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Christmas Elves Pattern

 amigurumibb by Che'Che'

6 years ago

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Presenting you the Christmas Elves pattern!

3
My intention was to make elf on the shelf but after
some research I’ve done I didn’t really like them being
mischief elves. I am more of happy and fun kind of
person and having elves that might shave my eyebrows
during the night are not the kind of elves I would keep
around 😀
Furthermore, there really are some wonderful free Elf
on the shelf crochet patterns available, and if you are
really looking for one of them I am sure you have
already started making some of them. If not, check
the Raverly or Pinterest and get your free pattern
soon.
For those that prefer nice house elves, that will bring
you smiles and cheer your holiday season try making
one of these little guys. Make them as colorful as
possible. These are happy elves and love to be dresses
in crazy and bright holiday colors.
Less talking and more working!
Pattern is pretty long so I better start on with it.
I tried to write as detailed as possible. Included as
many photos as I could take. I know there will be some
that will need more clarifications, so please do not
hesitate to write and ask.
If I missed anything I apologize in advance, as well I
am sorry for any flaws or mistakes that might got on
the way. Let me know if you encounter them and will
make correction a.s.a.p.

Christmas Elves
Materials needed:
Medium weight cotton yarn:

 colors of your choice:

 skin
 green (in two shades)
 white
 red
 yellow, brown or any other color
for the hair
 7 mm safety eyes
 2 and 2,5 mm crochet hook (2,5 is
used for the hat only)
 red embroidery floss, 1 thread (for
lips)
 needles for sewing the parts together
and mouth embroidery
 textile glue (for the hair)
 textile hardener (starch)
 powder blush or oil based crayons to
color the cheeks

Finished size:  24 cm / 9.5 inches

Gauge:  8 stitches by 8 rows in 1×1 inch (2,5
cm).  Try to obtain the gauge when working head
and body.
Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
htr – half treble crochet stitch (yarn two times over
the hook, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and
draw through the stitch. Now having 4 loops on the
hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops . Yarn over
and draw through remaining loops to finish the stitch.
pop corn – pop corn stitch (3dc worked in one stitch.
Keep the last loop of each stitch on the hook. Slip
stitch into 4 loops on the hook to finish the stitch.
This stitch is used for making nose.)
fpsc – front post single crochet
R – row or round
* * – repeat what inside stars by number (x) following
after
inc – increasing (2 stitches worked in 1 stitch)
dec – decreasing stitch (2 stitches worked together in
order to create 1 stitch)
blo – work only the back loops of the stitch
flo – work only the front loops of the stitch
note:
if making doll with lots of stripes on legs, arms, or even
the body and/or hat, try this to make color change less
visible as possible.
Change color on the last stitch of the previous round
(having two loops of one color on the hook, grab second
color and draw through these loops to close the
stitch).
Now slip stitch to the back loop of the next stitch.
Make single crochet in the same stitch where this slip
stitch was made (now making the stitch through both
loops-as you would usually do). Continue crocheting the
round. When reaching the end and starting new round,
skip the slip stitch.
 

Head
R1: sc x6 in magic ring
R2: inc x6 (12 sts)
R3: *inc x1, sc x1* x6 (18 sts)
R4: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)
R5: *inc x1, sc x3* x6 (30 sts)
R6: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)
R8, R9: sc x42 sts
R10: inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x21 (45 sts)
R11, R12: sc x45 sts
R13 inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x22 (48 sts)
R14, R15: sc x48 sts
R16: sc x8, inc x3, sc1, pop corn st, sc x2, inc x3, sc
x30 (54 sts)
R17, R18, R19: sc x54 sts
Place eyes now. Use middle round between R14 and R15
leaving 6 stitches between. Make sure the nose comes
in the round below them, centered between both eyes.
R20: sc x8, dec x3, sc x4, dec x3, sc x30 (48 sts)
R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x22 (45
sts)
R22: dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x21 (42
sts)
R23: *dec x1, sc x5* x6 (36 sts)
R24: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)
R25: *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)
R26: *dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)
tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.
 

Arms
start working with flash color yarn
R1: sc x6 in magic ring
R2: inc x1, sc x1* x3 (9 sts)
R3: sc x9 sts
R4: inc x1, sc x2* x3 (12 sts)
R5: sc x12 sts
R6: dec x1, sc x2* x3 (9 sts)
stuff this part and continue stuffing as you go. Stuff
arms light.
R7, R8, R9: sc x9 sts
change color to one you will make sleeves.
R10: blo sc x9 sts
R11: sc x9 sts
R12: blo sc x9 sts
R13, R14, R15: sc x9 sts
R16: sc8, inc x1 (10 sts)
R17 to R29: sc x10 sts
tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms later.
 

Legs:
start with shoes (make 2)
R1 sc x4 in magic ring
R2, R3: inc x1, sc x1, dec x1 (4 sts)
R4: inc x1, sc x3 (5 sts)
R5: inc x1, sc x4 (6 sts)
R6: inc x1, sc x5 (7 sts)
R7: inc x1, sc x6 (8 sts)
R8: inc x1, sc x7 (9 sts)
R9: inc x1, sc x8 (10 sts)
R10: inc x1, sc x9 (11 sts)
R11: inc x1, sc x10 (12 sts)
R12: sc x12 sts
pull the left over yarn from forming magic ring and tie
a knot inside the top of the shoe (make sure to direct
the point where your last stitch of the last round is) to
make the shoe tip keep desired form.
R13: ch1 and turn (work in rows) sc x10 sts
R14: ch1, turn, sc x10 sts
R15: ch1, turn, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3 (8 sts)
R16: ch1, turn, dec x1, sc x1, hdc x2, sc x1, dec x1 (6
sts)
R17: ch1 turn, dec x1, hdc x2, dec x1 (4 sts)
R18: ch1, turn, dec x2 (2 sts)
R19 ch1, turn, dec x1
R20: ch1, turn, sc x18, across the sides, front (2 sts
left of R12) and back. (do not count ch1 as a stitch.
We’ll skip this one on the next round)
R21: sc18
before continuing with edging around the shoe, you
might want to add yarn for the leg. Slip stitch to one
of the back loops of R21; *dec x1, sc x1* x6 making 12
sts round.
Now return to shoe.
R22: ch5, turn your work opposite direction from one
you worked R21 (so the right side of the stitches made
on chain are nice and visible) – starting from the
second chain stitch, sl st x1, sc x1, hdc x1, dc x2 in the
last chain stitch
skip 2 sts on R21 and slip stitch to front loop of the
third st.
repeat: *ch5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc2 in1 st, skip 2, sl st
to third st* around (making 6 star points areound
shoe). Slip stitch to the first front loop, ch1, turn
R23: sc to each of the front loops left on R22. Your
work will look as *ch1, sc x2* repeated around.
Tie off, hide end.
Your shoe is done. 
Here are few photos that might help you understand
the shoe pattern little bit better.

Legs (x2)
working in one or multiple colors
R1: *dec x1, sc x1* x6 (12 sts) – made while working on
shoe
stuff the legs as you go. Add little stuffing. Make legs
nice and soft.
R2 to R31: sc x12 sts
tie off. 
Flatten the top of the legs, right beneath the body and
sew across. This will make your elf sit better.
 

Body
color of your choice
place legs side by side, both facing same direction.
R1: sl st to one of the inner stitches on one of the legs.
Ch3, sc to opposite stitch of the second leg.
Once legs are connected with the chain single crochet
around making total of 30 sts. 
From the mails I get from many of you, connecting legs
seems to be the nightmare to make. Here are few
photos on how to connect legs with chain in between.
Hope it’ll help!

R2: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)
R4 to R11: sc x42 sts
R12: blo sc x42 sts
R13: sc x42 sts
R14: *dec x1, scx5* xc6 (36 sts)
R15 to R17: sc x36 sts
R18: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)
R19 to R21: sc x30 sts
R22 *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)
R23 to R25: sc x24 sts
change color to collar
R26 dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)
R27: blo sc x18 sts
change color to skin
R28: sc 18 sts
tie off leaving long end for sewing body and head
together.
Stuff body nice and firm.

Lower shirt part added on boy’s body:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body,
to one of front loops left on R12.
R1: sc x42 sts
R2: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)
R3, R4, R5: sc x48 sts
R6: *inc x1, sc x7* x6 (54 sts)
R7, R8, R9: sc x54 sts
R10: inc x1, sc x8* x6 (60 sts)
tie off hide end.

Skirt for girl:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body,
to one of front loops left on R12.
R1: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)
R2: inc x2, sc x6* x6 (60 sts)
R3: inc x4, sc x6* x6 (84 sts)
R4: inc x8, sc x6* x6 (120 sts)
R5 to R10 sc x120 sts
tie off and hide end.
Belt(s):
make a chain (I used 42 chain stitches for both dolls,
but make sure to measure the length and add or
decrease stitches accordingly.
To make belts look nice, work the loop you’ll find on the
back side of the chain. It is one single loop, pointing up
and standing in between two loops.
Look at the photo for more details.
Using this loop, your belt will look the same on the
bottom and top.
For male elf I used single crochet and for girl I
worked with half double crochet across the chain to
create the belt. Use the stitch you like better.
Stitch across the chain and sew end around doll’s waist
once done. You can sew across stitch or two on the
body to secure the belt stays in place.
Belt bucket:
work in the magic ring
sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1, sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1
close the magic ring
Shape the square with your fingers pointing chains out.
Glue the belt bucket on the belt.
Bow:
work in the magic ring
ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1, ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1
close the magic ring. Tie off but leave enough yarn to
wrap around bows middle and for sewing later.
Hanging bow ends:
ch18, starting from the the 3rd  chain st, hdc1, sl st
next 13 sts, hdc last, work around chain to slip stitch
to 1 st and finish nicely.
Hide ends in the back of the bow.
Tie this lower part on the back of up bow part and sew
them or glue them on the belt.
Ears
R1: sc x10 in magic ring
don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened
for easier working.
R2: ch1 turn, fpsc x6, sc x3, sl st x1, sl st to magic
ring. Ch1, turn.
R3: skip 2slip stitches of the previous round, hdc4 to
next st, sl st x2, sc x2, hdc x1, dc+htr to next st, make
picot of 2 ch sts on htr, hrt+dc to the next st, skip one
and sl st to last st. sl st to the base of the first stitch
made on this side.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Close the magic
ring and shape the ear nice.
R1: sc x10 in the magic ring
don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened
for easier working.
R2: ch1, turn, sl st first st, sc x3, fpsc x6
ch1, turn
R3: sc to first st, dc+htr to next sts (make 2ch picot
on htr), htr+dc to next st, hdc, sc x2, sl st x2, hdc x4
to next sts, sl st last st and base of the first st made
on this side.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.
To make your ears nice, use fabric hardener (starch or
sugar water). Model the ear while damp and let it dry
completely.
Collars:
Boy elf collar:
working on the front loops of R27 of the body
sl st to one of front loop stitches,
*ch6, sl st1, sc1, hdc, dc x2, skip 2 sts and sl st to 3 rd  *
repeat around
For extra touch and better look, sc around to all front
loops left undone. (same as what we did on shoe).
*Ch1, sc2*… around
tie off hide ends inside the body
Girl collar:
R1: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)
R2: *sc1, hdc1, dc-picot-dc to one st, hdc1, sc1, sl st1*
….around (6 petals)
tie off hide ends
edgings on sleeves:
You can try variations.
For boy I used simple single crochet around top round
and then attached back loop stitches just made with
front loops left on the lower arm part using single
crochet again
For girl. Started with single crochet and in the second
round added 1 ch stitch between each stitch on the
bottom line.
Hat:

Will give you the pattern for standard elven hat (light
green one you can see on girl)
Work with 2,5 mm hook (if working with different size
hooks than 2/2,5 use half size bigger hook from one
you used to make the doll).
I started the hat from the bottom and crocheted to
top. You can do either way. Important is to start
stitches you can divide by 5 or 6 for easier counting.
On top, to make hat narrow and pointy, you can work 3-
4 rounds. Middle part of the hat decrease every third
round (example: having 42 sts one round -either after
decreasing or increasing previous round, next two
rounds sc same amount of stitches. In this case it
would be 42. Following round either decrease or
increase – depending if you started from bottom or top
of the hat).
My hat started with ch45 (slip stitched last to first
chain stitch to form the ring and continue in spiral).
R1 to R4: sc x45 sts
R5: dec x1, sc x7* x5 (40 sts)
R6, R7 : sc x40 sts
R8: dec x1, sc x6* x5 (35 sts)
R9, R10: sc x35 sts
R11: dec x1, sc x5* x5 (30 sts)
R12, R13: sc x30 sts
R14: dec x1, sc x4* x5 (25 sts)
R15, R16: sc x25 sts
R17: dec x1, sc x3* x5 (20 sts)
R18, R19: sc x20 sts
R20: dec x1, sc x2* x5 (15 sts)
R21, R22: sc x15 sts
R23: dec x1, sc x1* x5 (10 sts)
R24, R25: sc10 sts
R26: dec x5 (5 sts)
R27 to R30: sc5
tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle
and close last round nicely. Hide the access yarn inside
the hat.
After I finished with the hat and green yarn, used red
to make the edging. First I single crocheted bottom
line and in next round used reverse (crab) stitch all
around.
If you’ve noticed, top of the head is little folded on
the side. I achieved that by decreasing R20 and R24
repeatedly.
Instead of normal decrease dec1,sc2… I did dec5, sc
remaining stitches.
I didn’t write it in the pattern, because to me it
doesn’t look anything special. I think normal decrease,
all around would look same way.

For the dark brown hat I don’t have the pattern but
will try to describe what I did to get this nice shape.
Again started from the bottom. This time I made 50
stitches chain, slip stitched last to first and worked in
rounds.
Same as previous hat. This one was divided by 5 for
easier counting the stitches and rounds.
First 4 rounds are repeated 50 sts each round
then decreasing started; first was *dec1, sc8* x5,
followed by two rounds of same stitch count, and
second decrease was *dec1, sc7* x5 followed with two
rounds of same stitch count again.
From this part on I made decreases on half of the hat
only.
For example: if the round was 40 sts, I made those 5
decreases on half of the hat, or just over 20 stitches.
Tried to count to apply them as evenly as possible on
this half.
After decreasing round, followed 2 repeating rounds of
the same stitch count.
This way I worked all the way it was possible to count
and work decrease on the half of the hat.
Finished with 5sts, and repeated this 4 times before
closing the last round.
Important is that decreases are at the same part of
the hat. This way the hat will curl naturally. If I will
have time I will try to write down exact pattern for
this hat. It is really nice one.
I am also sure that many of you will be able to make
such hat without my help.
Decrease on half of the hat evenly (every third round)!
That is all the magic there is!
Bottom of the hat; slip stitched to first round. Single
crocheted 50sts 3 times and 4th  round finished with
reverse (crab) stitch.
These 3x repeating and reverse stitch at the end made
hat curl naturally at the bottom what added extra
charm to this little pixie hat.
Hair:

Boy’s hair
Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is
done completely
R1:

 sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 17 – sl st to

the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x15
 repeat above 1 more time
 sc1 to the magic ring, ch10 – starting from the
second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 9
 repeat above (ch10) three more times
 repeat ch17 (from the start) two more times
 sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these
5 stitches)
 inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R6 to R12: sc x30 sts
from next round do not chain1 but turn each round.
Skip 1st  stitch and make decrease (2nd  and 3rd  st).
Make one decrease at the end of the row. Do not chain
but turn and continue decreasing at beginning and end
on each row, or until you reach 3 sts row count.
R13: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x25, dec x1 (27sts)
R14: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x23, dec x1 (25 sts)
R15: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x21, dec x1 (23 sts)
R16: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc, x19, dec x1 (21 sts)
R17 (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x17, dec x1 (19 sts)
R18 (skip 1st  st) dec s1, sc x15, dec x1 (17 sts)
R19: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x13, dec x1 (15 sts)
R20: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x11, dec x1 (13 sts)
R22 (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x 9, dec x1 (11 sts)
R23: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x7, dec x1 (9 sts)
R24: (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x5, dec x1 (7 sts)
R25 (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x3, dec x1 (5 sts)
R26 (skip 1st  st) dec x1, sc x1, dec x1 (3 sts)
tie off.
Close the magic ring now.
Slip stitch to R13, ch4 – starting from the second
chain hook, sl st3
repeat this from R13 one side all the way around side
and bottom to R13 opposite side.
This will create little hairs on the back of the head.
Try making them little longer if you’d like. Ch5 or 6
instead of 4. Will look even better than these short
ones.
Glue the base of the hair first. Place on the head and
pin all around. After hair is placed and pinned, arrange
the hairs in front of doll’s face.
Two longer hairs place right in front of the ears and
fringes arrange the way you like.
You can glue these hairs or sew them. Which way you
prefer.
Back hairs, short ones done last, leave as they are.
Loose and free. They will shape the head and give
extra touch to your doll.
Girl’s hair
Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is
done completely
R1:
 sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 20 – sl st to
the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x18
 repeat above 1 more time
 sc1 to the magic ring, ch12 – starting from the
second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 10
 repeat above (ch10) one more time
 sc1 to magic ring, ch16, starting from the second
chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 15 sts
 repeat ch 20 (from the start) two more times
 sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these
5 stitches)
 inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R6 to R12: sc x30 sts
From now on decrease x1 at start and end of the row.
Ch1 and turn when starting new row.
R13: dec x1, sc x26, dec x1 (28 sts)
R14: dec x1, sc x24, dec x1 (26 sts)
R15: dec x1, sc x22, dec x1 (24 sts)
R16: dec x1, sc x20, dec x1 (22 sts)
R17: dec x1, sc x18, dec x1 (20 sts)
R18: dec x1, sc x16, dec x1 (18 sts)
R19: dec x1, sc x14, dec x1 (16 sts)
R20: dec x1, sc x12, dec x1 (14 sts)
R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1 (12 sts)
R22: dec x1, sc x8, dec x1 (10 sts)
tie off.
Slip stitch to side on R13; ch40 and sl st to next side
stitch. Work this way on both sides of the hair.
From the photo you can see I worked only the sides.
You can work all the way, including the bottom row of
back of the hair, and even the upper rows. You can
chain more stitches in order to create longer hair, or
make shorter ones.
I added few photos of some hair styles that crossed
my mind. Might give you an idea of what hair style to
make for your doll.
 And that is it! We’ve done it! 😀
I hope you will enjoy this pattern and the company of
your own little elves when done. I wish they bring you
lots of joy and happiness during holiday season.
…while my elves were coming to my house from far
away North they met someone special on their journey.
This little fellow was lonely and very sad staying all
alone in distant frozen lands. My elves felt sorry for
this little one and asked him to join them. He accepted
invitation with great joy.
I accepted him with open arms and heart. When you’ll
see him you’ll know why! 🙂
The more the merrier!

Regards to all,

Vanja
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