Sicc Patternmakingengineering PDF
Sicc Patternmakingengineering PDF
Sicc Patternmakingengineering PDF
\\I , •
Certificate course
-Material
-Quality control
-Material and related science
-Adhesives
-Pattern making and engineering
-Shoe costing
-Grading
PATTERN MAKING
Table of Content
3. Mean Form 6
4. Standard Plans 8
7. Model Plan 12
8. Detail Patterns 13
9. Lining Construction 14
4 Standardizat
1. Patterns making process starts after the product idea has been
selected and the product conception developed (last, materials,
manufacturing process, etc.)
2. Pattern making does not include ideas research or creation.
The pattern maker shall respect the product idea/style as it
has been produced by the designer.
3. The pattern maker shall give consideration to the following
aspects:
3.1 respect of the product idea even if the idea does not
correspond to the pattern maker's personal t~ste.
3.2 aesthetics
3.3 foot comfort
not to hurt and not to compress the foot still
having the shoe well holding on the foot
3.4 accuracy
3.5 facilitating the manufacturing process
3.6 providing clear and complete specifications
3.7 material economy
3.8 cleanliness, neatness
4• The pattern maker shall have:
4.1 a methodic mind
4 2 an inventive mind not to mode ideas but t be
shoe manufacturing.
easy
design on it and easy to flatten, producing a clean work
without soiling the lasts. the ideal width is 3/4"
or 19 mm.
The method
3. Last Bottom Copy
3.3 Removing the last bottom copy from toe toward backpart.
3.6 Determining and tracing the last insole copy axis using,
when feasible, tracing paper
4 Trac a
4.10 Removing the last copy (both sides) from toe towards
backpart
4.12 Cutting out the last copy (one side after the other).
1.1 The shoe last inside side is different from the outside
and as a result the corresponding last copies are also
different. Very often the outside length will be shorter
than the inside, the forepart width will be greater on the
outside than on the inside and the top and bottom lines
will show different curves.
1.4 As a result the mean form will be similar to one side last
copy. However it will present lines and areas proper to
each of the two sides of the last and will be used to
design patterns matching each of the said sides.
2.2 2 of the
What
advisable to determine the back mean line and make the
corresponding template in the same manner as for the front
line.
4.2 Utilizing the mean line as new front line the inside last
copy outline is traced while pivoted on the mean line to
keep the same width.
4.4 All inside and outside outlines including the back line
are then smoothed to eliminate irregularities.
1. Definition General
1.2 A standard plan shall serve for all models which can be
accommodated with the said plan.
4.1 Different standard plans might be needed for the same last
if specific models are produced or if specific materials
are used or if the manufacturing process changes, examples:
i) standard plan suitable for plain vamp models might
not fit models with apron and mudguard
geome because
used as the base for plan construction. However for high
upper shoes up to the ankle level and higher there is
for a geometrical construct to the
V. MODEL DESIGN ON THE LAST
(see diagram p. 69)
1. After a model has been drawn on the last the problem is to transfer
the lines from tridimensional object on to a plan.
1. To make the model plan, the pre established standard plan outline
is reproduced on a piece of cartolina as well as any other existing
standard lines or points which could be needed. The model lines
are then drawn on the plan. This can be done directly or thru
the transfer of the model lines already drawn on the last as
mentioned earlier.
4. The model line~ can be drawn with a pencil or a pen, they can also
be cut with a well sharpened knife. Cutting the lines makes the
work more accurate and provides an easy way to transfer the model
lines in view of producing detail patterns.
5. If the cutting method is used one has to make sure that all curves
are cut, that no cut will cross the border of the plan and that
reasonable space between s t
VIII. DETAIL PATTERNS
(see diagrams pp. 74,76,78,82,83,85,87,90,92,93,95,97,99,101)
2.2 Deadening
inclined towards the last bottom. As a result
the upper will have the tendency to stand up
when applied on the last and the perimeter of
the lasting margin will be shorter.
2.3 Springing
2.4 Blocking
2.4.1 Some models having the upper part very high on the
instep can not be accommodated with pivoting only.
In that case the pattern will be made with partial
pivoting or without pivoting at all but the cut
upper component will go through the operation of
blocking which consist in forming the material by
means of pressure and heat so that it will take
the required shape.
2 6
and apron, it is always preferable to open the
mudguard pattern so that when it is assembled to
the apron the upper will be shaped in such a way
that the lasting operation will be facilitated due
to the removal of material excess. This will also
prevent the apron from falling down when subjected
to the lasting operation strain.
1. Pattern making does not concern only the upper but also the
bottom or soling components. Those components are insole,
insole reinforcement, outsole, heel, heel cover and sock.
3.5 Heel cover heel cover for ladies shoe can be made
relatively easily using the taping method. However, it
is necessary after the original pattern has been estab-
lished to check it and bring the necessary modifications.
3.6.2 covering the back part and the waist part of the
insole
-
XIV. STANDARDIZATION IN PATTERN MAKING
1.1 Identification
' A
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t and most accurate way to mark the lines is:
tapping method
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the toe & at the back seat line) - stand side by side in the
cuts: 10 mm flat areas A
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on the concavity and the in convex areas B
- overl.ap one each other in
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mean form so that:
copy toe point be in contact with the vertical line
copy forepart line be tangent to the horizontal line
height point be coinciding with the horizontal line
of the last copy
INSTEP
point draw a straight line tangent to the last
BACKLINE
tightening point draw a curve joining the back line
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PIVOTING PROCESS ORIGINAL PATTERN
two sides of the apron overlap
when positioned side by side
PIVOTING PROCESS EXAMPLE A
point
PIVOTING PROCESS EXAMPLE B
pivoting point
pivoting point
PIVOTING PROCESS EXAMPLE D
pivoting point
'·.
90°
is extended
When high upper shoes and boots of all kinds have to be developed
the last copies are not sufficient to produce the standard and
model Plans. There is need to design a geometrical construction to
be used as a base to develop the patterns of the upper top. Several
methods exist to design these constructions.
1) Determine the distance between the back line and the leg axis
i) on the last bottom trace the symmetry axis of the
back part
ii) on this axis, from the last back part, mark a point
representing 23% of the last size expressed in mm
iii) project that distance on both side of the last by
tracing a line perpendicular to the axis
iv) measure the distance between the two points around the
bottom last
v) divide this measure by 2
on each side of
joint girth]
n) at 7 draw the front line J parallel to Y
o) draw the top line L parallel to X
i} the position of line varies in relation to
the
Method of Construction
i) if 7 - 8 is used:
0
on G from 8 mark 9 = 5 mm
(7 - 9 represents the width of the upper at ankle level)
0
on L mark 10 - 11 = distance 7-8 increased by 2.Smm
for each cm of height of the upper above the G line
(10-11 represent the width of the upper at its top level)
0
trace the construction back line joining 0 - 9 - 11.
ii) if 7 - 6 is used:
0
on L mark 10 - 11 = distance 7-6 increased by
1 mm for each cm of height of the upper above the
G line
(10 - 10 represents the width of the upper at
top level)
trace the construction back line j~~-£4--U~
the upper than
width
need
before being considered as the
for a given last and a specific heel
12
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VELDTSCHOEN TYPE SHOE MODEL PLAN
--
outward direction of the lasting
the back part.
SHOE MODEL PLAN
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upper and the insole are meant to coincide
operation.
MOCASSIN STYLE A- COPY FROM THE LAST
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COMPONENT CONSTRUCTION - LXV HEEL
~--- ---
heel top
+--11-T--
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--- 1!1(2)
::::(3)
- - ( 4)
( 5)
reinforcement
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Pattern deadening
T Bar style
Monk style
oPF phenomemon
Provided by:
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Annex I
3 of 9
I
Annex I
5 of 9
--
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-- $
Annex I
6 of 9
/
Annex I
8 of 9
Fig.C Flat uppers show the OPF - once lasted the "blow'i.ng" disappears.
j _______ ------ 0
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