Summer

2021

CURLY
COLOURED
HAIR TIPS
JADE
JEWELLERY
SNEAKER
COLLECTING

INDIGENOUS
DESIGN’S new
CHAMPION

SUPERMODEL

FERNANDA LY ON #STOPASIANHATE
$5.99 DISPL AY UNTI L AUG . 9
 SUMMER 2021

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LILY & LILAC. BLAZER, $3,716, NINA RICCI. FACE MASK, PRICE UPON REQUEST, SCHIAPARELLI. EARRINGS, $310, NINON.

Discover... 62
VOILA!
16 NEWS 20 JEWELLERY 101
A trippy Fendi collab, Andy Warhol Jade is said to have supernatural powers, and
wigs at the Art Gallery of Ontario, new Chinese imperial elites were buried in whole suits
Canadian designer shops and more. of it. For the rest of us, earrings or a pendant
will do just fine.
18 SEEING STARS
Hailey Bieber, J.Lo and Gigi Hadid 22 WRIST ACTION
are among the fans of this Canadian The futurism trend that hit the watch world in the ’70s
eyewear brand. is back with digital displays and tech-inspired styling.
 SUMMER 2021

What’s
Inside
24 #BIGMOOD
Odessa Paloma Parker
offers ways to find gratitude
in the great outdoors.

26 GET TO KNOW
Ryerson University
professor Riley Kucheran

KNUCKLES. TOP, $2,655, PANTS, $1,040, AND SHOES, $1,000, GIVENCHY. HAT, $5, IN SHOES. RIGHT: JUMPSUIT, $4,875, AND SHOES, $1,250, HERMÈS. SUNGLASSES, $615, DITA.
PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) NATASHA GERSCHON; (OPPOSITE PAGE) CALIXTE-BEA BY ESTHER “QUEEN ESIE” CALIXTE-BEA. (THIS PAGE) LEFT: ANORAK, $450, MOOSE
grew up in a small
community in Ontario. But
his ideas for changing the
fashion world are vast.

28 DETAILS
Jennifer Younger draws on
her Tlingit heritage for
jewellery that honours the
past but looks to the future.

30 MERCH
The pastel of the season,
summer’s hottest denim,
slip-on sandals and chic
designer diversions.

38 FASHION X RBC
Dreaming of a fashion trip
to Paris? We’ve got tips on
how to save for it and what
to do when you get there.

40 ROAD TRIP
You don’t have to venture
far for a refreshing change

76
of scene. Four style-
minded Canadians share
their favourite picnic spots,
ice cream parlours and
other motoring musts.
20
CANVAS
50 ACTIVISM
Montreal-based artist
Esther Calixte-Bea is
challenging unattainable
beauty standards by
championing female
body hair.

52 SHELFIE
The Kaia Gerber-Marc
Jacobs connection, Helen
Mirren on why she’s
makeup mad, even during
the pandemic, and more.

54 TEXTURE TALK
Colouring super-curly hair
can require extra care. We
asked the experts how to
get the best results.

56 REGIMENS
Thanks to performers like
Beyoncé, R&B artist TiKA

50
feels pressured to deliver
more than just music. Here
is how she does it.

58 ICON
The world’s most famous
fragrance is turning 100.
Tynan Sinks looks into the 76 TREND 96 ESSAY
legacy of Chanel No. 5. Bold monochromatic Writer Lynn Crosbie gave
colours are the best way up heels many years

INSPO to make a standout style

statement this summer.
ago for good reason:
an encounter with
62 COVER STORY
Supermodel Fernanda Ly 92 COLLECTING
danger that forced her
to run barefoot.
On the Cover
has more cause for anxiety Toronto artist Briony Blazer, $2,945, cardigan,
$975, bra, price upon request,
than many in COVID times, Douglas shares the results 98 ♥ IT FOREVER
shorts, $975, bike shorts, $275,
but she’s doing her best to of her sneaker obsession A temptation with till-death- bag, $1,925, necklace, $500,
focus on the silver linings. and how she gets her kicks. do-us-part potential. bracelet, $700, Versace.
 editor-in-Chief
bernadette morra
CreatiVe & Fashion DireCtor
george antonopoulos

Fashion neWs DireCtor Digital DireCtor beauty DireCtor

odessa paloma parker Jennifer berry natasha boateng (on leave)

aCting Fashion eDitor assoCiate art DireCtor aCting beauty DireCtor

elaine Jyll regio danielle campbell souzan michael galway

ProDuCtion eDitor CoPy eDitors/ProoFreaDers Contributing Western eDitor

lindsay cooper marjorie dunham-landry Joy pecknold
Jane fielding

Contributors Vanessa baudner, Jacqueline benn schuppe, laurie brookins, pierina carlin, mishal cazmi, chris cook, lynn crosbie,
beka shane denter, Kayleen dicuangco, caitlin doherty, neil franklyn, nyabel gatkuoth, natasha gerschon, tomomi gonzalez,
eliza grossman, ben Jones, Kyla, daVian lain, danielle levasseur, lily & lilac, sarah mariotti, elina ogawa, anjli patel,
lucia perna, sabrina rinaldi, tynan sinks, allie smith, stephen, ingrie williams, clara young

publiSher
Ken hunt
V.P. Content & CreatiVe
maryam sanati
sPeCial ProJeCts
charlotte herrold

Managing DireCtor, sales tracy miller ([email protected])

sales Manager, FASHION deidre marinelli ([email protected])

ProDuCtion Manager caroline potter

St. JoSeph CommuniCationS, media Group

ChairMan tony gagliano
ViCe-Chair John gagliano
PresiDent anD Publisher, sJC MeDia Ken hunt
s.V.P. reVenue, sJM MeDia lynn chambers
V.P. strategy duncan clark
V.P. oPerations anD teChnology sean mccluskey
DireCtor, CustoMer suCCess terry smith
Managing DireCtor, branDeD Content sasha emmons
Managing DireCtor, Marketing nadine silverthorne
Managing DireCtor, ConsuMer reVenue allan yue
Managing DireCtor, researCh anD ConsuMer insights clarence poirier
Marketing DireCtor Jessika J. fink
Controller dora brenndorfer

fa s h i o n m ag a z i n e 1 5 b e n to n r oa d, to r o n to, o n m 6 m 3 g 2 p h o n e 41 6 - 2 4 8 - 4 8 6 8
m o n t r e a l o f f i c e 3 p l ac e V i l l e m a r i e , s u i t e 4 0 0, m o n t r e a l , Q c h 3 b 2 e 3 p h o n e 5 1 4 - 2 8 4 - 2 5 5 2 fa X 5 1 4 - 2 8 4 - 4 4 9 2
f a s h i o n m a g a z i n e s u m m e r 2 0 2 1 · V o l u m e 5 6 i s s u e 5 · p r i n t i n g : s t . J o s e p h p r i n t i n g · d a t e o f i s s u e : m ay 2 0 2 1
subscr i p tion inQu ir ies: 8 3 3-6 32-08 3 3

f a s h i o n m a g a z i n e a n n u a l s u b s c r i p t i o n p r i c e : $ 1 5 . 9 5 p l u s h s t ( 8 i s s u e s , p u b l i s h e d w i n t e r , m a r c h , a p r i l , m ay, s u m m e r , s e p t e m b e r , o c t o b e r a n d n o V e m b e r ) .
s i n g l e c o p i e s : $ 5 . 9 9 . u n i t e d s tat e s , o n e y e a r : $ 2 2 . 9 5 . a l l o t h e r c o u n t r i e s : $ 2 7. 9 5 . t o c h a n g e y o u r s u b s c r i p t i o n a d d r e s s , p l e a s e s e n d y o u r n e w a n d o l d
a d d r e s s e s t o : s u b s c r i p t i o n d e p a r t m e n t , f a s h i o n m a g a z i n e , p. o . b o X 1 1 9 , s t n . m a i n , a l l i s t o n , o n l 9 r 1 t 9 , a t l e a s t s i X w e e K s i n a d V a n c e . t h e p u b l i s h e r
a c c e p t s n o r e s p o n s i b i l i t y f o r a d V e r t i s e r c l a i m s o r u n s o l i c i t e d m a n u s c r i p t s , t r a n s p a r e n c i e s o r o t h e r m at e r i a l s . n o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e m ay b e
r e p r o d u c e d i n a n y f o r m w i t h o u t t h e w r i t t e n p e r m i s s i o n o f t h e p u b l i s h e r . c o p y r i g h t 2 0 2 1 s t. J o s e p h m e d i a i n c . a l l r i g h t s r e s e r V e d . w e a c K n o w l e d g e
t h e f i n a n c i a l s u p p o r t o f t h e g o V e r n m e n t o f c a n a d a . c i r c u l at i o n a u d i t e d b y a l l i a n c e f o r a u d i t e d m e d i a . p u b l i c at i o n s m a i l a g r e e m e n t n o . 4 2 4 9 4 5 1 2 . r e t u r n
u n d e l i V e r a b l e c a n a d i a n a d d r e s s e s t o p. o . b o X 1 1 9 , s t n . m a i n , a l l i s t o n , o n l 9 r 1 t 9 . f a s h i o n m a g a z i n e i s d i s t r i b u t e d b y c o m a g m a r K e t i n g g r o u p. i s s n 1 4 9 6 - 5 7 8 X .

for every ton of paper used on FASHION’s behalf,

st. Joseph communications will contribute to the
planting of a tree through GrandTrees.
 editor's letter FASHION

it’s hard to imagine anyone

hating Fernanda ly.
The supermodel comes off as sweet, smart and socia-
ble in her YouTube videos and her conversation with
FASHION contributor Mishal Cazmi (“Urban Heat,”
page 62). In 2015, during Ly’s first Paris Fashion
Week, Nicolas Ghesquière fell so head over heels for
the Australia-born model that he signed her for a five-
season Louis Vuitton runway exclusive. The rest of
the fashion world soon became just as smitten, and
Ly has been working steadily ever since.
There is no logic to the hate that has resulted in
the verbal and physical abuse of Asians by com-
plete strangers in public places. And that is why
we invited Ly to be our Summer-issue cover star.
We wanted to ask how one of the most in-demand
models today is faring during this disturbing time.
And while Ly hasn’t been attacked per se, she
is no stranger to racism and is acutely aware that
she could easily be a target for violence. As she
tells Cazmi, simply stepping outside her New York
apartment is “very scary.”
It wasn’t an encounter with racial hate that
prompted Lynn Crosbie to give up heels (“Treading
Carefully,” page 96). Towering over people made her feel strong, writes Crosbie, until she needed a quick
escape from trouble and felt trapped. Her flats of choice became Dr. Martens, but Crosbie observes how the
PhotograPhy by george antonoPoulos. toP, $3,400, Pants, $3,600, and shoes, Price uPon request, hermès.

sneaker trend that has taken hold these past few years has an added upside: It’s footwear that allows women
to run like hell when the need arises.
You don’t have to convince Briony Douglas of the benefits of sneakers (“Getting Her Kicks,” page 92). The
Toronto-based visual artist is a serious collector, packing her home with prizes such as Melody Ehsani’s Wmns
Air Jordan 1 Mid “Fearless” style and the Rick Owens “Dunks” that prompted a cease-and-desist order from
Nike. One of Douglas’s recent commissions is also a shoe: a nearly-2.5-metre Stan Smith sneaker sculpture
made from close to 10,000 bottle caps.
Collecting can produce satisfaction on many levels: There’s the successful hunt for a long-coveted piece,
the ownership of something rare that others admire, the privilege of stewarding a piece that will ultimately be
passed along and the documentation of a certain point in history through objects. Collections can even gain
cultural significance, which is why so many wind up in museums.
But amassing treasures requires consumption, an issue that Riley Kucheran is very plugged into. In his chat
with fashion news director Odessa Paloma Parker (page 26), the Ryerson University professor calls himself
“anti-capitalist and probably anti-fashion, too.” So what’s a guy like that doing teaching in a fashion school?
Read his thought-provoking interview to find out.
Finally, Tynan Sinks takes a close look at Chanel No. 5, which
turns 100 this year (“Scents of Time,” page 58). Whenever I see
that iconic bottle, I am reminded of my mother sitting at her
vanity as she performed her morning makeup ritual in a cloud of
cigarette smoke. A dab of Chanel No. 5 was always the final touch,
Bernadette Morra, Editor-in-Chief
to obscure any traces of tobacco. @bernadettemorra
If only the hate in some people’s hearts could be cured as easily. [email protected]

summer 2021 13
 aqua bomb

Instant Blast of Aqua!

The true cream-aqua bomb
Experience explosive hydration with this lightweight gel-cream
that boosts hydration levels by 70% for a smooth, glowing appearance.

Dermatologist tested Over 4 million units sold worldwide

avon.ca @belifcanada
 VOILA!
PEOPLE • PIECES • PERSPECTIVES

BLUE CRUSH
TEXT BY ODESSA PALOMA PARKER. PHOTOGRAPHY: CLOTHING COURTESY OF MIU MIU; BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK.

For its new Upcycled by

Miu Miu collection, the Italian
brand has teamed up with
Levi Strauss & Co. to present
an elevated take on the notion
of “refreshed” garments—and
second chances have never
looked so quintessentially cool.
A variety of denim workwear
pieces from the 1980s and
’90s, including trucker jackets
and jeans, have been detailed
with distinctly Miu Miu motifs
like hand-done leather
patchwork and crystal and
pearl embellishments. These
one-of-a-kind pieces will be
snapped up quickly, so you’d
better get moving.
VOILA! NEWS

FRIGHT TAKE
Proffering highlights
from the prolific 40-year
span of Andy Warhol’s
multidisciplinary output,
an eponymous new
exhibit at the Art Gallery
of Ontario will showcase
works from self-portraits
to the pop art progenitor’s
renderings of the famous
(Marilyn Monroe) and the
famously mundane (cans
of Campbell’s soup). Also

TEXT BY ODESSA PALOMA PARKER. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) FENDI COURTESY OF FENDI; WARHOL BY ANDY WARHOL, SELF PORTRAIT 1986. ACRYLIC PAINT
AND SCREEN-PRINT ON CANVAS, 203.2 X 203.2 CM. PRESENTED BY JANET WOLFSON DE BOTTON, 1996. TATE © 2020 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE
included will be a trio of

VISUAL ARTS, INC/SOCAN (2021). PHOTO: © TATE, LONDON 2021; (OPPOSITE PAGE) @WATCHINGNEWYORK BY JOHNNY CIRILLO/CIRILLO PHOTOGRAPHY.
wigs, the likes of which
played an integral role
in how Warhol examined
and personally explored
the notions of identity and
disguise. Initially wearing
wigs to mask his thinning
hair, Warhol began using

Swirl
them as a way to play
with his persona, dyeing
and styling them with
his real hair exposed

Guide
underneath. The tonsorial
toppers—of which Warhol
was said to own over a
hundred—were handmade
by Paul Bochicchio of the
s part of Fendi’s FF Vertigo capsule collection—which

A
legendary Hairpieces by
sees the brand’s logo reimagined with a psychedelic slant— Paul, a boîte once located
creative Sarah Coleman was tapped to give a further twist in Midtown Manhattan.
to the Italian house’s updated monogram for a selection
That’s wigging out in quite
of items. You’ll find pieces like the Peekaboo X-Tote and
Baguette 1997 splashed with the wavy fish-eye lens look of Coleman’s a luxe way. Andy Warhol
contribution to the collection (which additionally offers a range of ready- runs from July 17
to-wear children’s goods and lifestyle wares, such as a skateboard). An to October 24.
assortment of watches boasts the playful ’70s-meets-’90s FF Vertigo
motif as well—giving “time warp” an entirely new, and chic, meaning.

16 SUMMER 2021
 news VOILA!

SHOPTALK
Despite a tumultuous year for fashion
creatives around the world, here’s a heart-
ening Canadian update: the recent arrival
of three independent boutiques in Ontario
and Quebec. Toronto-based Ellie Mae’s
flagship space in the city’s Summerhill
neighbourhood boasts not only her locally
produced creations but also Ellie’s Vintage
Closet—a curated selection of one-of-a-
kind items like covetable concert, sports
and graphic tees. (There’s also an in-store
café for a moment of repose.) To the west,
in Oakville, Ont., is the imaginative Anu
Clockwise from top Raina’s inaugural shop. Within it lives a
left: Pieces from range of the designer’s signature printed
Ellie Mae, Alexandre scarves—with artwork done by Raina
Bergeron, Anu Raina
herself—as well as ready-to-wear pieces
and Heirloom
from current and previous seasons. And
to the east, Montreal’s Heirloom and
jewellery artisan Alexandre Bergeron
have teamed up to open a boutique that
features both brands’ assortment of fanciful
handmade wares. And each month, a differ-
ent independent creative will pop up in the
space to exhibit or sell their work. Several
reasons to celebrate after all.

: @watch
A KE in
TT gn Photographer Johnny Cirillo satisfies our appetite for intriguing street
O
H
ew

style with his candid shots of people going about their day on the
K
TO

yo

sidewalks of the Big Apple. He has captured a chilled-out roller

TI K

skater wearing an iridescent fanny pack and Hello Kitty face mask
k

and a flamboyant musician who adorned their guitar with an over-

sized multi-hued scarf—just average New Yorkers who look anything
but ordinary. And the authenticity of their ensembles—something
that’s often missing in hyper-polished fashion week images, in which
those posing are paid to wear certain pieces—is endlessly endearing.

summer 2021 17
VOILA! DESIGN

N ST
IO UE
VIS Q

Doris Ngie, founder of celeb-favoured

eyewear brand Amavii, has set her sights
on a more inclusive industry.
By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER

S
een on the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Hailey Bieber and
Gigi Hadid, Amavii is a standout name in the eyewear
game—but not simply because of its celebrity fans.
Launched by Toronto-raised entrepreneur Doris Ngie,
the brand sets itself apart thanks to its use of novel
materials as well as its attention to customers who have
long been overlooked.

18 SUMMER 2021
 DESIGN VOILA!

IT REALLY DOES ADD

MEANING TO WHAT WE’RE
DOING BECAUSE WE’RE
NOT JUST A BUSINESS;
WE’RE ALSO GIVING BACK.

“We were trying to solve a pain point,” says Ngie about not to mention offering easy exchanges and a three-
what inspired her to start the direct-to-consumer label in year warranty.
2018. “As an Asian woman, I have a wider face and lower Amavii’s skyrocketing success isn’t only due to its focus on
nose bridge. I was shopping in Milan—one of the fashion inclusivity and customer service; the brand’s adoption of
capitals of the world—and looking for sunglasses. I went Aerospace Titanium—an extremely durable, light and strong
from store to store but couldn’t find any- material that has been used in the fine-jew-
thing that fit me.” ellery industry for years—makes its shades
Ngie, whose background is in the comfortable for long periods of wear. Hadid
e-commerce and retail distribution areas of rocked her Amaviis numerous times during
the fashion industry, continued to notice fashion week last year—an interesting point
the lack of range in the optical space and considering street style traditionally empha-
wondered why there weren’t “sizing sizes newness in one’s wardrobe, not how
options for eyewear like there are for cloth- versatile and long-wearing an item should be.
ing.” She looked further into the issue by “It was a key moment for our brand,”
asking others about their experiences shop- Ngie says of Hadid’s repeat wears of
ping for glasses and realized that people JENNIFER LOPEZ Amavii’s “Benjamin” aviator style, adding
found many styles weren’t suited to their that celebrities have many options when it
particular needs. Some even admitted to comes to what they wear. “The fact that
buying children’s glasses because other they’re organically choosing to wear our
items didn’t fit properly, while others spoke sunglasses validates that we’re doing the
of the physical discomfort that came from right thing here.”
wearing ill-fitting and heavy eyewear.
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN COURTESY OF AMAVII; LOPEZ BY JAMES DEVANEY/GC IMAGES VIA GETTY;

And speaking of doing the right thing,

Determined to address these oversights, Ngie points to Amavii’s partnership with
IMAN VIA @CHANELIMAN/INSTAGRAM; HADID BY MARC PIASECKI/GC IMAGES VIA GETTY.

Ngie devised three fit options for the Trees.org as another critical aspect of the
bounty of styles Amavii would come to company’s recipe for success. Thanks to its
offer, which vary from classic shapes to “Buy a Pair, Plant a Tree” campaign, the
CHANEL IMAN
more fashion-forward silhouettes, like the brand has contributed to the planting of
quirky geometric “Piago.” Customers can over 20,000 trees so far.
take a brief fit quiz online to find out “It really does add meaning to what we’re
which size is best for them and receive doing because we’re not just a business;
recommendations on styles—a boon con- we’re also giving back,” says Ngie, noting
sidering how little IRL shopping we do that the brand has also donated to COVID-
these days. 19 response support and breast cancer orga-
Ngie—whose current favourite pair is nizations in the past. “Climate change is
the new “Mylo” shape that comes in a something that’s always on my mind, and
variety of colourful pops—notes that the I’m always considering what sort of world
fact that she sees so many repeat customers GIGI HADID
we want to leave for the next generation”—
is a testament to the benefit of providing which isn’t surprising, considering that
them with this very personalized service, looking forward is certainly Ngie’s forte. n

SUMMER 2021 19
VOILA! MASTER CLASS

Nephrite and
sterling silver ring,
$255, Ora-C
Green jade,
pavé diamond
and 18 karat
rose gold
necklace,
$7,200,
Bulgari

B
eing Chinese-
Canadian, I have, nat-
urally, been an expert
on jade since I was a
toddler. By osmosis, I
By CLARA YOUNG

learned to covet pieces

of light-avocado jade
that have what my
mother calls a “creamy” quality. Jade
also has the supernatural power of
protection, which is why little old
Chinese ladies who wear jade bangles
live long enough to become little old
JADE

ladies. Stories abound of these brace-

lets cracking at strangely significant
moments, literally breaking a spell of
poor health or financial trouble. This is
what makes jade a little spooky—it’s IT’S ACTUALLY TWO MINERALS
not a stone that fractures easily.
Geologically speaking, jade is, in fact,
J E W E L L E RY 101

an umbrella term for two different kinds

of minerals whose colours range from
green to lavender and even greyish
white: jadeite and nephrite, which were
not distinguished until the 1800s. Both
are extraordinarily tough, but nephrite,
with its calcium magnesium iron silicate,
Jadeite, opal, is slightly softer than jadeite. Jadeite’s
freshwater structure of sodium aluminum silicate
pearl and crystals rivals that of diamonds in
10 karat gold durability. Nephrite scores between
earrings,
6 and 6.5 on the Mohs scale of hard-
$470, Ren
ness, while jadeite, which is formed in
low-temperature, high-pressure con-
ditions at tectonic fault lines, can
PHOTOGRAPHY: ORA-C COURTESY OF ORA-C

score as high as 7.

IT’S TOUGH
Jade boulders are difficult to mine because they must be cut out of mountainsides using diamond
saws. Archaeological digs going back to neolithic times are littered with jade weaponry. The Maori of
New Zealand fashioned the stone into hammers, axes and spearheads, and the Meso-American Olmec
crafted jade tools around 1000 BC. While other hard stones will shatter under immense pressure and
smashing blows, jade not only stays intact but also rings beautifully. The Chinese made instruments
out of jade, including something close to a xylophone.

20 SUMMER 2021
 master class VOILA!

White jade WHY YOU SHOULD

and 18 karat SHOP CANADIAN
gold cuff,
$24,900, Beauty, toughness and rarity are what
Tiffany & Co. make jade a good investment stone.
Jade and Pre-Columbian Meso-American
18 karat gold
civilizations only had one source for
plated brass
ring, $3,100, their bluish-green jade: what is now
Bottega Veneta Guatemala. These mines were worked
at Ssense in for millennia but then lost with the
1519 arrival of the Spanish, who were
more interested in gold and silver.
The Olmec mines were rediscovered
in 2002, but their locations have
been kept secret to prevent looting.
Jade and sterling Myanmar is the world’s most abundant
silver earrings,
source of precious jadeite, called
$105, Yuun
“imperial jade,” but it comes at a
heavy human cost. Myanmese “blood
jade” has been mined illegally and
smuggled out of the country. Over the
IT HAS MYSTICAL PROPERTIES years, thousands of people have lost
their lives in poorly constructed mines
The Spanish called jade piedra de ijada, which means
that collapsed, triggering deadly land-
“stone for the pain in the side.” Its healing powers
slides. But the market price for jade in
are distinctly attuned to unromantic ailments of the
China is so high that people continue
kidneys, spleen and liver. And when jade’s protection
to take their chances and excavate it.
runs afoul of death, it escorts its owner into the hap-
As the saying goes: Gold is valuable,
piest possible afterlife. Jade beads have been found in
but jade is priceless. There is an
the mouths of the deceased in Meso-American burial
alternative to blood jade, however:
sites. Chinese imperial elites went to their graves in
the high-quality nephrite mined in
whole suits of jade armour consisting of pieces of
northern British Columbia.
jade sewn together with gold or silver thread. And
mysterious jade discs with a hole in their centre are
believed to have been mouthpieces through which AND FINALLY…
one whispered to the heavens. A quality piece of jade will always
be coated in a protective wax, which
enhances its lustre. But watch out
for jade that has been bleached or
Nephrite and sterling
Jadeite, emerald, dyed—its altered hue will wear
silver bracelet, $1,200,
onyx, diamond poorly over time.
David Yurman
and platinum
earrings, price
upon request,
Cartier

summer 2021 21
VOILA! WRIST ACTION

That ’70s Glow

Watch brands are going TIMEX With its digital take on an
back to the future with analog dial, the Q Timex Reissue
digital displays and Digital LCA ($199)—recreated
from a piece the brand released
retro gold styling.
in the 1980s—delights fans with its
By LAURIE BROOKINS throwback styling. Features on this
chronograph include a countdown
timer and a customizable alarm as
erhaps no decade has

P
well as its original single-bulb back-
been as influential in the light, while the gold-tone finish on
styling of a watch than the stainless-steel case and brace-
the 1970s. That statement let completes the retro vibe.
might sound a bit sacrile-
gious to timepiece aficionados, but
consider that the overall look of an
analog watch—a dial with hour and
minute hands in a round case under
a sapphire crystal—didn’t change
much for roughly two centuries.
Then the ’70s came along and
upended everything with quartz-
powered LED (light-emitting diode)
and LCD (liquid crystal display)
displays featuring bright-red numer-
als and cases that were squared
off and meant to evoke images of
computers, not the intricate craft of
watchmaking. When Roger Moore’s BULOVA For the look-at-me styling
James Bond briefly eschewed of a throwback piece, few watches
his traditional Rolex in favour of a appreciate ’70s details quite like Bulova:
digital Hamilton Pulsar in 1973’s It contributed the Accutron Quartz and
Live and Let Die, it was an instant the Computron LED to that decade’s
statement that futurism had firmly timekeeping landscape. The latest
invaded the world of watches. Computron ($395) from the brand’s
Almost 50 years later, the vibe Archive Series features a red LED
is influencing all style categories, display, day/date functions and dual-
and with it comes a renewed time-zone capability housed in a stain-
appreciation for the era’s watches. less-steel case plated in black (featuring
Here’s a look at five chicly updated the Computron’s iconic ridged design)
pieces from brands that claim on a black rubber bracelet.
space-age timekeeping as part of
their heritage.

22 SUMMER 2021
 WRIST ACTION VOILA!

CASIO G-SHOCK Few brands are associated with the digital age of
watches like Casio; it was at the forefront of “computer watch” develop-
ment throughout the ’70s and ’80s. That association is surely one of the
reasons why Chris Pine wears a Casio in Wonder Woman 1984. This
piece from the G-Shock Full Metal collection ($800)—with its feature-
filled digital display in a stainless-steel case and bracelet that have been
embellished with an ion-plated finish of deep red—is a nod to the brand’s
heritage. With its multitude of alarms, easy time-zone changes, flash alerts
and luminescent backlight, this shock-resistant piece hearkens back to the
bells and whistles that made digital watches beloved at the time of their
original release, but its updates, such as Bluetooth connectivity, make it
a watch for today.

HAMILTON The brand that kicked

off the decade of the digital age
of watches is once again celebrat-
ing that moment with the Hamilton
PSR ($970)—a tribute to the game-
G UCCI If any fashion changing Pulsar, the world’s first all-
brand deserves to celebrate electronic digital watch, which was
a ’70s moment, it’s Gucci; announced on The Tonight Show
during that decade, it Starring Johnny Carson on May 6,
stamped its logo on every- 1970. This modern update features
thing from Rolls-Royce lug- a display that’s a hybrid of LCD and
gage to perfumes to, yes, its OLED (organic LED), which fans of
first watch. Watches in the the original red numerals will surely
Gucci Grip watch collec- enjoy when they press the side
tion (prices upon request) button. This marriage of technologies
take their cue from ’70s also ensures that the quartz watch
skateboard culture—from its is always easily readable. The wide
name (skaters use grip tape cushion case and bracelet are crafted
on their boards) to the lack in stainless steel, and the watch is
of a typical crystal (which water-resistant to 100 metres.
might easily shatter when
a street trick goes haywire).
Instead, the time is dis-
played via two windows in a
case with a thin yellow gold
coating, and the matching
PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK

bracelet is accented with

interlocking Gs.

SUMMER 2021 23
VOILA! #bigmood

Shiseido
Ultra sun Native
protector shoes
cream

Dries Van Divvy pre-rolls

Noten top at
mr porter
Jacquemus spring 2021

Sirius Glassworks
tumbler

Amiri
shorts

Emporio Armani
sunglasses Txt.ure chair
at goodee

text by odessa paloma parker. photography: main via imaxtree.com.

Charles Jeffrey
Loverboy hat at

Yonder
matchesFashion

Lust
Freedom is a state of mind, and room to roam has never felt more necessary.
Find a place to space out, get some sun and take it all in. These are wild times—
seize every chance to enjoy the elements and let nature take its course.

24 summer 2021
 They Were
Loved
The magnitude of COVID-19’s impact on Canadians’ lives
is difficult to fathom. Canada has already lost more than
20,000 people to the pandemic; each of those losses has
cascaded through families and communities, leaving
many more thousands bereaved.
They Were Loved is a years-long project to commemorate
everyone who has died of COVID-19 in Canada, and every
Canadian who has died of the disease abroad. In partnership
with Carleton University’s Future of Journalism Initiative and
journalism schools across the country, Maclean’s is striving to
capture the richness of each life lost.
To read the hundreds of obituaries written to date,
visit macleans.ca/they-were-loved/
If you would like your loved one to be included,
please contact us at [email protected]

CANADA’S M AGAZINE SINCE 1905

FOUNDING SPONSOR SPONSOR

Maclean’s is published by
SJC Media, Canada’s largest
publisher of trusted brands.
VOILA! GET TO KNOW

Riley
Kucheran
Advocate for Indigenous design and
assistant professor at Toronto’s Ryerson
University School of Fashion.
By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER

WHAT’S YOUR EARLIEST FASHION MEMORY? “This will date me as a millennial,

Kucheran is wearing a but The O.C. comes to mind—that Californian ‘Hollister’ look, with two polo shirts lay-
scarf tied kokum-style and a ered and popped collars. I grew up in a very small town, of under 3,000 people, so this ties
plaid shirt—a nod to a non- into the kind of dreaming I was doing about leaving there.”
gendered approach to dressing. WHAT ELSE HAS PLAYED A PART IN YOUR STYLE JOURNEY? “In high school, I
On the right, he is wearing
had a monthly subscription to Vogue and GQ. Even back then, my desire to engage in
an iskotêw (“fire”) necklace
by Theresa Stevenson.
fashion and express myself was quite limited by gender. I saw haute couture in Vogue and
was very drawn to that, but I was also reading GQ and finding that the notion of ‘fashion’

26 SUMMER 2021
 GET TO KNOW VOILA!

only went up to a certain point in terms of suits; male self-

expression felt quite limited to things like wacky socks or
a colourful tie. I admire men who experiment with shape
and colour and fabrics. I have a beadwork-detail suit by
Justine Woods that I feel is a step toward my being more
comfortable in expressing my love of design and multiple
gender identities. It’s an important piece because it also
represents me moving toward thinking about fashion
more critically. It was made for me at a time when I was
starting to learn more about Indigenous fashion and
Two-Spirituality.
“I’m also dressing for my role as a professor teaching
design leadership. But that’s not necessarily a good thing
because I want to question the notion of who should be at
the front of a classroom. I don’t think it should just be an
older person wearing a patched tweed blazer.”
HOW DOES THIS TENSION INFORM YOUR WORK? Kucheran with Justine
“I wanted to get into the university system to change it and Woods, wearing one of
to get into the fashion industry to change it. I very much her beadwork-embellished
consider myself anti-capitalist and probably anti-fashion, designs at the 2019
Canadian Arts & Fashion
too. That is to say, our notion of seasonality and trends,
Awards. Another one of
our desire for novelty, the pace of consumption—all his favourite creatives
of these come from fashion, and other industries have is Tania Larsson
adopted its practices. Fashion is also a tool of colonization, (earrings, left).
historically used to enforce cultural assimilation and now
used to reduce whole cultures into commodities.
“I’ve been really fortunate to have the support of my
faculty colleagues, who encouraged me to add three new
courses to the curriculum. There’s Indigenous Fashion WHAT ARE YOU HOPING TO ENCOURAGE IN THE
101, which introduces students to Indigenous philosophies BIIGTIGONG NISHNAABEG COMMUNITY YOU’VE
and approaches to design that are inherently sustainable BEEN A PART OF THIS YEAR? “I’m now living in a
and socially responsible; it examines a few different small town, Zooming with my classes and spending more
culturally specific designs, history and colonization, ethics time on the land chopping wood and collecting water.
and cultural appropriation, Indigenous fashion weeks One’s priorities aren’t necessarily looking a certain way—
and Indigenous forms of entrepreneurship. Then there’s it’s more about function than expression. At one point, I
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF RILEY KUCHERAN; LARSSON BY JAMIE STEVENSON PHOTOGRAPHY.

Indigenous Craft Practices and Land and Fashion, which was dressing very butch, in plaid shirts, tech pants and
are upper-year courses where we can travel and engage hiking boots; I hadn’t been shaving, and I looked very
directly with communities—rural and urban. I’ve also gruff and masc. One day, I woke up and it was like a
been able to adapt existing courses. I taught one on design switch had been turned off: I shaved, cleaned up and
history that was previously very canonical: It focused on put on what we call a kokum [granny] scarf. I went
the ‘iconic designs’ of the 20th century and ‘good design’ out looking so femme and was joking with the elders
from exclusively European design movements and mostly about how they’d never seen a man wear a scarf like
white male designers. I widened the scope and provided that. This was important during a semester of land-based
examples of Indigenous design and design before the teaching; the community got to see a kind of ‘switching’
Industrial Revolution; we also discussed the intersections of gender. Queer people in smaller communities often
of design and colonization, capitalism, race and gender. I’m end up leaving because they want to find others like
probably most excited about an accessory design course them. So, expressing yourself outside of gender binaries
that I adapted this past semester. We engaged knowledge becomes even more important when you’re not in a larger
holders like Amber Sandy and Janey Chang to help us city. There was a dormant period when queer and trans
create our own fish-skin leather. It’s an Indigenous practice expression had completely gone underground in order
found globally, and it can teach us a lot about cultural for it to survive. Now, it’s about finding, re-establishing
heritage, reciprocity, slowing down and respecting the and reaffirming that every community has queer and
process and using fashion to make political statements.” Two-Spirit members.” n

SUMMER 2021 27
VOILA! DETAILS

Fine Imprint
How jewellery artist Jennifer Younger is making her mark.
By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER

FINDING PURPOSE “As I got older, I Rock. “The design combines two cultures to
developed a deeper appreciation for my Tlingit show our unity and that we stand together for
heritage,” says Jennifer Younger, who discov- this cause.”
ered her passion for engraving at the age of THE PROCESS Younger works with silver and
40. Eight years later, she’s creating pieces that dead soft copper. First, she hand-patinates the
combine community-centric motifs with various copper with an experimental (and trade secret)
other inspirations that speak to her ancestry as process that can involve salt, vinegar and baking
well as to the future of Indigenous peoples. “I soda as part of the mix. “I don’t measure what
want to create jewellery that incorporates trad- I put in,” she laughs. “I’m very free-form.” The
ition but also appeals to a younger generation metal develops a patina over the course of just
so they can carry on the art and enjoy it.” a few hours (or overnight), and the colouration
ARTISTIC LICENCE Younger’s engraving sometimes influences her ideas for what to
DESIGNER teacher told her that she didn’t have to be tied engrave, she says. She uses tiny knives and
Jennifer Younger to making works based solely on her heritage. other tools she has made herself; typically, a
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAITLIN BLAISDELL

HOME BASE “He said, ‘As long as you’re doing proper form- piece can take up to three days to complete.
Sitka, Alaska line [a style of Tlingit artistry], do whatever you “I don’t want the pieces to be exactly the same,”
ITEM Hand- want,’” recounts Younger. Since then, she has Younger says of why she favours freehand
patinated been exploring iconography, including Lakota one-of-a-kind and custom work. And it’s another
and -engraved floral patterns, mixing it with Tlingit references— reason why her chosen materials speak to her: “I
copper bracelet seaweed in the case of the bracelet pictured, love copper for its changes. Same with brushed
which she made to commemorate Standing silver. I like things that look like relics.” n

28 SUMMER 2021
 trust
noun. /trəst/
Firm belief in the
reliability, truth, ability, or
strength of someone
or something.
(Also: confidence, certainty)

Print is Trust.

NOW, IT’S YOUR TURN. Share one word that describes what print means to you. It might be a feeling, an
xp ri nc , a habit. (W ask d our SJC staff and h r ar a f w of th ir words to g t you thinking: P rsp ctiv ,
Relaxation, Voice and Focus.) All participants will be entered in a draw to win one of 25 print-themed prize packs
with a on -y ar magazin subscription and a $50 gift card to a Canadian ind p nd nt bookstor n ar you. Plus, your
submission may b f atur d in our national ad campaign this summ r! To nt r, visit th URL b low or shar on social
with hashtag #PrintIs and w ’ll g t in touch.

St. Joseph Communications is proudly celebrating 65 years of print.whatisprinttoyou.ca

VOILA! MERCH

STYLE
TIP
Commit to full
coverage, and pair it
with natural-toned
accessories.
 MERCH VOILA!

ATP Atelier at

21
Shopbop, $470

n Spring 20
Prada,
$1,100

Ulla Johnso
Dries Van Noten at
Ssense, $465

SMR Days at
MatchesFashion, $660

Green Light
1
ring 202

There’s no caution needed when you proceed

B os s S p

with this summer’s most pleasing pastel.

Bather,
EDITORS: SARAH MARIOTTI AND ELAINE JYLL REGIO. PHOTOGRAPHY: STREET STYLE AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

$110

Tory Burch at Farfetch, $800

Staud,
$305

Kat
Maconie,
$255

Ellie Mae, $525

SUMMER 2021 31
VOILA! MERCH

STYLE
TIP
A boyfriend blazer
will help ward off
evening chills and add
instant polish to

Short
casual bottoms.

Circuit Power up your

summer staples with
denim that gives your
legs the attention
they deserve.
 merch VOILA!

Dynamite, $45 Mavi, $90 Outland Denim, $185

Diesel, $160 Sacai at Holt Renfrew, $680 Gap, $70

EDITORS: ELAINE JYLL REGIO AND ELIZA GROSSMAN. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

Balenciaga at Ssense, $1,050 Ganni at MatchesFashion, $320 Agolde, $210

summer 2021 33
VOILA! MERCH

STYLE
TIP
Reserve your
freshest socks for
layering. Want more?
Pick a branded or
tie-dyed pair.

Easy
Does It
Take leisure dressing to
the next level with laid-
back slip-ons that signal
casual comfort.
 EDITOR: ELAINE JYLL REGIO. PHOTOGRAPHY: STREET STYLE AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

Balenciaga

$180

Dore, $75
Aimé Leon
Casablanca,

$845
Gabriela Hearst

DRKSHDW,
Rick Owens
Kenzo
Bonnie
Clyde, $180

Valentino
John Elliott x
Suicoke, $280

SUMMER 2021
Kule, $30
MERCH

Molly Goddard
VOILA!

35
VOILA! MERCH

Extra
Curricular
However you choose to pass
the time, some of your favourite
designers have got you covered.
 merch VOILA!

Hermès, price
Tiffany & Co., $970 Prada, $925
upon request

Fendi, price
Loewe, $365 Christopher Kane, $165
upon request
EDITOR: ElAINE JYll REGIO. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

Dior, price
Saint Laurent, $650 Louis Vuitton, $98,000
upon request

summer 2021 37
FASHION  X  RBC InvestEase

French
Lesson
With travel curtailed, now is
the perfect time to save for
that dream trip to Paris.
Bernadette morra shares
her must-see list for
when you get there.

P
aris is always a good idea, especially if you love while rotating exhibits include a planned retrospective of
fashion. All the top luxury brands have invested photographer Paolo Roversi.
in stunning flagships that are well worth a visit, AvENuE mONtAIGNE AND l’AvENuE Christian Dior
even if just to ogle the decor. And fashion his- opened the doors of his couture house at 30 Avenue
tory abounds—from Place Vendôme, where Montaigne on December 16, 1946, and expanded quickly
many of the world’s top jewellers opened in the 19th cen- as his landmark “New Look” captivated the world. The
tury, to the Azzedine Alaïa museum and gallery in the late site remains the headquarters for the house’s couture, while
designer’s headquarters in the Marais. Other must-sees: ready-to-wear and accessories are available in adjacent
street-level shops. Toast your purchases at nearby L’Avenue,
CHANEl RuE CAmBON BOutIquE AND BAR where moguls and models dine during fashion weeks.
HEmINGWAY Shopping at 31 Rue Cambon is a special lE BON mARCHé One of the world’s oldest depart-
thrill—upstairs is where Mademoiselle created the iconic ment stores was a fashion mecca when it opened in 1852
chain-handled handbag and the classic Chanel suit. The and remains so today. All the best luxury brands are repre-
couture collections are still handcrafted on the upper sented, as well as indie French talents you’ve never heard
floors, and her famous apartment remains a shrine, though of. If you happen to be travelling with someone who doesn’t
it’s off limits to most. Time your share your delight in clothes, shoes
visit so that at 5:30 p.m., you can and bags, send them to the food
head across the street to the Ritz hall, where they can nestle in a
Paris and join the queue for the corner of the oyster bar with a glass
legendary Bar Hemingway, which of Chablis.
fills up as soon as the doors open FASHION WEEKS If you schedule
RBC InvestEase tips
at 6. The prices are horrifying, but your trip during the ready-to-
this is your chance to live like a open an investing account for wear shows in March or October,
supermodel and try the French 76, your travel goal and give it a name, you are likely to pay more for a
Kate Moss’s favourite drink. like “Paris Fashion Week 2025.” hotel, especially those in the 1st
PAlAIS GAllIERA muSEum it’s the perfect simple reminder arrondissement. However, the pay-
Paris’s only museum dedicated to to keep you motivated. back in people-watching will be
fashion reopened last year after a set up that Paris investing worth it. Check the show schedules
two-and-a-half-year reno. The account so you’re making on the Chambre Syndicale’s web-
enchanting Italianate palace, auto-deposits every payday. site, and then hang out with the
completed in 1894 to house the it’s like the classic “freeze your street-style photographers captur-
Duchess of Galliera’s art collec- credit card in a block of ice” trick: ing celebrity guests and famous edi-
PhotograPhy via istock

tion, is a great spot to brush up out of sight, out of mind. tors as they come and go. Also fun
on your fashion history. A new tag your future vacay partner are the haute couture presentations
lower-level gallery highlights some as an accountability buddy and in January and July. The guest lists
of the 200,000+ artifacts in the schedule regular check-ins to are smaller, but the opportunities
museum’s permanent collection, chat about the progress you’re for stargazing are just as plentiful. n
making toward your goal.

38 summer 2021
 Investing
not your
know how?

You can still invest.

• RBC InvestEase® is simplified, low-cost, low-effort online
auto-investing.

• Let our pros pick, buy and manage your investments for you.

• Start investing with as little as $100.1

Sign up now and pay no management fees for your first year.2
Visit rbc.com/fashion and use promo code AA105.

RBC InvestEase is a restricted portfolio manager providing access to model portfolios consisting of RBC iShares ETFs with each model portfolio holding up to 100% of RBC iShares ETFs. RBC iShares ETFs
are comprised of RBC ETFs managed by RBC Global Asset Management Inc. (RBC GAM) and iShares ETFs managed by BlackRock Canada Limited (BlackRock Canada). RBC GAM and BlackRock Canada have
entered into a strategic alliance to bring together their respective ETF products under the RBC iShares brand, and to offer a unified distribution support and service model for RBC iShares ETFs.
Other products and services may be offered by one or more separate corporate entities that are affiliated to RBC InvestEase Inc., including without limitation: Royal Bank of Canada, RBC Direct Investing
Inc., RBC Dominion Securities Inc., RBC Global Asset Management Inc., Royal Trust Corporation of Canada and The Royal Trust Company. RBC InvestEase Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Royal Bank of
Canada and uses the business name RBC InvestEase.
The services provided by RBC InvestEase are only available in Canada.
1
Your money will not be invested until your account balance reaches $100 or more. Small balances (less than $1,500) may be allocated to a Small Balance portfolio that invests in a limited selection of RBC
iShares ETFs and/or cash. Our Small Balance portfolios follow similar risk profiles as our Standard Portfolios while investing in fewer RBC iShares ETFs.
2
To take advantage of this offer you must not have held an RBC InvestEase account prior to May 1, 2021. Accounts opened from May 1, 2021 to October 31, 2021 using promo code AA105 will not be charged
the regular 0.5% management fee by RBC InvestEase for 12 months from the date of account opening. RBC InvestEase will notify clients 60 days in advance of any changes to the fees associated with their
account as set out in the investment management agreement. A weighted average management expense ratio between 0.11-0.32% will still apply to the ETFs held in our portfolios. This offer cannot be
combined with any other offers. RBC InvestEase Inc. reserves the right to amend or withdraw this offer at any time without notice. Offer applies to clients’ first RBC InvestEase account only.
® / ™ Trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. VPS108386 126294 (03/2021)
VOILA! road trip

Lake Louise in all

its splendour

Close
Encounters
We may not be venturing far this
summer, but these destinations will
transport you, even if it’s just for a day.
By BEKA SHANE DENTER

W
ith every-
thing that
has been
going on
over the past year, it’s no
secret we could all use
a rejuvenating escape.
Luckily, the most awe-
some points of interest are
sometimes close to home.
We tapped four guides
from across the country to
send you on a road trip to
remember. From where to
eat to what to buy, here’s
how to make your next
local excursion a truly
bon voyage.

EO
NENY TAKPO
HI
C

LAKE LOUISE, A L B ERTA

FAVOURITE THINGS ABOUT THIS SPOT “I love Lake Louise for the stunning
views and fresh air. Especially with travel restrictions, it’s a perfect getaway when
things feel too heavy. The drive itself is peaceful and breathtaking. Every time I visit,
I’m in awe—like I’m seeing the lake for the first time.”
WHAT TO PACK “Water—I consider it an essential health and beauty item. Also, a
roomy tote bag and blotting powder for touch-ups. There are so many places to take
VOCATIONAL amazing pictures, so you want to make sure you look your best! And I recommend
REHABILITATION bringing a chic scarf to protect your hair and ears in case there’s wind. As the weather
SPECIALIST warms up, I’ll be switching from chunky knit scarves to satin ones.”

40 summer 2021
 road trip VOILA!

from top: moraine

lake, near the village
of lake louise; mount
fairview dining room
and fare (inset) at deer
lodge; amazonite
stones from pipestone
quarry (inset); a
snowy americano
at trailhead café
room by Jackson dematos; plate by kendal + kevin; stones courtesy of pipestone quarry; snowy americano courtesy of trailhead café.
editor: odessa paloma parker. photography: main by caleb troy via getty; moraine lake by cavan images via getty; mount fairview dining

BEST PLACE FOR COFFEE “try the snowy

americano at Trailhead Café. it has a great
menu, and it serves breakfast all day.”
NOTABLE PLACES TO NOSH “in the warmer
months, you can picnic right by the lake. that’s
HOW TO on the to-do list for my boyfriend and me this
GET THERE summer. as for dining and takeout, Mount
the porsche taycan Fairview Dining Room is amazing.”
4 cross turismo’s FAVOURITE LOCAL SHOP “The Viewpoint
performance has a wonderful selection of book titles.”
battery plus means BEST PLACE FOR SOUVENIRS “Pipestone 
more distance. Quarry. it sells rocks, semi-precious gem-
stones, minerals, fossils and other collectibles.” »

WHAT Rare Beauty

TO Asobu at blot & glow Llim at
PACK hudson’s
bay, $25
touch-up kit
at sephora,
inland,
$250
$34

summer 2021 41
VOILA! road trip

Georgian Bay, as seen from

Collingwood. Right: The
charming June Motel

ICHARDSO
EFR N
T
S

founder of the
blog lokal digs

SAUBLE BEACH,
O N TA R I O

FAVOURITE THING ABOUT THIS SPOT

“Time disappears. You’re brought back to being
a kid and spending days at the beach eating ice
cream sundaes, building sandcastles and beg-
ging not to go home.”
NOTABLE PLACES TO NOSH “Pom Pom, in
Thornbury, is a fun and friendly ice cream spot.
Casero taco bus, in Sauble Beach, is a must-
visit. the Milk Maid, in Owen Sound, is known
for its gourmet cheese and provisions—it’s a
one-stop shop for all grazing-board necessi-
ties. heydays at the June Motel has reinvented
coastal classics and a groovy vibe. It’s perfect
for gathering, sipping and soaking up summer.”
WHERE TO SHOP “the Patch is an iconic
second-hand-clothing and -accessories store
on the main strip in Sauble Beach. It’s got every-

42 summer 2021
 road trip VOILA!

Clockwise
from left:
A rush of
beauty
at Inglis
Falls; quirky
decor at
Grandma
Lambe’s;
menu items
thing from trousers and overalls to jackets, tanks, at The
Wellness
hats and sunglasses. Grit & Grace is a women’s
Refinery;
fashion boutique where you’ll find beautiful and an array
classic pieces.” of goods
LOCAL BRAND TO CHECK OUT “Bishop at Grit
Botanicals is a line of plant-based skincare & Grace
products created by a mother-daughter duo. It’s
right in the heart of downtown Collingwood.”
BEST PLACE FOR COFFEE “The Wellness
Refinery. Minutes from the main beach, it has
tasty snacks, smoothies and specialty coffees.
It also has vegan and paleo options, and it’s all
gluten-free!”
HIKES, ADVENTURES AND RESTAURANTS
OFF THE MAIN ROUTE “Bruce Trail is well
EDITOR: ODESSA PALOMA PARKER. PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARDSON AND INGLIS FALLS BY ALYSSA JOLINE PHOTOGRAPHY; JUNE MOTEL AND THE WELLNESS

known by avid hikers because it’s 900 kilome-

tres long. Get a little taste of nature’s finest on
REFINERY BY LAUREN MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY; GRANDMA LAMBE’S COURTESY OF GRANDMA LAMBE’S; GRIT & GRACE COURTESY OF GRIT & GRACE.

connected trails like Hoggs Falls (Flesherton)

and Inglis Falls (Owen Sound) or at a tourist
hot spot like Devil’s Monument (Dyer’s Bay).
The hike is short, and the views are absolutely
gorgeous. Make your way down the stairs to
the rocky beach and turquoise waters. The best
picnic spot is Meaford Harbour, with its prime
HOW TO
view of Georgian Bay. Grab takeout from one of
GET THERE
the main-street restaurants (Gio & Fran’s, The
Bring—and
Kitchen or The Leeky Canoe) and enjoy eating
come back
by the famous breakwall.”
with—more stuff
BEST PLACE FOR SOUVENIRS “Grandma
thanks to the
Lambe’s is a family-owned and -operated fruit
Ford Mustang
stand in Meaford that offers a variety of home-
Mach-E’s
made jams and baked goods. It’s been around
front trunk.
for nearly 80 years, and they bake over 35,000
pies a year.” »

WHAT
TO
PACK
Canon, Routine Natural Vans, $65
$1,900 Deodorant, $28

summer 2021 43
VOILA! road trip

A perfect view
of Percé Rock

IC LAPO
MIN RT
O
D

ILLUSTRATOR
AND MURALIST

EASTERN
QUEBEC
FAVOURITE THINGS ABOUT THIS REGION
“Variety. there’s something for everyone. Forests,
mountains and the Gulf of st. lawrence as well
as an abundance of culinary stops—plus friendly
residents to guide you along the way. We fol-
lowed Route des Montagnes and Route des

lABReQUe BY domiNiC lAPoRte; soAP CoURtesY oF les sAVoNs de l’AtelieR; RiVièRe BoNAVeNtURe BY dYlAN PAGe/toURisme GAsPésie.
Baleines for the amazing views.”

editoR: odessA PAlomA PARKeR. PHotoGRAPHY: PeRCé RoCK, RoUte 132 ANd PUB Pit CARiBoU BY mAtHieU dUPUis/le QUéBeC mARitime;
NOTABLE PLACES TO NOSH “Quebec is
known for its terroir products (products made of
raw materials particular to the region), so check
out the following: Le Rond Point, in Baie-saint-
Paul, for a delicious upscale burger made with
local ingredients; Cantine Armande, in Chute-
aux-outardes, for traditional casse-croûte (my
girlfriend, Anais, and i lived the casse-croûte and
picnic life for 12 days!); La P’tite Cochonne, an
artisanal bakery in Grandes-Bergeronnes that
creates little pizzas perfect for a picnic; Kiboikoi,
a charming café in les escoumins that has an
outdoor space overlooking the water and live
music at night; Plage de Haldimand, where
you’ll find Café des Artistes and La Cantina
Latinogaspésienne, which serves up delicious

Columbia,
$180
WHAT Kotn,
TO $80
PACK
Ikea,
$30

44 summer 2021
 road trip VOILA!

Clockwise from left:

Route 132, along the
north shore of the
Gaspé Peninsula;
Pub Pit Caribou;
locally made soap
from Les Savons
de L’Atelier (inset);
Laporte’s girlfriend,
Anais Labreque,
takes in the scenery;
kayakers on Rivière
Bonaventure

tacos; and Pub Pit Caribou, where you can order

snacks like pickled trout and smoked bacon—rustic,
delicious and fun! A great vibe and great tunes.”
WHERE TO SHOP “We stopped at a tiny second­
hand shop called Boutique Rock n’ Coll et Friperie
Sativa in Matane (it has lots of leather—I found a cute
bucket hat there!); Les Savons de L’Atelier, a soap
shop in Tadoussac; Atelier à Barachois, near Percé
(artist Margot Mérette decorated this property—which
doubles as her workshop/studio—in a fun way; when
you visit, she will recommend her favourite places to
explore); Herbamiel, in Sacré­Coeur­du­Saguenay,
near Tadoussac, for honey products; Épicerie-
Boucherie R. St-Gelais, a fine grocery in Matane
with specialties including pastries, cheese, jams and
marinades (it’s hard to leave without wanting to buy
the entire store).”
WHERE TO TAKE IN THE SCENERY “Route
132 is incredible, especially toward the north, when
you’re approaching Forillon National Park. Take it
slow, and stop whenever and wherever you can to
take pictures—seeing Percé Rock at sunrise is an
experience. Portneuf-sur-Mer has a beautiful sandy
beach—untouched, serene and wild. A great stop for
a picnic and pictures.”
WHAT TO PACK “Warm clothes (even when you’re
in the sun, it can get cold with the wind coming off
the St. Lawrence), hiking shoes and a picnic blanket,
cutlery and basket (so you can have a snack when the
scenery inspires a stop).”
FAVOURITE PLACES TO EXPLORE IN THE
GASPÉ PENINSULA “Mont Albert for a strenuous
HOW TO hike; Cap Bon Ami in Forillon National Park for a great
GET THERE view and an easier climb; L’Île-Bonaventure-et-du-
The Toyota Rocher-Percé National Park for gannet watching;
Sienna has a range and Cap Aventure, a small campground that orga­
of exterior lighting nizes kayaking excursions to see seals. Booking in
options, independ­ advance is key for all activities, ferries, campgrounds
ent climate control and national parks. Day passes for parks sell out
and Safety Connect quickly. Rivière Bonaventure, with its clear waters,
and Service is a beautiful spot where you can go kayaking, swim­
Connect features. ming or tubing. Also, Mont-du-Lac-des-Cygnes and
Acropole-des-Draveurs, in Charlevoix, for hiking,
offer stunning views.” »

summer 2021 45
VOILA! road trip

Skyline Trail lives

up to its name.

ediTor: odeSSa paloma parker. phoToGraphY: roBiCheaU Via iNSTaGram.Com/JodiroBiCheaU; SkYliNe Trail aNd marY aNN FallS BY lora pope CoUrTeSY oF ToUriSm NoVa SCoTia;
FraNeY moUNTaiN BY kYler mCGreGor CoUrTeSY oF ToUriSm NoVa SCoTia; The FreiGhT Shed Via FaCeBook.Com/TheFreiGhTShed; l’aBri CaFé reSTaUraNT eT Bar BY JaroN FeliX.

ROBICHEA
O
DI U CABOT TRAIL, N OVA S COT I A
J

FAVOURITE THINGS ABOUT THIS SPOT “The overall aesthetic and calm
feeling of the highlands are what we all need right now. it’s about cruising the
winding coastal roads after having hiked a beautiful trail and then enjoying a bite
to eat.” 
MUST-SEE ATTRAcTIONS “tenerife Mountain, Salt Mountain and Blueberry
Mountain, and then there’s Franey Mountain—it’s a climb, but if you’re looking
for a 360-degree view of Cape Breton, that’s the spot. an easier hike is Mary
ann Falls. explore the variety of trails to appreciate the beautiful and diverse
content landscape. Skyline trail is popular because it overlooks the ocean. also visit the
creator smaller towns, like Inverness, Meat cove, Ingonish and Baddeck.”

46 summer 2021
 road trip VOILA!

From left:
Hiking on
Franey
Mountain;
the patio
scene at
The Freight
Shed

WHAT TO CHECK OUT “Margaree Harbour

Craft & Gift Shop. This place has everything HOW TO
you need—from local books to cozy knits—to fit GET THERE
into highland life. Wreck Cove General Store, With its touch-
on Cabot Trail Road, is picturesque (straight screen display
out of an old movie) and has a beautiful moun- navigation system,
tain backdrop. The Freight Shed, in Baddeck, cargo capacity
is a lakeside eatery that offers up delicious storage and
local cuisine, from seafood chowder to vegan panoramic sunroof,
and vegetarian-friendly options. In Chéticamp, the Hyundai Tucson
it’s L’abri Café Restaurant et Bar, which looks gives good go.
like someone’s home from the outside. It over-
looks the water, and the food is unreal. The menu
focuses on local craft beer and fresh food, and
it’s a beautiful dining experience.”
WHAT TO PACK “I never go without comfort-
able shoes for walking/hiking and cozy knits, plus
a French press and other items to make coffee. It Menu items at
really takes the mountain experience to a whole L’abri Café
other level. If you’re a happy camper, bring a tent Restaurant et
Bar (above and
and camping equipment and immerse yourself
inset); Mary Ann
in nature.”  Falls (left)
BEST PLACE FOR COFFEE “My favourite is
The Dancing Goat Café & Bakery, which is
tucked away in the stunning Margaree Valley.
It offers everything from fresh bread to great
coffee; it also has a lunch menu.” n 

House
The North
WHAT Acne
Doctor at
Smallable,
Face at
TO Studios
at Holt
$50
Altitude
Sports,
PACK Renfrew, $650
$145

summer 2021 47
B C B
Get one full year of Chatelaine—8 issues—for just $20.
That’s 50% off the cover price.

Who doesn’t love getting mail?

ORDER ONLINE NOW

chatelaine.com/subscribe
 CANVAS
HAIR • SKIN • EYES • LIPS • NAILS • ETC.
TEXT BY SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY. PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATASHA GERSCHON.

DREAM
IN COLOUR
Perhaps this year more than
any other, summer calls for
pops of bright, joy-inducing
hues—from jewel- and pastel-
toned curls to sunny fingertips.
CANVAS ACTIVISM

11—and depict it in a beautiful, powerful way. Her first posts

showed off her chest hair in a low-cut lavender tulle dress, and
this kicked off Lavender Project—a photography series that is
now the artist’s most cherished body of work.
“I’ve had my Instagram account since I was in high school,”
says Calixte-Bea. “And I felt that I was no longer being

HAIR authentic by just posting ‘nice’ pictures. It was purposeless.

Lavender Project was a rebirth—I could start over and be
myself.” Stuck in a years-long time-consuming cycle of waxing,
shaving and electrolysis, followed by periods of hiding her body
hair, Calixte-Bea found that the burden of hair removal and
insecurity had become too much to bear. “I was tired of feeling
trapped and insecure,” she says, adding that her body was
fighting back in the form of irritated skin and painful ingrown
hairs. “I started questioning why I was doing all these things
and who I was doing them for.”
As an artist, Calixte-Bea knew that “photography could
really free [her].” But it wasn’t until she began receiving mes-
sages from women around the world who had also spent their
lives hiding their own body hair and had never seen themselves
represented in photos before that she saw just how important
Lavender Project could be. “When I learned I was freeing
other women, it became bigger than me.”
After Calixte-Bea’s art began gaining popularity on
Instagram, her aunt, who lives in Ivory Coast, reached
out to share that she wasn’t alone and that all the men and

STORY women in their family have always had a lot of body hair.
“She told me that in my great-grandmother’s time, women
who were hairy were considered beautiful,” she says. Upon
further research, Calixte-Bea discovered that, in fact, in
many cultures, women with body hair were seen as being
healthy and powerful.
Photographer, painter and body-hair activist These days, the body-positivity movement has made way for
Esther Calixte-Bea, better known as women to show off body hair that has been deemed less taboo
@queen_esie on Instagram, is on a mission (such as underarm hair), but change and acceptance has been
slow. More dramatic depictions of all-over body hair don’t exist
to normalize female body hair.
in the mainstream; they live largely in fetish communities, says
By SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY Calixte-Bea. “It is either seen as gross or extremely sexualized.
I don’t really see body hair portrayed in a beautiful, elegant
light. I want to show women that they can go to a gala with
t’s no secret that Instagram looks a lot different today than their chest hair and leg hair on display.”

I it did just a few short years ago. The old model, rife with an
over-saturated mega-influencer market and hyper-curated
feeds, has been rejected by younger—particularly Gen
Calixte-Bea is certainly not on a mission to convince
every woman who comes across her work to stop shaving or
waxing. “I just want to see a world where women can choose,”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ESTHER “QUEEN ESIE” CALIXTE-BEA

Z—users and digital content creators. Slowly but surely, heavy she says. Currently, “removing or keeping your body hair is
filters, portrayals of unattainable beauty standards and endless not a fair choice,” she adds. “It’s either ‘shave or don’t shave,
streams of mirror selfies are being replaced with photos and but face the repercussions.’” These repercussions, of course,
messages that carry deeper meaning. For 24-year-old Montreal- include judgment and stares from other people. Calixte-Bea
based artist Esther Calixte-Bea, better known to her over hopes for a future of thoughtful body neutrality when it
34,000 followers as @queen_esie, the shift in how she presents comes to female body hair. “I want women to understand
herself online has been a very intentional journey. the power that society has had over us for years and be able
In the summer of 2019, Calixte-Bea relaunched her to ask themselves if they actually like their body hair or not. I
Instagram account with a sole purpose: to normalize female want them to choose whether they want to keep it or remove
body hair—something that she’s had lots of since she was it—and not feel ashamed, no matter what they choose.” n

50 SUMMER 2021
 Get ready to meet the new Canadian Business. Visit
canadianbusiness.com/thenewcb to sign up for updates
and to learn more about our exciting relaunch.

L 2 021 RELAUNCHING
FAL ON COMING SOON C FALL
G O
G
OM
S IN
IN

20
IN G
CH

21
M

SO
CO
LL 2021 RELAUN

ON

R E LA
OON

COM
COMING S

UNCHING FALL
ING SOON COM
SOON
FA

ING
NG
ING
MI

202
SO
CO

ON
H
NC

CO N
MIN SOO RE
G SOON COMING LAU
AU EL NC H
02 1 R ING FALL 2

canadianbusiness.com/thenewcb
CANVAS SHELFIE

Golden Hour
Nineteen-year-old model Kaia Gerber
has spent the past year and a half
just like the rest of us: baking banana
bread, experimenting with DIY specialty
coffees (“I’ve gotten very into making
my own mushroom coffee so I’m wired
all day,” she says) and starting a book
club. Unlike the rest of us, she has
kept her biweekly book club going
strong; it even features celebrity guest
appearances. (In the club’s first meet-
ing, Gerber and Normal People actors
Daisy Edgar-Jones and Paul Mescal
discussed the Sally Rooney novel of
the same name.) “I never wanted to
overstep in the literary community,”
says Gerber, who’s an avid reader. “But
I’m grateful that I’ve been accepted into
a world I’ve always wanted to be a part
of.” Her hobby caught the attention of
designer Marc Jacobs, her longtime
collaborator, who even donated masks
to NYU Langone Health in honour of
the model’s book club.
Now, the two have paired up again—
this time in their usual way—swapping
books for bottles as Gerber stars in
the latest campaign for the Daisy Marc
Jacobs fragrance franchise, for which
she has been a face since 2017. The
newest scent, Daisy Eau So Intense
(from $115), is inspired by the warmth
of the sun, the beauty of the golden
hour and—what else?—fields of fresh
daisies. With notes of strawberry, pear,

New honey and vanilla, Daisy Eau So Intense

is bright and deeply joyful. “It reminds
me of watching the sunset with my

& Now
A roundup of the latest
family,” says Gerber, who’s counting
down the days until she can head back
to her beloved Muskoka cottage. “By
the way, everyone here in the U.S. calls
it a house. I’ll say ‘cottage’ and people
are like ‘Are you from Goldilocks and
beauty buys to consider. the Three Bears?’” she laughs.

HOMETOWN GLORY
In the 40 years since its launch, California-based nail polish brand OPI has provided fans
with colour stories inspired by destinations around the world, like Peru, Portugal, Tokyo and
Iceland. To celebrate the big 4-0, the brand found its inspiration at home—enter the Malibu
Collection. Launching this summer, the 12-shade line features six neutrals and six bold hues,
including a new pink called “Strawberry Waves Forever”—an updated, glittery celebratory
version of one of the brand’s bestsellers, “Strawberry Margarita.”

52 SUMMER 2021
 SHELFIE CANVAS

SUN-DRENCHED California-based brand Odacité has long been a pioneer in the green-
beauty space. With an ethos that intersects luxe science-based French skincare and green Cali
living, it just launched its most-difficult-to-make product: Sun Guardian ($87), a non-nano zinc
oxide fragrance- and silicone-free broad spectrum SPF 30 that took five years—and dozens
of iterations—to formulate and put through clinical testing. The end result? A soothing matte
formula that combines oceanic glacial water, aloe vera, vitamin E and green tea. “Everyone in
the lab kept telling me it’s impossible to make a truly clean mineral sunscreen that doesn’t leave
a white cast and has an SPF of 30,” says founder Valérie Grandury. Despite not having a back-
ground in cosmetics chemistry herself, she insisted that the formulators find a way. “That bliss
of not really knowing gives you the capacity to push the limits,” she laughs.

PALETTE
CLEANSER
Extra-large eyeshadow
palettes have become
collector’s items, but how
many of those dozen (or
more) shades actually make
it into an everyday makeup
Bright Eyes

look? Clarins’s pared-down

Ombré 4 Couleurs ($49)
offers only easy-to-wear
favourites. The gradient
palette features four universal
shades in a selection of
finishes—velvet, foil, metallic
and satin—enriched with
bamboo powder for ultra-
smooth application and
crease-free wear.
TEXT BY SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY. PHOTOGRAPHY: MARC JACOBS MAIN BY LYNETTE GARLAND.

WITH PRIDE
Just in time for Pride Month,
Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest “I’ve worn makeup every day during the pandemic,” says Dame Helen
fragrance launch, Le Male Mirren. “I do my exercises, have a coffee and get made up. Then I take
Pride Eau de Toilette it all off and do it again the next day.” The legendary actor is the face of
($115), is a loud and playful L’Oréal Paris’s new Age Perfect Creamy Eyeshadow ($11), which is avail-
celebration of freedom, love able in eight highly pigmented shades. Like everything in the Age Perfect
and laughter. This exuberant range, the eyeshadows are made with women over 50 in mind and con-
blend of lavender, vanilla tain nourishing ingredients that allow for creamy (never flat or powdery)
and mint in a collector’s application. “Makeup can make you feel terrific and look bright-eyed
edition rainbow-flag bottle and bushy-tailed, which is much more important than looking ‘beautiful,’”
is just the thing to get the says Mirren. “So I think it should be called the ‘swagger industry’ rather
party started this summer. than the ‘beauty industry.’”

SUMMER 2021 53
CANVAS TEXTURE TALK

Tonal
Recall
Everything you need to
know about keeping curly hair
healthy after a dye job.
By INGRIE WILLIAMS

H
air colouring is a chemical pro-
cess that changes more than just
your hair’s hue—especially if
you’re blessed with natural
curls—so it’s important to do your research
and go in prepared. The first order of busi-
ness is, of course, booking a consultation
with your colourist. This should be an
information-gathering conversation, and
“there has to be honesty on both sides,” says
Praise Okwumabua, stylist and owner of
Freshair Boutique in Winnipeg. “Some-
times clients are timid when it comes to
expressing what they want, so be clear.”
Photos are helpful; send the colourist an
inspiration pic of the colour you hope to
achieve, plus one of your current hair
colour, prior to the consultation. Most

PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY ROCKIE NOLAN/REFINERY29 VIA GETTY; JADEN SMITH BY GREGG DEGUIRE/GETTY;
importantly, Okwumabua stresses, clients
should be empowered to ask for photos of
the colourist’s past work. “You want to see
that they know how to manipulate your
hair type,” she says. “If you have no evi-

DANIEL CAESAR BY EMMA MCINTYRE/GETTY; STREET STYLE VIA IMAXTREE.COM.

dence they’ve done it before, or if they’re
dismissive and act like the process will be
the same for your type 3 or 4 curls as it
would be for anyone else, be leery.”

1, 2, PREP Once you’ve both agreed on your desired shade, there are some pre-appointment steps you
can take to enhance your results before you settle into the chair. First, shampoo and detangle your hair
the day before the big appointment. Despite what you may have heard, “dirty hair isn’t better,” says
Keina Morgan, a Toronto-based curl expert and owner of Urban Curls Boutique. You want clean hair
with no heavy oils or other products that might block the colour from penetrating. Clients with curl
patterns in the type 2 to 3 range can arrive at the salon with their curls in natural form. For type 4
curls, “it’s best to come in with tight coils stretched out,” says Morgan. “This makes it easier to apply
the product and will result in less pulling on your scalp. The product will also be absorbed deeper into
the hair, and we’ll have to use less of it.”

54 SUMMER 2021
 TEXTURE TALK CANVAS

COLOUR THEORY Now for the dyeing process...

The procedure lifts and opens up the hair cuticle to CURL ESSENTIALS
allow the colour to seep in. But it also allows moisture
to escape, leading to dry hair. “Think of the cuticle This co-wash is sulfate-
layer of your hair as a pine cone,” says Morgan. and alcohol-free, so it
“With virgin hair, the pine cone is tight and sealed. gently removes buildup
The developer used in a colouring service opens up without stripping
the cuticle layer, so the pigment can penetrate, and the colour. Bonus: It’s from
cuticle is then always lifted.” This puts Black hair, which a Canadian brand.
Kinksology
is naturally drier and more fragile, in an even more delicate,
Co-Cleanse, $27
breakage-prone state. All coloured hair is compromised, especially when you
get into lighteners, says Okwumabua. “So if you don’t follow an after-care
regimen, your hair is going to break off for sure, particularly if you have Loaded with botanical
type 3 or 4 curls.” ingredients to soothe
and rebuild brittle hair,
plus a warm essential
oil scent, this mask
AFTER THE FACT Now that you’ve left the salon will bring your
with your desired hue and snapped the perfect selfie strands back to life.
to post on Instagram, it’s time to chill out—literally. AG Hair Care
To preserve the colour in freshly dyed hair, it’s best Nourish Mask, $26
to avoid hot temperatures. “Every time you pass a
flatiron over your hair or blow-dry it, you open up the Hydrolyzed wheat
cuticle a little bit, causing the colour to fade,” says protein joins humec-
Okwumabua. Diffusing is less damaging, since the hot tant maple syrup for a
reparative conditioner
air isn’t directly hitting your strands, but air-drying and
from a new range
twist-out styling are ideal for maintaining colour. The minimal- formulated for curls,
heat rule applies in the shower, too. “Using cooler water will help keep the coils and textured hair.
cuticle closed, which keeps colour in your strands for longer,” says Morgan. Lush Power
What’s in your hair-care lineup plays a major role in rebuilding colour- Conditioner, $24
treated curls and preserving vibrancy, too. Morgan suggests a sulfate-free
no- or low-lather shampoo, a keratin leave-in treatment and a protein-rich Rice proteins make
deep-conditioning mask. And investing in a bonnet or using a silk or satin this a hydrating must-
pillowcase overnight will go a long way toward reducing frizz and maintaining have for pre- and
moisture in curls, says Okwumabua. post-colour treatments.
SheaMoisture Purple
Rice Water Strength +
Color Prep Primer &
DI...WHY? Thinking about executing this whole Styler, $14
process at home? Unfortunately, the hair pros don’t
recommend colouring your own curls. “After last
year’s initial lockdown, we had to do a lot of fixing,” Sleeping on a luxe
textile like silk or satin
says Morgan. “You’ll never achieve the colour that’s
minimizes friction,
on the front of the box—ever,” adds Okwumabua.
frizz and breakage.
But if your heart is set on DIYing, “talk to a stylist Fey’Kare 100%
you trust and who will support you and give you the Mulberry Silk
best tips,” advises Okwumabua. Both experts strongly Pillowcase, $102
recommend using a semi-permanent formula only—the type
that will fade over several shampoos. Morgan suggests going just one shade This fast-acting bond
darker than your hair colour. “It’s going to lift and lighten over time, and you fixer reduces break-
don’t want lines of demarcation left in the hair,” she says. When shopping, age and strengthens
buy multiple boxes of dye to make sure you have enough product to work hair with hydrolyzed
quinoa, mango butter
through dense curls and finish the job. Morgan suggests two boxes if you
extract and sea buck-
have short to medium hair and four boxes if you have medium to long hair.
thorn berry seed oil.
Start by doing a patch and strand test to make sure you’re not allergic to the Amika The Kure
formula and to see what the results will be like before you mess with your Multi-Task Repair
entire mane. Don’t say we didn’t warn you! Treatment, $37

SUMMER 2021 55
CANVAS REGIMENS

Truth Be Told

The process of writing

and recording an album
is notoriously taxing. But
for Canadian R&B singer
TiKA, the five-year
endeavour was more eye-
opening than she could
ever have imagined.
By SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY

Top
Shelf
Here are some “Témi Shobowale is the Toronto-based makeup “During the pandemic, one of my girlfriends, Lyss,
of the beauty artist behind Black-owned skincare brand started a lipgloss line called The Lippie Lab. She
products TiKA Essentials by Temi. Her mist is the only spray is proudly Black and queer and has been an active
has in her I’ll use before I put on makeup.” Essentials by community supporter for years. Plus, her lipglosses
current rotation. Temi Intense Hydration Complexion Mist, $28 are immaculate.” The Lippie Lab Lip Gloss, $8 each

56 SUMMER 2021
 REGIMENS CANVAS

If you’re a Black artist, there’s a level of per­

fectionism that’s expected of you,” says multi­
disciplinary artist TiKA. “You can’t show up
and just be; you’re expected to show up poised
and perfect—to have that Beyoncé vibe.” During the pro­
cess of writing her debut full-length album, Anywhere but
Here (which she worked on for five years), the pressure
she felt to present herself, and her music, a certain way
became too overwhelming. Eventually, she says, she real­
ized that “there’s a disconnect between perfectionism and
humanity.” Committed to shedding the uncertainty and
rampant over-analyzing that had been holding
her back and stifling her creative process, TiKA
tossed the many different album cover options
she had long been struggling to decide between
FLUIDITY MAKES SPACE
and opted for a simple black­and­white photo
she had taken in a barbershop back in 2014. “In FOR OPENNESS, WHICH
hindsight, now that I’ve finally put the album
out, I see that my ego played a larger role than I ALLOWS YOU TO CREATE
realized,” she says. “This album is me unpack­
ing some of my own shit.” WITH FEWER RESTRICTIONS.
Of course, it’s not just the singer who has
undergone a transformation. When TiKA
began writing the album, the world was a completely a certain way to fans, she turned to her lifelong adoration
different place. “There’s a weird energy because of quar­ of Prince (a cover of the singer’s “I Would Die 4 U” is fea­
antine,” she says. “Most of the promo and performances tured on TiKA’s album), and the late icon’s own portrayal
I’ve been doing have been via Zoom.” But rather than of gender identity, for inspiration. “I remember seeing
put it off any longer, she says, she decided that this year Prince perform—he had long hair and was wearing heels
was the perfect time to finally release her body of work. and furs and was very explorative in terms of this non­
“It’s a time when people need vulnerable music like this.” binary modality,” she says. “I’d never seen that before. He
Vulnerability is, almost overwhelmingly, the theme of the pushed the boundaries in terms of gender identity, and that
album—and a direct response to the many changes and inspired me so deeply.”
personal evolutions TiKA has experienced in the past half Today, TiKA finally feels comfortable in her own skin.
decade. During that time, she moved from Toronto to “Perhaps too comfortable for others,” she laughs. But that’s
Montreal, began mending her relationship with her mom, not to say that she has abandoned her appreciation for aes­
ended painful friendships and came out as queer. The thetically minded rituals like applying makeup. In fact, her
PHOTOGRAPHY: TIKA BY JAH GREY

latter, she says, significantly impacted her creative process love of makeup is such an important part of her that she
and played a major role in her self-love awakening. “Fluid­ has appeared in campaigns for Sephora Canada in recent
ity makes space for openness, which allows you to create years. “I’ve always found it interesting how masc or how
with fewer restrictions,” she explains. femme I can look by wearing—or not wearing—makeup,”
To help break through her long-held preconceived she says. “Exploring how far I can take beauty is just
notion that she needed to stay in a single lane or appear another element of performing for me.” n

“I rotate between Issa Vibe and “I adore this lip topper. It makes “This amazing fragrance is alcohol-
Champagne Life body frostings. I any lipstick pop with high- free, cruelty-free and vegan. It
always get questions about them intensity glitter, and I live for that smells so good that heads always
because they smell so scrumptious.” look.” Dark Angel Cosmetics turn when I wear it.” Bailly
Kemsi Essentials Body Frosting, $22 Diamond Lip Topper, $28 Brilliance Roll-On Perfume Oil, $30

SUMMER 2021 57
CANVAS FRAGRANCE

Scents of Time
As Chanel’s iconic No. 5 eau de parfum turns 100, Tynan Sinks looks back at
its rich backstory and incomparable contribution to the world of fragrance.

PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) COURTESY OF CHANEL; (OPPOSITE PAGE) DENEUVE COURTESY OF CHANEL;
CHANEL COURTESY OF CHANEL, PATRIMOINE DE CHANEL COLLECTION AND HARPER’S BAZAAR.

ew things have the power to transport us to a specific moment in time the way that scent can. It’s no wonder,

F
then, that smell is the sense that is most intimately tied to memory. Think back to the smell of your childhood
home, your mom and your first love and be instantly brought face to face—for better or for worse—with that
place, that time, that person. Sometimes, a scent is only for us to know. Other times, it’s a shared experience
that becomes a character in the stories of countless others throughout the years. The latter category is home to
the one-and-only Chanel No. 5.

58 SUMMER 2021
 FRAGRANCE CANVAS

Catherine
Deneuve
photographed
by Richard
Clockwise from left: The Avedon for
evolution of the Chanel No. 5 a 1972
bottle from 1921 to today Chanel No. 5
advertising
campaign

This year, the iconic eau de parfum turns 100. Throughout For a scent that was once described as “the scent of a
its long life, it has rubbed elbows with some of the biggest woman,” No. 5 is certainly not overly feminine. If it were
names in pop culture (Marilyn Monroe, Catherine Deneuve released today, it would, with tremendous ease, fit in with
and Andy Warhol, to name a few) but has also remained the genderless-fragrance launches that have become
a mainstay on the makeup vanities of perfume lovers increasingly popular in the current beauty climate. Chanel
everywhere. It’s said that one bottle of Chanel No. 5 is sold No. 5 only smells feminine because for 100 years, it set the
every 30 seconds around the globe, after all. It’s a rare standard for women’s fragrances: We think it is because
product that is the epitome of luxury yet accessible to and we’re told that it was. But it actually smells timeless,
beloved by the masses—this is undoubtedly one of the squeaky clean and bright—like freshly washed, still-warm-
secrets to its success. from-the-shower skin. And doesn’t everyone ultimately
With a legacy so storied, where does the scent find itself want to smell clean and like a warmer, more interesting
in 2021? I confess that while I, of course, have always version of themselves? Judging by the many genderless
known Chanel No. 5, I hadn’t regularly worn it until scents that have dropped within the past few years—each
recently. And as any fragrance lover knows, recognizing a delivering a promise of cleanliness and freshness and of
scent and really wearing it—letting it bloom on your skin, being more than a simple summation of its notes—the
follow you into the night and weave itself into the fabric of answer is a resounding yes.
your day-to-day life—are two entirely different experi­ As is the case with any true icon, it has become hard to
ences. Today, when I spritz on No. 5, I’m wearing the separate the facts from the myths within No. 5’s origin
signature scent of countless people in the past, and the story. Make no mistake about it: That’s part of its charm.
scent of countless in the future, projecting myself onto its Though the scent is made up of floral notes, Gabrielle
legacy and writing myself into its rich history. Chanel was allegedly adamant that No. 5 must smell “like
The fragrance starts off with a big burst of soapy florals. a woman, not like a rose.” So how did it arrive at its now
I’m greeted by lily and ylang-ylang before the aldehydes— completely distinctive blend? It has long been rumoured
which give the scent the waxlike, metallic notes it’s that the high dose of aldehydes was accidental. The story
famous for (if you know, you know)— is that perfumer Ernest Beaux created
come through, reminiscent of a bar of samples of many different versions of
soap. The scent is immediately clean, the fragrance to present to Gabrielle. In
but the base of sandalwood, amber, one, he mistakenly added a dose of
vanilla and patchouli gives it a skinlike aldehydes that was far greater than
warmth so it never becomes sterile. anything that would have been in a
Unlike with many other, less sophisti­ fragrance at that time. This blend, as
cated fragrances, I can’t pull No. 5’s fate would have it, was the one she
notes out individually, listing them off fell in love with, and it went on to
one by one as they make themselves become Chanel No. 5. Was the remark­
known. Instead, No. 5 hits my skin ably high dose of aldehydes actually
fully formed and forces me to take it as intentional? Maybe. But where’s the
it is. As it wears and warms, the alde­ fun in that? That’s the thing about
hydes remain the stars of the show, urban legends: When a tale is told over
revealing themselves to be less syn­ and over again, it becomes its own sort
thetic, softer, gentler. Gabrielle Chanel in a 1937 of truth. n
campaign for Chanel No. 5
by François Kollar

SUMMER 2021 59
DO YOU WANT
TO BE PART OF
MUSIC HISTORY?
As one of the world’s most celebrated and Canada’s oldest concert hall, no other
venue brings iconic artists home to you for those electric go-down-in-history
shows. Now you can be part of the legacy by adding your name to the Hall.

Starting from $500, name your seat in iconic Massey Hall.

masseyhall.com/seatnaming

Limited quantity available. Image of the Allan Slaight Auditorium, by Joseph Fuda
TEXT BY BERNADETTE MORRA. PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATASHA GERSCHON. LEFT: TOP, $1,355, PANTS, $1,355, BAG, $1,305, AND HAT, $435, BALENCIAGA. SHOES, $30, NIKE. SOCKS, $4, UNIQLO. MIDDLE: TOP, $205, AND
BOTTOMS, $195, KARLA COLLETTO. CUFF, $860, HERMÈS. SUNGLASSES, STYLIST’S OWN. RIGHT: DRESS, $13,900, VALENTINO. SHOES, $85, HUNTER. RINGS, FROM $65, COREY MORANIS. HAT, STYLIST’S OWN.

SHORE CLUB

statement headgear to go around.

INSPO
Just because it’s hot outside doesn’t mean
you have to drop the ball on style. There’s
enough saturated colour, loose shapes and
DRESSING • DREAMING • DISCOVERING
 Urban
HEAT
Asian hate has added another layer of anxiety to Fernanda Ly’s life.
But the supermodel is determined to keep her cool.

Words by MISHAL CAZMI Photography by LILY & LILAC

Styling by DAVIAN LAIN Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS

Jacket, $2,900,
top, $1,950,
shorts, $1,750,
and necklace,
$1,150, Dior.
Earrings, $130,
Bonheur Jewelry.
Sunglasses, $480,
Dolce & Gabbana.
 Jacket, $5,700,
and top, $630,
Celine by
Hedi Slimane.
Skirt, $3,250,
Chanel. Boots,
$1,900, R13. Hat,
$695, Prada. Bag,
$1,755, Alexander
McQueen.
 COVER STORY INSPO

he Fernanda Ly you see walking the suburbs of Sydney. The honours student was

T
down the runway and posing in pursuing an architecture degree at the University of
editorials and ad campaigns is the Technology Sydney until her career was catapulted
personification of cool. She exudes by a single catwalk appearance. Once the work
both a quiet magnetism and an air started pouring in, she pressed pause on her studies
of mystery that some might and turned her full attention to modelling.
interpret as her being standoffish. Ly went on to book shows and ad campaigns for
Fernanda Ly in real life is warm fashion heavyweights like Dior, Chanel, Tiffany &
and self-effacing, with softer Co. and H&M. She also travelled the world—
edges. For someone whose from Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve (to raise
presence commands attention on camera, she’s pretty awareness for elephant conservation) to near Mount
much attention-averse when she’s off the clock. Fuji for a photo shoot. Meanwhile, her quirky fashion
Except for when it matters. That’s when Ly shows sensibility made her a street-style favourite and
up and isn’t afraid to speak out. her striking pink hair topped every beauty mood
Her YouTube channel provides perhaps the most board. (FYI, her much-lauded cotton-candy strands
intimate look at the real Ly, showing many facets of were a DIY dye job, thanks to some bleach and
her prismatic personality. Originally intended as a Manic Panic.)
behind-the-scenes look at what it’s like being a Despite her success, Ly strove to be more than, in
working model in the fashion industry, it has evolved, her words, “a hanger.” In 2017, she contributed to a
thanks to the pandemic, into a channel for Ly’s varied series of personal essays on Models.com, bringing
and sometimes niche interests—her luxury handbag light to the sexual harassment within the modelling
and shoe collections, her adventures in building a industry. She shared her experience of being
mechanical keyboard and her love of beauty, anime inappropriately touched by a stylist and pointed out
and cosplay. But she also doesn’t shy away from the various ways models are mistreated. Many of the
digging deeper, especially when sharing the realities models who also shared their experiences for the
of being a model—the good and the bad. “The fashion website’s survey chose to remain anonymous. “I also
industry is really secretive, even though it has such a heavily considered that,” she admits, before adding:
luxurious image,” says Ly on a Zoom call from New “It feels more personal when you know who and what
York. “I want potential models to be aware of what someone experienced. I wanted people to know that
they’re signing up for and to bring awareness to the they’re not alone.”
unsavoury parts.” This decision might seem at odds with the model’s
Ly first came blazing into the fashion world at reticent personality, especially since Ly has always
age 19 with her pastel-pink hair, turning heads on a safeguarded her personal space. “There are some
runway full of notables as she walked Louis Vuitton’s things that I believe are more important than my
Fall 2015 show. She was booked by creative director privacy, which is why I choose to speak out about
Nicolas Ghesquière, who signed her on for a five- them,” she explains. It’s why the thoughtful slivers
season runway exclusive. Ly not only mesmerized that she does share carry more weight.
attendees of Paris Fashion Week but also drew the Ly inadvertently became the cool Asian model,
fashion world’s collective attention—it practically which came with its own set of pressures and
vibrated with excitement. expectations, especially for someone her age.
This was a pretty impressive feat for a girl who’d “People had an image of me, and I wanted to reach
been scouted just two years previously, before her that image and be who they thought I was without
final high-school exams, at a shopping centre in her really knowing who I was within myself,” she shares.
hometown of Sydney, Australia. Before that, Ly had She also became aware of how the industry tends to
lived a relatively normal existence. She was born to view Asian models. “Asians are not a monolith,” says
Chinese parents who had moved to Australia from Ly. “Everyone thinks an Asian person is Chinese,
Vietnam in search of a better life and was raised in Japanese or Korean. They always think of East Asia, »

SUMMER 2021 65
Top, $1,180,
leggings, $675,
and belt, $515,
Etro. Sunglasses,
$185, Lu Goldie.
Earrings, $390,
Nickho Rey.
Bag, $2,790,
Burberry. Bracelet,
$310, Sportmax.
 Top, $2,190,
and skirt,
$1,280, Burberry.
Bag, $5,750,
Louis Vuitton.
Top, $1,410,
and shorts,
$1,505, Dolce &
Gabbana. Shoes,
$335, Larroudé.
Necklace, $310,
Lele Sadoughi.
Dress, $4,325, Stella McCartney. Belt, $1,130, Alexander McQueen.
INSPO COVER STORY

THERE ARE BILLIONS OF ASIANS

OUT THERE, SO WHY WOULD PEOPLE
THINK WE ALL LOOK THE SAME?

but there’s also Southeast Asia. And when they want As more people get vaccinated and there’s a
an Asian model, it’s always a model with black hair glimmer of hope, Ly’s uneasiness remains. “There’s
and pale skin. People don’t realize that we also come always this lingering sense of sadness and anger
in many different colours and varieties. There are because we’re all worried about what the next big
billions of Asians out there, so why would people thing will be,” she says. Something as simple as
think we all look the same?” stepping outside has become a big deal. “It’s supposed
When it comes to identity, Ly has struggled with to be safe to go outside, but it’s still just very scary.
being put into boxes and never quite neatly fitting into What if I’m next?” When her friends go biking, in
any of them. She’s too Australian to be the Asian addition to their masks, they wear sunglasses and a
model, too Chinese to be the Australian model and hat and tie their hair back so they won’t be easily
not Chinese enough since her parents are from identified as Asian. “This is something they’re
Vietnam. Once she moved abroad, she realized that supposed to be doing for leisure,” laments Ly.
she actually feels Australian the most. Ironically, it’s Despite the challenges of the pandemic, there have
the part of her identity that she gets questioned about been some silver linings. Ly, who admits to being a
most often. homebody, has learned to readjust. She taught herself
Earlier this year, anti-Asian hate crimes grew and video editing for her YouTube channel. Last
gave rise to the Stop Asian Hate movement, which December, she brought home a kitten named Butter
added another layer to a pandemic that was already who has kept her smitten and entertained. When
rife with challenges. “It’s about time that people the fashion industry pivoted to Zoom shoots, Ly
became aware of our experiences, which aren’t just welcomed some of the creative control she got as
limited to America,” she says. “They’re shared global a model. “We had to do our own makeup or wear
experiences and something that the Asian diaspora our own stuff, which was really fun,” she says.
has grown up with. The situation has gotten worse in And the pandemic has also strengthened some
the past few years, where casual racism has become of her friendships.
very openly accepted.” Right now, her modelling work has started to pick
Ly is no stranger to it either. “I think you’d be up again. Another thing that likely won’t remain the
hard-pressed to find an Asian person who hasn’t same for much longer is Ly’s hair colour, which has
experienced racism of some sort in their life,” she says. been blond for the past two years. When she dyed it
“I have—through work. People try to talk about me, after almost seven years of sporting the same shade,
not knowing that English is my first language and she decided that this was the new her—older and
that I can understand them. It seems small, but it wiser. But whatever colour palette she lands on next,
builds a lot of anger and resentment within you she has already proven that she’s more than just “the
over the years.” girl with the pink hair.” n

70 SUMMER 2021
 Dress, $1,835,
Isabel Marant.
Shoes, $1,150,
Burberry.
Sunglasses, $480,
Dolce & Gabbana.
Earrings, $190,
Alison Lou. Bag,
$3,600, Hermès.
 Blouse, $1,860,
shorts, $790,
necklace, $685,
leather belt, $700,
and chain
belt, $1,670,
Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello.
 Jacket, top
and skirt,
prices upon
request, Boss.
Necklace, $1,985,
Alexander
McQueen.
Collared shirt,
$235, Danielle
Guizio. Green top,
$1,540, and skort,
$2,530, Valentino.
Earrings, $180,
Alison Lou.

Hair, Ben Jones

for Bridge Artists/
Redken. Makeup,
Allie Smith for
Bridge Artists/
MAC. Manicure,
Elina Ogawa for
Bridge Artists/
Zoya. Photography
assistant, Chris
Cook. Fashion
assistants, Pierina
Carlin and
Jacqueline Benn
Schuppe. Makeup
assistant, Tomomi
Gonzalez.
Left: Coat, $2,450,
and bags, from
$345, Max Mara.
Sunglasses,
$10, IN Shoes.
Right: Coat, shirt
and shorts, prices
upon request,
Boss. Bag, $2,130,
Max Mara.
 OLID

STATE
Melt their minds with
top-to-toe pattern-free colour.

Photography by NATASHA GERSCHON Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS Styling by LUCIA PERNA
Left: Jacket, $460,
Hugo. Top, $455,
and bottoms, $185,
Hermès. Bag,
$40, Herschel.
Necklaces, $185
each, Corey
Moranis. Right:
Jacket, $995, and
shorts, $300,
Boss. Top, $140,
Frankies Bikinis.
Hat, $5, IN Shoes.
Sunglasses, $430,
The Attico x Linda
Farrow at Archives
Toronto. Earrings,
$100, Wasted
Effort. Rings,
from $65,
Corey Moranis.
Top, $395, Sid Neigum. Shorts, $285, Orlebar Brown. Shoes, $60, Crocs. Bag, $3,600, Louis Vuitton. Socks, $4, Uniqlo.
 Left: Jumpsuit,
$5,800, Dior. Bag,
$4,050, Hermès.
Right: Jacket,
$390, Moose
Knuckles. Dress,
$700, Markoo.
Earrings, $135,
Corey Moranis.
Sunglasses, $150,
Raen x Alex Knost.
Jacket, $160, Noize.
Top, $160, Frankies
Bikinis. Pants,
$1,375, Proenza
Schouler. Bag,
$1,600, Hermès.
Bodysuit, price
upon request,
Vaillant Studio.
Earrings, $140,
Wasted Effort.
Top, price upon request, Boss. Bottoms, $115, Frankies Bikinis. Bracelets, from $90, and earrings, $135, Corey Moranis. Hat, $5, IN Shoes.
 Dress, price
upon request,
Hyke. Shoes, $85,
Hunter. Bracelets,
from $90, and
rings, from $75,
Corey Moranis.
Sunglasses, $640,
Moy Atelier at
Archives Toronto.
Top, $250, T-shirt,
$200, and pants,
$500, Boss.
Shoes, $200,
Asics at SVP
Sports. Duffle bag,
$65, hobo bag,
$30, and belt bag,
$40, LeSportsac.
Sunglasses,
$140, Chimi at
Gravitypope.
 Bodysuit, price
upon request,
Kenzo. Shoes, $15,
and hat, $5,
IN Shoes.
Bracelets, from
$130, Corey
Moranis. Socks,
$10, Uniqlo.
Coat, shirt, shorts and shoes, prices upon request, Boss.
 Left: Dress,
$13,900,
Valentino. Bag,
$70, LeSportsac.
Rings, from $65,
Corey Moranis.
Hat, stylist’s own.
Right: Top, $1,355,
pants, $1,355, bag,
$1,305, and hat,
$435, Balenciaga.
Shoes, $30, Nike.

Hair and makeup,

Sabrina Rinaldi for
P1M.ca/Make Up
For Ever. Fashion
assistant, Neil
Franklyn. Prop
styling, Caitlin
Doherty. Models,
Stephen for Want
Management,
Nyabel Gatkuoth
for Sutherland
Models and Kyla
for Plutino Group.
INSPO COLLECTING

Getting
Her Kicks
Toronto-based artist Briony
Douglas on what draws her
to covetable running shoes.
By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER

I
n recent years, visual artist Briony
Douglas has not only gained a great
amount of attention for her quirky
and thought-provoking works but
also grown her reputation as a serious
sneaker collector. It’s an interest that
started in her youth but truly jumped
off through her involvement in a 2018
photo shoot that heralded a collabora-
tion between Nike’s Jordan Brand
and Vogue.
Since then, she has gone on to
collect everything from Rick Owens’s
infamous “Dunks”—so called due to
their resemblance to a patented style
by Nike (for which Owens received
a cease-and-desist order, thereby
making them a highly desired item
for a sneakerhead)—to L.A.-based
creative Melody Ehsani’s Wmns Air
Jordan 1 Mid “Fearless” style.
“The latter are one of my favourite
pairs of shoes,” shares Douglas over
Zoom. She came upon them in a
way that was very different from
her usual online hunts via auction
sites like eBay and retailer raffles;
she was forced to do so because of »

92 SUMMER 2021
 collecting INSPO

GRAIL SAFE
Jerry lorenzo’s collaborative shoe
with nike is one pair that Douglas
doesn’t wear. “they’re the most
iconic sneakers in my collection
because this is the only time
nike ever allowed a designer
to redesign a performance
shoe,” she says.

HUE TIME
Douglas owns
several pairs
of sneakers in
shades of pink.
“i keep my
collection in mind
when buying
clothes,” she
says of how
she marries her
passion with
her outfits.

SHE STANS
one of Douglas’s most recent artistic projects was
a stan smith sculpture made from almost 10,000
donated bottle caps. “it speaks to the sustainability
initiatives adidas is adopting for its production,” she says.
PhotograPhY BY Danielle levasseur. hair anD MakeuP, vanessa BauDner.

ALL ACCESS
Douglas says she does most of her sneaker
shopping online due to demand, highlighting
toronto’s Makeway as one of her favourite spots
because of its female-centric ethos.

summer 2021 93
INSPO COLLECTING

INSIDE SCOOP
“I spend a lot of time researching,” says
Douglas. “And I get a lot of information
from friends. There’s always somebody
who knows when a drop is happening.”
PROFESSIONAL
ATTIRE
“As I’ve moved
more deeply into
the street-culture
world, I’ve seen
a huge shift in
my work,” says
Douglas about
how sneakers
have become a
muse. “I do what
I love; you’ll see
this come through
in my work.”

COMMUNITY PRIDE
Douglas points to Instagram accounts
@if_i_cant_wear_snkrs and @simplykiah as resources
for learning about sneaker history and drops.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR. HAIR AND MAKEUP, VANESSA BAUDNER.

SEEING VISIONARIES
“I’ve always been artistic,” says Douglas. “My love of fashion
came later, as I grew to appreciate it, and I respect it
because I view it as art, too.” No wonder she’s captivated
by these zesty-yellow trainers from creative phenom Virgil
Abloh’s 2019 collaboration with Nike.

94 SUMMER 2021
 COLLECTING INSPO

the prevalence of bots that snap up

much-anticipated sneakers upon their
release. Douglas says with a laugh
that while she was on-set for a shoot,
she would sneak around corners
trying to buy a pair online, but within
minutes they were gone. After learn-
ing of the bots’ cull, Ehsani made a
move to correct this unfair advantage.
“She went on her IG Live a few
hours later and said: ‘I know what
happened. If you want them, DM me
right now,’” recalls Douglas. “If you
were lucky enough to have her open
your DM, you’d get them. And my
message was opened.”
Douglas shares that bots are a huge
bane for collectors, especially given
how much of a digitized undertaking
snagging sneakers has become. “You
almost always have to buy them on
resale now, which is crazy expensive,”
she notes. Given their precious nature,
Douglas treats her assemblage ten-
derly, storing them in compartmental-
ized shelving units and even keeping
some pairs purely for visual pleasure.
“I’m very careful,” she adds. “I
check the weather before I go out. If
I’m going to an event that’s going to
be crowded, I won’t wear a yellow
pair because they’re going to get
stepped on.” The hands-on nature
of her work means that for certain
scenarios, she’ll wear many different
pairs of sneakers. For example, she
travelled with 10 pairs for a five-day
trip to record behind-the-scenes
content of the construction of a five-
metre whale sculpture (made out of
recycled materials) in Vancouver. She
wore prized pairs for recording and
then switched them out to continue
YEEZY DOES IT working on the installation.
“It’s been interesting to see These preservation measures raise
luxury auction houses selling the question: What will Douglas
sneakers,” notes Douglas. eventually do with her sneakers?
Here, she’s wearing 2021 “I’m very lucky to be at a point in
Foam Runner shoes from my career where I can just collect,”
Yeezy; the first prototype she says. “I’ll sell something if
style made by the brand there’s a big grail I want. [For the
recently sold at a Sotheby’s uninitiated, that means an extremely
auction for $1.8 million. rare pair.] My boyfriend is con-
stantly swapping—that’s part of the
game for him. I get that, but I really
love all of my shoes.” n

SUMMER 2021 95
INSPO essay

Treading
Carefully

After finding herself in a dangerous situation,

Lynn Crosbie rethought her stance on heels.
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY JASON PIETRA/TRUNK ARCHIVE

On Wednesday, March 3 Of this year, a yOung Marketing executive left her friend’s hOMe
in South London and began a 50-minute walk home.
She would never arrive.
Sarah Everard was wearing brilliant orange and green sneakers that picked up the colours in her jacket and clashed
fantastically with her diamond-patterned dark-blue pants.
I admit to wondering what shoes she had been wearing when she was seized—were they heels for a night out, heels
that hindered her from getting away?—and then I shook my head. Heels, sneakers, the winged shoes of Hermès... There

96 summer 2021
 essay INSPO

is no getting away from a predator who has cruel ways of I am dressed in my cherished punk­girl spikes and a
stopping you in your tracks—the cruellest being gaining scrap of black velvet. I feel stronger in heels, as I tower over
your trust. people, including these men.
Indeed, since COVID-19, every woman on the diminished But the subway will be closed when I reach my stop,
streets is wearing sneakers—or flat black boots in the colder and they may follow me. I have to get home via a long,
months. Heels seem to have become extinct. dark underpass.
I remember the last pair I saw—it’s as if they were a What to do?
dodo: Colossally tall and white, these sandals were decor­ I gather up my stilettos and, when the doors open, run
ated with smashing bits of hot pink. This was before we like Atalanta, barefoot all the way.
all began living in various versions of our pyjamas. “Il faut savoir souffrir pour être belle” is the old Gallic
Is it the pandemic that’s putting us in comfortable shoes? expression, but soon I would wonder, “Must we?”
Or is it another example of fashion’s eerie prescience? Sarah Everard could not have outrun her attacker any
As we trudge through the second year of COVID, most more than Ted Bundy’s victims could have—though some,
women have given up on dressing up. My friends tell me snatched from a beach, were able to resist his lethal ways.
they now dress in overalls, leggings and “rags.” Bralettes I have switched to flats. No...better than that...to
have replaced underwire; messy updos trump blowouts; Dr. Martens—virtual weapons that I wear with very fem-
jewellery, makeup and fetching inine little hand-cut vintage
tops are for Zoom calls only— frocks—and I carry a box cutter
and heels? in my purse.
They’re done.
Yet heels had already begun to
KARL This fashion shift coincided
with the third wave of feminists
disappear from the oracular fash­
ion landscape. Karl Lagerfeld
LAGERFELD loaded with pretty power: These
were fast and frightening girls
showed his Spring 2014 couture
collection for Chanel entirely with
ONCE SAID, who breathed life into the dictum
“dressed to kill.”
lace, pearl and tweed sneakers.
For several years now, Gucci, WITH KINDNESS, Dressing to kill is an erotic
enough suggestion: One may
Chanel, Balenciaga and Alexander conjure Sharon Stone in Basic
McQueen have been producing DON’T Instinct, crossing and uncrossing
hot running shoes, adding choice her mile­long heel­clad pins in an
beyond the classic Adidas and
Nikes and more cultish sneaker­
DRESS TO interrogation room or raging in
bed with an ice pick close at hand.
head brands. The old commuter
shoe—still a white boxy staple—
KILL; DRESS But what about being killed?
Lagerfeld once said, with
has officially transitioned into an
important item to accessorize
TO SURVIVE. kindness, “Don’t dress to kill;
dress to survive.”
suits and dresses—a once unthink­ The sneaker wave (with short
able combination. skirts and pants) allows for
And then sneakers have about a million pairing possibil- increased mobility, which in turn allows us to run like hell
ities and are sleeker and more dazzling, streamlined and/ should we be pursued.
or colourful than ever. The look? Gorgeous kicks worn Sneakers and badass boots never get caught in streetcar
with virtually everything—from luminous sequined gowns tracks either. Perhaps high and skyscraper heels should
to abbreviated denim skirts to those skinny jeans that just only be worn at home, since they can’t be slipped off for a
won’t quit. long terror-dodging run or fast-moving traffic.
Once again, fashion is looking forward, seeing a world The fact remains that some women face danger by walk­
at rest and walking restlessly—and something more: fear ing outside and others face it by staying home.
and our desire to outrun it. Just last week, I heard two separate tracks of click and
I have felt trapped in my shoes, I recall... clack—not enough to signify a wave but possibly a sign
I am 21, surrounded and being aggressed by four men that women are becoming restless and are prepared to move
on the subway whose idea of flirtation is to talk about away from the invisibility engendered by wearing sun­
murdering women. glasses, masks and lint-covered lounge attire.
I am a de facto riot girl, political and scholarly. I love Wherever these tall risk takers are going, it may be
clothes—and love itself. I study a set of foxed and faded fantastically imprudent to locate those spike heels in white
tarot cards daily, never asking if I am safe. and pink and follow them. n

summer 2021 97
INSPO ♥ IT FOREVER

TEXT BY BERNADETTE MORRA. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON. BIKE, $35,000, LOUIS VUITTON.

Be Spoke
Here’s a new spin on status cycling. Louis Vuitton’s made-to-order two-wheeler is handcrafted in collaboration with Maison
Tamboite Paris, an artisanal bicycle maker established in 1912. Each bike boasts a leather saddle and leather-covered handle-
bars and cables, a monogrammed flower chainset, an interlocking-LV-shaped frame and a front basket or rear luggage rack.
Initials can be hot-stamped above the back wheel or on the bike’s frame. It’s available in a variety of sizes, and there are five
models in the permanent collection as well as limited-edition designs by contemporary artist Urs Fischer. The finished product
arrives in a wooden crate with no assembly needed, so all your energy can be reserved for that uphill challenge.

98 SUMMER 2021
 B® CHANEL S. de R.L.
©CHANEL, Inc. CHANEL ®

Vancouver Calgary Toronto Bloor Toronto Flagship Toronto Yorkdale Montreal

(604) 682-0522 (403) 232-6240 (416) 964-1085 (416) 925-2577 (416) 784-0990 (514) 842-7318