The document outlines the process for creating a pencil skirt, including selecting a poly silk blend fabric, creating a marker plan with specifications for cutting and spreading the fabric, and providing details on the equipment used such as cutting machines, sewing machines, and a fusing machine. It also includes a lay order plan with size ratios and corresponding fabric requirements.
The document outlines the process for creating a pencil skirt, including selecting a poly silk blend fabric, creating a marker plan with specifications for cutting and spreading the fabric, and providing details on the equipment used such as cutting machines, sewing machines, and a fusing machine. It also includes a lay order plan with size ratios and corresponding fabric requirements.
The document outlines the process for creating a pencil skirt, including selecting a poly silk blend fabric, creating a marker plan with specifications for cutting and spreading the fabric, and providing details on the equipment used such as cutting machines, sewing machines, and a fusing machine. It also includes a lay order plan with size ratios and corresponding fabric requirements.
The document outlines the process for creating a pencil skirt, including selecting a poly silk blend fabric, creating a marker plan with specifications for cutting and spreading the fabric, and providing details on the equipment used such as cutting machines, sewing machines, and a fusing machine. It also includes a lay order plan with size ratios and corresponding fabric requirements.
SCAP JURY ISHIKA MALU BFT/19/62 Semester-3 1 Bachelor’s of Fashion Technology Index MAIN TOPICS PAGE NO. SELECTION OF GARMENT WITH FABRIC 3 DESIGN SPECIFICATION 4 MARKER AND SPREADING MODE 5 CUTTING MACHINE AND EQUIPMENT 2 8 LAY ORDER PLAN 17 FABRIC CONSUMPTION 46 TOTAL COST 49 SELECTION OF GARMENT WITH FABRIC Single Darted Skirt Pencil Skirt
FABRIC: POLY SILK BLEND
FUSING: WOVEN FUSIBLE 3 DESIGN
SPECIFICATION Marker & spreading mode TYPE OF FABRIC: Asymmetric Fabric Symmetric weft wise
MARKER MODES: Nap up and down 5
SPREADING MODES: Nap either way, Face to Face 6
Small Extra Large
Medium Large Efficiency of marker AREA of the Marker = 55.5 x 25.1 = 1393.05 cm2
=0.816453697056 X 100% =81.6453% Cutting Equipment and Machines Inspection Machine Single Needle Lockstitch
Automatic Spreading Machine
Overlock Machine
Straight cutting knife
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Band Knife
Notcher
End cutter
Fusing Machine Cutting Equipment and Machines A machine that is used for fabric inspection and fabric checking in the textile mills and in the garment production unit, is known as fabric inspection machine. The fabric inspection machines facilitate in fabric inspection process, by mechanical unrolling and rerolling of fabric. The fabric inspection machines also come with fabric length counter (length measurement), which measures fabric length while fabric checking is done.
Automatic Spreading machines are used in the unwinding of large rolls of fabric. When using industrial machines and tools to produce garments, the fabric is often ordered in giant rolls and a spreading table is often used in order to evenly roll out and spread the fabric so that it can be cut for each garment piece.
Unlike manual spreading machines or tables, an automatic spreading people does not need many people involved to operate or maintain the machine as it works. Instead of needing several people at all times, it handles the spreading process from tart to finish. An automatic spreading machine can control the speed at which the fabric travels which means there are no humans needed in the process unless the machine encounters an error. Cutting Machines This machine is most commonly used in the industry today because of its adaptability and flexibility to various kinds of fabrics and spread heights. Due to the shape of the cutting knife, it is a good choice for accurately cutting sharp corners and angles. However, it has its limitations too. It does not give very accurate cuttings along the curves due to the blade shape. The broader the width of the blade, the less accurate the cut along the curves will be. As the machine enters the spread, the base plate lifts up the plies of fabric causing a slight distortion. To overcome this, edges of the base plate are sloped and the front is curved.
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Band Knife machines have blades that rotate through a slot on the cutting table while cutting. The operator guides the fabric through either a push or pulling action towards the knife. One edge of the blade is sharpened and the blade is narrower than the straight knife which is the greatest advantage of this machine. It gives accurate cuts for small parts such as, collar, cuffs, and pockets as the turning of the block on a narrower blade disrupts the plies less than the wider blade of a straight knife machine. When using this machine, space has to be left around the garment parts during planning the marker. Cutting Machines End cutters are special type of round knife machines. A small diameter round knife is placed on a rail or track with a pushing arm. This ensures an accurate straight cut. End cutters are used to cut the end of the fabric after each spread while spreading.
Garment parts require notches in order to align them accurately during sewing and assembly. Operator controlled cutters can be used for this purpose; 11 however, accuracy depends on the skill of the operator. It is also necessary that the lay must be absolutely vertical, otherwise some pieces will be marked too deep while other may not be marked at all. Special notching machines such as, straight notchers and vee notchers are available for this purpose. Hot notchers have a heating element which fuses the fibers adjacent to the notch in order to prevent fraying and disappearance of the notch. It is a good choice with natural and knit fabrics, however it cannot be used for thermoplastic fibers. It may also be available with adjustable heat control. FUSING MACHINE
A flatbed fusing press is a static method whereby, the assembly is fed or positioned onto the bottom plate and the head or the top plate is closed over it. It consists of two horizontal metal plates. The top platen is unpadded, but the bottom one has resilient cover of silicone rubber.
Fused parts- Waist Band 12
Type of Interlining- 100% polyester woven
Fusing Parameters- 1. Time- 10-12 seconds 2. Pressure- 2.5-3 kg/ cm2 3. Temperature- 125-130◦ C Fusing Machine- Flatbed fusing machine Sewing Machines These type of sewing machines generally use two threads one upper and one lower. Both the upper and lower thread lock together in the hole in the fabric. There is a spindle on the top of the machine where the spool is kept. A tension mechanism is produced and the spindle spins and the thread run from the spool through the arm and finally through the needle. The lower thread is present in the bobbin. The bobbin is kept in a case which is present in the lower section of the machine. A tension mechanism is produced and the spindle spins and the thread run from the spool through the arm and finally through the needle. The lower thread is present in the 13 bobbin. The bobbin is kept in a case which is present
in the lower section of the machine.
A tension mechanism is produced and the spindle spins and the thread run from the spool through the arm and finally through the needle. The lower thread is present in the bobbin. The bobbin is kept in a case which is present in the lower section of the machine. A tension mechanism is produced and the spindle spins and the thread run from the spool through the arm and finally through the needle. The lower thread is present in the bobbin. The bobbin is kept in a case which is present in the lower section of the machine. Sewing Machines These types of machines sew over the edge of one two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. They automatically cut the edges and sew. The cutters present in overlock machines allows these machines to create thickened seams easily and quickly. These are also called sergers in North America. Some machines are also available without cutters. These machines run at a high speed from 1000-9000 rpm. These are mostly used in industries for edging hemming and seaming. These are also called sergers in North America. Some machines are also available without cutters. These machines run at a high speed from 1000-9000 rpm. These 14 are mostly used in industries for edging hemming and seaming. These are also called sergers in North America. Some machines are also available without cutters. These machines run at a high speed from 1000-9000 rpm. These are mostly used in industries for edging hemming and seaming. These machines have fewer functions than sewing machines. They use 2-9 threads and multiple needles to create an overcast stitch. They are an addition to regular sewing machines, not a replacement. They are used for decorations, over locking, and is also called overedging, merrowing. Sewing Machines
Button Holler machines are meant to make button holes. The buttonholer is an attachment for a sewing machine. Nowadays most modern machines have this button holler function inbuilt, which many older machines do not have. Any sewing machines that are capable of making lockstitch can make button holes with a buttonholer attachment. 15
The machines are used for attaching buttons in fabrics. Normal chain stitch and lock stitch can also be used for this. Button attachment machine is a simple automatic machine, in which button is attached automatically. • Selection of design
HOW TO? • Selection of Fabric • Selection of Fusible • Decision of best marker and Spreading mode • Creating marker • Spreading the fabric • Spreading the marker • Selection of cutting Equipment • Cutting the fabric 16 • Applying Notches • Numbering the fabrics • Bundling • Inspecting
And of to the sewing Department
LAY ORDER PLAN 17 Size S M L XL Ratio 1 2 1 1 Fabric 0.5 0.70 0.80 1.00 Consumption Colours Red Blue Green Ratio 2 2 1 Cost of Rs. 40 Rs. 42 18 Rs. 45 Fabric/meter End 4 CMSs Allowances Size S M l XL
Red 800 1600 800 800
Blue 800 1600 800 800
Green 400 800
19 400 400
Total 2000 4000 2000 2000
Lay plan: 1 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies
Size S M L XL Red 700 1500 700 700 Blue 800 1600 800 800 20
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1900 3900 1900 1900 Lay plan: 2 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies
Size S M L XL Red 600 1400 600 600 Blue 800 1600 800 800 Green 400 21 800 400 400 Total 1800 3800 1800 1800 Lay plan: 3 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies
Size S M L XL Red 400 1200 400 400 Blue 800 1600 800 800 22
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1600 3600 1600 1600 Lay plan: 4 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies
Size S M L XL Red 500 1300 500 500 Blue 800 1600 800 800 23
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1700 3700 1700 1700 Lay plan: 5 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies Size S M L XL Red 300 1100 300 300 Blue 800 1600 800 800 24
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1500 3500 1500 1500 Lay plan: 6 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies Size S M L XL Red 200 1000 200 200 Blue 800 1600 800 800 25
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1400 3400 1400 1400 Lay plan: 7 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies Size S M L XL Red 100 900 100 100 Blue 800 1600 800 800 26
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1300 3300 1300 1300 Lay plan: 8 S, M, L, XL and 100 Red plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 800 1600 800 800 27
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1200 3200 1200 1200 Lay plan: 9 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 700 1500 700 700 28
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1100 3100 1100 1100 Lay plan: 10 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 600 1400 600 600 29
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 1000 3000 1000 1000 Lay plan: 11 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 500 1300 500 500 30
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 900 2900 900 900 Lay plan: 12 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 400 1200 400 400 31
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 800 2800 800 800 Lay plan: 13 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 300 1100 300 300 32
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 700 2700 700 700 Lay plan: 14 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 200 1000 200 200 33
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 600 2600 600 600 Lay plan: 15 S, M, L, XL and 100 Blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 100 900 100 100 34
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 500 2500 500 500 Lay plan: 16 S, M, L, XL and 100 blue plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 35
Green 400 800 400 400
Total 400 2400 400 400 Lay plan: 17 S, M, L, XL and 100 green plies Size S M l XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 36
Green 300 700 300 300
Total 300 2300 300 300 Lay plan: 18 S, M, L, XL and 100 Green plies Size S M l XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 37
Green 200 600 200 200
Total 200 2200 200 200 Lay plan: 19 S, M, L, XL and 100 Green plies
Size S M l XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 38
Green 100 500 100 100
Total 100 2100 100 100 Lay plan: 20 S, M, L, XL and 100 Green plies Size S M L XL Red 0 800 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 39
Green 0 400 0 0 Total 0 2000 0 0 Lay plan: 21 4M and 100 Red plies Size S M l XL Red 0 400 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 40
Green 0 400 0 0 Total 0 1600 0 0 Lay plan: 22 4M and 100 Blue Plies Size S M l XL Red 0 0 0 0 Blue 0 800 0 0 Green 0 400 0 0 41
Total 0 1200 0 0 Lay plan: 23 4M and 100 Blue Plies
Size S M l XL Red 0 0 0 0 Blue 0 400 0 0 42
Green 0 400 0 0 Total 0 800 0 0 Lay plan: 24 4M and 100 Green Plies
Size S M l XL Red 0 0 0 0 Blue 0 0 0 0 43
Green 0 400 0 0 Total 0 400 0 0 Lay plan: 25 4M and 100 Green plies
Size S M l XL Red 0 0 0 0 Blue 0 0 0 0 44
Green 0 0 0 0 Total 0 0 0 0 No of Marker: 2 Types of marker: • S M L XL • 4M Length of Marker Marker 1 (S M L XL): 0.5 + 0.7 + 0.8 + 1.0 = 3 meter Marker 2 (4M) = 4*0.7= 2.8 meter 45
Consumption of Fabric: =No of plies * Length of Marker + End allowance Total consumption of Red
=8*100* (length of marker 1+ End allowances) + 2*100*(length of marker 2+ end
allowances) =200*(4*3.04+ 2.84) =200*(12.16+2.84) =200*(15.00) =3000 meters 46 Total consumption of Green fabric = =4*100* (length of marker 1+ End allowances) +1*100*(length of marker 2+ end allowances) =100*(4*3.04+ 2.84) =100*(12.16+2.84) =100*(15.00) 47
=1500 meters Total consumption of Blue fabric = =8*100* (length of marker 1+ End allowances) +2*100*(length of marker 2+ end allowances) =200*(4*3.04+ 2.84) =200*(12.16+2.84) =200*(15.00) 48
=3000 meters TOTAL COST OF FABRIC =Sum of cost of fabric of each color* Length of the fabric =3000*40 +3000*42 +1500*45 =1500*(80+84+45) 49 =1500(209) =Rs 313500 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, Mumbai
Thank you ISHIKA MALU BFT/19/62 Semester-3 50 Bachelor’s of Fashion Technology
