Fashion Through The Decades

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Fashion Through The Decades

1900 – 1910 - The Edwardian Age– French influences

It was born a new sense of personal identity. Silhouette


slimmed and elongated

FASHION DESIGNERS: Paul Poiret, Jean Paquin, Mariano Fortuny

Corset

- Firmly established
- Wear it with shirt waist blouse

Dresses
- The S Bend Silhouette
- Flounces / volane
- Drapes
- Corsetry
- Volumes
- Fitted
- Luxury
- Dresses in two pieces
- Volume sleeve
- Pale colors

Blouses

- High neck blouses


- Embroidery

Hats

- Volumes
- Veil/ voal

Fabrics - Wool ( suits ) - Silk ( corsets)


1910 – 1920 – Oriental Influences

During the early years of the 1910s the fashionable


silhouette became much more lithe, fluid and soft than in the
1900s. Rich and exotic opulence in the first half of the
decade

FASHION DESIGNERS: CocoChanel ( as an emerging designer she


open her first shop in 1913), Paquin, Lanvin, Leon Bakst(mostly
costume designer for Ballets Russes), Jackues Doucet
Inspiration : Ballets Russes

Suits and Coats

- The Tailleur or tailored suit of matching jacket and skirt was


worn in the city and for travel.
- Jackets followed the lines of tunics, with raised, lightly defined
waists.
- Fashionable women of means wore striking hats and fur stole
or scarves with their tailleurs, and carried huge matching
muffs.
- harem girls in flowing pantaloons, t
- turbans
- geishas in exotic kimono.
- Simple felt hats and clouds of tulle replaced the styles of
headgear popular in the 1900s.
- coats were cocoon or kimono shaped, wide through the
shoulders and narrower at the hem. Fur coats were popular.

Colors

- vivid colors
1920 - 1930 - The Modern ERA

Women began to wear more comfortable clothes (such as


short skirts or pants).

FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel , Madeleine Vionnet; Erte ,


Sonia Delauney, Lanvin, Jean Patau, Edward Molynex

Casual elegance and classical style

- Cloche hats
- Flapper fashion
- stockings with patterns were hot fashion items.
- Embroidery snaked around the ankles and up to the knees. 
- Clothes made for comfort and ease in wear making them
revolutionary and quite modern.
- Simple shapes that did not require corsetry or waist definition
- Lastex, a rubber based thread was used in knee highs in
bright colours.

Colors

- Neutral tones of beige, sand, cream, navy and black


- Flesh and soft pastel colors
- Honey Beige, Teatime, Rose Morn, Boulevard and Spanish
Brown.

Fabrics

- Soft fluid jersey fabrics


- Silk or artificial silk known as art silk later called rayon.
-
1930 - 1940 – The Art Deco ERA

FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel, Elsa Schiaparelli .

Flapper dresses

- folds and drapes


- Skirts were frequently longer at the back than the front.
- Some of the clothes were so stylish that they could be worn
today.
- Part of their appeal was the draping fabric that was further
enhanced by cutting fabrics on the true cross or the bias grain
also quite fashionable at the start of the new millennium

Fabrics

- use of man-made fibers, especially rayon for dresses


- viscose for linings and lingerie
- synthetic nylonstockings.
- The zipper became widely used.
- Cotton
- Pure silk

Colors

- Pink
- Blue
1940 – 1950 –Haute Couture

Glamour

FASHION DESIGNERS: Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior , Christobal


Balensiaga, Jacques Fath, Pierre Balman, Gucci, Valentino.

- luxurious new look with a sumptuous silhouette and billowing


skirts.
- Clothes were still scarce and women wore the sharp-
shouldered suits with knee-length skirts
- Elegant tailors

Perfect printed silk dresses


patent waist belts,
thick tights,
gloves and platform-soled shoes
black floral printed silk,
fastened with delicate diamante clasps
simply elegant combination
the high neckline and beautifully draped sleeves ensuring that a
shorter flimsy silk frock (jerseu )
For evening, dresses came in floor sweeping lengths with long
billowing sleeves and deeper cut V necklines, sliced almost to the
waist. Still not as full on as the flesh baring designs of the Gucci of
old,
- Military twist, buttons
- Patterns

Balenciaga totally transformed the silhouette, broadening the


shoulders and removing the waist.
1950 -1960 – ready to wear, prêt a porter.

FASHION DESIGNERS: Christian Dior ; Christobal Balenciaga


Channel (came back at 1954), Jack Patu, Pierre Balman, Emilio
Pucci, Charles James, Jaques Fath, Hubert de Givency

- Chanel’s introduction of Chemise.


- The “Beatnik” style of leotards and form-fitting pants topped with
oversized shirts rivaled the petticoats and poodle skirts for favorite
style of the day.
- Leather jackets became a favorite of the “cool crowd” after seeing
Elvis sport one on television.
- The strapless dress with the fullest skirts attainable became a
favorite for evening wear

Skirts: Pencil and poodles skirts were the popular choice among
women. Poodle skirts were wide skirts that had a patched pooled on
the right bottom part of the skirt. Pencil skirts were also popular;
they were long below the knee and very tight, straight just like a
pencil.

Leather: The cool leather jacket was a must for the boys in the
1950's of course leather equivalent to cool.

Gloves/manusi: Gloves were a very popular accessory in the


1950's, seeing a woman without gloves in those days, is like seeing
a celebrity without make up in these days, which is very rare.
Gloves would be worn to fancy restaurants, parties and whatever
special occasion, even though gloves came in all lengths and
patterns. The most popular type of gloves worn was white short
gloves.

Figured Dresses: Looking like a lady required wearing heels,


gloves and beautiful dresses, especially dresses that accentuated a
lady's figure. Girdles were usually worn underneath dresses so the
women can show off their bodies. Older women wore revealing
Shoes Fashion: Shoes were
simple and plain during the
1950's and some people opted
for ballet slippers, plain black
and white shoes that resembled
sneakers or the women loved to
wear stilettos or spiked heels.

Colors – black

Baleciaga

In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the
chemise dress[3] of 1958.

Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon


jacket (1953),

the high-wasted baby doll dress (1957),

the cocoon coat (1957),

the balloon skirt (1957),

and the sack dress (1957).

In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted


dresses and coats cut like kimonos. His manipulation of the waist, in
particular, contributed to "what is considered to be his most
important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for
women.

Channel

- famous little braided suit with gold chains, shiny costume


jewelry, silk blouses in colors that matched the suit linings,
sleek tweeds, monogrammed buttons, flat black silk bows,
boaters, quilted bags on chains, and evening dresses and furs
that were marvels of simplicity.

Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy – little black


dress Audrey Hepburn
1960 – 1970

FASHION DESIGNERS:
Yves Saint Laurent,
Pacco Rabanne, Ted
Lapidus, Mary Quant,
Andre Courreges ,
Pierre Cardin, Emanuel
Ungaro (from late 60s) Bonnie Cashin ,
Givenchy, Pucci, , Mary Quant

petticoats and poodle skirts


- The tiniest mini skirts ever seen made up the “Mary Quant” Style The most ironic fashion
trend of this decade was that at the beginning, skirts were knee-length, then along came
Mary, but by the end of the 1960’s floor length “Maxis” were the hottest new style.

- The Beatles creating a fashion craze known as the “Mod” look.

- Designer Rudi Gernreich shocked the fashion world by presenting a topless version of
his new swimwear line during a runway show.

- Jackie Kennedy inspired a new sophisticated style for women world-wide with Chanel
Suits and pillbox hats.

The fifties and sixties were a time of innocence and innocence destroyed. Fashion ruled
the day, separating the “squares” from the “cool”, the “Ivy League” from those that would
later come to be labeled as “Radicals”. These decades were the start of youth using the
clothes that they wore to define themselves and to show the rest of the world were they
stood on issues of the day. This “trend” never left. The fashions may have changed
consistently over the years but the foundation remains the same. We are what we wear,
we choose clothing to reflect a certain quality, or lack thereof, up to this very day. We
have the designers of the fifties and sixties to thank for the freedom of expressing
ourselves through fashion.

Yves Saint Laurent first influenced fashion when he became head designer at
Christian Dior after the designer's untimely death. In 1962 YSL created his
own label which contributed to many of the decade's fads, including the
Mondrian shift dress, safari jacket, pea coat, and le smoking tuxed

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