Personal Care Formulary - 2015

Personal Care
Formulary
Performance and Sensorial
modifiers for:
 AP/DEO
 Sun Care
 Hair Care
 Color Cosmetics
p u re i n c o s m e t i c s
Elementis Specialties is a global supplier of
natural hectorite clay and provider of natural
biofunctional and active ingredients for hair
care, skin care and anti-aging formulations.
Get to know us better.
Before using any of our products, please consult our Safety Data Sheets.
The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond
our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid
violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study
customers’ specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use.
©Copyright 2015, Elementis Specialties, Inc.

All rights reserved.
Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement
is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.
®Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc.
p ure in c o sm e ti cs
Contents
ANTIPERSPIRANT & DEODORANT
TECHNOLOGY
Benefit of Hectorite Clay 1
Performance benefits 2
Aerosol AP with Bentone Gel VS-5PC V 4
Anhydrous Roll-On Antiperspirant 4
Dry Antiperspirant Stick 5
SUN CARE
Technology 6
Organic Sun Lotion 8
Organic Sunscreen 8
Inorganic Sunscreen 9
Inorganic Sunscreen 9
Organic Sunscreen 10
Daily UV Protecting Lotion 10
HAIR CARE
Technology and Market Needs 11
Hair Manageability 12
Hair Shine 12
Hair Repair and Reconstruction 13
Prevention of Damage 14
Color Durability 14
Color Care Shampoo 15
Hair Glossing Serum 15
Color Care Daily Conditioner 16
Nourishing Hair Oil 16
Anti-Aging Conditioner 17
Leave-In Conditioner with Heat Protection 17
Restorative Hair Mask 18
COLOR COSMETICS
Technology 19
CC Cream Multifunctional Hydrator 21
Light Moisturizing BB Cream with SPF 30++ 22
Oil Based Eye Shadow 23
Moisturizing Cream Lipstick 23
Long Wear Mascara 24
Lip Gloss 24
1
Antiperspirant and Deodorant Technology
Underarm antiperspirants come in a variety of forms, but regardless of whether they are aerosols, sprays, roll-on emulsions
or sticks, they all need rheological additives to suspend the Aluminium salts, which are the active ingredients in antiperspi-
rants.
Rheological additives provide uniformity in application and dosage of the product. In stick formulations they act as an in-
process suspension aid, so that the Aluminium salts do not settle out while the sticks are still in their molten state. Once the
stick has formed the rheological additives provide an internal matrix that enhances structural integrity, smooths application,
controls payout rate and provides a soft skin feel.
Benefits of Hectorite Clay

 Suspension of actives
 Uniform dosage of actives
 Prevention of nozzle blocking
 Reduced staining and whitening on fabrics
 Better dispersal of settled actives
 Improved stability
 Improved skin feel

2
Suspension of Actives
Antiperspirant emulsion formulas were created using either Bentone® 38V or silica at
8% with 20% Aluminium Chlorohydrate. Figure 1 shows the samples after 1 month at
40°C. Here the modified fumed Silicas all showed stability problems, whereas the
BENTONE® 38 V and fumed Silicas all provided good long term stability.
In Figure 2 we can see antiperspirant spray systems containing no additive, Bentone® 38V Silica 7nm Silica 12nm Silica 16nm
BENTONE® 38 V, BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® IPM V, 16 seconds

after shaking. The sample with no additive has the worst suspension. BENTONE® 38
V improves this, with BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V offering
superior suspension. After 1 minute the Aluminium Chlorohydrate in the samples Supplier 1 Supplier 2 Supplier 1 Supplier 2
Silica Silylate Silica Silylate Silica Dimethyl Silica Dimethyl
with no additive and BENTONE® 38 V has completely settled to the bottom of the Silylate Silylate
container, whereas the samples with BENTONE GEL® show good to almost complete
suspension even after 1 minute, see Figure 3. Optimal performance of any Figure 1. Stability of emulsions with Aluminum
Chlorohydrate
organoclay requires addition of chemical activator (typically Propylene Carbonate or
Ethanol/Water) and high energy homogenisation to fully delaminate individual clay
platelets. Adding BENTONE® 38 V powder and the desired chemical activator using
standard homogenisation does not work as efficiently as using the corresponding
BENTONE GEL®. Whenever using a BENTONE GEL® the experience and know-how of
Elementis Specialties garantees the formulator that the organoclay is fully dispersed.
BENTONE GEL® BENTONE GEL® BENTONE GEL®
No Additive BENTONE® 38 V BENTONE GEL® No Additive BENTONE® 38 V
VS-5PC V VS-5PC V IPM V
IPM V
Figure 2. Suspension of active in aerosol system Figure 3. Suspension of active in aerosol system
after 16 seconds after 1 minute
Less Coagulation
Figure 4. 0.28% Rheological additive in an
Antiperspirant Spray
2
Supplier 1 Supplier 2
Bentone® 38V Supplier 2
Silica Dimethyl Silica Dimethyl
Silica Silylate Silylate Silylate
Improved Color
Some antiperspirants leave a white mark on dark clothing, which is often caused by the antiperspirant active. The antiperspirant
formulation can be modified to avoid this effect, but it is also desirable to select a rheological additive which does not contribute to
any additional whitening.
Black fabric was treated with antiperspirant emulsions , which contained 8% rheological additive. Visual assessment of the whitening
intensities, shown in Figure 5, correlated well with the numerical differences for the CIE L*a*b* values found by using a portable
spectrophotometer.
No Additive Bentone® 38V Silica 7 nm Silica 12 nm Silica 16 nm
Supplier 1 Supplier 2 Supplier 1 Supplier 2

Silica Silylate Silica Silylate Silica Dimethyl Silica Dimethyl
Silylate Silylate
Figure 5. Black cotton fabric whitening of antiperspirant emulsion formulations with Aluminium Chlorohydrate
Everybody is aware of the common problem of armpit (axillary) staining of shirts. This is caused by two effects, firstly the acidic
nature of the antiperspirant active Aluminium Chlorohydrate in combination with the eccrine component of sweat causes a reaction
to occur, resulting in yellowing of fabric. This is generally not visible immediately. The Aluminium Chlorohydrate is extremely
effective at blocking perspiration, so this yellowing occurs only due to repeated wear, and therefore prolonged exposure to small
levels of perspiration in combination with the Aluminium salt. (1)
The second cause is due to the iron present in formulation ingredients, including Aluminium salts themselves, as well as in the
laundry detergent and wash water. The deposition of iron onto the fabric causes an almost instant yellowing effect which can be
followed by reactions with organic acids in skin secreations producing red/brown stains.(2) Hectorite clay only contains traces of iron,
whereas Bentonite clay contains high levels of iron. Hectorite clay and Hectorite organoclays have been shown to have less
antiperspirant stain potential than Bentonite products, both as raw materials and in combination with Aluminium Chlorohydrate.
While only one representative photograph is shown, each test was run in triplicate for statistical analysis of the measured CIE L*a*b*
values.
Water +
Aluminum Chlorohydrate
3 5% Bentonite in Water 5% Hectorite in Water

Aluminum Chlorohydrate + Aluminum Chlorohydrate
1. Orren, L. J., (1976), 'Stain Resistant Anti-Perspirant Composition', US Pat 3934004.
2. Klepak, P. B., and Petrillo, A. N., 'The Trouble with Stains', Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics, Vol. 68, Issue 7, p25-27, 1995.
AEROSOL AP WITH BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V KR9/085
A Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 2.00
(Elementis Specialties) (and) Propylene Carbonate
Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 10.00
(Dow Corning)
Xiameter pmx-200 Fluid 50cs Dimethicone 2.00
(Dow Corning)
SDA 40B, 200 Alcohol 0.50
B Reach 501 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 10.00
(Summit Reheis)
C Propellant 75.50
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous
2. Add phase “B” to phase “A”.
3. Fill and charge with phase “C”.
ANHYDROUS ROLL-ON ANTIPERSPIRANT KR5/139

A Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 3.00
Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 69.00
(Dow Corning)
Xiameter pmx-200 Fluid 50cs Dimethicone 5.00
(Dow Corning)
SDA 40B, 200 Alcohol 2.00
B Reach 501 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 20.00
(Summit Reheis)
C Fragrance 1.00
Procedure:
1. Thoroughly combine phase “A” using a Silverson homogenizer.
2. Switch to low speed propeller mixing.
3. Add phase “B” to phase “A”.
4. Add phase “C” to phase “A/B” and mix until uniform.
4
DRY ANTIPERSPIRANT STICK TS-289
A Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 39.70
(Dow Corning)
B Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 22.00
Lexemul 561 (Inolex) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 2.00
C47-057 (Sun Chemical) Titanium Dioxide 0.20
C Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 10.00
D Reach 501 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 25.00
(Summit Reheis)
E Fragrance 0.10
Procedure:
1. Thoroughly combine phase “A” using a Silverson homogenizer.
2. Switch to low speed propeller mixing.
3. Add phase B to phase “A”.
4. Add phase C to phase “A/B” and mix until uniform.
5
Solutions for Sun Care
Sunscreen systems are subject to extreme environmental conditions, yet must consistently deliver the active ingredient to
provide uniform protection. Predictable rheology and heat stability are crucial to formulators.
Bentone® clay technology offers multiple benefits for today’s sun care formulations beyond just thickening. Data has
proven its benefits for both formulators and consumers, such as improved product physical stability and rheological
properties, enhanced SPF protection and water resistance and modified product texture with good spreadability.
Improving product application properties is a formulation need directly related to product performance. Rheoluxe®
rheology modifiers can help control the aesthetics of sunscreen emulsions while providing uniform application with good
spreadability.
Benefits of Bentone Gel and Rheoluxe

The Bentone Gel® products are optimally dispersed and activated pre-
dispersions of hectorite organoclays. They are more suited for
sunscreen formulations than the organoclay powders due to ease of
use and optimal performance results. Bentone Gel® is typically
comprised of one or more organic solvents, a hectorite organoclay
(Bentone® 38 VCG or Bentone® 27 V CG) and an organic activator. A
wide range of Bentone Gel® products made from various commonly
used cosmetic oils, esters and solvents can be selected based on each
formulation need.
The Rheoluxe® family of rheology modifiers were designed specifically

for personal care applications. They provide an exceptional sensory
profile with multifunctional benefits such as transfer resistance and
increased film thickness. Rheoluxe is ideally suited for emulsion based
sun care products.
6
Improved application
When an emulsion is applied to the sin, it will ideally create a uniform layer covering the skin surface as shown below.
After application, many emulsions begin to pool in valleys, leaving an uneven film on the skin surface. This can be
eliminated by the addition of Bentone® hectorite clay products. Bentone® products exhibit shear thinning and thixotropic
flow behavior. At low shear rates, the hectorite platelets are in a three-dimensional gel network structure, thus creating a
high viscosity medium. With the increase in shear rate, the structure is disturbed and the platelets orientate in the
direction of flow, causing a decrease in viscosity. On removal of shear, the reformation of the gel structure occurs at a
reduced rate than the deformation, thus producing a system with thixotropic flow behaviour. The thixotropic flow provided
by Bentone® hectorite clay products create a uniform layer of protection on the surface of the skin.
For product formulation and processing, Bentone® technology helps to stabilize products, even at elevated temperatures.
For sunscreens with inorganic actives, it efficiently suspends the particulates. It provides oil and aqueous phase viscosity
building, rheology modification and thixotropic flow. Its rheological properties allow the sunscreen manufacturers to create
products giving thick and even skin coverage. Furthermore, because of the use of Bentone® rheological additives,
formulators may achieve enhanced SPF values and SPF water resistance.
7
ORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® EUG V KR7/184
A Bentone® Gel EUG V Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 3.00
Tegosoft CT Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4.00
(Evonik)
Eutanol G (BASF) Octyldodecanol 2.50
B Xiameter pmx-0345 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 10.00
(Dow Corning)
Parsol MCX (DSM Nutritional) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 5.50
Multiwax W-835 (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 3.00
Tegosoft CN (Evonik) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2.00
Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid Lauryl PEG/PPG-15/15 Methicone 2.00
(Dow Corning)
Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) Butyl methoxybenzoylmethane 1.60
C Deionized Water Water 57.40
Glycerin 7.00
Sodium Chloride 2.00
D Preservative qs
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Warm to 40°C.
2. Add phase “B” to phase A and heat to 75°C with propeller mixing.
3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C.
4. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase “C” to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.
5. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling.
6. Add phase “D” to batch.
7. Mix until uniform.
ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V KR8/005

A Bentone® Gel Tn V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite 3.00
Cosmowax EM5483 PAST (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 7.50
Eusolex 2292 (Merck) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 7.50
Cithrol GMS A/S PAST (Croda) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 7.00
Tegosoft CT (Evonik) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.00
Tegosoft TN (Evonik) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00
Eusolex 4360 (Merck) Benzophenone-3 3.00
B Deionized Water Water 58.10
Propylene Glycol 4.00
Preservative qs
Procedure:
1. Heat phase A to 75°C under silverson mixer.
2. Heat phase B to 75°C with propeller mixing.
3. Slowly add phase “B” to phase “A” with silverson mixing. Mix for 20 minutes.
4. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling. 8
5. Cool to 30°C.
INORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® IHD V KR8/104
A Bentone® Gel IHD V Isohexadecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 8.00
Tegosoft OS (Evonik) Ethylhexyl Stearate 13.50
Fancol® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Isohexadecane 8.00
Tegosoft M (Evonik) Isopropyl Myristate 5.00
Abil EM90 (Evonik) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10-1 Dimethicone 1.80
Isolan GO33 (Evonik) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate 1.75
B NANOX™ 200 (Elementis Specialties) Zinc Oxide 13.50
T805 (Evonik) Titanium Dioxide 2.35
Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 0.75
D Butylene Glycol 3.00
Preservative qs
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Heat to 75°C.
2. Add phase “B” to phase A under silverson homogenization. Hold temperature at 75°C.
3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C.
4. Add phase “D” to phase “C”.
5. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase C/D to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.
7. Cool to 30°C.
INORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V KR8/117

A Bentone® Gel TN V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite 10.00
Tego Alkanol 1618 (Evonik) Cetearyl Alcohol 1.20
Paratexin P (Azelis) Propylparaben 0.10
B NANOX™ 200 (Elementis Specialties) Zinc Oxide 5.50
T805 (Evonik) Titanium Dioxide 2.50
Bentone® LT (Elementis Specialties) Hectorite (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.24
D Propylene Glycol 4.00
Paratexin M (Azelis) Methylparaben 0.10
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Heat to 75°C.
2. Add phase “B” to phase “A” under silverson homogenization. Hold temperature at 75°C.
3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C. Mix until Bentone LT is completely dispersed.
4. Add phase “D” to phase “C”.
5. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase “C/D” to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.
7. Cool to 30°C.
ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® PTIS V KR9/096
A Bentone® Gel PTIS V Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (and) Disteardimonium 3.00
(Elementis Specialties) Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
Cosmowax EM5483 PAST (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 7.50
Eusolex 2292 (Merck) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate (and) BHT 7.50
Eusolext 4360 (Merck) Benzophenone-3 3.00
Preservative qs
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” and heat to 75°C.
2. Combine phase “B” and heat to 75°C.
3. Using silverson, slowly add phase B to phase “A”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes.
5. Cool to 30°C.
DAILY UV PROTECTING LOTION S-1000-01

A KF-6038 (Shin Etsu) Lauryl PEG-9 Polymethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone 3.00
SPD-T5 (Shin Etsu) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) 20.00
Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
(and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Stearic Acid
SPD-Z5 (Shin Etsu) Zinc Oxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 10.00
Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
(and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl
Dimethicone
®
FANCOL Abyshea (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii 2.00
(Shea Butter) Extract
Beeswax Cera Alba (Beeswax) 1.00
Finsolv TN (Innospec) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 8.00
Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50
Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic 1.00
Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycerin Glycerin 3.00
®
C Rheoluxe 8015 (Elementis Specialties) PEG/PPG-450/50 Trimthylolpropane Dodecyl Ether 1.50
Procedure:
1. Heat phase A ingredients to 60°C with propeller mixing.
2. Combine phase B ingredients and mix until uniform. Heat phase B to 60°C,
3. Very slowly, add phase B to phase A with moderate speed propeller mixing. 10
4. Begin cooling. Add phase C to main batch with propeller mixing.
5. Cool to room temperature under slow sweep mixing.
Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20rpm: 28,000cps

Hair Care Technology
Hair is an important part of personal appearance, helping to define style and attractiveness. The processes used to create
hair styles are often damaging leading to split ends, frizzy hair and breakage. Harsh surfactants strip away essential lipids,
heat can melt the internal structure, straightening, bleaching and perming weakens hair and the mechanical force of
brushing can lift the cuticle. Protective and repairative products are necessary to keep hair healthy.
Many claims are being made to demonstrate the effectiveness of hair care products. These include aspects like
manageability of the hair, protection, strengthening of the hair fibers and anti-breaking properties. Furthermore a visible
benefit like the enhancement of the natural shine of the hair is important to achieve customer satisfaction. Elementis
offers products proven to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair.
Meeting and making claims: Needs vs Elementis Specialties’

Benefits Light feeling, non-greasy sensorial
 Bentone® hydrophilic and organophilic clays

 Rheoluxe® associative thickeners
 Fancor® Abyssinian Oil
Deep conditioning of hair to protect and restore healthy attributes
 Meadowquat® HG
 Fancorsil® LIM
 Fancor® Abyssinian Oil
Perfuming - long lasting fragrance
 Meadowquat® HG
Protection of color
 Meadowquat® HG
 Fancorsil® LIM
11
Hair Manageability
Most conditioning products claim to increase the manageability
and combability of the hair due to lubrication and conditioning
effect of the hair fibers. Improving the combability of the hair is
perceived as the hair being in better condition. Better combability
decreases the mechanical damage on the hair due to reduced
combability force needed to untangle the hair, therefore, the
combability of hair after treatment with conditioning agents
provides an indicator if the effectiveness of the treatment is
sufficient.
To comb untreated Mulatto hair it is necessary to use almost 2000

gmf frictional force due to its kinky structure. FANCOR®
Abyssinian Oil effectively increased the combability by reducing
the needed force down to 1.5 % of the force initially needed for
untreated Mulatto Hair.
Single bleached Caucasian Hair, not treated with FANCOR®

Abyssinian Oil, offers an average of needed frictional force for
combing between 100 - 120 gmf declared by TRI Princeton based
on historical data. Compared to this data TRI Princeton treated
Caucasian Hair with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil was able to reduce
the needed force down to 12 gmf, a reduction of 88 %.
Treatment of both Mulatto and Caucasian Hair with FANCOR®

Abyssinian Oil has a significant positive effect for conditioning and
a better manageability of the hair.
Hair Shine
The shine of the hair is a very highly appreciated attribute of healthy-looking hair and is often a claim of hair care products.
FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil is a natural shine enhancer. It can be used as a natural replacement to synthetic oils like silicones in Hair
Care products where shine and luster is needed. Shine can be quantified by the intensity of light reflected from a curved hair
surface. A narrow distribution of light reflection indicates a higher intensity of shine. The SAMBA device by Bossa Nova was used to
quantify the shine enhancement.
12
Hair Repair and Reconstruction
FANCORSIL® LIM facilitates the repair of the hair fiber’s outer surface to achieve natural realignment of the cuticular plates.
When treated with a solution of 5% FANCORSIL® LIM –1, cuticle repair is clearly evident.
Control: damaged hair fiber Test: damaged hair fiber treated with LIM-1
FANCORSIL® LIM has also been shown to realign

the internal hair structure.
Because of it’s ability to penetrate the hair fiber, LIM is capable of improving hair strength. The effect was measured in all
types of hair treatments including shampoos, conditioning treatments, hair relaxers and hair color. In each case, the
addition of FANCORSIL® LIM improved the strength of the hair fiber, significantly increasing the force needed to break the
hair. When compared to Dimethicone Copolyol (DMC), the strength of unprocessed hair was improved by 28%.
13
Prevention of Damage
When applied to hair at a level as low as 1%, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 prevents damage and repairs damaged hair. With its
long-chain fatty acids and unique diamido configuration, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 has the ability to repair hair that has been
severely damaged by extreme heat and harsh chemicals. The operative factors responsible for this product’s superior
conditioning abilities are the unsaturated fatty acids that form the backbone of this material.
Virgin brown hair tresses were subject to heat damage by passing a pressing comb over each tress 80 times at 110°C.
Tresses were treated with a solution of 1% MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 and blotted dry before the hot comb treatment. In the
photos below, it can be seen that the hair treated with MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 prevents damage.
Improved Hair Color Durability

MEADOWQUAT® HG-70, a mild diamido-lipid-rich quaternium nitrogen ingredient for personal care products, is very effective not
only in the conditioning process but also in its ability to sustain hair color and prevent wash-out. MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 is derived
from a natural source and is functionally substantive, biodegradable, and stable in hydrogen peroxide (hair color developers) and
sodium hydroxide (relaxers). When incorporated into hair color at a level of 2% to 3%, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 enhances color
intensity and significantly improves durability.
Hair color durability after 20 washings
14
5
COLOR CARE SHAMPOO H-1008-01

A Deionized Water Water 55.55
Dissolvine Na2 (Akzo Nobel) Disodium EDTA 0.10
Panthenol 0.10
B Standapol ES-2 (BASF) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 23.00
Tegobetaine F50 (Evonik) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 7.50
Plantacare 818 (BASF) Coco-Glucoside 5.00
Ninol M10 (Stepan) Cocamide MIPA 1.50
FANCORSIL® LIM-1 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate 2.00
Crothix (Croda) PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate 1.00
Euperlan PK4000 (BASF) Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and) 2.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
C MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate 2.00
(Elementis Specialties)
D Troycare BC04 (Troy Corp) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) 0.05
Methylisothiazolinone
Fresh Floral Honeydew Fragrance Fragrance 0.20
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C with propeller mixing.
2. Add phase “B” ingredients to to phase “A” one at a timewith propeller mixing.
3. Cool to 40°C with mixing.
4. Add phase “C” to batch
5. Add phase D to batch and cool to ambient temperature
Viscosity: RV #5 @ 50rpm 3,000—5,000cps
pH: 4.8—5.2
HAIR GLOSSING SERUM H-1003-01

A FANCORSIL® A (Elementis Specialties) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone 57.00
Silsoft 034 (Momentive Silicones) Caprylyl Methicone 17.00
FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 2.00
Xiameter-0245 Fluid (Dow Corning) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 23.00
Neo Heliopan AV (Symrise) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 1.00
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix well after each addition.
2. Package as desired.
15
6
COLOR CARE DAILY CONDITIONER H-1007-01

Butylene Glycol 2.50
Spectrastat (Inolex) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) 0.90
Glycerin
Calcium Pantothenate (BASF) 0.20
B Incroquat Behenyl TMS PA (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate 5.00
Isopropyl Palmitate 1.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (Croda) 1.50
FANCORSIL® LIM-2 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethicone Meadowfoamate 1.00
Xiameter-0245 Fluid (Dow Corning) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 2.00
C MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium 1.00
(Elementis Specialties) Methosulfate
Procedure:
2. Heat phase “B” to 80°C and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing.
4. Add phase “C” to batch.
5. Cool to 30°C. Package as desired.
Viscosity: RV T-D @ 20 rpm 10,500—12,500cps

pH: 5.8—6.2
NOURISHING HAIR OIL H-1004-01

A FANCOL® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane 84.80
FANCORSIL® A (Elementis Specialties) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone 10.00
Anti-Aging Hair Complex Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated 4.00
(Elementis Specialties) Polyisobutene (and) PEG-2
Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate
(and) Oleas Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
Neo Heliopan AV (Symrise) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate 1.00
Fresh Floral Honeydew Fragrance Fragrance 0.20
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix well after each addition
2. Package as desired.
16
ANTI-AGING CONDITIONER H-1002-01
Kerabase (Inolex) Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicamidopropyl 8.00
Dimethylamine (and) Polyester-11 (and)
Aspartic Acid (and) EDTA
Panthenol (BASF) 0.50
B FANCOL ®POLYISO ®250-CG Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 2.00
C Spectrastat (Inolex) Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) 1.00
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glycerin
FANCORSIL® LIM-2 Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate 1.00
Procedure:
1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix with moderate speed propeller mixing. Heat to 80-85°C and hold for 10-15 minutes
with mixing. Keep vessel covered.
2. Combine phase “B” and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing.
3. Begin cooling.
4. At 60°C, add phase “C” ingredients to batch.
5. Cool to 30°C with moderate speed propeller mixing.
LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH HEAT PROTECTION H-1006-01

Varisoft BT-85 (Evonik) Behentrimonium Chloride 1.50
FANCORSIL® LIM-1 Dimehticone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate 1.00
Panthenol (BASF) 0.10
B Troycare BD55 (Troy Corp) DMDM Hydantoin 0.30
Troycare FL10 (Troy Corp) Iodoopropynyl Butylcarbamate 0.10
Procedure:
2. Cool to 40°C with continued mixing.
3. Add phase B to phase “A” with moderate speed propeller mixing,.
4. Cool to ambient Temperature.
Viscosity: RV #3 @ 20rpm 1,000—1,500cps

pH: 4.3—4.7
RESTORATIVE HAIR MASK H-1005-01
Calcium Pantothenate (BASF) 0.20
Glycerin 2.00
Varisoft BT85 (Evonik) Behentrimonium Chloride 2.25
B Incroquat Behenyl TMS PA (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate 3.00
Polawax NF (Croda) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 1.00
Botanisil DM-90 (Botanigenics) Dimethicone 1.00
FANCORSIL® LIM-2 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate 1.00
Silsoft 034 (Momentive Silicones) Caprylyl Methicone 2.00
C Troycare BD55 (Troy Corp) DMDM Hydantoin 0.30
Troycare FL10 (Troy Corp) Iodoopropynyl Butylcarbamate 0.10
Procedure:
2. Heat phase “B” to 80°C and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing.
4. Add phase “C” to batch.
5. Cool to 30°C. Package as desired.
Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20 rpm 50,000—60,000cps

pH: 4.6—5.0
18
Color Cosmetics Technologies
The category of color cosmetics covers a wide range of product types, anything that contains pigment, but regardless the form, they
must deliver uniform color, apply easily and remain stable under various conditions.
Bentone Gel® systems provide a stable matrix to suspend pigments, improve stability and flow properties of cosmetics. The solvent
system in Bentone Gels® provide emolliency, aid in pigment wetting, may provide gloss and improved aesthetics. A variety of Ben-
tone Gel® systems are available to meet your formulation needs.
Natural emollients such as Fancor Abyssinian Oil® and Fancor ® Meadowfoam Seed Oil provide improved skin feel, enhanced pig-
ment wetting and imparts a natural luster to the skin.
Benefits of Bentone Gel®

 Suspension of pigments
 Improves stability and viscosity
 Improves application
 Thermostable viscosity control
 Enhances feel properties
19
Pigment Dispersion
BENTONE GEL® PTIS V offers a lubricating emollient effect, improved
pigment dispersion and improved coverage
Pigment dispersion Pigment dispersion with

without Bentone Gel Bentone Gel PTIS V
Pigment Suspension
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) obtained from Sun Chemicals was suspended in Abyssinian oil, Abyssinian oil/Castor oil 50:50 blend and Cas-
tor oil at a concentration of 30% (w/w). The resultant appearance of the pigment dispersion can be observed below.
The results of the viscosity studies help explain the improved dispersion of
(TiO2) in the Abyssinian oil compared to castor oil. As can be seen in the follow-
ing chart and graph, and as expected the castor oil had a higher initial viscosity
than did Abyssinian oil and in both cases the addition of the pigment increased
the viscosity of the system. However, in the case of castor oil the viscosity con-
tinued to increase as the dispersion sat at room temperature for 24 hours in
contrast to the Abyssinian oil dispersion which decreased in viscosity over the
same time period. This decrease in viscosity for the Abyssinian oil dispersion
reflects the improved dispersion properties which generates a stable, small
particle size, even distribution of pigment.
Abyssinian oil Abyssinian/ Castor oil
Castor 50:50 blend
20
CC CREAM MULTIFUNCTIONAL HYDRATOR C-1001-01
Glycerin 2.00
®
B BENTONE GEL ABO V (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium 6.45
Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
Imwittor 600 (Sasol) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 3.00
Neo Heliopan Type AV Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50
Vitamin E Acetate Tocpheryl Acetate 0.10
AFRICAN HYDRATION COMPLEX Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Crambe 3.00
(Elementis Specialties) Abyssinica Seed Oil, (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea
Butter) (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
(and) Lecithin
Wickenol 151 (Alzo) Isononyl Isononanoate 4.50
Crodamol ISNP-LQ (Croda) Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4.50
®
C FANCOR ABYSSINIAN OIL Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 6.00
Unipure Black LC989 (Sensient) Iron Oxides 0.75
Unipure Red LC381 (Sensient) Iron Oxides 1.40
Unipure Yellow LC182 (Sensient) Iron Oxides 2.35
Unipure White (Sensient) Iron Oxides 2.50
D Tyrostat (Lucas Meyer) Rumex Occidentalis Extract 1.00
Exo-T (Lucas Meyer) Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate 2.00
Euxyl K701 (Shulke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) 1.00
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Procedure:
1. Premix Part A and Part B separately and heat to each 80-85°C.
2. Add Part A into Part B with dispermat for 10 minutes to form the emulsion.
3. Premix Part C and slowly add into Part A & B while cooling to 50°C-55°C.
4. Transfer to Silverson Homogenizer for 1-3 minus, until the pigments fully dispersed.
5. Transfer to a propeller mixer and cool down to below 40°C.
6. Add Part D ingredients to the batch and mix well.
Viscosity: 13,000cps (RV Spindle T-E, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)
21
LIGHT MOISTURIZING BB CREAM WITH SPF 30++ BY 3129-92
A BENTONE GEL® VS-5 PC V Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hedtorite 5.60
THIXCIN® R (Elementis Specialties) Trihydroxystearin 1.50
Abil EM90 (Evonik) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 3.50
KF6017 (Shin Etsu) PEG-10 Dimethicone 2.00
FANCOL® POLYISO® 275 CG Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 1.50
ANTI-AGING SKIN COMPLEX Meadowfoam Estolide (and) Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone 3.00
(Elementis Specialties) (and) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Carthamus
Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil
Unsaponifiables (and) Beta-Sitosterol
FANCOR® ABYSSINIAN OIL (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 3.00
Beeswax (Strahl & Pitsch) 1.00
Wickenol 151 (Alzo Inc) Isononyl Isononanoate 4.50
Crodamol ISNP-LQ (Croda) Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4.50
NANOX 200 (Elementis Specialties) Zinc Oxide 1.65
B Water 37.23
Glycerin 3.00
Tween 20 (Croda) Polysorbate 20 2.00
Butylene Glycol 3.00
C TNP50T7 (Kobo) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) 10.00
Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Methicone 6.00
FAS70USI-E (Kobo) Titanium Dioxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
(and) Tocopherol Acetate
FAS55ERSI-E (Kobo) Iron Oxides [C.I. 77491] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 0.81
FAS50EYSI-E (Kobo) Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 3.26
FAS60EBSI-E (Kobo) Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 0.10
D Preservative qs
Procedure:
1. Premix Part A and Part B separately and heat to each 75°C.
2. Add Part B into Part A with higher share for 10-15 minutes.
3. Premix Part C and slowly add into Part A & B and cool down to 50°C-55°C.
4. Transfer to Silverson Homogenizer for 1-3 minus, until the pigments fully dispersed
5. Transfer to a propeller mixer and cool down to below 40°C.
6. Add Part D to the batch and mix well.
22
Viscosity: 18300 cps (RV Spindle #6, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)
OIL BASED EYE SHADOW C-2000-02
®
A FANCOL ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane 43.80
BENTONE GEL® ISD V (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Chloride (and) 10.00
Propylene Carbonate
Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 10.00
Ozokerite 8.00
Carnauba Wax 5.00
Beeswax 2.00
Propylparaben 0.20
B SunPrizma Concord Crush (Sun Chemical) Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide 10.00
Timiron Pearl Flake (EMD) Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide 5.00
Nylon-12 1.00
®
C Rheoluxe 880 (Elementis Specialties) Bis-C16-20 Isoalkoxy TMHDI/PEG-90 Copolymer 5.00
Procedure:
1. Combine Phase A and heat to 75-80°C.
2. Mix Phase A togther using a Silverson Homogeniser.
3. Add Phase B and continue to mix for 15 minutes.
4. Transfer product to a stirrer.
5. Add Phase C at 1000rpm.
6. Increase speed to 2000rpm and mix for 10 minutes.
7. Pour off and allow to cool.
MOISTURIZING CREAM LIPSTICK C-1000-01

A Red 6 Lake CI 15850:2 Water 6.00
Emcon® CO (Elementis Specialties) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 22.85
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Koster Keunen) 4.00
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Koster Keunen) 6.30
Cera Alba (Beeswax) Strahl & Pitsch 2.00
Multiwax 180-W (Sonneborn) Microcrystalline Wax 5.60
BENTONE GEL® TN-V (Elementis Specialties) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite 10.00
(and) Propylene Carbonate
B Talc (US Cosmetics) 5.00
Mica S-12 (Kobo) 2.00
Meadowestolide® (Elementis Specialties) Meadowfoam Estolide 3.00
Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) 0.50
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Procedure:
1. Premix Red 6 Lake with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil until pigment is completely wetted and dispersed with no agglomerations.
2. Heat Phase B to 85°C and mix until homogeneous.
3. At 85°C combine pigment premix Phase A and Phase B until thoroughly uniform.
4. Cool to 65°C and fill into molds or appropriate packaging.
LONG WEAR MASCARA KR10/22
A Water 52.75
BENTONE® LT (Elementis Specialties) Hectorite (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.75
FANCORSIL® LIM-1 (Elementis Specialties) Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate 3.00
B Luviskol VA64 (BASF) VP/VA Copolymer 8.00
Triethanolamine Triethanolamine 1.00
Preservative qs
C FANCOL® POLYISO® 275-CG Hydrogentated Polyisobutene 2.00
Sunchroma Black Iron Oxide (Sun Chemicals) Irox Oxides 6.00
Copernicia (Carnauba) Wax (Koster Keunen) 5.00
Beeswax (Azelis) 5.00
Cutina MD (BASF) Glyceryl Stearate 5.00
Snow White Pet USP (Calumet) Petrolatum 4.00
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Koster Keunen) 3.00
Stearic Acid 2.00
Tween 20 (Croda) Polysorbate 20 2.50
Procedure:
1. Premix Red 6 Lake with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil until pigment is completely wetted and dispersed with no agglomerations.
2. Heat Phase B to 85°C and mix until homogeneous.
3. At 85°C combine pigment premix Phase A and Phase B until thoroughly uniform.
4. Cool to 65°C and fill into molds or appropriate packaging.
LIP GLOSS KR9/135B

A BENTONE GEL® ABO V (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium 3.50
Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
MEADOWESTOLIDE® (Elementis Specialties) Meadowfoam Estolide 3.00
Snow White Pet (Calumet) Petrolatum 12.90
Colorona Red Brown (EMD) Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide 7.50
Syncrowax HGLC (Croda) C18-36 Acid Triglyceride 2.00
Iron Oxide Yellow Iron Oxides 0.30
Preservative qs
B FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 64.60
Red 6 Lake (Sun Chemicals) 0.60
Red 7 Lake (Sun Chemicals) 0.60
Procedure:
1. Heat Phase A to 85°C and mix. 24
2. Add premixed Phase B and mix.
3. Cool to 55°C and fill.
The information in this publication is, to the best
of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since
the conditions of use are beyond our control, no
warranty is given or to be implied in respect of
such information. In every case, caution must be
exercised to avoid violation or infringement of
statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a
third party. We are, at all time, willing to study
customers’ specific outlets involving our products
in order to enable their most effective use.
©Copyright 2015, Elementis Specialties, Inc.
All rights reserved.
Copying and/or downloading of this document or

information therein for republication is not
allowed unless prior written agreement is
obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.
For more details please contact:

AMERICAS Elementis Specialties
469 Old Trenton Road
East Windsor
New Jersey 08512
Tel: +1.609.443 2500
Fax: +1.609.443.2446
EUROPE Elementis GmbH

Stolberger Strasse 370
50933 Cologne
Germany
Tel: +49.221.2923.2000
Fax: +49.221.2923.2011 1-2015

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Benefits of Hectorite Clay

 Uniform dosage of actives

 Prevention of nozzle blocking

 Reduced staining and whitening on fabrics

 Better dispersal of settled actives

 Improved skin feel

BENTONE® 38 V, BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® IPM V, 16 seconds

No Additive Bentone® 38V Silica 7 nm Silica 12 nm Silica 16 nm

Supplier 1 Supplier 2 Supplier 1 Supplier 2

3 5% Bentonite in Water 5% Hectorite in Water

1. Orren, L. J., (1976), 'Stain Resistant Anti-Perspirant Composition', US Pat 3934004.

ANHYDROUS ROLL-ON ANTIPERSPIRANT KR5/139

Benefits of Bentone Gel and Rheoluxe

The Rheoluxe® family of rheology modifiers were designed specifically

ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V KR8/005

INORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V KR8/117

DAILY UV PROTECTING LOTION S-1000-01

Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20rpm: 28,000cps

Meeting and making claims: Needs vs Elementis Specialties’

 Bentone® hydrophilic and organophilic clays

To comb untreated Mulatto hair it is necessary to use almost 2000

Single bleached Caucasian Hair, not treated with FANCOR®

Treatment of both Mulatto and Caucasian Hair with FANCOR®

FANCORSIL® LIM has also been shown to realign

Improved Hair Color Durability

Hair color durability after 20 washings

COLOR CARE SHAMPOO H-1008-01

HAIR GLOSSING SERUM H-1003-01

COLOR CARE DAILY CONDITIONER H-1007-01

Viscosity: RV T-D @ 20 rpm 10,500—12,500cps

NOURISHING HAIR OIL H-1004-01

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH HEAT PROTECTION H-1006-01

Viscosity: RV #3 @ 20rpm 1,000—1,500cps

Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20 rpm 50,000—60,000cps

Benefits of Bentone Gel®

 Improves stability and viscosity

 Thermostable viscosity control

 Enhances feel properties

Pigment dispersion Pigment dispersion with

Viscosity: 13,000cps (RV Spindle T-E, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)

MOISTURIZING CREAM LIPSTICK C-1000-01

LIP GLOSS KR9/135B

Copying and/or downloading of this document or

For more details please contact:

EUROPE Elementis GmbH

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