Goat Milk

Soap Making
Manual
Table of Contents
4 The Farm
6 Why Goat Milk Soap?
8 History
10 Terminology
12 Equipment & Safety Considerations
14 Base Oils
16 Base Oil Properties
20 Essential Oil Vs. Fragrence
22 Perfumery Notes
24 Essential Oil Blending Methods
26 Sample Essential Oil Combinations
28 Other Additives
30 Lining Soap Molds
32 Cold Press Steps
34 Sample Recipes
36 Resources
The Farm

4
Creekside Farm is 125 acres of wooded hillsides,
rolling meadows and fertile creek bottoms in
Athens, Ohio. The bulk of the farm is situated on
a broad clearing bordered by multiple creeks.
The southern part of the property opens to the
wide creek bottom that gives the farm its name-
Creekside.

Creekside Farm is an Animal Welfare Approved

farm run by a husband and wife team. They
milk a small herd of dairy goats and use the
milk to make farmstead cheeses, yogurt, and
goat milk soap in their on-farm facility. For the
health of the animals and the land, their goats are
rotationally grazed and seasonally milked.

All of Creekside Farm’s soaps are handmade in

small batches using the traditional cold press
method. They use goat milk fresh from their
farm, and only the purest and most sustainably
harvested additives. Additionally, their products
are made using electricity from solar power.
These practices make for a natural, moisturizing
soap that is gentle on skin and the environment.

5
Why Goat Milk Soap ?

6
Goat milk soap is known for being mild and
gentle which makes it suitable for all skin types.
The fats in the milk and the natural glycerin in
handmade soap make a very moisturizing bar,
and the natural sugars from the milk give the
lather an extra boost.

One of the benefits of making your own soap is

being able to adjust recipes to create just the right
bar for your desired purpose. You can change the
base oils to get a different type of lather, alter the
superfat percentage to make it more moisturizing,
blend essential oils to give it a special smell, or
add exfoliants to better remove dirt.
Additionally, you’re in control
of what ingredients go into your
product and ultimately onto your
skin-the largest organ of the body.

7
History
Cold process soap is made by mixing lye with a
liquid, such as water or milk, and oil. Combining
these three ingredients causes a chemical
reaction called saponification in which the initial
ingredients are changed into soap.

Early soaps were used for cleaning materials

rather than people, since it wasn’t until the 18th
century that bathing came into fashion. Ancient
Babylonians are credited with being the first to
make soap almost 5000 years ago. Since then,
there have been many variations in ingredients
based on available resources in a given region.
Ancient Egyptians used animal and vegetable
oils combined with alkaline salts. In Spain and
Italy, soap was made with goat fat and Beech
tree ashes. People in Syria made soap using olive
oil (known as castile soap). In parts of West
Africa, plantain skins and cocoa pod ash were
used to saponify the fats.

8
There is much debate over the origins of the word
“soap.” According to Roman legend, soap was
named after Mount Sapo, an ancient site of
animal sacrifices. The women washing their
clothes along the Tiber River below the
ceremonial alters noted that it was easier to get
them clean after heavy rains washed the fat and
ash down to the bank. Other people say the
word “soap” derived from the Celtic word “saipo”
which was the name of their combination of
animal fat and plant ashes.

In colonial times in the United States, people

would save ashes from their fires and the fat
from butchering animals to make soap. An
ash-water mixture was placed in a barrel and
filtered through straw, twigs, and rocks to obtain
a lye liquid to use in soap making. The strength
of the “lye water” was tested by floating an egg
or small potato in the solution. It was considered
the proper strength to make soap when the
egg or small potato floated about halfway
beneath the surface of the solution. The
recipes and techniques in this manual incorporate
longstanding traditions of homemade soap
making with the precision of modern scales
and calculations to ensure a safe, consistent,
natural product. 9
Terminology
Alkali (also known as a base) has a pH greater
than 7. Lye is an alkali.

Base Oils make up the bulk of the soap

(ex.coconut, olive, palm)

Cold Process soap making only requires heat to

melt oils. No cooking involved.

Cure, refers to the time period between making

the soap and its use. Soap should cure 4 - 6
weeks before it is used. During this time the soap
becomes mild and the saponification process
completes.

Essential Oils are volatile oils that have been

obtained from a plant for its scent, flavor or
therapeutic properties.

Fragrance Oils are synthetic imitations of essential

oils and other scents.

Gel Stage begins once soap has been mixed to

trace and poured into the mold where it will
begin to heat up. If the soap is properly wrapped
and allowed to heat up enough, it will undergo
a change. It will become translucent and take on
the look of Vaseline. Most soap makers want their
soaps to gel, but some prefer soap that hasn’t.
Either way is fine.
10
Lye is an ingredient of soap, also known as
sodium hydroxide.

pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a

solution. Substances with pH values greater than
7.0 (alkaline) are bases; less than 7.0 (acidic) are
acids with 7.0 being neutral.

Render animal fat by melting it down to remove

all of it’s impurities.

Saponification is the chemical reaction between

an alkali (lye) and a fat or oil to form soap.

Seizing occurs when the mixture of lye, liquid and

oils goes from liquid to semi-solid unexpectedly
quickly before being poured into the mold.

Soap is the result of a chemical reaction between

a lye solution (sodium hydroxide for bar soap or
potassium hydroxide for liquid soap) and fats/oils.
If it isn’t made with lye, it isn’t soap.

Super-fatted refers to excess oils left unsaponified

in the finished soap. This excess oil contributes to
the moisturizing qualities of soap.

Trace is the point in soap making where the

mixed lye and oils have combined to a thick
pudding- like substance. When drizzled on to
itself, a trail is left. 11
Equipment+Safety Considerations
Bowls: Heat-resistant, non-reactive containers
such as Pyrex, stainless steel, or polypropylene
plastics are safe containers for mixing the soap
making ingredients.

Heat Source: Base oils can be melted in a double

boiler, crockpot, or microwave.

Stick Blender: Using a stick blender instead of

hand stirring decreases the stirring time from
hours to minutes when making a batch of soap.

Spatula: Use for scraping the soap out of your

container into the mold.

Scale: Soap recipes are measured by weight

instead of volume. I recommend a digital kitchen
scale that measures in ounces to two decimal
places.

Soap Molds: Common materials are wood

(lined with nonstick material), silicone or plastic.
For an inexpensive start to soaping, use plastic
containers such as yogurt cups. To calculate the
mold’s volume measure your mold in inches and
plug the dimensions into the following equation:
length x width x depth x 0.38 = total ounces of
base oils to use in your recipe

12
Cutting Tools: You can buy specific soap cutting
tools for ease and consistency, but a simple
cutting board and butcher knife will work also.

Thermometer: A basic kitchen thermometer with

a temperature range between 60-140 F.

Lye is an alkali which means it is very basic (has

a high pH) and is highly corrosive. Lye and the
soap mixture prior to setting up can cause severe
burns to skin in the same way that materials that
are very acidic (have a very low pH- like battery
acid) cause severe burns. Also, when lye is mixed
with water or milk, it will let off fumes, so always
work in a well ventilated area.

Eye protection: Wear safety goggles at all times

when working with lye and soap that has not
completely set up yet. Your safety goggles should
protect the eye from all sides. Eye glasses are not
sufficient protection.

Skin protection: Use rubber dish gloves or nitrile

examination gloves at all times when working
with lye and soap that has not yet completely
set. Additionally, wear long sleeves, pants, and
closed-toed shoes to protect your skin from
unexpected spills and splashes.
13
Base Oils:Hard,Soft+Brittle
Soft Oils are liquid at room temperature and
can be poured easily for measurement. Soap
made from a high percentage of these oils will
be softer and stickier when un-molding. If this is
a problem, leave them in the mold a day or two
longer before un-molding and cutting. If they still
stick, you can try freezing them before removing
them from the mold. The exception to this rule
is olive oil. Soap made with a high percentage
olive oil is soft upon un-molding but after curing
becomes very hard. If you are trying to do
intricate designs with multiple colors, try using
a recipe with more soft oils (especially olive oil)
because they are slower to trace. This allows time
to complete the design before the soap sets up.

Hard Oils are oils, fats, and butters that are solid
but scoopable at room temperature such as lard,
coconut oil, and shea butter. Hard oils make a
hard bar of soap.

Brittle Oils are oils that are solid and hard at

room temperature such as cocoa butter. Brittle
oils also make a hard bar of soap. I use a butcher
knife and cutting board or chisel and hammer to
break these oils into small pieces.
14
15
 Base Oils:Soft Oils
Oil Firmness Properties
Almond Oil (Sweet) Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

Apricot Kernel Oil Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

Avocado Oil Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

Castor Oil Soft Boosts lather by making a soap more

easily dissolvable

Grapeseed Oil Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

Jojoba Oil Soft Stabilizes and suspends lather, gives

soap a sheen making it look less dull

Olive Oil Soft Low slippery lather, almost no bubbles,

low cleansing; does not make a white bar

Rice Bran Oil Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

Safflower Oil Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

Sunflower Oil Soft Medium lather, mild cleansing

16
Usage Notes
5-12% Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

5-12% Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe. It is

5-12% high in vitamin E and other vitamins and minerals making it
a great addition to facial bars or bars for sensitive skin.

Some soap makers like to use 15-20% castor oil in their

5-10% shampoo bars or shaving bars. Allow for additional time
before cutting or using when using castor oil.

5-12% Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

5-8% Jojoba oil, a liquid wax, diminishes lather when used in high
amounts. Keep below 8%.

The low cleansing properties of olive oil make it mild and nourishing.
25-80% Soap for sensitive skin or baby skin should include high amounts of
olive oil (60%). Castile soap is made with 100% olive oil. Soaps over 50%
olive oil will need to cure longer before unmolding and using.

5-12%
Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

5-12%
Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

5-12% Can be substituted for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

Use high oleic (a naturally occuring fatty acid) sunflower
for a longer shelf life. 17
 Base Oils:Hard + Brittle Oils

Oil Firmness Properties

Hard Abundant lather, large fluffy bubbles,
Coconut Oil
high cleansing, hard bar, white color

Lard Hard Mild stabilizing creamy lather, hard,

white bar

Increases hardness of the soap, and it

Mango Butter Hard
adds conditioning and moisturizing
properties as well

Mild stabilizing lather, hard,

Palm Oil Hard
long lasting bar

Mild stabilizing lotion-like lather,

Shea Butter Hard
medium hard, long lasting bar

Mild stabilizing lotion-like lather, medi-

Tallow Hard
um hard, long lasting bar

Similar to coconut oil, large fluffy bub-

Palm Kernel Brittle
bles, high cleansing but a bit milder than
Oil
coconut oil

Cocoa Butter Brittle Mild stabilizing lotion-like lather, hard,

long lasting bar

18
Usage Notes
High amounts of coconut oil can be drying; however, you
15-50% can always use a higher superfat to counteract the drying
effect. Experiment with a 100% coconut oil soap with a
20% superfat.

25-50% 100% lard soap with no superfat makes great laundry

soap but has low lather.

5-20%

Palm oil is commonly used to add hardness to homemade

25-50% soap recipes. For environmental reasons, I do not use palm
oil since even “environmentally friendly” brands cause
deforestation and loss of fragile habitat.

5-20% You can experiment with butters in high amounts – up to

80%. Try a bar made from 60% shea butter and 40%
coconut oil.

100% tallow soap with no superfat makes great laundry

25-50%
soap but has low lather.

15-30% This is also used to add hardness to soap. Again, I do not

use it due to environmental reasons.

5-15% You can experiment with using cocoa butter and other
butters in high amounts – up to 80%. Try a bar made from
60% cocoa butter and 40% coconut oil

19
Essential Oil vs Frafrance Oil
Essential oils are highly concentrated and can be
dangerous. Never apply essential oils directly to
skin without using a carrier oil to dilute them.

Essential oils are natural oils typically obtained by

a distillation process that extracts the fragrance
and botanical benefits of a plant.

Fragrance oils are synthetic chemicals created

for use in perfumes or cosmetics. They are not
derived from plants. They are used to create a
wide array of scents that cannot be created by
essential oil combinations.

Typical Volumes
Fragrance oil and Essential Oil: 0.5-1 oz per
pound of oil.

Rates vary depending on the strength of the oils

and the type of oil you are using. Citrus essential
oils tend to require amounts on the higher side,
whereas strong essential oils like peppermint or
clove will require smaller amounts.
20
21
Perfumery Notes
The perfumery note of an oil refers to the rate
at which the oil evaporates. Top notes evaporate
more quickly and base notes more slowly. As a
result, top note scents are the smell that your pick
up first and are the first to dissipate.

Top Notes are the lightest of all the notes. This is

because they have the smallest molecules. They
are often derived from flowers, leaves, citrus and
flowering herbs.

Examples: basil, bergamot, cajuput, cinnamon,

clary sage, coriander, eucalyptus, grapefruit,
lemon, lemongrass, lime, orange, peppermint,
sage, spearmint, tea tree

Middle notes bind other essential oils together

and create balance between the top notes and
the base notes. The aroma of middle notes lasts
longer than top notes, but not as long as base
notes. They are often derived from whole herbs
and spices.

Examples: bay, black pepper, cardamom,

chamomile, cypress, geranium, lavender, pine,
rosemary, yarrow
22
Base notes are deep, heavy, and often earthy in
scent. These are the oils that ground your blend
and help its aroma last longer. Base notes are
often derived from trees, roots, and barks.

Examples: balsam peru, cassia, cedar, cinnamon,

clove, frankincense, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli,
sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, ylang ylang

23
Essential Oil Blending Methods
The 30-50-20 Method
Use 30% of your top note oil, 50% of your
middle note oil, and 20% of your base note oil in
your blend.

Equal Parts Method

When combining essential oils from the same
category (all citrus oils, all floral oils, etc.), try
using equal parts of each of the essential oil.

Blend as you Go Method

•Choose one base note oil, one middle note oil,
and one top note oil.

•Combine one part of each base and middle note

oil, swirl and smell your blend. Add another part
of whichever oil (base or middle note) you like
best.

•Add in one part of your top note oil, swirl and

smell your blend again. Continue adding oil one
part at a time until you have a ratio you like.

•Keep track of how many parts of each you

combined, so you can recreate the same blend
again in the future.
24
25
Sample Essential Oil Combinations
Citrus
Citrus essential oils lose their scent quickly in
soap. Consider buying 5x or 10x strengths.
Some citrus essential oils will alter the soap color
to make it more yellow, orange, or brownish.
Look for “decolorized” versions if this is a concern
for you.
• 1 part lemon essential oil
• 2 parts orange essential oil
• 1 part lime essential oil
• 1 part grapefruit essential oil

Earthy
Patchouli is the quintessential example of an
earthy essential oil. Vetiver, clary sage, and
sandalwood are other common essential oils in
this category.
• 2 parts patchouli essential oil
• 1 part bergamot essential oil
• 1 part ylang ylang essential oil

Floral
Floral essential oils blend well with other floral
essential oils, or consider combining them with
citrus essential oils.
• 1 part geranium essential oil
• 2 parts lavender essential oil
• 2 parts chamomile essential oil
26
Woodsy
Common essential oils that are considered
woodsy are cedar, fir, cypress, pine, and sage.
They generally pair well with citrus or mint
essential oils.
• 2 parts white fir essential oil
• 2 parts cypress essential oil
• 2 parts wintergreen essential oil

Spicy
Ginger, cinnamon, clove, cardamom, and other
spicy essential oils can be irritating to some with
delicate skin. If you have sensitive skin, consider
adding a small amount of spicy essential oils to
other blends first to see if you tolerate it before
using it as the sole essential oil in your soap.

• 3 parts cardamom essential oil

• 2 parts clove essential oil
• 1 part ginger essential oil

27
Other Additives
Beeswax can be used to add some hardness to
soap. The melting point of beeswax is about 145°
F, so you will have to bring your oils to a higher
temperature than normal then add the beeswax
and allow the mixture to cool back down. The
wax will cause it to reach trace faster, so be
prepared to pour it into the mold quickly. Use it
at rate of 1-3% of your total oils. Remember to
calculate it as one of the oils in your recipe.

Botanicals can be added to the soap in multiple

ways. You can infuse the dried herbs and other
plants in the base oils ahead of time; add it to the
soap mixture at trace, or sprinkle some on top of
the loaf immediately after pouring into the mold.
Many plant materials turn brown as a result of
the high pH and temperatures associated with the
saponification process, so you may want to try a
small batch before committing to a large amount.

28
Natural colorants tend to create more muted
earth-tone soaps. These colorants are derived
from plants, minerals, and clays. They are more
prone to fading over time, and there may be
more variation from batch to batch. Synthetic
colorants are used by those who prefer more
vibrant colors or more color options. They also do
not bleed into each other like natural colorants
do, so they allow for more crisp demarcation
between colors and swirls.

Exfoliants can be added to cold process soap.

Consider using cornmeal, coffee grounds, pumice,
walnut hulls, or pumpkin seeds as natural
exfoliants. Rates of use vary depending on the
material used and desired texture of the soap. As
a general guideline, consider starting with about
1 tsp per pound of oil.

Salt adds cleansing and exfoliating properties to

the soap. Salt bars are very hard, long lasting and
produce a creamy, low lather. At trace, add salt
at a rate of 50-100% of the weight of oils.

Sugar adds lather and bubbles to the soap. Use

½ to 1 tsp of sugar per pound of oil in your
recipe, and dissolve it in the liquid before adding
lye.
29
Lining Soap Molds
1 Measure the length of the inside of the soap
mold. Make sure the measurements are exact.

2 Cut heavy duty freezer paper that is the length

of the mold plus another 10 inches.

3 Fold only the left side of the freezer paper so

that the flap is 5 inches long.

4 Place the freezer paper on top of the mold with

the left folded side lined-up with the left inside
end of the soap mold.

5 Fold the right side so it fits lengthwise.

6 Place the paper into the mold.

7 Cut the freezer paper to reduce its width so that

it will fold over each long side by about 2 inches.

8 Crease the freezer paper at the bottom of the

mold against the corners.

9 Take out the freezer paper and make the crease

more defined.

30
10 Cut out small squares in each corner leaving
about 1 inch of paper on each side.

11 Place the wax paper back into the mold and

pull up the long tabs in the middle so that the
wax paper takes on the wooden soap mold’s form.

12 Cut a sliver in the paper to the top of the

mold at each corner. This will allow the wax
paper to fold over the sides without tearing
during the next steps.

13 Tape the wax paper in place on the long sides.

14 Tape the wax paper in place on the short ends.

15 Make sure that all the corners are well

defined and that there’s no loose wax paper
within the mold.
www.soap-making-resource.com

31
Cold Process Steps
1 Put on your safety gear (goggles, gloves, long
sleeves, etc.) and make sure kids and pets are not
in the general area.

2 If you are using any colorants, essential oils or

fragrances, measure them into small bowls or jars
and set aside.

3 Measure out the lye and water* in separate

containers. Slowly add the lye to the water little
by little, stirring between additions. Never add
water to lye. Stir until it is mixed in completely.
If the mixture becomes too warm (above 125 F),
set it aside or place the bowl in a cold water bath
to cool before continuing to add more lye. Do not
breath in fumes.

4 In one large bowl big enough to hold the

entire volume of soap ingredients, measure and
combine your base oils. Heat them to 110 F. Stir
to break up and solid pieces.

5 Once the oils and the lye-water have cooled

to 100-110 F, carefully pour the lye-water into
the base oils. Use hot or cold baths to adjust the
temperatures as needed before combining.

6 Use the stick blender to mix the oils and lye-

water, being careful not to introduce air bubbles.
Make sure your stick blender is fully submerged
in the soap before turning it on so you do not
accidentally splash soap batter out of the bowl.
Blend until you have reached trace.
7 If you are adding color or fragrance, add it
once you have reached trace. Carefully mix
them in with a spatula or the stick blender until
dispersed evenly. Work quickly because the soap
batter will begin to set up in your bowl as soon as
you stop stirring.

8 Pour the soap into your mold. Tap the mold

on your work surface to release any air bubbles.
Cover the mold.

9 Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 24-48

hours.

10 Unmold, cut, and cure for 4-6 weeks.

11 If storing, keep the soap in a cool, dry, dark

place for up to 6 months. Since it is a natural
product, the color or scent may degrade over
time. If not stored in proper conditions, the soap
can develop mold.

*The word “water” can be used interchangeably

with milk if you are using milk in your recipe.
If you are using milk you will need to be very
careful not to allow the lye-milk mixture to
overheat as it will cook the milk and cause
problems with your soap. For this reason, many
people who make goat milk soap use frozen milk
in their recipes.
33
Sample Recipes
Basic Bar Facial Bar
Lye 2.80 oz 2.80 oz
Liquid 6.60 oz 6.60 oz
Oils+Fats
Castor Oil Avocado Butter
2.00 oz 5.00 oz
Olive Oil Castor Oil
10.00 oz 1.60 oz
Safflower Oil Grapeseed Oil
2.00 oz 5.00 oz
Coconut Oil Olive Oil
6.00 oz 1.60 oz
Rice Bran Oil
5.00 oz
Shea Butter
1.80 oz
Additives
Lavender
Essential Oil
1.50 oz

Total Yield
Oz. 29.40 oz 30.90 oz
Superfat % 5% 6%
Exfoliating Bar Your Recipe
2.81 oz
6.60 oz

Castor Oil
1.20 oz
Olive Oil
10.00 oz
Coconut Oil
6.00 oz

Grapefruit
Essential Oil
1.50 oz
Coffee Grounds
1.5tsp

29.41 oz
3%
Resources: Retailers
Brambleberry
colorants, essential oils, fragrance oils,
molds, soap making books

301 W Holly St
Bellingham WA 98225
(360) 734-8278
www.brambleberry.com

Essential Depot
base oils, lye

2029 U.S. 27
Sebring, FL 33870
(866) 840-2495
www.essentialdepot.com
From Nature with Love
colorants, essential oils, molds

341 Christian Street

Oxford, CT 06478
(800) 520-2060
www.fromnaturewithlove.com

Mountain Rose Herbs

essential oils

152 W 5th Ave #3

Eugene, OR 97401
(541) 741-7307
www.mountainroseherbs.com
 
 Athens, Ohio
www.creeksidefarm.com

This booklet is made possible through funding by the North Central Region
Sustainable Agricultural Research and Education Initiative of the USDA.
It is part of a Research and Education proposal titled--
“Creating an Educational and Economic Value Chain for
Specialty Dairy Products in Appalachian Ohio.”
This project works with women in the specialty dairy sector to develop tools to share their
knowledge in an effort to both strengthen their farms and give current or perspective women
farmers tools to increase the specialty dairy sector.”

Rural Action is a membership based development organization started in 1991 with a focus
on asset based sustainable development, and a mission of assisting the region in transitioning
from dependence on an extractive economy. Rural Action works at the community level
with a high degree of local organizing and membership involvement to build shared
prosperity through practices grounded in community engagement and sustainable practices.
Primary program areas include sustainable agriculture and food systems, sustainable
forestry,watershed restoration, recycling and materials management (Zero Waste),
environmental education, and green energy.
www.ruralaction.org

Copyright Creekside Farm. Use with permission.

37
This manual was created for

in partnership with

with funding from