A/C Electric Motor Troubleshooting Guide - Test Procedures
A/C Electric Motor Troubleshooting Guide - Test Procedures
A/C Electric Motor Troubleshooting Guide - Test Procedures
POST a QUESTION or READ FAQs about how to troubleshoot electric motors such as air
conditioning compressor motors, heating equipment burner or fan motors, swimming pool motors,
water well pump motors
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While our page top photo shows the red reset button most clearly, the reset
button on the motor at left may be harder to spot. Sometimes the reset button
on an electric motor is hard to find, and sometimes there is no reset button!
See DMMs VOMs SAFE USE OF for help in making safe use of electrical test
equipment before you start poking your meter probes into anything.
The electric motor has quite a few parts if examined in detail, switches, wires,
possibly capacitors, oiling ports and more, but there are four basic parts to
every HVAC electric motor:
1. Electric motor rotor: the rotor follows (turns in the direction impelled
by) the rotating magnetic field and thus spins the motor shaft
2. Electric motor stator: the stator consists is a device or core containing
start and run windings (of copper wire) wound around a central core to
create a magnetic field.
3. Electric motor windings: the two windings are used to create an
electrical field in the stator.
1. Definition of Start winding: in an A/C (alternating current)
electric motor electrical current flowing through the start winding is
used just to get the motor spinning from a stopped condition. The
start winding is disconnected, usually by a centrifugal switch,
when the motor is up to speed.
2. Definition of Run winding: in an A/C electric motor the run
winding is what keeps the motor spinning once it has started.
Current flowing through this winding produces a rotating magnetic
field in the stator that keeps the motor shaft turning after the start
winding has turned off.
4. Electric motor start switch: a centrifugal switch connects the A/C
electrical power to the motor to the start winding on the stator until the
motor has reached a speed typically of 75-80% of its full run speed
(typically that's1725 rpm or 3450 rpm on newer high-speed oil burners).
In addition to the basic electric motor components above there are two other
features to know about when troubleshooting a motor.
Which way does an Electric Motor Run - Can Electric Motors run
Backwards? Information found on the electric motor's data tag.
Details for this topic have moved to ELECTRIC MOTOR RUN DIRECTION.
In short: check the motor label: uni-directional electric motors run just one
way: clockwise (CW) or counterclockwise (CCW) but not both. Bi-directional &
self-reversing electric motors run in either direction, CW or CCW. Some
electric motors can start and run "backwards" following damage to the motor's
start capacitor or windings.
If you enlarge the photo [Click any image to see an enlarged, detailed
version] you will see text above the red arrow noting that this is a NON-
REVERSING motor.
See ELECTRIC MOTOR RUN DIRECTION
The blue oval marks the motor's rotating speed - 3450 RPM - this is a high
speed oil burner. Older oil burners and equipment motors run at 1725 RPM.
Some HVAC equipment uses a variable-speed electric motor.
The green rectangle marks other useful data in the data tag for this motor,
made by Emerson Electric in St. Louis MO. This is a 1/7 hp motor, designed
for 115VAC, drawing 2.35A.
These data are helpful when diagnosing electric motor problems: using a
DMM or VOM we can detect unusual current draw above that 2.35A as a sign
of trouble and we can check that the voltage level delivered by the electrical
supply is close to 115VAC 60 cycle current single phase.
A temperature rating (40C) and other data are given as well, including an
explanation that this motor is. thermally protected and that should the motor's
thermal protection switch trip off the user needs to press the red button.
See ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET
This motor's data tag also includes oiling specifications indicating the required
lubrication schedule, discussed
at ELECTRIC MOTOR LUBRICATION
Watch out: when buying replacement electric motors, fuel units, and blower
fan assemblies to be sure they all are compatible. For example on oil fired
heating equipment, the oil burner fuel units (the mechanical heating oil pump
driven by the oil burner electric motor via a coupling) can be purchased as
CW or CCW devices. All three components have to be designed to rotate in a
common direction:
If the fuel unit is not rotated in the proper direction the heating appliance won't
run - it won't receive fuel, and the driving motor and coupling parts may be
damaged.
If a squirrel cage blower fan on an oil burner or inside of an air handler is spun
backwards it will not move much air and equipment will not function properly.
See ELECTRIC MOTOR RUN DIRECTION
For article loading speed we have moved this data to ELECTRIC MOTOR
LUBRICATION
When the electric motor has reached about 75-80% of its full speed the
centrifugal switch opens, thereby disconnecting AC electrical power from the
start winding. Power was already connected to and remains connected to the
run winding.
So if the motor will start but won't keep running, we suspect a bad run winding
or bad wiring to the winding.
For electric motors used in most HVAC applications motor full speed is usually
1725 or 3450 rpm, though some equipment may use variable speed motors
as well. The centrifugal switch will open ("throwout") at about 2800 rpm for a
3450 rpm electric motor, and the centrifugal switch will open at about 1400
rpm for a 1725 rpm electric motor.
Using a well pump motor as an example, most of these troubleshooting tips pertain to
other electric motor applications in buildings too such as in an air conditioning air
handler blower compartment.
Note that DC motors have different operating properties, so while some of the test
procedures listed here will help troubleshoot a DC electric motor, other test procedures
such as resistance measurements and distinctions between brushless and brush type
electric motors may be different. Some of the electric motor troubleshooting suggestions
in this list pertinent to well pump problems are from Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation
Manual, National Pump Co. [38]
Electric motor repair general note: on HVAC equipment the electric motor is not
normally field repaired. The motor is replaced as a non-serviceable item. However in the
hands of an expert, most electric motors can indeed be repaired.
ELECTRIC PANEL
INSPECTION
VOLTS / AMPS
MEASUREMENT EQUIP
TEST EQUIPMENT,
ELECTRICAL GUIDE
VOLTS / AMPS
MEASUREMENT EQUIP
TEST EQUIPMENT,
ELECTRICAL GUIDE
13: Bad or
Wrong starter coil for the power
incorrect starter
supply can prevent the motor Replace the coil or motor
coil on electric
from starting.
motor
15: Bad or TEFC electric motors use a If the motor has not already
jammed internal totally-enclosed fan for cooling. failed, clean the motor fan and
TEFC electric The fan blades are behind metal fan air inlet openings if clogged
motor cooling guard on the back of the motor. and observe whether or not this
fan solves a motor overheating
The fan itself should be securely problem.
fastened to the shaft, should not
wobble nor be bent or damaged, If the motor has not already
and the cooling air inlet openings failed, replace the fan assembly
should not be clogged. A bad if it is bent, damaged, jammed,
cooling fan on an electric motor will not spin freely - or replace
or clogs that prevent cooling of the entire motor assembly.
the motor can lead to motor
failure. - WikiHow [36]
Some of the electric motor troubleshooting suggestions in this list are adapted from and
can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.
Also see Electric Motor Startup Ddiagnosis flowchart, Koldwater Training Software,
retrieved 2016/11/06, Tel: 1-573-547-5630 Email: support @ koldwater.comoriginal
source: http://koldwater.com/electricmotortroubleshooting.html
See:
AMPS MEASUREMENT
METHODS
If voltage is too low, check voltage
at the electrical panel and check
DMM DIGITAL MULTIMETER
that the proper size wiring was
1: Bad line HOW TO USE
used for the ampacity and length
VOLTAGE
of run and that there are no partial
DMMs & VOMs, Using Safely
shorts or damaged wires or
connectors
VOLTS / AMPS
MEASUREMENT EQUIP
TEST EQUIPMENT,
ELECTRICAL GUIDE
Worn bearings
Excessive duty cycle
See:
AMPS MEASUREMENT
METHODS
VOLTS / AMPS
MEASUREMENT EQUIP
TEST EQUIPMENT,
ELECTRICAL GUIDE
See:
AMPS MEASUREMENT
METHODS
VOLTS / AMPS
MEASUREMENT EQUIP
TEST EQUIPMENT,
ELECTRICAL GUIDE
AMPS MEASUREMENT
Various possible defects could
METHODS
cause an electric motor to jam or
8. NOISY
bind, such as loose mounts, bad
electric motor RESET BUTTON, ELECTRIC
bearings, loose couplings,
MOTOR
defects in the driven-assembly or
part. ELECTRIC MOTOR NOISE
DIAGNOSIS
If pressing the reset button starts
the motor but it runs hot or noisy
see the motor noise diagnostic
article at right.
Adapted from various sources including Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the
National Pump Co. and Adapted & expanded from Beckett (1989)[1]
When a table saw is turned on I see sparks... what is the cause and how to fix
it
Reply:
Sparky,
Some sparking is normal within many electric motors including table saws and
drills, but no sparks ought to be seen exiting the device or its motor for
obvious safety reasons.
Typically when I've seen sparks spraying out of a drill or table saw I've found
that the motor brushes need replacement. A burned commutator in the electric
motor is often the root problem. Some light cleaning of the commutator may
be needed. Take care not to score it. Remove the motor armature and sand it
with very fine emery paper. Inspect the amature while cleaning it
If you see score or burn marks those need to be removed - otherwise
the new brushes in the motor will not last long.
If you cannot clean the copper armature sufficiently to remove scores
and burns without sanding through the copper surface completely (I'd
like to see at least 1/16" remaining copper) then the part needs
replacement.
When you've finished cleaning the copper armature surface that
contacts the motor brushes should be both shiny and very smooth.
Replace the motor brushes while you're at it.
When replacing the armature be SURE that you don't leave grit on the
parts or in the bearings or you'll probably ruin the motor. While you're at
it feel for side play when replacing this part - which may indicate worn-
out bearings in the motor mount.
For accuracy, don't measure when the fan motor is hot, allow it to cool off.
When the resistance between each lead wire are those listed in the
specifications for your equipment the fan motor should be normal. Zero
resistance or infinite resistance are indicators of a problem.
STACK RELAY SWITCH On older oil fired boilers and furnaces, SPILL
SWITCH, FLUE GAS DETECTOR (gas fired equipment), and
The main or primary windings are directly connected to the power lines while
the motor in running. The second windings are usually thinner wires physically
offset from the main windings inside the motor.
Less common, these secondary windings are directly powered from the power
lines through a run capacitor that provides a continuous time or phase shift to
the windings.
Also see HOW to CHOOSE a START / RUN CAPACITOR
Far more common, the secondary windings and capacitor are powered
through a centrifugal switch that is closed for approximately 1/2 second on
starting. As the motor gets up to 2/3 speed, the centrifugal switch opens and
disconnects the secondary windings.
This switch is usually behind and part of the connection plate where you
attach the power cables in the end of the motor. Any little piece of dust can
keep this switch from closing when the motor is stopped. At this point, the
motor just sits there and hums, not knowing which way to go or how to get
started.
Simply knocking this one little dust particle off makes the repair, and the motor
will run fine henceforth. Most of the time you have to pull the back end of the
motor off to get to this switch.
Reversing the direction of the current in the secondary windings reverses the
direction of the motor. This can usually be done by switching the leads to the
secondary windings. Sometimes one of the secondary leads is attached to a
primary windings and you have to dig into the windings to find it and separate
it out.
You can buy electronic phase converters to generate a third leg which work
reasonably well, but generally works for just one electric motor at a time. The
converter must be somewhat closely matched to the motor in size. It converts
AC to DC, then creates an artificial third leg electronically. This approach is
about 80-85% effective in that you need to derate the driven motor by 15% or
so.
You can use any 3 phase motor to generate the third leg if you can get it
started. I have read about people using a small single phase motor to get a
bigger 3 phase motor going, or using a pull rope wrapped around the motor
shaft to pull start the big 3 phase motor.
Once running, a 3 phase motor will generate a third leg which you can use to
run other 3 phase motors. Y wound motors work much better than a Delta
wound motors in this approach. This is about 65-70% effective.
I think you can use a capacitor to the third leg much like single phase motors
to generate enough of a phase offset to get the 3 phase motor started.
The shocked client may have used the 3 phase motor to run the compressor
directly. He probably needed a good unloader to prevent the motor from
getting bogged down by the compressor until the motor got up to speed. The
center of the Y windings may have been attached to the neutral or ground
wires, but probably would be shifted towards the third leg.
The capacitors are attached between the first and third leg, which will
generate a leading current towards the first leg, somewhat offsetting the shift
towards the second leg. Adding a few more turns would generate a larger
voltage output from the generated third leg. I have never taken a rotoconverter
apart, so this is just a good guess. Rotoconverters make a very clean 3rd
phase from single phase , approaching is 90-95% effectiveness.
You can run multiple 3 phase motors of different sizes simultaneously. The
motors actually help each other. Rotoconverters are somewhat noisy, maybe
two-three times that of an equivalent motor. Otherwise they work very well.
I have use a rotoconverter for 20 years to run my mill and metal lathe. I am
running a 5 hp lathe on a 3 hp converter and have never managed to slow it
down. Rotoconverters are often used oil companys to run remote oil extraction
pumps
It is cheaper to buy the converter than to pay for the miles of copper for the
third leg from the power company. - 2017/03/31 from Ozzie
...
Or see these
STACK RELAY SWITCH On older oil fired boilers and furnaces, SPILL
SWITCH, FLUE GAS DETECTOR (gas fired equipment), and
LOW WATER CUTOFF CONTROLS On steam heating systems.
Or see these