Extreme Service Manual - Hardwired

Service
Manual
E/One Extreme
Grinder Pumps
240V, 60 Hz • Hardwired Controls

Table of Contents
Page #
1. Service Manual Overview ...........................................................................3
2. Product Introduction
Hardwired: (DH, WH, IH, GH or UH) ................................................5
3. Troubleshooting (at panel, at EQD, site inspection)

Hardwired: (DH, WH, IH, GH or UH) ................................................6
Site Survey (Panel) ............................................................................6
Supply Voltage Checks ......................................................................7
Buck Boost Transformer ....................................................................7
Continuity Test...................................................................................9
Megohm / Insulation Integrity Test ...................................................12
Amperage Checks ..............................................................................12
Site Survey (Tank) .............................................................................13
Troubleshooting Charts ......................................................................13
Schematics .........................................................................................16
4. Core Removal/Replacement
a. DR, DH, DX ......................................................................................18
b. UH, WH, WX....................................................................................19
c. IH .......................................................................................................20
5. Start-up Procedure (inspection and testing on site) .................................21
6. Pump End/Grinder Mechanism (inspection/replacement of grinder, stator, rotor,

etc.) ................................................................................................................23
Removing the Pump Stator ................................................................23
Pump Stator Inspection ......................................................................26
Inspecting a Pump Rotor....................................................................28
Removing the Pump Rotor.................................................................29
Assembling the Pump/Grinder Mechanism .......................................30
Dry Well Pump Exploded View ........................................................31
Wet Well Pump Exploded View ........................................................32
Gator Grinder Pump Exploded View .................................................33
7. EQD Disassembly and Reassembly .............................................................34

EQD Disassembly ..............................................................................34
EQD Reassembly ...............................................................................35
EQD Retrofit ......................................................................................38
8. Top Housing Removal and Installation
a. Top Housing Removal and Installation (DR, DH or DX) ............39
Top Housing Removal .......................................................................39
Discharge Tube Removal ...................................................................40
Top Housing Reassembly and Installation ........................................42
b. Top Housing Removal and Installation (IH) .................................44

Top Housing Removal .......................................................................44
Top Housing Replacement .................................................................45
Top Housing Reassembly and Installation ........................................46
c. Power Cable Replacement ..............................................................47
9. Level Sensor (inspection/replacement of pressure switches,

equalizer, etc...)
Hardwired...............................................................................................50
Level Sensor Removal .......................................................................50
Level Sensor Test Procedure .............................................................51
Level Sensor Leak Troubleshooting & Repair ..................................52
Level Sensor Disassembly .................................................................52
Level Sensor Reassembly ..................................................................54
Equalizer Field Reset (Original Style) ...............................................56
Equalizer Field Reset (New Style) .....................................................58
Level Sensor Exploded View.............................................................60
10. Control Cavity

(DH, WH or IH) .....................................................................................61
Control Housing Removal .................................................................61
Motor Contactor and Controls ...........................................................64
Motor Cavity Water Test ...................................................................65
Motor Windings Test .........................................................................66
Control Bracket Installation ...............................................................66
Control Housing Installation ..............................................................67
11. Motor Cavity (disassembly and reassembly as well as testing) ...............68

Core and Motor Disassembly.............................................................68
Assembling the Core and Motor ........................................................72
12. Mechanical Seal Assembly (installation procedures) ...............................76
13. Final Tests (run test, amp draw test, etc.) .................................................77
Motor Cavity and Seal Assembly Leak Test .....................................77
Control Cavity Leak Test ...................................................................79
Test Run .............................................................................................81
Amperage Draw Test .........................................................................82
2
Chapter 1 — Service Manual Overview
This manual contains information about servicing, rebuilding, and troubleshooting the Extreme-
Series grinder pumps. A thorough understanding of these products will save you valuable time
when troubleshooting and repairing Environment One Grinder Pumps. This manual is
separated into different sections/chapters to make it easy to locate the correct information
quickly. This manual contains information specific to the hardwired model. Refer to the Index in
the back of the manual to locate the pages covering the specific subject you are looking for.
1. Service Manual Overview

2. Product Introduction
3. Troubleshooting (at the panel, at the EQD, site inspection)

4. Core Removal/Replacement
a. DR, DH, DX
b. UH, WH, WX
c. IH
5. Start-up Procedure (inspection and testing on site)
6. Pump End/Grinder Mechanism (inspection/replacement of grinder, stator, rotor, etc.)
7. EQD Disassembly and Reassembly
8. Top Housing Removal and Installation
a. Top Housing Removal and Installation (DR, DH or DX)
b. Top Housing Removal and Installation (IH)
c. Cable Replacement (DH, UH, WH & GH)
8. Level Sensor (inspection/replacement of pressure switches, control board, etc...)
9. Control Cavity
10. Motor Cavity (disassembly and reassembly as well as testing)
11. Mechanical Seal Assembly (installation procedures)
12. Final Tests (run test, amp draw test, etc.)
Safety Warnings
A Caution statement in this manual designates a situation that could cause equipment failure or
damage. Follow the proper safety procedures as described in the instructions.
A Warning statement in this manual designates a situation that can cause bodily harm and/or
equipment damage. Follow the proper safety procedures as described in the instructions.
3
Extreme Series Station Identification Chart
Each station name is made up several different identifiers (Ex: DH272):

D: D-Series (or Drywell)
H: Hardwired Level Control connection
27: Tank Style
2: Duplex station (or 2 pumps)
or for WR231:
W: W-Series (or Wet well)
R: RF (or Wireless) Level Control connection
23: Tank Style
1: Simplex station (or 1 pump)
In this manual you will see the pumps referenced as wireless or hardwired, as those are the
main differences regarding troubleshooting. You may also see chapters referencing pump
models [Ex.: (Chapter 2a) - Product Introduction (DR, WR, DX, or WX)] to let you know what
pump style the chapter is referring to. The X is for the explosion-proof model that has yet to be
released, but will contain an RF Level Control connection.
4
Chapter 2 — Product Introduction
Hardwired Models: (DH, WH, IH, GH or UH)
Environment One Grinder Pumps are designed to grind and pump domestic sewage. The
grinder pumps are not designed to be small lift stations. They are not capable of handling
waters with high concentrations of mud, sand, silt, chemicals, abrasives, or machine wastes.
Environment One’s semi-positive displacement, progressing cavity pumps provide predictable
flow over a wide variety of pressures. High–torque, low–speed motors power the pumps. The
unique one–piece core assembly is interchangeable throughout E/One’s product line. The
hardwired models are most similar electrically to the 2000-series pumps.
Basic Operation
The grinder pump is designed to grind and pump domestic sewage. The pump is a semi-
positive displacement, progressing cavity pump. The grinder pump consists of a pump
assembly with an integral sewage grinder and shredder device. The pump traps a column of air
in the sensing column for the on–off pressure switch. When water in the tank reaches the
normal turn–on level, the pressure in the sensing line closes the normally open electrical
contact points. The contactor/relay coil is energized and the relay contact points close,
providing electrical power to the pump motor. When the motor starts and runs, the grinder
pulverizes any solids. The slurry is then pumped by the pump rotor and stator until the liquid in
the tank is lowered to the shut–off level. This reduces pressure on the diaphragm of the on–off
switch, which opens the electrical contacts in the switch, opens the contacts in the contactor,
and removes power to the motor.
In the event of a pump failure or excessive in-rush of liquid, the liquid in the basin rises and
activates an alarm pressure switch. The electrical contacts close, activating the alarm indicator
(light and buzzer). The alarm alerts the homeowner about a pump problem. The pump is again
called on to run. The pump will attempt to pump the station down to the alarm off level.
5
Chapter 3 — Troubleshooting
Hardwired-Communicating Models: (DH, WH, IH, GH or UH)
Site information is vital to proper diagnosis of a pump failure, and getting the station back to
normal. When a pump requires service, an inspection of the site should be the first task
performed. The following procedure details the proper method for gathering the maximum
amount of data that can be collected during a service call.
Site Survey (Panel)
1. Observe the site
Record the following on the service tag.
a. Customer Information
b. Date
c. Time
d. What is the alarm status?
e. Is the pump running? (without opening the station)
2. Open the Panel
a. Is the panel dry and free of moisture?
b. Have any breakers tripped?
c. Was the panel correctly installed? (penetrations on bottom, sealed conduits, etc.)
d. Is any service needed to the panel?
Figure 3 – 1
6
Supply Voltage Checks
The Environment One grinder pump is equipped with a 1725 rpm, 1 hp, multi-tap 120V / 240V
motor. The operating voltage parameters of the motor are plus or minus 10% of the specific
application. This would equate to 108V to 132V in the 120 volt application and 216V to 264V in
the 240V application. The following are two charts for voltage checks for the two different
applications.
Supply Voltage and Breakers 240V (hardwired controls)
Normal
Color / Pin # Color / Pin # Operation If Reading is Wrong, Check:
Reading
Incoming
Voltage to Breaker Tripped or Off in Main Panel, Lost
L1 L2 216V – 264V
Breaker Leg of Power
OK
DBL Pole
Red 2 Black 3 216V – 264V Breaker Bad Breaker, Lost Leg of Power
OK
Incoming
Alarm Breaker Tripped or Off in Main Panel, Lost
Voltage to
Neutral Breaker 108V – 132V Leg of Power, Jumper Wire not
Breaker
(Incoming) Connected
OK
Alarm Alarm
Neutral Breaker 108V – 132V Breaker Bad Breaker
(Pump Side) OK
Voltage to
Loose Wire between Alarm Board and
Neutral Yellow 5 108V – 132V Alarm
Single Pole Breaker, Bad Alarm Board
Switch OK
Table 3 – 1
Buck Boost Transformer

240V Application
In the event that the supply voltage on a 240V application is 208V 3 phase, a buck boost
transformer will have to be installed. By failing to install the transformer you would be
significantly shortening the life of the motor. A buck boost transformer will typically manipulate
one leg of the supply voltage. It will raise the one leg approximately 32V (240V – 208V = 32V)
which would give you approximately 152V on one leg and 120V on the other combined to equal
240V.This is important to know because we are sharing one leg of the main supply voltage with
the alarm circuit which is a 120V circuit with an operating range of 108V to 132V. You must
connect the higher of the two legs to the pole of the double pole breaker that has the pump L2
(Black) wire tied to it. The pole with the pump L1 (Red) wire is the pole that is being shared with
the alarm breaker. Failure to connect the wires in this configuration will result in a high voltage
condition on the alarm circuit board subsequently resulting in failure of the circuits.
7
8
Supply Voltage and Breakers 120V (hardwired controls)
Normal
Color / Pin # Color / Pin # Operation If Reading is Wrong, Check:
Reading
Incoming
Voltage to Breaker Tripped or Off in Main Panel, Lost
Neutral L1 108V – 132V
Breaker Leg of Power
OK
Breaker
Neutral Red 2 108V – 132V Bad Breaker, Lost Leg of Power
OK
Alarm Breaker Tripped or Off in Main Panel, Lost
Voltage to
Neutral Breaker 108V – 132V Leg of Power, Jumper Wire not
Alarm OK
(Incoming) Connected
Alarm Alarm
Neutral Breaker 108V – 132V Breaker
Alarm Breaker, Bad Alarm Board
(Pump Side) OK
Voltage to
Neutral Yellow 5 108V – 132V Alarm
Single Pole Breaker, Bad Alarm Board
Switch OK
Table 3 – 2
Continuity Tests 120V & 240V (hardwired controls)
All continuity readings should be taken after the power is turned off and verified with a
voltmeter. With the pump power off, set an ohmmeter (Wavetek #5XP or equivalent) to the 2–
meg or 2000K ohm scale. All readings for the 120V application are done in the 2000K or 2M
scale except for those indicated otherwise. The meter must be in the 200K scale to read the coil
and alarm circuits. Auto-ranging meters must be manually set. Identify the wires coming from
the pump into the panel. All of the test points listed below refer to pump wires only and can be
tested at the panel or EQD. Allow at least 5 seconds for the meter to obtain a stable reading.
Note any incorrect readings on the service tag. Note: The ground to blue and ground to
yellow checks below are true for two relay configuration Simplex & Duplex Panels. Four
relay configuration Simplex boards, Protect & Protect Plus panels will show an open on
these checks whether in or out of water.
9
240V Continuity Checks
This table assumes the pump has shut off on its own or is not installed in a station.
Normal
Color / Pin # Color / Pin # Reading
Operation If Reading is Wrong, Check:
Bad Switch, wet EQD, mis-wired, plugged

On/Off Switch
Brown 1 Red 2 OL or Open sensing line, obstructed vent, restricted
off
breather tube
Brown 1 Black 3 0.001 Contactor Coil Bad Coil, wet controls
Supply cable cut, water in EQD or pump
Yellow 5 No short to
Brown 1 OL or Open controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate
Blue 6 push-to-run
the shorts.
Ground to Verify neutral is good on alarm board,
0.00 - Short
neutral feedback possible bad bulb or relay on board, Jump
Green 4 Blue 6 or closed
across alarm yellow to blue to check relay (Pump,
circuit
circuits buzzer and light should come on)
Brown 1 Supply cable cut, water in EQD or pump
No Shorts to
Green 4 Red 2 OL or Open controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate
Ground
Yellow 5 the shorts.
Water in EQD, Controls or Motor, motor

Green 4 Black 3 OL or Open Motor
field shorted to ground
Yellow 5 Blue 6 OL or Open Alarm Switch off sensing line obstructed vent, restricted
breather tube
Table 3 – 3
This table assumes enough water is in the tank to turn on the alarm.
Normal
Low water level, wet EQD, EQD

0.00 -
On/Off Switch unplugged, broken wire, mis-wired, bad
Brown 1 Red 2 Closed
on switch, sensing line leak or blockage,
Circuit
blocked vent, restricted breather tube
Brown 1 Black 3 0.001 Contactor Coil Bad Coil, wet controls
Yellow 5 No short to
Brown 1 OL or Open controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate
Blue 6 push-to-run
the shorts.
Verify neutral is good on alarm board, bad
Ground to
0.00 - Short bulb, possible bad relay on board, Safely
Yellow 5 neutral feedback
Green 4 or closed jump yellow to blue to check relay (Pump
Blue 6 across alarm
circuit should run & buzzer and light should
circuits
come on)
Brown 1 No Shorts to
Green 4 OL or Open controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate
Red 2 Ground
the shorts.
Water in EQD, controls or motor, motor
Green 4 Black 3 OL or Open Motor
field shorted to ground
0.00 - Bad Switch, wet EQD, mis-wired, plugged
Yellow 5 Blue 6 Closed Alarm Switch on sensing line obstructed vent, restricted
Circuit breather tube
Table 3 – 4
10
120V Continuity Checks
This table assumes the pump has shut off on its own or is not installed in a station.
Normal

Brown 1 Red 2 OL or Open On/Off Switch off sensing line, obstructed vent, restricted breather
tube
Yellow 5 Blue 6 OL or Open Alarm Switch off sensing line obstructed vent, restricted breather
tube
Green 4 Black 3 0.00 - Short Neutral Neutral is not connected
Red 2 No Shorts to
Green 4 OL or Open controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate the
Yellow 5 Ground
shorts.
Verify neutral is good on alarm board, bad bulb,
Ground to neutral
0.1 possible bad relay on board, Safely jump yellow
Green 4 Blue 6 feedback across
(200K Scale) to blue to check relay (buzzer and light should
alarm relay coil
come on)
0.5 Redundant Run
Brown 1 Blue 6 controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate the
(200K Scale) to Alarm Return
shorts.
OL or Open Redundant Run Cut cable, wet EQD or controls, stuck manual
Brown 1 Yellow 5
(200K Scale) to Alarm Send run switch
Black 3 .400
Brown 1 Contactor Coil Bad Coil, wet controls
Green 4 (200K Scale)
Table 3 – 5
This table assumes enough water is in the tank to turn on the alarm.
Normal
Low water level, wet EQD, EQD unplugged,
0.00 - Short or broken wire, mis-wired, bad switch, sensing line
Brown 1 Red 2 On/Off Switch on
Closed Circuit leak or blockage, blocked vent, restricted
breather tube
0.00 – Short or
Yellow 5 Blue 6 Alarm Switch on sensing line obstructed vent, restricted breather
Closed Circuit
tube
Green 4 Black 3 0.00 - Short Neutral Neutral is not connected
No Shorts to
Green 4 Red 2 OL or Open controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate the
Ground
shorts.
Ground to Verify neutral is good on alarm board, bad bulb,
Yellow 5 0.1 neutral feedback possible bad relay on board, Safely jump yellow
Green 4
Blue 6 (200K Scale) across alarm to blue to check relay (buzzer and light should
relay coil come on)
Yellow 5 0.5 Redundant run to
Brown 1 controls, unplug EQD and retest to isolate the
Blue 6 (200K Scale) Alarm
shorts.
Black 3 .400
Brown 1 Contactor Coil Bad Coil, wet controls
Green 4 (200K Scale)
Table 3 – 6
11
Megohmmeter / Cable Insulation Integrity Check
1. Separate EQD’s and disconnect the Tray Cable wires from the Alarm Panel.
2. Using a 500V Megohm meter, check for shorts between all wires.
Good Marginal Bad
500M or higher Between 200M & 500M Below 200M
3. If the EQD is wet, the housing will have to be dried and the insert replaced.
4. If shorts are found, remove the EQD insert from the cable and perform test again.
5. If shorts go away, then replace the insert and perform test again.
6. If shorts do not go away then the Tray Cable will need to be replaced.
Amperage Checks
The use of a clamp on amp meter can be helpful in identifying problems such as a
restricted/blocked discharge line, blown Stator, faulty Check/Anti-siphon valve, etc...
1. Set the clamp-on amp meter to the appropriate scale.
2. Hook the probe around the Black power lead in the alarm panel.
3. With the power on, fill the tank until the pump operates, or depress the push to run
switch in the panel.
4. Read the current directly. Refer to the following table for troubleshooting.
Amps @ 240V Head
PSI GPM Comments
(@ 120V) (ft)
4.9 (9.8) or less 0 0 0 Worn Stator
5.6 (11.2) 10 24 14 Normal
5.8 (11.6) 20 46 13 Normal
6 (12) 30 70 12 Normal
6.2 (12.4) 40 92 11 Normal
6.5 (13) 50 115 10 Normal
6.8 (13.6) 60 138 9 Normal
7.1 (14.2) 70 161 8 Normal
7.4 (14.8) 80 184 7.5 Normal
8 (16) or higher 90+ 207+ varies Plugged Discharge Line or bad bearings
over 15 (30) 0 0 0 Jammed Grinder or Shorted Motor
Table 3 – 7
The figures shown are averages and meant to be used for approximation since motors, voltages
and amp meters vary. The table displays a comparison of back pressure (psi), flow (GPM),
current draw (amperes) and head (feet of water pressure). By knowing the current draw, you
may discover a restricted or blocked discharge line, blown pump Stator, high head operation,
etc.
A jammed grinder may trip the circuit breaker or cause the overload protector to cycle. This
causes the pump to cycle on and off, and eventually results in an alarm condition. A torn or
worn out pump stator results in a “runs but does not pump” condition and eventually, as the
water rises, causes an alarm. Replace the Stator and, if necessary, the Rotor.
12
Site Survey (Tank)
1. Open the Tank and Inspect
a. Is the station above grade?

b. Is the tank/access way flooded?
c. If yes, where did the water enter?
d. Was the EQD below water?
e. Is the equalizer hung properly?
f. Are there signs of any other infiltration?
2. Disconnect the EQD and Inspect
a. Is the EQD Dry?
b. Is the EQD assembled correctly?
3. Repeat the power-off Continuity Checks at the EQD.
Troubleshooting Charts
The following troubleshooting tips will help diagnose more frequent causes of some
grinder pump problems.
Alarm On – Pump Running but not Pumping

Possible
Troubleshooting Steps
Causes
Blocked Check the amperage. If the amperage is high (8 amps or higher),
Discharge Line, turn off the pump and check the discharge line for blockage.
Worn Stator or Confirm that the pump has not been damaged by disconnecting the
leak in pump discharge piping and recycling the fluid in the tank. Turn the pump
discharge power on and check the amperage. If the amperage remains high,
assembly replace the pump and return the failed pump to shop for possible
repair. If amperage returns to normal, clear blockage in discharge
line and re-check amperage.
If the amperage is low (4.9 amps or less), the pump must be pulled
and the Stator (and possibly the Rotor) replaced, or the leaking
discharge line repaired. The cause of the Stator and/or Rotor
failure must be determined and corrected before reinstallation or
the pump will fail prematurely again. Chapter 6 – Pump End,
describes how to identify and correct causes of Stator and Rotor
wear.
Table 3 – 8
13
Alarm On — Pump not Operating
Possible
Causes
Incorrect Voltage
Check the voltage at a location nearest the pump, such as the
junction box or electrical quick disconnect (EQD) plug. The correct
voltage is listed on the pump nameplate. Note: Voltage must be
within 10 percent of nameplate voltage (240V: 216 to 264V; 120V:
108V to 132V). 208V requires a transformer to boost voltage.
Plugged Check the Equalizer Tube connected to the Equalizer and make
Equalizer sure that it isn't crimped or pinched.
Low Fluid Level
Check the tank for sufficient fluid to operate the pump. Insufficient
fluid may indicate a problem with the alarm wiring, the alarm
sensing line or the alarm switch. Chapter 7 – Level Sensor and
Chapter 8 Control Cavity, describes the process for checking the
alarm wiring and controls.
Wet or Corroded Inspect the electrical controls. Replace any wet or corroded
Controls controls. See Chapter 8 – Control Cavity.
Inoperative
Test the controls as described in Chapter 8 – Control Cavity
Control
Table 3 – 9
Alarm Activates Frequently

Possible
Causes
High Flow The incoming flow is greater than the pump can handle. Infiltration,
a sump pump, a hot tub or any other device that causes excessive
water flow can cause high flow.
Plugged Vent or Check the Vent and the Equalizer Tube. A plugged or partially
Equalizer Tube plugged Vent or Equalizer Tube will cause the alarm to activate
frequently. Replace the Equalizer Tube if kinked or damaged.
Level Sensor Pull the pump out of the tank. Inspect the Level Sensors for cracks
Leak and debris; use Level Sensor test to check for leaks.
Line Blockage or Check the amperage. If the amperage is high, look for a line
Worn Stator blockage. If the amperage is low, inspect the Stator for excessive
wear.
Underground Check the Tray Cable wiring for cuts, breaks and shorts. Use a
Wire Damage Meg-Ohm Meter to check for shorts between each pair of leads.
Replace the Tray Cable if a short is found.
Table 3 – 10
14
Noisy Pump
Possible
Causes
Normal The pump may be grinding up material. Wait a few minutes. If the
Operation pump does not quiet down, remove the core and clean the basin.
Low Voltage
Check the voltage level. The voltage is listed on the pump
nameplate. Note: Voltage must be within 10 percent of nameplate
voltage (240V: 216V to 264V; 120V: 108V to 132V). 208V requires
a transformer to boost voltage.
Blocked
Discharge Check the amperage. If the amperage is high (8 amps or higher on
240V or 16amps or higher on 120V), turn off the pump and check
the discharge line for a blockage. Confirm that the pump has not
been damaged by disconnecting the discharge piping and recycling
the fluid in the tank. Turn the pump power on and check the
amperage. If the amperage remains high, replace the pump and
return the failed pump to shop for possible motor repair. If it returns
to normal, clear discharge and re-check amperage.
Damaged Stator Check the Stator for holes or tears. Chapter 6 – Pump End,
describes the pump stator inspection procedure.
Worn Motor Remove the pump Stator and hand–rotate the shaft. If the shaft
Bearing turns roughly, replace the pump. Return the failed pump to the
shop and replace the motor bearings as described in chapter 11.
Table 3 – 11
15
Wiring Schematic for 240V Hardwired
16
Wiring Schematic for 120V Hardwired
IS THIS THE
PUMP WIRING TO
USE WITH DUP
PROTECT? IS
THERE A
CONTACTOR I
THE DUP
PROTECT THAT
STAYS
ENERGIZD AND
ANOTHER
CONTACTOR IN
THE BASIN (IE
CONTACTOR
BELOW)?
WHERE DO
THESE WIRES
GO? ARE THEY
THE SAME AS
THE LARGE
BROWN AND RED
BELOW (TEE'D IN
WIRE TRAY?)
17
Chapter – 4a Core Removal/Replacement
DR or DH (Dry Well versions)

1. Open the control panel and shut off all power, going to the pump and the alarm system.
2. Open the lid to the station.
3. Disconnect the EQD. If the Tray Cable side EQD is wet or has moisture in it, then the
EQD insert must be replaced and the source of moisture determined and corrected
before connecting a new pump to it.
4. Close the stainless steel ball valve, which is done by using the core wrench. The core
wrench has a bent handle on one end of it. Take the bent end and insert it into the hole
on the handle of the valve and push down, so the handle is now horizontal. The valve is
now closed.
5. Now use your core wrench and turn the bolt in the middle of the top housing 1/3 turn to
the left to release the holding tabs.
6. Utilizing the rope attached to the pump, pull the pump out of the station (the pump
weighs approximately 100lb). Note: DO NOT pull the pump out of the station by the
discharge tube, equalizer tube, or the power cable.
7. Lower the new pump into the tank
8. Now use your core wrench and turn the bolt in the middle of the top housing 1/3 turn to
the right to engage the holding tabs.
9. Utilizing the core wrench, open the valve.
10. Perform start up as described in Chapter 5.
18
Chapter - 4b Core Removal/Replacement
UH or WH (Open Wet Well Versions)

1. Open the control panel and shut off all power going to the pump and alarm system.
2. Remove the lid to the station.
3. Disconnect the EQD. If the Tray Cable EQD is wet or has moisture in it, then the EQD
insert must be replaced and the source of moisture determined and corrected before
connecting a new pump to it.
4. If the unit is equipped with a slide face valve then close the slide face discharge, by
lifting up on the handle to close the valve. Pull the slide face, with the discharge hose
connected to the pump out of the discharge assembly; this is usually done with a long
piece of PVC pipe with a 1” female threaded coupling on the end of it.
If the unit is equipped with a ball valve, close the valve and loosen the compression nut
on the discharge hose.
5. Utilizing the rope attached to the pump, pull the pump out of the station (the pump
weighs approximately 100lb). Note: DO NOT pull the pump out of the station by the
discharge hose, equalizer tube, or the power cable.
6. Install new pump into station.
7. Connect the discharge hose to the valve and open the valve.
8. Perform start up procedures as described in Chapter 5
19
Chapter – 4c Core Removal/Replacement
IH (Indoor Units)
1. Open the control panel and shut off all power, going to the pump and the alarm system.
2. Push the handle down, on the inlet pipe gate valve, and close the valve.
3. Close the discharge ball valve.
4. Loosen the compression nut on the single union ball valve (be careful not to lose the o-
ring); otherwise the ball valve will hold the pump in place.
5. Remove the eight bolts that secure the pump to the tank.
6. Lift the pump out of the tank (the pump weighs approximately 100lb). Note: DO NOT
pull the pump out of the station by the discharge tube, equalizer tube, or the power
cable.
7. Install the new pump into the tank using a new gasket.
8. Secure the pump with the eight bolts.
9. Connect the single union ball valve. Make sure that the o-ring is in place before securing
the compression nut. Be careful not to over tighten the compression nut!
10. Open all valves and perform start up procedures as described in Chapter 5.
20
Chapter 5 – Start-Up Procedure
Station Inspection
Check:
1. Proper burial depth (1 to 4 inches below the hinged cover/transition joint).
2. The ground must be graded away from the unit to prevent the water from
pooling around it.
3. Damage free, leak free.
4. The Equalizer Tube/Power Cable must be hung at the top of the station and
not lay on the core.
5. Electrical shroud must be attached.
6. The Tray Cable must not be exposed outside unit.
7. Check the discharge valve in the station to make sure it is open.
8. Make sure that the supply cable connector beneath the cover shroud is
tightened securely.
Panel Inspection
Check:
1. Proper wiring (see the wiring diagram in the panel).
2. Damage free.
3. Unshielded wires must not be exposed outside of panel.
4. Conduits must be sealed.
5. Test incoming line voltage. If the voltage varies more than 10 percent of
nameplate voltage, do not continue! Rectify the voltage problem.
Voltage, Continuity and Cable Insulation Integrity Test

Refer to the pertinent Voltage and Continuity Tables in either Chapter 3 to perform
voltage and continuity tests. Refer to Chapter 3 for the Cable Insulation Integrity
Test.
Read all meter instructions for safety information, scale setting, and proper
operational procedures.
Always perform continuity checks with the power off! Use your volt meter to assure
that there is no power applied to the pump circuits.
21
Test points are taken in the alarm panel. The colors listed in the tables are the leads
coming from the station and connect in the panel. Using the tables, perform the
checks to assure that you are getting the appropriate readings. The values listed
are the average numbers you should read on your meter.
Give the meter at least 5 seconds to obtain a correct reading. The meter may give a
false reading while bleeding off to an open circuit. This is the impedance of the wire
bleeding off and is expected.
If the tests do not pass, unplug the EQD in tank and repeat test at the alarm panel,
then at the pump EQD. The EQD pin numbers are listed with the corresponding wire
colors in the tables. This will help narrow down where a problem is located. Note:
Green (4) to Yellow (5) and Blue (6) must show infinity or open line when testing at
the pins in the pump EQD.
Run Test
This test assumes that the station has enough water to operate the alarm and that all
discharge lines and valves are open. Any problems found during startup are to be
noted on the start–up sheet. This includes problems that are repaired during startup.
When a problem is repaired, the date, type of repair and repairperson should be
noted.
1. Test the voltage going to the pump at the panel; it must be within 10 percent
of the nameplate voltage (240=216 to 264 and 120=108 to 132). If it is not, do
not continue. Rectify the voltage problem.
2. Turn on the alarm breaker and verify that the alarm is activated.
3. Silence the horn.
4. Clip Amp meter onto the Black Wire of the Tray Cable.
5. Turn on the pump breaker.
6. Amperage should be between 5 and 8 amps at 240 volts (10 and 16 amps for
120–volt units). Higher amperage indicates higher pressure. Over 8 amps at
240 volt (or 16 amps at 120 volt) could indicate a plugged or closed line. If
you experience a high amperage reading shut pump off immediately and
rectify the problem.
7. Once the alarm turns off, the pump will run for about 1 minute depending
upon the size of the tank.
8. After the pump automatically turns off, turn off the power to pump and the
alarm.
9. Perform the out of water or pumped down continuity checks.
22
Chapter 6 – Pump End/Grinder Mechanism
Removing the Pump Stator

1. Remove the retaining clips from the bottom of the Level Sensor.
2. Lay the pump core on its side. Support the Motor Head on a 4 x 4 wooded block.
3. (If Applicable). Remove the wire stand from the pump core. There is a hole in the
Suction Housing that a 1/8” punch can be used in to aid the removal of the wire stand.
Figure 6 - 1
23
4. Remove the four Inlet Shroud retaining screws using a 5/16 nut driver and pull the Inlet
Shroud off of the Shredder Ring
Figure 6 – 2
5. Remove the Shredder Ring by gripping it with a pair of vice grips. Strike the vice grips
with a hammer while pulling straight out from the pump. Replace the Shredder Ring if it
is cracked, broken or worn.
Figure 6 – 3
24
6. Remove the Cutter Wheel by placing a plastic mallet, punch or drift on one of the
paddles and striking the mallet, punch or drift with another hammer. Repeat this process
until the Cutter Wheel spins free. The Cutter Wheel is threaded onto the Armature Shaft
with a conventional right hand thread. If the Cutter Wheel is difficult to loosen, apply
penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes. Never strike the cutter bars with a metal
hammer or punch. Replace the Cutter Wheel if it is worn out of round. If more than 1/32”
is rounded off of the edge of the cutter bars, replace the Cutter Wheel.
Figure 6 – 4
7. Remove the four bolts (7/16 inch wrench or socket) that secure the Suction Housing to
the Motor Head and remove the Suction Housing.
Figure 6 - 5
25
8. Slide the Stator and Liner off of the Rotor. The Liner may be inside of the Suction
Housing. The Liner must be removed and replaced when the Stator is replaced. The
Liner protects the Stator from wearing against the Suction Housing.
Figure 6 - 6
9. Inspect the Stator for wear. The next section describes types and causes of wear. It is
important to determine the cause of the wear or the pump will fail again. The average life
of a Stator is 10 years.
Pump Stator Inspection
Three types of Stator wear can cause pump failure: a tear or hole in the Stator, worn lobes or a
swollen stator. Each type of Stator wear is discussed below.
Tear/Hole in the Pump Stator
A hole or tear in the Stator is caused by a blockage in the discharge line. If the pump runs for a
long period of time against a blocked line, the high pressure (approx. 150 PSI) in the pump
cavity will rupture or tear the Stator.
The blockage must be cleared before the pump is put back into service. Check the discharge
line for a plugged line, closed valve, frozen valve or bad Check/Anti-siphon valve.
Worn Lobes
Examine the lobed area in the center of the Stator. Normally, the rubber lobes are rounded at
the high points; worn lobes are flattened at the high points. On flattened lobes, the texture of the
worn rubber is either smooth or rough.
Stator lobes that have worn rough display one or more of these characteristics:
• Wear looks rough and loose pieces of rubber hang from the lobes.
• Rubber is stuck in the lower valley between the lobes.
• The rubber is soft or has hard spots on it.
• Worn lobes display surface cracks resembling weather-checking on an old tire.
• The Rotor has rubber stuck to it.
26
Lobes Worn Smooth
Old age is the most common reason for smooth wear. The average life of a Stator operating in
a single–family home (300 GPD) is about 10 years. Higher incoming flows will shorten the life of
the Stator. If two homes are on the same station, the Stator will last about five years. However,
if the Stator has worn prematurely (less than six years for a single–family home), abrasives
cause the wear.
Look into the void between the inner skirt and the outer bore of Stator. Check for an
accumulation of more than 1/8 inch of any of these types of materials: sand, goldfish stones,
gravel, kitty litter, glass, etc.
Determine and eliminate the source of the abrasives or the Stator will fail prematurely. Check for
infiltration from a broken line, a sump or even a roof drain. Additionally, ensure that the
homeowner is not introducing the abrasive materials through a toilet or sink.
Lobes Worn Rough
A pump that has run dry is the most common reason for lobes that have worn rough. To
determine the cause of a pump running dry:
1. Check to see if the Equalizer Tube is plugged.
2. Check the tank vent. Make sure the vent is clear and properly installed.
3. Check the sensing line to ensure it is clear. Visually inspect the sensing line for blockage.
4. Check for an obstruction at the suction end of the pump (Inlet Shroud).
An obstruction will restrict the flow. Check for objects such as a board, junction box cover,
heavy glove or plate.
5. Inspect and troubleshoot the electrical controls. Refer to Chapter 10.
6. Check the push–to–run/redundant run circuit. Check the push–to–run circuit for all units
with this feature.
7. Check for Shorts. Look for shorts in the Panel, Tray Cable, EQD and Control Compartment.
Two wires touching, corrosion or water can cause shorts. Refer to Chapter 3.
Swollen Pump Stator

Presence of a petroleum–based product such as paint thinner, photo-developing chemicals,
gas, oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc. will cause a swollen pump stator; introduction of
these types of products into the system must be eliminated or the problem will reoccur. The
pump Stator is made of EPDM material, which absorbs petroleum the way a sponge absorbs
water. If the pump Stator appears to have no wear but will not pump liquid, compare it to a new
Stator. Slide the old Stator over the pump Rotor and remove it. Slide the new Stator over the
Rotor and remove it. If the new Stator fits tighter or if the old Stator appears larger than the new
one, the pump Stator needs to be replaced.
Note: Never intentionally add petroleum based-products to a public sewer system but if they are
present, contact your local distributor and ask for an oil-resistant stator, service part number
8005. This stator is not recommended under normal residential conditions because of reduce
life expectancy (average of 2 to 3 years).
27
Inspecting a Pump Rotor
The pump Rotor has a life expectancy of about 15 years. Besides old age, the following can
cause Rotor wear:
• High flow (business, industry or infiltration)
• Abrasives
• Pump running dry
The Rotor does not have to be removed from the motor shaft for inspection. When inspecting
the Rotor, do not worry about scratches, lines, casting marks or pit marks. Check the high,
rounded lobes that spiral the length of the Rotor. If the lobes have been worn flat into a ¼ inch
or wider band, the Rotor is worn and must be replaced.
Figure 6 - 7
28
Rubber found on the Rotor indicates that the pump has run dry. Rubber can be cleaned with
acetone, paint thinner or other petroleum cleaner. Inspect the Rotor for excessive wear and
replace it if necessary. If unsure, replace the Stator and Liner and perform a flow check. Flow
should read about 14 GPM at 15 PSI. Run the pump allowing the discharge to flow into a 5
gallon bucket. Filling the bucket at 15 PSI should take about 23 seconds.
Removing the Pump Rotor
1. To avoid bending the Armature Shaft, support the end of it with a wooden block.
2. Use a hammer and a 1/8” punch to remove the groove pin that retains the Pump Rotor.
Figure 6 – 8
3. Slide the Rotor off of the shaft. If the Rotor sticks, use a plastic mallet to tap the end of
the Rotor until it comes off. Be careful not to bend the Armature Shaft.
Note: Do not disturb the Mechanical Seal. String–like fibers and other debris around the seal
are normal. If the seal bellows is moved on the shaft, it will create a leak path and flood the
motor cavity. The Mechanical Seal should only be replaced at a repair shop and only during a
total overhaul of the pump motor.
29
Assembling the Pump/Grinder Mechanism
To assemble the pump/grinder:

1. If the Rotor was removed, slide the Rotor over the armature shaft, compressing the seal
spring. The spring washer may need to be aligned with the shoulder of the Armature Shaft.
Press the groove pin into place with channel lock pliers. Lubricating the groove pin will help to
ease the installation. Do not use a hammer to beat in groove pin; doing so may bend the
Armature Shaft.
2. Install the new pump Stator and Liner over the Rotor. The Rotor or internal bore of Stator
should be lubricated with a small amount of silicone grease; most new Stators are lubricated at
the factory. Ensure the lip of the Stator is uniformly seated in the Motor Head groove.
3. If not already done, remove the old pump Liner from Suction Housing.
4. Install the Suction Housing. Tighten the bolts diagonally to maintain housing alignment with
the Armature Shaft. Failure to align properly will cause the Cutter Wheel to hit the Shredder
Ring.
5. Apply a small amount of Anti-Seize to the threads of the Armature Shaft and hand– tighten
the Cutter Wheel onto the shaft. Do not over tighten the Cutter Wheel; it will be difficult to
remove the next time the unit is serviced.
6. Seat the Shredder Ring in the Suction Housing assuring that the four notched ears are
properly aligned with the four threaded holes. Set with a rubber mallet or hammer and a block of
wood. Do not strike the Shredder Ring with a steel hammer. Start with one side, maintain
pressure on it and drive the opposite side into place. Ensure the Shredder Ring is seated all the
way around.
7. Rotate the Cutter Wheel to ensure it does not interfere with the Shredder Ring.
8. Install the Inlet Shroud. Tighten the four screws diagonally
9. Reinstall the core. Be sure to open all the valves on the discharge plumbing before turning on
the power. Verify that the voltage and amperage readings are correct.
30
31
32
33
Chapter 7 – EQD Disassembly and Reassembly
Note: (Do not use Teflon Paste on Cord Grip threads that screw into the EQD
housing.)
EQD Disassembly
1. Loosen the compression nut on the cable fitting.
Figure 7-1
2. Loosen the four screws that retain the insert in the EQD housing.
Figure 7-2
34
3. Slide the EQD housing down the Power Cable.
4. Remove the wires from the EQD insert by loosening the six retaining screws.
Figure 7-3
EQD Reassembly
1. Slide the EQD housing (with cable fitting installed and compression nut loose) over the
power cable.
2. If you are changing the Tray Cable side, then install the water tight grommet onto the
wires. Be sure to keep the tapered side toward the cable jacket, not the cable end.
Taper
Figure 7 - 4
35
3. Insert the wire ends of the Power Cable into the EQD insert, assuring proper pin number
and wire color alignment shown below:
EQD,PIN# Wire Color Function

1 Brown Manual Run
2 Red L1
3 Black (240V L2) or (120V Neutral)
Green w/yellow
4 stripe Ground
5 Yellow Alarm power Feed
6 Blue Alarm power return
Figure 7 – 5
4. Tighten the six setscrews. Make sure the wires have been stripped back 1/4” to 3/8” for
proper installation.
Figure 7 – 6
36
5. Tighten the four connector screws into the EQD housing.
Figure 7 – 7
6. Tighten the compression nut on the Cord Grip.
Figure 7 – 8
37
EQD Retrofit (2000-Series to Extreme Series)
1. To seal the core bolt inserts in the tank transition, install the (6) foam pads onto the
underside of the new top housing. There are flats on the underside to guide you.
2. With the power off, loosen the screws on both sides of the 2000-Series EQD.
3. Unplug the EQD.
4. Remove the four screws at each corner of the insert. Loosen the packing nut and push the
cable through the housing.
5. Disconnect the six leads from the insert by loosening the set screws.
6. Cut the old stripped portion of the cable off.
7. Slip the old EQD housing and compression fitting off the cable
8. Slip the Extreme Series EQD housing with new compression fitting installed over the cable.
Do not use pipe sealant on the compression fitting threads - damage will result!
9. Trim outer jacket back by 2-1/4”. Strip the (6) individual wire leads 1/4” to 3/8”. These
stripped lengths must be followed closely to ensure the proper installation.
10. Install the water block grommet over the (6) conductors, inserting the wires into the
numbered side, see Figure 7-4.
11. Connect the individual wires to the electrical insert as indicated in the table below:
Pin 2000 Series Extreme

Function
# Color Color
1 Red Brown Manual Run
2 Black Red L1
L2 (neutral on
3 White Black
120V)
Green
4 Green Ground
(w/ yellow stripe)
5 Orange Yellow Alarm Feed
6 Blue Blue Alarm Return
12. Tighten the set screws, see Figure 7-6.

13. Slip the EQD housing down to the electrical insert.
14. Tighten the four corner screws (you should be compressing the water block grommet into
housing), see Figure 7-7.
Be sure to start each screw before completely tightening
15. Tighten the compression fitting packing nut, see Figure 7-8.
EQD Retrofit (200-Series to Extreme Series)

Note: Please order the permanent conversion kit (ND0059G01) and follow the
enclosed instructions.
38
Chapter 8a – Top Housing Removal/Replacement
DR, DH or DX
Top Housing Removal
1. Loosen candy cane compression nut and slide candy cane away from Check/Anti-
Siphon valve.
Figure 8a – 1
2. Loosen and remove the four Top Housing bolts.
Figure 8a – 2
39
3. Spray the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube with soapy water and lift Top Housing off the
top of Control Compartment. You will need to slide Power Cable and Equalizer Tube
through the grommets as you are doing this.
Figure 8a – 3
If the Top Housing is to be replaced, then perform the following:
Discharge Tube (Candy Cane) Removal
1. Remove the o-rings from the discharge tube.
Figure 8a – 4
40
2. Bend and remove the split washer.
Figure 8a – 5
3. Remove the compression nut by positioning it at an angle and knocking it off with a
plastic or rubber mallet.
Figure 8a – 6
41
4. Remove the discharge tube from the Top Housing.
5. Remove the cable clips that hold the Equalizer Tube and Power Cable together and
separate the two.
6. Remove the Equalizer from the Equalizer Tube.
7. Remove the EQD Assembly as described in Chapter 7 and pull the Equalizer Tube and
Power Cable completely through the Top Housing.
Top Housing Reassembly and Installation
1. Remove the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube grommets from the Top Housing. Push a
fish tape, rope or solid wire through the hole where the grommets were.
Figure 8a – 7
42
2. Using tape, attach the Power Cable (EQD end) to the guide wire. Pull the cable up
through the Top Housing. Do the same for the Equalizer Tube.
Figure 8a – 8
3. Slide the grommets back onto the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube, using soapy
water as a lubricant.
4. Seat the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube grommets into the Top Housing using a
small flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to tear the grommet.
Figure 8a – 9
5. Reinstall the Top Housing onto the Control Compartment Casting with the four bolts
and four new Nyloc nuts and tighten them in an X pattern to 120 in/lbs.
43
Chapter 8b – Top Housing Removal/Replacement
IH
Top Housing Removal
1. Remove the four bolts that retain the Check/Anti-Siphon Valve to the discharge elbow.
Figure 8b – 1
2. Loosen and remove the four Top Housing bolts.
Figure 8b – 2
44
3. Remove Power Cable/Equalizer Tube restraint and separate the Power Cable and
Equalizer Tube. Lift the Top Housing and Check/Anti-Siphon valve off the top of control
compartment as one assembly. You will need to slide cable and Equalizer hose through
the Cord Grips as you are doing this, so loosen the compression nuts.
Figure 8b – 3
Top Housing Replacement
1. Unthread Check/Anti-Siphon Valve from PVC discharge elbow.
2. Disconnect the Power Cable from the Alarm Panel.
3. Unplug Equalizer Tube from the Equalizer.
4. Remove the retaining clips from the Equalizer Tube and Power Cable and separate the
two.
5. Slide the remainder of the Equalizer Tube and Power Cable through the top housing.
6. Remove the Cord Grips and grommet from Top Housing (discharge, Equalizer Tube and
Power Cable).
45
Top Housing Reassembly and Installation
1. Install discharge grommet into top housing.
2. Install discharge elbow into discharge grommet.
3. Thread discharge elbow onto Check/Anti-Siphon Valve and tighten making sure to align
it with the guide slots towards the inside of the top housing.
4. Reattach the Equalizer Tube to the barbed fitting on the Level Sensor.
5. Install Cord Grips for Power Cable and Equalizer Tube.
6. Push the Power Cable and Equalizer Tube through their respective Cord Grips starting
from the bottom side of the top housing.
7. Pull the Equalizer Tube and Power Cable through the Cord Grips while installing the Top
Housing and aligning the Check/Anti-Siphon Valve onto the two retaining pins.
8. Tighten the Cord Grips compression nuts.
9. Install and secure the four Top Housing bolts, using four new Nyloc nuts, and tighten in
an X pattern.
10. Install the four bolts and secure the Check/Anti-Siphon valve to the discharge elbow.
11. Reconnect the Power Cable to the Alarm Panel.
12. Re-install the Equalizer.
13. Secure the Equalizer Tube to Power Cable using retaining clips.
46
Chapter 8c - Cable Replacement
(DH, UH, WH & GH)
Cable Removal
1. Remove top housing. Refer to Chapter 8a for DH Model.

(Follow instruction for top housing removal and replacement)
2. Remove the level sensor. Refer to Chapter 9.
3. Remove the split ring compression nut from the Control Housing.
Figure 8c – 1
4. Refer to Chapter 10 to remove the Control Housing.
5. Disassemble the Level Sensor. Refer to Chapter 9.
47
Cable Installation
1. Make sure that the threads in the Control Housing are clean and free of debris (using a
M32 x 1.5 bottom tap (Service #4209) will assure that the threads are clean and free of
debris).
2. Apply Loctite 598 generously to the bottom of the strain relief over-mold and insert the
wires through the cable entry.
Figure 8c – 2 Figure 8c - 3
3. While inserting the cable into the Control Housing, spread the 598 onto the threads of
the cable entry so they are completely coated and then install a new split nut onto the
cable.
Figure 8c – 4 Figure 8c – 5
48
4. Tighten the split nut while making sure that the Level Sensor portion of the cable is pointed
towards the opposite side of the cable entry area and wipe off any excess 598 that may
have squeezed out.
Figure 8c – 6
5. To wire the controls refer to chapter 10 then go to Control Bracket wiring directions.
6. Put the Control Housing back on the Motor Housing. Refer to Chapter 10.
7. Be sure to air test the control compartment. Refer to Chapter 13.
8. Connect the wires to the level sensor and reassemble it. Refer to Chapter 9.
9. Perform the Level Sensor Pressure Test. Refer to Chapter 9.
10. Connect the EQD to the cable. Refer to chapter 7.
49
Chapter 9 – Level Sensor
Hardwired Models: (DH, WH, IH, GH or UH)
Level Sensor Removal
NOTE: NEVER USE Teflon Paste on the threads of the Cord Grip (Power
Cable) or the threads of the Barbed Fitting (Equalizer Tube) that are connected
to the top of the Level Sensor (or any plastic part on the pump), as damage could
occur! ONLY USE Loctite 598 on the threaded portions!
To Remove the Top Housing for the DH model, refer to Chapter 8a. To remove
the Top Housing for the IH model, refer to Chapter 8b. For WH, GH or UH
models, loosen the two rope hooks and move them out of the way of the Level
Sensor.
1. Disconnect one side of each of the Level Sensor retaining clips. Spread the columns
apart and push upward to remove the Level Sensor.
Figure 9 – 1 Figure 9 – 2
50
Level Sensor Test Procedure
The Level Sensor assembly must be leak tested before disassembly and after
reassembly using the method described below.
To perform the Level Sensor Test, you will need the following tools: a Digital Monometer,
an Isolation Valve with a T or Y fitting, a Hand Pump or Regulated Air Source, a Stop
Watch and three pieces of Tubing. These items are available in kit # NB0158G01.
Figure 9 - 3
Test Procedure
1. The configuration above is a field or shop configuration. You can also use a
regulated air source into tube #1 for a shop configuration.
2. Connect the three pieces of tubing to the pump or regulated air source, the
monometer and the level sensor assembly in the configuration shown above.
3. Pressurize the level sensor assembly to 82” – 90”of water column (in air)
(approximately 3 psi).
4. Close the isolation valve.
5. After 40 seconds, record the monometer reading.
6. After another 30 seconds, record the monometer reading again.
7. Subtract the last reading from the first reading.
8. The results must be no more than .5” of loss for hardwired assemblies
manufactured before 8/25/09 or serial #353742 and no more than .1” for units
manufactured after 8/25/09 or serial #353742 and all wireless assemblies.
51
Level Sensor Leak Troubleshooting & Repair
If a substandard result occurs, then the following procedures need to be

followed to determine where the leak is occurring and how to repair the
Level Sensor Assembly.
1. While the assembly is under pressure (82” – 90” of water (in air)), spray
soapy water or leak detector around the liquid tight cord grip, the barbed
fitting, and the joint between the two assembly halves.
2. If a leak is detected around the liquid tight cord grip, disassemble the
assembly, replace it and retest the assembly after reassembly.
3. If a leak is detected around the barbed fitting, install a new fitting and retest
the assembly.
4. Lay the LSA on its side and spray soapy water so that it runs over the column
hole in the bell area to see if it is leaking passed the switches.
5. Check for leaks on the test assembly.
6. If you cannot determine the exact location of the leak, replace the entire
assembly.
7. If any of the methods above are unable to eliminate the leak, replace the
entire assembly.
8. Before re-installing the equalizer tube onto the barbed fitting, snip ½” of the
tubing off to ensure a good seal.
Level Sensor Disassembly

1. Loosen the four Philips head screws that hold the Level Sensor assembly together (Fig 9-
3), pull the two columns apart and separate them (Fig 9-4).
52
2. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the Pressure Switch Retainers from both sides
of Level Sensor (Fig 9-5) and then remove the flag terminals from the switches (Fig 9-6).
3. Remove the old On/Off switch (Fig 9-7) and then remove the old Molded Radial Seal (Fig
9-8). Note: The seal will also stick in the Alarm side.
4. Clip the old flag terminals off the wires, loosen the Cord Grip compression nut, pull the
cable out (Fig 9-9) and then remove the old Alarm switch (Fig 9-10).
Figure 9 - 10 Figure 9 – 11
53
Level Sensor Reassembly
Make sure that the inside of the two Level Sensor halves and the seal rim are dry
and clean before reassembly.
NOTE: If you are using a cordless drill or screwdriver, use one of the lowest
torque settings or damage may occur.
1. If the barbed fitting or liquid tight cord grip is being replaced, put a fine bead of Loctite 598
on the threads before installing them into the assembly.
2. Lubricate (Dow 111 Grease) the o-rings on the new switches (Fig 9-12), and then install
them (On/Off in the equalizer barbed fitting side and the Alarm in the cable entry side).
Install a new Molded Radial Seal on the On/Off side and lubricate (Dow 111 Grease) the
exposed surface (Fig 9-13).
54
3. Feed the cable through the Cord Grip (Fig 9-14), reinstall the compression nut and tighten it
(Fig 9-15).
4. Install new flag terminals (Part # 7115) and reconnect the wires: (On/Off) Red to pin 1 and
Brown to pin 3, (Alarm) Yellow to pin 1 and Blue to pin 3. (Fig 9-16). Note: Flag terminals
must be crimped with a flag terminal crimper only (Part # NA0237P01 or equivalent).
Reinstall the Switch Retainers (Fig 9-17).
5. Put the two halves together (assuring that wires are not in the way) and install the four
screws being careful not to over tighten them (Fig 9-18). Note: Perform the Level Sensor Test
Procedure.
Figure 9 – 20
55
Equalizer Field Reset (Original Style)
NOTE: Environment One does not recommend opening the original style
equalizer as it is delivered from the factory.
In the event that the equalizer diaphragm is thought to be collapsed, you should
disconnect the equalizer tube from the equalizer itself. If the problem goes away then
you should inspect the equalizer diaphragm. If the problem persist then the equalizer
diaphragm is more than likely not collapsed. If the equalizer diaphragm is collapsed,
then the following procedure can be used in the field to reset the diaphragm.
1. Using your fingers, carefully pry the equalizer apart at the snaps. Do not use a
screwdriver or any other tool to pry the snaps. If you are unable to pry it apart
with your fingers, then a factory new equalizer needs to be installed.
2. Remove the collapsed diaphragm, clean and dry it, and reshape it to the neutral position.
Neutral or Natural State
56
3. Align the mold number on the diaphragm to the hanger on the base. Install the
diaphragm onto the base shell and ensure that it is completely seated.
Note: make sure that the inside of the base shell is clean and dry before reinstalling the
diaphragm.
4. With the logo upright, set the cover on the base evenly and center the cover snap to the
base hanger. Press the cover only until the snaps engage or damage may occur. Inspect
all four snaps to ensure that they are fully engaged.
Logo Upright
57
Equalizer Field Reset (New Style)
In the event that the equalizer diaphragm is thought to be collapsed, you should
disconnect the equalizer tube from the equalizer itself. If the problem goes away then
you should inspect the equalizer diaphragm. If the problem persist then the equalizer
diaphragm is more than likely not collapsed. If the equalizer diaphragm is collapsed,
then the following procedure can be used in the field to reset the diaphragm.
1. Gently pry the inspection cover from the front of the Equalizer Assembly using a medium
sized screwdriver.
2. If the Equalizer Tubing is not already removed, remove it. Grab the diaphragm of the
equalizer, and slowly withdraw it completely out.
58
3. Push the diaphragm back into its neutral position and look for any signs of water coming
out of the nipple that the Equalizer Tubing attaches to. If water comes out, the Level
Sensor Assembly switch compartment will have to be inspected.
4. Snap the inspection cover back into place on the front of the Equalizer Assembly and
reattach the Equalizer Tubing.
Logo Upright
59
60
Chapter 10 - Control Cavity
Hardwired-Communicating Models: (DH, WH, IH, GH or UH)
Top End Disassembly and Level Sensor Removal
Refer to Chapter 8a for DH Top Housing removal, refer to Chapter 8b for IH Top Housing
removal, and refer to Chapter 9b for WH/GH/UH Level Sensor removal.
Control Housing Removal
1. Once the top and Level Sensor has been removed and set aside, loosen and remove
the air release plug with a 3/16” hex key.
Figure 10– 1
2. Install the control cavity air test fitting and pressurize the control cavity to 5 PSI, using a
regulated low pressure line or hand pump.
3. Test for leaks around the o-ring joint and compression nut connection using soapy
water. Submerging this assembly at this point may find leaks more easily. (Note: it may
take several minutes for trapped air to clear)
61
4. Using a ½” deep-well socket and a ½” wrench, remove the three retaining bolts from the
Control Housing.
Figure 10 – 2
5. Break the seal and start lifting the Control Housing with two flat head screw drivers or
pry bars. Pry upward until the Control Housing is free, using caution not to pull the wires
apart from the Control Bracket Assembly.
Figure 10 - 3
62
6. Hang the Control Housing on the Motor Housing by inverting it and hanging it on guide
pin.
Figure 10 – 4
Troubleshooting Controls
1. Inspect the internal components for signs of corrosion, moisture and/or damage.
Figure 10 – 5
63
Motor Contactor and Controls
The motor contactor has ten screw type terminals that hold leads. Terminals A1 and A2 are the
coil. Terminals 1/L1, 3/L2, and 5/L3 are the line side of the contacts and terminals 2/T1, 4/T2
and 6/T3 are the load side of the contacts. When the On/Off Switch or manual run energizes the
coil, the contacts close and run the pump.
To test Motor Contactor Operation:

1. With the power off, verify that the Control Bracket is wired correctly and is properly
seated into the motor housing.
2. Check the continuity across 1/L1 and 2/T1, and then check across 3/L2 and 4/T2, and
then 5/L3 and 6/T3. If they read “closed” (000 or short), replace the contactor. If they
read “open” (1 or OL), proceed.
3. Connect a jumper wire from A2 (coil) to 1/L1 (contact).
4. Plug the pump into a power source. Check nameplate for proper voltage.
5. Turn the power back on. The contactor should engage and transfer L1 power across to
the motor. If the pump does not run then check the voltage across the contacts, the start
components and the motor windings.
Motor Start Switch

The motor start switch is mounted to the Control Bracket and has three spade terminals.
Terminals 1 and 3 are attached to a coil; a reed switch runs inside the coil. When the pump
motor is energized, a magnetic field is created that engages and disengages the start winding.
Terminal 2 energizes the start winding through the capacitor.
Note: the Control Bracket must be removed to access the Start Switch
Control Bracket Removal

1. Remove the red wire from 1/L1.
2. Remove the black wires from A1.
3. Remove the brown wire form A2.
4. Remove the two retaining screws using hex wrench.
5. Remove the red wire from the capacitor.
6. Remove the yellow and grey wires from the start switch.
7. Remove the blue motor winding wire from 2/T1.
8. Cut the black wire between the motor and thermal at the butt splice.
To test the switch:

1. Remove the orange wire from the capacitor before testing.
2. Connect a continuity tester between Terminals 1 and 3. It should read a short or closed
circuit; if not, replace the switch.
3. Connect the tester between Terminals 1 and 2 or Terminals 3 and 2. It should read an
open circuit. If not, replace the switch.
64
Motor Capacitor
The motor capacitor is located in the center of the Control Bracket and has two terminals.
Located across the two terminals is a bleeding resistor that bleeds off any unused, stored
current. One terminal runs to the start switch; the other connects to the motor start winding. The
capacitor gives the motor a voltage boost while starting.
To test the capacitor:

1. Hold the insulated handle of a screwdriver and short the two terminals to bleed off any
remaining current.
2. Use a continuity tester to check between the two terminals. It should show a short and
slowly bleed off. If not, reverse the leads. If there is still no reading or the reading does
not bleed off, replace the capacitor.
Note: The motor capacitor may also be tested by checking for proper Microfarad
reading.
Thermal Protector
The thermal protector keeps the motor from running too long above its rated amperage,
preventing possible motor or pump damage. This is an auto–reset switch; two wires are
permanently attached to the protector on the normally closed contacts.
A second thermal is wound into the windings of the motor and protects the motor from
overheating. If the motor goes above the preset limits, the thermal protector will cut the power to
the pump until it cools down. Both thermal switches will automatically reset themselves.
The motor thermal switch is not replaceable.
Motor Cavity Water Test
1. While the controls are removed, remove the ground screw and install the air test fitting.
2. Pressurize the compartment to 5 PSI.
3. Turn the assembly upside down and remove the hose from the test fitting. Look for water
escaping from the motor cavity. If water is noted, the motor will need new bearings and
the windings will need to be cleaned, dried and tested.
65
Motor Windings Test
1. Perform motor winding resistance check per chart below to verify motor condition.
Motor Field Winding Resistance

Meter Wire
Good Motor Resistance Bad Motor Resistance
Setting Combination
200 Black/Red 1.5 - 2.5 ohms Infinity
200 Black/Gray 1.5 - 2.5 ohms Infinity
200 Yellow/Blue 1.5 - 2.5 ohms Infinity
200 Yellow/Black Infinity Any Reading

Ground/All motor Any reading; possibly water in
2000K or 2M Infinity
leads motor. Dry windings and retest
Ground/All motor
Megger leads
500M or higher Below 500M
Table 10 – 1
Wire Color Function

Black Run/Start windings and internal thermal protector
Blue Run Windings
Gray Run Windings
Yellow Run Windings
Red Start Windings
Orange Jumper lead (120V units Only)
Table 10 – 2
Note: While you have all of the wires disconnected between the Control Bracket, the Power
Cable, always replace the two O-rings on the Motor Casting before you rewire the Controls.
Use Molycote 55 Grease on the Motor Housing and the Motor Head O-rings. Use Silicon
Grease on all other O-rings.
Control Bracket Installation (240V)
1. Connect the cable ground wire to the chassis and connect the proper wires to the start
switch before installing the bracket.
2. Refer to the wiring road map on page 11 of Chapter 3 for the correct wiring
configuration.
Control Bracket Installation (120V)
1. Connect the cable ground wire to the chassis and connect the proper wires to the start
switch before installing the bracket.
2. Refer to the wiring road map on page 12 of Chapter 3 for the correct wiring
configuration.
66
Control Housing Installation
1. Unhook the Control Housing from the Motor Housing.

2. Slide the Control Housing back onto the Motor Housing being sure not to pinch or crimp
any of the wires. Note: The air release plug must be removed to install the Control
Housing onto the Motor Housing.
3. Reinstall the three bolts and use three new Nyloc nuts to secure the Control Housing.
4. Perform the Control Cavity leak test as described in Chapter 13.
5. Apply Loctite 598 generously to the threads of the air release plug and install it. Smear
the excess 598 over the plug after it is installed (apply more 598 if necessary to cover
the plug).
Reinstall the Top Housing on the DH model as described in Chapter 8a. Reinstall the Top
Housing on the IH Model as described in Chapter 8b.
67
Chapter 11 – Motor Cavity
The following conditions require major repair:
Defective or shorted motor
Worn seal or bearings
Flooded motor
Major repairs must be performed in a shop equipped with the correct tools and clean facilities
for proper repair and testing. Any time a pump is rebuilt, all seals, O–rings, gaskets, bearings,
pump stator and pump liner should be replaced. Clean the core thoroughly before all major
repairs.
Major Repair and Rebuilding
Core and Motor Disassembly
1. If working on a DR or DH model, remove the Top Housing as described in Chapter 8a.
2. If working on an IH model, remove the Top Housing as described in Chapter 8b.
3. Remove the Level Sensor as described in Chapter 9.
4. Remove the Control Housing and Controls as described in Chapter 10.
5. Remove the Anti-Siphon valve by removing the four bolts and lifting it off the discharge
elbow.
6. Disassemble the pump end as described in Chapter 6, but leave the rotor on.
68
7. Using a ½” deep-well socket and a ½” wrench, remove the four bolts holding the Motor
Housing to Motor Head.
Figure 11 - 1
8. Turn the pump assembly upside down on a bench. Be careful not to pinch the motor
wires between the motor casting and the surface that you are working on.
9. Remove the Motor Head from the Motor Housing by using two pry bars.
Figure 11 – 2
69
10. Once the two castings separate, lift the motor head assembly out of the motor by the
shaft.
Figure 11 – 3
NOTE: If the upper bearing remains in the motor bearing bore, the freeze plug will have to
be removed and the bearing punched out. A new freeze plug will have to be installed.
Figure 11 – 4
70
11. Remove the pump rotor. To avoid bending the Armature Shaft, support both ends of it
with wooden blocks. Use a hammer and a 1/8” punch to remove the grooved pin that
retains the pump rotor.
Figure 11 – 5
12. Remove the Armature Shaft from the Motor Head. It may require that you hold the
Armature Assembly from the upper bearing and tap the cutter wheel end of the shaft on
a piece of 4 x 4 block. The motor head will drop off the lower bearing and land on the 4 x
4 block.
NOTE: If the lower bearing remains in the motor head bearing bore, it will have to be
punched out.
Figure 11 – 6
13. Remove and discard the old bearings.

14. Remove and discard the old Mechanical Seal from the Motor Head.
71
Assembling the Core and Motor
NOTE: If the motor was wet or flooded, perform the following procedures before
reassembling the unit.
Motor Drying Techniques
NOTE: Before you dry the motor, you should clean it with a mild detergent such as Dawn
Dishwashing Detergent. Soft brushes can be used with caution to not damage the insulation
on the windings. Inspect the windings for varnish flaking off due to overheating. Look for
burn marks in the windings and in the plastic insulators inside the motor field.
The best method would be to bring the temperature of the motor above water boiling
temperature (212o F or 100o C) for about two hours.
1. Place the motor into an oven at 250o F for 2 hours.
Other methods would be to bring the motor above room temperature for a longer period of
time (at least 4 hours or more). The idea is to keep it above room temperature for an extended
period of time so the moisture will evaporate.
Note: Do not get any of the devices described below, too close to the opening of
the motor castings or you could cause damage to the windings. Temperatures
above 311o F will cause damage to the windings insulation! There again the idea
is to evaporate the water that still remains in the windings.
2. Hang a heat lamp with a 300 watt bulb 1’ from the opening of the motor casting for at
least 4 hours.
3. Lay the casting down and put a space heater that has a fan about 1’ from the opening
of the motor casting for at least 4 hours.
4. Use a heat gun with a stand and place it no closer than 1’ from the opening of the motor
casting for at least 4 hours.
5. Use a hair dryer on a stand and place it no closer than 1’ from the opening of the motor
casting for at least 4 hours.
6. If it is a nice warm sunny day, stick it directly in the sun on the pavement for a day.
Once the motor is clean, dry and cooled down to room temperature, test the motor windings
resistance. Refer to Chapter 10, page 6 for the Motor Field Winding Resistance chart.
You will also need to meg the windings to ground! A good reading should be between 500M
and 1000M at 500 Volts.
Note: If the motor winding has failed, it does not need to be removed. The new assembly
(1288) contains a winding installed into a motor housing.
Before assembling, clean all machined surfaces including the Motor Head, Motor Housing,
the bearing bores, and seal bore. Surfaces must be clean and free of rust.
72
1. Press the new upper and lower bearings onto the Armature Shaft.
2. Set the Motor Head on the Suction Housing or place on a bench with a hole for the
Armature Shaft to penetrate. Install new Radial Seals and lubricate them with Molycote
55.
Figure 11 – 7
3. The upper and lower bearings or bearing bores will need to have Loctite 641 applied to
them. NOTE: Only apply the Loctite 641 to one surface (the bearing race or the
bearing bore)
73
The Loctite 641 can be applied in different manners as shown below. You can use a
sponge tip applicator to apply a thin even coat around the entire surface that you are
applying it to (Figure 11 – 8), or you can apply it with a nozzle tip applicator. NOTE: If
you are applying the Loctite 641 with a nozzle type applicator, apply a fine bead to the
leading edge of the surface that you are applying it to (Figure 11 – 9). In other words,
if you are applying it to the bearing race, apply it to the portion of the race that will
enter the bearing bore first, and if you are applying it to the bearing bore, apply it to
the area of the bore that will come into contact with the bearing race first when it is
being installed.
Figure 11 – 8
Figure 11 – 9
74
4. Install the armature assembly into the motor head.
Figure 11 – 10
5. With the Motor Housing upside down on the bench, place the Spring Washer in the top
bearing bore...Lift the Motor Head/Armature Assembly by the Motor Head. Grasp the
Armature Shaft below the Motor Head and turn it upside down. Carefully slide the
assembly into the Motor Housing making sure that you align the Discharge Elbow on the
appropriate side. Evenly tighten the bolts and four new locknuts in a cross pattern to 140
in/lb.
Figure 11 – 11
6. Assemble the Mechanical Seal as described in Chapter 12.
7. Perform Motor Cavity air tests as described in Chapter 13.
75
Chapter 12 – Mechanical Seal Assembly
The Mechanical Seal is a carbon/ceramic type with spring bellows. The seal kit (PT# 1208)
consists of the ceramic portion, carbon portion/spring bellows, and a tube of Pac–Ease,
instruction sheet, (7) lock nuts and (4) main sealing o-rings. The seal is easily installed with the
motor turned upside down or lying on its side with the pump end facing the installer. Replace the
mechanical seal only during a motor overhaul. Do not replace the mechanical seal in the field or
as routine maintenance. Be sure to install the new motor head and control compartment o-rings
when reassembling.
Installing the Mechanical Seal
a. Ensure the pump cavity, seal bore and Armature Shaft are clean and grit free. Wash
seal installation tool (PT#4028) and hands before proceeding. Cleanliness is very
important during seal installation. Proceeding quickly to avoid the lubrication from drying
is also necessary; otherwise, a failure may occur.
b. Carefully remove the ceramic portion of the seal from the package. Lubricate the o-ring
with Pac-Ease or clean, soapy water, handling the seal by the edges. Do not
contaminate the smooth face of the seal. Slide the seal over the armature shaft,
grooved side facing the motor head. Using the seal installation tool, press the ceramic
portion of the seal into the seal bore. Do not twist or turn the tool, as this may cut the o-
ring.
c. Lubricate the bellows on the carbon portion/spring bellows portion with Pac-Ease or
clean, soapy water. Slide over the armature shaft (carbon face first) and press on with
the seal installation tool. Use a steady push and take care not to “slam” the two faces of
the seal together.
d. Install the pump rotor immediately. Install the groove pin with channel lock pliers.
e. Rotate the motor shaft to help seat the seal.
f. Proceed with the Motor Cavity and Seal Assembly Leak Test in Chapter 13.
Figure 12 - 1
76
Chapter 13 – Final Test Procedures
The following test procedures must be performed prior to reinstalling the grinder pump. Failure
to test the unit can result in core flooding or a damaged unit.
Leak Tests
Leaks detected by these tests must be repaired before performing other tests or
installing a unit. After the leak testing is complete, perform the remaining test
procedures. Leaks must be repaired before performing other tests or installing the unit
for use.
Motor Cavity & Seal Assembly Leak Test

This leak test must be performed any time the Motor Housing or Mechanical Seal
Assembly has been disturbed or if the controls have been flooded. This test will ensure
no leaks exist between the Motor Head and Motor Housing and between the Mechanical
Seal Assembly and the motor cavity.
1. If the Check/Anti-Siphon Valve is not already removed, remove it using ½” socket or

wrench.
Figure 13 - 1
77
2. Install the air test fitting into the ground screw hole and the two control bracket screws
into their holes.
Figure 13 – 2
3. Place the pump into a 5 gallon bucket with enough water in it to cover the Motor
Head and Discharge Elbow.
4. Pressurize the motor cavity to 5 PSI with a regulated low pressure line or hand pump
and look for bubbles. Bubbles from the Discharge Elbow indicate a seal leak and
bubbles from around the Motor Head/Motor Housing joint indicate a Motor Housing O-
ring leak.
Figure 13 - 3
78
5. If this test is being performed on a unit during disassembly, turn the assembly
upside down and remove the hose from the test fitting. Look for water escaping
from the motor cavity. If water is noted, the motor will need new bearings and the
windings will need to be cleaned, dried and tested.
6. Bleed off the air pressure before reassembly.
79
Control Cavity Leak Test
The core must be completely assembled in order to perform this test. This test is also performed
before disassembly to check for leaks.
1. Pressurize the control cavity to 5 PSI, using a regulated low pressure line or hand pump.
Spray soapy water on fittings and joint. Look for bubbles where the Control Housing and
the Motor Housing join together, the Power Cable entry point, and Inductive Coupling
(wireless version only). Failure to repair leaks will result in premature failure of the unit.
Figure 13 – 4
2. Remove the test fitting. Apply Loctite 598 generously to the threads of the air release
plug and install it. Smear the excess 598 over the plug after it is installed (apply more
598 if necessary to cover the plug).
Figure 13 – 5 Figure 13 - 6
80
Test Run
A test tank and panel (available from E/One) is recommended for run-testing the pump. The
test tank has a discharge assembly for the D series pumps, or slide face for the W series
pumps. A pressure gauge and ball valve should be added to operate the pump under
pressure. A two-tank setup with sump pump to pump water back to the test tank is ideal.
Contact the E/One Service Department for assistance. Testing the pump is very important.
1. Set the pump in the test tank and fill with water to the alarm level. Connect the EQD.
2. Open the discharge valve.
3. Hook the Amp probe around the black power lead to the pump (see Amperage Draw
Test).
4. Turn on the alarm power circuit breaker and verify the alarm is functioning. Note:
Wirelessly-controlled pumps require that both breakers (pump and alarm) are on for the
alarm to function properly.
5. Turn on the pump power circuit breaker. The pump should turn on immediately. At 0PSI,
the alarm should turn off in one to two minutes; the pump within 30 to 45 seconds after
the alarm.
6. Leave the circuit breakers on. Fill the tank until the pump turns on. Carefully close the
ball valve until the pressure gauge reads 40 PSI. The pump should shut off in
approximately 45 seconds (in a 24”-diameter tank).
7. Fill the tank again until the pump turns on. Carefully close the ball valve until the gauge
reads 35 - 40 PSI. The pump should shut off in approximately one minute.
The unit must be tested to pump against discharge pressure; note the amperage draw at each
pressure.
WARNING! Do not “deadhead” the pump by closing the valve completely. Damage and
personal injury may occur.
Note: At 0 PSI discharge pressure, the unit pumps approximately 15 GPM. At 40 PSI, it pumps
about 11 GPM, and at 60 PSI, about 9 GPM. Flow can be checked with a 5 gal pail and a stop
watch (15 GPM = 20 seconds; 11 GPM = 28 seconds; 9 GPM = 34 seconds)
81
Amperage Draw Test
1. Set the clamp on amp meter to the desired scale.
2. Hook the probe around the black power lead in the control panel.
3. With the power on, fill the tank until the pump operates.
4. Read the current directly. Refer to the following table for troubleshooting information.
The figures shown are averages and meant to be used for approximation since motors, voltages
and amp meters vary. For a 120-volt pump, double the amperage shown in table.
The table displays a comparison of back pressure (PSI), flow (GPM), current draw (amperes)
and head (feet of water pressure). By knowing the current draw, you may discover a restricted
or blocked discharge line, blown pump stator, high head operation, etc.
A jammed grinder may trip the circuit breaker or cause the overload protector to cycle and this
will cause the pump to cycle on and off and finally result in an alarm condition. A torn or worn
out pump stator results in a “runs but does not pump” condition and causes an alarm. Current
readings with a clamp-on amp meter will show 4.0 to 4.5 amps when the motor is running
without a load. Replace the stator and, if necessary, the rotor.
Amperage Draw Readings
Amps @ 240V Head

PSI GPM Comments
(@ 120V) (ft)
4.9 (9.8) or less 0 0 0 Worn Stator
5.6 (11.2) 10 24 14 Normal
5.8 (11.6) 20 46 13 Normal
6 (12) 30 70 12 Normal
6.2 (12.4) 40 92 11 Normal
6.5 (13) 50 115 10 Normal
6.8 (13.6) 60 138 9 Normal
7.1 (14.2) 70 161 8 Normal
7.4 (14.8) 80 184 7.5 Normal
8 (16) or higher 90+ 207+ varies Plugged Discharge Line or bad bearings
over 15 (30) 0 0 0 Jammed Grinder or Shorted Motor
82
For more information, please contact your local distributor:
A Precision Castparts Company
Environment One Corporation

2773 Balltown Road
Niskayuna, New York USA 12309–1090
Tel: (01) 518.346.6161

Fax: 518.346.6188
NA0401P01 Rev –
05/13
www.eone.com

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Service

240V, 60 Hz • Hardwired Controls

1. Service Manual Overview ...........................................................................3

3. Troubleshooting (at panel, at EQD, site inspection)

5. Start-up Procedure (inspection and testing on site) .................................21

6. Pump End/Grinder Mechanism (inspection/replacement of grinder, stator, rotor,

7. EQD Disassembly and Reassembly .............................................................34

b. Top Housing Removal and Installation (IH) .................................44

c. Power Cable Replacement ..............................................................47

9. Level Sensor (inspection/replacement of pressure switches,

10. Control Cavity

11. Motor Cavity (disassembly and reassembly as well as testing) ...............68

12. Mechanical Seal Assembly (installation procedures) ...............................76

1. Service Manual Overview

3. Troubleshooting (at the panel, at the EQD, site inspection)

Each station name is made up several different identifiers (Ex: DH272):

Supply Voltage and Breakers 240V (hardwired controls)

Buck Boost Transformer

Continuity Tests 120V & 240V (hardwired controls)

Bad Switch, wet EQD, mis-wired, plugged

Water in EQD, Controls or Motor, motor

Low water level, wet EQD, EQD

Bad Switch, wet EQD, mis-wired, plugged

a. Is the station above grade?

Alarm On – Pump Running but not Pumping

Alarm Activates Frequently

DR or DH (Dry Well versions)

2. Open the lid to the station.

7. Lower the new pump into the tank

9. Utilizing the core wrench, open the valve.

10. Perform start up as described in Chapter 5.

UH or WH (Open Wet Well Versions)

2. Remove the lid to the station.

6. Install new pump into station.

8. Perform start up procedures as described in Chapter 5

3. Close the discharge ball valve.

8. Secure the pump with the eight bolts.

Voltage, Continuity and Cable Insulation Integrity Test

Removing the Pump Stator

Pump Stator Inspection

Swollen Pump Stator

Removing the Pump Rotor

To assemble the pump/grinder:

1. Loosen the compression nut on the cable fitting.

EQD,PIN# Wire Color Function

6. Tighten the compression nut on the Cord Grip.

Pin 2000 Series Extreme

12. Tighten the set screws, see Figure 7-6.

EQD Retrofit (200-Series to Extreme Series)

2. Loosen and remove the four Top Housing bolts.

If the Top Housing is to be replaced, then perform the following:

Discharge Tube (Candy Cane) Removal

1. Remove the o-rings from the discharge tube.

6. Remove the Equalizer from the Equalizer Tube.

Top Housing Reassembly and Installation

2. Loosen and remove the four Top Housing bolts.

Top Housing Replacement

1. Unthread Check/Anti-Siphon Valve from PVC discharge elbow.

2. Disconnect the Power Cable from the Alarm Panel.

3. Unplug Equalizer Tube from the Equalizer.