Eden WT800 Service Notes

8/19/13

Eden E-WT800-C S/N 6809ED027 E-TW800C No Output Start 1:15PM Stop 6:15PM

Pulled the top cover off, gave initial inspection, then removed both the left and right
channel output modules, to see if there’s any failed silicon on them. Both were ok, so
installed the modules again. While I had the modules removed, I powered up the
chassis, found the Output Limit LED’s lit, but didn’t investigate, thinking it’s related to
there being no modules installed.

While putting the modules back in, I found of the power supply PCB assy’s # 8-32 Pem
Standoff’s have pulled out from the chassis, and protruding out of the chassis Looking
to see if I couldn’t tighten those up by drawing them in with their mounting screws, I
found the two IC regulators that mount towards the center of the preamp board had it’s
TO220 15V regulator blown in half, mechanical failure, would be my diagnosis, from
those two front Pem Standoff’s.

On the preamp board, I also found an audio IC JRC J2048 blown in half. I don’t know
how many more bad IC’s there are, but it wouldn’t surprise me to find more.

Now in order to repair this…..I”m going to need to remove those two mounting screws,
then probably remove the power supply board itself, which will be a total pain in the ass,
and replace these broken standoff’s with an alternative hardware to function as the
hold-down method.

Pulling the power amp modules back out, as I will need space for disassembly.

I believe I labeled all the transformer wires that were plugged into the power supply
PCB. By the time I finally had the board disconnected, I found several more wires that I
didn’t label….meaning they weren’t plugged in….or, if they were plugged in (or
supposed to be plugged in), I’ve no idea where they go!!!

The failed # 8-32 spacer is just a tad over 0.400”….the distance is critical, as the 7815T
& 7915T voltage regulators are screwed down to the floor of the PCB, and the leads are
bent and soldered in at the top corner of the board. It’s stressing the parts leads….one
of them had failed mechanically. I stared with the same height, made up with # 6-32 x
0.875” fillister head screws, centered with # 6 nylon shoulder screws, metal flat washer,
then a # 6-32 x 0.250” standoff, followed by some washers. I had to remove one of the
washers in order for the leads of the regulators to reach all the way thru the PCB from
the chassis floor.

One of the two rear facing PS board mtg screws had a Pem Standoff that is loose, but it
wasn’t to the extent of the other ones that had outright failed up front. So, I have the
board mechanically stable again. Then, re-installed the transformer wiring.

On the +/- 15V system, I powered it up with the Tektronix PS503A feeding the input to
the regulators. I found two more IC’s that were reading negative on their outputs,
but…..even with the IC removed, I still see similar voltage.
The markings on the chip is 72D and J024B. So, I was wrong about what the chips
are. 72D may be TL072. Checking the schematics for the preamp board.
Yup…..everything is TL072’s. U9B, which was the one that had blown in half, has nearly
fully negative voltage on it’s output. The voltages at Pins 5 & 6 are near 0V, so I’m not
getting a reason yet for this.

The preamp schematic I have for this showes this is AC coupled on both the inputs and
outputs. It’s the lline amp stage following the Master Volume control. So, is the
feedback resistor open? There is no feedback resistor on U9B, and the schematic I
have doesn’t reflect what I have on the bench.

Also, I am getting no voltage to the regulators. What I need now, is another of these
Eden amps that is working…..same version, so I can see what isn’t connected! Right
now, I don’t’ have a clue, though I’d guess I don’t’ have the appropriate transformer
connections to give me the low voltage bipolar supplies.

I found the low voltage AC secondary winding w/ center tap, and the connections they
need to plug into on the power supply board. THEY WERE NOT CONNECTED when I
took this apart.! There’s also another wire that’s jumpered, where the short jumper isn’t
connected anywhere. I think I need to see how this is fully wired up. But, for the
moment, I have output happening again.

This has been shooting in the dark, for a great deal of the time.

8/20/13

Eden E-WT800-C S/N 6809ED027 E-TW800C No Output Start: 12:30PM

Stop 1:45PM

Meanwhile, I need to check across the street for an identical version of the Eden WT800
bass amp, to verify the connections and the couple IC’s that may or may not be correct.
I looked closer, and found that last disconnected wire was supposed to go to the XLR
direct output, and it’s associated with the GND/Float switch. So, all the wires have been
identified.

Connected to speakers, both in Stereo and Bridge Mono. I thought Bridge was 1+/2+,
but I didn’t get any output. Rang out the circuit, and found it was 1+/1-, and used that
relay to connect the second channel to the 1- terminal. Everything worked in Bridge
Mono as well. Now checking to get the Fan to switch on, as it never did come on while
I was playing thru the amp. So, put it into Bridge Mono, 8 ohm load, and ran burst pink
noise into it, seeing around 3A AC Mains levels under drive. That was enough to close
one or both of the thermal switches and turn the fan on. Let it burn in while I put the top
cover back on. I never did find the missing Pem Nut from the left side for the top cover
screw.

So, total labor hours to bill on this are: 6-1/4 hrs labor invested. I’ll bill for 4.5 hrs plus
the two voltage regulators and the power supply PCB mounting hardware.
9/19/13

Eden W-800-C Bass Amp AuntieM, No Output Start 11:30AM Stop 12PM

After multiple powerings of the Eden amp without any issues, I plugged in the speaker
and bass, set for Bridged Mono, and found there’s a nasty lingering distortion. Switched
back to Stereo, checked both channels, and still hear the same thing, so powered down,
and will swap out the tube, and see what that does. I didn’t hear this the other day
when I was burst testing the amp, but….I was using pink noise, while I only hear this
distortion on the decay of notes played.

Changing the input tube cured that. Sounds ok now. Put it back together, finished the
invoice, emailed it to AuntieM.

4/18/14

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3061 ‘Scratchy sounding’ Start 1:10PM Stop 2:40PM

I exercised all the connectors in the unit, as well as the IC sockets & all the pots. Pulled
both amp modules out to inspect, and they looked ok top and bottom. Powered the
amp up, listened to it first with burst pink noise in Stereo mode, then with bass, also in
Stereo mode with the Ampeg 4 ohm speaker attached, then put it into Bridge Mono
mode, same speaker, and it rocks. I can never get the G string on this Carvin bass to
respond right, but it has decent bottom and mid on the other 3 srings. It sounds good
enough to my ears, so I’ll take this one back now, after I put it back together, replacing
the top cover # 4 screws with # 6 self-tapping FHMS’s. I didn’t stop to re-drill the top
cover.

Took the amp back to Ryan, after writing up the report.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3064 ‘Scratchy sounding’ Start 2:50PM Stop 3:20PM

Pulled the top cover off…I recognize my mechanical work on this one, having tapped
the top chassis flanges for $ 6-32 & C’SK’ng the cover for the # 6 FHMS heads. Moved
the amp over to the repair bench for check-out.

I looked at my service notes from 9/21/09 on this amp, when it had little or no output. I
had the amp completely apart back then, made repairs on both amp modules’s
fractured solder joints (6-pin connectors), cut away anodizing for the controls to get
grounded…Eden made feeble attempt to do that, I completed the task. I had the signal
cutting in and out by flexing the chassis, and after a lot of misc. PCB servicing, that
problem ceased, and became solid. I had the power supply board out as well, though
all was ok there….they never bothered with cleaning the flux off their boards! I had also
standardized on chassis hardware on this one, and had composed the hardware list &
changes needed.

Stopped to go listen to problem on the Eden I just serviced. Input jack noise, and bass
breaking up badly. I didn’t hear that over here, and don’t know why, but….wasn’t there
a ground lug or lead that had to get seated between the shield before. I forgot about
that, and maybe that’s what’s happening? Gotta look. I also need to pull the preamp
board out to have a surgical look at this.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3061 ‘Scratchy sounding’ Start 3:30PM Stop 4:30PM

After I took this amp back apart and looked close…sure enough….there is a film
capacitor, with one lead connected to the insulated ground terminal of the input jack,
and the other lead hanging loose, with the thought that by putting it between the
insulated M6 shield, the insulated jack and the insulated anodized front panel, the lead
will magically connect to chassis ground!! I went further by not remembering it was
there, so it wasn’t clamped between anything, and just loosely touching the M6 shield,
making a lot of racket!

Luckily, by pulling the shield off, taking my scrapers and cutting away the anodizing in
the area where the M6 shield would make contact, I prepared a grounded surface for
the front panel, and also scraped away the coating on the M6 shield, tried to get the
lead between the shield and the panel, but could only get it between the insulated jack
body and the shield. I also scraped away the coating from under the head of the rear
screw that takes the shield to chassis ground.

The net result when I put it all back together, the gain control, the enhance control and
the input jack by way of the cap all make good solid contact to ground, and the noise we
heard earlier is gone completely.

I’ll have to address all this on the rest of the Eden’s when they get back. I had
explained the backwards philosophy of joining painted or anodized surfaces together,
and believing that because they are metal clamping them tightly together makes good
ground continuity. HAH!!

So, now back to the second Eden. It may just be the same issue with this amp.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3064 ‘Scratchy sounding’ Start 4:30PM Stop 5:20PM

I already have the shield removed, so need to remove insulation from the shield, as well
as from the anodized panel around the jack & gain control, and around the screw.

Took care of all that, so I put the shield back in, got the cap lead placed between the
jack body and the shield, tightened everything down, checked it with the ohmmeter, all
looks good. Finished reseating connectors, then plugged it in to give a listen. The
volume control was a bit scratchy…had to exercise it a lot to work out the contact noise,
but it sounds ok after doing so. Listened to it in Stereo and Bridge Mono.

Put the cover back into place, wrote up the paperwork, and took the unit back to the
Guitar Dept.

4/22/14

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3064 ‘Scratchy sounding’ Start 1PM Stop 2:15PM
Pulled the amp back apart, removed the Rt Ch amp module, touched up some solder
joints on the emitter resistors. Pulled up the power supply PCB assembly to look at the
connections from the amp, and all looked ok there. The wiring between the Binding
Posts and the phone jack (which is what Ryan used) was hand-wiring, all solid. I
remounted that module, and moved to the Left Ch module. Touched up some solder
joints on emitter resistors. On the floor of the chassis, a pair of 5W bathtube resistors
that had once been glued to the floor have come undone, and the previous fix by
someone else, who didn’t bother to scrape away old glue, came undone as well.

I scraped away all the old glue from the resistors and the chassis, applied a new gob of

RTV, but really need a C-clamp to hold it down in place. Don’t have that, so for the
moment, I have my Wiha Bladed screwdriver wedged between the resistors and the
bottom of the preamp board to force it down while I see if I can track Carlos down and
borrow a clamp from him. Couldn’t find Carlos…went as far as the warehouse, found a
C-Clamp and another pair of clamps, but none were deep enough to reach the resistor
location.

So, had to resort to using the spring-loaded Bogen clamp I have here, with a short
length of molding to serve as a clamping arm, and set that into place. So, until the glue
dries tomorrow, and I see if it will hold, I can’t go any further on that amp.

4/23/14

I checked the glue-up on the pair of resistors I had clamped to the chassis floor of the
Eden. They feel secure (for now) as a result of them being clamped while setting up, so
I’ll be able to re-assemble the amp and see what Ryan was hearing. I suppose I should
try and inject some Caig DeOxit into the Gain control…requires removing the shield
again to do that.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3604 Amp cuts out…Gain Control Start 2:30PM Stop
4:20PM

Pulled the clamp off that I had used yesterday to glue the resistors to the chassis floor.
Put the left ch heat sink assembly back into place, connected it up, powered up &
plugged the bass into it, starting with the Left Ch (right side facing front). No output until
I turned the gain control up enough, then it cut in. Same noisy shit I was hearing
yesterday, so I’ll try the quick fix first, seeing if I can seep enough DeOxit into the pot. If
that don’t do it, I gotta take the preamp board out.

That worked on the Gain control. I had more gritty problems on the Balance control, but
fortunately that pot is with lead wires, open side up, so I was able to seep in DeOxit and
exercise it.

The Sweep EQ controls….the LF control was acting up a lot, distorting sometimes. I

hope I can solve it with DeOxit, and not have to rip the board out. I do have to take the
upper Freq Board off to get at it though. Which means LED alignment problems on the
way back in.
Got that cured with just DeOxit being seeped into the controls. Thought I was done,
until I heard the Left Ch crap out, after the Right Ch was solid. I messed with the phone
jack connection, exercising the connection until the distortion stopped. Contact
corrosion. Pulled the amp back over to the bench, cleaned the contacts first with
alcohol & round scrub brush, followed by DeOxit, scrubbing away at the contacts. Now
checking the results.

First note distorted….exercised the jack again, and it was gone. Weird. I’m sending it
back, as I don’t find it happening with the Banana jacks…..and I don’t have any
replacement phone jacks for this at present, unless I order some or rob some from the
last WT-800 chassis that’s been sitting on the shelf for the last couple years.

Returned the amp to inventory.

5/22/14

Eden WT-800 Bass Amp Asset # 3207 ‘Bad Sound’ Start 4:20PM Stop 4:50PM

Pulled top cover off for beginners. Removed the two power amp modules for
inspection. Removed the shield around the input stage, so I can sand the M6 steel
shield for solid grounding to the bypass cap lead folded up from below the PCB, that
must make contact with this shield. There is good grounding on the inside of the
anodized panel from previous efforts..factory perhaps?

I’ll re-seat the IC’s in this area before putting the shield back into place. Got that part
done. Re-seated all the IC’s on the preamp board.

I need to re-solder the 6-pin headers on both power amp modules, as well as some
solder joints on the output stage. Both PCB’s are uncleaned…flux everywhere.

5/23/14

Eden WT-800 Bass Amp Asset # 3207 ‘Bad Sound’ Start 10:15AM

Clean-up & solder repairs on the two power amp modules. Got both modules cleaned,
and solder repairs made. I lifted up the power supply PCB assembly, to see if there’s
any fractures on it….all in good shape. I reseated all the IC’s on the preamp board.
The power resistors are firmly glued to the chassis floor on that one circuit (hate that
method!).

Now, I need to clean and exercise the rear panel output phone jacks, as that was a
problem on the last WT-800 Amp for some stupid reason. No trouble with the Dual
Banana jacks, which was how I was hooking up, and missed the distortion / sound
problems the jacks were imposing.

Cleaned the jacks with alcohol & Caig DeOxit. I still have yet to power this amp up and
work thru the controls, and see what I need to deal with on the preamp. Also, what’s
the bias on this? On the WT800C amp module (3 output pair), they call for 7mV per
string between the upper & lower emitters. I’ll take a look on this one.
Powering up the Eden to see what I’ve got in bias, offset, etc. Bias was 7mV on both
sides on one pair, other pair was around half-that. Exercised the controls, cleaned all
the rear panel phone jacks with alcohol & Caig. DeOxit. Checked the output jacks while
playing bass, disconnecting & re-connecting the jacks, jiggling the jacks without hearing
what I heard on the previous WT-800.

No issues with the input jack that I heard, hammering on the bass and trying to get that
to screw up. Both channels work, all the controls are quiet. Sounds good in stereo, and
awesome in Bridge Mono. While I had the DMM across the output stage pair (for DC
bias), in Stereo, that voltage change wasn’t much while playing, but in Bridge Mono, lots
of potential….and the AC Mains current goes up considerably (each amp driving 2
ohms in that mode. Really needs to be an 8-ohm load for Bridge. It got the fan to go
into hi speed, let it cool, it dropped down to idle (not running), so the fan temp control
function is working.

Put the cover back on. Left side middle bottom screw missing a pem nut. I didn’t pull it
back apart to put a clip nut into place.

8/25/14

Eden WT-800 Bass Amp AuntieM # E-WT800C Crackling Sounds Start 1:15PM
Stop 4:30PM

Checking database.Replaced IC regulators & hardware issues 8/20/13 then no output

from a bad AC Mains Triac 9/19/13. No history of crackling noises on this amp, but
plenty with C/S’s amps.

Pulling cover to see what’s up. Powered up, after first looking things over. With the
Master Volume turned down all the way, there’s substantial buzz coming thru, which
goes away as I turn the volume up. I shouldn’t be hearing this at all. Where it’s coming
from???? The Right Ch has DC or noise on the pot, which ISN’T on the Left Ch. I can’t
exercise it out, so it may be DC, or bad solder joints.

Adjusting the AC Mains does affect the hum pickup with the pot down, so there’s also
loop area that I’m dealing with. That could well be with the shielded cables and the long
green wires that I assume are shields.

Powered down, and re-seating all the connectors for starters. Reseating everything I
could unplug, made no difference.

Gotta pull the front panel PCB’s out to see what’s up.

The PCB is all LEAD-FREE Solder. The Desoldering Iron IS USELESS!!! The I/O
header pins are all cold solder joints, the Master Volume control was installed using 18”
of solder, and I destroyed solder pads removing it. Now have to patch it back together.
I applied Caig DeOxit in the process, but…I don’t know if that was the fault. I suspect
not.

Getting this re-built so every I/O is solid may totally destroy the board!
I got out a 4-pin female mating connector, and then tackled all the 4mm spaced 0.062”
sq pin headers, de-soldering and re-soldered the lot of them across the rear of the PCB.

Tomorrow, I’ll apply +/- 15VDC to the board and see if I have DC on the Master Volume
pot or not.

8/26/14

Eden WT-800 Bass Amp AuntieM # E-WT800C Crackling Sounds Start 10AM

Powered up the PCB after checking schematic to find where the Master Volume output
appears. I don’t see the noise on the pot anymore, but with the board open on the
bench, I had lots of hum pickup. Time to re-install the board to see if anything has
changed..

Nothing has changed. The Right Channel side of the Master Volume pot is still screwed
up. I need to change that pot…only what do I have for a replacement? There is an
Eden WT800 in here, not functional (or at least not restored), that doesn’t’ have the pot
soldered to the board. Now, I went thru hell getting that pot pulled to clean, then re-
installed and patched back together, so this is gonna be a bitch this time around!

And, the hum is still there big-time.

Swapping IC’s following the pot made no difference…problem remains on the Right Ch
side of the pot.

I pulled the other WT800 amp apart, lifted out the preamp board, managed to get the
Master Volume pot unsoldered from that board…encountered Lead-Free solder again,
but managed to feed Leaded solder onto the joints and de-soldered with the PACE. It’s
a Dual Gang 100KB….LINEAR taper pot.. Is that right? Physically looks the same (I
think) as I had removed yesterday.

So, now pulling the WT800C apart again. I was able to get the bad pot out without
further destroying the PCB. I WAS NOT able to de-solder the two caps with the PACE.
Had to once again resort to using solder wick. The pot in the new board was NOT a
100k Linear. It was a 100k C-taper…..reverse Log. Same as the FREQ Crossover pot,
AND the Sweep EQ pots. I had sometime back bought some from Eden, found the
stash, and installed one of those, so the exercise in removing the 100k Linear from the
older unit was….well, an exercise in futility. I didn’t know.

I put the new pot in, re-installed the boards, control knobs, and powered it up. That
cured the noise on Ch B. But, I discovered a new problem that I’ve never seen before.

The MUTE function, pulling out the Gain control….if that pot is cranked up all the way,
the amp goes beserk! But, with speaker attached, it’s tame….just doesn’t’ mute if the
Gain is cranked full CW. I couldn’t find anything in the schematics to explain it….didn’t
find the mute switch for starters. Maybe I’ll post something about this, but for now, the
noise is gone that it came in here for, so time to write it up.
4/6/15

Eden WT-800 AuntieM Asset # E-WT800C Cuts in/out Start 9:45AM Stop 2:30PM

Set the amp with 1 octave 100Hz pink noise driving the 4 ohm Ampeg speaker ,
average AC Mains current around 4..5 Amp/420W @ 120VAC. Noisy, of course,
rattling everything in the room during this test.

After a few minutes, I heard some pops from the speaker, and then the output level
kicked up a lot higher, with resulting much higher current draw from the AC Mains. So,
something is changing in Bridge Mono mode. Not sure from where. With the volume
control at full CCW, in Bridge Mode, I’m hearing popping noise, but not hearing anything
from either channel (still set for Bridge). This may take some time to sort out, whatever
it is.

I found the Right Ch heat sink (left side, facing front) had bad solder connections on the
power supply/output connector. Repaired those. Inspected the Left/Bridge Output PCB
assy, all looked ok there. Put the modules back in, ran it for a while under resistive
load. I finally saw the output level once again suddenly increase by 6dB….pulling loads
of current, of course. I don’t now what is causing that, but at least I know now it’s NOT
from the output connector I just repaired. So, those two things are not directly related.
Still have to find this othe problem, which is probably on the preamp PCB assy. So, I
have to remove that board to go hunting.

After removing the preamp boards, I didn’t find any issues with any of the soldering. I
reseated all of the IC’s repeatedly, and re-installed the boards. Powered it back up, and
ran it first in Stereo, then in Bridge Mono, no load, and finally back under 4 ohm load.
This time out, after over half an hour running, I never saw the amp shift into the higher
output mode, which I had been seeing after running for some time, not knowing what
caused it or where. With an average current draw of around 5A, it never thermal cycled.
So, I think I’ll put this back together, and give one last check with the bass.

Plugged in with the bass, 4 ohm bridge mono. Sounds solid, though I wasn’t pushing it
as hard as I was with 100Hz 1 oct pink noise, or under resistive drive 1/3 oct 100Hz
pink. Since taking the preamp board out, reseating all the IC’s and the harness
connections, it hasn’t shifted into that higher output level, so…I think that problem is
gone. That and the problems found on the Right Ch power amp modules’ header, I
think we’re ok now. Writing up the invoice, then emailed to Martyn.

7/20/15

Eden WT-800b AuntieM Blows Fuses Start 4PM Stop 4:20PM

Parts came in, so have the amp module on the bench, after pulling the top cover back
off.

One of the problems with this module is the location of the mounting screws for the TIP
41C/42C driver transistors. The leads of the TO-220 parts are NOT long enough to
pass thru the PCB, with where the PCB is mounted. Unless, I have the PCB set down
too low. That IS the case….there’s no mechanical mounting brackets, so the PCB
position is entirely set by the device terminals…and hence the flexing of that board can
break the connections! I need to look closer at this. Also looking at using 3 pair of
outputs, since this module failed using two pair of MJL21193/94 outputs.

7/21/15

Eden WT-800b AuntieM Blows Fuses Start 11:15AM

Continuing where I left off….re-positioning the PCB to get the TIP 41C/42C drivers
leads to pass thru the PCB, while not over-stressing the leads on the power xstrs. What
assurance do I have there, for that matter?

The PCB layout doesn’t accommodate 3 TO-3P packages….no room for installing a
third pair of output xstrs! If I had ordered MJW21193 & MJW21194’s, then I could have
installed them! Why didn’t I check the mechanics of this before? But, prior to this
module layout, they were using two pair of M200 Sanken Xstrs, and I don’t recall having
to replace many of those over the years.

So, I loosened up the mounting screws, and pushed the pcb up enough to have
sufficient lead length come thru the driver Xstr solder pads, and soldered everything into
place. So, time for PCB clean-up and testing.

Neither of the power amp module’s bias pots are working!! The module I just repaired
has 6mV across the pair of emitter resistors, and 550mV from base to base on the
output stage…that seems reasonable.

The other module has 1.06V base to base, and 30mV across the emitter
resistors…though when I first powered it up, it was like 12mV. Turning the 20-turn trim
pots doesn’t change ANYTHING!!

So, there’s more problems present. How can I get the bias circuits to work??

Got to pull the amp modules again! After getting the modules out of the chassis, I went
to measure the bias pots. I got no reading. Removed them, which was another
exercise in non-conduction of heat with the de-soldering iron tip!!! Never allow anything
to work when required!

Eventually, I was able to remove the trim pots. Open Ckt at 200k DMM setting.
Changed to 2M, and got near-1M pot readings! Looked at the JAN code on them…105.
105 = 1M!! What fool put 1M bias trim pots in series with the 1k resistor between base
& emitter?? No wonder the output stage is turning on somewhat hard….the bias xstr is
turning on totally turned off!! I don’t’ have any trim pots on hand….used to have some
trim pots here, but I’ve no idea where that bag of multi-turn pots is now.

I searched thru all the logical choice boxes for where that bag of 200 ohm thru 10k
multiturn trim pots would be, but no luck. NO Trimpots on hand, period!

So, that leaves manual hand-picked resistors to bias this thing up. What’s in circuit
should be 3.9k C-B resistor and 1k in series with the trim pot B-E. So, first, I need to
see what 0 ohms does for R-Trim.
Whoops.! The pot I was diddling was OFFET Adjust…that DOES use a 1M multi-turn
trim pot, so put them back into place. The real Trim pot is in the center of the board,
front edge!! Stupid me!

I got the Left Ch (working) module reset to 0V offset & 7mV bias. Got the repaired
module biased to 7mV, with very little range variation. But, the DC offset is 400mV!!!,
and I can’t get it to trim down!!! So, I’m still nowhere!

Stop 2:30PM Start 3:15PM Stop 5PM

Replaced Q7,m Q8, C10, C11, still having unequal voltage drops in collector current of
Q7 & Q8. Finally found D3 shorted, and D50 open…both being 1N4734 5.6V zeners.
Had those on hand, replaced them, now maybe it will balance and work.

Physics has resumed working in the shop…….thank you LORD for re-directing my
attention

I had just enough time to power the amp back up, now bias adjusts correctly, setting it
to 7mA, and DC Offset adjusts correctly. I left before getting signal passing thru the
amp, so that’s next.

7/22/15

Eden WT-800b AuntieM Blows Fuses Start 12PM Stop 1PM

Both channels are working, driving load just fine. Switched to Bridge Mono, running fine
there so far. Letting it burn in to see that the fan turns on. I had installed a T5A fuse in
place of the T10A fuse that was blown. No fuse rating on the product, so I do need to
verify that’s the value called for. Thought it was T8A

Looked it up in their manual…T10A is what’s called out for USA voltages.

I bumped the power output a bit more, into 8 ohm resistive load, finally got the fan to
turn on. Let run for a while that way, then turned signal drive off, let it cool down. I
need to remove the repaired amp module to replace the two thermal switch wires that I
melted during installation of parts. Then, will check one last time before buttoning it up.

4/04/16

Eden WT 800 AuntieM # E-WT800C Changing output levels Start 12:20PM Stop
`1:30PM

Resuming the work on the Preamp PCB assy. I checked continuity on a couple of the
PCB traces having solder patches made, and they’re ok with board flexing. De-
soldered and re-soldered the tube socket, and all the connector header connections,
just because they all looked like cold solder joints. Cleaned up the board, so now it’s
time to re-install the PCB and see if it works now.

I re-installed the PCB’s & panel knobs. Connected up to speaker, burst pink noise
input. I now have full bandwidth, and no hint of drop-outs now. So, was the problem
just the bass pot and gain pot, where I made repairs, or also IDC connections. The
placement of the IDC connections wasn’t a bad move, for sure, as I now have var more
reliable connectivity, base on what I see of the IDC connector. So, time to put the top
cover back on, and move to the other Eden amp.

I only billed for 4 hrs labor on this, as I still had issues after changing out the harness
connections.

Eden WT 800 AuntieM # E-WT800A Intermittent levels, pwr spikes Start 2PM
Stop 6PM

Pulling chassis off. This is an older WT-800, binding posts, earlier amp modules..
Problem stated to be with Right Ch. I’ll check all connections, regardless. I did retain
enough connectors to swap out some of the wiring harness connections.

The Right Ch module had solder frctures on the 6-pin harness connector heder, so
repaired that. The IDC connector on the power supply board had its’ connections tightly
folded coming out of it, so I replaced that connector with the Moles Trifurcon Crimp
connector, and also the rear panel connector plugged into P1.

As is usual, the two series-connected 390 ohm/5W power supply dropping connectors
have seriously over-heated the PCB where the bodies of the four resistors are sitting
directly on the board…..it’s scorched, and probably hve broken down the adhesive of
the foil I don’t think I have anything to replace them with, without ordering new parts,
and spacing them off the board..

I thought there were complaint about the volume pot, but it only says intermitten Ch B
output (volume). No doubt what I just corrected. So, now looking for any issues on the
preamp PCB in general
.
I have four 1.5k 5W MO5S metal oxide resistors, so I pulled the series 390’s, yielding
780 ohms nominal, with 750 ohm 10W…probably close enough. Better mechanically,
as I’e folded the leads so they are stood well abaove the board in the air, though both
resistor bodies are on contact with each other. Plenty of clearance between the two
resistor banks.

Using the Fluke IR prob e, I’m seeing surface temperature on those resistors at around
150 deg C. (70V-15.6V) sq’d / 1500 ohms = 1.5W (ea). The derating curve on the MO3
3W @ 70 deg C is fine, and at 150 deg C, drate to 50%, so I’m ok….they are veryhot,
but looks like within the upper end of the safe zone. It had to be better than it was,
getting the heat off the PCB

Then, looking at the pot connections and jack connections, I found numerous solder
fractures, as well as the power input connections to the power supply dropping
resistors, so it was well worth removing the front panel board. Now, putting it back into
place, and then I’ll look at the Left Ch module.

Pulled the Left Ch amp module out, also found solder fractures on the IO connector
header…repaired those. Removed some lead trimmings that got stuck in the thermal
grease. Then, put the module back into place, Connected the amp up to the supplies,
checked DC offset and bias, all nominal.

Both channels work fine, slam it around mechanically, flex the chassis (cover still off,
and it’s all stable. So, this can go back together. I replaced the headphone end 6-pin
connector with a Trifcurcon crimp connector , then dressed the leads with tie-wraps, so
nothing sits on the power supply dropping resistors that run the preamp bipolar
supplies. Both seem ok, head output is nominal. I’ll leave it on for a while to be sure.

Finished the Eden WT-800 invoice (with both amps on it), then sent that with email to
Martyn.

10/12/16

Eden WT-800-b Auntie M Broken Bass control Start 11AM Stop 11:30AM

I pulled the amp out of the road case, set on the test bench, removed the top cover to
inspect the damage. The Bass Control knob was still there. The knob had taken a hit,
perhaps caused from the absence of foam in the road case, or even being bumped
putting it INTO the case. The road case foam needs replacing or attention.

Anyway, the knob would only turn part way. I removed the knob, found the bushing nut
loose, so tightened it. 6mm spline shaft. I forced a piece of tie wrap material into the
slot of the shaft, then, finding where the hop was, gently tapped on the shaft with
hammer and drive pin until I got full rotation, I thought. Put the knob back on, and found
it still wasn’t rotating all the way, so found again where the hop was, set it at that point,
and tapped onto the knob with the hammer and drive pin, and now have full smooth
rotation on the knob. Re-positioned the knob as it should be.

Powered up the amp, ran burst pink noise thru it to see if the control was working. The
Cut portion was hard to hear with the noise, so I put 50Hz sine into the amp, zero’d the
knob and the meter, turned the bass control CCW, and the level went down 14dB, and
in boost, the same amount. So, the pot survived the damage & repair.

All else seems to work. Put the top cover back on, amp back into the road case.

10/12/16

Eden WT-800-b Auntie M Broken Bass control Start 11AM Stop 11:30AM

I pulled the amp out of the road case, set on the test bench, removed the top cover to
inspect the damage. The Bass Control knob was still there. The knob had taken a hit,
perhaps caused from the absence of foam in the road case, or even being bumped
putting it INTO the case. The road case foam needs replacing or attention.

Anyway, the knob would only turn part way. I removed the knob, found the bushing nut
loose, so tightened it. 6mm spline shaft. I forced a piece of tie wrap material into the
slot of the shaft, then, finding where the hop was, gently tapped on the shaft with
hammer and drive pin until I got full rotation, I thought. Put the knob back on, and found
it still wasn’t rotating all the way, so found again where the hop was, set it at that point,
and tapped onto the knob with the hammer and drive pin, and now have full smooth
rotation on the knob. Re-positioned the knob as it should be.

Powered up the amp, ran burst pink noise thru it to see if the control was working. The
Cut portion was hard to hear with the noise, so I put 50Hz sine into the amp, zero’d the
knob and the meter, turned the bass control CCW, and the level went down 14dB, and
in boost, the same amount. So, the pot survived the damage & repair.

All else seems to work. Put the top cover back on, amp back into the road case.

5/09/17

Eden WT 800 Asset # 003061 Very Low/Staticy Output Start: 12:50PM Stop: 1:30PM
Labor Est Inv # 1065

I removed the top cover for inspection. Powered up, AC mains current/wattage was
nominal. Checked for any DC level on the outputs, and that was nominal (less than
10mVDC). The Crossover was engaged, it being in Biamp mode. The Balance control
and the crossover switch was a little bit staticy in noise…..I exercised the controls until
that went away. Now set back to Wideband, and both channels are normal gain. The
Gain control knob was not installed right…I had to remove it and re-set it so it’s two
extremes (CCW and CW) were like all the rest. I’m not hearing any issues with the
amp. Return to inventory.

7/6/17

Eden WT 800 Auntie M.e-WT-800-a Left Output NG, Low Output level Start: 2:20PM
Stop: 4:20PM 2 hrs labaor.

I removed the top cover, then removed the Left Ch power amp module, inspected it for
any bad semiconductors, resistors or solder joints. None found, returned it to the
chassis. Removed the Right Ch power amp module, did the same, found all ok, and
restored it to te chassis.

Unplugged and res-seated .all the accessible IC’s. Re-seated what PCB connectors I
could get off the headers. Put the amp back onto the bench to check for functionality.
DMM’s connected to the two outputs to see that all comes up at nominal DC offset. All
ok there. AC Mains power/current draw looks nominal…

After messing with the Bi-Amp Mode switch, which was very grungy, I seeped some
Caig De-Oxit solution into it and continued exercising the switch. That cleaned it up.
Both Left and Right Channels are now working normal, all theEQ functions are working.
Works fine in Bridge Mono as well. I have it burning in set up in Bridge Mono for the
time being. I think it was that Bi-Amp switch causing the problem. I’ve exercised the
output speaker jacks. I haven’t yet exercised the Insert Send/Return jacks. I need to do
that yet.

The Insert send/return for the Left Ch works fine. The Insert Return for the Right Ch
doesn’t want to interrupt, as I can patch in the cable, unplug the send to the Right jack,
and still get signal. Not sure why. Everything is working normal again, apart from that.
Putting the cover back on. Its’ missing one of the # 4-40 FHMS’s. Wrote up the
invoice, emailed that to Martyn.

8/22/17

Eden WT 800-c Bass Amp. Right Ch not working, no output. Start: 11:20AM
Stop: 1:30PM 2 hrs labor

I pulled the top cover, and see this is the amp that had intermittent harness problems,
where I had replaced all the IDC connectors with crimp terminals and their associated
shells. The Right Ch module has two pair of MJL21193/21194 power transistors, in
place of the 3 pair of Sanken parts.

Now, I need to see what the status of that heat sink amp is. The Male-Female Stud-
Standoffs that mount the heat sink to the chassis floor have both snapped off. Now, the
heat sink IS drilled & tapped in two more pair of holes, so I can replace these. Sort of. I
doubt if I have mating stud-standoffs for it. The size is not standard. 0.410” standoff.
What do I have in # 8-32?

The # 8-32 stud-standoffs are aluminum. The studs snapped off, leaving a hole at the
top of each standoff. I was able to drive a # 8-32 tap thru the standoff, cut thread all the
way thru. Then, using the chassis mtg screws at one end, I selected a pair of long $ 8-
32 screws, put a crimp across the threads where it would be inside the standoff, and
drove it home to jam it into the standoff. Then, I cut off the head, leaving enough screw
shank to serve as fresh 0.410” long stud-standoffs. Now, I need to mark the new holes,
as the heat sink is drilled and tapped in 3/8” ctrs for these top and bottom screws. I
think I can punch the holes with the Whitney Punch. Scribing the chassis now to try
that.

Now I have new mounting holes and restored standoffs to mount the heat sink
assembly with. Back to the first task. Did the breakage of those standoffs cause any
harm to the module…such as break the leads of the power transistors? The
semiconductors all seem to be intact, the amp module powers up, offset trim works,
bias works. It was running 5mV between the upper and lower emitters. I don’t’ recall
what the bias level is set to. Checking that now. They set it to 7mV at those locations.

AC Mains current/wattage level is 360mA/30W @ 120V. Power supply levels are +/-
82VDC, and +/- 15.2VDC on the preamp supplies. So, the mains fuse is installed
correctly. There are in-line fuses on the output PCB, and they were intact. Still, I need
to check to verify I have output level from the connectors.

The amp was set in Bi-Amp Mode, with the Frequency control set all the way CCW.
Switched out of that mode, and both channels work the same. Works fine In Bridge
Mono mode. Letting it run a little while in Bridge/4 ohms, to see that the fan turns on.

The main problem was the broken standoffs on the Right Ch.
2/09/18

Eden WT-800-b Auntie M Noisy Gain control Start: 12:20PM Stop: 12:50PM 1/2 hr
labor

Pulled the top cover, powered up. Power draw is nominal. Both channels work, Gain
conrol has staticy noise. First, the control wasn’te firmly mounted to the chassis, so I
tightened that up. Then, I sprayed Caig DeOxit 5 into the pot with the crooked nozzle,
exercized the conrol. Tht cured that pot. The Master Volume also had some volume
track issues, and sprayed into it as best I could. Now both channels are well behaved.
Exercised & listened to all the controls, both channels, all working nominal.

8/22/18

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3207 No Output Start: 12:25PM Stop: 2:30PM

Est Inv # 1235

Binding post version. Pulling top cover for inspection. Nothing obvious. Connected 2
channels of HP 3467A DCV to the Left & Right outputs, ran the variac up slowly, looking
for fault current. Came up fine. 0.45A/37W @ 120VAC. DC offset seems to be
wandering, nominal 35mV on the Left, 8mV on the right, but are wandering a good deal,
all well below +/- 100mV. Not sure why.

Connecting analyzer, no load, connecting input signal to see if I get any output. Amp
was in Bridge Mono mode. And in Bi-Amp mode. No wonder there wasn’t any output!

Initially, not seeing it WAS in Bi-Amp mode, checking the Left Ch (right Ch side binding
posts viewed from the front), I wasn’t getting any LF response, then suddenly when I
cranked the LF Sweep EQ, I got response, then it went ceased, making me think I had
intermittent behavior. All was ok once I switched to Dual Mono from Bi-Amp mode.
Worked as expected in Bridge Mono, as far as outputs into the analyzer/scope with Pink
Noise. I wrote it up, walked it and the Aguilar DB751 Est Invoices to Jimbo’s office. No
more office copier, as it’s now been moved to the other building. I suggested I could
email the forms to him, which he liked. So, I’ll send these two over to his email address,
and when I get to it, the Expenses Invoices.

OK, now to see what this sounds like…I’ll close my door since that’s making noise. I’m
hearing low level noise on both channels, no signal applied, Master Volume CCW.
Where is the input on this module? Looking at a damaged module for reference. The
MPS A42’s and A92’s are double-diff pair in parallel. Input is following the input cap C2
2.2uF, junction of it, R3 39k & R4 5.1k. Then, following that are a pair of J112 muting
JFET’s, separated by a 2.7k resistor. I found the parts on the board, checked the DC
levels on the Amp side of things. The DC levels at each JFET was stable, not
fluctuating. I finally shut it down, discharged the supplies, then removed/re-installed the
6-pin I/O connector to the amp module a few times, exercising/wiping the contacts.
After that, the DC levels remain stable, and I’m not hearing low level fluctuation noise.

Putting the cover back on, as this seems to be ok again. I found two # 8-32 PHMS
missing on the bottom panel. My first attempt, using SEMS having split locks was too
tall, then unable to unthread one, I had to remove the top cover and use a 1/4” Open
End Wrench to hold the standoff that was being spun around by the screw. Replaced
those with some SEMS having ITL washers, and that solved the missing hardware
problem.

12/02/18

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3897 Bad Input Jack Start: 2PM Stop:3:45PM
Est Inv # 1289

Pulling the front PCB assemblies off to get at the broken jack. The threaded bushing
broke clean off the jack. Wonder if it could be glued back on with JB Weld (for later use,
of course).

I’ve replaced the input jack, but what I had to use didn’t have long enough threaded
bushing. I had to use a different nut, and alter the front mounting a bit, though I have it
installed. I’ll try gluing the original part back together when I get a chance. Now,
powering up the amp to see if I was successful or not.

I did at least change desoldering tips to 0.060ID, and the tool works just fine again, so
this past week’s efforts has been fruitful.

Everything is working, audio-wise. Running it in Bridge Mono now, to see if the fan will
kick on. I changed to 4 ohm resistive load instead of the speaker, which kicked up the
AC mains current draw to 4-5 Amps running. Fan then kicked on, so all is working. I
shut it down, in order to deal with the missing heat sink mounting screw on the front
right bottom. I had previously replaced the broken # 8 male-female stud/standoff, using
a nut, a # 8 screw shank, and a 5/16” # 8 standoff. I had to cut the screw shaft of a
black # 8-32 x 5/8” PHMS down to size, filed the end so it would thread into the
standoff, then added a split-lock washer, drove it home. So, now all is mechanically
secure.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3064 Prev Maint last svc’d 4/23/14 Start: 3:45PM Stop:4:30PM
Est Inv # 1292

Pulling top cover off to assess the mechanical issues first. The power transformer
mounting bolt was just loose, tightened up just fine without issues. Most of the
mounting hardware was tight. I did have to dig out the accumulated crud in the Philips
head pattern in order to remove the top cover. It powered up just fine, so I connected
the burst pink noise generator & speaker, and went thru all of the controls, both
channels in dual mono, and then in bridge mono. All of the controls were fine. Had to
re-install the gain control, as it was not aligned properly, and the Crossover knob was
pushed on too hard, so it didn’t turn easily. All functions work, amp sounds fine in both
dual mono and Bridge Mono. Changed from speaker to dummy load, 4 ohms, in order
to heat it up and verify the fan circuit works. It does, so all is working fine here. Put the
amp back together, and set it aside.

8/28/19

Eden WT 800 Asset # 3064 ‘Stereo Phone Jack? Start: 11:30AM Stop: 1:15PM
Est Inv # 1442
The Stereo Phone Jack bushing has been broken off, need to replace this Cliff Jack. I
don’t know what I have, though possibly the Patch Panel jacks can work there. Pulling
the top cover off, then removing the front panel PCB’s to get at the broken TRS jack.

I lucked out. While the form factor on the patch panel jack boards weren’t identical, the
spacing, terminal height relative to bottom of the jacks were the same, lead spacing the
same, so I was able to remove the old jack and install a replacement TRS jack. Getting
the LED’s on both the lower and upper boards to realign during re-assembly was the
usual PITA. There were NO 7mm flat washers under the heads of the mtg nuts, so I
added those.

Now, having first powered up the amp monitoring both output power amps’ DC levels,
everything came up nominal. Now, checking bias on the two power amps. The Left Ch
module looks ok, while the right channel module looks a bit low. Letting the amp warm
up before I adjust it. Reset bias on both channels. Plugged in the speaker, to give a
listen. At first, it sounded like I had a bad preamp tube, and installed a new one. Had to
exercise the Gain control a lot to get the signal quiet, and also had to back off the
mounting nut torque on the input jack, as plugging in with it fully tight was binding. Went
thru all the functions, and everything is working (though I didn’t check Bi-Amp mode.
Plugged in the bass, to see if I could get the limiter to work, which then worked ok.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3897 ‘Lots of Crackling’ Start: 1:15PM Stop: 2:15PM
Est Inv # 1443

Pulling top cover for starters. Rear panel Escutcheon bent on right rear upper corner,
straightened, though both left and right panel ends are no longer flush/bonded to
chassis.

Powered up ok, DC offset levels ok, both less than +/-25mVDC. Bias is low, so waiting
for the power amps to warm up before resetting bias levels. OK, bias has been reset.
The Left Ch module’s bias pot had to be exercised a bit so it would settle to the desired
level.

OK, on to the crackling issue. I’ve had this problem with the input jack’s cap ground
lead to chassis in the past. This amp, like the previous one, has the bent shield around
the input stage. In Bi-Amp mode, I wasn’t getting the LF amp (Rt Ch), so had to
exercise the BiAmp Switch for a good while until I had stable function in both positions.
Xover worked fine. After plugging in the bass, I had to inject spray into the Gain control
to tame the static noise in that control. Also tightened up the knurled round nut used to
lock that input jack down. Went thru all the controls, everything works. Only static
noise I was finding was from the gain control and the input jack, and tamed both after
tightening the jack nut.

Amp sounds fine. Put the cover back on, set aside.

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3061 Crackles a lot. Start: 2:15PM Stop: 4:30PM
Est Inv # 1444

Amp is in rack mount 2U road case, removing to bench. One of the rack ear mtg
screws is missing (#10-32 x 1/2” PHMS). Rt Ch heat sink mtg screw, top side is broken
off (#8-32 x 1/2” FHMS). Removed top cover, connected both output channels to DMM
to monitor DC output level while powering up, long with bias. Both channels bias level
is quite low, needing to warm up so I can reset them. DC offset levels appear to be
wandering a lot, not staying stable. I don’t see any AC Mains current fluctuation, and
the bias level isn’t wandering. Not sure why I’m reading that. Checking the reading of
these two HP 3467A channels with shorting plugs. Zero’d the two channels, then
watched. Instrument remains stable, reading 0.0000V. Re-connected the two amp
channels, and, the readings are real…..they are wandering; nothing greater than +/-
25mV. Just odd….I’ll have to fire up the scope/analyzer to have a look at the residual
noise on the two channels.

I had high ripple on the outputs. When I tried to deal with the tip/ground contact of the
input jack, I broke the jack, and had to pull the preamp PCB out to replace that jack,
which, of course, was a major PITA. I now have it back together, and just powered it
back up. Now, I do NOT have that high ripple pattern.

Plugged the speaker into the outputs, both working, then Bridge Mono, working. I’ve
run out of time to complete this, but, sonically, it’s now working fine, and the hum is
gone, no crackles.

8/29/19

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3061 Crackles a lot. Start: 10:30AM Stop: 11AM
Est Inv # 1444

Powering up, now that I believe I’ve found all the problems. Checked out with bass, all
working fine. Left it switched in Bridge Mono mode. Put top cover back on, added
missing cover screws, replaced rack mount screws. Upper right rack rail stripped, won’t
allow tightening.

I’m now just over 20hrs labor for August, and have the work on the Mesa Lone Star plus
the two Marshall JCM 900’s to add. I need more work from C/S to add to August’ labor!
Thankfully I got some decent hours/income via AuntieM this month.

The two Reverb tanks from Antique just came in (11:15AM). Checked across the street,
and NOTHING there. Waited for the Burbank Bus, and NO BUS (Sonya holed up
someplace playing games again!). I called the office at Ontario St, and, sure enough
package delivered to the WRONG address again!

I called the Guitar Dept to advise the Eden and Ampeg amps are ready, while waiting
for the reverb tanks for the two Marshall amps to be dropped off. Brandan will continue
pulling gear from the list, so he’ll send more gear over in a little while. Excellent,
assuming that happens.

Eden WT-800-c Auntie M Oscillates? Start: 11AM Stop:12:30PM Start: 1:15PM

The message on the case states the amp has to warm up for about 10 minutes, then
there will be a high pitch signal that goes to the cabinet tweeter. The amp was set in
Dual Mono (not Bridge nor Bi-Amp mode). The Right Ch module has
MJL21193/MJL21194 power xstrs (2 pair), while the Left Ch module has 3 pairs of
Toshiba 2SA1492/2SC386 parts. The Right Ch module may need to be
compensated….will have to check it at high current output, though the message seems
to indicate this occurs on its’ own. At the moment, I have no load.

The bias is low on the Left Ch, haven’t checked the Right Ch yet. DC offset is ok…both
less than 10mV. I trimmed both channels to 0V, so now the varying offset is much
lower. Also set the bias on both channels to 7.5mV. I have the speaker connected,
along with the analyzer/scope to it, waiting for this high pitch signal to appear. Thus far,
nothing.

Still nothing unusual, so, disconnecting speaker, attaching it to the dummy load, and will
drive the amps to full tilt to look for trouble signs (oscillation).

Under resistive loading, I did find a tiny bit of oscillation on the back half of the positive
peak on the Rt Ch module. I also found with 4 ohm load, I lost the positive half of the
waveform briefly, not at the 0-crossing, but above it. I’ve never seen that before. Also,
when driven into clip, the waveform shifts shape a bit, and, on the Rt Ch module, the
negative half peak looses it’s shape coming to the peak. The Left Ch module also shifts
when driven into clip, but differently than that of the Right Ch module. So, something
isn’t happy with the two pair of MJL21193/21194 outputs. They are slower parts.
The HT supply connection to the collectors of the drivers is odd. Fed from 6.8k
resistors, which have 5.6V/1W zeners to the output buss, bypassed by 1000uF/10V
caps, also with a 1N4148 diode across them. No backlash diodes like traditionally seen
rail to buss, back-biased. Does that just limit the voltage to the collectors 5.6V less than
the rails under full output swing? That may be where I see this funny clipping behavior.
The Eden is the only amp I’ve seen this method applied.

Now, just HOW do I go digging into this behavior? I don’t have any 2SA1492/2SC3856
xstrs to load the Right Ch up with, to make it like the Left Ch. And, WHAT would have
caused that brief loss of positive waveform that I saw? There’s NO current limiting
circuit in this amp. This also has TO-220 parts in place of the 2N3440/2N5415 voltage
gain stage xstrs, with heat sinks screwed on.

Eden WT-800-c Auntie M Oscillates? Start: 11AM Stop:12:30PM Start: 1:15PM

I’ll pull the Right Ch module for inspection, for starters. I see a lot of damage to the
power supply header, where I had to patch up the circuits to the header pins. Getting
Pin 1 V- all the way across the board is by way of a number of via’s from that one pin.

I wonder what the current is thru the voltage gain stage? The replacement xstrs for the
original 2N3440/2N5415 are MJE 340/350’s. There is still enough circuit pads left for
using the smaller power xstrs, such as the 2SA1492/2SC3856, or, for that matter,
MJW21193/21194’s. Would this circuit benefit from having more current thru the
voltage gain stage (decreasing the 100 ohm emitter resistors)? As well as decreasing
the emitter resistors of the two driver xstrs, which is flowing thru the first output stage,
rather than taking them directly to the output buss.
There’s a number of circuit peculiarities in this amp. It was this same channel that failed
hard on WT800-b earlier this month. It almost makes me want to recall that amp, and
put the two Left Ch modules together in one amp, and the two Right Ch modules
together in the other amp.
What would replacement amp modules cost? $300 each thru Full Compass Systems!
No thank you!

10/16/19

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3207 Broken Input Jack Start: 2:30PM Stop: 4:30PM
Est Inv # 1470

Pulling rack mount ears & top cover off. Then, I have to extract the lower preamp PCB
from the chassis in order to get at the broken input jack. Fun fun fun.

The middle front/rear #4-40 FHMS top cover screws have stripped, just spin in their
holes, and refuse to leave the chassis flange. I can’t get the top cover off!! I’ve been
working at that cover for half an hour with no solution! The screws just spin, and
applying tension from prying up the cover from the sides just locks up the screw, making
it unable to turn. I have my Erem Tip Cutters #94 along with X-acto knife blade trying to
pry it up, or grip the screw head and twist it out, but nothing is working. This top cover
will render the amplifier inoperable. The only solution I see now is to grind the four
screw heads off with the Foredom & Carbide burrs.

I’ve succeeded in removing the top cover, having ground off the screw heads,
but…..what’s left of the screws are still stuck in the threads, and I can’t pull/twist them
out, thus far. Using the Erem Tip Cutters as a gripping tool to pull/twist, trying to
engage the thread, but, it appears to be a useless battle. Sure like having that Foredom
grinder. What’s the solution here? It seems like I need a special clamp that can apply
centered thrust from below, while being able to grip what’s left of the shank/head from
above the threaded hole. I can’t think of any tool I own that does that.

I was able to clamp a 1/2” square aluminum bar to the underside of the flange, holding
the screw stuck in the threaded hole in place, then grind it flush. Used a broken Erem
cutter to grip the underside of the screw shaft and unthreaded it. Then, re-tapped the
holes for #4-40 again. Now, the back side is more complicated. The fan is in the way,
the bridge rectifier and the heat sink are in the way. What a complicated mess this
turned out to be!

Removed the heat sink, then the bridge, changed to a 1/4” square aluminum bar,
clamped it across the span between the fan and the end of the rear panel flange with
my machinist clamps. Then, went and ground the top side of the screws down flush
with the flange at both holes. Remove the bar and clamps, and finished by removing
the left-over screws with my broken Erem flush cutters type 778E. Still getting use out
of a quality tool, even though I snapped off upper half of one side of the cutters! Then,
ran the #4-40 tap thru the holes, and re-mounted the bridge and amp module.

Now, I can proceed ahead, as though I just removed the top cover!

11/18/19

Eden WT-800 Asset # 3207 Broken Input Jack Start: 11:30AM Stop: 1:15PM
Est Inv # 1470
Now pulling the front panel PCB’s up and out of the chassis, enough to replace the
broken input jack. Tedious operation, particularly when trying to re-install the upper EQ
board!

I removed a TRS jack from one of the patch bay modules in the bone yard, and got it
mounted. After finally getting the upper EQ PCB’s LED’s to align (only took 10 min this
time), everything works. Put it back together, added the necessary washers to the rack
ears. Put the amp back into the rack mount case, only to find the left side Rack Rail’s
mtg threaded holes are totally stripped out, needing a new 2U rack rail to be bought and
installed. I don’t have any here, so left note on the front cover, and set it aside, ready to
go out…..seems they have somebody over at the other building who can do that sort of
work. I’ll do it, but it will cost them more.