Mehmet Karahan,

Recep Eren*,
An Investigation into the Parameters
Halil Rifat Alpay* of Terry Fabrics Regarding the Production
University of Uludag Abstract
Vocational School of Technical Sciences This paper aims at introducing an approach for determining the constructional parameters
Gorukle Campus, Gorukle-Bursa, Turkey of a terry fabric for weaving. Experimental work has been conducted with 72 different terry
e-mail: [email protected] fabric samples designed and produced for this purpose. The weaving contractions of the terry
fabrics are found to change between 1.5 -2.0% in both warp and weft directions. Contractions
* University of Uludag after washing are between 5.5% and 11.5 depending on the fabric construction. The weight
Dept. of Textile Eng., Faculty of Eng. & Arch. per square metre, shearing waste and weft, ground warp and pile warp yarn ratios have
Gorukle Campus, Gorukle-Bursa, Turkey been measured, and the effects of the constructional parameters of terry fabrics on these
values are discussed. The shearing waste is found to amount to between 9.4% and 17.4%
for different fabric constructions. Mathematical expressions are derived for the calculation
of weight per square metre in terms of terry fabric constructional parameters, and for the
required weft density and pile length satisfying a desired weight per square metre. A close
agreement is found between the calculated and measured weight per square metre. A close
match is also found between the measured pile lengths and the distance between the short
and full beat-up points. It is concluded that the use of mathematical expressions, with the
support of some experimental data such as the contractions, minimises or in some cases
even eliminates the need for trial production.

Keywords: terry fabric, terry fabric construction, terry fabric production parameters.

n Introduction weight per square metre of a terry fabric square metre will bring an analytical and
is adjusted by changing the pile height, or practical approach to the terry fabric pro-
Terry fabrics are used in various fields in some cases the weft density. Generally, duction sector.
because of their water absorption prop- the trial and error method is used in the
erties. Piles are formed on one or both terry fabric industry to adjust the weight The literature about terry fabrics is
sides by the variable periodic movement per square metre; this method is based mainly based on the principles of terry
of the reed or cloth fell position, mostly on experience, and therefore requires an fabric formation and patterning [2-5].
over three picks. Figure 1 shows the pile experienced person to do the adjustment. Apart from the technical specifications
formation in terry fabrics with the three- The warp density, weft density and pile and patterning of terry fabrics, Kienbaum
pick principle. According to this princi- height should be changed by keeping a in his paper [6] introduces a mathemati-
ple, the first two picks are beaten up by balance among them in adjusting weight cal method to determine the terry fabric
the short movement of the reed some per square metre. Otherwise, the weight settings. He presents charts for weft
distance before the cloth fell position. In per square metre, the widthwise and and warp density ranges which consider
the third pick, the reed makes an exact lengthwise contractions, pile height and yarn counts, pile ratio, fabric weight
movement, and all three picks are carried shearing waste of a terry fabric will not and percentage of pile to total weight.
up to the cloth fell position. During this attain optimum values. He comments that optimum settings
movement, the three picks slide between are determined empirically, and that the
the ground warp yarns. The pile warp A quick determination of the terry theoretical approach might be useful in
yarns move forward together with three fabric’s constructional parameters on complementing practical experience.
picks and take on the pile form. The dis- a weaving machine for the production
tance ‘x’ shown in Figure 1 corresponds of a given finished terry fabric is of The aim of this study is to present an
to the pile length. It can be adjusted on paramount importance from the practical approach to producing a finished terry
terry weaving machines to obtain differ- point of view under today’s hard com- fabric at the required weight per square
ent pile heights. If piles are to be formed petitive market conditions. Establishing metre and dimensions without needing
on the surface of a terry fabric, the pile a method of adjusting terry fabric weight a lengthy trial production process. The
warp yarns must be over the third and per square metre practically and quickly, study consists of two parts, theoretical
first picks; similarly, if the piles are to as well as establishing a correct relation- and experimental. In the theoretical part,
formed on the back side of a terry fabric, ship between warp density, weft density the weight per square metre of a terry
then the pile warps must be under the and pile height for a given weight per fabric is expressed analytically in terms
third and first picks. of terry fabric parameters. Furthermore,
the weft density and pile length are
Terry fabrics must be produced at a cer- expressed analytically for a given terry
tain weight per square metre, using most- fabric weight per square metre. In the
ly 100% cotton yarns as weft-, ground- experimental part, 72 different terry
and pile warp yarns. Certain yarn counts, fabric constructions are woven with the
such as Ne20/2, Ne24/2, Ne16/1 1), and combination of 6 different warp densi-
warp density are used by factories pro- ties, 4 different weft densities and three
ducing terry fabrics. After the ground and different pile lengths. The off-loom and
pile warp yarns are prepared and drafted Figure 1. Cross-section of the three-pick pile after washing lengthwise and widthwise
as one ground and one pile warp yarn, the formation system [1]. contractions, the weight per square metre,

20 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / June 2005, Vol. 13, No. 2 (50)
the shearing waste ratio and weft yarn,
the ground warp and pile warp yarn ra- 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
tios of the terry fabrics are measured, and
the changes in these parameters are dis-
cussed. The measured weight per square
metre and pile length are compared with Figure 2. The weaving reed manufactured at different densities, dents/cm.
those calculated, and the applicability of
the theoretical approach is tested.
Table 1. Parameters of the terry fabrics.
A study has also been carried out on the
water absorption properties of terry fab- Warp density on the reed, ends/cm 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
rics using the same terry fabric samples. Weft density on the loom, picks/cm 16.0 17.1 18.0 19.5 - -
This will be the subject of a separate Pile length low medium high - - -
paper.
Table 2. Number of ends for each reed density.
n Material and Method Reed density, dents/cm 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
Material, fabrics Number of ends 540 566 594 620 646 674

The three-pick pile formation principle

was used in the production of the terry methods applied to the terry fabric sam- ric construction, and the pile warp yarns
fabrics discussed in this study. The prop- ples are explained below. were taken out. The length measurements
erties of 100% cotton weft yarn, ground were carried out according to the stand-
and pile warp yarns are as follows: Measurement of weight per square met- ard ASTM D3883-99 , and then the pile
§ Pile warp - carded ring spun Ne 20/2, re of the fabrics length was calculated for three picks.
twist 216 t/m; Samples were prepared for each of
§ Ground warp - carded ring spun Ne the 72 terry fabric constructions under Measurement of weft, ground warp and
20/2, twist 480 t/m; laboratory conditions, and the weight pile warp ratios
§ Weft yarn - carded ring spun Ne 16/1. per square metre values were measured 10×10 cm of terry fabric samples were
The warp densities in the reed, the weft according to the standard ASTM D3776. cut and the weft yarns, ground warp
densities on the loom and the pile lengths In the measurements, a Sortius electronic yarns and pile warp yarns in each sample
are given in Table 1 for the different terry balance with a precision of 1/10,000 gr were taken out. The weight of each group
fabric constructions woven for the pur- was used. of yarn was measured under laboratory
pose of this research. The terry fabrics conditions using an electronic balance of
were woven at four different weft densi- Measurement of shearing waste of velo- 1/10,000 gr precision. The ratio of each
ties for each warp density by using three ur type terry fabrics group of yarn to the measured sample
different pile lengths. In this way, 72 Terry fabrics are used as a velour type weight was calculated as a percentage
different terry fabric constructions were in some applications. For this purpose, as weft yarn, ground warp yarn and pile
obtained. The warp density, weft density the piles on one side are cut at a certain
warp yarn ratios.
and pile lengths of these terry fabrics height. This process produces some
were chosen to cover the wide range of waste. It is important to determine the
Dimensional stability tests
terry fabric constructions produced in pile waste ratio to correctly calculate
Dimensional stability tests were carried
industry. terry fabric costs. To determine the pile
out according to the AATCC 135/150
waste ratio, the terry fabrics (whose
method. The terry fabric sample dimen-
Method weight per square metre were determined
sions were measured before washing,
Production method of the fabrics in advance) were passed through the pile
cutting machine at the same speed. The and then after three successive washings.
The terry fabrics were produced on a 360 The lengthwise and widthwise dimension
cm-wide Nouva Pignone TPS 500 terry shearing height was adjusted for each
pile height until a satisfactory shearing changes were calculated as percentages.
weaving machine with a dobby. Figure 2
shows the reed specially designed and quality was obtained. Next, the weight
manufactured for this work. There are per square metre of the velour type of the n Calculation of weight per
6 different densities over the width of terry fabrics was measured. By compar- square metre of terry fabrics
the reed, and each reed density is 50 cm ing the pre- and post-cutting weight per
square metre values, the shearing waste There are three yarn systems in a terry
wide. Using this reed made it possible to
ratio was calculated as a percentage. fabric, namely weft yarn, ground warp
weave terry fabrics at 6 different warp
yarn and pile warp yarn. The terry fabric
densities side by side at a time with the
Measurement of pile yarn length weight per square metre can be formu-
same weft density and pile length. In
this way, terry fabrics at 6 different warp The pile length in a terry fabric construc- lated by taking into account the weight of
densities were produced under the same tion affects weight per square metre and each yarn system in a square metre of a
conditions. Table 2 shows the number of the weft, ground warp and pile warp yarn terry fabric. The following is the deriva-
ends for each warp density in the reed. ratios. The pile lengths were determined tion of a terry fabric weight per square
in this work for 72 different terry fabric metre considering the weight of the
Test methods constructions. For this, the 10-cm length three-yarn system. The Ne-numbering
The measurements and measurement samples were prepared for each terry fab- system is used in the formulation.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / June 2005, Vol. 13, No. 2 (50) 21
 sity and weft density on the widthwise
(1) and lengthwise contractions.
(5)
With Anova tests conducted with a 95%
where: confidence interval, no significant effect
- the weight of weft yarn in a square of pile length on after washing contrac-
metre of terry fabric, g tions was found. However, the weft den-
- the weft density, picks/cm (6) sity and warp density had a significant
- the weft yarn crimp, % effect on the lengthwise and widthwise
- the weft yarn count, Ne. contractions respectively. The decrease
In the ‘Results and Discussion’ part, in lengthwise contraction is not sig-
the calculated weight per square metre nificant with the increase in weft density
(2)
values are compared with those already up to 19.5 picks/cm. At 19.5 picks/cm,
measured to test the validity of these it becomes significant. Similarly, the
where: equations in practice. widthwise contraction decreases after
- the weight of ground warp yarn in 12 ends/cm warp density on the reed.
a square metre of terry fabric, g n Results and Discussion Up to 12 ends/cm warp density, no sig-
- the ground warp density, ends/cm nificant change in widthwise contraction
- the crimp of ground warp yarn, % Analysis of dimensional changes in is observed. The widthwise contraction
- the ground warp yarn count, Ne. terry fabrics after washing is around 10.0% at 10.0 ends/cm warp
Table 3 shows the widthwise and length- density, while it is about 7.0% when
(3) wise contractions of the terry fabrics the warp density is 12.5 ends/cm. It was
after the washing process. In general, the also found out in Anova tests with a 95%
widthwise and lengthwise contractions confidence interval that the weft density
where: vary between 5.6% and 11.8% depending had some effect on the widthwise con-
- the weight of pile warp yarn in on the construction of the terry fabrics. traction, and the warp density had almost
a square metre of terry fabric, g Statistical tests were carried out to ana- as significant an effect as weft density on
- one pile length, mm. lyse the effect of pile length, warp den- the lengthwise contraction.
The weight per square metre of a terry
fabric Table 3. The widthwise and lengthwise contractions after washing in percent; W - represents
widthwise contraction and L - represents lengthwise contraction.

Contractions after washing, %

Weft at warp density in the reed, ends/cm
Pile height,
density,
mm 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
picks/cm
W L W L W L W L W L W L
(4)
6.8 8.9 8.1 7.9 8.9 8.8 7.4 8.7 8.9 7.8 9.0 6.8 9.0
9.3 9.8 8.1 9.8 8.9 9.7 8.1 8.7 9.8 6.8 9.8 5.8 9.8
16.0
11.2 9.8 7.3 9.8 8.9 9.7 8.1 9.6 9.7 6.8 8.9 7.7 9.0
7.1 9.9 6.8 8.9 7.8 7.9 7.0 7.8 7.8 8.7 -1.9 6.8 8.8
9.4 9.9 7.7 9.8 7.8 8.8 8.6 8.7 7.8 7.8 8.7 6.8 9.6
- the weight per square metre of 17.1
11.0 9.9 7.7 9.8 8.6 9.7 9.4 8.7 8.6 7.7 9.5 7.7 8.7
a terry fabric, g. 6.6 11.7 7.2 10.8 8.1 9.8 7.3 9.7 8.2 7.8 8.2 6.9 9.2
9.3 10.9 6.3 10.8 8.1 9.8 8.1 8.7 8.2 8.7 8.2 6.8 9.2
18.0
As seen from equation (4), the weight per 11.2 10.9 7.1 11.8 7.2 9.8 8.1 8.8 8.2 7.8 8.2 6.8 10.0
6.6 10.0 5.8 10.9 5.9 9.9 6.9 8.8 7.8 8.8 7.9 7.8 7.9
square metre of a terry fabric changes lin-
9.2 9.9 6.8 10.8 6.9 9.8 6.9 9.7 7.8 7.8 7.8 6.9 7.9
early with warp density, weft density and 19.5
11.2 9.9 5.6 10.8 6.7 8.8 7.9 9.8 7.9 7.8 8.0 7.8 8.0
pile length. It is essential to use the exact
values of the yarn counts, the warp and
Table 4. Weight per square metre of the terry fabrics before shearing.
weft densities, together with warp and
weft crimps and pile length in equation Weft Pile Weight per square metre, g/cm2
(4) to obtain results as close as possible density, length, at warp density in the reed, ends/cm
picks/cm mm
to the measured weight per square me- 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
tre. In the terry fabric production sector, 6.8 336.0 345.0 361.0 377.0 388.0 403.0
9.3 413.0 426.0 441.0 464.0 494.0 507.0
companies mainly use standard warp and 16.0
11.2 483.0 502.0 528.0 552.0 568.0 588.0
weft yarn counts as well as warp density. 7.1 360.0 370.0 387.0 399.0 408.0 436.0
For a required terry fabric weight per 9.4 450.0 464.0 493.0 496.0 510.0 531.0
17.1
square metre, the weft density and pile 11.0 517.0 534.0 553.0 560.0 579.0 609.0
6.6 375.0 376.0 398.0 405.0 421.0 434.0
length remain two parameters to be ad-
9.3 471.0 486.0 512.0 515.0 532.0 550.0
justed. Equations (5) and (6) are derived 18.0
11.2 531.0 551.0 581.0 587.0 604.0 628.0
for the calculation of the weft density and 6.6 384.0 403.0 422.0 428.0 445.0 460.0
the pile length for a given fabric weight 19.5
9.2 502.0 517.0 539.0 549.0 569.0 586.0
11.2 545.0 579.0 601.0 616.0 645.0 668.0
per square metre.

22 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / June 2005, Vol. 13, No. 2 (50)
The lengthwise and widthwise contrac- warp density on weight per square metre terry fabrics in this study are within the
tions can be explained as follows; when is two-fold. An increase in warp and/or range for industrial application. The data
terry fabrics get wet, the internal stress weft density increases the weight per in Table 5 can be very useful in practice
in the yarns is removed, and the volume square metre due to an increase in the for calculating the necessary amount
of cotton yarns increases because of the amount of ground warp and/or weft yarn of the weft yarn, ground and pile warp
swelling of cotton fibres. As a resul, the in a square metre on the one hand, and on yarns for a terry fabric to be produced.
yarns have to follow a longer path around the other increases the total pile length Normally in industry, the calculations are
each other, and this causes contractions in due to the increase in the number of pile carried out by taking the pile warp ratio
the lengthwise and widthwise directions. in a square metre . A close examination at 70.0%, the ground warp ratio at 15.0%
When there is sufficient space between of the data in the table shows that the and the weft yarn ratio at 15.0%. How-
the yarns, the change in the yarn volume is weight per square metre changes linearly ever, the results in the table show that
fully reflected to the widthwise and length- with weft density, warp density and pile the ratios of weft yarn, ground and pile
wise fabric contractions. As the fabric gets length, as equation (4) indicates. warp yarns differ significantly from these
denser, the space between the yarns de- assumed ratios. This deviation leads to
creases, and after some contractions the The ratios of weft yarn, ground warp the wrong cost as well as the wrong yarn
yarns rest on each other and prevent any and pile warp in the terry fabric con- requirement calculations. The wrong
more contractions. As the weft density is structions are presented in Table 5 as yarn requirement calculations can cause
lower than the warp density and the weft percentages. Pile warp yarns constitute interruptions in production because of a
yarn is finer than warp yarn, the effect of the largest portion of terry fabric weight. shortage of the required yarn, or stock
warp density on lengthwise contraction is As shown in the table, the pile warp build-up due to an excess amount of
more significant than the effect of the weft constitutes between 65.0% and 79.0% of the required yarn. The data presented in
density on the widthwise contraction. the total weight, depending on the terry Table 5 should be expanded to cover the
fabric construction and pile length. The warp density, weft density and the pile
It was observed during the production weft yarn ratio fluctuates between 9.0% heights used in a company, and should
of terry fabrics that both the lengthwise and 15.0% and the ground warp yarn be taken as a reference in the production
and lengthwise weaving contractions ratio varies between 11.0% and 20.0%. of terry fabrics. Also, the weft yarn ratio,
were around between 1.5% and 2.0% Changing warp density while keeping the ground warp yarn and pile warp yarn
and therefore the weft and warp densities the weft density and pile length constant ratios can be prepared as ,
increased by the same amount in the terry causes no significant change in the pile and by using the mathematical
fabrics after being taken off the loom. warp yarn ratio. However, the weft den- approach given on page 22.
sity change between 16.0 picks/cm and
Analysis of weight per square metre of 19.5 picks/cm increases the pile warp The terry fabrics are sometimes used
terry fabrics yarn ratio up to 4.0% depending on the with the piles shorn on one side, i.e.
The weight per square metre of the terry terry fabric construction. Changing the velour-type terry fabric. In this case, it
fabrics before the shearing process is pile length between its low and high val- is important to keep shearing waste at
presented in Table 4. As expected, the in- ues caused a change of around 10.0% in a minimum to reduce the terry fabric
crease in weft density, warp density and the pile warp yarn ratio. Although these production costs. It is also important to
pile length increase the weight per square values may show some variations with know the shearing waste ratio in order
metre. The increase in pile length causes the use of different yarn counts, they to obtain the correct finished terry fabric
the weight per square metre to increase reflect the general situation regarding weight per square metre, and to cor-
because of an increase in total pile warp the terry fabric structure, because the rectly calculate the amount of pile warp
length in a square metre of a terry fabric. yarn counts, warp and weft densities yarn required for a certain terry fabric.
However, the effect of weft density and and pile lengths used to produce the The face of terry fabrics produced for

Table 5. The Ratio of pile warp, ground yarn, and weft warp yarns in the terry fabrics; PW - the pile warp ratio, GW - the ground warp
ratio, W - the weft yarn ratio.

Ratio of pile warp, ground yarn, and weft warp yarns,

Weft Pile at warp density in the reed, dents/cm
density, length,
picks/cm mm 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
PW GW W PW GW W PW GW W PW GW W PW GW W PW GW W
6.8 65.2 19.6 15.2 65.2 20.0 14.8 65.9 19.9 14.1 67.1 19.4 13.5 66.8 20.1 13.1 67.2 20.1 12.7
9.3 71.7 16.0 12.3 71.8 16.2 12.0 72.1 16.3 11.6 73.3 15.7 11.0 73.9 15.8 10.3 74.0 16.0 10.1
16.0
11.2 75.8 13.7 10.6 76.1 13.7 10.2 76.7 13.6 9.7 77.5 13.2 9.2 77.3 13.7 9.0 77.6 13.8 8.7
7.1 67.5 17.8 14.7 67.3 18.4 14.3 67.2 18.9 14.0 68.4 18.3 13.3 67.9 19.1 13.0 69.3 18.6 12.2
17.1 9.4 74.0 14.2 11.8 73.9 14.7 11.4 74.2 14.8 11.0 74.6 14.7 10.7 74.3 15.3 10.4 75.2 15.0 9.8
11.0 77.4 12.4 10.3 77.2 12.7 10.1 77.0 13.2 9.8 77.5 13.0 9.5 77.4 13.5 9.2 78.0 13.3 8.7
6.6 66.7 17.9 15.5 67.0 18.1 14.9 67.3 18.3 14.3 68.4 18.0 13.6 68.2 18.8 13.1 68.7 18.7 12.7
18.0 9.3 73.5 14.2 12.3 74.9 13.8 11.3 74.6 14.3 11.1 75.1 14.2 10.7 74.8 14.8 10.3 75.3 14.7 10.0
11.2 76.5 12.6 10.9 77.9 12.2 10.0 77.8 12.6 9.6 78.2 12.4 9.4 77.8 13.1 9.1 78.3 12.9 8.8
6.6 67.4 15.9 16.7 68.0 16.9 15.1 68.2 17.3 14.5 68.7 17.5 13.8 69.4 17.3 13.3 69.8 17.4 12.8
19.5 9.2 75.1 12.2 12.7 75.0 13.2 11.8 75.1 13.5 11.3 75.6 13.7 10.7 76.1 13.5 10.4 76.3 13.7 10.1
11.2 77.1 11.2 11.7 77.7 11.7 10.5 77.7 12.1 10.1 78.2 12.2 9.6 78.9 11.9 9.1 78.7 12.4 8.8

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / June 2005, Vol. 13, No. 2 (50) 23
the purpose of this study was shorn to Table 6. The shearing waste ratios in percent.
determine the shearing waste ratio for
different terry fabric constructions. The Weft Pile Shearing waste ratios, %
density, length, at warp density in the reed, ends/cm
shearing height in the machine was ad-
picks/cm mm 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
justed depending on different pile heights
until the satisfactory shearing quality was 6.8 12.5 13.0 10.8 14.1 14.4 13.4
16.0 9.3 10.2 11.7 12.0 12.1 13.4 13.8
obtained. The shearing waste ratios are
11.2 13.7 14.7 15.2 15.2 13.2 13.3
presented in Table 6 as percentages. As 7.1 13.3 13.5 14.5 11.5 11.3 14.7
seen from the table, the shearing waste 17.1 9.4 14.2 14.9 14.4 11.7 15.5 14.9
ratios change between 9.4% and 17.4% 11.0 13.5 13.9 14.3 14.6 13.8 14.5
for different fabric constructions, and the 6.6 13.9 12.2 12.6 12.6 13.3 13.6
concentration is around between 13.0% 18.0 9.3 13.4 14.4 14.5 13.0 13.2 14.6
11.2 16.6 17.4 17.2 12.8 12.8 15.9
and 14.0%. When the shearing waste
6.6 13.5 13.7 13.7 13.1 13.3 13.7
ratios are analysed, no logical relation 19.5 9.2 14.7 13.9 14.3 14.4 14.6 14.3
is found between the shearing waste and 11.2 9.4 10.7 12.5 11.7 14.3 14.7
weft density, warp density or pile height.
However, some comments can be made Table 7. The calculated weight per square metre for 72 different terry fabric constructions.
about the shearing waste regarding the
terry fabric construction based on prac- Weft Pile Weight per square metre
tical experience. It is important for the density, length, at warp density in the reed, ends/cm
piles to be as vertical as possible during picks/cm mm 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5
shearing. Increasing the pile height re- 6.8 345 359 376 390 402 416
duces its bending rigidity, which adverse- 16.0
9.3 427 445 464 485 500 519
ly affects the shearing quality. Because of 11.2 492 514 535 554 575 596
this, it is necessary to cut the piles more 7.1 365 380 395 409 424 439
9.4 452 471 491 510 529 549
deeply, which naturally increases the 17.1
11.0 518 541 564 586 609 632
shearing waste. At very low pile heights, 6.6 381 397 412 428 444 459
it is expected that the shearing waste ratio 9.3 473 493 514 534 554 574
18.0
will increase because the shearing waste 11.2 543 567 591 614 638 662
constitutes a larger portion of the total 6.6 406 423 440 456 473 489
pile weight of a terry fabric, compared to 9.2 506 527 549 571 592 614
19.5
11.2 581 607 632 657 683 708
terry fabrics with a higher piles. In gen-
eral, the shearing height on the machine
is not often adjusted in factories because Table 8. The ‘x’ distance, the measured and calculated pile lengths.
of time restrictions and some fabric
‘x’ distance, Measured pile length, Calculated pile length, Weight/m2,
waste. A reduction of a few percent in the mm mm mm g
shearing waste ratio will be a significant 7.0 7.5 7.5 433.0
gain when the yearly production of a 9.0 8.8 8.4 466.0
company is considered. Therefore, the 10.5 10.3 10.2 536.0
optimum values of shearing waste should
be determined according to the satisfac-
tory shearing quality for different fabric
700
Calculated weight, g/m2

constructions in the factories.

600
Comparison of the calculated and
measured results of weight per square 500
metre of terry fabrics
400
The weight per square metre of 72 dif- Figure 3. Regres-
ferent terry fabric constructions were cal- sion curve between 300
theoretically calcu-
culated using equation (4) to see to what lated and measured 300 400 500 600 700
extent the calculated weight per square weight per square Measured weight, g/m2
metre values match with the measured values.
ones. The calculated weight per square
metre values are presented in Table 7. the measured values are very close to the calculated and measured values due
The measured values were given in Ta- each other. The correlation coefficient to the variations in the weft and warp
ble 4. As the weight per square metre is between the calculated and measured yarn counts, as well as errors in measur-
measured for the off-loom terry fabrics, values was found to be 0.994. This value ing warp and weft crimps as well as the
the off-loom terry fabric warp and weft ndicates no significant difference and a pile length etc. Despite this, the calcu-
densities, 2.0% weaving contractions very strong match between the measured lated weight per square metre values of
and the measured pile lengths were used and calculated values. In some fabric the terry fabrics are mostly within the
in the calculations. It is clearly seen in constructions, there is a deviation of up acceptable practical limits. This result
Table 4 and 7 that the calculated and to 7.0%. The deviations occur between shows that the mathematical approach

24 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / June 2005, Vol. 13, No. 2 (50)
can be used in practice. Even if some this paper, and has been successfully used ence in obtaining the required weight
deviation occurs between the calculated in a company producing terry fabrics. per square metre. The mathematical
and the measured weight per square me- approach introduced in this paper
tre, the calculated weight per square me- enables the terry fabric weaver to start
tre can be taken as a first approximation. n Conclusion production with minimum waste and
Then, the desired weight per square me- The following conclusions have been time loss. Also, this mathematical ap-
tre can be reached with small alterations drawn from the experimental and theo- proach can be adopted to calculate the
very quickly. In this way, the dependence retical study on terry fabrics: ‘x’ distance on new-generation terry
on the experience for the adjustment of § The widthwise and lengthwise con- weaving machines, in which the pile
weight per square metre of terry fabrics is tractions of terry fabrics after they are formation mechanism is servo-motor
largely eliminated, and the waste during taken from the loom were found to be driven and computer-controlled.
the trials is reduced to a minimum. between 1.5-2.0% in the experiments
covering a wide range of terry fabric
Figure 3 shows the regression curve constructions. The contractions after Acknowledgement
between the measured and theoretically washing changed between 5.0% and We would like to express our sincere thanks to
calculated weight per square metre val- 11.0% depending on the terry fabric the Penta Textile Company for the production
ues. x and y represent the measured and construction. The pile length did not of the terry fabrics used in this research.
theoretically calculated values respec- have any effect on contractions either
tively. The regression equation is found during weaving or after washing. The
as follows. increase in weft density only caused a
Editional remark
reduction in the lengthwise contrac- 1) As all data and calculations have been
y = 1.0496 x - 7.616 tion after washing at 19.5 picks/cm; formulation in the English Ne-count-system,
similarly, the warp density increase exceptionally this system has been accepted
Regression analysis also shows a very in this paper, instead of the obligatory descrip-
only reduced the after-washing width-
good match between the theoretically tion of the linear density in tex.
wise contraction after 12.0 ends/cm.
calculated and measured weight per The warp density change also had a
square metre values. significant effect on the lengthwise References
contraction. However, the effect of 1. Sulzer Ruti, Terry fabric technical docu-
A series of further experiments were weft density on widthwise contraction ment, drawing no: 0008/04.07.95/BRI.
conducted to find out whether the ‘x’ was found to be less significant. 2. Grosicki Z J, Watson’s Advanced Textile
distance is equal to the pile length. The § The shearing waste changed between Design: Compound Woven Structures
results of the experiments are given in 9.4% and 17.4% depending on the (Newnes-Butterworths, London), 1977,
Table 8. There is a maximum of about fabric construction. No logical rela- 274.
0.5 mm deviation between the ‘x’ dis- tion was found between the shearing 3. Goerner D, Woven Structure and Design:
tance and the measured or calculated waste and terry fabric constructional Part 2 – Compound Structures (BTTG Pu-
pile lengths, which is within the accuracy blication, Leeds), 1989, 90.
parameters.
4. Kienbaum M, ITB Weaving, January
limits of the millimetre ruler used in the § The calculated and measured weight 1977, 9.
pile length measurements. Therefore, the per square metre values of terry fab- 5. Frontczak-Wasiak I., Snycerski M., Use
calculated pile length of a terry fabric can rics produced for the experiments Properties of Terry Woven Fabrics, Fibres
be used to adjust ‘x’ distance on the pile show a very close agreement. A & Textiles in Eastern Europe, vol 12,
formation mechanism of a terry weaving similar agreement was found between No 1 (2004), 40.
machine. the ‘x’ distance and the measured and 6. Kienbaum M, ITB Weaving, February
calculated pile lengths. This result 1977, 103.
A computer program has been written for largely eliminates the dependence
the mathematical approach presented in of terry fabric producers on experi- Received 22.04.2004 Reviewed 19.01.2005

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe April / June 2005, Vol. 13, No. 2 (50) 25