. Over-cutting the lines beyond
the scribeline leads to easier waste removal.

Up and at em. Remove small corners of waste

to keep the pin corners from being fractured
as you clean out the dovetail sockets.

the waste to create the tail sockets.

Because you bring waste up through the
narrow part of the tail socket, the corners of the pins are easily broken off as
you excavate the waste. To prevent that,
remove a small amount of waste from
each corner before hogging out the center. Set your chisel, bevel side up, across
a corner of the tail area then lightly tap
the chisel moving in an upward motion.

As you work, the small corner rides up

the bevel of the pin side. Repeat these
steps a couple times to make sure the
pin corners stay put.
Theres extra work removing the
waste deep in the corners, and its especially important to keep not only the
back of the socket beveled (pare any
protruding end grain), but to also slope
the bottom of the socket, too. If the bot-

Dovetailed Keepsake Box

NO.

ITEM
T

1 grid square = 1 2"

DIMENSIONS (INCHES)
W
L

2
1
1
2

Top/bottom
Front
Back
Side

58

Foot frame

12

3 4
3 4
3 4

11
334
334
334
238

MATERIAL

1334
1234
1214*
1012

COMMENTS

Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry
Cherry

11

2 feet/pc.

* Take actual length from partially assembled box.

BRACKET FOOT PATTERN

133 4"

11"

123 4"

101 2"
5 8"

33 4"

33 4"

5 8"

5 8"

23 8"

23 8"
13 8"

4"

ELEVATION

PROFILE
popularwoodworking.com

44-47_1104_PWM_KeepsakeBox.indd 45

1/26/11 4:03:47 PM

tom angles upward away from the end

any amount at all, a gap appears as the
mating piece slides up the angle and
your t will be too tight. A sloping bottom accounts for most of the problems
in half-blind dovetail work.

Just a cats whisker. To accurately set your

cutting gauge, allow the edge of the cutting
wheel to just lip the bottom of the tail socket.
Too much on the wood and your tails will be
too long.

Sizing Up the Back

To acquire the backs length, measure the box front from scribeline to
scribeline then add twice the depth of
your half-blind tail socket, as measured
from the inside face.
Set your marking gauge so the tip of
the pin or wheel just rests on the bottom of the dovetail socket, then scribe
both ends of the back. Position the side
at the scribe line a portion of the side
hangs off the backs edge and transfer
the layout with a pencil.

Speaking from considerable

experience, failing stinks. Just
dont be undone by it. Failure is
no more a permanent condition
than is success.
Sen. John McCain (1936 - )
2010 commencement address at
Ohio Wesleyan University

Saw and remove the waste making

sure the back of the pin socket is Vshaped. Test the t. If all is good, glue
the tails and pins to form the box. If you
worked to the scribe lines and removed
any protruding end grain, your box
should be square. Check it, then set it
aside as the glue dries.

Dovetail Saw Selection: Dont Get Bogged Down by Minutiae

f youre about to hand cut your rst

set of dovetails, youre going to need
a saw. Which should you select? Its my
opinion that we get mired in details. The
saying is Paralysis through analysis.
This seems to be the avor of the month
in anything woodworking, especially
when choosing saws.
Any dovetail saw will do the job. If
you have one, use it. As you gain experience youll be in a better position to
understand and evaluate available saws.
Thats the time to change or upgrade
your tool. However, if you need to purchase a saw, here are some basics.
I began hand cutting dovetails using
a Japanese saw. I felt comfortable using
it and continued to do so for many years.
The problem I discovered was that the
teeth often broke. (I had saws that looked
like Jack-o-Lantern teeth carved by
6-year-olds.) While brittleness is a characteristic of Japanese saws, my breakage was most likely due to the fact that I
used that saw for everything in the shop.
It was the only saw I owned. I changed
the blades a couple times replaceable
blades are nice when considering Japanese saws and I switched saws along
the way. Eventually I purchased and
dedicated one saw to dovetails while my
older saw handled everything else.
As I became better at pins and tails, I
purchased a new Western saw, but was
unhappy with the way it cut (I didnt try it
before I bought it). What eventually got
me to adopt an Western saw for dovetailing was when I was handed a saw that

felt great in my hand and cut as I expected

a good saw to cut maybe experience
helped, too.
This was about the time that the explosion in new dovetail saws began. In what
was seemingly overnight, we have way too
many from which to choose. Beyond the
simple Japanese or Western choice, we
now need to decide between thin and thick

blades, the points per inch (PPI) and even

the weight of the back of the saw. Experience will best answer these questions.
If I were looking to purchase my rst
dovetail saw, I would shy away from thin
saw plates. Its true these saws take less
effort to use and may be a bit quicker as you
cut, but without experience its very easy
to kink the blade, possibly ruining the saw.
Its true that Japanese saws are thin, but its
more difcult to kink the Dozuki because
you cut on the pull stroke as opposed to the
push stroke as with American saws.

Points per inch on a dovetail saw is

where your workpiece best dictates a
choice. If youre cutting into thick wood
such as when dovetailing case pieces,
a saw with fewer points per inch is better. The larger gullets between the teeth
carry waste from the cut making the
work easier.
If, on the other hand, you nd yourself dovetailing drawer boxes, then a
higher PPI would work better. Carrying
large amounts of waste from the cut is
not important because the teeth are not
in the cut as long. Also, a saw with more
PPI is easier to start in the cut.
Given this information, do you need
two dovetail saws? No a middle-of-theroad PPI will cut just ne.
To me, all this information is great
to understand and will become useful
with experience and as your woodworking budget grows, but as a beginner the
selection of a dovetail saw should come
down to just two questions. 1) Is the saw
comfortable in your hand? (Try the saw
prior to purchase if at all possible.) 2) Can
I make a clean cut using this saw?
Dont worry about purchasing your
last dovetail saw. It may be that your rst
saw is the saw you use throughout your
woodworking career, maybe one of
the high-end saws is the answer to your
dreams, or you might not take kindly to
pins and tails only to revert back to nails
or routers. Youll be better off to purchase a quality saw and get busy dovetailing. Gain experience, then step up to
a new saw (if you feel the need). GH

POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE April 2011

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Mill and size the material for the feet.

Form another box before separating the
individual feet. This keeps you from
working with pieces too small to handle
easily and it assures that you have four
sets of feet that match the dovetails on
the box. Cut through-dovetail pins and
tails (pins on the sides and tails at the
front and back).
Transfer the foot design onto each
piece and label the feet to easily match
up the pairs later. A 3 4" bit at a drill
press forms the spur, then cut and sand
the proles. Pair each set according to
your labels, add a spring clamp to the

foots pin board as you slip the dovetail

together its easy to split the foot as the
joint is joined then glue and assemble
the feet.

Shapely Bottom
Mill the top and bottom panels to size
(1" longer than your box and 1 2" wider).
Attach the feet to the bottom with glue
and a couple spring clamps. As the glue
dries, sand your box to #180 grit then
sand the box bottom and ush the feet
even with the bottoms edges.
To add interest and shadow lines,
prole the edge of the bottoms front and

Theyre better paired. While scraps the length of the feet may be prevalent in your shop, working
with longer pieces is easier. It also keeps the feet pins and tails matching those on the box.

Supplies
Ball & Ball
ballandball.com or 610-363-7330
1

134 x 134 Wm & Mary chased,

cast escutcheon
#L61-002, $16.15 each

Price correct at time of publication.

two sides. (Dont shape the back edge.)

Limit your prole to 716" wide.
Position and center your box on the
base then draw a light pencil line around
the inside and outside edges of the box.
With the box set aside, drill pilot holes
centered between the two lines. Use
two screws at the front of the box, and
cut nails at the sides and back.
Position the box to the base, add a
clamp to hold things secure then ip
the unit over to attach the two.

The Finishing Touch

Ease the sharp corners of the top, then
attach it to the box with inexpensive
hinges from a hardware store that are
mortised into the box and top.
To dress up the nished box, add a
nice escutcheon. If you drill out behind
the keyhole and paint the area black,
the look is more authentic.
After a few coats of amber shellac
to warm the cherrys appearance, all
thats left is to load the inside with special items you wish to keep Popular
Woodworking Magazine ts perfectly
into the keepsake box. PWM
Glen is senior editor of this magazine. Contact him at
513-531-2690 x11293 or [email protected].

u Go Online FOR MORE

For links to all these online extras, go to:
u popularwoodworking.com/apr11
VIDEO: Learn how to turn inexpensive
hardware into dark, grungy hinges.
VIDEO: Watch Frank Klausz pound out
dovetails in three minutes.
WEB SITE: Read Roy Underhills tails
rst take on dovetails.
IN OUR STORE: New Masters of the

Wooden Box by Oscar Fitzgerald.

Planning ahead. Choose your edge prole carefully so your box continues to t the base after the
edges are moulded and make sure the pilot holes t centered in the box frame.

Our products are available online at:

ShopWoodworking.com

popularwoodworking.com

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