LT16

3
Official Partners
A publication of Hospitality Services in a joint

venture with Beyond Beirut
Group Editor Nouhad Dammous
Managing Director
Joumana Dammous-Salamé
Consultative Director Myriam Shuman
Beyond Beirut Consultant Nell Abou Ghazale
Editor Natalie Shooter
Sub Editors Sabina Llewellyn-Davies,
Brighid Webster
Autumn
Contributors Annie Keropian-Dilsizian, Florence
Beland, Jimmy Dabbagh, Roland Ragi, Martine
Btaich, Mazin Sidahmed, Nour Farra-Haddad,
speaks
Roman St Clair, Sam Tarling, Zeinab Jeambey
Publication Coordinator Rita Ghantous
Subscription Coordinators Mirna Maroun, Houayda
Haddad-Rouman
Sales team Roxane Fersane, Randa Dammous- Fall is every bit the season of the lands, as temperatures cool down, the
Pharaon, Maha Khoury-Hasbani, Michel Ajoub and landscape’s colors melt, leaves fall and the time of harvest is upon us.
Josette Hikri-Nohra Traditionally it’s a festive time for Lebanon’s rural parts – when villagers come
Graphic Designer Rebecca Haddad together to make their yearly harvest, from picking the olives of ancient trees to
Circulation Coordinator Karl Hitti make that golden olive oil, to plucking apples and bringing in the grapes for wine
Editorial Assistant Roula Koussaifi
and arak; all ending in hearty village feasts. Plenty of groups offer harvesting
daytrips (NEOS Kids, 03 733818, neoslb.com; Auberge Hadath El Jebbeh, 01
Production and Printing Arab Printing Press
680222, hadatheljebbeh.com), where you can work with farmers to bring in the
year’s growth, it’s the perfect way to celebrate the season and connect to nature.
Published by Hospitality Services s.a.r.l.
Burghol Building, Dekwaneh, Lebanon This issue we speak to the director of the Beiteddine Festival, Nora Joumblatt,
P.O.Box 90 155 Jdeidet el Metn 1202 2020
to find out about the new “Authentic Shouf” campaign, to boost tourism to the
To advertise contact our office at
01 480081 Fax: 01 482876 region and promote its local traditions. We explore Lebanon’s national drink,
arak, and meet the women behind the country’s rural cooperatives who are
We welcome views on any relevant subject. The preserving local food traditions. We visit the Bekaa Valley’s Qab Elias, taking in
editor reserves the right to select and edit letters. the town’s historical landmarks and stop at independent music producer, Zeid
Please e-mail your comments to Hamdan’s Shouf escape; a home intertwined with history.
[email protected]
There’s a healthy fix of Beirut culture too; from architect Galal Mahmoud’s
redesign of the Beirut institution, Le Bristol Hotel, to the historic antique
district, Basta. As always, we deliver your practical hands-on guide to Lebanon
tracking down the experts to bring you the best places to stay, eat and visit
around the country.
Find your own fall and take us on your journey

Tag us #LebanonTraveler
Cover photo courtesy Like us LebanonTraveler
of Clement Tannouri Write us [email protected]
lebanontraveler.com
4
06 News
Contents The lastest happenings around the country

09 A Day With
Nakhal: a Lebanese travel institution
10 Shopping
100% made in Lebanon
12 Interview
Nora Joumblatt on the Authentic Shouf
14 Hot Topic
Arak: the milk of lions
18 Responsible Tourism
We meet the women of the land
22 Focus On
5 things to do in Qab Elias
26 Art & Culture
Beirut, city of art Photo: Deniz Abaci
28 Outdoor Action
Life’s little pleasures
32 Culinary Heritage
Ambarees: a potted history
36 The Great Escape
Haig Melikian shoots Chabrouh Dam
38 Touring Lebanon
The icon above
42 Customs & Traditions
Tripoli’s copper tradition
44 Design In Lebanon
Reviving a long heritage
46 Indoors 38
The Sursock Museum’s rebirth
50 Region Through An Artist’s Eyes
Zeid Hamdan’s Shouf sanctuary
54 In Focus Beirut
Basta: an old story
58 Getaways
Four weekend destinations
60 Best Beds
Guesthouses around the country
61 On The Table
Nabil Shuman’s restaurant picks
62 Trail
Exploring Ashrafieh with Zawarib
64 Agenda
What’s on this fall
66 Insider Tips 18
Tania Kassis’ Lebanon loves
lebanontraveler.com
5
Contributors
Clement Tannouri
Photographer, designer, and
entrepreneur, Clément Tannouri plays
with talent, ingenuity, and expertise.
His photographs are artworks imprinted
with authenticity and essential beauty.
Whether natural or urban landscapes,
aerial views, or architecture, neither the
subject nor the time slips away from him.
Martine Btaich
Martine Btaich is an independent
14 professional working in community
and rural tourism development. She is
also the Vice President of the Lebanon
Mountain Trail Association. Her motto
is inherited from her father’s “Al
Ard marja’a,” meaning “Earth is the
reference!”
28 Zeinab Jeambey
With a background in dietetics
and food tourism, Zeinab Jeambey
is a specialist in food heritage
management and has developed the
first food tourism trail in Lebanon,
Darb el Karam, one of the main
programs of the Food Heritage
Foundation.
46 Haig Melikian
10 years ago in the summer of 2005,
Haig Melikian bought a bicycle and
started to ride with groups. He soon
became a passionate cyclist, beginning
to do longer rides and go to new places
alone. When he got a phone with a good
camera he started taking photos of his
rides, documenting the villages and old
houses he saw during his ride.
Nour Farra-Haddad
Nour Farra-Haddad manages her
own travel consultant company,
NEOS, specializing in pilgrimages
and religious tourism. She is also a
founding member of the Association
for the Development of Pilgrimages and
22 Religious Tourism and the author of
Eco-Lebanon and Wiz Kids guide books.
lebanontraveler.com
More online
6 lebanontraveler.com
News 5 MINUTES WITH…

Bahi Ghubril
NEW OPENINGS
Places to stay
Inspired by metro maps, Zawarib’s new Beirut Urban

Trail map captures the best the city has to offer
through themed routes. The company’s founder and
CEO, Bahi Ghubril gives LT the low down
How did you select the places to feature on

the Zawarib Beirut Urban Trail map?
Beit Douma, photo: Roland Ragi These are the places within Zawarib's world! They
are a selection of what we consider venues that
The trend of boutique guesthouses has picked up pace in Lebanon are helping put Beirut on the map (pun intended)
over the last year with new openings all around the country. Beit and which serve to define each neighborhood in its
Douma (06 520702, beitdouma.com) is Souk El Tayeb’s latest opening; unique way. The bars of Hamra vs the snazzy locals
a carefully restored 19th Century Lebanese home in the Batroun of Downtown’s Uruguay Street or the art galleries
Mountains. Set in one of the country’s most well preserved heritage of Mar Mikhael vs its nightlife. Each place has been
villages it is the project of Kamal Mouzawak, founder of Souk El Tayeb curated in a way to offer the newcomer – whether to
and Mar Mikhael restaurant Tawlet and renowned fashion designer live or visit – a quick inside scoop of the wonderful
Rabih Kayrouz. A calm weekend retreat, surrounded by olive groves and inimitable energy that makes Beirut, Beirut.
apple orchards, Beit Douma offers modern luxury and tradition with
its vaulted wooden ceilings, arched windows and six pastel-painted Why did you decide to do the maps in metro-
bedrooms. Dar Alma (07 740082, Dar Alma) is a newly opened map style?
boutique hotel in Tyre. A converted 19th Century traditional house We love the idea of mapping in all its varieties, and
in one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, Dar Alma has unbeatable these “category” lines make it easy to follow one
bedroom views with the balconies opening directly out on the sea. activity that you'd like to discover. It is also clean
and recognizable, and user-friendly. The idea that
some places offer more than one activity (where lines
intersect) also quickly reveals to the user an idea
Green spaces of “nodes” within each neighborhood where lots of
activity can happen. We are always looking at different
Two park openings ways to promote our chosen places, and coming up
with sexy mapping is a challenge and delight.
After NGO Nahnoo (nahnoo.org) kept the
pressure on with an ongoing campaign, How can the maps aid people on a rich tour of
Horsh Beirut, the city’s biggest park has Beirut?
partly reopened to the public. Though Using one of our maps [is like having a] local guide
currently the park will only open one day to show you around the hidden treasures. Of course
a week – every Saturday from 7am-7pm one can get lost, but you can also do that with our
– after a 20-year closure it shows there is a maps, knowing that there's always a way out! Zawarib
light at the end of the tunnel. Also, in Ain is your local guide. The places we show and the maps
Aar, Mount Lebanon, new green space The we produce are essentially a way to communicate our
Park (71 533445, The Park, thepark-lb.com) love and knowledge of this incredible city.
offers a weekend escape for families with a zawarib.org
whole range of outdoor activities.
lebanontraveler.com
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8 Festival
News lebanontraveler.com
NEWS IN BRIEF
# A conference was held at the Lebanese University of
INSTA SNAPSHOT Handicraft factory, Beirut
Beirut this summer, promoting sustainable tourism in
Bkassine and the surrounding areas, through an ongoing Our “Instagram of the issue” was taken by consultant Sabine
project under the European Commission’s Heland Karam. “I was visiting for work and this machine took me back
Program. It entails creating a geo-park in the Bkassine- to when I was six. I used to go with my parents to spend the
Jezzine forest and the Shouf reserve – an area of summer vacation in Jezzine, where my grandma had an old
geological heritage of international importance directed Singer sewing machine,” she told LT.
towards sustainable use. Tag #LebanonTraveler in your photos to be the next Insta Snapshot
# With the future of Dalieh at threat, a long publically
used space by the sea in Raouche, a group of campaigners
have come together to call for its protection. The civil
campaign (dalieh.org) is working on several fronts from
raising public awareness to a lawsuit and a competition
proposing future visions for the public-use of the space.
# The Arab Council of Tourism has elected Jbeil as the
2016 Arab Tourism Capital, further underlining the
ancient city’s importance as a destination in the region.
# A conference was held at the Lebanese University on 22
July for Lebanese beekeepers, to highlight improvements
in the field of honey producing. The conference was
organized by the Lebanon Industry Value Chain
Development project, funded by USAid. Within two years
the project has increased exports by 52 percent.
For more news visit lebanontraveler.com

& follow us on
A Day With 9
At the height
of Lebanese tourism
nowadays we want to turn our attention to
regions in Lebanon that have a lot to offer,
yet remain only partially explored, such
as the Akkar region in the North and some
parts of the South close to the border.”
Over time the origin of Nakhal’s customers
has changed. In the aftermath of the
Lebanese civil war, most clients for local
tours were Lebanese. The insecurity at
the time, coupled with the desire to move
on and to discover the country in yet
unrevealed ways, pushed Lebanese in
great numbers to book tours with Nakhal,
in order to be guided across Lebanon’s
regions. This attitude did not prevail
though and now a lot of Nakhal’s clients
As one of the oldest travel come from abroad.
agencies in Lebanon, Nakhal According to Elie, one of the agency’s Expert tips
is certainly an authority in the greatest qualities is its innovative drive: Routes: “Never take the highway, always
“Everything that exists on the Lebanese take side roads. They are so much more
field of tourism. Elie Nakhal, tourism market has been initiated by scenic. When driving to Jbeil, I always
the company’s current owner, us, whether in terms of destination or take the seaside road.”
speaks to LT about its journey service.” Nakhal has also shown a strong
Care for the mood: “Feeding people is
perseverance: “For 25 years, we never
cancelled any tour, even in the worst easy, you sit them in a corner and fill
Nakhal, established in 1959, is one of the them up. But there are better ways to
wartime moments.” Summer and winter,
oldest travel agencies in the Lebanese savor Lebanon. Choose a significant
whether there is one client or twenty, tours
tourism industry. Throughout times of setting, more intimate and with a view;
go on all the same.
peace and war, they have foregrounded it is all about the atmosphere.”
Lebanon’s colors and beauty to the world. Today, the company’s challenges lie in
Elie Nakhal, who took over from his father the political instability of the region. “We An underestimated destination:
Joseph as chairman of the company in are far from harnessing the abundance of “Maghdouche. Located on top of a hill, it
1990, is passionate about his work. “Our opportunities that Lebanon can offer as a has a breathtaking view. It is also thought
mission is to make Lebanon known and destination for global tourism.” to be where the Virgin Mary waited for
appreciated. For this, there is no other Jesus when he travelled to Sidon.”
Give it a few more years of peace, Elie believes,
way but to be in love with it yourself.” He A Lebanese feature to love: “Leniency.
and they will reveal a completely different
recounts the evolution of the company: We are the best at dealing with chaos.
Lebanon, of even more bountiful riches.
“We have always ensured tours to the We get on with it.”
great classics such as Paris and Rome. But Florence Beland
lebanontraveler.com
10 Shopping
Made in
Lebanon
With Lebanon’s vibrant design scene
you can find everything from the
kitsch to the comic. LT toured Beirut’s
boutiques to find the designer pieces 1 2
with that Lebanese touch
1. [IN]Leb Women’s t-shirt LL45,000 at

Virgin Megastores, Artisan du Liban and the
Rafic Hariri International Airport inleb.com
2. Green Cedar Lebanon bracelet by

Lara Debs and Pascale Saad LL105,000
(all profits are donated to the Lebanese 3
Army) at Green Cedar Lebanon 03 234006,
4
greencedarlebanon.com
3. I Love Lebanon purse LL33,000 at

Maison De L’Artisan 01 368461/2,
mda.gov.lb, Ain El Mreisseh, Minet El Hosn
4. Hand painted papier-mâché tray by

Nivine Matar LL52,500 at Finikia 01 566867,
Gouraud Street, Gemmayzeh
5. Lebanon coffee tray in wood by Raeda

Kreitem price on demand at Beirut National
Museum boutique 01 612260 or 03 777657
5
6. Rectangular Beirut Clutch with
removable Strap LL97,500 at Scene Beirut
03 698248, scenebeirut.com
7. Metal signs LL22,500 at Glady’s Shop

01 449967, 03 490524, Gouraud Street,
Gemmayzeh
6 7
lebanontraveler.com
12 Interview
the real Shouf
Nora Joumblatt, president of the Beiteddine Festival, is one of

the Shouf’s biggest advocates. LT spoke to her to find out about
“Authentic Shouf,” a new campaign to boost tourism and promote
the traditions, local specialties and natural beauty of the region
lebanontraveler.com
13
What do you consider to be the Is there a focus on rural and eco-

authentic face of the Shouf? friendly tourism in the project? The Shouf is one of the best-
The Shouf is one of the best-preserved A network of rural and eco-friendly tourism preserved regions... It is a
regions, or districts, in Lebanon. The is already in place and thriving thanks
scenery is breathtaking – picturesque to the initiative of the Reserve and the
bastion of nature and culture
villages dot the mountainside and historical Ministry of Tourism.
monuments are found at every turn of the
artistic excellence, cultural diversity
road. Rich in history, having been the site What is the main focus of the tourism and intercultural dialogue. It has also
of the Emirate of Mount Lebanon, there packages? contributed to the economic growth of the
are a wide choice of heritage sites, from
All our tourism packages are designed to region, creating jobs, establishing music
historical palaces to religious sites. The
introduce the visitor to a more authentic and dance institutions, and, of course,
Shouf is also home to the largest nature
experience and a better understanding of promoting cultural tourism on national and
reserve with three major Cedar tree forests,
the natural and cultural heritage, as well international levels.
which enjoy the distinction of being the
as offering a large choice of destinations.
oldest documented forests in history. The
Shouf region is a bastion of nature and Are there any new projects that are
culture, unrivaled on a national level. Which treasures of the Shouf will boosting tourism in the area?
the project highlight? Projects continue to mature in the Shouf,
What are the main aims of the The Shouf Biosphere Reserve is definitely such as Bkerzay crafts and pottery, the
Authentic Shouf campaign? at the top of the list; it is remarkably rich Assaf Brothers workshop, Fadi Mogabgab
in biodiversity and cultural heritage plus Art Contemporain, Souk au Shouf starting
Our primary aim is to promote the whole
it has a large expanse of wetlands. The soon, boutique hotels and guesthouses such
region as a destination, encouraging tourism,
reserve enjoys 1532 acres of cedar forest as Bouyouti and Deir Al Oumara.
as well as eco-tourism related industries,
constituting 30 percent of the remaining
supporting initiatives that directly benefit
cedar forests in the country. With seven Tell us about your favorite lesser-
the economic development of the region
guesthouses in 22 municipalities and 250km known destinations?
while conforming to the distinctiveness of
of hiking trails, the reserve is already a
the historical and natural heritage. There The Niha Fortress is a historical visit with
major eco-tourism destination with over
was a need to set it up, so as to highlight the incredible vistas, and wonderful trails have
70,000 visitors a year.
tremendous assets of the Shouf, helping local opened up such as the Mristi Roman Oak trail,
producers and smaller businesses to perfect the Moukhtara Valley Trail, as well as the new
their products and services [and] making Why are projects such as the Barouk Patriotic Trail.
them more sustainable. Beiteddine Art Festival important?
The Festival [has] proven to be an AuthenticShouf, authenticshouf.com
Who are some of the main invaluable platform for promoting
collaborators you’re working with?
This initiative is a joint effort between the
Lebanese Franchise Association, the Shouf
Traders Association, the committee of the
Al Shouf Nature Reserve and that of the
Beiteddine Festival. We have the support
of the Ministries of Tourism, Environment,
Economy and Agriculture; the Shouf MPs and
municipalities have also endorsed the project.
How will the campaign help promote

local producers and farmers?
The Shouf produces a wide variety of local
products; for example, the Al Shouf Cedar
Reserve has developed a rural program,
which supports local communities and
provides training and marketing outlets for
their produce. Currently there are over 82
products that carry the Shouf Biosphere
Photo: Shouf Biosphere Reserve
Reserve label.
lebanontraveler.com
14 Hot Topic
The milk of
The tradition of Lebanon’s

national drink, arak, remains
lions
It’s the typical Lebanese scene Ω– a
weekend lunch with friends and family, sat
around a feast of mezze. A tabletop jigsaw
will wash away the garlic. Then you can
eat whatever you want to eat. Arak has
the role of [cleaning] your palate and
an essential part of the puzzle of little plates and that essential introducing a new taste,” he says.
Lebanese mezze. LT speaks to element; a jug of arak to share.
Arak has accompanied meals in Lebanon
wine and beverage specialist Lebanon’s national drink, arak, is usually for a over a century and, according to
served at a 2:1 ratio with water. The sight Moutran, its production became more
Najib Moutran to find out
of the anise reacting with the water to prevalent while the Ottomans ruled
if the long heritage of the form a white plume that consumes the Lebanon. “The arak industry is very,
industry is enough for it to whole bariq – a traditional Levantine very old. Not only in Lebanon but all
vessel – is intoxicating in itself. over the Mediterranean basin,” he says,
continue thriving?
citing Greece’s ouzo and Turkey’s raki.
“Arak is the only beverage that can be
“During the Turkish occupation, many of
your loyal companion throughout a meal,”
the Lebanese vineyards that were from
says Najib Moutran, wine and beverage
ancient times were eradicated and pulled
specialist and owner of the management
out for religious reasons because the
company, retailer and bar, The Wine
Ottoman Empire did not allow alcohol
Teller. Moutran, who also specializes in
consumption.” Arak was a much easier
sensorial analysis – the scientific study
alcohol to produce and families with grape
of the human reaction to food and drink
trees outside their houses would make
– explains that arak’s ability to clear the
arak in secret, as there was no need for a
palate is what makes it such a good option
vineyard, Moutran adds.
during meals.
Distilling grape must, which is pressed to
“If you’re eating tabbouleh with a lot
make wine, produces arak. This creates a
of onion inside and you drink arak it
90 percent volume alcohol, which is then
will wash away the onion. If you’re
watered down to approximately 50 percent
eating grilled chicken with garlic, arak
and distilled again while adding anise for
lebanontraveler.com
More online
lebanontraveler.com 15
The arak industry is very, very old

all over the Mediterranean basin
Photo: Myriam Shuman
flavor. Moutran says that the period where However, arak has taken a hit for a variety somebody says that arak is going through
families began making arak in their homes of reasons, such as the rising popularity a crisis, I would tell them no,” he states.
in an artisanal fashion, spawned many of imported spirits such as whiskey and “Because we don’t know the volume that is
large arak-making families who are still Lebanon’s burgeoning wine culture. being produced and consumed.”
producing today.
Moutran believes that arak was not created Moutran explains that the government
Ghantous and Abou Raad, two neighboring for the bar culture of fancy cocktails and does not diligently monitor the production
families in Zahle, have had their own mixology. “Arak is very dominant so you and sale of arak and therefore there is no
distilleries since the Ottomans ruled cannot blend it easily with something record of the amount of arak sold. For him
Lebanon. Popular winemaker Wardy now else,” he says. “Some people tried to blend one of the arak industry’s main strengths is
owns their distillery. The Touma family have it with mint, [others] tried to blend it with its exportation, with many arak producers
also been creating arak since the late 1800s grenadine… but it didn’t succeed because exporting to the Lebanese diaspora in
and the business has been passed down arak is a dominant beverage.” America and Europe who yearn for a taste
from one generation to the next. Today, of home. This is a lucrative business for
Also, many people would rather give a
all major wineries in Lebanon make arak local arak producers and may offset the
bottle of wine as a gift as it offers more
using excess grape must; however Moutran losses from arak’s dip in popularity.
variety – in terms of both age and cost – to
stresses that the highest quality arak is
make a larger statement, whereas arak’s Arak’s companionship is still sought
made from grapes intended for wine.
price is more or less set at LL18,000 and it after around the world, and in Lebanon it
Lebanon’s largest wine makers, Kefraya, is not often distinguished by age. remains an essential tradition alongside
Ksara, and Faqra, all have their own brands mezze, offering a real taste of the country
Despite these indicators, Moutran doesn’t
of arak. There are also more artisanal for tourists and locals alike.
believe that the arak industry is at risk. “If
arak-only distilleries, such as Najem.
lebanontraveler.com
16 Hot Topic
Lebanon’s oldest arak producers

Salim Nakad took over from his father
in the 1950s. He updated the facility’s
distillery and grew the business into the
force that it is today. According to Salim,
arak has less of a presence in the food
culture of Lebanon than it once did. “Now
if you go to weddings during the summer,
you’ll see more people drinking whiskey,”
Salim laments. “It’s not like it once was.”
He hopes that people will support the
Arak As-Samir arak industry in the future for the sake of
Lebanon’s heritage, in a similar way that
Joseph Nakad took over his family’s
the French support their winemakers. Arak
winemaking facility in 1923. He
also forms a bond between Lebanon and
transformed what had previously been
Syria, Salim continues, as anise grown
a pastime of his father’s into one of
in Syria is most commonly used in arak
Lebanon’s most prominent wine and
production in Lebanon. “It’s one of the
arak producers. Joseph’s wine was
few positive connections between the two
popular among French troops serving in
countries during these troubling times.”
Lebanon; Charles De Gaulle tried it when
he stayed in Chtoura and sent Joseph a 08 540191, 03 982654, chateaunakad.com
thank you note. Jdita, Bekaa Valley
business at the age of 12 after his

father passed away in a tragic accident,
believes that arak is an important part of
Lebanese culture. Through his company,
he is working on a campaign to raise
awareness about the culture of arak. “It’s
an awareness campaign to teach young
people what arak is,” Touma explains.
“How to drink it, mix it, and how to
recognize good arak from bad.”
Arak Touma One of the main issues they are

campaigning against is the large amount
The Touma family has been making wine of homemade arak sold at restaurants
since 1888. “My grandfather started it by that contain methanol and other
growing obeidy grapes,” says the 75-year hazardous ingredients as a result of
old owner of Arak Touma, Saeed Touma. improper distillation.
“He would make them into wine and use
the left-overs to make arak.” Touma has bright hopes for the future of
arak. Arak’s reputation suffered during
Before his grandfather and great uncle Lebanon’s 15 year Civil War when a
passed away, they requested that their much lower quality homemade arak was
bodies be buried on the land they grew distributed, he says. Almost 30 years
grapes. “This was to ensure that their later and arak is once again regaining
children would not sell the land and would its reputation. “You could say [that]
continue the business,” Touma explains. 80 percent of the people that stopped
And, that they did. 123 years later, Arak drinking arak have come back to it again,”
Touma is still one of the most highly Touma says. “Production has risen in the
regarded araks in Lebanon. past ten years… the future is positive.”
Touma, who began working in the family 08 500802, Qab Elias Road, Bekaa
lebanontraveler.com
More online
A taste of Lebanon
Arak Brun Arak El Rif
Arak Brun, which dates back to 1868, is Produced by the fifth generation of a
produced inside the cellar of Domaine des family since 1828, Arak El Rif has a long
Tourelles, itself 100 years old. They also history and remains one of the most
make Arak Brun Special Reserve, which popular names in arak today.
uses the same traditional production El Khazen Distillery
process of three-times distillation, but is 76 119719, arakelrif.com
aged for five years in clay jars for purity. Amaret Chalhoub, Nahr El Mot
Domaine des Tourelles
08 540114, domainedestourelles.com
Jdita, Chtaura, Bekaa Valley
Arak Fakra
The Arak Fakra heritage started back
in the early eighteenth century with
Arak Divina one family in Kfardebian. It is prepared
Though its vines were only planted in from Merwah grapes, with aniseed
1995, the plots of Chateau Khoury are from Heena, aged in ancient clay jars
located where the legendary Arak of from Beit Chebab and using water from
Zahle once grew before the war. A family mountain springs, continuing all the
business, Raymond and Brigette El traditional elements to create one of the
Photo: Chateau Nakad Khoury continue making an arak rooted in country’s most highly regarded araks.
that tradition. Chateau Fakra
08 801160, chateaukhoury.com 09 635111, fakra.com
Dhour, Zahle Kfardebian Valley
Ksarak El Massaya Arak

The arak brand of one of the country’s Combining the third distillation with
biggest wine producers, Chateau Ksara, organic aniseed from the village of
Ksarak is flavored with the aniseed of Heena on the Syrian slopes of Mount
Heena, Mount Hermon, before being Hermon, El Massaya Arak is then also
aged for two years in clay jars. aged in traditional clay pots, from
Chateau Ksara the potters of the famous village Beit
Chateauksara.com Chebab.
08 510135, 03 744047, massaya.com
Massaya
Arak Du Rouss Faqra, Kfardebian
The Yaghi family started Chateau
Florentine in 1997 with a love of the land
upon which their family has lived on Arak El Karam
for generations. Continuing a tradition Set in the landscapes of Qattine in the
inherited from their ancestors, they Jezzine region, Karam Winery was founded
added Arak Du Rouss to their wine by two brothers on the lands of their
portfolio. family. Along with wines and Jezzineyac,
Chateau Florentine their eau de vie, they also produce arak.
05 250244, chateauflorentine.com Karam Winery
Majdel Maouche, Shouf 01 370519, karamwines.com
Qattine, Jezzine
Photo: Roula Koussaifi

Words by Mazin Sidahmed
lebanontraveler.com
18 Responsible Tourism
Denaybeh plant to prepare food with borghol, photo: WADA
Women of the land

Cooperatives have not only Traveling is about seeking experiences, and of donor agencies in rural development,
when rural and agro-tourism is considered, job creation and women empowerment,
empowered the women who food and crafts are at the heart of them. has helped local farmers and women
run them in rural regions, Tourism in rural regions is also highly entrepreneurs in developing small scale
but are helping to create a dependent on agriculture as a resource. agro-food cooperatives. Almost all of them
There is a growing demand for healthy food, are offered training programs and technical
more sustainable field of authentic discoveries, and sustainable support in production, hygiene and food
tourism. Martine Btaich, a practices, as visitors seek fresh, seasonal safety, quality standards and marketing.
professional in community and produce and the culinary specialties of
the region, sourced directly from farmers,
sustainable development and local small-scale producers and rural Rural cooperatives and tourism
vice president of the Lebanon cooperatives. Today, more than 151 rural Rural cooperatives have always been a tool
Mountain Trail Association, cooperatives run by women are active for economic and social development in
around Lebanon (crtda.org.lb). They promote marginalized rural areas. The Rural Tourism
explores the women-run local healthy, natural and authentic agro-food Strategy for Lebanon defined rural tourism as
agro-food cooperatives produce and preserves, along with local “experiencing the country” through a variety
crafts; all produced in a traditional way. of tourism activities that have positive
Some cooperatives are also developing impact on the local environment, community
creative fusions that suit an evolution of or culture. It highlighted food discoveries,
tastes and flavors. agriculture and contact with local farmers
It is thought that the first agricultural as one of the key ingredients of tourism
cooperative in Lebanon was established activities taking place in rural areas. Rural
in 1937 in Aabadiyeh. The concept further agro-food cooperatives fit well within this
expanded to other areas, with support from mission, becoming a destination for visitors
the Ministry of Agriculture and in the early to rural areas and a channel for discovering
‘60s, cooperatives were legally recognized. local agro-food specialties and crafts.
Through the years many agro-food According to Samira Akiki, Director of
cooperatives have developed. The interest Atayeb, a rural cooperative run by women
lebanontraveler.com
More online
Women have a big role in

promoting their own village
Photo: APJM Jabal Moussa
Photo: Dalia Khamissi – Shouf Biosphere Reserve Photo: APJM Jabal Moussa
lebanontraveler.com
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20 Responsible Tourism lebanontraveler.com
in Kfardebian, the cooperative “has helped their self-esteem and personality has been The success achieved by WADA, Atayeb and
remind people of authentic flavors.” The boosted. They feel they are more respected Ain el Loz Cooperative are often the result
cooperative produces all types of preserves by their community. Working together like a of the qualities of the women themselves,
and local food produce and is best known family, they have become renowned for their their hospitality and their authentic
for its sour grape juice, apple and prune catering skills and the distillated herbal interest and passion in promoting their
paste and all apple derivatives. The derivatives that Jabal el Sheikh is famous local identities. Though cooperatives
cooperative employs 10 full time women for. Namlieh network and Souk el Tayeb alone are not enough to create a tourism
and 25 seasonal, and also offers catering have helped them market their produce destination – with a full use of resources
services at tourism and private events and and develop their business. They are always needed such as nature, culture and history
supplies hotels and restaurants. “Women present in regional exhibitions and festivals – they remain a major link to bringing
have grown economically, psychologically to promote their village. visitors to rural destinations.
and socially. They are more exposed through
their participation in trainings and in local
and international exhibitions,” says Akiki.
“Women have a big role in promoting their
Meet the co-ops
own village. It is so nice to see women
evolve on a personal level too. They tell
me they love life even more and that they Ain El Lawz Cooperative Kounouz Loubnan
are happier,” says Dunia Khoury, director Ain Aata, Rashaya 71 220874, 03 242979
of the Women Association of Deir El Ahmar 76 520626 [email protected]
(WADA). While the organization is not a Najmat Al Sobeh Rural Delights
cooperative but an NGO, their culture is El Mheidsseh, Rashaya A network of 42 women-owned
similar to one. They have been working 03 502847 agricultural and artisanal cooperatives.
since 1997 on the development of tourism 03 335854
in the area of Deir el Ahmar and surrounding Wadi al Taym
08 592567, 71 349410 Namlieh
villages through community women based
[email protected]
agriculture and hospitality initiatives. The Promoting more than 36 rural women
women were previously housewives and Aita el Fokhar Coop cooperatives.
have now decided to support themselves Ain El Aarish 01 397292
71 688853 [email protected]
and their families without leaving their
namlieh.com
houses or villages. Fourty of them have
Rashaya Gardens
opened their homes as guesthouses and 03 891518 Fair Trade Lebanon
offer meals and many are also engaged in A network of several cooperatives around
crafts and agri-produce. Bint Jbeil Cooperative for Lebanon.
Agricultural Food Processing – 05 952153
Oumaya el Qadi, from Ain Ata, Rashaya, and fairtradelebanon.org,
the 11 women who work alongside her in Zouwada
03 324186 [email protected]
the Ain El Loz Cooperative have been active
since 2005. Their lives have changed and Al Imad Cooperative for Food WADA
Processing The Women’s Association of Deir El
Haris, Bint Jbeil Ahmar
70 927069 Food produce and crafts.
03 622369
Women’s Agricultural
Souk el Tayeb
Cooperative in Deir Kanoun Ras A farmers’ market where several
el Ain cooperatives exhibit every Saturday at
70 430505 Beirut Souks, 9am to 2pm.
01 442664, soukeltayeb.com
Alberto
Zouk Mikhael Nature Reserves
70 500566 The Shouf Biosphere Reserve, Tannourine
[email protected] Nature Forest Reserve, the Association
Atayeb Kfardebian for the protection of Jabal Moussa, Ehden
Kfardebian Nature Reserve and many others, are acting
03 845257 as channels for local agro-produce from
cooperatives in their respective areas.
Photo: Shouf Biosphere Reserve
lebanontraveler.com
22 Focus On
5 things to do
in and around
Qab Elias
The Bekaa Valley offers the perfect Fall escape, bringing heritage, nature and
agricultural experiences into the mix. Follow the road to the historical town of Qab
Elias and its surrounding lands to discover a vibrant fruit and vegetable market,
archeological remnants of another time and ecotourism activities
1 Qab Elias
The town has many historical and archeological treasures Prophet Elijah, dating back to the Middle Ages. The town
scattered around it. The Roman altar, known as the also has a statue built in 1927 to commemorate the
Haydara, is carved into the rock of a cliff. Don’t miss the French soldiers sent to Lebanon in 1860 by Napoleon III.
remains of the Fakhreddine Fortress, a 10-meter-long The municipality of Qab Elias has developed two hiking
wall that stands on the top of a hill above the town. It trails; beginning near the forest and leading visitors past
was a strategic location overlooking the flat plains below, the landmarks. Starting September, Qab Elias celebrates
with a breeze that still blows from the Valley of Wadi el its local agri-food produce, mouneh, at its yearly fair.
Delm. Nearby in Ras el Ain is a Roman tomb and a curious Visitors can also enjoy environmental trips, harvest
inscription from the Iron Age. activities and cycling.
Stroll around the old souk where a few heritage houses To organize a trip call the Municipality of Qab Elias – Wadi
can be seen, the 19th Century Roman Orthodox church el Delm on
of St. Elias, and the historic mosque and tomb of the 08 500721
Photos: Myriam Shuman
lebanontraveler.com
More online
2 Souk Qab Elias

No visit to this part of the Bekaa Valley is
complete without leaving with a car-trunk
loaded with all the treasures its land has to
offer. Visit Souk Qab Elias, the biggest fruit
and vegetable market of the region for the
freshest produce, in all their colorful glory,
at wholesale prices.
Open Mon-Sat, 7am-3pm
Qab Elias town center
lebanontraveler.com
More online
24 Focus On lebanontraveler.com
3 Hima Anjar Where To Eat

From Qab Elias follow the road to the discover Lebanon’s rare migratory birds. For a quick snack and local specialties,
West Bekaa and signs to Hima Anjar- Many activities are on offer from cycling Tablyit Massaad (08 806626) is a Zahle
Kfarzabad. This protected area is a and mule back riding to environmental institution, founded back in 1967. For
great ecotourism destination: a mix of activities and harvesting. delicious Armenian food, in a large
wetlands, fertile agricultural fields and atmospheric restaurant eat at Anjar’s
For tours contact SPNL on 01 344814,
a vast forest. Fall is the perfect time Shams (08 622600), where people
[email protected]
of the year to go bird watching and flock from the surrounding areas. Also,
don’t miss Tawlet Ammiq (03 004481,
tawletammiq.com), the Mar Mikhael
restaurant’s Ammiq stop, with local food,
4 Wine tasting cooked by villagers.
In Qab Elias spend an afternoon wine

tasting in a rich landscape filled with Where To Sleep
endless vines. In the area is Chateau Zahle, the gateway to the Bekaa, is the
Clos St Thomas (08 500812), a family perfect base for a weekend exploring
run-winery with a 100-year history and the area. A 5 star hotel in the heart
Chateau Heritage (08 500609), the of The Valley, Chtaura Park Hotel (08
Touma family’s winery, established 540011, chtauraparkhotel.com) offers
in 1888. For lunch stop at Chateau ultimate luxury with 75 rooms and
Kefraya (08 645333/444) or Chateau suites. Akl Hotel (08 820701, akl-hotel.
Ksara (08 813495). com) is located in the historic part of
Zahle’s center. The hotel is over 100
years old and had all the traditional
touches from stone walls to high
ceilings and arched windows. Guests are
greeted upon arrival with that Lebanese
touch of hospitality, with a cup of mint
tea or coffee. Grand Hotel Kadri (08
813290 08 800027, cristalgrandkadri.
com) is a landmark in itself, overlooking
the city’s famous Al Berdawni river.
Built in the 19th Century, the hotel’s
Lebanese architecture combines
oriental style with a modern aesthetic.
5 Taanayel
Domaine de Taanayel is well known and educational farming for kids. Taste
in the region for its outreach and the fresh dairy products of the convent
conservation work. Owned by the or visit Khan el Maksoud (08 544881,
Jesuit Fathers since 1863, Lebanese 71 485807, Damascus Road, Taanayel),
NGO Arcenciel took charge of the near Taanayel Ecolodge, that offers
management of the convent’s locally made seasonal food and
agricultural terrain, which covers 568 accommodation. While at the ecolodge
acres, in 1997. A variety of activities learn how to build an adobe house,
are on offer including cycling, the ancient art of constructing from
horseback riding and hiking around sun dried earth, common in the Middle
the lake, along with a zip-line, archery East and North Africa.
lebanontraveler.com
26 Art & Culture
CITY
Of Art
Mona Hatoum, Impenetrable (s version) – Steel, fishing wire, Courtesy Saradar Collection
Beirut Art Fair has become We have more and more galleries, more that has always been open to the arts, as it
visitors and art collectors coming from finds its international relevance again; “In
an essential part of Beirut’s outside Lebanon,” says Laure d’Hauteville, Europe, the Lebanese art scene fascinates
vibrant arts scene. We speak to BAF’s founder and director. every art specialist.”
its founder and director, Laure This year, the annual art fair will receive Held simultaneously with BAF, Beirut
d’Hauteville on its evolution around 50 international modern and Art Week (BAW) brings the city to life;
contemporary art and design galleries, showcasing art beyond the walls of the
and her essential spots to see
showcasing new trends across a variety art gallery in the streets and boutiques
art in the city of mediums from both emerging and of Downtown district. “Beirut lives under
established artists. With an aim to create the rhythm of contemporary art, thus, the
an exclusive meeting point between the artists are invited to express themselves in
Beirut has a long history as a destination for East and the West, BAF is attracting art the urban landscape of the capital. BAW is a
art that only keeps evolving further. With 48 enthusiasts from all over the world and way to re-discover the famous architecture
art galleries and art spaces, 32 archeological, helping reposition Beirut as the cultural of Beirut, and the boutiques are doing a
historical and thematic art museums and and intellectual capital of the Arab world. great job by accepting to display art in their
two museums set to open soon (sourced from It’s also contributing to the development showcases,” says d’Hauteville. This year BAW
Agenda Culturel, agendaculturel.com) there is of Beirut’s art scene. “BAF has become a features 24 interactive projects by artists
a vibrant art scene that continues to thrive. prominent showcase of design and creativity and designers, showcased around Beirut’s
Beirut Art Fair (BAF), which launched in within the art market,” says d’Hauteville. symbolic landmarks such as Martyr’s Square,
2010, has established itself on the regional “It is a unique source of information on Beirut Souks, Zaitunay Bay, Saifi Village and
and global arts scene with a focus on art from trends, galleries, artists, and institutions, Harbour Square.
the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia, which contribute to the rapid growth of art
Beirut Art Week, various locations around
attracting galleries, visitors and collectors to in the region. Our passion is to nurture an
Beirut. Tue 15-Tue 22;
the capital city. “Every year, Beirut Art Fair inspiring worldwide dialogue through art
brings together galleries that present both and our desire is to stay on the forefront Beirut Art Fair, BIEL, Thu 17-Sun 20.
renowned artists and emerging talents. It is a of the art scene.” She believes that it’s 03 386979, Beirut-art-fair.com,
fascinating destination to discover art. an important time for Lebanon, a country Beirut Art Fair
lebanontraveler.com
More online
Beyond Beirut Art Fair

Laure d’Hauteville’s Heartland
city art guide
exhibition
AÏSHTI FOUNDATION GALERIE MARK HACHEM
Three questions to curator Joanna
Opening in Jel El Dib on 25 October the With 14 years working in the art world
Abou Sleiman Chevalier
Aïshti Foundation is a new private art with galleries in Paris, New York and
museum spread across a vast 40,000 square more recently Beirut, Mark Hachem has
Tell us about
foot of exhibition space. Owner of fashion- over 200 exhibitions to his name. From
the concept
powerhouse Aïshti, Tony Salamé is a serious 18-28 September the galley presents the
behind the
art collector and the new foundation will exhibition “Bridge to Palestine.”
exhibition?
allow his large art collection to be exhibited 01 999313, markhachem.com, Salloum
Heartland is
to the public. aishti.com/foundation Street, Mina El Hosn
an exhibition
that talks about
ART SPACE HAMRA ISSA KAZAH AT LE GRAY the subtle
Art gallery and multidisciplinary cultural As part of Beirut Art Week and in and intimate
platform, Art Space Hamra, has become collaboration with the renowned Samer relationship
an important platform for modern and Kozah Gallery in Damascus, Le Gray Beirut between artists and the Lebanese land.
contemporary Middle Eastern art. From 16 will present the art work of Syrian sculptor Whether they live in Lebanon or not,
September to 18 October, they present the Issa Kazah from 15-22 September. memories and unconscious traces are
iron sculptures of the contemporary Iraqi 01 971111, legray.com left which nourish their work.
artist Ahmed Albahrani in his exhibition How long was the process of
“Biology.” bringing it all together?
01 736516, artspacehamra.com MANSION Randa Armanazi, the director of the
Mansion is a grand, beautiful villa from Beirut Exhibition Center (BEC), agreed
the 1930s, situated in Zoqaq el-Blat. on the project in June 2013, and
DAR EL-NIMER FOR ARTS AND CULTURE Abandoned during the civil war, the here we are, opening on 24 October
Housed in a 1930s building, Dar el-Nimer house has been invested in since 2012, 2015. What is interesting is that
for Arts and Culture is a space for culture with the consent of its owner, for an some of the projects produced for
and exhibitions. This landmark of modernist alternative cultural project conceived the exhibition were different from
architecture in Beirut is dedicated to the and led by architect Ghassan Maasri and what was proposed at the beginning,
preservation, exhibition and promotion of historian and choreographer, Sandra Iche. discussing the theme with the artists
artistic productions from the Maghreb and Mansion welcomes ten resident artists, made them evolve. They decided to
the Mashreq. The center, currently under designers, curators and researchers in its offer something different.
restoration, will open its doors in 2016. The studios every day and hosts a selection
Who will be exhibiting and
collection of its founder, Rami el-Nimer, of screenings and debates, along with
what mediums are used?
is one of the most outstanding of Islamic offering a library and workshops in both
The artists are: Simone Fattal, Lamia
art, bringing together pieces from the 10th carpentry and screen printing.
Joreige, Mona Hatoum, Joana
Century until today. 03 412659, Zokak El Blat
Hadjithomas and Khalil Joreige,
Marwan Rechmaoui, Rayyane Tabet,
Gilbert Hage, Fadia Haddad, Mireille
GALERIE JANINE RUBEIZ
Kassar, Etel Adnan, Annabel Daou,
Galerie Janine Rubeiz is rooted
Nadim Asfar, Ranya Sarakbi, Nabil
in the legacy of Dar El Fan, an
Nahas, Najla El Zein, Hiba Kalache.
art space run from the late ‘60s
All mediums are used from video to
by Janine Rubeiz. Her daughter,
painting, sculpture, installation and
Nadine Begache, opened this
photography.
space in 1993 with a mission to
make contemporary Lebanese Beirut Exhibition Center
art known locally and abroad. 01 962000
From 7-23 October they launch HeartlandLB
the collective exhibition, @Heartland_lb
“Disorder(s) in Beirut.” #HeartlandLB
01 868290, galeriejaninerubeiz. Port of Beirut, Downtown
com, 1st Avenue, Charles de 24 Oct- 29 Nov
Gaulle, Majdalani Bldg, Raouché
lebanontraveler.com
28 Outdoor Action
Life’s little pleasures

With its long coastline and connection
to the sea, Lebanon carries a rich
history when it comes to fishing. From
the hidden coves of Dalieh to the coast
of Batroun, fishing hobbyists and
enthusiasts will find no shortage of
spots to cast their rods
Faint echoes of what sounds like an Oum Kalthoum

song seem to emanate from a cluster of rocks along the
shoreline of Ramlet al-Baida. The source is a cellphone
near the rocks’ edge, where fishing hobbyist Najib
Ashour casts his line into the sea; his sons, nephews, and
friends are by his side, some with their own lines cast,
others fish with cage nets.
“I’ve been fishing for about 30 years,” Ashour reveals.
“I fish all over, from Maameltein to Raouche… it really
depends on the day. I prefer coming here though because
it’s closer to home, which makes things more convenient.
I try to come every weekend to get away from all the
noise of the city, and just play some Oum Kalthoum, or
Abdel Wahab.”
Over the years he has noticed a shift in Beirut’s waters.
“The environment has changed over the years. There’s
a lot more pollution which has affected the health
and quality of the fish.” This hasn’t stopped him from
frequenting his favorite fishing setting, though. “I like
this spot because there isn’t a lot of construction, which
usually causes the fish to migrate.”
Colette Kahil is an avid fishing hobbyist and owner of Beit
al Batroun, a quaint bed and breakfast near the town of
Thoum. “We used to [go fishing] when we were kids. We
would go with our parents to a beach almost every day of
the summer, so we had to find something to pass our time
at the end of the day. And it stayed with me for years from
then,” she says. Kahil was once a regular at Raouche’s
Sporting Club, but since moving to Batroun she now
spends her time fishing along the northern coastline,
picking any spot between Byblos and Batroun.
lebanontraveler.com
29
lebanontraveler.com
More online
30 Outdoor Action lebanontraveler.com
Kahil is not so fussy when it comes to how she chooses

to fish. “ I’m never on a boat, I find any spot on a rock
and [I] can sit there for one to two hours.” The process
is just as important to her as the actual catch. “The
sea is very clean here in Batroun, but we used to catch
more. Sometimes I go and spend a couple of hours and
don’t catch any fish. I find that I smoke less because
I don’t feel like taking a break when I’m fishing. I can
spend two hours without thinking of anything. It’s
all about the pleasure of catching a fish… It’s very
therapeutic for me.”
Fishing maintains its long tradition in Lebanon – a
relaxing pastime that’s an escape from the grind for
many and offers a connection to the sea. There are
plenty of spots to enjoy fishing in the country – dotted
along its vibrant coastline or in its numerous rivers
and lakes and all that’s needed is a rod or net… and of
course patience.
Words and photos by Jimmy Dabbagh
Get the kit

Decathlon
French brand Decathlon have a large range of
fishing equipment at reasonable prices.
04 526101, Dbayeh
Kyriakos Freres
This family-run business has become a staple for
serious fishermen in the area. Opening 40 years
ago they sell everything you could ever want
related to fishing, from rods and ropes to the
perfect foldable chair to settle in for the day.
01 362752, 01 362753/4, kyriakos-lb.com
Graham Street, Ain El Mreisseh
Mike Sport
This sport shop’s Zalka branch has a selection
of fishing equipment including rods and ropes.
01 888855 /2000, mikesport.com
Zalka
Samir Sport
Offering everything available for fishing
enthusiasts, from casting to jigging and
trolling, Samir Sport is an essential stop for the
full fishing kit.
09 850474, 09 852333 Tabarja branch;
04 405406, Dbayeh Branch, samirsport.com
lebanontraveler.com
32 Culinary Heritage
A potted history
The goat dairy product, ambarees, has a long history in Lebanon,
but as its traditional production process fades out it’s at risk of
being lost. The Food Heritage’s Foundation’s Zeinab Jeambey
explores the tradition and how to preserve it
Ambarees, also known as sirdeleh or labnet which time the liquid is drained through ruin the final product,” says shepherd and
al jarra, is a traditional dairy product the jar’s opening. Over the span of the ambarees producer Boutros Bou Maroun,
commonly prepared in the Bekaa Valley and summer, the process of adding milk, coarse from Saghbine. “That is why, traditionally,
the Shouf mountains in Lebanon, where salt, fermenting, and draining is repeated we say that only the producer can check
baladi and shami goats are respectively the until each jar is filled with curd. The curd over sirdele jars, otherwise the product will
main grazing animals that produce it. The is then left in closed jars for four months disintegrate.” Once ambarees is extracted
word sirdeleh refers to the earthenware jar to complete its fermentation process, at from the earthenware jars, it can be either
in which the dairy product is prepared. which stage ambarees develops into a type packed in glass jars, sealed and sold, or
During the goat-milking season in June, the of labneh, yellowish in color and sour in formed into balls, further dried on cheese
process starts by filtering and pouring raw taste. Throughout the fermentation process cloth towels, then placed in glass jars and
goat milk and coarse salt into special clay the product acidity rises, thus eliminating preserved in olive oil.
jars that are porous in nature, with a hole in microorganisms that would otherwise be Ambarees is mainly consumed as labneh,
the base for draining purposes. The mixture harmful. “The process of making ambarees served with olive oil and eaten for
is left to ferment at room temperature until is very delicate and one has to have a breakfast or dinner. In the villages, many
the curd separates from the whey water, at high level of hygiene so that it doesn’t spread it on saj bread and heat the bread
Photo: Roula Koussaifi
lebanontraveler.com
More online
Photos: Food Heritage Foundation
on a wood-fire oven before eating their it is hard to find quality sirdeleh jars and
sandwiches. In villages with the custom
of ambarees production, it is common
the earthenware containers now used are
often poorly glazed and tend to disintegrate
Read more about
as a main ingredient in salads, mixing it due to the rising acidity resulting from the ambarees
with purslane, tomatoes and onions, or ambarees fermentation. For this reason,
reconstituting it with water and boiling many ambarees producers are abandoning tradition
kebbe meat, a variation of kebbe bi laban. In earthenware vessels for plastic barrels, which From ‘Akkar to ‘Amel - Lebanon’s
Niha El Shouf, ambarees is an essential part imply major threats to its food safety and its Slow Food Trail (Rami Zurayk et al.
of their local cuisine. Abla Majed, from the cultural significance. 2008)
village is a long-time producer of the dairy The loss of the traditional processing method Zurayk takes readers on an extensive
product. “It is one of the most important of sirdeleh is threatened because the skill journey in his book through Lebanon’s
foods in our village,” Majed says. “We are of making sirdeleh jars is not being passed villages, from harvest to production,
used to having sirdeleh for breakfast rather down through generations of pottery advocating for the importance of
than labneh.” makers. In an attempt to safeguard this preserving traditional food production
Though highly appreciated by villagers traditional dairy product, the Food Heritage and culinary customs as part of the
and dairy product connoisseurs, quality Foundation and the Chamber of Commerce, country’s cultural heritage.
ambarees is hard to find nowadays due Industry and Agriculture in Zahle and Bekaa Available at antoineonline.com
to the decrease and malpractice in its are collaborating to raise awareness about
production, related to a common fear this product and its traditional processing Was Milk Processed in these Ceramic
among the population of raw goat milk techniques. Under the EU funded project Pots?
products, the loss of traditional knowledge Lactimed; funds will be geared towards jar Organic residue analyses of European
about the importance of the processing production and distribution to ambarees prehistoric cooking vessels (Melanie
method and the cultural appreciation producers and for training on food safety and Salque, 2012)
for this heritage product. Similarly, hygiene during processing. An article that looks at the
malpractices in its production method has archaeological evidence for dairy
led to changes in both sensory and health
properties of ambarees. “Unlike what people
Buy quality production and culinary customs of
the time.
think, goats are the cleanest animals,” says ambarees Available at academia.edu
shepard and ambarees producer Mohammad
Temrez, from Maaser El Shouf. “They pick Amal Ghrayyeb Sharara Chemical characterization and
and choose what to eat and mainly graze 08 670177, 70 553838 bacteriological quality of traditional
on oak leaves and the tips and buds of wild Saghbine, West Bekaa Lebanese goat dairy products
plants.” Convent Ein El Jawze (Elham Hajj Semaan, Lebanese
70 747227 Science Journal, Vol. 12, no. 1, 2011)
Sirdeleh jars face Saghbine, West Bekaa This report on the nutrition and
safety of goat dairy products in
extinction Abla Majed
05 330651
Lebanon is the result of a study
Pottery use for storage, cooking and with 43 goat farmers from different
Niha, Shouf
transferring dairy products in south eastern regions around the country.
Europe, Anatolia and the Levant regions, are Find ambarees on the Darb el Karam food Available at cnrs.edu.lb
as old as seven millennia BC. But nowadays heritage trail (71 731437, food-heritage.org)
lebanontraveler.com
KEEP SHARING WITH THE WORLD
THE LEBANON YOU LOVE
L E BA N ON
A S N O T
S E E N
ON T V
36 The Great Escape
lebanontraveler.com
37
Chabrouh DAM
“I took this photo at sunset in November when I was doing a
group cycle ride with friends in Faraya suburbs. The Chabrouh
Dam is usually filled with fresh snow water throughout the
year. It has the best views throughout the seasons.”
Photo by Haig Melikian, HaigAdventures
lebanontraveler.com
38 Touring Lebanon
The icon
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above
More online
It’s become a landmark for many

people in the Middle East
Photo: 4bArchitects - Said Bitar
“The joke going around at the time was that more accessible. The white statue of Virgin
Boulos is crazy. There’s a guy who wants to Mary, known as Our Lady of Lebanon, which
create an aerial train over the mountain,” stands on the peak of Harissa, remains one
laughs Joe Boulos as he recounts the of Lebanon’s most visited tourist sites. “My
anecdote when his late father, Fouad Boulos father was inspired by postcards he had
proposed the idea of a teleferique to Fouad seen from Switzerland and the Alps,” Joe
Chehab, the Lebanese President of the time. says. “They struck a deal with the German
“The President could not understand what company, PHB, the inventors of the cable
a teleferique was, and in fact there was car concept worldwide. It took a couple of
no-one in the Middle East who could. The years to construct and opened to the public
With a 50-year history, closest description my father could give was in 1965. It’s since become a landmark for
of a train in the air.” many people in the Middle East.”
Jounieh’s teleferique continues Sitting in his office, at the base of the The story of Fouad himself is one connected
its journey up and down the teleferique in Jounieh, which this year to the very idea of Lebanese identity.
Harissa heights – remaining an celebrates its 50th anniversary, Joe Boulos Coming from what Joe says were “extremely
was eight years old when he took one of modest origins,” he dropped out of school
important Lebanese landmark. its first rides. He now stands as chairman and worked to the top by himself. “He’s
LT meets Joe Boulos, whose of the board of directors of the teleferique a totally self-made man, with limited
family was responsible for its company, presiding over what’s become one education. He learned from life experience
of the country’s most cherished icons. His and worked his way up the ladder to become
heritage office walls are lined with framed black and one of the leading figures of Lebanese
white photographs; some of which show the entrepreneurship,” recounts Joe.
teleferique’s construction back in 1964 in For many, there’s nostalgia attached to
an altogether greener Jounieh. the teleferique; its distinct 60s-style
Founded by the Boulos family, along with brightly colored pods associated with
a small group of investors, of which Joe’s the golden age of Lebanon. “It reflects
father, Fouad was chairman; the ambitious the genius of some entrepreneurs who
teleferique project was the result of a go ahead and do things that are beyond
dream to make the Lebanese pilgrimage site the regular scale. To have a small country
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40 Touring Lebanon lebanontraveler.com
EAT
For a high-end lunch eat at renowned
seafood restaurant Chez Sami (09
646064, Chez Sami, Old Seaside
Road, Maameltein), for old school
Lebanese service, seafront seats
and a mezze buffet at reasonable
prices go for Manuella (09 832480,
manuellarestaurant.com, Ghazir) or
grab a pizza at the recently refurbished
Margherita Mare (01 571572, Old Souk).
Photos: Myriam Shuman
like Lebanon leading the whole region there, it’s a witness to Lebanon’s history
DRINK
with a project like this is a feat,” says over the past five decades. It witnessed Stop by the humble Café Toni (09
Joe. The only cable car in the Middle the beautiful golden age of Lebanon, it 914576, Old Souk) in its atmospheric
East at the time, the teleferique, has witnessed the destruction of Beirut and stone-arched interior for fresh fruit
attracted numerous TV and film crews its reconstruction and it is now witnessing juice, popular Mexican restaurant-bar
over the years. Traveling high above the resilience of Lebanon.” La Habana (09 638166, Sarba) for
luscious green forests, with a view over an excellent cocktail menu and the
Though the teleferique has suffered in atmosphere to match, or head to Bar
the bay of Jounieh and turquoise blue recent years with a decline in the number of
seas, it became the setting of many National (03 181763, Facing ATCL) for a
visitors to the country, it has shown its own regular program of live music and DJs.
iconic romance productions from Egypt resilience. They have managed to stabilize
and Lebanon featuring legendary Arab and even increase the number of tourists
film stars. It’s an important part of the over the last few years, which Joe puts SEE
region’s heritage. “Many people still go up down to small improvements they’ve made The Old Souk of Jounieh, made up
the teleferique with nostalgia,” Joe says. – creating a food court with a view over the of traditional stone buildings with
“It has a lot of movies associated with it. bay that offers Lebanese cuisine and fast vaulted ceilings, was renovated fairly
When things are unique and beautiful they food snacks and a landscaped promenade recently and offers an atmospheric
are the perfect setting for love stories.” that offers a scenic walk through the woods. walk through cafes, restaurants,
The teleferique continues to attract Though the teleferique has reached 50 years boutiques and artisan shops.
close to 400,000 visitors per year and of existence, there are no big plans for
though the destination is an important celebration. “We don’t want to make a big
Christian pilgrimage site, Joe notes splash. We believe that we should remain
that around two thirds of its tourists a stable landmark with a relatively modest
are non-Christian; “It’s a place for outlook,” Joe says. “It worked for us for
everybody,” he says. In its 50-year 50 years, and its unlikely that it is going to
history, the teleferique has rarely come change anytime soon.”
to a stop. It continued to run throughout
Lebanon’s long civil war, only stopping 09 936075
briefly during its worst moments. “It has teleferiquelb.com
a lifetime of memories – the teleferique Round trip on the teleferique, adults LL9000,
children LL5000
keeps going up and down, day in, day out,
Haret Sakher, Jounieh
war or no war,” Joe says. “It’s always been
lebanontraveler.com
42 Customs & Traditions
Photos: Sam Tarling
Copper and brass, an industry that existed well before the independent state of
Lebanon, faces challenges in today’s world. Luckily there are some artisans still
working to keep the tradition alive
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In Tripoli, in an old workshop inside the steel, and the scarcity of tourists, has
souk’s cavernous belly, Osman Tartousy, 66, affected business.
is banging a brass bowl into shape. “It’s VISIT COPPER
“These days only rich people can afford pots
better than disco,” he shouts above the
and pans made out of copper or brass,” says WORKSHOPS
clamor. He has been working in the same
Raffi’s father Manuel, in his shop behind Liban TRIPOLI
shop since the age of six. “In those days…”
Post in Bourj Hammoud, “They cost too much
he reminisces, “…you couldn’t talk when Kamel Abdel Ahmad Tartousy
and need to be repaired every few years.”
walking down Nahasin Street, so loud was 03 258656
His family business was forced away from
the pounding of hammer on metal.” Nahasin Street
the lucrative highway location by property
The handmade process for crafting a bowl or disputes. “Now I have about 20 percent of the Amer Tartousy
plate is the same today as it was hundreds customers I used to have,” he says. 06 433999, 03 228217
of years ago. The design is drawn or traced Nahasin Street
Harry Masrojian had no family connection
onto a polished, flat copper disc imported
to copper. Living in Cyprus during the BOURJ HAMMOUD
from India or Africa. The disc is beaten
civil war, he gained an enthusiasm for Harry Masrojian
into shape using a hammer and a vertical
metalwork at an art workshop. Returning 01 267353
iron rod, which sticks up from the floor.
to Lebanon he started his own business in Armenia Street
Once the shape is satisfactory, the pattern
Bourj Hammoud. In his tiny shop he makes
is indented using a variety of thick and Noubar Eskedijian
pictures and frames, often with Christian
thin edged iron pins, which are hammered 01 502718, 03 332345
motifs. His prices range between LL25,000
against the surface with varying degrees Facing Ferrari, Jisr El Wati
and LL250,000, “People say it’s expensive,
of severity. It is then polished to within
so I say ‘Sit down and make it yourself, I
an inch of its life. An experienced worker
can finish a plaque in 30 minutes. The raw
will pay you more.’” Nonetheless business THE COPPER
is still slow for Masrojian and the shops
copper disc costs
that he supplies. JEWELER
around LL10,500
“All we need is Elias Najb Mouawad
and can be sold
customers,”
for upwards of Starting work in handicrafts back in
he says.
LL30,000. Lebanon’s copper and brass 1972, Elias Mouawad who had long
trade is in a lull, but... people Cheaply produced worked in making leather belts was hit
“People come
goods from
to buy special always like shiny things overseas and a
by the country’s financial crisis and
items in Tripoli decided to go into making key chains
global transfer to using brass with beads. Later on he
because there
more durable and concentrated on making handmade
is no industry in
affordable materials means that Lebanon’s jewelry, including earrings, rings and
Beirut,” says Amer Tartousy, a wholesaler
copper and brass trade is in a lull, but there necklaces, specializing in copper.
supplying shops throughout the country.
is some hope, as Amer points out, “People
The Tartousy family has a monopoly here; 01 351343, 03 946890
always like shiny things.”
every person working around Nahasin Gemayel Street, Ras Beirut
Street, in the old souk, seem to bear the Words by Roman St Clair
family name.
In Beirut’s once thriving copper district,
off the highway in Bourj Hammoud, old
men sit outside their shops drinking
coffee and watching the world pass by.
The artisanal copper and brass trade in
Lebanon stretches back over centuries, but
the industry that once supported families
and entire neighborhoods now has a very
different face. “The copper trade is a bad
business,” says Raffi Karaminassian, who
has all but given up on copper. Copper
and brass are no longer widely used: the
affordability of aluminum and stainless
lebanontraveler.com
44 Design In Lebanon
Reviving a
long heritage
major political conferences and rallies
and welcoming guests from all sides of the
political spectrum.
Originally designed 60 years ago by
renowned French decorator Jean de Royere,
in 2013 the hotel closed for a renovation
project led by Galal Mahmoud, the president
and partner of GM architects. Mahmoud
is well versed in handling the design and
renovation of prestigious hotels, having
worked on numerous projects throughout
the world for the last 20 years, although
this project was perhaps his most personal
Beirut institution Le Bristol yet. Having grown up in the neighborhood
Hotel reopens after a two-year- around Le Bristol, Mahmoud’s own memories
are intertwined with the hotel’s history.
long facelift. Galal Mahmoud, He used to join his father to work in the
the president and partner of GM late ‘60s with his offices directly next to Le
Architects behind the renovation Bristol. Mahmoud even stayed at the hotel
at the beginning of the civil war.
project, talks to LT about
In an interview with LT, Mahmoud shares his
bringing contemporary elements
insights into transforming this Lebanese
alongside its 65-year heritage institution, while maintaining its heritage.
What was your brief before starting

Located in Verdun in the heart of the city, and what needed to be done?
Le Bristol Hotel’s heritage stretches a long It took a lot of discussion and reflection
way back. Opened in 1951 by the Doumet to reach the brief stage, because it is such
family, the hotel has long been an important a historical and cultural institution for
landmark of the city, synonymous with the Beirut. Also, for me personally, it was more
golden days of Beirut. Drawn to its classical complicated as I was so close to the project.
elegance, Le Bristol hosted Lebanon’s high The hotel is not only a key part of Beirut’s
society and the gentry of the Arab world; history but also of mine. I had to think
with guests that included prominent foreign about if I could take on something so close
dignitaries and stars such as Prince Albert of to me. I have been visiting the hotel since
Monaco, Princess Souraya of Iran, legendary my childhood and remember always being
jazz trumpeter and composer Dizzie Gillespie impressed by its grandeur and elegance.
and the iconic poet Nizar Kabbani. On top Knowing how to capture this spirit took a
of that, the hotel’s history is connected lot of reflection and discussion. In addition,
with the politics of the country; hosting
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the closer we looked beyond the surface, How much of the original design has
the more we realized just how big a project it remained intact?
would be. We obviously tried to keep as many original
features as possible; one example being
5 minutes WITH...
How did you address those needs? the Damascene woodwork, which dates gm of le bristol,
We worked very closely with the team at
the hotel making sure we’d understood
back to the 19th Century. Emile Tarazi Nazira al atrache
installed it during the time of the hotel’s
what they were looking for, also proposing construction in 1955. The chairs and sofas
our creative perspective and then making are original but have been re-upholstered
sure these two viewpoints crossed over. We in warm colors in homage to the romantic
also spent a lot of time looking through orientalism of that time. It is really a mix;
archives of the hotel in its glory days and half original, half contemporary.
picked out key moments in its history. We
tried to identify what had made the hotel so What is it about the hotel that’s
legendary and how we could enhance this. undeniably Galal?
Two major guiding forces of GM Architect’s
What was the underlying theme? practice are restfulness and wellbeing. We
The lobby sets the tone for the rest of the used the warm colors and design to create
hotel representing a range of styles from a soothing environment. Also, the mix of Why did you decide to renovate?
the most important decades for the hotel, different cultural influences is always evident It is one of the oldest hotels built
but also with classic and timeless overtones. in [our] designs; partly because the firm is in Lebanon; as an old icon of that
For example we used a solid dark walnut based in Lebanon, a country that has been a kind of caliber, we couldn’t compete
desk [at] the reception together with melting pot of different cultures throughout with newly built hotels. Le Bristol is
old paintings from the hotel’s collection. its history. I take inspiration from all over [followed] by Lebanese who live abroad
However contemporary lines link the space the world. However, despite this, I like each – when it is full they feel secure. We
to today’s Beirut. The overall theme is project to be immersed in the local culture, wanted to exceed guest needs, to offer
that the hotel’s history has come come using materials sourced from the area and the best services and technology.
to a meeting point with the present day. supporting the work of designers and artists
For the rooms we have picked out three from the region. This was true of Le Bristol How do the renovations make Le
themes, which encapsulate what the hotel project as we worked with some exciting Bristol a new destination?
represents, they are ‘Oriental’, ‘1960s’ and artists and designers such as Nada Debs. It’s been beautifully designed. We offer
‘Modern Classic.’ something for all tastes: from modern
to Oriental and ‘60s style. Technology-
wise it’s a work of art – we have new
Wi-Fi everywhere and digital operating
systems, so service is a lot quicker.
Food wise, what is on offer?

Le Bristol was always known as a
culinary destination. We offer an
international and Lebanese menu, with
chefs who have been with the hotel
almost 35 years. Our restaurant Les
Gourmandises was so popular that we
had to open a branch in Achrafieh and
we are continuing to use the majestic
Villa Linda Sursock as a venue for
weddings for our catering department.
01 351400, lebristol-hotel.com
Le Bristol Hotel Beirut
Le Bristol Hotel
lebristolhotel
Curie Street, Verdun
Rooms start from $165
lebanontraveler.com
46 Indoors
Photo: Jacques Aboukhaled
The Sursock Museum's rebirth

The Sursock Museum revives its vibrant past, reopening after a
big budget restoration project that’s set to position it as one of
the most serious art institutions in Lebanon
From its regal white façade and elegant doors as a modern art and contemporary renovation and expansion project that cost
Arabesque windows, to its two staircases art museum and became an important between USD12-14 million has modernized
curving up to a grand entrance, everything platform for the work of local and the museum, adding to its exhibition space
about the Sursock Museum reflects the international artists. Currently, the and technical facilities. Reawakening the
grand past of the area; a street still lined mutawalli of the museum is Dr. Bilal Hamad museum’s glory days before the civil war,
with mansions that once belonged to the and the chair of the museum’s committee is the renovation looks set to reassert the
Beirut gentry. When Nicolas Sursock, an Dr. Tarek Mitri. Sursock Museum’s presence on Beirut’s
aristocrat and art lover, died in 1952, arts scene.
Now hidden behind that grand façade – a
his house was transformed into an art
typical example of 19th Century Levantine Under architects Michel Wilmotte and
museum, in accordance with his will. The
architecture, with Venetian and Ottoman Jacques Abou Khaled, the building has
museum is part of a trust, handed over
influences, built in 1912 – is an impressive been expanded to five times its former
to the mutawalli, the president of the
modern interior, with an additional four size, with an additional four floors added,
Municipal Council of Beirut, regardless
floors added, two of which are accessible to though below ground level, to preserve
of which political regime is in power. In
the public. The ambitious seven-year-long the architectural heritage of the existing
1961 Sursock’s former home opened its
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It’s really interesting to think about space. “I think the challenge was to
add the contemporary building while
this history and try to build on it
preserving the old architecture, and
making sure the transition between both is
smooth,” says Zeina Arida, the museum’s
director. “I find the result really successful.
The architect succeeded in not doing that
kind of rupture and, at the same time the
added spaces are really contemporary.”
In the hall outside the museum’s lowest
-2 level, a painting of Nicolas Sursock
in a flamboyant purple suit by Dutch
painter Kees van Dongen, watches over
the entrance to a vast stark white interior,
an 800 square meter space with moveable
walls, dedicated to hosting special
exhibitions. Also added is a research
library, a large state-of-the-art 164-
Museum Director Zeina Arida, Photo: Nabû Productions seat auditorium to host talks, lectures,
symposiums, panel discussions, as well
as film screenings and performances,
additional exhibition spaces on the ground
floor, two storage spaces, technical spaces
and a restoration workshop, a shop and
restaurant housed in a glass extension on
the esplanade.
The renovations have expanded the
museum’s potential; modernizing its
technical facilities and allowing the
permanent collection to be exhibited,
while at the same time allowing the space
for temporary exhibitions and a public
program to help in appealing to new
audiences. “It’s really well equipped. You
Photo: Nabû Productions
have all the facilities needed to build a
strong, complex program,” Arida says.
As with the architectural design of the
building, the museum’s curatorial vision
is to stay true to the core of its collection
and expand upon it, along with making art
accessible, educational and fun to as wide
an audience as possible. “This institution is
a very important one that started in 1961,
when the museum opened. In the first 10-
15 years the museum had a very important
impact on artistic life and the practices
of artists themselves,” Arida says. With
the planning of the Sursock’s renovation,
also came a reflection on the role of a
museum in the 21st Century, Arida notes.
“It’s really interesting to be able to think
about this history and try to build on it; to
really try to reflect on the past, whether
the past of the museum or of our cultural
and artistic landscape in Lebanon and the
Photo: Nabû Productions
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48 Indoors lebanontraveler.com
region, but also to fill the gaps,” she says. the city’s evolution from Ottoman town Sursock Museum opens from 8 October
“It’s very challenging but for me it’s much to the capital of a state in paintings, Open daily 10am-6pm, except Tue;
more interesting than trying to create etchings, drawings and photographs. Thu 12-9pm
something from scratch.” Free entrance (pay what you want)
The City in the City
01 200512
“It is really the role of a museum to (8 Oct-11 Jan, Twin Galleries)
Sursock.museum
develop educational tools and ways of Nora Razian, head of programs, curates the
Sursock Museum
making exhibitions more accessible. opening collective exhibition, showcasing
@SursockMuseum
You have to create a rupture with what the work of artists, designers and
SursockMuseum
people might have as a pre-judgment researchers exploring contemporary Beirut
for contemporary art, for example.” The through video work, photographs, maps
Sursock Museum’s active public program,
which includes screenings, workshops,
and etchings. At the sursock
Collection Display
artist talks, walks across the city, guided
(Collection Galleries)
Joanna’s Table
tours with curators, family program and
On the two upper floors, the museum’s With a tree-lined view onto the
panel discussions should help them to
permanent collection displays modern beautiful square in front of the
reach new audiences and help it become
Lebanese art from the late 1800s to the Sursock Museum seen from its glass
an important institution that will boost
early 2000s. exterior, its café-restaurant Joanna’s
the cultural fabric of Beirut. “It’s a very
Table will offer an eclectic range of
exciting moment,” adds Arida. Picturing Identity
Mediterranean dishes made from
(8 Oct-11 Jan, Fouad Debbas Collection Gallery)
fresh seasonal ingredients. The menu
UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS A selection of 19th Century Cartes de
takes its influence from Lebanon,
A glance of Beirut: 160 years of images Visite and studio photographs, tracing the
Italy and Iran and offers traditional
(8 Oct-11 Jan, Special Exhibitions Hall) construction of local class typologies.
mezze with a twist. Committed to
The opening exhibition, curated by Sylvia Opening Symposium – The Museum As... supporting local farmers with dishes
Agémian, the museum’s main curator (3 Oct, Auditorium) made from local produce sourced
for over 40 years, will reflect upon the A symposium will gather museum directors, directly from the farms, Joanna’s
different representations of Beirut over a architects, artists, and curators to discuss Table looks set to become a lunchtime
160 year period, from 1800-1960, tracing the role of a museum today. destination itself.
Open daily, 10am-1pm, except Tue
The Bookshop
After a trip to the museum, make
sure to visit their shop which will sell
a range of art books, critical texts
and monographs related to art and
museum studies. There will also be
unique custom-made designer items
and a range of souvenirs relating to
the museum’s permanent collection
and exhibitions.
Open daily, 11am-7pm, except Tue;
Thu 1-10pm
Etel Adnan, Le Mont Tamalpaïs, 1985, Oil on canvas,

Sursock Museum collection ,Courtesy of the Sursock Museum
lebanontraveler.com
50 Region through an Artist’s Eyes
the shouf
sanctuary
Musician and producer Zeid Hamdan opens the grand rusted gates
to his family home located in Bater, the last village in the Shouf
region. Located 10km before the South’s Jezzine, the sleepy
Druze village, surrounded by olive groves and fruit trees, has deep
agricultural roots.
Hamdan is well known within the regional alternative music
scene; he formed cult indie electro-pop band Soap Kills in the
late ‘90s with Yasmine Hamdan and started a new wave of Arabic
indie music. Active over two decades, Hamdan has since founded
numerous innovative musical projects from The New Government
to Zeid & the Wings and as producer has helped emerging artists
form their sound. One article in CNN named him one of eight
leading lights in Lebanese culture.
LT meets prolific underground With family roots in Yemen, Iraq and Aleppo, Hamdan’s family
music producer Zeid Hamdan home in Bater was built around 370 years ago. A typically
Lebanese stone house with arched dome ceilings and Arabesque
in his family village of Bater windows, it’s a tranquil escape, surrounded by a large garden full
– and discovers the serene of ancient fruit-baring trees. At the entrance of the house is a
surroundings that have pond with a fountain of fresh spring water; once the center of the
village and its water source. After a 1956 earthquake destroyed all
provided the space for him to the buildings that surrounded it, Hamdan’s grandfather bought
create music the land to extend the family home and created a garden.
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Niha Fortress
Photos: Roland Ragi
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52 Region through an Artist’s Eyes lebanontraveler.com
Hamdan’s great grandfather, and his father I have the impression of intruding upon a And Hamdan has certainly done that; a second
before him were religious leaders within moment of time.” part of the EP is due out soon in English and a
the Druze community. His grandfather was new EP with Egyptian singer Maii Waleed and
And though the house today spends much
the first in the family to move to the city of an album with Maryam Saleh, also from Egypt,
of its time in hibernation, its silence has
Beirut where he worked as the head judge are due out on Eka on the 17 September.
provided the space for Hamdan to write
for criminal affairs, though he maintained
music over the years. Soap Kills first 2001 EP zeidhamdan.com
a connection to the area. “The villagers
was named “Bater” after the village. “A lot
know my grandfather very well. He was very
of songs were written here,” Hamdan says.
generous and was respected and loved. He
donated land so the community could build
“When you’re a teenager in your twenties you Where To Sleep
like the drama. I would lock myself up in this
a kind of cultural center,” Hamdan says, Make the Shouf your base for the
home and talk to the ghosts.” It’s a practice
pointing to a large structure among the trees. weekend and explore the area. Stay
he’s continued with the artists he works
overnight at Bouyouti (03 310200,
Hamdan still remembers when the house with today. “It’s so big, everyone can isolate
bouyouti.com) for the refined
was surrounded by cornfields; but it was themselves and empty their head. It’s very
guesthouse or Deir Al Oumara
only upon returning from Europe after the rare to find a place in Lebanon where you
(05 511557/8, deiraloumara.com) a
war that his family rediscovered the house. don’t hear the sound of the motor.”
hotel in a beautiful heritage building
“I was a teenager and I was starting music,
In the summer, though, the house comes to in Deir el Qamar.
and this became the house where I explored
life again; a playground for the kids of his
with musicians, the house where I hid,”
brothers and sisters when they return from
Hamdan says. “It’s my hidden little paradise
abroad and Hamdan’s own two year-old son. Where To Eat
until today; a secret place where I bring my
“In the summer my parents do big parties Bater’s Garden (78 940555,
really close friends. It’s not an open house
here, picnics during the day. Everywhere Bater.Garden) is one of the few
that sees a lot of life. Every time I come here,
becomes filled with tables and a lot of food. restaurants in the small village of
It’s the spirit of before.” Bater, serving up fresh and seasonal
Close by to Bater is Niha Fortress, an ancient local food. The nearby Chafik Merchad
fort carved into the rock, that dates back Guesthouse – Niha (05 330755) can
Every time I come here, I have prepare delicious local cuisine made by
to at least 975 AD, the hiding place of kings
the impression of intruding such as Emir Fakhr Al Din II who reportedly local villagers, but call ahead.
upon a moment of time fled there from the Ottomans and took
refuge for a year before he was eventually What To See
found and killed. “It is a place you can go
that is off the tracks of the tourists; every It’s only a short drive to Niha, the
time I went there I was alone,” Hamdan says. birthplace of legendary Lebanese
“I would always go on my own and feel the singer Wadih el Safi and home to a
same vibe as this house.” site thought to be the tomb of the
prophet Job. The Fortress (Entrance
Another site that Hamdan has always LL 7,000) offers breathtaking views
returned to are some old Roman ruins in the and the small Shouf Biosphere Reserve
valley that his house looks down upon. “They info center sells local produce such as
are completely unnoticed and unmarked; I olive oil, jam and pickles. The village
always ask the locals and they say it was an itself is worth an exploration with
old temple of Cleopatra for the summer. I love its traditional houses, two ancient
walking down there; It’s a part of Lebanon churches and old water mill.
that is somehow untouched. It’s green, it’s
clean, the architecture is still preserved.”
Hamdan has just released the EP “Balekeh,”
with songs that range from subjects such as
indifference – written at the beginning of the
Syrian war – to Lebanese politics and mid-life
crisis. “You are in a certain kind of comfort,
but you are lazy for your dreams, you lose
the breath for your dreams, and feel a kind
of panic and depression. There is a mantra
inside the chorus – don’t let your dreams be
kidnapped, keep the breath, keep the energy.”
lebanontraveler.com
WHAT’S
COOKING 12 - 14 NOV 2015 | BIEL
BEIRUT?
54 In Focus Beirut
Basta:
An old story
As one of Beirut’s biggest antique districts, Basta offers a world of stories – from its
old crumbling heritage buildings to the narratives of its shop owners. This bustling
neighborhood seems stuck in another time, and yet remains full of life
Basta, located in Bachoura, is one of Beirut’s vans regularly pass by to drop off more
most historic neighborhoods. Located in pieces, found in the old homes of Beirut.
the heart of Beirut, just a stone’s throw “This job is in my blood,” says its owner
from Downtown, the district once housed Nasser Ammar from an organized wooden
cultural centers and public libraries. Old desk amongst the chaos. He inherited the
heritage homes still stand as they once did; trade from his family, first working with
mostly un-renovated and part crumbling, but his uncle and grandfather 20 years ago,
nonetheless charming. returning to the family tradition in Basta
after years in Australia. “It’s just because
Between a dominating road bridge that
I love this job that I stay in it. Otherwise I
marks one end of the area and an ancient
would be buying my ticket and running away.
cemetery, Basta is characterized by antique
It’s very hard to live here, but I want my kids
shops with a long history; many shop owners
to grow up here. We have to survive after
now sit in the shops once belonging to
all,” he says. His store is full to the brim; ‘50s
their fathers or grandfathers before them.
armchairs with delicate pencil legs and sofas
The shops offer a gateway into other eras,
sit on a shelf above, lamps and chandeliers
where the history and memories of Lebanon
hang from the ceiling, there are half-a-
is told through its objects. Everything is
century old slot and pinball machines and
sold from ancient carpets from Iran, to
a collection of old black and white photos
intricate chandeliers, mother-of-pearl inlay
showing nameless Beiruti families.
furniture, retro ‘50s lamps and little pieces
of Lebanese heritage such as black and At the top of the street, under the bridge is
white photographs of former politicians or the small unassuming shop Ajaj. A simple
the old signs of shops that once punctuated half-darkened room is full of beautiful old
the city. Prices vary from a few dollars to rugs, mostly from Iran. Moussa Ajaj works
thousands. Added into the mix are shops alongside his father in the family business.
selling narguileh pipes, vintage second hand “I love my job. I was only four-years-old
clothes and even old-look new items. It’s when my father opened the shop, so it’s my
easy to spend an afternoon getting lost in life,” he says. With a history that goes back
the treasures to be found in Basta’s dusty to 1975, and their home above the shop, the
corners and unraveling the owner’s colorful family is every bit a part of the neighborhood
stories. – and often gather outside drinking coffee.
Old Story, close to the entrance of Basta, is Hassan Hijazi has one of the oldest shops in
hard to miss – its tables and chairs tumble Basta. Opening 60 years ago, he’s certainly
Old Story out the front of its two adjacent shops, as an expert when it comes to antiques. He
lebanontraveler.com
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This job is in my blood
Ink and Paper
Livres Anciens Hassan Hijazi & Sons Est.
Nasser Ammar, owner of Old Story Hassan Hijazi & Sons Est.
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56 In Focus Beirut lebanontraveler.com
sits behind his grand wooden desk with old the years he’s brought antiques from all over
Ottoman handguns lining the wall on his left, the world; from France, Syria and London. “I
and colorful glass pieces behind him. “It’s don’t have something specific in mind. I like
Where to shop
all old, nothing new,” he says proudly. In the
front of his shop, old carpets are piled on top
to see what I’m buying, even if I have to go to
Damascus to see it. If I like it, I’ll take it,” he
Old Story
of each other, each pattern more intricate says matter-of-factly. Here you can find everything from old
than the next; elegant chandeliers hang from vinyl records of Egyptian President
It’s a tight neighborhood in Basta, and one Abdel Nasser’s speeches and ‘80s pop to
the ceiling. Arriving to Beirut from the south
that is full of character. “I know everybody an oversized model of a ferry (no joke!)
in 1948, he came to the area and started an
here. Ammar says. It’s a nice community.” Best for: ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s furniture
antique shop. “I started with three other
Where other commercial neighborhoods – from slender-legged tables to
guys next to me. We started this antique
have come and gone through difficult times, colorful pod armchairs.
souk but all of them have died except me,” he
here the antique shops continue to thrive, 71 223855, Madina Center, Bachoura
says. “There is always work even if it’s slow.
maintaining an almost century-old heritage.
Even during war business was good.” Over
Azzim
Ali Azzim is not a purest when it
comes to age. His dusty store is full of
everything from 10-50 years old.
Best for: Random items - from his
unusual doll collection to glass
trinkets and clocks.
01 660540
Livres Anciens
Specializing in antique books, Livres
Anciens is a library to the past. Add to
that a collection of old ouds hanging
from the ceiling and somber-looking
paintings and you’re good to go.
Adjacent is the shop Ink and Paper,
which has a huge selection of vinyl
records from old Oriental classics to
reggae and soul.
Best for: Ancient Arabic books
covering every topic.
76 871995, Bachoura
Ajaj
The shop of father and son, Abou
Akram and Moussa Ajaj, if you’re
looking for a special rug or tapestry
wall hanging, Ajaj is the place to go.
Best for: Persian rugs.
70 868203, Istiklal Street
Hassan Hijazi & Sons

Pass by here for its heritage alone;
as one of the oldest shops in the
neighborhood. It also houses one
of the most precise and organized
collections covering carpets, glass
items and furniture.
Best for: Mother-of-pearl inlay
furniture.
Old Story
01 650943, Kharsa Street
lebanontraveler.com
57
Your hands-on
guide to Lebanon
Photo by Haig Melikian
lebanontraveler.com
58
Getaways
Founder of NEOS Tourism consultancy and author of Eco Lebanon:
Nature and rural tourism, Nour Farra-Haddad gives her eco-friendly
tourism tips for getaways around Lebanon
1. Family camp near Mar Moussa

Take the road to Mar Moussa and continue towards
Zaraaoun, following signs towards Sharewood Camp
(03 294298, sharewoodcamp.com) or Swings (03 796648,
swingscamp.com) to enjoy eco-activities for all ages.
Both eco-projects offer a wide variety of activities such as
climbing and archery. Spend a full day in the area or stay
for a wild weekend in the woods.
Sleep Bring your own tent, or rent without the hassle at
either Sharewood Camp, for karaoke around the bonfire
(LL30,000 including breakfast), or Swings, where you can
camp below the pines (LL24,000-40,000 per person).
Eat Bring your own food and enjoy the nature of Swings,
which offers fully equipped picnic sites with wooden
picnic tables, grills and charcoal (LL60,000 for 8 people)
or stop by the Sharewood Restaurant for traditional food.
See Pause on the way to visit the Convent of St Moses the
Ethiopian, Duwwar, and admire an old silk factory. The
monastery, built around 1607, is located on a hill covered
with pinewoods, vines and gardens.
2. A weekend for two in Jurd El Batroun

At the level of Madfoun Bridge head east towards the
mountains, and pass from village to village to discover
old churches, miraculous sanctuaries, wineries and art.
Sleep Beit El Batroun (03 270049, beitelbatroun.com)
offers a warm welcome. This very cozy hidden home is
just five minutes from Batroun highway. Higher over the
hills is Abdelli Terraces (76 333569, abdelliterraces.com),
a rustic guesthouse with stunning views.
Eat Enjoy the delicious weekend buffets of Abdelli
Terraces, with a view over green valleys, or stop by
Nicolas Audi á La Maison d’IXSIR Restaurant (71 631613,
ixsir.com.lb) for exceptional food and wine.
See Stop by the open-air art park of Rachana, the famous
village of the Basbous sculptor family and the crusader
fortress of Smar Jbeil. There are also the tranquil
sanctuaries of Hardini and Rafka. Take local guide Jeanne
Claude (71 789635) for an insider’s tour of the area.
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3. Back to Phoenician roots in Tyre

Head south towards Tyre, the family home and the city, or stay in the
Phoenician city that legend says was newly-opened boutique B&B, Dar Alma
the birthplace of Europa and Elissa (07 740082).
(Dido). This southern city was once
Eat Enjoy fresh fish in front of the sea
an island, which resisted against the
at any of the port’s restaurants. For
long siege of Alexander The Great for
high-end book at Le Phenicien
months, until he eventually invaded
(07 740564), for a more humble
and connected it to the main land.
setting, but with delicious fresh
Purple dye was also invented in this
seafood at a reasonable price and a
important port city, which ruled the
characteristic owner, settle in at Chez
seas and founded prosperous colonies
Tony (70 108641).
such as Cadiz and Carthage across the
Mediterranean Sea. Today it’s listed as See Archeological remains can be
a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is found everywhere in the city. Don’t
predominantly a fishing town. miss the hippodrome and necropolis
site or the walk towards the sea, down
Sleep For the perfect family escape
the majestic Roman alley, passing by
spend the night at the renowned
the agora (meeting square) and Roman
hotel, Rest House (07 740677, 07
baths. A walk through the old streets
742000, resthouse-tyr.com.lb). For an
of the city also offers many discoveries,
overnight stop with charm, stay by the
with old khans, churches and mosques.
sea at Al Fanar (07 741111,03 665016,
End your tour at the old port and visit
alfanarresort.com) and speak to the
the Phoenician ship maker.
owners about the history of their
4. Nature escape in Lehfed

Lehfed, meaning “the flat land” in Aramaic, is elevated
950m above sea level and is limited by the villages Jaj and
Mayfouk from the north, Kharbe and Hakel from the west
and Mechmech from the south. It enjoys a nice climate
and rich agricultural lands with a beautiful landscape.
Sleep Make the most of the cooler Fall temperatures
and camp at Lehfed Country Club (03 324202,
LehfedCountryClub) with a camp fire and plenty
of outdoors activities or continue further into the
mountains and stop at the newly opened guesthouse
Beit Douma (06 520702) to experience Lebanese
village life with all the modern comforts.
Eat Plan a picnic or snack at Lehfed Country Club or stop
by for a full Lebanese spread in the heart of nature at
nearby village Chabtine at restaurant Diwan el Hassoun
(03 420366, Diwanelhassoun, Daher el Katleb).
See Visit the birthplace of Estephan Nehme, a monk of
the Lebanese Maronite Order (estephannehme.org), a
village full of beautiful old houses, chapels and a lake and
enjoy a hike towards Mar Saba convent.
lebanontraveler.com
60
Best Beds
The DIYAFA Association profiles three new guesthouses located in different
regions around Lebanon, each offering a genuine rural experience
Hussam El Eid Guesthouse Ain Zhalta, Shouf Mtein Guesthouse (Qontar Family) Mtein
Located in Ain Zhalta, in the Shouf district, this welcoming Mtein Guesthouse is not only a touristic destination, but, as it
guesthouse is ideally placed for ambles around the Cedar Nature is housed in a palace, it is also a national heritage treasure. The
Reserve. Owner Hussam El Eid loves sharing his village home and building dates back to 1905, when Prince Qabalan Abillama sold
garden with his guests, and helping them to discover the riches it to Sheikh Abdullah Ali Qontar, whose descendants still own
of the village and its narrow streets. The warm, comfortable and it today. The palace is the largest amongst all palaces of Mtein
elegant bedrooms are authentic, yet with a touch of modernity. village and is spread across three floors. It comprises of many
The fireplace, living room and yellow stoned walls create the rooms and cellars along with an internal courtyard and makes for a
perfect ambiance for cosy gatherings. regal-like weekend stay.
03 217299 04 295043, 03 236062
Beit el Kroum Zahle

The nine individually styled rooms of Beit el
Kroum are tastefully decorated in art deco
style, each with their own character. Here, it’s
the little details that count: beautiful antique
DIYAFA Association
furniture, organic Egyptian cotton sheets, The DIYAFA Association, initiated by
silk curtains, Persian carpets, a cozy fireplace American Near East Refugee Aid (ANERA),
and art exhibited in the centralized living arranges training and workshops for the
room. Guests also have access to the Beit el owners and staff of guesthouses as part
Kroum library, a delight in itself, featuring of the Lebanon Industry Value Chain
a rich collection of books. The food supplies Development (LIVCD) Project, implemented
are from local farms, and herbs and spices are by DAI and funded by USAID.
grown in the gardens. A traditional Lebanese 01382591, website soon to be launched.
breakfast is served every morning.
08 809306, 71 809306
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On the table
Nabil Shuman, a consultant from a long family of chicken farmers,
and passionate foodie, shares his restaurant tips around the
country; from family restaurants in his hometown of Beit Mery, to
home cooking in West Bekaa and food by the fire in Faqra
Tiger Ain el Khasfe Noha’s Table d’Hote

“The restaurant known as ‘Tiger’ was “Located in the West Bekaa, Noha Abi
founded by Nemr Youssef Mokbel Rached serves traditional food from her
and started life as a café in 1930, region using ingredients from the farms
transforming into a restaurant in 1955. of family and friends. Each dish she serves
Tiger is a landmark in the Deir El Kalaa has a story – lunch at Noha’s is like a
district of Beit Mery, with a unique terrace trip back in time, a communion with the
offering the most amazing views of the Bekaa Valley, its land and tradition. She
capital. Drinks and dinner at sunset offers serves lunch or dinner in her beautiful
an unmatchable experience. A family heritage home, with specialties such as
restaurant, though as much a place for potato kebbeh, labneh bi awarma (meat
couples or friends to dine, its specialties preserved in fat and salt) and mansoufe,
include the raheb salad made with a dish local to Ain el Zebde, made from
aubergines, the labneh with vegetables pumpkin and bulgar dough, boiled and
and spicy batata harra.” fried with onion and sour grape juice.”
04 870564 08 670572
Deir El Kalaa, Beit Mery, Metn Noha’s Table d’Hote
Ain el Zebde, West Bekaa
Ain El Khasfeh Massaya

“Located next to the spring of Beit “Founded in 2014, by the Ghosn family, the
Mery, overlooking the Lamartine Valley, owners of Massaya Winery, and built from
Ain El Khasfeh is a typically Lebanese, the stone of the region, Massaya Faqra is
family-run restaurant offering delicious a fireplace restaurant where dinner can
food. Ask the owner what is growing in be enjoyed in their cozy lounge under a
Massaya
the garden and the staff will bring the vaulted ceiling. The restaurant is unique
season’s freshest fruits and vegetables, with dinner cooked on the wooden fire in
plucked straight from the vine or ground. front of guests – giving the food a special
Their fattoush is not to be missed, along smoky taste. Don’t miss the bruschetta on
with their grilled meat and small birds.” delicious bread, the traditional frikeh dish
and the perfectly tender lamb gigot; and
04 870912
last but not least of course, the wine from
Al Charki, Mar Sassine, Beit Mery
their cellar.”
03 735795, massaya.com
60m before President Lahoud roundabout
Faqra-Kfardebian
lebanontraveler.com
62
Urban trail Achrafieh

The chic quarter of Achrafieh is built on a hill and once housed grand villas,
the home to Lebanon’s high society. Though today, most of the mansions are
gone, the spirit of the past remains. Lebanese guide company Zawarib chooses
the prime places to experience Achrafieh at its best
Start your stroll at the bottom of Monot place to surprise your senses. Tucked away concerts of the Lebanese Philharmonic
Street, a paved road lined with deliciously- on Huvelin Street, this restaurant yields a Orchestra, every Friday at Saint Joseph
smelling Seville orange trees. You will come unique menu for each new day. Church starting 2 October (Check lpo.gov.lb
across a fun restaurant by the name of for further info).
Vintage hair salons and barber shops can
Jars & Co. (1. 01 218599, jarsandco.com)
be found at nearly every corner in the If you are interested in learning more about
where dishes are not plates but glass jars
neighborhood so be sure to explore the Lebanese wine, take a walk down Achrafieh
instead. Further up is Artist (2. 76 001176,
art deco interiors and treat yourself to Street to Chateau Musar (3. 01 328211,
artistbeirut.com, Artist.Beirut), a good
a vintage hair-do! Do not miss the free chateaumusar.com) one of Lebanon’s
lebanontraveler.com
63
largest wine exports where you can Luckily, Achrafieh equally caters to serene (13. 01 202390) date as far back as the
purchase some marvelous white, red and souls as well. Unwind with the chirpy birds late ‘70s, with décor to match, and still
rosé bottles as well as book wine tasting at Mar Nicolas Public Garden before entering attract the same old-school crowd. Of the
tours to their Chateau in Ghazir. Walk down one of Achrafieh’s more tranquil streets, newly opened spots, Abou Shawarma
the famous Abdel Wahab Al Inglizi Street Gabriel Khabbaz. Adorned with foliage, (14. 01 333670, aboushawarma.com)
and explore a variety of outlets including a relish Cup’n Cake’s (9. 01 329416) rainbow makes a truly succulent sandwich, so grab
shop selling local and international wines of homemade baked yummies before one - or two - sandwiches before walking
and spirits called Le Comptoir visiting Chez Jean Claude (10. 01 201190), down Sioufi Street. Along the way, a
(4. 01 322841, e-lecomptoir.com) and the an exquisite French restaurant where the charming villa will catch your eye, housing
adjacent Over the Counter (5. 01 322786, owner is the chef and seating is within Cappuccino Grand Café (15. 01 217460),
over-thecounter.com), a stylish home beautiful cascading greenery. a delightful coffee house. Further down,
accessories store that sources furniture and discover L’Appartement (16. 03 760044),
Complete your excursion on the smaller,
lighting from some of the best designers, an art house, bistro and living space where
prettier streets, such as Zahrat Al Ihsan,
local and worldwide. Near the end of the you can expect to be greeted with plenty
Aabrine and Mariam Geahchan Street, to
street, savor a delicious burger at BRGR Co of sunshine. Every Wednesday, be prepared
discover one of Beirut’s favorite organic
(6. 01 333511) where the heritage house to grab some art tools for L’Appartement’s
shops, A New Earth (11. 01 219920,
location is as spectacular as the food. open and inventive “Creative Wednesday.”
anewearth.net, A New Earth). Once you
Specialty shops are all the rage in Achrafieh reach the dynamic Sassine Square, pop by
and a new one on the block is The Malt Gallery renowned patisserie and caterer, Noura For more on Beirut’s hidden treasures, grab
(7. 01 211999, eamlb.com/themaltgallery), (12. 01 215806) and sample a variety of Zawarib’s “Welcome to Beirut” booklet, found
a cave of prime spirits on the famous Istiklal Lebanese delicacies to take home. at most hotels and coffee shops, or download
Street. Feed your fashion hunger, at concept the app – both are free
Make sure to explore the many snack
store 6:05 (8. 01 335450, 605.com.lb) -
venues in and around the square – some
another addition to the area - on the busy
restaurants such as The Chase
avenue of Charles Malek.
lebanontraveler.com
64
The latest events around the country...
Agenda SEPTEMBER
Tue 15
Wed 16
St. Sophie’s Day Celebration
A four-hour guided hike through Ehmej, rural lunch,
concert and Saint Sophie’s Mass. Afterwards enjoy dinner
and an overnight sleep at Auberge Arz Ehmej. 70 227730
Indian dance
Join Martina Argada for weekly dance classes from Fri 18
September-November at the Indian Embassy. Indian Mar Takla Festival
classical dance, Wed, 6-7.30pm; Bollywood dance, Fri, A day of festivities in Bkassine including a fair of
6.30pm-8pm; Mudra yoga asana, Thu, 6-7pm. LL225,000. rural produce and crafts, musical entertainment and
Embassy of India, Hamra. [email protected] activities for kids, organized by Qaqf and Bkassine
Municipality. Fri 18-Sun 20. 07 800580
Ehmej adventure
Escape to Ehmej for a three-day escape in the mountains
of Hafroun and Naznazi. Activities include guided hiking
along 16 trails at different difficulty levels, fauna and
flora interpretation and accommodation. Arz Ehmej. Fri
18-Sun 20. 70 227730
Sat 19
Beirut Yoga Festival 2015
Sun 20
Cutlery Making Demonstration
OCTOBER
Find your inner peace with a festival Famous for its firebird cutlery, head to the
celebrating the mind, body and soul. Sat beautiful town of Jezzine and see artisans Sat 3
19-Sun 20. Tickets available at ihjoz.com continuing the long tradition of cutlery
LL25,000; 2 days LL40,000. Pleine Nature, making. BouRached Cutlery Makers, Jezzine. Kanaan Mansion
Mar Roukoz 07 780082 Discover the history behind one of Jezzine’s
architectural jewels, as the Kanaan Mansion
Apple picking Reviving crafts in Jezzine, opens its doors. Free entrance.
Join the farmers in the harvest of the Alice Eddé has a series of events in her Organized by Karim Kanaan 03 946584
season in Hadath el Jebbe and spend a day boutique in Jbeil’s souk, including a
amongst nature, picking apples. Sat 19-Wed celebration of Alice In Wonderland’s 150th Cultural tour, Rashaya
30. Auberge Hadath el Jebbeh birthday (20 Sep) with a hat decorating Discover Rashaya’s Grape Molasses and
tea party, a visit from French fashion its benefits with a cultural tour of debs
Zahle food festival calligrapher Nicolas Ouchenir, with the syrup and local food tasting. Union of
Head to Zahle for this two day festival of launch of a new fragrance (11 Oct), a Municipalities of Jabal el Sheikh and
Lebanese food. The event is part of the celebration of Halloween (1 Nov) and Rashaya Associations. Sat 3-4. 08 590555
UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network Program. Saint Barbara (5 Dec) with fancy dress and
Municipal Park-Joseph Tohme Skaff. Sat 19- sweets. 09 943023, eddeyard.com. Olea Olive Oil Festival
Sun 20. 08 820222 During the month of October every weekend
will Lebaa will host special activities around
Canyoning in Hammana Fri 25 olive oil with a farmers market featuring
olive oil, aromatic olive oil, tapenade, soap
Spend a day canyoning in the Hammana
River. Meeting point National Museum. Martial Arts Festival and other produce of the Jezzine area. There
LL60,000. Footprints Nature Club The first festival of its kind in Lebanon will also be olive picking and olive oil tasting
dedicated to martial arts, Downtown will activities. Every weekend in October and
Overnight trip to Kfarhabou host two days of every form of martial November. Olea Coop. 03 396052.
Spend a night in a traditional Lebanese arts including a show by the world
village home to prepare for a hike through renowned Shaolin Monks and world
Kfarhabou the following day. Meeting point champions in karate, kung fu, taekwondo For daily event updates visit
National Museum. LL37,500. Footprints and performances from 70 professionals lebanontraveler.com
Nature Club athletes. Fri 25-Sat 26
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Sun 4
Olive picking
Wed 7
Vinifest 2015
NOVEMBER
A day olive picking in rural Appreciate a good wine (or two)
Batroun or Jbeil. Meeting point at Vinifest, Lebanon’s yearly
Sun 1
facing Pain d’Or, Sin el Fil. wine festival. This year takes Rappel and mountain climbing
Adults LL60,000; Kids LL45,000 the theme “wine and tasting,” A trip to the region of Afqa for an active day of rappelling and mountain
including lunch and transport. sounds good to us! Wed 7-Sat climbing. Meeting point National Museum. LL60,000. Footprints
NEOS Kids 10. LL25,000. 01 280085, 03
260986. vinifestlebanon.com Tartej hike
Mazraet el Shouf hike
A moderate-level 12km hike A hike through the mountains of Jbeil with level 4 hikers (8km)
from Mazraet el Shouf to Kherbet Wed 14 passing along the Roman path to Douma and level 7 hikers (13km)
Bisri. Meeting point Sagesse following a labyrinth through karstic rocks. Meeting point La Sagesse
LMT Fall Trek parking lot, 7.30am. LL40,000 including transport. Liban Trek
University, Furn el Chebbak, 8am.
Promoting a protection of the
LL45,000 including breakfast,
historical Lebanon Mountain
lunch, transport. ProMax
Trail, the LMT Association’s fall
Thu 12 Sun 15
River hike trek is a ten day hike covering
A day of “wet hiking” along 470km. If you want to take part, Beirut Cooking Festival & Bekaa wine tour
the river of Reshmaya in Aley. you can do the entire 10 day Salon Du Chocolat A weekend trip to the winery
Meeting point National Museum. hike, or pick a weekend or single The highlight of the annual delights of the Bekaa Valley
LL36,000 including transport. day to join. Wed 14-Sat 24. 05 culinary calendar, Beirut stopping at Chateau Nakad,
Footprints Nature Club 955302, lebanontrail.org Cooking Festival is all about Cave Le Noble and Domaine
underlining the city’s place Taanayel with wine tasting with
as a capital of taste. Held sommelier Carlos Khachan and a
Sat 31 simultaneously is the country’s walk around the lake. Lunch at
Poetry in the village biggest chocolate festival. Khan El Maksoud. Meeting point
An Evening of poetry and the traditional Zajal in Rashaya el Wadi, BIEL. Thu 12-Sat 14. Daily 11am- Sagesse School parking, Jdeideh,
featuring local artists and food. Youth Forum of Wadi el Taym. 8pm, beirutcookingfestival.com, 9am. LL75,000 including
76 731972 salonduchocolatbeirut.com transport. Club Grappe
SPOTLIGHT most adventurous and challenging
PolyLiban
events, followed by the PolyLiban cycling
tour from 14-18 September. The PDC is ADDRESS
Sat 14 BOOK
the highest multi-sport non-competitive
Since its creation in 2008, the Association event in the Middle East that aims to Auberge Hadath el Jebbeh
du PolyLiban (ADPL) has been promoting 03 951888, 71 680222,
link the coast to the highest peak in
cycling as a responsible means of hadatheljebbeh.com
less than 24 hours while practicing
transportation while touring the rural rafting, swimming, cycling and trekking Club Grappe
areas of Lebanon. The ADPL organizes from Byblos to the Cedars of Bcharreh, 03 611603, clubgrappe.com
more than ten events every year in passing through 30 villages. PolyLiban Footprints Nature Club
which around 1500 people participate continue through the fall with BANFF 03 876112, footprintsclub.com
to discover the rich cultural and natural Mountain Film Festival (16-17 November,
heritage of Lebanon. On 19-20 September banfflebanon.com) and Tour of Beirut (22 Liban Trek
PolyLiban will hold The Polyathlon des November). Polyliban.org 01 329975, 03 291616, libantrek.com
Cèdres (PDC), one of the association’s Mira Minkara
70 126764, [email protected]
Mira’s guided tours
NEOS Kids
03 733818, neoslb.com
ProMax
03 955642, promaxsports.com
lebanontraveler.com
66 Insider Tips
Tania Kassis
Internationally renowned Lebanese singer Tania Kassis, known
for her hit the “Islamo-Christian AVE” – which fused Ave Maria
with the muezzin’s Allah Akhbar, has toured all over the world.
The ultimate patriot, she shares her love of Lebanon; from
traditional dining spots to escapes into nature
If someone were visiting Lebanon for Name one village or region that feels Raouche you can enjoy a nice coffee in the
24 hours where would you take them? like home. morning or a glass of wine at sunset.
I would start by taking them to visit the I have always regretted not belonging to a
Jeitta grotto – a treasure of Lebanon not village – our family is from Beirut. However Are you a mountain or sea kind of girl?
to be missed – then Harissa to enjoy the Faqra is definitely my favorite place. I spend I’m a little bit of both but my preference is
magnificent view over the bay of Jounieh summer there every year and enjoy great for the sea. Looking at the horizon gives me
and tell them about our Lady of Lebanon, winter moments too. I like the nature, the a wonderful feeling of freedom. My favorite
who is worshiped by both Christians and flowers, the trees, the colors, the calm, the spot is the rock strip at ATCL where I often sit
Muslims. I would take them to visit the sunset, the snow and the wonderful scenery. alone listening to chill out music, looking at
wonderful archeological site of Byblos in the bay of Jounieh and our Lady of Lebanon,
the afternoon, with a nice walk through What’s your favorite outdoor activity with whom I have a very special relationship.
the old Souks, and end the day with a in Lebanon?
delicious Lebanese fish dinner in one of the taniakassis.com
I like to swim and enjoy sunny days on
restaurants of Byblos harbor. the beach. I usually go to L’Automobile et
Touring Club du Liban (ATCL, 09 640567,
Name your three favorite places to go atcl.org, Jounieh), Sporting (01 742481,
for Sunday brunch? Manara) or to one of our beautiful beaches
My favorite one is Al Falamanki (01 323456, in Jiyeh, Damour or Jbeil.
alfalamanki.com, Monot Street) for a
typical Lebanese brunch, followed by the Where would you go for the perfect
great international buffet at the Four cozy winter weekend getaway in
Seasons Hotel (01 761000, Minet El Hosn) Lebanon?
or Al Mandaloun Café (01 321600/700, The InterContinental Mountain Resort &
almandaloun.com, Charles Malek Ave, Spa, Mzaar (09 340100, icmzaar.com, Mzaar,
Tabaris). Kfardebian) is a place I love during winter.
It’s wonderful to enjoy the slopes. I’m a
What is your favorite Lebanese wine big fan of skiing, as well as the
or arak? after-ski pleasures, with the spa
I’m a big fan of Lebanese wine; my favorite access at The InterContinental
is Kefraya’s Comte de M. and the restaurant offering
fondue and raclette with a
Tell us about your hidden gem in good wine.
Lebanon; one destination awaiting
discovery. Name one of your
Qanat Baqish’s natural setting and urban secrets.
magnificent view of the valley is a quiet At the simple restaurants
place for a nice moment of solitude. around the Pigeon Rocks at
lebanontraveler.com
Planning your next exhibition, conference, congress, or celebration Mövenpick Hotel Beirut
in the Lebanese capital? With a wide array of multi-purpose Général de Gaulle Avenue
facilities, comprising 11 indoor and outdoor fully equipped Raoucheh 2038 6908, Beirut - Lebanon
venues catering for up to 500 guests, the Mövenpick Hotel Beirut Phone + 961 1 869 666, Fax + 961 1 799 505
is undeniably your venue of choice. For more information, please [email protected]
contact our Meetings & Events team by calling: +961 1 869666 Ext. www.facebook.com/Moevenpick.Hotel.Beirut
8234 or email: [email protected]. @MovenpickBei
www.moevenpick-hotels.com
Captivating setting fruitful meetings.

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3

A publication of Hospitality Services in a joint

Find your own fall and take us on your journey

Contents The lastest happenings around the country

News 5 MINUTES WITH…

Inspired by metro maps, Zawarib’s new Beirut Urban

How did you select the places to feature on

we speak your language

For more news visit lebanontraveler.com

1. [IN]Leb Women’s t-shirt LL45,000 at

2. Green Cedar Lebanon bracelet by

3. I Love Lebanon purse LL33,000 at

4. Hand painted papier-mâché tray by

5. Lebanon coffee tray in wood by Raeda

7. Metal signs LL22,500 at Glady’s Shop

the real Shouf

Nora Joumblatt, president of the Beiteddine Festival, is one of

What do you consider to be the Is there a focus on rural and eco-

How will the campaign help promote

The tradition of Lebanon’s

The arak industry is very, very old

Photo: Myriam Shuman

Lebanon’s oldest arak producers

business at the age of 12 after his

Arak Touma One of the main issues they are

Ksarak El Massaya Arak

Photo: Roula Koussaifi

Denaybeh plant to prepare food with borghol, photo: WADA

Women of the land

Women have a big role in

Photo: APJM Jabal Moussa

Photo: Shouf Biosphere Reserve

Photos: Myriam Shuman

2 Souk Qab Elias

3 Hima Anjar Where To Eat

In Qab Elias spend an afternoon wine

Beyond Beirut Art Fair

Life’s little pleasures

Faint echoes of what sounds like an Oum Kalthoum

Kahil is not so fussy when it comes to how she chooses

Words and photos by Jimmy Dabbagh

Get the kit

Photo: Roula Koussaifi

Photos: Food Heritage Foundation

It’s become a landmark for many

Photo: 4bArchitects - Said Bitar

Photos: Sam Tarling

What was your brief before starting

Food wise, what is on offer?

Photo: Jacques Aboukhaled

The Sursock Museum's rebirth

Etel Adnan, Le Mont Tamalpaïs, 1985, Oil on canvas,

Photos: Roland Ragi

This job is in my blood

Ink and Paper

Livres Anciens Hassan Hijazi & Sons Est.

Hassan Hijazi & Sons

1. Family camp near Mar Moussa