Power Whisperer
Power Whisperer
Power Whisperer
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DIY Power Whisperer
Table of Contents
DISCLAIMER .................................................................................................................. 4
Tools ...................................................................................................................... 17
Parts....................................................................................................................... 17
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Tools .......................................................................................................................... 21
Parts .......................................................................................................................... 22
The Breakers.......................................................................................................... 26
Final Words………………………………………………………………………………….34
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DISCLAIMER
GREAT EFFORT HAS BEEN EXERTED TO SAFEGUARD THE ACCURACY OF THIS WRITING. NO
PART OF THIS PUBLICATION SHALL BE REPRODUCED, TRANSMITTED OR RESOLD IN WHOLE
OR IN PART IN ANY FORM, WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT OF THE AUTHORS. ALL
TRADEMARKS AND REGISTERED TRADEMARKS APPEARING IN “DIY Power Whisperer” ARE THE
PROPERTY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE OWNER.
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PART ONE
What You Need To Know About
Power Generators
When most people think of a power generator, they think of a gas operated one. Gas
operated generators are relatively inexpensive to buy, but extremely expensive to
operate. For any long-term emergency situation, gas operated generators just aren’t
practical.
The other problem with gas operated generators is that they are noisy. If you want to
maintain OPSEC and not let people know that you are prepared to deal with the
emergency, then the last thing you want to be using is a gas operated generator. The
noise alone will give you away and attract much unwanted attention.
That’s part of the beauty of solar power. Of all the power options available for use in an
emergency, solar power is the best. The one drawback to it is that solar panels are
expensive. However, once purchased, there are no operating expenses and solar
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panels will work for up to 20 years, with minimal power loss. For long-term power
generation, solar is the best emergency backup system you can go with.
For solar to become a complete backup solution, you need more than just a solar panel.
The solar panel absorbs sunlight and converts it to electricity. Typically, solar panels put
out about 18 volts DC, which makes them perfect for charging 12 volt batteries. The
slight over voltage of the solar panel means that it will still charge the battery, even if
clouds are preventing the solar panel from operating at 100% efficiency.
The 12 volt DC of the battery can either be used as it is, such as for plugging in cell
phones and other devices to charge them, or it can be inverted up to 120 volts AC, for
use in powering home electronics. Either way, the solar generator is providing
necessary electrical power for meeting your needs.
Another thing you might want to consider is having a small, flexible solar panel for your
bug out bag. That would allow you to power your electronics while away from home.
There are a number of options for those types of solar generators as well. While not big
enough to provide electricity for your home electronics, they are big enough for charging
cell phones, GPS units, tablets and portable computers that you might take with you on
a bug out.
Most solar power generation is done by solar panels that are mounted to a home.
However, there are also portable solar generator stations, such as the Power
Whisperer.
This is a fully self-contained solar power generation system, with on board battery and
voltage inverter. The heavy-duty aluminum case protects the system from EMP and the
generator is mounted on a cart, making it portable.
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Unfortunately, generators are a “black box” to many of us and this makes us hesitant to
buy one. A generator is a major purchase for most folks, and it is natural to want to
understand how competing technologies compare and how specific models stack up
against one other before we make a major purchase.
Many of us do not understand how generators work in great depth or have any desire
to. If you fall into that category, that is just fine. You can be a competent driver without
being a mechanic. Fortunately for aspiring or inexperienced generator owners,
producing your own electricity is easier, safer and more affordable than ever.
We were recently asked a good question about the safety of a simple, but dangerous,
method of powering home receptacles with a (presumably) portable generator.
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To answer the safety question, there are definitely some serious safety concerns with
connecting a generator to home wiring in this manner.
The primary safety concern here is that if someone unplugs the cord from the wall
receptacle while the generator is running they will be holding a “hot” plug. If someone
touched that plug, their body would conduct the current supplied by the generator and
such a shock could easily result in a fatality under certain circumstances.
The same thing would occur if the cord was stored after use and later plugged into any
live wall receptacle in any home by someone thinking that it was an extension cord.
Plugging each end of the cord into a live wall receptacle, would cause an instant short
circuit and a fire danger, so you will not likely find such a cord for sale by any business
concerned with staying in business.
Could you make a cord as described? Of course. You could make one very easily, but it
would be inherently dangerous in the wrong hands, so I would not do it. It would not
instantly burn down the house or kill someone as the neighbor had it configured.
To most people, it might appear to be fine because they have never seen a hot male
connection before. But as soon as one end was plugged into a live receptacle and the
other plug touched any kind of conductor, the fireworks would begin.
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Back feeding is a fire risk because it can cause your home’s wiring to radiate
excessive heat.
Back feeding can also injure anyone who works on your home wiring because
they would not expect your home’s wiring to carry current coming into the wiring
through a receptacle.
Back feeding can pose a danger to linemen by energizing lines connecting to
your home that should not be energized if the power from the grid is cut.
As demonstrated in “1” back feeding can present a shock or electrocution hazard to you
or others in your home.
Keep in mind that proper electrical wiring is safe and should not deter you from
generator ownership. But unless you are willing to bet family and farm on the quality of
your work, please buy certified products or use a licensed electrician to perform wiring.
DIY projects make us feel self-reliant and can save money, but if you are at all uncertain
about electrical wiring, please get your DIY fix from projects that are less likely to result
in death or conflagration.
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receptacle with a bobby pin … or a goat, seeking refuge from a storm, chews on
a power cable … or a chicken, trying to stay warm, settles in next to the air
intake. Animals, children or adults who behave like children in the same space as
your generator or wiring can quickly turn a bad situation worse and must be
prepared for in your plans.
Ventilation: An exhaust leak or improper ventilation could spell disaster.
Explosive, caustic battery fumes can build up or a generator with an internal
combustion engine or wood gasification system could introduce carbon monoxide
into confined spaces. Ensure proper ventilation, check exhaust systems for leaks
and use battery powered smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Ditto for wood
stoves, oil lamps and fireplaces, so you likely need to do it anyway.
Heat: Many generators produce heat. This can be a resource or a liability
depending on how you manage it. You can cook on a motor exhaust manifold or
smoke stack or the same could become an ignition source for leaking fuel or
nearby combustibles. In my consulting work, I was shocked to learn how many
people buy insurance but disregard basic fire safety such as keeping an
inspected fire extinguisher on hand, maintaining smoke and carbon monoxide
detectors and eliminating combustion and fuel sources. Certain generator parts
can become very hot during operation and can burn you if they are not allowed to
cool before being touched.
Moisture: Power cables on wet floors are a shock hazard, as is operating a
generator with wet hand or when you are wet. I have lost friends to this in
countries with lax wiring standards. It is always a shame to lose good people to
preventable accidents.
Repair of Electric Generators: Electric generators often contain large capacitors
that store electrical energy so there is a risk of electrical shock when they are
opened. They should be repaired by qualified personnel.
Testing and Maintenance: Your installation may look beautiful on paper, but if the
first time you fire it up is during an emergency, when your adrenaline is flowing
and you have other things to worry about, problems may present. Like any
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Thinking outside the box does not come naturally to most people or it would be
commonplace, which it is not.
When I write of renewable energy, I am writing specifically about personal, camp, home,
retreat or small groups of installations such as solar, wind, micro hydro, geothermal,
biomass, biodiesel, or grain alcohol. The first step to succeeding at protecting a
renewable energy source is to select a source that is both available and that lends itself
to protection via the employment of deception.
Measures necessary to protect your renewable energy resource will vary greatly
depending on the type of renewable energy you produce. That’s because some
installations clearly lend themselves to deceptive strategies, such as concealment or
mobility, more readily than others. While it may be a simple matter to hide a micro hydro
installation, hiding the crops that provide biodiesel or alcohol may not be possible.
Windmills can be mobile, while geothermal installations cannot.
Leveraging any of these renewable energy sources in the active sense involves a
certain amount of infrastructure. While strategies for protecting that infrastructure by
means of deception may be endless, endless does not make a good article.
So I will describe some specific strategies and tactics while simultaneously admonishing
you to use them as a guide to think up your own strategies or adapt them to your own
circumstances.
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One example is disguise a ham radio antenna as a roof exhaust pipe. Commercially
disguised antennas are sold to amateur radio enthusiasts who want an antenna on the
roof, but mounting such an antenna would violate the CC&Rs of the local HOA.
You may be able to hide an alcohol still, but you probably will not be able to hide the
crops needed to run it. If those same crops are grown for other purposes, such as food,
you may be able to grow the crops without scrutiny. In this case, you only need disguise
the secondary purpose as a renewable energy source.
Good examples of mobile portable power are portable solar gear and portable
windmills. Both of these are mountable on transportation such as sailboats, vehicles,
wagons or handcarts. Portable solar gear and lightweight lithium ion batteries are
designed to be carried in a rucksack or backpack.
I use just such an array to charge my batteries in the field. It is very effective and
provides all the power I need to run lights, radios, GPS/PLB, computer, optics and even
an electric pump for my shower.
A pump driven shower may be a luxury, but communications equipment can call in the
cavalry and the right optics can be a powerful combat multiplier. All electronics have
one thing in common though … none of them will work for very long without a
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renewable energy source. Without juice to run them, electronics are just silicon and soft
metal, so the power to make electricity will always be of value.
Conceal renewable energy resources through camouflage and what I call sign
discipline. I will not go into excessive detail about camouflage since so much material
is available on the subject. I will point out that effective camouflage can be either covert
or overt camouflage.
Overt camo is camo such as camo pattern clothing or a ghillie suit used to blend with
natural terrain. Covert or urban camouflage is the art of not standing out in public as you
hide in plain sight. Overt camo should include the following disciplines:
Shape
Shine
Shadow
Surface
Silhouette
Spacing
Movement
Muzzle Flash
Sign discipline is the effective management of sign to maintain concealment. Much less
has written about the subject in survival circles. There is a sign discipline for each of the
five senses, minus taste, plus any additional senses or sensors that you or your enemy
possess.
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There are more disciplines to deal with the sense of sight since humans are primarily
visual hunters and the primary danger to survival in this case comes from groups of
humans. I categorize the principle sign disciplines are as follows:
Light (Sight)
Litter (Sight)
Spore (Sight)
Noise (Sound)
Scent (Smell)
Touch (Feel)
Mandate the use of blackout tent linings or curtains on all shelters or buildings. Test
blackout curtains by turning on the lights and observing the structure from the outside
after your eyes have adjusted to the dark.
Try to spot any light leaks, and turn off the lights before opening doors. When using a
light to read maps or manipulate gear at night in the field, while on picket or LP/OP
(listening post/observation post) duty, use a red light since they are easier on your night
vision than white lights and are less visible at a distance.
Use only as much light as you need once your eyes have adjusted to the darkness and
read the map or do the chore under a poncho while someone else pulls security in order
to maintain light discipline. Even the glow of a cigarette is visible at great distances in
the dark, especially with night vision, and the scent travels even further. Anyone in your
group with a nicotine habit should switch to chew or should quit.
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Cigarette butts, toilet paper, food wrappers or any other litter may alert people to higher
than normal standard of living. People are intelligent and cunning and will use reason to
deduce which targets are the softest and of the highest value. So be mindful of litter
discipline.
Plant vegetation to act as sound breaks. Make sure that your motor has an efficient
muffler, is running properly and is free of exhaust leaks. Build a sound-resistant
enclosure for the generator or engine. Operate it only in wind or foul weather when the
noise will not carry as far.
As with smoking, keep in mind the need for scent discipline in biodiesel production,
alcohol distillation and when cooking food with your energy. Do not underestimate the
scents of food, body odor or the lack thereof. You had might as well ring a dinner bell as
use energy to barbeque meat upwind of hungry critters, whether two or four legged.
Being clean smelling and looking may tip off an astute observer to the fact that you are
enjoying a higher standard of living than most or you use it to your advantage to project
an image of normalcy or authority or order. Whatever the case, you are better off being
self-aware and alert.
In the most basic sense, touch discipline governs sign that you can feel to glean
information, such as a fire pit, engine block or bed. They can all be touched to feel for
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warmth, which will dissipate over time according to the object’s thermal mass, area,
temperature, insulation, conduction, convection, air temperature etc.
Urine and scat also become dry to the touch over time according to similar factors that
govern the evaporation of moisture.
Whatever strategy you choose, consider using or adding the element of deception as
opposed to meeting brute force with brute force. It will improve your odds of survival.
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PART TWO
Power Whisperer Assembly
DVD/VIDEO
Before we get started, let’s see what tools you’ll need for the assembly.
Tools
2 -14mm Wrenches
2 -10mm Wrenches
1-Tyco SolorLock Crimper
1-Cable Cutter
1-Small Flathead Screwdriver
1-Allen Wrench Set (SAE) with 3/16
1-Set of Wire Strippers. Make sure they have a 12 gauge thread.
1-Power Drill
Parts
Here are the Parts you’ll need to assemble the solar generator.
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2 – Ring Terminals
1-Reel of 12 Gauge Red Positive Wire (At least 3 ft.)
1-Reel of 12 Gauge Black Negative Wire (at least 3 ft.)
1-SAE Loop
1-SAE Surface Mount
1-14 Gauge Lead Cable (We recommend 45 feet in length)
1 Solar Panel 50 Watt or More (We recommend 100 Watt)
Male and Female Solar Couplers with Male and Female Connector Pins
o Amp ANL fuse & Holder
1 Reel of 3/8 in. thick Heat Shrink Tubing
1 Reel of 3/16 in. thick Heat Shrink Tubing
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Now we’re going to show you how to build a solar generator in an inconspicuous metal
trash can.
1. Take the battery and place it in the bottom of the trash can and mark the edges
where you’re going to drill holes for the battery clamp.
2. Take the battery out and drill the holes. Place the rods through the bottom of the
can and set it up right then place the battery back inside the can. Connect the
rods with the cross beam of the battery clamp to hold the battery in place.
3. Next we’re going to mount the solar controller to the side of the stool. Take the
four screws that came with the sun saver duo and mount the solar controller
body to the top of the stool. You can place the solar meter display on top of the
stool after connecting it to the solar controller body via the rj-11 cable.
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4. We’ll connect the AUX Solar Panel surface mount to the solar channel in the
solar controller. Make sure to connect the positive and negative wires to their
respective terminals. Let the surface mount hang from the side of the stool.
5. Now we’re going to place the inverter on top of the stool. Then we’ll connect the
red and black AWG wires from the battery to the inverter with their respective
terminals.
6. Next were going to run a 12 gauge positive red wire with ring terminal attached to
one end from the battery to the positive terminal of the battery channel in the
solar controller body. Then we’ll run a 12 gauge negative black wire with a ring
terminal attached to one end from the battery to the negative terminal of the
battery channel in the solar controller body.
7. Last but not least we’ll connect the red and black AWG wires from the battery to
the inverter with their respective terminals and place the stool on top of the
battery.
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When charging, just run the solar panel cable from your solar panel to the aux solar
surface mount through the lid of the trash can.
When you want to power a device, run an extension cord from the inverter, through the
lid of the trash can, to whatever device you wish to power.
Tools
Here are the tools you are going to need to build the PowerWhisperer.
2 -14mm Wrenches
2 -10mm Wrenches
1-Tyco SolorLock Crimper
1-Cable Cutter
1-Small Flathead Screwdriver
1-Allen Wrench Set (SAE) with 3/16
1-Ratchet Crimper
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1-Lug Crimper
1-Heat Gun
1-Set of Wire Strippers. Make sure they have a 12 gauge thread.
1-Roll of Black Electrical Tape.
Parts
Here are all the parts you are going to need to assemble the Power Whisperer.
Before we start assembling the Power Whisperer we must prep some wires and cables.
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First were going to take the 2 SAE loops and cut them in half. After cutting them, set
them aside.
Now we’re going to show you how to prep the 12 gauge red and black wires.
You’ll need about 6 feet of each wire, 8 yellow female spade connectors and the 2
yellow ring terminals.
1. You’re going to need 3 4-inch pieces. On one end of these you need to crimp a
female spade connector and have the other end stripped to show exposed wire.
2. Next you’re going to need 3 8-inch pieces. Two of these will have female spade
connectors crimped on one end and stripped ends to show exposed wire. The
other 8-inch piece will have female spade connectors crimped on both ends.
3. Next you’re going to need 1 10-inch piece. It will have one stripped end and one
end crimped with a female spade connector.
4. The last piece you need will be 18 inches in length and have one stripped end.
The other end will have a yellow ring terminal crimped on it.
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1. You’re going to need 2 4-inch pieces of wire. 1 piece will have both ends
stripped. The other piece will have 1 end stripped and one end with a female
spade connector crimped to it.
2. Next you’re going to need 1 8-inch piece of wire with both ends stripped.
3. Next you’re going to need 1 18-inch piece of wire. One end will be stripped and
the other end will have a yellow ring terminal crimped to it.
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1. Take the 18-inch piece of black wire and the 4-inch piece with one end
containing a female spade connector and crimp them together in one side of the
yellow butt splice.
2. Next you’re going to cut the ring terminals off of both wires coming from the
trickle charger.
3. Next you’re going to take the black negative wire from the trickle charger and the
8-inch piece of black negative wire and crimp them together in the other side of
the yellow butt splice.
4. The yellow butt splice series is now complete.
The Breakers
Now we’re going to take our 4 breakers and group them together with electrical
tape.
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1. Start with a 30 amp breaker, then add the 15 amp breaker, then add the second
30 amp breaker and then add the 5 amp breaker. Stack them together and wrap
black electrical tape around them a few times to keep them grouped.
1. Take the red AWG cable you received in your 2000 watt inverter box and cut it
about 5 inches from one end. Strip both ends of the cable to expose the wires.
Make sure you keep the existing ring terminals on both wires.
2. Next loosen the screws on the ANL fuse holder using an Allen wrench and place
each exposed end of the wires into the clamps and secure them in.
3. Next, loosen the ANL fuse holder screws where the fuse will lay and place the
ANL fuse on top of the holder and secure the fuse by tightening the screws.
4. Next, put the clear case over the entire ANL fuse and grip to tighten it securely to
the frame.
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1. First take the car charger cable and attach it to the small red butt splices on the
positive and negative wires.
2. Next take one of the pre-cut SAE loops and strip the ends of the wires. Then
connect the positive and negative wires to their respective matches on the car
charger cable through the small red butt splices.
3. This completes the Car Charger Cable assembly.
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1. First you’re going to take one of your pre-cut SAE loops and attach the positive
and negative wires to their respective matches on the 45 foot lead cable using
two of the blue butt splices.
2. Next you’ll put a piece 3/8 in. heat shrink tube on the other end of the 45 foot
lead before stripping that end. Next you’ll take two pieces of 3/16 in. heat shrink
tube and put one on the positive wire and one on the negative wire. Then you’ll
strip the two ends at the edges of the heat shrink tubes. Next you’ll crimp the
(female) silver pin to the red positive wire and the (male) silver pin to the black
negative wire.
3. Next, use the heat gun to shrink the 3/16 in. tubing around the pins.
4. Next you’re going to take the male solar panel coupler and attach it to the red
positive wire and the female solar panel coupler and attach it to the black
negative wire. Use the heat gun to shrink the 3/8 in. tubing over the split ends on
the 45 foot lead.
5. This completes the Solar Panel Cable assembly.
Let’s start with the solar controller body. You’re going to need one 8-inch piece of
positive red wire with one end stripped and the other end crimped with a female
spade connector. Take the stripped end of the wire and place it in the positive
terminal of the first battery channel in the solar controller body. Tighten the screw
to secure the wire.
1. Next, you’re going to need the group of breakers and the Aux Solar Surface
Mount Sequence you prepared earlier. First take the positive red wire coming
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from the Aux Solar Surface Mount Sequence and attach it to the right side of the
Aux Solar Breaker. This is the second 30 amp breaker in our group of 4.
Then take the positive red wire from the first battery channel in the solar
controller and connect it to the left side of the controller breaker. This is the first
30 amp breaker in our group of 4.
2. Next, you’re going to need the Car Charger Surface mount. Take the negative
wire from the Car Charger surface mount and the negative wire from the Aux
Solar Surface Mount Sequence and twist the stripped ends together. Afterwards,
place them in the negative terminal of the solar channel in the solar controller
body. Tighten the screw to secure the wires.
3. Next you’re going to need another piece of 8-inch. Red positive wire with one end
stripped and the other end crimped with a female spade connector. Take the
spliced end and twist it together with the positive wire from the Car Charger
Surface mount. Afterwards, place them in the positive terminal of the solar
channel in the solar controller body. Then connect the end of the red positive
wire with the female spade connector to the left side of the Aux Solar breaker.
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4. Next, you’re going to need the 12 V socket and a piece of red positive wire with
female spade connectors crimped on both ends. Take one end of the wire and
connect it to the positive terminal on the 12 V Socket and take the other end and
connect it to the left side of the 12 V ACC breaker. This is the 15 amp breaker in
our group of 4.
5. Next, you’re going to need the group of negative wires attached to the yellow butt
splice along with the trickle charger. The negative wire coming from the trickle
charger should be attached to the yellow butt splice as well.
Take the negative wire with the stripped end which runs into the same side of the
yellow butt splice as the negative wire from the trickle charger, and place it in the
negative terminal of the battery channel in the solar controller body. Then take
the short negative wire with the female spade connector, coming for the other
side of the yellow butt splice, and attach it to the negative terminal of the 12 V
Socket.
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6. Next you’re going to take the positive wire coming from the trickle charger,
crimped with a female spade connector, and attach it to the left side of the trickle
breaker. This is the 5 amp breaker in our group of 4.
7. Next, you’re going to connect the remaining breakers together with the red butt
splice series you prepared earlier. Connect the 3 4-inch red wires with female
spade connectors crimped to their ends to the right sides of the Controller, 12 V
ACC and Trickle breakers.
8. Now you’re going to connect the red positive wire with a ring terminal from the
red butt splice series to the positive terminal of the battery in correlation with the
red AWG wire containing the ANL fuse. Next you’re going to connect the black
negative wire with a ring terminal coming from the yellow butt splice series to the
negative terminal of the battery in correlation with the black AWG wire.
9. Next, you’re going to connect the red and black AWG wires to their respective
terminals on the 2000 watt inverter.
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10. Last but not least you’re going to connect the solar meter display to the solar
controller body using the RJ-11 cable provided in the solar controller box.
After everything is connected, turn on the controller breaker to make sure the
solar meter display is working and then turn on the inverter and plug in a device
to make sure you’re receiving power.
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Final Words
The PowerWhisperer M-Type we build has many advantages that other solar
generators don’t have. We have designed an awesome EMP-resistant Faraday cage
type casing that it is housed in. It has 10 inch. Rugged wheels for easy transport over
different types of terrain. It comes complete with a detachable handle for easy storage
once you get the generator to your destination.
When you a buy a Power Whisperer from us you receive a camouflage net that can be
draped over the entire unit to help you conceal it while camping or while using it in
during unpredictable times.
The construction of each unit is handmade here in our facilities and is checked for
quality before being shipped. You will also receive 4 exclusive reports written by Lee
Bellinger as well as a quick start guide to get you comfortable with your unit.
The Power Whisperer can supply power to many devices in your home and has the
power to change your opportunities in desperate times.
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