Amigurumi bunny in carrot car crochet pattern

octopuscrochet.com/amigurumi-bunny-in-carrot-car-crochet-pattern/

*This blog contains affiliate links for products I use, believe in or recommend. This means I will earn a small
commission if you make a purchase from one of these links, and of course it is at no extra cost for you. It
helps me to keep Octopus Crochet going and to keep publishing new free patterns and tutorials for you to
enjoy, so thank you! You can check my full disclosure here.

MATERIAL
2.5mm crochet hook / US C-2
Yarn:
DMC Happy cotton: shades 761 (off-white), 788 (yellow), 753 (orange, 2 balls of 20gr), 777,
(brown), 780 (green), 759 (light grey), 775 (black). For the eggs you can use any color in your
stash, I used shades 768 (mauve), 763 (pale pink), 796 (pale blue), 782 (mint green), 770 (pale
yellow).
Rico Design Creative Lamé Gold to decorate the eggs
DMC Cotton Perle N°8 shade 310 (black) to embroider the smile and eyebrows

Tapestry needle
Fiberfill
Stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn

1/2
 a pair of 8mm safety eyes (see safety warning below)
Ball point pins for assembly

LEVEL

Beginner to intermediate.

CROCHET LANGUAGE
This pattern uses US terms abbreviations.

GAUGE

Gauge with the above material (2.5mm hook): 5-round circle = 4cm (1.6″). Find out how to measure gauge
for amigurumis in my tutorial here.

With the material mentioned above and when gauge is achieved:

The bunny is 12cm tall (4.7″)

The carrot car is 19cm long (7.5″)
The eggs are 4cm long (1.6″)

2/2
Carrot car with secret trunk crochet pattern
octopuscrochet.com/carrot-car-with-secret-trunk-crochet-pattern/

*This blog contains affiliate links for products I use, believe in or recommend. This means I will earn a small
commission if you make a purchase from one of these links, and of course it is at no extra cost for you. It
helps me to keep Octopus Crochet going and to keep publishing new free patterns and tutorials for you to
enjoy, so thank you! You can check my full disclosure here.

MATERIAL
2.5mm crochet hook / US C-2
Yarn:
#3 / DK weight cotton, I specifically used DMC Happy cotton, shade 753 (orange, 2 balls of 20gr),
777, (brown), 780 (green), 759 (light grey), 775 (black).

Tapestry needle
Fiberfill
Stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn
Ball point pins for assembly

LEVEL

Beginner friendly.

CROCHET LANGUAGE

This pattern uses US terms abbreviations.

GAUGE AND SIZE

Gauge with the above material (2.5mm hook): 5-round circle = 4cm (1.6″). Find out how to measure gauge
for amigurumis in my tutorial here.

With the material mentioned above and when gauge is achieved:

The carrot car is 19cm long (7.5″)

PATTERN NOTES AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch into
consecutive stitches from the previous round (unless stated otherwise). Ex: 3inc = work one increase
into each of the next 3 stitches.

1/9
 This pattern is worked in continuous spiral rounds (i.e. without closing the rounds with a slip stitch)
unless stated otherwise. It may help to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.
For amigurumi in general, I always use an invisible decrease (unless stated otherwise) to minimize the
gaps between these stitches so that the fiberfill doesn’t show too much. You can check this simple
technique in a video tutorial here, but if it’s too much hassle and you prefer to start right away you can
also work with normal decrease, no big deal!

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

st: stitch/es

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: single crochet increase (work 2 sc into the same st)

dec: single crochet decrease (single crochet two stitches together)

[number]: total number of stitches of the round

Rnd: round

(…) x 2: repeat whatever is inside the brackets the number of times indicated

(…) in next st: work all the instructions inside the brackets in the next stitch

in BLO: in the back loop only

in FLO: in the front loop only

THE CARROT CAR

With orange. This is Part 1.
Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]

Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]

Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x 6. [30]

Rnd 6: (inc, 4sc) x 6. [36]

2/9
Rnd 7: (5sc, inc) x 6.[42]

Rnd 8: in BLO, sc around, and insert a stitch marker in the first front loop left aside. [42]

Rnd 9: (in both loops) (5sc, dec) x 6. [36]

Rnd 10: sc around. [36]

Rnd 11: (dec, 10sc) x 3. [33]

Rnd 12: sc around. [33]

Rnd 13: (dec, 9sc) x 3. [30]

Rnd 14: sc around. [30]

Rnd 15: (dec, 8sc) x 3. [27]

Rnd 16: sc around. [27]

Rnd 17: (dec, 7sc) x 3. [24]

Start filling with fiberfill.

Rnd 18: sc around. [24]

Rnd 19: (dec, 6sc) x 3. [21]

Rnd 20: sc around. [21]

Rnd 21: (dec, 5sc) x 3. [18]

Rnd 22: sc around. [18]

Rnd 23: (dec, 4sc) x 3. [15]

Rnd 24: sc around. [15]

Rnd 25: (dec, 3sc) x 3. [12]

Rnd 26: sc around. [12]

Rnd 27: (dec, 2sc) x 3. [9]

Rnd 28: sc around. [9]

Rnd 29: (dec, sc) x 3. [6]

3/9
Fasten off, finish stuffing (not too much), and sew closed.

Now let’s prepare a part that will be used later for the back of the car. Let’s call it Part 3.

With orange.

Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]

Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3sc) x 6. [30]

Rnd 6: (4sc, inc) x 6. [36]

Rnd 7: (2sc, inc, 3sc) x 6. [42]

Fasten off, weave in tails.

Now let’s crochet the middle of the carrot car. This is Part 2.

This part is crocheted in rows first, then in rounds.

With orange, make a slip knot.

The turning chain doesn’t count as a stitch.

Row 1: Using the stitch marker left at round 8, count 16 stitches and join yarn in the 16th front loop,
crocheting in “backward” direction (towards the start of the round). Work 32sc. [32]

This way you should have 16 sc on each side of your stitch marker.

4/9
Row 2 – 12: chain 1, turn, 32sc. [32]

Row 13: 32sc, chain 16. [48] (the chains count as stitches)

The last part of the carrot car is crocheted in rounds again.

Rnd 14: starting in the first st from row 13, 48sc. [48]

Rnd 15: (dec, 6sc) x 6. [42]

Now take Part 3. It has 42 stitches just like your last round. We are going to attach Part 3 to the car to build
up the trunk, by single crocheting both parts together. The right side of Part 3 should be inside the driver’s
cabin (and the wrong side hidden inside the trunk).

Rnd 16: insert your hook under your next stitch and under a stitch of Part 3, and work 42sc around this way.
[42]

Rnd 17: (dec, 5sc) x 6. [36]

Rnd 18: (dec, 4sc) x 6. [30]

Rnd 19: (dec, 3sc) x 6. [24]

Fasten off, make an invisible finish, and weave in yarn tail.

5/9
Now let’s crochet the trunk lid. This is Part 4.

With orange.

Rnd 1: leave a long starting tail (15cm / 6″) and work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]

Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]

Don’t fasten off.

Now we are going to attach Part 4 to the top of the last round by single crocheting both parts together.

Insert your hook in the next stitch of part 4 and in the last stitch of round 19. Work 11sc this way, towards the
top of the car.

6/9
Fasten off, make a knot to secure the yarn tail and weave it in.

Insert the starting tail of Part 4 through a tapestry needle, weave in the tail straight to the bottom of the trunk
lid, create a loop, and secure it with a knot. Then weave in the tail inside the lid.

Now let’s make a knob. Take a strand of orange yarn. With a tapestry needle, insert it at the bottom of the
trunk, from inside to outside, at the center of the trunk, between rounds 17 and 18. Wrap the yarn 6 times
around your needle and go back in the same hole. Tighten it up and make a knot with each yarn tail to
secure it.

THE TIRES

With light grey.

Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]

Change color with black (finish the last st with black).

Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]

Rnd 5: in BLO, sc around. [24]

Rnd 6: sc around. [24]

Rnd 7: in BLO, (dec, 2sc) x 6. [18]

Rnd 8: (in both loops) (dec, sc) x 6. [12]

Start filling with fiberfill.

7/9
Rnd 9: 6dec. [6]

Stuff with fiberfill, fasten off leaving an extra long tail for sewing, and sew closed.

THE STEERING WHEEL

With brown.

Make a slip knot. Chain 16. Slip stitch to the first chain to join.

Row 1: sc in each st around (start in the next available stitch and make the last sc in the sl st). [16]

Slip stitch to the next st, fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

The steering wheel will naturally curve a bit inward, showing the wrong side, leave it this way.

THE CARROT TOPS

We are going to make several tops of different length and thickness. With green yarn.

Tops number 1: (make 2)

Make a slip knot, chain 15. Starting in the second chain from the hook, make 14 sl st. [14]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Tops number 2: (make 3)

Make a slip knot, chain 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook make 12sc. [12]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY OF THE CARROT CAR

1)Sew the steering wheel to the cabin.

2)Sew the carrot tops to the trunk lid, weave in the tails inside.

Using ball point pins, position the four tires and sew them one by one

8/9
Here you go! Now make it roar! I can’t wait to see your makes, don’t forget to tag me on Instagram
@octopuscrochetdesign .

9/9
Carrot car bunny pilote amigurumi pattern
octopuscrochet.com/carrot-car-bunny-pilote-amigurumi-pattern/

MATERIAL

2.5mm crochet hook / US C-2

Yarn:
#3 / DK weight cotton, I specifically used DMC Happy cotton, shade 761 (off-white), 788 (yellow)
DMC Cotton Perle N°8 shade 310 (black) to embroider the smile and eyebrows,

Tapestry needle
Fiberfill
Stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn
A pair of 8mm safety eyes (please read the safety warning below)
Ball point pins for assembly

LEVEL

Beginner friendly.

CROCHET LANGUAGE

This pattern uses US terms abbreviations.

GAUGE AND SIZE

Gauge with the above material (2.5mm hook): 5-round circle = 4cm (1.6″). Find out how to measure gauge
for amigurumis in my tutorial here.

With the material mentioned above and when gauge is achieved:

The bunny is 12cm tall (4.7″)

PATTERN NOTES AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch into
consecutive stitches from the previous round (unless stated otherwise). Ex: 3inc = work one increase
into each of the next 3 stitches.
This pattern is worked in continuous spiral rounds (i.e. without closing the rounds with a slip stitch)
unless stated otherwise. It may help to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.

1/7
 For amigurumi in general, I always use an invisible decrease (unless stated otherwise) to minimize the
gaps between these stitches so that the fiberfill doesn’t show too much. You can check this simple
technique in a video tutorial here, but if it’s too much hassle and you prefer to start right away you can
also work with normal decrease, no big deal!
Safety eyes Caution: please be mindful that safety eyes are NOT safe for children under 3 years
old, despite their name. So if you make this item for a child, make sure to inform the parents that
children under 3 should be supervised when playing with this toy, and if you intend to sell it at a crochet
fair, I strongly advise to add a printable care card with a safety warning. An alternative would be to
embroider eyes with yarn, instead of using safety eyes.

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

st: stitch/es

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: single crochet increase (work 2 sc into the same st)

dec: single crochet decrease (single crochet two stitches together)

[number]: total number of stitches of the round

Rnd: round

(…) x 2: repeat whatever is inside the brackets the number of times indicated

(…) in next st: work all the instructions inside the brackets in the next stitch

in BLO: in the back loop only

in FLO: in the front loop only

THE HEAD

With off-white.

Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]

Rnd 4: sc around. [18]

2/7
Rnd 5: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]

Rnd 6: sc around. [24]

Rnd 7: (3sc, inc) x 6. [30]

Rnd 8 – 12: sc around. [30]

Rnd 13: (dec, 3sc) x 6. [24]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, 8 stitches apart when counting on round 6 (then once secured,
the width of the eyes can hide the first stitch so you’ll see only 7 stitches between the two eyes on my pics
for example).

Rnd 14: (dec, 2sc) x 6. [18]

Start stuffing with fiberfill.

Rnd 15: (dec, sc) x 6. [12]

Rnd 16: 6dec. [6]

Fasten off, finish stuffing, and sew closed. Hide the tail inside.

THE EARS
With off-white.

Rnd 1: work 4 sc into a magic ring. [4]

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x 2. [6]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x 3. [9]

3/7
Rnd 4: sc around. [9]

Rnd 5: (2sc, inc) x 3. [12]

Rnd 6: sc around. [12]

Rnd 7: (3sc, inc) x 3. [15]

Rnd 8-9: sc around. [15]

Rnd 10: (3sc, dec) x 3. [12]

Flatten the ear and sc both sides together (it should make 5sc).

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold the base of the ear and with your tapestry needle, sew the tail
to the opposite side.

Make a second one.

THE BODY

With off-white.

Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]

Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]

Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x 6. [30]

4/7
Rnd 6: (4sc, inc) x 6. [36]

Rnd 7 – 9: sc around. [36]

Rnd 10: dec, 31sc, dec, sc. [34]

Rnd 11: 7sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 7sc, dec. [30]

Rnd 12: sc around. [30]

Rnd 13: (dec, 4sc) x 5. [25]

Rnd 14: sc around. [25]

Rnd 15: (3sc, dec) x 5. [20]

Rnd 16 – 17: sc around.[20]

Rnd 18: 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc. [18]

Finish stuffing, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the head later.

THE FEET
With off-white.

Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: (2sc, inc) x 2. [8]

Rnd 3 – 7: sc around. [8]

Don’t stuff. Flatten the foot and sc both sides together (it should make 3sc). Fasten off and leave a tail for
sewing.

Make one more.

THE ARMS

With off-white.

Rnd 1: work 4sc into a magic ring. [4]

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x 2. [6]

Rnd 3 – 8: sc around. [6]

5/7
Don’t stuff. Flatten the arm and sc both sides together (it should make 2sc). Fasten off and leave a tail for
sewing.

Make one more.

THE SCARF

With Yellow. Make a slip knot, chain 51 (try to make your chain not too tight).

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 50sc. [50]

Fasten off, make a knot to secure it and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLY OF THE BUNNY

1) Sew the body to the head (the bumpy part of the body should be at the back).
2) Sew the ears to the head, so that they are leaning backwards: the front of the ears are sewn between
rounds 10 and 11, and they are 4 stitches apart.

3) Sew the feet to the body.

4) Sew the arms to the body just before the last round of the body, and grab a stitch from the upper arm to
secure a straight position (as if it was holding the steering wheel).

5) Put on the scarf and embroider the mouth, nose, and eyebrows. Add a bit of make up blush on the
cheeks and inner part of the ears.

6/7
7/7
Crochet easy and quick mini Easter eggs
octopuscrochet.com/crochet-easy-and-quick-mini-easter-eggs/

MATERIAL

2.5mm crochet hook / US C-2

Yarn:
#3 / DK weight cotton, I specifically used DMC Happy cotton, but you can use any yarn, any
color, just adapt the hook size.
I used Rico Design Lamé Gold to decorate the eggs

Tapestry needle
Fiberfill
Stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn

LEVEL
Beginner friendly.

CROCHET LANGUAGE
This pattern uses US terms abbreviations.

GAUGE

The gauge is not critical for this pattern! But as an indication, gauge with the above material (2.5mm hook):
5-round circle = 4cm (1.6″). Find out how to measure gauge for amigurumis in my tutorial here.

With the material mentioned above and when gauge is achieved:

The egg is 4cm long (1.6″)

PATTERN NOTES AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch into
consecutive stitches from the previous round (unless stated otherwise). Ex: 3inc = work one increase
into each of the next 3 stitches.
This pattern is worked in continuous spiral rounds (i.e. without closing the rounds with a slip stitch)
unless stated otherwise. It may help to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.

1/3
 For amigurumi in general, I always use an invisible decrease (unless stated otherwise) to minimize the
gaps between these stitches so that the fiberfill doesn’t show too much. You can check this simple
technique in a video tutorial here, but if it’s too much hassle and you prefer to start right away you can
also work with normal decrease, no big deal!

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

st: stitch/es

sc: single crochet

inc: single crochet increase (work 2 sc into the same st)

dec: single crochet decrease (single crochet two stitches together)

[number]: total number of stitches of the round

Rnd: round

(…) x 2: repeat whatever is inside the brackets the number of times indicated

(…) in next st: work all the instructions inside the brackets in the next stitch

Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x 3. [9]

Rnd 3: (2sc, inc) x 3. [12]

Rnd 4: (3sc, inc) x 3. [15]

Rnd 5: (4sc, inc) x 3. [18]

Rnd 6 -10: sc around. [18]

Rnd 11: (dec, sc) x 6. [12]

Start filling with fiberfill

Rnd 12: 6dec. [6]

Finish stuffing, fasten off, sew closed, hide the tail inside.

2/3
Now the next thing to do is to make many more and decorte them with strands of golden yarn or any other
color you like! I can’t wait to see your makes, don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @octopuscrochetdesign .

3/3