Stitches and Stitch

Classification
Abhay Kumar
Assoc Prof, DFT,
NIFT,Patna
 What is a Stitch
• As per BS 3870: “one unit of conformation resulting from one
or more strands or loops of thread intra looping, inter looping
or passing into or through material”

• Simply it is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing

thread in a specific repeated unit

• Intra looping is the passing of a loop of thread through another

loop formed by the same thread

• Inter looping is the passing of a loop of thread through another

loop formed by a different thread and

• Interlacing is the passing of a thread over or around another

thread or loop of another thread

SPME I- DFT Sem III 2

 Difference
• Stitch : is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing
thread in a specific repeated unit

• Seam: is a line where two or more fabrics are joined

• Stitching: is a series of stitches embodied in a material

for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge or both

• Sewing: is the process of making stitching or seams

SPME I- DFT Sem III 3

 Properties of Stitches
• Properties related to aesthetics and
performance are:

 Size,

 Tension and

 Consistency

SPME I- DFT Sem III 4

 Stitches
 Stitch size: has three dimensions-length, width and depth

• Stitch length – specified as SPI, also called as stitch density

• Determined by the amount of fabric that is advanced under the

needle between penetrations

• High SPI means short stitches, low means long stitches

• Long stitches are less durable and may be considered lower

quality because more subject to abrasion, snagging and grin-
through

• Men’s shirts with 22 SPI are considered high quality

SPME I- DFT Sem III 5

 Stitches
• Greater the SPI, greater the holding power and seam strength

• Negatively, high stitch count has the potential to increase

seam pucker or weaken the fabric

• Stitch length is also related to sewing speed

• Each stitch requires one revolution of a sewing machine’s

stitch forming mechanism and each machine type has
different capacity for speed or rpm

• As seam with 8 SPI can be sewn 3 times as faster as one

required to sew 22 SPI if maximum speed is maintained

• More SPI required, the more time and thread required and
costs of production are also increased

SPME I- DFT Sem III 6

 Stitch
• Stitch width – refers to the horizontal span (bight)
covered in the formation of one stitch or single line of
stitching

• Stitch width is the distance between the outermost lines

of stitches as determined by the space between the
“gauge”
needles on the needle bar – also referred to as

• Over-edge, Zigzag and cover stitches have width

dimensions

• Stitches having width dimensions require multi-needles

or lateral movement of thread carriers such as needle
bars, loppers or spreaders
SPME I- DFT Sem III 7
 Stitch
• Stitch depth – is the distance between the upper and
lower surface of the stitch and is a factor for blind
stitches

• A curved needle with lateral movement forms blind

stitches

• Depth of the blind stitch determines the amount of

penetration by the curved needle as it rocks left and right

• Stitch depth should be sufficient to catch all fabric plies

• Depth of stitch is controlled by a ridge former that

pushes the fabric up under the needle
SPME I- DFT Sem III 8
 Stitches
• Thread Tension: affects stitch formation in two ways:

1. The balance of force on the threads that form the stitch and
2. The degree of compression on the fabric created by the
threads as a stitch is formed

• Tension ensures a uniform supply of thread and determines

how well stitches conform to the standard formation
• Tension is controlled by adjusting a screw that holds the
pressure disks
• Too much tension causes pucker, uneven stitches, weakened
thread
• Too little tension causes excessive looping, loose or uneven
stitches

SPME I- DFT Sem III 9

•Stitch consistency: is the uniformity with which
each stitch is formed in a row of stitches

•Proper machine maintenance is a major factor

SPME I- DFT Sem III 10

 Classification
• Most stitches, seams and stitching can be classified by
the terms listed in,

• U.S.G.M.S 384 – March 1926 – first system by US Govt.

• DDD-S-751 – March 1930

• US Federal Standard No.751 – August 1959

• US Federal Standard No.751a –issued in January 25,

1965

• Canada also have similar classification standard –

Standard 54-GP-1a – January 1965
SPME I- DFT Sem III 11
 Stitch
• Federal Standard No.751 and DDD-S-751
each listed 6 major stitch classes (100 to 700)

• Federal Standard No.751a added a 7th stitch

class 700

1. Class 100 – Chain Stitch

2. Class 200 – Hand Stitch
3. Class 300 – Lock Stitch
4. Class 400 – Multi Thread Chain Stitch
5. Class 500 – Over-edge Stitch
6. Class 600 – Cover Stitch

SPME I- DFT Sem III 12

• Stitch classes described in ASTM D6193 are based on
the type of thread formation created by a sewing
machine

• Machines in each class may have the capability of

producing several different types of stitches depending
on the machine structure and how it is set and threaded

• Ex. Lockstitch machine(class 300) built with a needle bar

that moves laterally can produce the basic LS 301 as
well as stitches with a zigzag appearance 304 & 308

SPME I- DFT Sem III 13

 Class 100 - Chain Stitch
• Are formed from one or more needle threads
• Characterized by intra-looping
• No lower thread

• Includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105

• Class 101 is single thread chain stitch

• Class 103 is single thread blind stitch
• Class 104 is saddle stitch

• Each requires a special machine to form stitches

SPME I- DFT Sem III 14

 Stitch
• Single thread chain stitch is an intra-looping formation in
which face looks like lock stitch and back will be an
elliptical loop

• Needle carries the thread through the fabric and a looper

holds the thread and forms a loop for the needle thread
to enter as it descends for the next stitch

• Loop formation allows good elongation and stretch and

makes unraveling easy if the correct thread end is pulled

SPME I- DFT Sem III 15

SPME I- DFT Sem III 16
Chain Stitch Mechanism - Sewing Machine.mp4

SPME I- DFT Sem III 17

Class 101 – Single Thread Chain Stitch

Basting, Bag closing, Hat construction, and Buttonsew

SPME I- DFT Sem III 18

• Class 101 is frequently used for closing bags

• Often used for temporary operations such as basting

pockets

• Shirring, attaching paper tags and buttons and some

button holes can also use class 101

SPME I- DFT Sem III 19

 Blind stitch
• Blind stitches form on the fabric surface but do
not penetrate to the face of the fabric

• Formed by a blind-stitch machine using a curved

needle, single thread and spreader to form the
loops

• Little or no thread is visible on the right side of

the garment yet the hem is held firmly

• Felling on tailored jacket lapels and belt loops of

dress slacks can also use 103
SPME I- DFT Sem III 20
 Class 104 - Single Thread Saddle Stitch

• Used primarily for ornamental stitching often found in

western wear or to stitch down a series of pleats on
skirts
Typical uses; Embroidery, Blindstitch Hem on Cuffs, Bottoms, etc.

SPME I- DFT Sem III 21

SPME I- DFT Sem III 22
 Class 200 - Hand Stitch
• stitch formations are all done by hand by a single thread
except one type (205)
• Stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in
and out of the material
• Used at expensive end of garment production where
perfect finishing required
• Used most on lined jackets and tailored garments
• Ex. basting stitches used to secure parts for later
assembly
• Includes stitch types 201, 202, 203, 204 and 205

SPME I- DFT Sem III 23

 Class 202
• Single Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One
Needle Thread

Typical uses; Basting, Tacking and Repairs

SPME I- DFT Sem III 24

SPME I- DFT Sem III 25
 Class 205
• Class 205 simulates a hand running stitch but formed by a
special machine

• Class 205 is used occasionally on the front edges of men’s

jackets and coats for aesthetic purposes

SPME I- DFT Sem III 26

SPME I- DFT Sem III 27
 Class 300 - Lock Stitch
• Most frequently used and the easiest
• Requires two threads to form a stitch - a needle thread
(top) and a lower thread (bobbin)
• A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop
as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two
threads
• If a lock stitched thread breaks, the two threads used to
form the stitch lock and the whole line of stitches will
not unravel
• LS machines are versatile, can be used for variety of
operations
• A complete garment can be sewn on LS machine
• It is also the only stitch type which reliably forms the
stitch when it is necessary to sew around a corner by
pausing and pivoting on the needle
SPME I- DFT Sem III 28
How a Sewing Machine Works via animation.mp4

SPME I- DFT Sem III 29

SPME I- DFT Sem III 30
 Lock stitch
• LS machines are slower than other industrial machines

• Speed ranges from 3000 to 5000 rpm while other machines operate
at 9000 rpm or more

• Generally have more downtime because they operate with a limited

thread supply from bobbins, which has to be replaced as they run
out

• Tightness of the interlocking stitch is a problem when ripping is

needed

• Removing a line of lock stitches is very time consuming and costly

• Two is the maximum number of needles commonly used on LS

machines
SPME I- DFT Sem III 31
 Class 301
• Plain stitch or straight stitch
• Uses least amount of thread and produces flattest stitch
• Looks same on both sides – reversible
• Tightest and most secure stitch –used for setting
zippers and pockets
• Used extensively for top stitching, particularly along
collar and cuff edges and fronts of jackets
• Cannot be used to attach elastic or to sew knit fabrics or
bias seams that are expected to stretch

SPME I- DFT Sem III 32

SPME I- DFT Sem III 33
 Class 304
• Two Thread Zig Zag Lockstitch Using One Needle
Thread and One Hook (bobbin) Thread
• Traditional 304 is one-stitch zigzag used to sew athletic
wear, appliques, attaching lace on lingerie and faggotting
• Faggotting -a decorative stitching used to connect 2
pieces of fabric but allowing space between the pieces
• 304 can also be used for bar tacks, buttonholes etc

Typical uses: General Seaming, Topstitching, Cover stitching Knits or

Wovens where moderate stretch or greater coverage is required
SPME I- DFT Sem III 34
SPME I- DFT Sem III 35
SPME I- DFT Sem III 36
Class 306
• Two Thread
Lockstitch Blind
stitch
• 313 and 314 are
also lock stitch blind
stitches
• Used primarily in
men’s suits for
attaching linings and
inside components
of waistbands for
men’s dress slacks

SPME I- DFT Sem III 37

SPME I- DFT Sem III 38
• Two Thread Lockstitch Blind stitch
• 313 and 314 are also lock stitch blind
stitches
• Used primarily in men’s suits for attaching
linings and inside components of
waistbands for men’s dress slacks

SPME I- DFT Sem III 39

 Class 308
• Class 308 – two successive stitches

• Forms a longer and wider zigzag by using several

stitches before changing direction

• Used to attach elastic to lingerie

• Provides elongation, flatness and smoothness and

will not ravel out

• Formation of stitch is comparatively slow

SPME I- DFT Sem III 40

 Class 315
• Two Thread Three-Step Zig-Zag Lockstitch (three
successive stitches)
• Similar to class 308

Typical uses; Seaming, Topstitching, Cover stitching Knits or Woven’s

where wide coverage or greater stretch is required

SPME I- DFT Sem III 41

SPME I- DFT Sem III 42
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SPME I- DFT Sem III 44
 Class 400 – Multi Thread Chain Stitch
• Characterized by inter-looping
• Loops of one group of threads are passed through the
material and are secured by interlacing and inter-looping
with loops of another group
• One group is called as needle thread and other group as
looper threads
• Similar characteristics of class 100 but more durable
and used extensively on apparel
• Major difference is class 400 requires an upper needle
thread and a looper to carry the lower thread and they
form a thread loop on the under side of the fabric

SPME I- DFT Sem III 45

SPME I- DFT Sem III 46
• Includes class 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406 and 407

• Class 401 – two thread straight line chain stitch

• Class 402 – cording stitch

• Class 406 & 407 – bottom cover stitches

• Each of these has unique identifying characteristics and

specific uses

• Class 400 stitch machines do not back tack, although

stitches can be condensed to secure the ends

SPME I- DFT Sem III 47

 Class 401
• Two Thread Chain stitch ordouble locked chain stitch
(because the needle thread is interconnected with two
loops of the under thread)
• Most widely used in class 400
• Appearance same as class 101 but more durable and
less likely to break
• Can be unraveled but only if the looper thread is pulled in
the direction the stitches were formed

Typical uses; Knit Seaming, Woven Lap-seams, etc.

SPME I- DFT Sem III 48

• Machines forming class 401 are capable of operating at very
high speeds with cones of threads

• Often use multiple needles to produce parallel rows of

stitching

• Ex. Lapped side seams of woven shirts and jeans uses two
parallel rows of stitches

• Loop formation elongates when extended, hence used for

seams requiring elasticity like setting sleeves and attaching
elastic

• Multi-needle machines may produce numerous rows of

parallel stitching for elastic waistbands or decorative stitching
on belts or other garment parts
SPME I- DFT Sem III 49
Chain Stitch Mechanism - Sewing Machine.mp4

SPME I- DFT Sem III 50

SPME I- DFT Sem III 51
• Class 402 or cording stitch is used primarily for stitching
permanent creases

• Uses two needle threads that produce two parallel rows

of stitching on the face of the fabric

• A looper thread travels between the two needle threads

on the back of the fabric creating a ridge or crease
between the needle threads on the face

• Often found in sportswear, where a crease must be

maintained or on the backs of gloves, where it is more
decorative then functional

SPME I- DFT Sem III 52

• Class 404 is more elastic than 401

• Used on waistbands in men’s slacks

• Similar in appearance and use to class 304,

except that it is formed as a chain stitch

• Modifications of this type are used for

ornamental stitching like faggotting and picoting

SPME I- DFT Sem III 53

 Class 406
• Three Thread Chain
stitch Using Two
Needle Threads and
One Looper Thread
like class 402 except
that it does not ridge
up
• Class 406 and 407a
re called asbottom
cover stitches
• Used to cover seams
or unfinished edges
on the inside of SPME I- DFT Sem III 54
garments and to keep
SPME I- DFT Sem III 55
• Class 406 is used for hems on knit garments,
necklines of T-shirts and attaching bindings on
men’s briefs

• Also used for making belt loops on jeans

• Class 407 is very similar except that it uses 3

needle threads and has even more stretch

• Primary use is attaching elastic to under

garments that require maximum stretch

SPME I- DFT Sem III 56

 Class 406 and 407
• Class 406 is used for hems on knit
garments, necklines of T-shirts and
attaching bindings on men’s briefs
• Also used for making belt loops on jeans
• Class 407 is very similar except that it
uses 3 needle threads and has even more
stretch
• Primary use is attaching elastic to under
garments that require maximum stretch

SPME I- DFT Sem III 57

SPME I- DFT Sem III 58
SPME I- DFT Sem III 59
SPME I- DFT Sem III 60
Class 500 – Over edge Chain Stitch
• Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle
Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
• Often called as over lock, serge, overcast or merrow
stitches
• All class 500 stitches trim the edge of the fabric just in
front of the needle
• Stitches are formed over the edge of the cut fabric thus
finishing the fabric edge or seam
• Cannot be used for attaching patch pockets or for top
stitching
• High thread users and stretchable
• Can be used on all types and weights of fabrics
• Over-edge stitches should be pressed to one side rather
than press open and flat
SPME I- DFT Sem III 61
• Formed with one or more groups of threads and the
loops from at least one group of threads pass around the
edge of the material

• Over-edge machines must have a pair of knives for

trimming the fabric and 3 stitch forming devices:

1. A needle to carry the thread through the fabric ,

2. A looper or spreader to carry the thread form the needle
to the edge of the material on the bottom and
3. A looper or spreader to carry the thread up and over the
edge of the material on the top

• Various stitch types use different combinations of these

3 devices

SPME I- DFT Sem III 62

• Chain off: means continuing the running of machine after
the fabric has passed through the machine and a thread
chain is produced between sewn parts at the end of
each line of stitching

• Other class machines cannot afford chaining off except

over-edge machines

• Chaining off may be used to sew a large bundle of parts

very quickly

SPME I- DFT Sem III 63

• Stitch types ranges from 501 to 522

• Odd numbered stitch types 501, 503, 505 and 521 are
known as“break-open ” stitches because they act similar
to the spiral spine of a notebook

• Fabric is held tight together but not secure along the

inner edge of the stitching which allows the seam to
break open

• Best used for edge finishes and hems rather than for
seams

• Characterized by a loose needle thread on the bottom

that is pulled to the edge of the fabric where it inter-
loops the looper threadSPME I- DFT Sem III 64
• Even numbered stitch types 502, 504, 512 and 514 have
a much tighter needle thread that holds the two layers of
fabric together at the actual seam line

• Have much smoother appearance

• More durable

• Class 503, 504 and 505 are used forserging

• Serging is the process of stitching along the cut edge of

a single ply of fabric to prevent raveling

SPME I- DFT Sem III 65

 Class 502
• Two Thread Over edge Chain stitch - One Needle and
One Looper Thread
• Tight stitch used primarily on outer edges of bags

Typical uses: Serging Raw Edges

SPME I- DFT Sem III 66

SPME I- DFT Sem III 67
 Class 503
• Two Thread Over edge Chain stitch - One Needle and
One Looper Thread
• Hems on T-shirts and other knit garments

Typical uses: Serging (Covering) Raw Edges, blind hemming

68
SPME I- DFT Sem III
SPME I- DFT Sem III 69
 Class 504
• Three Thread Over edge Chain stitch Using One Needle
and Two Looper Threads
• Most common among class 500
• Highly extensible and have more stretch and requires
more thread
• Used widely in Knit caps, T-shirts and sweaters

Typical uses: Serging and Light Seaming.

Stitch has high elongation along the edge of the fabric

SPME I- DFT Sem III 70

SPME I- DFT Sem III 71
• Class 505 – mostly used for serging than
seaming since it produces a break open type
seam

• Sometimes called asbox-edge stitch orsquare-

edge stitch

• Provides excellent coverage for raw edges

SPME I- DFT Sem III 72

SPME I- DFT Sem III 73
SPME I- DFT Sem III 74
 Class 512 & Class 514
• 4 Thread Stitch -Two Needle and Two Looper Threads

• Also called asmock safety stitches

• Class 514 is stronger and more elastic and chains off

better than class 512 but both may be used for seaming
knits and woven

• But class 514 makes a wider seam

Typical uses:

Stitch has a wide bite and Greater Stretch for bulky Knits.

Stitch has high elongation along edge of fabric

SPME I- DFT Sem III 75

SPME I- DFT Sem III 76
SPME I- DFT Sem III 77
SPME I- DFT Sem III 78
• Class 515, 516 and 519 – Safety Stitches

• Combination of an over-edge stitch and a 401 chain

stitch

• Are called asSafety stitches because the chain stitch

that closes the seam is backed up by another row of
tight over-edge stitches

• Both rows are formed at the same time

• Class 516 is preferred for seaming because the over-

edge part is not break-open type

SPME I- DFT Sem III 79

 Class 515
• 4 Thread Stitch - 2 Needle and 2 Looper Threads
Stitch combines Class 401 stitch with Class 503 stitch

Typical uses:

Seaming Knits or
Woven

Stitch has a
medium bite and
Moderate Stretch

Stitch has
medium
elongation along
the edge of fabric

SPME I- DFT Sem III 80

SPME I- DFT Sem III 81
 Class 516
• 5 Thread Stitch – 2 Needle and 3 Looper Threads
Stitch combines Class 401 stitch with Class 504 stitch

Typical uses:

Seaming Knits or
Woven

Stitch has a medium

bite and Moderate
Stretch

Stitch has medium

elongation along the
edge of fabric with
better coverage on the
fabric edge

SPME I- DFT Sem III 82

SPME I- DFT Sem III 83
• Class 521 is a three thread stitch formed with 2
needles, a looper and a spreader

• Excellent elasticity and strength

• Primarily used for hosiery

• Socks may be knitted as a tube and sewn

together with a class 521 stitch at toe

SPME I- DFT Sem III 84

SPME I- DFT Sem III 85
 Class 600 – Cover Stitches (Chain
•
Stitch)
Often called asflat lock or flat seam stitches

• More complex version of class 400

• Used primarily on knits and lingerie

• Machines are extremely fast and efficient running at

9000 rpm

• Stitch formed by 2 or more needle loops passing through

the material, inter-looping on the under side and
interlocking on the top side

• A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover

thread across the surface of the fabric between the
SPME I- DFT Sem III 86
 Class 602 & 605
• Both are strong, elastic stitches used extensively on knit
garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling

• Class 602 - 4 Thread Cover Stitch – 2 Needle and 2

Looper Threads

• Class 605 - 5 Thread Cover Stitch - 3 Needle and 2

Looper Threads

• Used for attaching flat knit or ribbed knit collars

• When the upper thread is not used, these stitches

become 406 and 407 respectively

SPME I- DFT Sem III 87

SPME I- DFT Sem III 88
SPME I- DFT Sem III 89
SPME I- DFT Sem III 90
 Class 607
• 6 Thread Cover Stitch - 4 Needle and 2 Looper Threads
• Used for flat, butted seams on infants panties, men’s
briefs and other knit garments
• For every inch of needle thread this machine requires 1.5
to 3 inches of looper thread, depending on the type of
stitch

SPME I- DFT Sem III 91

SPME I- DFT Sem III 92
SPME I- DFT Sem III 93
SPME I- DFT Sem III 94
SPME I- DFT Sem III 95
 Button Hole Stitches

• Chain stitch and Lockstitch Button Hole

Stitches

SPME I- DFT Sem III 96

 Class101
• Chain Stitch Buttonhole - front and back view
• Used for light to medium weight fabrics

SPME I- DFT Sem III 97

 Class 301
• Lock Stitch Buttonhole – front and back view
• Used for medium weight fabrics or where higher quality is
requi9red
• Thread count - 2

SPME I- DFT Sem III 98

 Class 301
• Keyhole Buttonhole used for suits and heavy weight
goods where higher quality is required
• Thread count - 2

SPME I- DFT Sem III 99

 Button Sew Stitches

• Chain stitch and Lockstitch Button Sew

Stitches

SPME I- DFT Sem III 100

 Class 101
• Two Hole Chain Stitch Button-sew
• Used for light to medium weight fabrics
• Thread count - 1

SPME I- DFT Sem III 101

 Class 301
• Two Hole Lock Stitch Button-sew
• Used for medium weight fabrics or where higher quality
is required
• Thread count - 2

SPME I- DFT Sem III 102

 Class 101
• Four Hole Chain stitch Button-sew
• Thread count - 1

SPME I- DFT Sem III 103

 Class 301
• "X" Stitch, Four Hole Lock stitch Button sew
• Thread count - 2

SPME I- DFT Sem III 104

• Shank button with Wrapping used for suits and heavy
weight goods where fabric is thick

SPME I- DFT Sem III 105

Stitching Mechanisms used for Basic Stitch
Classes
Stitch Class Stitching Mechanism

100 Needle(s), blind looper

200 Needle(s), thread drum

300 Needle, bobbin case or shuttle, bobbin

hook or shuttle hook
400 Needle, eye looper, loop spreader,
chaining plate
500 Needle, loopers(blind looper for 501,
eye looper+blind looper for 502, 503),
tongues
600 Needle, eye looper, chaining plate, loop
spreader, threading finger hook,
threading finger

SPME I- DFT Sem III 106

 Stitching Quality measurement
• Stitching quality is measured with the following
parameters:

1. Stitch size
2. Stitch tension
3. Stitch sequence
4. Elongation
5. Elasticity
6. Resilience
7. Yarn severance
8. Fabric distortion
9. Strength – tensile and abrasive

SPME I- DFT Sem III 107

• Stitch tension is the degree of pressure with which the
stitch encompasses the fabrics

• It is measured in terms of stitch size with respect to

both the thickness and compression of the fabrics

• Stitch sequence is the line value of the stitching or

seaming line

• It is measured in terms of curvature and angle

precision

• Resilience is the degree to which a flexed sewing line

can return to its original plane after the flexing force is
removed

• Fusion is the degree with which fabric yarns are fused

together by heat in the sewing action
SPME I- DFT Sem III 108
• Gathering is a corrugated sewing line whose
finished sewed length is less than the original
length of the fabric

• Puckering is a corrugated sewing line whose

finished sewed length is equal to or more than its
original length

• Ruffling is a sewing line whose stitches hold a

series of miniature fabric side pleats

• Pinching is an individual miniature pleat in the

sewing line

• Shirring is a series of parallel corrugations formed

by 2 or more parallel gather sewing lines
SPME I- DFT Sem III 109