instructables

Lasercut RC Halftrack

by JackCarter

Hello everyone ! Here is the Instructable for my new model : The SdKfz 251 22 ! A polyvalent halftrack that came into
multiple variations for a maximum amount of purposes : Self-propelled cannon, anti-aircraft gun, supplying truck,
infantry transportation, etc.

The truck is remotely controllable through your smarthpone via Blynk app.

Errors from my older models have been acknowledged and I made this ultimate model with both designed interior,
like my Comet or my Hetzer, and compact electronics to control tracks and wheels.

The model is scaled at ~1: 18 and has working track suspensions, wheel direction and a huge amount of moving
parts...Everything you love in a humongous amount of more than 150 0 pa rt s !

The plans are available on its Thingiverse page.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 1

Don't be scared about all the steps. They are here to divide as much as possible to simplify assembly in three main
parts :

St e p 2 t o 17 : M a in t ruck a s s e m bly
Hull
Cannon
Wheels
Tracks

St e p 18 t o 4 7 : De t a ils
Dashboard
Machine gun
Crates
Doors

St e p 4 8 t o 59 : Ele ct ro nics & pro g ra m m ing

Casing
Soldering
Flashing the code

Additional material is also needed :

Supplies:

M a t e ria l :

Plans are scaled for 3mm thick sheets. I personnaly chose MDF as it is cheap and looks pretty once cut.

I had to use 5 sheets of 30×60cm to cut everything.

Ha rdw a re :

Ø3mm screws :
x2 15mm long,
x6 20mm long,
x6 23mm long,
x6 35mm long,
x2 50mm long,

a 17cm long threaded rod,

a bunch of 3mm washers,
one or two wooden skewer picks (Ø3mm),
a pack of toothpicks (Ø2mm),
a dozen of Ø4mm tubes with Ø3mm inner diameter as tiny bearings,
Ø1mm wire (paperclips, for instance),
Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 2
 5m of 2.5mm² ground wire (Ø1.8mm),
a tiny piece of double-sided tape,
some wood glue,
common tools : cutting pliers, screwdriver, rasp, vice,
a welding machine, solder and soldering wire.

Ele ct ro nics :

NodeMCU + Motor shield,

9G servo,
Two micro gear motors (the specs of the ones I bought were 6V-150RPM),
3.7V Li-on battery ( i took a 1000mAh one),
USB charger / Step-up module to deliver enough voltage to motors.

https://youtu.be/04HzfTysL8c

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 3

Step 1: Cut Everything

You can either cut step-by-step or cut the whole truck at once. Both les are provided if you don't want to get lost
into a HUGE M O UNTAIN of parts or, in the opposite, you feel the sense of puzzle solving by having them all at
once !

I've cut everything on four MDF sheets. Everything have been cut in less than 3 hours.

Step 2: The Lower Hull

This is the main subassembly. The one other subassemblies rely on.

The lower hull will be the lower side of the truck. It consists in the front grille, the rst half of the mudguards and
will receive the bogey wheels (Step 14).

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 4

Step 3: The Cockpit Panel

This single part hides all the future electronics (to the front) from the cabin (to the back), where all the details will
be visible.

Do no t g lue it , just put it in its own slot onto the hull instead, because you will have to remove it for future
assemblies.

Step 4: The Cabin

This subassembly will rely on the lower hull. It represents the walls of the truck, including back door and front face.

For esthetic reasons, I decided to minimize slots here, as the cabin will be much visible on the nished truck.
However, I found a way to assemble it properly. Let's begin with the left side for example :

1. Join the rear mudguard with the lower wall face. There are slots on both parts, which help you to
Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 5
 glue them properly.
2. Make the storage box by gluing each triangle and the left, middle, and right of the holed box frame.
Notice that the middle triangle contains a tiny slot to receive a tiny stopper for the boxes closing
range.
3. Add the storage boxes at the end of the mudguard.
4. Extend the mudguard with the two parts showed on picture.
5. Add the second skeleton frame in order to align each mudguard parts and lower side wall. Let the
whole thing dry for 5 minutes to ensure it will be strong enough for next steps.
6. Then, glue the third skeleton frame at the right distance (LEFT/RIGHT ruler helps you to nd it).
7. Add the upper wall face. It has no slot so you do'nt have any clue for placing it. The hidden clue here
is to overlay both vertices of upper and lower wall face, as showed with an arrow on the picture.
8. Assemble the front of the cabin and put it aside for now.
9. Once you made both side of the cabin, put it onto the lower hull and use anything to make them
rest properly.
10. Let's make the rear doors now ! I mean...the rear face.
11. Glue it.
12. Glue those 4 triangles. They will hold the rear face made in point 10.
13. Put 4 drops of glue on them.
14. Put the rear face on it. W a t ch o ut ! it could slip o when the glue is drying. I've put the cabin
upside down during this point.
15. Add the the front and let the whole cabin dry.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 6

Step 5: The Floor

The oor lays between the lower hull and the cabin. The cannon will rotate in the superior hole.

Each of the cockpit panel, cabin and oor remain on each other. Try to t them at the same time.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 7

Step 6: The Hood

Woops, the sides of the hoods were switched in the rotate properly (3) when the whole thing is dry. Do
rst photo ! Join them as the drawing shows you. not forget to glue the stoppers on the middle. Then,
add both doors (4 ) .
Put 9mm of wire (as 9mm = 3 layers of 3mm) inside
each hinge (2) . Do not add too much glue, as it has to

Step 7: The Cannon (1/5)

The rst step of the cannon is to make the casing and the mantlet.

Step 8: The Cannon (2/5)

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 8

Now it's time make the barrel ! Stack them and glue them on the rod, and leave
15mm out from the ring No. 1. Leave between 0 and
Gather your 17cm rod and eventually two nuts for 6mm out from the last ring (No. 53).
transportation (i stacked all the rings at my own Fablab
before taking it home, so I didn't want to lose order of Why between 0 and 6mm ? It will depend on the exact
each ring). length of the rod, plus it allows some margin because
of the glue adding extra thickness between each ring.
As each ring is a bit bigger than its predecessor, be
cautious not lose order when you take it out from
your lasercutter.

Step 9: The Cannon (3/5)

The gun breech, as the barrel, consists in stacked layers. Stack them from front to rear. The remaining 15mm of rod
poking out from the barrel will help you for the rst ve layers.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 9

Step 10: The Cannon (4/5)

Assemble the hinges on both sides of the guide rail. Glue on both side the protective carters. The lefter
two-holed plate was glued and maintained 1.5mm
When the glue is dry, glue the cannon onto the rail. depper for more 3D e ects.

Then, add the cradle with 4 dots of glue to keep the To conclude this step, insert the whole cannon on the
bolts in place. Floor hole (Step 5). Clip it backward and prevent it
from disengagement by inserting this tiny part on its
You can now insert the cannon+rail into the frame. slot.
The mantlet shouldn't interfere when you slide it in.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 10

Step 11: The Cannon (5/5)

The muzzle is the same as my Panzer IV.

Add it to the tip of the barrel.

Step 12: The Front Wheels

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 11

The wheels can turn right or left according to a servo. Insert gimbals+wheels between each axle rods (2 &
They can also roll to simulate suspensions. Each wheel 3) and put 6mm toothpicks on either side of the
is connected to gimbals that pivot themselves onto direction rod (3) . Fit the 9mm long pieces on either
the axle. Let's see the assembly in details : side of the axle to prevent top rod to go up due to the
weight of the model (4 ) and insert the direction rod
W he e ls : (5) .

Stack the 4 layers forming the wheel (1) . Glue the 6 Put t he a xle o n t he hull :
"stairs" in a 6 branches star (2) and add the remaining
center of the wheel. The 6 little nuts can be glued on Take a skewer pick and attack the axle with 3 rings on
the top layers of those stairs (3) . Do not forget the the bottom of the hull.
little tube in the hole !
S e rv o ca s ing :
G im ba ls :
This part is an extension of the axle. Stack the those
They have toothpicks up & down and nuts in the three parts (2) and glue it on top of axle (3) . Cut a
middle (added in the next point). Put 6mm pieces of straight line throught all hole of the servo's arm (4 )
toothpicks in the upper & lower holes (3) . and plug the servo into its casing (5 & 6 ) . Push the
arm on one side in order to insert a wire into direction
Co nne ct t he w he e l & g im ba l : rod's hole and servo's arm so they can be connected
(7 & 8 ) .
Fit a nut inside the gimbal (2) and a 15mm screw
through the wheel. Screw it around the gimbal nut Spa re w he e l :
(3) and a add a second nut outside it (4 ) .

Axle : Cut an extra wheel and put it on a piece of skewer

pick onto the radiator.
Its bizarre shape is due to the fact that I looked for a
way I could t the servo directly onto it.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 12

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 13
Step 13: The Sprocket Wheels

I know ! This is not the historically correct wheels on the halftrack. I decided to make tracks similar to my Comet
model because of the ease provided by assembly and its global functionning.

The purpose of these wheels is to drive the whole tracks with its teeth. The assembly is as it follows :

1. Gather all the layers that we will stack each other.

2. Glue the four middle layers (all the layers except the rst and last one).
3. (I have used the motor axle to align them.)
4. Add the ve rims all around.
5. As I had to include some tiny space between each sprocket layer, each rim should poke a bit out from
rst and last layer.
6. Glue the inner sprocket layer.
7. Flip the wheel upside down and glue the axle end in the center of the wheel.
8. Then glue the outer sprocket layer.

Wait for it to dry, then t the gear motor in. Put a bit of hot glue if it goes out easily. Then place the whole
motor+wheel inside the lower hull.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 14

Step 14: The Bogey Wheels

Those wheels will support the whole truck. Suspensions are simulated by coupling wheels in pair, as there are 6
bogey wheels on each side.
W he e ls :
Put the 6 spacers with as showed with tube in the center, stuck between two identical wheel layers. There two types
of wheels, the inner and outter one, which will be alternated to ll an interwine pattern.
Co uple rs :
Stack the two parts as indicated. The upper part is the part that contains hexagonal hole on each side.
As s e m bly :

1. Take both inner and outer wheel in addition of a coupler.

2. Fit the 35mm screw in the middle hole with a nut.
3. Add 3 and 7 washers behind the outer and inner wheel. The quantity may be di erent according to
the thickness of your washers, but the idea is to keep the inner wheel inside the outer one, and the
outer one at ~3mm from the coupler.
4. ~2mm of each screw should poke out from the back of the coupler. Thighten the wheels to the
couplers by squeezing a nut on those remaining 2mm. Ca ut io n : t he t hre a ds s ho uld no t be
lo ng e r t ha n t he nut , otherwise it could scratch the hull.

Ins e rt t he w he e ls :

1. Fit the 3 couplers inside the three holes from the hull.
2. Add 3 nuts to bring the couplers as close as possible to the hull.
3. and 4. Insert the nut blocker to maintain the nuts and prevent them from going away.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 15

This is a good way to stuck an axle from disengaging : make them pivot around a nut, and stuck this nut.

Step 15: The Idler

Those are the rearest wheels, which will also have the role of track tensionner :

1. Stack the ve parts with two nuts inside thanks to the two hexagonal holes.
2. (As you can see, i have t nuts in it.)

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 16

 3. Add the perpendicular nut holder (it will also keep everything at the right place )
4. Stack 6 wooden rings on the top of the assembly. Do not hesitate to put a lot of glue to keep it
strong (I had only 5 at the moment of the photo).
5. To keep the rings aligned, t a screw inside while you wait for the glue to dry.
6. Now the glue is dry, t an inner wheel with 2 or 3 washers and a 50mm screw. I thought the two nuts
added in point 2 would keep the screw tighten enough. If not, put a drop of glue in the hole.

You can now insert the idler in the back of the model with a 15mm screw passing through the nut holder. Turn this
screw to push the idler backward and tension the track (next step).

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 17

Step 16: Tracks : Prepare the Hinges

Before the tracks, we will have to make sticks that tracks will pivot around. Compared to my older models, I have
chosen ground wire instead of toothpicks (e.g. my Jagdtiger) for its softness and its greater diameter than
paperclips (e.g. my Comet).

1. Strip the whole ground wire and cut it into a maximum of ~25mm sticks.
2. Place all the sticks onto the stick rack.
3. Place the cover and squeeze the whole rack+sticks in a clamp.
4. Cut the extra length with cutting pliers to make each stick at the same length.
5. (Each stick has the same length now.)
6. Soften the tips with a grater. They will all have a nice at and soften tip.

Repeat from step 2 to soften the opposite tip.You can even soften the tips better ! If some copper waste is still
attached to the sticks, and if the sticks are a bit bent, roll them between two metal rulers to remove extra copper
and make them straight.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 18

Step 17: Tracks : Assemble the Whole Track on the Rack

The track rack was really useful for me to make the tracks in an easy, quick and accurate way.
This steps may be the longest. A little afternoon was requiered for me to make the whole tracks (~110 tracks for
total) :

1. Place the teeth parts all along the rack, alternating male and female type.
2. Glue and place link parts. The rack will helo you to keep them perfectly perpendicular to the teeth
part.
3. Then, add ring parts in the middle. Do no t g lue t he m , just place them.
4. Now, t copper sticks from previous step.
5. Finally, glue a ring part on either side of the stick.

I had to make approx. 54 links to make one side.

T he ma i n p a r t s a r e n i s he d . W e c a n ma k e t he d e t a i l s !

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 19

Step 18: Details : Driver & Radio Operator Cockpit

Let's begin with the front. It contains :

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 20

 T he da s hbo a rd & ra dio,
t he bo t t le s ,
t he s e a t s ,
t he g e a rbox & pe da ls ,
t he ha t che s .

Step 19: (Details) (Cockpit) Dashboard, Radio & Pipes

Those elements belong to the cockpit panel (Step 3). You have to assemble the dashboard with the 4 gauges rst,
then add the radio.
Fit the cockpit panel into the model and glue the combo dashboard+radio on it in order to place them at the right
height.
Then, place the 90° piece of pipe at the same level as the rst pipe.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 21

Step 20: (Details) (Cockpit) Bottles

The bottles consist in stacked rings around a rectangle part. Glue a little bottle on each side of the cockpit, then the
big one on the left (or the right, do it as you want !)

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 22

Step 21: (Details) (Cockpit) Seats

Once you have assembled both seat, glue them in front of the dashboard, onto the Floor (Step 5).

Step 22: (Details) (Cockpit) Gearbox & Pedals

Glue them on the Floor.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 23

Step 23: (Details) (Cockpit) Hatches

Once you have assembled them, insert them both holes on the Cabin (Step 4).

Step 24: Details : Cabin

This is where all the most visible items are :

T he m a chine g un,
t he m a g ra ck,
t he be nch & cra t e s he lf,
a no t he r cra t e s he lf,
t he lit t le s cra t e s ,

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 24

 t he g re a t e r cra t e ,
t he a m m o cra t e s be ne a t h t he ca nno n,
t he s t o ra g e box o n e a ch s ide o f t he ca nno n,
t he s ide ne t s ,
t he s pa re t ra cks .

Step 25: (Details) (Cabin) the Machine Gun

The MG consists in three parts :

The gun,
the pod,
and the slot.

Each of them pivot on each other.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 25

Step 26: (Details) (Cabin) Magazine Rack

Place it next to the machine gun.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 26

Step 27: (Details) (Cabin) the Bench & Crate Rack

The rack can hold two crates (we will make them later).

Step 28: (Details) (Cabin) the Second Crate Rack

This one can hold three crates.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 27

Step 29: (Details) (Cabin) the Crates

There are four variations of them according to the number of buckles on the direction.

I have decided to make only crates with upward buckles to make more visible details.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 28

Step 30: (Details) (Cabin) the Larger Crate

Stack the four layers and place it on the oor. It is not necessary to glue it.

Step 31: (Details) (Cabin) Storage Boxes Beside the Cannon

Those boxes are placed on either side of the cannon. I've put a hole on the hidden face so it can not be mistaken.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 29

Step 32: (Details) (Cabin) Ammo Crate (closed)

The box is rather simple. Put on the 6 faces and glue the belts around it.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 30

Step 33: (Details) (Cabin) Ammo Crate (opened)

This box misses the upper face so the sheels could be visible.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 31

Step 34: (Details) (Cabin) Outter Net

Knit the net and trap the boxes inside. Use clamps to glue it on the cabin.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 32

Step 35: Spare Tracks

For more strength, i glued the whole spare tracks+hooks on the cabin.

Step 36: Details : Front

We will add some details around the hood :

He a dlig ht s ,
e xha us t pipe ,
rig ht ca che .

Step 37: (Details) (Front) Headlights

Add them on either side of the radiator.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 33

Step 38: (Details) (Front) Exhaust Pipe

Each layer of the right cache contain a little slit to di erenciate them from the left cache. Stack them around two
toothpicks, but don't forget to add the exhaust pipe during the assembly.

Step 39: (Details) (Front) the USB Cap

The right cache contains only three layers glued to the hull. The three upper layers can slide up and down to access
the USB port.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 34

Step 40: Details : Cannon

The only remaining parts of the cannon are both of cra nks and the o pt ics .

Step 41: (Details) (Cannon) Cranks

Begin by gluing pipes with toothpicks, then glue the cranks.

Add 6mm long wire when you make the handles.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 35

Step 42: (Details) (Cannon) Optics

When you will glue the whole optics, check if it will watch through the mantlet hole.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 36

Step 43: Details : Sides

We are near the end ! Only a few parts are remaining to conclude the whole assembly of the truck.

Step 44: (Details) (Side) Storage Boxes & Taillights

Take back the storage boxes doors we've put aside from step 4. Add hinges in the same way we did for the hood.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 37

Step 45: (Details) (Side) Mudguards

Be cautious not to glue the mudguard to the lower hull, otherwise you'll be unable to remove the cabin from the
hull.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 38

Step 46: Details : Rear Door

Do as the same as the storage boxes ! the "F" parts prevent them from staying opened.

Step 47: Details : Wheel Caps

Now, we can seal the wheels with caps onto the screws. In case I would need to access the screws back, I added only
one drop of glue so it wn't be too di cult to remove them.

T he t r uc k e s t he t i c s a r e n o w n i s he d . W e c a n n o w p r o c e e d t o e l e c t r o n i c s !

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 39

Step 48: Electronics & Software

The circuit above shows the connection between As the battery supplies only a tiny voltage (=3.7V), it
every component : has to be boosted. I decided 7V could be enough to
supply each motors. The step-up will generate higher
No de M CU : voltage from nominal 3.7V, but is also a protection
circuit, charging module via USB...it is really useful all-
I chose this microcontroller for its WiFi features and its in-one module to manage the battery.
cheapness, plus it can be found anywhere. The card
will retrieve infos via WiFi, calculate voltage to supply G e a r m o t o rs :
into both motors, and generate signals to control
them. They both are connected symmetrically (with ground
backward) so they rotate in opposite clockwise. They
M o t o r s hie ld : have a pretty high torque and speed when they are
supplied with 7V.
This board is plugged directly beneath the NodeMCU.
The purpose of a shield is to extend capabilities of a S e rv o :
microcontroller. So this shield is able to generate
greater output voltages Node would be unable to do This servo is really simple and the most basic one. You
so, as it works in 0 to 3.3V, it is not made to supply can even nd it a Arduino starter packs. It will control
peripherals directly. the front wheels angle, that's why a chosed this kind
of motor : Accurate, but no need for high speed or
The shield will generate 7V when it receives 3.3V from torque.
NodeMCU.

B a t t e ry + St e p- up m o dule :

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 40

Step 49: Electronics : Casing

First, assemble the casing that will hold every module. Fit the battery once nished.

Step 50: Electronics : Step-Up Boost

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 41

Add this module after adding a piece of double-sided plugged the battery and checked with a multimeter
tape. the output voltage.

The battery has been provided with a female auxiliary Do no t f o rg e t t o unplug t he ba t t e ry be f o re

connector. We will use it. Shorten it and t it with a s o lde ring t he o ut put w ire s ! Re m e m be r t ha t
ziptie to the BAT + (red wire ) and BAT- (black wire ) a n e le ct ric circuit m us t a lw a y s be
pins, then solder it. dis co nne ct e d f ro m a ny po w e r s upply be f o re
be ing m a nipula t e d.
Before the next steps, we need to adjust output
voltage. This module is able to generate 4 to 27V as
output. As motors and NodeMCU can handle up to 9V, Solder two wires to VO UT + (red wire ) and VO UT-
Turn the screw-shaped potentiometer in order to (black wire ) pins.
supply 7V (2V from overvoltage for security) after having

Step 51: Electronics : NodeMCU + Motor Shield

With cutting pliers, shorten the three lefter pins of the terminal blocks, because it may enter in contact with the
step-up module.

Then screw VOUT+ soldered wire to VIN block and VOUT- to GND block.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 42

Step 52: Electronics : Jumper

As the shield handles two separate voltage inputs for both NodeMCU and motors, and NodeMCU supporting up to
9V, we will supply both Node and motors with 7V. Connect a jumper to short both supplies.

Step 53: Electronics : Gear Motors

Take two long wires and make them pass through slits next to motors to save connectors from sudden tearings.

Solder them and twist them to di erenciate left and right motor.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 43

Step 54: Electronics : Fit the Casing + Servo

Now, t the casing inside the lower hull and screw both motor wires in A+ , A- , B+ and B - blocks.

Don't forget to plug the servo to the D0 pins.

Step 55: Electronics : Charge Via USB

When you need to charge the battery, remove the hood and the right cache. The USB port of the step-up module is
visible.

You can plug in a USB cable to charge the battery.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 44

Step 56: Control From Cellphone With Blynk

Blynk is a really nice app to create easy HUD for homemade projects to control any Arduino boards via multiple
protocols (WiFi, Bluetooth, USB, etc.).

When you have downloaded the app, create an account and a project :

1. Assign the ES P8 26 6 as device, with W iFi connection type.

2. Once you have accessed to the HUD, the side panel shows all the widgets you can use.
3. I decided to add more commands than my Comet for more complexity : an emergency stop, a servo
o set...

As slider don't have autoreturn, I added buttons to force their value to their default position.

Click on a widget to open its settings. You can chose the pin value will be sent on, the range of values for sliders,
etc... other options will be leaved by default.

Step 57: How to Control the Truck ? (Code Explanation)

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 45

The code consists in three main parts :

T he dis t ribut io n o f t hro t t le o n bo t h s ide s (like a di re nt ia l g e a r),

t he s m o o t hing o f t hro t t le t o a v o id brut a l a cce le ra t io n,
a nd t he s e t t ing o f PW M .

It is as simple as this :

void loop() {
Blynk.run();

adaptCommandSpeed(); //set command according to speed and direction

adjustActualSpeed(); //add a fading to smooth the acceleration

setRight(speedR_actual); //set PWMs

setLeft(speedL_actual);

delay(20);
}

As tank wheels don't turn at same speed when it turns, a little calculation is to be made to determine the speed of
both side according to the slider direction value with the adaptCommandSpeed() function :

void adaptCommandSpeed() {
speedL_command = (float)(speed_slider-128) * leftFactor(steer_slider) + 128 ;
speedR_command = (float)(speed_slider-128) * rightFactor(steer_slider) + 128 ;
}

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 46

To avoid brutal acceleration and damaging the tracks, we will add a fade to the commands :

void adjustActualSpeed() {
if(speedL_actual < speedL_command) speedL_actual++ ;
if(speedL_actual > speedL_command) speedL_actual-- ;
if(speedR_actual < speedR_command) speedR_actual++ ;
if(speedR_actual > speedR_command) speedR_actual-- ;
}

Pulse Width Modulation is used in electronics to simulate an analogic voltage from on/o output, by modulating its
duty cycle (duration of high voltage compared to whole period). Most of microcontrollers have embedded features
to do it.

The purpose of the motorshield is to receive a PWM as low-voltage command (3.3V for NodeMCU) and supply the
same signal with higher voltage (7V) to motors. The shield requires to set a bit for direction ( forward or backward)
which will simply deliver negative voltage instead positive :

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 47

 //Example with right motor
void setRight(int pwm) {
if(pwm >= DEFAULT_PWM_VALUE) { //PWM > 128 -> Forward
analogWrite(GPIO_R, mapSpeedToPwm(pwm));
digitalWrite(GPIO_DIR_R, HIGH);
}
else {
analogWrite(GPIO_R, mapSpeedToPwm(pwm)); //PWM < 128 -> Backward
digitalWrite(GPIO_DIR_R, LOW);
}
}

Step 58: Flash the Code

This part describes some modi cations you will have to do into the code before to ash it into the controller. The
card has to be recognized by the project. We will need to insert in the code some unique informations about our
project.

A d a p t t he c o d e
Go into the project settings, and send to your address the token, which is a big string, allowing the app to
recognize your NodeMCU when turned on.

Copy the token from your recently received mail and paste it into the auth array.

Also, you have to connect the Node to your WiFi, because Blynk does not allow direct Phone / Controller
communication, as it must pass by Blynk servers rst. You can specify your phone hotspot ID (it worked for me ), so
you can control further than your home's WiFi range.

In s t a l l t he l i b r a r i e s
Then, if you never ashed a NodeMCU before, you need your computer to recognize it. The Arduino
IDE provides a board manager, where correct drivers are installed.

Copy the following line :

https://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266...
Open the preferences and paste it in the Additional Board Managers URLs. Save the setting and go

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 48

 to the board manager in Tools>Board>Boards Manager. The ESP8266 board should be present, at the
end of the list. I chose version 2. 5. 0 with my IDE in 1. 8 . 9 .
You also need the Blynk library, which you can nd in Sketch>Include Library>Manage libraries... and
then search for Blynk in the search eld.

You may now ash the code into the NodeMCU.

Step 59: Try It Now !

Once turned on and connected to your phone, You can drive it through your whole home !

https://youtu.be/2QNIOzuWjV4

Step 60: Conclusion

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 49

It has been a real experience for me to polish every detail in this new model, from new smooth tracks, wheel
suspensions, compact electronics...

The amount of free time I had during lockdown had been a very good opportunity to correct every little detail and
propose a model without errors from my older instructables.

Looking at the drawings, the question arises - the author does not know the "nesting" function?
Plus, the drawings are divided into FIVE sheets - the author lied that four 30x60cm was enough for
him?
Yup, you're right, I estimated it at four because i've cut some parts there and there - with rests of
sheets. I have updated it now.
I use Illustrator to make most of the parts, and as a graphical software, I couldn't nest them.
It was also a secondary way to cut everything. I suggest you to cut step-by-step and nest it
yourself, but I guess you will find another thing to complain too ?
Do you want more "complaints"? Material. MDF is certainly a good material. but in case of "high
humidity" it has a bad property to swell, which will lead to mudding of all moving parts. 3mm
plywood would be much better in this wood.
Cut it in plywood then :D

very well done & but for a laser cutter and lets admit it- some other personal missing skill sets I
would love to tackle and finish this for my grandchildren. Damned great instructional, I enjoyed
reading this, it brought back memories of putting together RC hobby planes as a child and how
great it it felt when finished and working. Keep these coming.and you are going to be really
popular.
Amazing! So many features! Voted.

I'm glad you liked it ;)

Wow! This is amazing! I had no idea you could get some much detail with laser cut wood like that,
you definitely have my vote!
Thank you :D

Blew my mind!!! Absolutely damn amazing. This deserves a GRAND Prizes in Make it Move
Contest!!!!
Thanks !

Excellent job detailing to the limit. How long does the battery last for.
There are other small adaption that could be incorporating in an extended battery use, lights etc.
Thanks mate. I did not reach the end of the battery since its original factory charge. Hence, i do not
drive it much, as I show it proudly on my shelf most of time.
WOW Amazing!!!

This is just incredible, wow, great job. So cool to see laser cutting taken this far. You also did a
nice job on the documentation, all the way from assembly through to code and electronics. You
have my vote!
Wow! This is OUTSTANDING!!!! It’s so fun to watch! . Thank you for detailed instructions

Wow... Superb.....!!! Too long instructables!!! But clearly explained!! Well done!!

That's really awesome :)

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 50

How many pieces total is this? It looks like a lot of pieces to make and put together.

It is around 1500 wooden pieces, and including screws, copper sticks, toothpicks, etc. It goes up to
1700 pieces.
Wow

You refer to a track rack, but I have not found the profiles for it.
Nicely and intricately done. Thanks.
My bad, I forgot the tools. I have added it.

Lasercut RC Halftrack: Page 51