Cape Banks, Bouldering Thecrag
Cape Banks, Bouldering Thecrag
Cape Banks, Bouldering Thecrag
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Australia New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Eastern Suburbs Little Bay Cape Banks
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56 BLDV
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56 Cape Banks
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50 m
300 ft Leaflet | © Land and Property Information, NSW
Seasonality
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Description
Overhung Slab Vertical East
The best crag of Little Bay. Bouldering on the Southern tip of the Cape Banks peninsula. Very scenic with crashing waves and often a nice sea
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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing
Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and an-
chors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For
more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
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Approach
Park at the end of Cape Banks Road at the Westpac Lifesaver Helicopter Base and follow the fire trail south. Cross the foot bridge to the Cape and
stay high to get to the South end of the Cape where you walk down a ramp and get to The Big Straight Wall sector or scramble down into the BRAD
sector. Note that the Botany Bay National Park gates close at 20 30.
Tags
Sandstone Walk off New area Sandy
CONTENTS
The Big Straight Wall
Suncorp Block
Cape Town
ING direct
The Pyramids
BRAD sector
The Banks
Sunny Side
Routes Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Route Grade
Good sector in high tide and high swell. Good warm ups.
6
1 9
8
10
2 4
3
5
7
1 ★ CBA Boulder 5m V0
Easiest boulder that goes up the left side of the straight wall.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Jan 2017
2 9 3/4 Bank Boulder V1
another warm-up squeezed in
3 ★ Gringotts Boulder V1
13
14
11
12
11 ★ St George 4m
Boulder V2
Stand start on left jug around corner and slot on face.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 21 Nov 2016
12 ★★ Suncorp 4m
Boulder V3
Start down low on two incut edges then come out and over avoiding jug to the left used for st George start
FA: Joshua hardy, 29 Jan 2017
13 ★★ Bank of China Boulder V3
Start as for Suncorp, go into left jug start of St George and finish up and left on face. Bit sandy on the left arete.
FA: Simon Li, 11 Apr 2017
14 ★ Internet banking Boulder V3
Sitstart left hand as Suncorp, right hand up and around corner. Up to follow the arete. Bit awkward.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Mar 2017
17
16
18 19
20
15
21
22
Back at The Big Straight Wall, the following routes are on the back of the Suncorp boulder
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23
24
25
26
23 ★ Westpock Boulder V3
Sit starting on the west face of the boulder, climb up into the comfy pocket and mantle.
FA: Meedu Samaraweera & Bill Zhou
24 ★★ ING Boulder 3m V2
Start matched on undercling and up to large hole on the tip to follow ridge and mantle out left.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Jan 2017
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25
27
26
Pyramid shaped boulder hidden away between sectors ING Direct and BRAD Sector
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30
29
31
30
Shaded sector with some great over- that stays shaded and dry (even in high
hanging sloper action. About 20m south swell), and can be accessed from the top
of Pyramid Scheme on a raised platform directly.
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36 37
32
33 35
34
37
36
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39 40
39
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39 SHOER Boulder 3m V4
Start on the pocket below the E of the faint red painted SHOER and the crescent crimper right of the bulge. Powerful first move.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jul 2017
40 ★★★ Run The Line Boulder 3m V7
Sit start on the crescent crimp (shared with SHOER) and the knob FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 6 Sep 2017
to the Right. Move through the line of 4 small slopers on the over-
hang to finish on a dynamic move. Bring a brush as the holds are al-
ways a little sandy.
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41
41 ★★ DARB 6m
Boulder V5
Sit start at BRAD MAM, go out to jug on BRAD BRAD and traverse back to the BRAD BRAD start hold then up BRAD.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct 2017
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43 42
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44
Walk about 20m west and around the corner from Express Corner to get to the following routes.
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46
45
47
48
47 Don't Bank On It 4m
Boulder V4
Sit start up through positive holds with a punchy shoulder block last move before the top out.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017
48 ★★ Bank 4m
Boulder V2
Start as for Don't Bank On It and heel hook your way left, then up and out.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017
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52
51
50 49
53
53
On the east side of Cape Banks, just further north again is a tiny shell beach
north of the shipwreck is a patch or rea- (flooded at high tide) that is great for a
sonable rock among lots of choss. A little swim.
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54
55 56
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