End of the Semester Assignment M.

Arch 2021

LESSER-KNOWN MONUMENTS OF LAHORE

ESSAY ON

CHAUBACHA AT DHARAMPURA (A kind of water storage and supply)

Submitted To
Dr. Shauqat Mahmood
Submitted By
Roma Dilsher (M.Arch-20-24)
Email: [email protected]
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

ABSTRACT

The architecture of Sikhs is mainly characterized by gurdwaras. Gurdwara is any place where a
copy of the Guru Granth Sahib is installed. Gurdwaras fall into two groups, with the Golden Temple
at Amristsar (Darbar sahib or Harmindar) distinct from either of them. First there is a community
gurdwara built by Sikhs for their religious and social needs. Then, better known are the historic
gurdawara. These are buildings erected on sites which are important in the history of Sikhism.
Chaubacha Sahib bus stop lies between Mughalpura and Dharampura by the canal flowing
through Lahore. Chaubacha Sahib the Gurdwara of Sri Guru Nanak Sahib Ji is situated in the
locality north of this bus stop. It is a spacious building. This historical gurdwara was built in 1885
during reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan by Baba Ram Rai, elder son of the Seventh Sikh Guru
Har Rai Ji. Guru Nanak washed his feet in a small pond on the place where this gurdwara is
situated.This is why, the place is considered sacred by the Sikhs. Many refugees families from Uttar
Pardesh and Madhya Pardesh are settled in this holy place now. The building is in a state of ruins
and access to Sikhs is denied.

FOREWORD
Starting with the name of that God, who made man as the best of all creations and gave him
consciousness such that he may heed to the creation. Peace and blessings upon all the Holy
Prophets and their progeny, by their thoughts and actions turned the wild man living in darkness
into a human being. History is defined as the mentioning of great people. Man has always
preserved his values, Manners and culture, victory and defeat, rising and falling and all such
stories and happenings. The dawn of history is full of lessons and graciousness. Man in his wild
life did not progress and continue to live in the state of tribes, that he would remember his
ancestors acts, it was the people who progressed that preserved history and considered it their
religious obligation; due to this history of the previous eras is present with us.

Out of the many monuments, some faded away with time while some others remain. Although in
Lahore, there are many monuments attributed to great people on which investigations and editing
remain on going. This is in its own, a new unique exploration. Although have been numerous
books written on the history of Lahore, but there has been little in-depth and detailed research in
relations to a single person and his monuments within Lahore. This historical research document
is on Sikhism’s religious lesser-known monument of Lahore:
Gurdwara Chau-bacha Sahib je Dharam Pura Lahore.

If one starts travelling from the canal-bridge of Dharampura, and keep walking along with canal
towards Mughalpura, there is a bridge on the right side which is known as Chau-bacha stop. The
area in front of that bridge is known as Chau-bacha sahib. In fact, Chau-bacha is a Persian word
which means a small pond, puddle or a pool which is filled with water. In addition, a small pond
which is used for water storage by washer-men is also called Chau bacha. The reason why the
name of this gurdwara is Chaubacha, is that the founder of Sikh religion Guru Nanak washed his
feet in this pond. There are many such gurdwaras in Pakistan which are famed like this.
This historical gurdwara was built in the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan by Baba Ram Rai,
elder son of the Seventh Sikh Guru Hari Rai Ji.
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

Google map of Gurdwara Chaubacha sahib

According to historical accounts, when Chaubacha sahib was built, the reign of Shah Jahan was
drawing to a close. Dara Shikoh, son o Shah Jahan had very friendly relations with sixth Guru
Hargobindi ji and seventh Sikh Guru Har Rai Ji.

In Sikhi pedia, Ram Rai’s story is mentioned like this:

‘Baba Ram Rai was the eldest son of seventh Sikh Guru, Guru Har Rai Ji. Guru Harikishan was the
youngest of Guru Har Rai Ji’s three children. Baba Ji’s sister Kaur was almost four years older than
him. After Aurangzeb had imprisoned his father and had finally wrested the Mughal throne away
from his eldest half-brother Dara Shikoh (who their father Shah Jahan had preferred as the next
Emperor), Aurangzeb was goaded, by members of his court, into accusing Guru Har Rai of lending
Dara Shikoh support. Aurangzeb demanded that Guru Har Rai make an appearance in Delhi.
Instead, Guru Sahib sent his eldest son, Ram Rai, to Delhi. Ram Rai was well received by
Aurangzeb. He not only satisfactorily responded to all of Aurangzeb’s concerns, but he also
impressed the emperor with his cleverness. As a result, Ram Rai was asked to stay on as a state
guest for some period.
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

One day, after prodding by some of the Ulema, Aurangzeb asked, why Guru Nanak had criticized
Islam in salok “Mitti Musalman Ki”? Ram Rai satisfied the assembled Muslims by saying that the
Line had been copied incorrectly and that the actual writing was correctly “Mitti Baimaan Ki” and
not “Musalman ki” as well written.

Though Ram Rai was well-blessed with all powers and strictly instructed only to explain Guru’s
position, but to sooth the mind of his host he chose to mis-interpret Guru Nanak’s writing,
something his father had instructed him was completely forbidden. Further, it has been said, that he
performed miracles for Aurangzeb’s pleasure.

Ram Rai je in Mature age (Painting)

When Guru Har Rai Ji heard of this incident, he forbade Ram Rai from ever returning home.
Guru’s word in Gurbani is absolute divine revelation and not subject to any modifications by
anyone. Miracles Although recognized by Sikh faith, are actively discouraged. Their exposition or
display is considered arrogance (competing with Vaaheguru’s powers).
Though Ram Rai managed to please Aurangzeb, Guru Har Rai Ji forbade all Sikhs from
Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

ever associating with Ram Rai. Because of this command, instead of Ram Rai, Guru Har Rai
declared Harikishan as Guru, who was the youngest brother of Ram Rai. It is reported that when
the courtiers told Ram Rai about the Guru-ship of his brother Harikishan, emperor Aurangzeb
suggested to invite Harikishan and have an arugument with Ram Rai. Because, Ram Rai knew
Harikishan is forbidden Ram Rai to engage in these kinds of dialogues, so he declined.

Gurdwara Holy Shrine of Baba Ram Rai je at Dehradun India.

According to Sikh historical accounts, Ram Rai made the Indian city of Dehradun his home.
Once, when he was meditating, his disciples mistook him for dead and set his body on fire. On
hearing this, Mata Punjab Kaur, wife of Ram Rai cursed them and told them that nothing will
remain of their legacy. That place was later turned into Samadhi of Ram Rai. The people who
considered Ram Rai as Guru were known as ‘Ram Rayyas’. It was developed into a separate sect
but was not very successful. It was because people accepted that Guru Har Dia disowned Ram
Rai and his followers.

According to Sikh narratives, Mata Punjab Kaur wife of Ram Rai wrote a letter to 10th Sikh Guru
Gobind Singh and told him about the death of Ram Rai. When Guru came to know of this
incident, he went to Dehradun and punished the disciples. It is reported in Sikh history that the
next Guru of Ram Rayya panth asked Guru Gobind Singh for forgiveness, abolished his Panth
(Refers to the entire society, community fellowship or religious body of Sikhs all around the
world), and joined mainstream Sikhism.
Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

Dera Bibi Punjab Kaur wife of Baba Ram Rai JE, P.C by Rahul Kala India.

Even now, some devotees of Ram Rai are still in Indian Punjab and have established three
gurdwaras naming Chau Bacha sahib.

Regarding this gurdwara, Pakistani researcher Mudassir Bashir has written an article in Daily
Express in which, he states that, Guru Nanak washed his feet in a small pond on the place
where this gurdwara is situated. This is why, the place is considered sacred by the Sikhs. One
hundred years after the death of Guru Nanak whose life spans from 1469 to 1539 AD, this place
was developed into Pooja asthan (place of worship) by Ram Rai, son of 7th Sikh Guru Har Rai.
Ram ji’s period was between the reigns of Mughal emperors Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. Ram
Rai’s younger brother Harikishan was the 8th Guru of Sikhs. The gurdwara built by Ram Rai
was outside Lahore city and was surrounded by agricultural lands.

When books were written on the history of Lahore during the colonial period, this gurdwara
was ignored. It seems that at time, many historical buildings in and around Lahore were in good
condition, that is why nothing was written about this gurdwara. If we travel from the canal
towards the inner inhabited area, this place is called bairoon (outer) Chau bacha. There is a
Gurmukhi inscription etched on the central gate of the gurdwara. (The word Gurmukhi is the
compound form of Guru and Mukh, however the word Gurukhi has been correctly used and
understood for the ‘holy utterances’ from the Guru Granth Sahib). Furthermore, Gurumukhi is
the name of the script used in writing primarily Punjabi and, secondarily, in the Sindhi
language.
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

Main Entrance gate of Gurdwara Chaubacha sahib at Dharam Pura Lahore, 2021

This place has been erected with the support of mahant charan das (samvat 1945). That gate was
the central entry point of gurdwara and was very splendid in the past. There were small topped four
gates of the gurdwara. After entering from the gate, there used to be a pond on the left side. This is
where is Guru Nanak washed his feet. From the right side of this pond, the door leading to the
worship place can be accessed in front of which a beautiful edifice of the worship place was
located. Around this place, there were rooms for pilgrims and priests. The elevation of the gate was
inspired by the Mughals. The surface decorations, is in the form of bas relief. Sikhs made the
exterior attractive by following the Mughals, they used pietra dura, motifs design based on vine
plants moldings. The construction material in Sikh architecture included brick, lime-mortar or
gypsum plaster and lime-concrete and stone (red stone and white marble). Goulding, while
explaining the dominant features of Sikh architecture describes “substantially Hindu”, overlaid
with Islamic Architectural details, blended without taste.
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

Marble plate on Gurdwara Chaubacha sahib at Dharam Pura Lahore.

Map shows the places where Guru Nanak Sahib visited during his life journey of life.

Iqbal Qaiser, a notable Pakistani historian in his famous book ‘the Sikh sacred places in Pakistan’
writes about Chau bacha sahib; ‘Gurdwara Chau bacha sahib is situated in the midst of
Dharampura, the famous canal of Lahore is also close by. The bus stop is in the north of Lahore.
The central gate of this place is wide and is divided into two upon entering. This is the entry gate
for the gurdwara. Similarly, there are four other doors at the four corners and the square building
is located inside these four gates. Each of these gates is topped with four small towers. In the
center, there is a pond made with burnt bricks in which Guru Nanak washed his feet. Along with
it, there is a worship place of Ram Rai. Many migrant families from Uttar Pradesh and Madhya
Pradesh shifted there’.
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

Inner view of Gurdwara Chaubacha sahib, Right Parkash asthan left Sarowar Building

Right, inside view of Parkash Asthan, Left, Outside view of Parkash asthan of Gurdwara

It is found in historical chronicles that this village was established by Guru Ram Rai, an Udasi and a
follower of Nanakpanth. Accompanied by Aurangzeb, he came to Lahore to meet Hazrat Mian Mir.
considering that this place was used by Guru Nanak for sitting and washing his feet, Ram Rai
settled there. At that time, the state Government was Muslims, so Sikhs found it difficult to take
water from them. It was because of the fact that, the pot that Muslims used to fetch water was made
of cow’s hide, so Sikhs and Hindus could not use it. He obtained the walking stick of Guru Nanak
from Mian Mir and used it to dig the well that was rendered dysfunctional. Owing to God’s
blessing, the water came out. Afterward, a wall and a place for worship was constructed. A few
years after that, Aurangzeb went to Delhi and became an emperor. Ram Rai also handed the
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

caretaking of the gurdwara to one of his disciples Shah Ji and went to Delhi. This area was settled in
1668. There is no land endowed to this gurdwara, but all the income generated from the village was
designated for gurdwara. The main gate and a boundary wall were constructed by Charan Das
(whose plate was found at the main gate but it is defaced now). In the beginning, Mahant Charan
Das used to run it, afterward Khalsa Sarkar took over and managed the gurdwara.

After entering the main gate, there was a room for Granth Sahib at the right side, in addition, there
was an old well which was closed when the street was constructed. If we move forward, the streets
spilled into right and left sides. In some houses, the basement at the level of the pond were jharokas,
and old windows. The arch-shaped niches are also found at some places. Although the old towers of
gurdwaras are not there anymore, their remnants can still be seen. In some houses, there are
palanquin- shaped walls.

The inner sections of gurdwara are converted into streets at many places. This building does not
bear resemblance to the gurdwara now. Currently, there is an open space at the place where main
worship place was situated, this place is known as Eid Gah now. The gurdwara’s ruins and walls
can be found surrounding it. The remnants of inner gates are still there while the towers that were
built on gates are destroyed. Out of four gates, two are in the last stage of decay, while the central
gate’s building is still intact to some extent which was built by Mahant Charran Das in 1942 samvat
(1885 AD). From outside, the small bricks indicate it to be an old building while the inner building
is totally occupied by people. These migrants are from U.P, M.P, Jalandhar and Hoshiarpur etc.
some 12 to fifteen years back, while people were digging a house for its reconstruction, a small
brass pot was found from the foundation. People thought that there might be some treasure in it, but
in fact, it contained the ashes of someone which buried there in the hope that it would be floated in
river Ganges. Along with it, there was a small brass tablet which contained a short Gurmukhi
inscription.

CONCLUSION:

This historical gurdwara needs immediate attention of the archeology department. Government
should look into this piece of history preserve it in a manner that is gives Pakistan a colour of
harmony and promote religious tourism. Almost all of the area that comes under the periphery of
this gurdwara has now been occupied by Muslim families as their dwellings. Most of the façade of
the gurdwara have greatly damaged by either defacing some of the depictions or white washing
them. The sanctity of the site is in the state of ruins now. Almost all the gurdwaras seem to have
been built during Mughal, Sikh and the British periods. The architecture has its own distinctive
style, which can be termed as Potohari architectural style. The domes of the Gurdwaras and the
arch openings all reflect vernacular evolution.
 Chaubacha at Dharampura (A kind of water storage and supply)

The picture shows the façade of housing being occupied by the Muslims

The main central courtyard of the Gurdwara which has has been used as a cricket ground by the users.

Entrance view of another house

REFERENCES

Research has been accomplished by sorting out these below mentioned resource
books and web links:

o Sikh Heritage beyond borders by Dr. Dalvir Singh Pannu

o Lost Heritage: The Sikh legacy in Pakistan by Amar deep Singh
o Hamara dharampura by Syed Faizan Naqvi
o The Sikh sacred places in Pakistan by Iqbal Qaiser
o https://journals.euser.org/files/articles/ejis_may_aug_17/Najma.pdf
o https://www.readings.com.pk/pages/BookDetails.aspx?BookID=1070606
o http://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_chaubacha_sahib_dharampur
a.html
o https://www.sikhnet.com/pages/who-are-sikhs-what-is-
sikhism?gclid=CjwKCAjwtpGGBhBJEiwAyRZX2tBB3FoVx0QxwCk7SlEHrrgsev-
y0CEVprPTaphJ2uWZdDA6LR7bNhoCs18QAvD_BwE