The Koh Samui Guide 5th Edition

1
THE KOH SAMUI GUIDE

||
HOW TO PLAN AND ENJOY

YOUR PERFECT KOH SAMUI VACATION
2016 || 5TH EDITION
The Koh Samui Guide 2

❖ 100% independent: We’re 100% independent and totally anonymous in our research. We
receive neither payment nor incentive for our recommendations. We’re normal, paying guests
and customers who liked what we saw – and went back for more. We offer all island details in
the hopes that they truly appeal and improve your holiday – there’s nothing in it for us.
Copyright 2012-2016 by kohsamuisunset.com and thekohsamuiguide.com
All rights reserved worldwide

All rights reserved. All text in this book is the work of the authors, and neither the book itself nor any part of its text may be
reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, without the express written and prior permission of the authors,
except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
❖ Without limitation to the foregoing, hosting this book on another website or distributing it to
other persons is expressly prohibited and outwith the terms of use. No one loves a pirate.
Images
Approximately half of the images through the book are our own; the remainder (including the cover) are used under license
from Shutterstock.com. Koh Samui changes at its own pace, and we make every effort to keep our photos (and maps)
honest and up-to-date, to show you the island as you’ll see it today.
Liability
The authors and publisher have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information herein. However, the
information contained in this book is sold without warranty, either express or implied. Opinions expressed result from the
authors’ own experiences, and no guarantee as to future expectations is given. Neither the authors, nor their dealers or
distributors, will be held liable for any damages caused either directly or indirectly by the information contained in this
book.
Recommended books and travel products are those we own, love and use often. Links on our website
(www.kohsamuisunset.com) and in The Koh Samui Guide to Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk, Learn Thai Podcast and
Booking.com are through their associate programmes, which provides us a small commission on resulting orders at no
cost to the buyer.
Conrad Koh Samui, page 35

152 8 107
22 98 80
Rock Salt
W Retreat
44 31 141
Plai Laem Beach
TOP 10 FAQS
❖ Emergency phone numbers? page 51-52 What’s a farang?
❖ Can I drink tap water? (No) page 49 Farang is a Thai word, which literally
means “foreigner” (specifically a non-
❖ Where’s a really romantic place to stay? page 37 Asian foreigner). Unlike in some cultures,
❖ What to wear to visit temples? page 66 the word does not by itself carry
negative connotations – it simply
❖ When is sunset? page 100 denotes a non-Thai. However, as with all
matters linguistic and cultural, this is a
❖ What can I do when it’s raining? (or too hot) page 147
delicate assertion and is context-
❖ How can I find vegetarian/gluten-free food? page 90 dependent. The important thing to
remember is that you will likely hear the
❖ Do I need a travel adapter? (Maybe) page 69 word farang during your stay, and that
the word itself isn’t derogatory.
❖ Which beach has the best sand? (You pick) page 13

CONTENTS
WEATHER & CLIMATE || WHEN TO VISIT? || 08
BEACHES & HOTELS || WHERE TO STAY? || 12
TRANSPORT || HOW TO GET AROUND? || 40
SAFETY & SENSE || HOW TO STAY SAFE? || 49
THAI CULTURE & SAMUI SIGHTS || WHAT TO EXPECT? || 55
PACKING || WHAT TO BRING? || 62
YOUR ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE || WHAT TO KNOW? || 70
FOOD AND DRINK || WHERE’S BEST? || 78
NIGHTLIFE || FROM SUNSET TO STARRY NIGHTS || 98
EXPLORING SAMUI || WHAT TO DO? || 106
SHOPPING || WHAT TO BUY? || 138
RAINY DAYS & STRONG SUN || WHAT TO DO? || 145
ISLAND EVENTS || WHAT’S ON? || 148
BIRD-WATCHING & PLANTS || WHAT TO SEE & WHERE? || 157
KOH SAMUI WITH KIDS || PLANNING A FAMILY TRIP || 160
THANK YOU! || WHAT’S NEXT? || 173

WELCOME || TO KOH SAMUI
109 108 16 98
Hansar
Thanks for downloading our 5th edition of The Koh Samui Guide. Whether you’ve already booked your
tickets or just want to taste what Samui has to offer, we hope our book will be your closest companion.
We’ve written The Koh Samui Guide after more than twelve years of Koh Samui holidays. In that time,
we’ve enjoyed the island on our own and with friends, with our partners, and with our family (a colourful
group with a wide range of interests). We’ve celebrated birthdays, Christmases, anniversaries and have
got truly soaked on Songkran (see page 149).
The brilliant sun and drenching rain of Samui’s tropical weather make for varied island days, exciting and
beautiful in equal measure. Since our first visit in 2003 we’ve enjoyed every month of Samui’s climate in
beach bungalows, lush resorts, hotel villas and rented private homes, and each has taught us something
new about how to pack and what to bring.
Yet energetic exploration of this charming island will never be complete, and as Samui changes and
develops, fresh surprises will emerge waiting to be found. We hope you find some of your own while
navigating Samui’s narrow lanes and lengthy beaches.
Whether you’re old Asia hands or have never set foot on a plane – bringing your little ones, coming as a
couple or a group – Koh Samui has much to offer you, and we want to help you find it.
Finally, we’d love to hear about your holiday! We do our utmost

to keep The Koh Samui Guide fresh and useful. Share your tips,
your favourite hideaways – and your monitor lizard sightings
especially– with us: [email protected]
Enjoy!
Alex and Charlie

April 2016 August, 2003 – Our first trip to Koh Samui
(Choeng Mon sunrise)
INSTAGRAM || TWITTER || PINTEREST

BLOG WWW.KOHSAMUISUNSET.COM

QUICK REFERENCE || FAQS
Where is...?
To make The Koh Samui Guide easier to read, we’ve included a meaty list of
resources and further details at the bottom of relevant pages. (If the establishment
in question has a website, that’s where you’ll find the link). If you’re inquisitive or
impatient, just click on the footnote number[##] to be taken to the entry.
LOST LUGGAGE?
❖ Bangkok Airways ❖ Where to buy clothes?

(Koh Samui Airport) page 138
+66 (77) 428 500
*To dial a Thai number from within Thailand,
omit the country code (+66) and add a (0) at
❖ Koh Samui Airport the start. For example, dialling the Bangkok
(main office) Airways number while you’re in Thailand
+66 (77) 425 012 would be (0) 77 428 500.
Sea Dance Resort, page 29
FEAR FACTOR
Thai words you’ll (probably) hear
Some common concerns and how to enjoy a prudent, not phobic, trip:
❖ ‘sawai’ = beautiful
❖ Insects? page 54 ❖ Scams? page 58 ❖ ‘nit noy’ = “a little” (as in ‘a little spicy’)
❖ Mosquitoes? page 50 ❖ Sharks? page 123 ❖ ‘wat’ = temple
❖ Jellyfish? page 57 ❖ Snakes? page 54 ❖ ‘ban’ = house or village
❖ Rabies? page 61 ❖ Zika virus? page 51 ❖ ‘hat’ = beach
❖ Tsunamis? “Simulations reveal that tsunami threat due to ❖ ‘yai’ = big
seismic origin to the Gulf of Thailand is almost nonexistent”.
❖ ‘aroi’ = delicious
(Scientific paper + in layman’s terms)
❖ ‘koh’ = island
❖ Falling coconuts? Mostly urban legend.
Download free tourist Thai lessons, page 60
FAVOURITE HOTELS
✭✭✭✭✭ || Anantara (page 16), Napasai (page 22), Hansar (page 16) and SALA Samui (page 28)
✭✭✭✭ || Montra (page 26), Poppies (page 19), Rocky’s (page 25) and Tango Luxe (page 31)
✭✭✭ || Am Samui Resort (page 35), Escape Beach Resort (page 22) and Smile House (page 16)
✭✭ || By Beach Resort (page 34) and Chaulty Towers (page 26)
✭ || Sri Samui (for an early morning ferry), page 32

WEATHER & CLIMATE || WHEN TO VISIT?
What’s the weather like on Koh Samui?
For the most part, Koh Samui is hot and sunny1 – just what you want for a perfect beach holiday. The
broad exception is rainy season, which is typically late October to mid December (details page 11). Note
also that Koh Samui’s hot and rainy seasons are different from other parts of Thailand, including Phuket.
When’s the best time to come?

If you’re seeking assurance you’ll have a sunny holiday and return home with a tan, then just about any
month besides November will do its very best. See the weather month-by-month, on the next page.
Will it rain during your trip?

Probably. Always expect rain in the tropics, but rest assured it never lasts very long. Tropical downpours
come with the territory and make Koh Samui so incredibly lush. Outside of rainy season, a rain storm is
usually a dramatic but fleeting affair – perfect for cutting the humidity. If you’ve never been to the tropics,
it’s a fantastic show. When it rains, it pours, and winds can whip up to considerable speeds. Often, it’s
gone as quickly as it comes, making for a refreshing afternoon shower. Rest assured if it does decide to
pour – any day of the year – there’s still plenty to do.
Remember that Samui’s rainy days never mean cold weather. Hotels and restaurants use heavy plastic
windbreaks so you can enjoy the dramatic atmosphere outside with your beer and a great book (while
staying completely dry).
❖ What is there to do on a rainy day? Our best ideas are on page 145.
What’s the rain like?

It depends on the time of year. Rainy season can offer an astonishing volume of rainfall over a period of
weeks. In other months (typically June/July/August), it might rain a little every day. These are consistent
but short-and-sweet rain showers where the world ends in wet fury for just 20 minutes.
Occasionally, storms can cause temporary power cuts so keep your Kindle charged and consider
packing a small wind-up flashlight/torch. Luckily, Thailand’s ‘mai pen rai’ (never mind) attitude kicks in
when the power goes out and Samui’s service industry is adept at keeping its customers happy. So while
it might take longer during a power cut to get a coconut shake (from an electric blender), it never stops
the pad Thai or fried-bacon-and-egg parade (gas-powered appliances).
1 Average weather for Koh Samui: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand

WEATHER MONTH-BY-MONTH
January: Best if you don’t like strong heat. As rainy season tapers off, early January is Koh Samui’s
coolest period (avg. 25°C/77°F). It soon heats up and by month’s end temperatures in the 30s (high 80s
Fahrenheit) aren’t unusual.
February: Best for lots of sunshine and a “not too hot,

not too cold” temperature. It’s Samui’s driest month
(of total rainfall), and is slightly warmer than January.
March: Best for non-stop sunshine. Defined by the

fewest rainy days and the least median cloud cover,
March is – statistically – the sunniest month. It’s hot,
with mercury rising.
April: The hottest month of all – a scorcher! Make sure

to book air-conditioned accommodation. Sunny day on Maenam Beach
May: (Typically) still the hot, dry season: expect temperatures between 28–35°C (82–95°F) with the
occasional, emphatic shower. May on Samui sees an average of 215 hours of sun – almost 7 hours per
day.
June: Sunshine and lots of it. Typically the heat begins to subside a little from the “hot season”, and
short, sharp tropical showers aren’t unusual. Average temperature for the month ranges between 25–
32°C (77–92°F); just about perfect.
July: Hot and sunny, with occasional, unpredictable but short tropical storms. You might read that July is
Koh Samui’s rainy season – not so. Comparing the wettest July of the past 10 years (1.3” total rainfall)1 to
November’s average 12 or more inches, July rains are simply “afternoon showers”.
August: Like July, it’s hot and sunny with sporadic, but short storms. 32°C (89.6°F) average high.
September: Hot and sunny. Just as nice as August but, owing to school schedules, likely a lot quieter on
the island.
October: Starts out hot and sunny, approaching rainy season. On average it’s the cloudiest month,
though this rarely means grey days and Eeyore skies.
November: Best for good hotel deals (for good reason). It’s typically Samui’s wettest month: an average
of 12+ inches of rain and 65% rainy days. Steady downpours and rough seas.
December: Mid-month, the rainy season starts to give way to drier weather. It’s not quite as hot, possibly
breezy, but hopefully sunny. In recent years, the average Christmas Day temperature ranged from 25.5–
29°C (78–84°F) 2.
1 July average weather: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/7/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand
2 Dec 25 average weather: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/12/25/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand

How hot and humid is it in ____________?
Apparently dew point, rather than temperature or relative humidity, better correlates to comfort levels
and “how much you’ll want to jump in an ice bath” at any given time.
TEMPERATURE DEW POINT
LOW HIGH LOW HIGH
78°F 85°F 72°F 76°F

JANUARY
25.5°C 29.4°C 22°C 24.4°C
79°F 87°F 72°F 77°F

FEBRUARY
26°C 30.5°C 22°C 25°C
80°F 89°F 72°F 78°F

MARCH
26.6°C 31.6°C 22°C 25.5°C
81°F 90°F 75°F 79°F

APRIL
27°C 32°C 24°C 26°C
81°F 91°F 74°F 79°F

MAY
27°C 32.7°C 23°C 26°C
81°F 90°F 74°F 78°F

JUNE
27°C 32°C 23°C 25.5°C
80°F 90°F 73°F 78°F

JULY
26.6°C 32°C 22.7°C 25.5°C
80°F 90°F 73°F 77°F

AUGUST
26.6°C 32°C 22.7°C 25°C
80°F 89°F 73°F 77°F

SEPTEMBER
26.6°C 31.6°C 22.7°C 25°C
79°F 87°F 74°F 78°F

OCTOBER
26°C 30.5°C 23°C 25.5°C
78°F 86°F 73°F 78°F

NOVEMBER
25.5°C 30°C 22.7°C 25.5°C
78°F 85°F 72°F 76°F

DECEMBER
25.5°C 29.4°C 22°C 24.4°C
Koh Samui averages from 2005 - 2012 via WeatherSpark.com

RAINY SEASON
What to expect in rainy season?

If you don’t need a tan, you might love Koh Samui in
rainy season. We do! While timing and volume varies
from year to year, rainy season generally means:
❖ Good hotel deals (and the pool to yourself!)
❖ Low temperatures around 24°C/75°F

Tongsai Bay in late November, page 29
❖ Choppy and atmospheric seas
❖ Stronger breezes than usual
❖ Many local roads can and do flood
Accommodation rates will be at their lowest all year – leaving more in the holiday budget for the full spa
menu. While it’s warm enough to wear shorts, the ocean will likely be unsuitable for swimming. Beaches
won’t be pristine. With rougher seas, lots of flotsam and jetsam wash up. Ang Thong National Marine
Park is usually closed and water-sports or boat trips could be unavailable. However, you won’t need
restaurant reservations. You’ll probably want to rent a car and stick to the island’s main, paved roads.
Jungle excursions are not advised at this time of year!
❖ Plan your visit to Ang Thong National Marine Park on page 109.
Should you avoid Samui in rainy season?

It depends – do you want a picture-postcard perfect beach? Sun and sand likely won’t cooperate and
you’re safer booking your beach holiday at another time of year. However, Samui’s rainy season holds
huge appeal for relaxation and lazy days. If you want a quiet vacation filled with books, yoga, Thai
cooking classes and other tropical treats off the beach – rainy season could suit you very well.
❖ Get daily weather details at http://samui-weather.blogspot.com
11
Plai Laem beach
and a ‘not to scale’
rendering of Samui
(ring road in pink)
BEACHES & HOTELS || WHERE TO STAY?

Just off the spindly isthmus connecting Thailand’s north and south, Koh Samui sits warmly within the
tropics in the Gulf of Thailand. The largest and most developed island in its archipelago (which includes
Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, and a handful of smaller islands), it’s characterised by rolling peaks covered with
lush foliage, red rock faces and long stretches of white beaches lined with coconut trees.
How big is Koh Samui?

It’s bigger than Bermuda, dwarfed by Fiji and approximately Seychelles-sized. At 228.7 square kilometres
(88 sq. mi), the island is just 2% of Hawaii’s mass. Roughly, Samui is about the size of metropolitan
London or Sydney and half as big as Phuket.
How to your bearings?

Mountainous jungle sprawls across most of the island’s interior, and population centres hug the coast.
Samui is essentially a collection of beaches (each with its own flavour), divided by headlands and loosely
connected by a single ring road (the ‘4169’, which is 51 kilometres or just over 31 miles around). Samui’s
northeast is home to the airport and tightest collection of towns. Follow the ring road further south, and
you’ll soon find yourself in valleys of rice paddies, with untouched mountains and jungle reaching across
the horizon. You can circumnavigate the island in an afternoon – but exploring hidden lanes and secret
beaches will take you far longer. The question is, then – where is best for you?
KOH SAMUI’S BEACHES
What’s the sand like?

How finicky are you about sand? If it’s sunny and we can walk barefoot, we’re happy. Others seek only
sugary white stuff. Every Samui beach has its own sand texture and appearance. Chaweng’s is the whitest
and brightest (Choeng Mon a close second). Bophut and Maenam’s sand is “coarser” but is still
“sand” (not rocks, pebbles or shell shards). Take a look:

WHAT’S THE
SAND LIKE?
Alphabetical, by beach
Bang Po Bang Rak

(page 34) (page 31)
Bophut Chaweng South Chaweng

(page 15) (page 18) (page 18)
Choeng Mon Hanuman Bay (near Choeng Mon) Lamai

Lipa Noi Maenam Taling Ngam


Which is the best beach?
The suggestion that you could choose a wrong beach, or a bad beach, can make planning a holiday from
afar very stressful. Koh Samui has vast variety in its beaches – so it’s a matter of getting the right fit, not
selecting “The Best, bar none”. Samui’s two largest beaches couldn’t be more different, so the island
manages to be all things to all sorts of people. Over the coming pages, we’ll consider the most popular
beaches (in terms of number of hotels and resorts present), as well as quieter, ‘boutique’ and far-flung
options.
❖ Beware of ‘fake’ Bophut: Samui addresses can easily confuse. While a hotel’s address might
suggest that it’s on Bophut beach, this isn’t necessarily the case. The district of Tambol Bophut
encompasses a much wider area. To be sure of a hotel’s location, use maps.
How far is it between each beach or town?

By car, in minutes:
Bang Rak Bophut Chaweng Choeng Mon Lamai Maenam
Bang Rak / 10 15 7 25 20
Bophut 10 / 15 15 25 10
Chaweng 15 15 / 12 15 25
Choeng Mon 7 15 12 / 25 25
Lamai 25 25 15 25 / 35
Maenam 20 10 25 25 35 /
Private beaches?
Not so fast! In Thailand, all beaches are public property –
if you can get to it, you have the right to use it. There are
“harder to reach” beaches, and “not on tourist map”
beaches – but don’t take the word “private” as gospel. As
such, many high-end resorts are found in remote bays,
with beaches that are all but impossible to reach from
outside. Certainly keep privacy in mind if you’re booking a
villa on a busier beach.
Future home of the Ritz-Carlton Koh Samui:

Many high-end resorts are found in remote bays
where beach access is easier to control.

Fisherman’s Village
Bophut Beach
Bang Rak
BOPHUT
Bophut, (pronounced bo-put) though itself a large beach, is calm and feels very intimate. Home to a few
large resorts, the properties remain hidden until you stumble upon them – development has been
unobtrusive and blends into the landscape with gorgeous tropical plants and sensitive architecture.
Bophut favourites
❖ Thing to do: Spa at Zazen, page 125
❖ Restaurant: Krua Bophut, page 79
❖ Drinks: Coco Tams, page 99
Le Spa Zen at Zazen Boutique Resort
BEST OF BOPHUT
It’s a long beach: Bophut beach is easily a half hour walk from end to end. Early morning or sunset strolls
become a default part of your schedule.
It has two ‘towns’: Just off the beach you also have the advantage of two ‘towns’ – both the shops and
restaurants on the main ring road, as well as the much quieter and more pedestrian-friendly
Fisherman’s Village, a few narrow streets lined with small shops, and some of Samui’s best bars and
restaurants. With children, the latter could be preferable.
Extremely walkable: Bophut’s local appeal makes possible a dynamic holiday requiring no outside
transport. It’s amongst the most walkable parts of the island. The Wharf, a beach-front mall of
boutiques, cafés, spas and restaurants further recommends Bophut as a car-free destination.
❖ Enjoy the best of Fisherman’s Village and its Friday walking street, pages 119 and 103
Sand and suitability?

Though the sand’s grittier than Chaweng, Bophut is a great choice for all types of visitors, suiting families
and couples alike. The beach banks quite steeply and the sand is loosely packed; local runners train on
Bophut as it offers great muscle toning!

WHERE TO STAY?
Accommodation ranges from three-star boutique to five-star resort, both on Bophut beach itself and in
the delightful Fisherman’s Village.
For service, view and sheer reluctance to go home, the gorgeous Anantara Bophut is among the best
on the island. Rooms are totally refreshed after a 2013 renovation, while its lush gardens provide plenty of
shade and a staggering array of tropical plants. Bophut’s lengthy beach hides just below the pool, (read
on a bean bag between the two) and the resort’s pool restaurant is well worth trying even if you stay
elsewhere. Why choose it? Novel activities, big balconies, engaging kids’ programmes, and the little things
done right.
Upmarket alternatives to the Anantara include the neighbouring Hansar with its triple-threat score card:
an enormous beach-front infinity pool (+ kiddie pool), ocean-view rooms and 30-second walk to
Fisherman’s Village. The more intimate Zazen (a honeymoon haven) boasts stellar credentials and our
favourite spa on Samui. Complicating your choices, Bo Phut Resort & Spa cleaned up at this year’s
TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards and offers various villa options, many with private pools.
Top row: Hansar and its kiddie pool, Anantara Bophut’s pond and pool
Bottom row: Zazen’s pool, the quick walk from Hansar to Fisherman’s Village and a Zazen villa
Helpful, charming staff and its convenient location near the bars and restaurants of Fisherman’s Village
make Smile House what it is, and a beach restaurant across the quiet road attracts guests and
passersby alike. It’s ideal for families with young children, and couples keen to explore the rest of the
island (although parking can be tight). Why stay here? Though a small hotel, the beach, bar, restaurant,
pool and gardens, and your bungalow’s porch offer great outdoor variety without leaving the grounds.
For a similar, family-run feel, try The Waterfront Boutique Hotel on the outskirts of Fisherman’s
Village.

Further hotel details at Booking.com:
Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa Smile House

❖ http://samui.anantara.com ❖ http://www.samuismilehouse.com
❖ 106 rooms, 2 restaurants ❖ 54 rooms, 1 restaurant
❖ Renovated 2013 ❖ Built in 1986
Bo Phut Resort & Spa Waterfront Boutique Hotel

❖ http://www.bophutresort.com ❖ Fisherman’s Village
❖ 61 rooms, 2 restaurants ❖ http://thewaterfrontbophut.com
❖ Built in 2004 ❖ 18 rooms, poolside bar
Hansar Samui Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa

❖ http://www.hansarsamui.com ❖ http://www.samuizazen.com
❖ 74 rooms, 1 restaurant ❖ 26 rooms, 2 restaurants
❖ Built in 2010 ❖ Renovated 2007
Left to right: Bo Phut Resort & Spa

beach and pool, Waterfront Boutique
Hotel pool, Smile House beach chair

Chaweng Beach
Chaweng Noi
Chaweng’s sand is Samui’s

softest and whitest
CHAWENG
Chaweng is generously described as a market place of Thailand’s excesses (for better or worse), and
perhaps more discriminatingly considered a kitschy procession of neon, scooters and ill-advised bare
chests. By far Samui’s most developed and populous beach, Chaweng has burgers, bars, massage
parlours, plenty of jet-skis and every type of accommodation.
❖ Good or bad, Chaweng is “near the action”.
If you’d use the words “too touristy” above “bustling” or “convenient”, choose a different Samui beach or
accommodation towards Chaweng’s quieter northern or southern fringes. With an exhaustive strip of
souvenir shops, it’s a beloved destination of backpackers and the all-night set. Younger couples will find a
lively nightlife (at times difficult to escape), but families and those looking for an “away from it all” should
probably look elsewhere (or towards Chaweng’s southern end and/or its round-the-corner neighbour, a
separate bay called Chaweng Noi).

Chaweng devotees love its beach – offering plenty of room for long walks, water sports, and a different
happy hour daily. Round-the-clock activity options include jet-skis or the Aquapark (page 169) by day and
pub-crawls by night (perhaps a paddle-board pub crawl, page 122). Central Festival Mall (page 138) is
in easy walking distance and puts even more at your fingertips. No car rental is necessary in Chaweng.

Chaweng favourites
❖ Thing to do: Lazy afternoon in a bean bag at The Jungle Club , page 82
❖ Restaurant: Poppies, page 80

❖ Shop: Nature Art Gallery, page 142
Beachfront lunch at Poppies
WHERE TO STAY?
Poppies is small and sweet, with every chance that staff members will know your name (and drink) by
day 2. Poppies ticks a number of boxes – it has gorgeous gardens, a gem of a pool, and sits on the quieter
southern curve of Chaweng. Rooms are discrete little bungalows, giving you a great sense of “home”.
Poppies turns 22 years old in 2016 and remains on top for Chaweng hotels. With such competition –
they’re clearly doing ‘boutique’ justice. A romantic little spot that’s just as suitable for honeymooners and
a family happy to entertain itself (there’s no kids’ club but children are very welcome). Two doors down,
Chaweng Cove Beach Resort is lighter on the pocket but offers the same white beach.
For other peaceful parts of Chaweng, consider choosing a hotel which, like Poppies, can offer greater
insulation from the buzz outside. These are found at the edges of Chaweng’s large bay, with the busier
parts towards the middle. Resorts a short drive away, like the Nora Buri (popular for weddings) or
Anantara Lawana in North Chaweng, offer regular shuttle service so you never feel cut off.
Left to right: View of Chaweng Beach from

The Jungle Club, Centara Grand Beach
Resort, pool at The Jungle Club
Chaweng also does the large resort experience very well and Centara Grand Beach Resort is big
enough to offer an ambiance all its own. With a vast choice of restaurants, pools and on-site activities it’s
a great choice for multi-generation groups or holidays with children. Christmas, Chinese New Year,
Carnival, Songkran – any holiday on the calendar – are celebrated with ‘go big or go home’ enthusiasm.
Of course, if you like to be in the thick of things, Chaweng Garden Beach Resort is the nicer, cleaner
neighbour to Ark Bar – party central with nightly fire shows and DJs. Forgot your selfie-stick? Beach
vendors will save the day.

Anantara Lawana Resort The Jungle Club (details page 82)

❖ http://lawana-chaweng.anantara.com ❖ http://jungleclubsamui.com
❖ Renovated 2013 ❖ Renovated 2011
Centara Grand Beach Resort Nora Buri Resort & Spa

❖ http://www.centarahotelsresorts.com ❖ http://www.noraburiresort.com
❖ 203 rooms, 7 restaurants and bars ❖ 144 rooms, 3 restaurants
Chaweng Cove Beach Resort Poppies

❖ http://www.chawengcove.com ❖ http://www.poppiessamui.com
❖ 101 rooms, 1 restaurant ❖ 24 rooms, 1 restaurant
Chaweng Garden Beach Resort
❖ http://www.chawenggarden.com
❖ 162 rooms, 2 restaurants
❖ Renovated 2010
Chaweng is Samui’s most popular beach –

but it’s easy to see why it has such fans

Maenam Beach
MAENAM
Amongst the longest of Samui’s beaches, Maenam’s (pronounced may-nam*) relative lack of
development means seclusion and intimacy. Unlike neighbouring Bophut, Maenam’s many cottages are
hidden down small, winding roads, discouraging passing traffic. This is of great benefit to parents with
young children, as hotels abut the wide beach, far from roads. Car or scooter hire is recommended due to
the beach’s distance from the ring road and busier parts of the island.
*Some people emphasise MAY nam, others May NAM. As Thais say with a shrug, “same same”.
Maenam’s many charms
More village than town, Maenam, genuinely, has just one traffic light and has better retained a sense of
local life. If averse to “touristy” things, Maenam (or beaches still further west and southwest) could suit
you very well. This is resolutely not a Place To Be Seen. Ramshackle pubs and beach bars retain the same
salty charm of decades past, while the surrounding population is more Thai than farang.
Maenam favourites
❖ Thing to do: Absolutely nothing
❖ Food: Angela’s sausage rolls, page 87
❖ Drink: Passionfruit mojitos at Napasai, page 22
Belmond Napasai’s
passionfruit mojitos

Maenam is approximately 5–7 km (3–4.3 miles) long, however tides mean it’s not always possible to walk
the full length. It tends to be quiet, with far fewer beach vendors and more room to find your spot and
spread out. There’s great shade available under palm trees along a beach that remains undeveloped in
many spots. The sand is soft underfoot, though not ‘white sugar’. We find it very walkable and have – in
mad moments – gone for runs along Maenam as well.

WHERE TO STAY?
As the ratio on many Samui beaches shifts from bungalows to resorts, Maenam happily ticks along largely
unchanged. The beach is quite removed from the ring road, so accommodation tends to be very quiet
and many have gorgeous gardens.
Large resorts both well established and newly opened have done well to blend into surroundings. If you
like your space, Belmond Napasai Koh Samui offers villa accommodation rather than traditional hotel
rooms. The resort environment is totally unpretentious, and a little rustic (there's even a 'Secret
Countryside' petting zoo on site).
Golfers might choose the Santiburi Resort, Golf and Spa as it’s under the same ownership as the
Santiburi Samui Country Club (page 131) and offers quick and easy transport between the two (while
non-golfers need only commute to the resort’s 300 metres of beachfront).
Another high-end slice of Maenam is W Retreat Koh Samui – superb if you like health and indulgence in
equal measure: it has its own yoga studio and free ice cream stations throughout. A sleek, trendy and very
‘on-brand’ experience. All three resorts stand out for their range of complimentary guest activities;
Belmond's include yoga, fruit carving and windsurfing. Or, sit back and wait for the home-made ice
cream.
To sleep beach-front on a budget, Maenam retains many small bungalow establishments. Sweetest
amongst them, Jasmine & Tea House is very much of yester-year (with quirky WiFi to match) but offers
a sunset in a hammock for the best value around. Mid-range, Hacienda Beach Resort and Escape
Beach Resort are consistent contenders with beach-front and/or sea-view rooms in their inventory.
What’s nearby?
If you want the quiet and privacy of Maenam, but not all the time, it’s just a 10-minute drive to
Fisherman’s Village (not walkable unless you’re traffic-fearless and fairly intrepid). Nights there could
easily fill your happy hour or dinner calendar for a week or two.

Belmond Napasai Koh Samui Jasmine & Tea House

https://www.facebook.com/JasmineandTeaHouseSamui/
❖ http://www.belmond.com/napasai-koh-samui ❖
❖ 68 rooms, 2 restaurants ❖ 5 rooms
❖ Renovated 2009 ❖ Opened in 2013
Escape Beach Resort Santiburi Resort, Golf and Spa

http://www.santiburi-hotel.de/index.php/en/
❖ 69 rooms ❖
❖ 1 restaurant ❖ 71 rooms, 3 restaurants
Hacienda Beach Resort W Retreat Koh Samui
❖ http://www.samui-haciendabeach.com ❖ http://www.wretreatkohsamui.com
❖ Ongoing upgrades since 2012 ❖ Built in 2010
Left to right: Belmond Napasai’s beach and pool,

and Maenam beach bungalows

Coral Cove
Crystal Beach
Lamai Beach
Hin Ta Hin Yai

Hua Thanon
LAMAI (+ AREA)
Another big beach with a bigger neighbour, Lamai (pronounced la-my) sits immediately south of
Chaweng. A quieter, less developed cousin, Lamai is more “take us as you find us” than resort-refined. At
street level the tattoo parlours outnumber bucket-and-spade shops, but it – and everything else – is
forgotten on the gorgeous beach. To stretch your budget, choose more basic digs in Lamai town and plan
for just a few minutes’ walk to the beach.
Nearby, the Lamai area has lots of small coves, ‘secret’ beaches like Crystal Beach (see below), and little
bays – many of which feature prominently on Koh Samui travel brochures. It’s very pretty down this way.
Lamai favourites
❖ Thing to do: Yoga at Vikasa, page 132
❖ Restaurant: Rock Salt, page 80
❖ View: Sandalwood Luxury Villas, page 25
Rock Salt, Crystal Beach

CRYSTAL BEACH + SMALL COVES
Between Chaweng Noi and Lamai, also called Crystal Bay, Silver Beach and Thongtakian. This beach-
of-many-names (and smaller but similar neighbours) has uniquely white sand and clear waters for Samui,
surrounded on all sides by handsome boulders. Sea almond trees offer welcome shade, making a great
spot for both yoga or sand castles. The (fairly basic) bungalows at Crystal Bay Yacht Club Beach
Resort give you prime access. Its restaurant, Rock Salt, is amongst our favourite on the island.
Left to right:
Lamai Beach,
Crystal Beach
24
The Kala
WHERE TO STAY?
For higher end hotel choices, “near, not on” Lamai locations likely mean much quieter beaches than the
main stretch, shared with just your hotel or a few others. Such resorts use Lamai's views to stunning
effect. Clockwise around the island, from just south of Chaweng Noi:
The steep steps at The Kala, between Chaweng Noi and Lamai, suggest its views keep going and going.
Indeed, every room promises an ocean view. Reach its beach club by a short walk along a garden
boardwalk, or by kayak! Breakfast is served until 6 pm, perfect for jet-lagged souls (and bacon lovers).
Rather seafood? Free fishing gear is provided for guests.
With a hilltop sign announcing ‘Stress-Free Zone This Way’, Vikasa Yoga Retreat welcomes both novice
and expert yogis as well as stressy souls needing to unplug. Vikasa offers a serene spot and a great
approach. In their own words: “You don’t need to be flexible or thin, or have the “right” clothes. You don’t
need to know ancient Sanskrit or burn incense in your home. All you need to do is show up with an open
mind and do your best.”
Around the corner from Crystal Beach, Banyan Tree Samui shows off Thailand’s five-star experience:
individual villas and a friendly golf cart driver waiting to take you there. Unless invading by kayak,
consider its beach private.
Finally, just southwest of Lamai beach, Rocky’s Boutique Resort is a small hotel above the sea with
attentive staff, a great ‘rocky’ restaurant, and every detail carefully designed.
Views or beach?
As a very hilly island, some of Koh Samui’s best views are to be found off the beach. Do you prefer a pool +
view combination to the sand itself? If so, many of Koh Samui’s higher end hillside properties might be
just the ticket. In the steep Lamai hills, Sandalwood Luxury Villas seems to win every award going and
is definitely worth a look. With just 10 villas on a small property, they offer free beach shuttles and
tremendously personalised service.

Off the beach
Tucked in a quiet Lamai neighbourhood, Montra Resort offers guests the chance to do very little in the
most rewarding of ways. Perfect for solo travellers with a good book or quiet couples in search of serenity.
Lazy days are enjoyed poolside, with stunning Thai food throughout. (Note that there’s a Montra Resort
and a Mantra Resort on Koh Samui!)
If you’re happy to drive or scoot to the beach, you’ll find great value for money at Chaulty Towers in
Lamai’s hills. This small family-run hostel welcomes up to 14 guests with cheerful English management,
Thai home cooking and Rambo the “mainly spaniel” security dog. Further hotel details at Booking.com:
Banyan Tree Samui Montra Resort

❖ http://www.banyantree.com ❖ http://www.montrasamui.com
❖ Built in 2010 ❖ Built in 2009
Beach Republic (details page 155) Rocky's Boutique Resort

❖ http://www.beachrepublic.com ❖ http://www.rockyresort.com
Chaulty Towers guest house Sandalwood Luxury Villas

❖ http://www.chaulty-towers.com ❖ http://www.sandalwoodsamui.com
Crystal Bay Yacht Club* Vikasa Yoga Retreat

❖ http://crystalbayyachtclubsamui.com ❖ http://vikasayoga.com
❖ Renovated 2014 (*not a yacht club) ❖ Opened in 2011
The Kala
❖ http://www.thekalasamui.com
❖ 38 rooms, 1 restaurant
❖ Built in 2008
Top: Banyan Tree Samui, Montra Resort

Botton: The Kala, Crystal Bay Yacht Club,
Vikasa Yoga Retreat and Chaulty Towers

Choeng Mon Beach
Hanuman Bay
CHOENG MON (+ AREA)
Choeng Mon (pronounced chung-mon) remains a favourite of those in search of a low-key holiday. Small
hotels and cottages mainly characterise the beach, though larger resorts are recent arrivals. A slow pace
of life pervades open-fronted restaurants all along the moon-shaped bay.
Choeng Mon favourites

❖ Thing to do: Beach massage, page 124
❖ Restaurant: Orchid, page 85
❖ Drink: Coffee at SALA Samui, page 28

Choeng Mon draws a happy crowd of all ages – both families and couples alike. Protected from open
water by a headland, it can be a calmer destination for water sports. Increasing its suitability for parents
of small children, the beach faces east so you can usually find invaluable shade on hot afternoons (and
Choeng Mon sand makes perfect castles).
Why stay in Choeng Mon?
10-15 minutes to everything: While Choeng Mon is off the main ring road, it’s an easy drive of a few
minutes to livelier Chaweng and picturesque Fisherman’s Village.
Sleepy beach village: For ambience, Choeng Mon’s road retains an air of a sleepy beach village, with
every amenity you might need: Thai, Indian, Korean and Western restaurants, 7-Eleven and convenience
stores, food stalls, souvenir shops, ATMs, pharmacies and so on.
Great for families: As with Bophut, if you’re happy to simply enjoy a beach (a soft sugar one at that) for
the duration of your holiday, you can easily spend a car-free week or two.
Airport proximity: Another advantage is Choeng Mon’s proximity to the airport, just 10 minutes away.
(Bang Rak is perhaps closer, though directly under the flight path).

Left to right: Sunset at Melati, SALA Samui, The White House
WHERE TO STAY?
SALA Samui is an atmospheric hotel that has consistently and successfully blended 5-star service with
Choeng Mon’s total lack of pretension. Its position at the end of the short beach offers privacy from
beach-based passersby, and 75% of its rooms have private dip pools – very popular with honeymooners!
Its best feature is a beautiful, long pool with both beach and pool seating. SALA Samui’s beach-front
restaurant is also superb (and a great birthday spot).
Best known for its overgrown entrance, recalling Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider, it’s easy to fall in love
with The White House from first glance. Its lush landscaping and friendly, helpful staff recommend it
further. This small hotel will be most appreciated by couples or families seeking good value and island
exploration. Celebrating its 33rd year, room-by-room updates are ongoing (if your happiness depends on
a flat-screen TV).
Tucked on the far corner of Choeng Mon, Honey Cottages sits at the opposite end of the beach to SALA
Samui and The White House, and offers peace and seclusion. Enjoy lunch under the shade of a group of
large trees, or paddle out to the nearby island, Koh Farn Yai, at low tide. A great spot for families with
young children seeking a picture-perfect holiday. In-room amenities are few, but a gorgeous location will
keep you perpetually outside.
Over the headland, a few minutes’ drive from Choeng Mon Beach, the Melati Resort has unrivalled
gardens (15 acres of them), plus separate adult and family swimming pools. It might need a little spruce-
up sooner than later, but we keep it very much on our “yes” list. With its rustic neighbour, Thongson Bay
Bungalows, it comes very close to offering you a private beach. Renting a car or scooter will be a must,
though.
❖ How to rent a scooter or a car, pages 43 and 45
Left to right: Six Senses Samui, Thongson Bay, Melati’s swim-up bar

NEAR CHOENG MON (SAMUI’S TOP 3 MODEL CITIZENS)
If the Choeng Mon area appeals, but you’d like to really tuck yourself away, a few nearby hotels offer even
more seclusion. As it happens, three of them happen to be amongst Samui’s most upstanding ‘model
citizens’ for their environmental efforts. If any eco aspects appeal to your travel priorities, particularly
consider the following.
Best for animal-lovers and wildlife enthusiasts: Just across the Choeng Mon Bay, and a short drive
away, Tongsai Bay will take you even further from the crowds. Sitting quietly in its namesake bay,
Tongsai is an ‘all-round’ resort, suited to couples and families equally. As for its strong eco ethos (‘green
cleaning’ and no pesticides!), staff are educated in humane animal treatment and its 25-acre site is home
to 60 species of resident and migratory birds. Food scraps are donated to the island’s animal shelter, Dog
and Cat Rescue Samui (DCRS).
Best for the green crowd: Built into a steep hillside on its own 20-acre headland, Six Senses Samui
offers beautiful views and tremendous quiet. Like Tongsai Bay, herbs, aloe and other produce are grown
on site (for use in your cocktails and spa treatments). With a more behind-the-scenes green, the hotel
recycles grey water and makes its own bio-diesel. All building materials are sustainable (including
salvaged teak, bamboo and coconut thatch).
Best for home-grown goodness: Graph fuss and formality on one axis, with price on the other and Sea
Dance Resort hits the sweet spot – a casual beach resort at a moderate cost. On Hanuman Bay
between Choeng Mon and Chaweng, it shares a small beach with just one other hotel. Like your privacy?
All rooms at Sea Dance are freestanding cottages. An on-site vegetable garden suggests that at least
portions of the menu are organic and home-grown. There’s not much on your doorstep, but Choeng Mon
is approximately 20 minutes’ walk. Don't miss passionfruit mojitos at the swim-up bar!
Between the three, a preference for rustic, ‘chic rustic’ or ‘bamboo/polished concrete’, respectively, will
swing your vote.
Shark-fin free: The above three resorts are proudly shark-fin free, meaning they don’t serve shark fin
soup – good news for sharks, oceans and animal lovers alike. Fin Free Thailand* also designates these
Samui hotels as ‘good guys’:
❖ Anantara Bophut (page 16) ❖ Le Meridien

❖ Anantara Lawana (page 19) ❖ Manathai Koh Samui
❖ Banyan Tree Samui (page 25) ❖ OZO Chaweng
❖ Centara Grand Beach Resort (pg. 19) ❖ Poppies Samui (page 19)
❖ Conrad Koh Samui (page 35) ❖ Sunset Beach Resort
❖ Four Seasons Resort (page 34) ❖ W Retreat (page 22)
❖ Kamalaya Koh Samui (page 84 + 126) ❖ X2 Samui
❖ Kanda Residences
❖ Fin Free Thailand: http://www.finfreethai.org

Honey Cottages Six Senses Samui
❖ http://www.samuihoney.com ❖ http://www.sixsenses.com/resorts/samui/
❖ 26 rooms ❖ 66 rooms, 2 restaurants
❖ 1 delightful restaurant ❖ Renovated 2015
Melati Beach Resort and Spa Thongson Bay Bungalows

❖ http://www.melatiresort.com ❖ http://www.thongsonbay.com
❖ Built in 2008 ❖ Cash payment and direct bookings only
Top: Honey Cottages, Tongsai Bay, Sea Dance Resort

Botton: SALA Samui, Six Senses Samui, Tongsai Bay
SALA Samui Resort and Spa Tongsai Bay

❖ http://www.salaresorts.com/samui/default-en.html ❖ http://www.tongsaibay.co.th
Sea Dance Resort The White House

❖ http://seadanceresort.com ❖ http://www.samuithewhitehouse.com

Plai
Laem
Nathon
Big Buddha
+ pier
Bang Rak Beach
Lipa Noi ferry
Flying over Bang Rak and Plai Laem beach
BANG RAK AND NATHON
Just travelling through? Bang Rak and Nathon (pronounced na-ton – rhymes with ‘bon’) are usually
bustling with traffic, whether powered by foot, wheel, wing or propeller. Though you’ll find a beach at
Bang Rak (Nathon’s beach is more port than paradise), both towns lay along the island’s main
thoroughfare and are home to two of its ferry termini. Bang Rak is convenient for travel to Koh Phangan
and Koh Tao, and both towns are good places to stock up on amenities. Restaurants and nightlife are
available, but the bustle (and – in Bang Rak – flight path) might not make for a relaxing stay. However, if
you’re all about your water-sports, you’ll be very well-situated next to the Bang Rak marina.
❖ How to get to Koh Samui by ferry? Details on page 71. Note there are two ferry terminals to
the mainland (Surat Thani): one in Nathon and a second, smaller one in Lipa Noi.
BANG RAK (+ AREA)
For a short and very sweet stay for two, The Scent Hotel offers darling design in a French Colonial feel.
Each of its 13 rooms is different and indulgent fine dining starts each day with beach-front eggs Benedict.
Not a great swimming beach but a very romantic ambience for a quiet couple hoping to relax or read all
day.
Bang Rak favourites

❖ Thing to do: Visit Big Buddha, page 107
❖ Restaurant: Le Jaroen, page 85

❖ Drink: Cocktails at Tango Luxe, page 98
Big Buddha
You might see Bang Rak beach sometimes called Big Buddha Beach. Also in the area, though off the ring
road and with no town to speak of, you’ll find Plai Laem Beach on the opposite (eastern) side of Big
Buddha’s small peninsula. Here, hammock-lovers should consider Tango Luxe Beach Villa. While Plai
Laem is a very shallow (not swimmable) beach, its sunsets are stunning and planes landing over Big
Buddha are gorgeous at all times of day. A fantastic little spot, whether for a tucked-away honeymoon or
all-day happy hour state of mind.

The Scent Hotel Tango Luxe Beach Villa
❖ http://www.thescenthotel.com ❖ http://www.tangoluxe.com
Tango Luxe Beach Villa
NATHON
Have to be near the pier? Your best bets for Nathon Residence
a warm welcome, cold beer and clean bed ❖ 25 rooms
are Nathon Residence and Sri Samui.
Both offer free WiFi. Time to kill? See Sri Samui
shopping ideas, page 140. ❖ 8 rooms

Left to right: Sunset in Bang Po, Lipa Noi and Taling Ngam
FURTHER AFIELD
In search of complete peace and seclusion? Look to the more distant beaches that follow. If you’d like to
set down and stay put, these areas are a great choice. While minimal development means less choice in
hotel accommodation, many private villas are tucked on quiet beaches. In the cheap and cheerful
bracket, you’re encouraged to ditch your iPhone and time-travel to a simpler age.
Car hire is strongly recommended for visitors staying in these areas due to their distance from shops and
amenities. Once off the few main roads, this part of Koh Samui gets very rural, very quickly. Also expect a
long ride to/from the airport, upwards of 45 minutes.
Water buffalo on the south coast
Am Samui Resort, Taling Ngam

BANG PO (ALSO SPELLED BANG POR)
Four Seasons Resort is a convincing reason to head to the northwest corner of Samui (and never, ever
leave). A recent visit actually changed our lives (Proof? They turned us into durian fans). If your wallet’s
looking fat, you have our vote. More than other Koh Samui resorts in its class, Four Seasons is particularly
family-friendly (more details page 140).
Bang Po
Laem Yai
Slightly closer to reality, other Bang Po options exist at all price levels along this beautiful stretch of coast.
Some hotels and bungalows sit just beside the ring road, so check on Google Maps that it’s a quiet spot. A
superb example is By Beach Resort, a tucked-away enclave of 12 bungalows and everything else you
might need: table tennis, a beach massage hut and free WiFi. (At time of writing, Google Maps suggests
there’s a nudist beach next to the resort – we can only assume the wishful addition of a confident soul
hoping to make some friends. See page 66 for Thailand’s take on public nudity).
Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui ❖ By Beach Resort

❖ http://www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui ❖ 12 rooms
❖ 73 rooms (of which 60 are villas) ❖ 1 restaurant
❖ 2 restaurants
❖ Renovated 2013
Four Seasons Resort

Lipa Noi
LIPA NOI AND TALING NGAM
Lipa Noi (pronounced lip-a-noy) and Taling Ngam (pronounced ta-ling-yam), far around on Samui’s west
coast offer peace, quiet and beautiful sunsets. As such, you’ll find the glitziest of resorts on this side of the
island, including InterContinental and Conrad Koh Samui, plus a variety of private villas. Beyond
white beaches, a dusting of coconut palms and the odd temple, life proceeds down here at the laziest
stroll.
In Taling Ngam, on a very quiet section of beach, Am Samui Resort offers couples and families
bungalow accommodation with a small beach-front pool and large gardens. On-site car hire, plus yoga
and muay Thai studios in walking distance, makes this a very well-equipped slice of simplicity. Up the
coast, Lipa Bay Resort is Lipa Noi’s equivalent with fractionally fancier surroundings.
It’s no stretch to say you might see more monkeys and water buffalo than fellow tourists. Adding to the
sense of quiet, the Taling Ngam coast is divided in places by rocks, headlands and other topographical
barriers – not conducive to random passing by. Sunsets along this coast are beautifully framed by the
islands forming Ang Thong National Marine Park (page 109).
Am Samui Resort InterContinental Samui

❖ 27 rooms, 1 restaurant ❖ http://samui.intercontinental.com
Conrad Koh Samui
❖ Renovated 2012
❖ http://bit.ly/MpzwVS
Lipa Bay Resort
❖ Built in 2011 ❖ 18 rooms, 1 restaurant
Elements Boutique Resort (details page 131) Nikki Beach Resort (details page 155)
❖ http://elements-koh-samui.com ❖ http://www.nikkibeach.com
❖ 33 rooms, restaurant next door ❖ 48 rooms, 2 restaurants
Taling Ngam
Thong Krut
35
HUA THANON AND NA MUANG
Aside from the small fishing village of Hua Thanon, the areas of Hua Thanon and Na Muang are more
administrative regions than specific beach destinations. Consider them broad areas, with the small bays
and beaches of Bang Kao and Laem Set within them (also spelled Ban Kao and Leam Set). As above, this
is a very quiet part of the island.
Private villas, like Laemsor Residence and Ban Mekkala, make up much of the beach-front
accommodation in this part of the island. Coming with a group and plans to pull up the drawbridge? This
might be an ideal spot. As for hotels, Banburee Resort & Spa is beach-front in Laem Set while Easy
Time Resort offers a slight savings with a 2-minute walk to the beach.
Na Muang
Hua
Thanon
Bang Kao
Laem Set
Laem Sor Pagoda
Ban Mekkala Easy Time Resort
❖ http://www.ban-mekkala.com ❖ 15 rooms
❖ Sleeps 12 ❖ 1 restaurant
❖ Built in 2008 ❖ Built in 2005
Banburee Resort & Spa Laemsor Residence
❖ http://www.banbureeresort.com ❖ http://www.laemsorresidence.com
❖ 40 rooms, 2 restaurants ❖ 2- and 3-bedroom villas
Laem Sor Pagoda

TOP TIPS: WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU BOOK
How expensive is accommodation?
Across its many beautiful beaches, Samui features every type of accommodation – from the humblest
hostel to the grandest resort. While it’s often suggested that Koh Samui is going “upmarket”, there
remains a great variety of accommodation at all levels. You’ll find a great mix – both in price and
ambience – and independent favourites are going strong. Poppies in Chaweng is as gorgeous as ever,
and The White House in Choeng Mon celebrates 33 years in 2016! As far as we can tell, this ‘upmarket
upswing’ hasn’t wiped out the budget options; rather, the fancy stuff is now here if you want it. Indeed,
Koh Samui’s 228.7 square kilometres are nothing but choices.
How to find a great budget hotel?
❖ Simple, thatched Thai beach bungalows can be a lot more charming than 1-star rooms in the
Western world, but do spring for air-conditioning in warmer months.
❖ You’re likely to enjoy a savings if you’re happy to walk, drive or scoot to the beach.
❖ While booking sites have many highly reviewed 1- and 2-star family-run bungalows, few have a
robust web presence. Make an advance booking for at least a night, then have a wander and see
what you find in person.
How recent are the photos?
(Ignore this advice if staying in a large resort, especially one with international presence). If you’re seeking a
small, independent resort or beach bungalow – and you have your heart set on exactly what’s in their
photos – it might be worth double-checking just when they were taken. On rare occasions we’ve seen
websites promising views that were blocked by new developments a few years after the photos were
taken. Whether it’s false advertising by oversight or malintent, it’s better to make sure than to arrive to
disappointment.
Which are the most romantic hotels?
Does romantic mean hammocks and tiki torches, or fine dining and dressy clothes? As you’ve seen on the
previous pages, you can truly choose your own formula (and any kind of budget to match). Our top
recommendations include:
❖ Our top recommendation: Zazen Boutique Resort (page 16) – Zazen’s aesthetic ethos?
There’s no flat surface on earth that couldn’t benefit from a thousand candles. Romantic
ambiance? Take a look (next page) – your mood lighting is in good hands. You’ll find one of – if
not the – biggest wine cellars on the island at Zazen and its French-influenced food is
exceptional. Best of all? The spaaaaaaa (page 125).

Also well-worth your consideration (in alphabetical order):
❖ Belmond Napasai (page 22)
❖ Hansar (page 16)
❖ SALA Samui Resort & Spa (page 28)
❖ The Scent Hotel (page 31)
❖ Tango Luxe Beach Villas (page 31)
❖ And – no kids allowed: Akyra Chura Samui (boutique on the quieter north end of Chaweng
beach) An ideal choice if your modern-world trappings are integral to your R&R. Akira is a child-
free lifestyle resort for trendy couples with a minimalist bent. Also ideal for lazy people: beach
chairs have ‘push-for-cocktail’ buttons.
Left to right: Zazen, Hansar and Belmond Napasai

kiddie pools
Where is best to stay with children?
In terms of both ambience and safety, some hotels are more suitable for children than others. Scrutinise
photos carefully for water features, railings and what’s on the other side of the infinity pool.
As for where children are welcome, Thais love kids – don’t feel you have to hide them! A few resorts we’ve
mentioned are popular honeymoon and couples’ resorts and a maniacal toddler might stick out.
However, families with an adorable baby, a packed itinerary or compliant teenagers could love staying at
such places. Our top recommendations (for an already child-friendly destination):
The best kiddie pools?
❖ Hansar: Mummy and Daddy can sit at the adjacent beach bar and actually remain responsible
parents (or take cocktails to the canopied day bed on the opposite side). Details page 16.
❖ Banyan Tree Samui: It’s big, and in its own area – go ahead and un-mute Marco Polo. Page 25.
❖ Tongsai Bay: Has a hillside adults-only pool and a beach-front family pool. Page 29.
❖ Belmond Napasai: Enjoy a beautiful beach view and comfy, shaded furniture. Page 22.

The best kids’ clubs:?
❖ Kids For All Seasons at Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui (page 171)
❖ Planet Trekkers kids’ club at InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort (page 171)
❖ More details: Our best advice for planning a family vacation is on page 160.
RENTING A PRIVATE VILLA?
There are villas all over Samui, some of which can accommodate more people than we have Facebook
friends. Some are tucked on or above very remote beaches – ones you could consider “basically” private.
When booking, keep in mind (or be sure to ask):
❖ What happens when you need ice cream? Many villas’ lack of proximity to restaurants and
general amenities is a nice perk when you want “desert island”, but less so when you want
dessert. Are errands easy to do? Is there an on-site chef or manager?
❖ Where is the air-conditioning? Double check exactly which rooms of the house have their own
A/C units. Sometimes the kitchen and living areas are fan-cooled but lack A/C – a steamy reality
for the unacclimated.
❖ Is there a generator? Power cuts happen and can affect the water supply too.
❖ Access and hazards: While accessible villas might exist on Samui (or might soon, as options
increase each year), assume that most aren’t. If you’ll have elderly guests or small children in
your group, ask about stairs, railings, ponds and other safety aspects. Many villas are built in Thai
style, with lots of small buildings connected with walkways.
❖ Sun and shade: When choosing where to stay, err with caution and overestimate the strength
of the Samui sun. Check photos of your intended accommodation for shade, whether under
trees or umbrellas, so that you have a comfortable (and healthy) stay.
Is it easy to find food and amenities?
If you’re interested in self-catering accommodation or have picky eaters, it may be a good idea to book
nearer to the large supermarkets (which are mostly on the road between Bophut and Chaweng). This
would put (clockwise) Bophut, Bang Rak, Choeng Mon, Chaweng and Lamai beaches higher up the
convenience list.
❖ Find out where to buy food, fruit and alcohol on pages 92 and 94.

Ring road and
songthaew
TRANSPORT || HOW TO GET AROUND?
You might choose to arrive straight from the airport and camp out for the entirety of your stay – beach,
book, and beer. That said, exploring even a small part of Samui will add much more to your visit. It’s more
or less a round island with a few sticky-out corners and, navigating the ring road, it’s hard to get lost. Get
to know your transport options knowing that it’s entirely possibly to arrive and play it by ear.
TRANSPORT FAQS
Airport transfers?
No matter your exploration plans, you’ll need to organise your airport transfer. Even the smallest beach
bungalow will be able to arrange this for you, while some hotels offer guests complimentary transfers.
Taxis are available too and, if you plan to wing it, make sure to have your destination’s phone number
handy (it’s far more useful than an address). If you’d like to arrange your own transfer, this can be
arranged online with companies such as Samui Explorer1 and Samui Bus 2 (the latter has convenient
online booking for both airport transfers and general island shuttle transport).
Can you get around Koh Samui on foot?
It depends! Sort of. Maybe. Sometimes? With the exception of remote south coast beaches (e.g. Taling
Ngam, Lipa Noi), and small beaches (Plai Laem near Big Buddha, for example), every beach has both its
own beach-front community of bars and restaurants, as well as an adjacent “real world” on the main
road outside.
Depending on the hotel, this might be a 2-second walk out the front door, or a 10-minute amble down a
dirt path. There, you’ll find varying combinations of restaurants, banks, pharmacies, laundry services,
tailors, souvenir shops, bars, 7-Elevens, street food carts and all manner of businesses. The larger the
beach you’re staying on, the more this holds true: Chaweng, Lamai, Bophut, Choeng Mon, and Bang Rak
all sit near or adjacent to their own towns, with more developed roads and some sidewalks.
1 Samui Explorer: http://www.samuiislandexplorer.com/en/transfer
2 Samui Bus online booking: https://samuibus.com

Example: Amenities outside Centara Grand Beach Resort (page 19)
travel agent taxi convenience store

laundry pharmacy
If you adamantly don’t want to drive or rely on taxis, ask your prospective hotel or villa about the
surrounding area. Google Street View is increasingly reliable for Samui’s main roads. In sum, yes, you
certainly can walk around many parts of the island. The below photos better explain why in some places
(or with a stroller) you might not want to. The ring road has high levels of traffic, with only a narrow
shoulder in places. Most towns have sidewalks, though there’s often plenty to trip over. When it rains
heavily, roads can flood and puddles become ponds. Remember to walk against traffic.
Typical shoulder
on the ring road
Road conditions in heavy rain
❖ At night: Night-time visibility along Samui’s roads is not in the pedestrian’s favour and
streetlights can be sparse. Consider packing a few reflective arm-bands (like cyclists use).

Bicycles?
It’s hot, and hilly. Can we not dissuade you? From time to time you see tourists riding the ring road on
bicycles wearing looks that say “this seemed like a good idea at the time”. Adamant you’re meant for two
wheels? If you’re a serious road cyclist you’ll spot bike shops on the ring road in larger beach towns. If it’s
a more casual interest (or your quads aren’t interested in Samui’s 89% grade hills – or so they look to us),
consider a guided bike tour instead.
❖ Consider taking a mountain bike or cycling tour of the island, page 129
Tuk-Tuks?
Unlike Bangkok, Koh Samui doesn’t have tuk-tuks.
Road conditions?
Roads can narrow to one lane in certain areas, and the lack of pavements mean that pedestrians often
have to walk in the road. Road conditions vary around the island, and potholes can be large. As well,
roads can flood due to rainfall and require creativity in navigation.
TAXIS AND ‘ISLAND UBER’
Island Uber?
NaviGo is Koh Samui’s answer to Uber and a very welcome addition to the island’s taxi scene. It’s
extremely easy to use: first, download the free NaviGo app1 and sign up for your account. When you need
a ride, the app uses your phone’s location as the pick-up spot (so there’s no language barrier or
confusion). As with Uber, the app shows where your car is, how long until it arrives, a photo of the car and
an estimated trip cost.
trip estimate
driver’s name
driver’s photo
car’s location
car’s photo, model and registration
time to arrival
1 NaviGo app for iPhone and Android: http://www.navigosamui.com

In our experience, Navigo cars arrive on time, with helpful and friendly drivers – recently a total life-saver
on a rainy day in a remote part of the island. Cars are fully equipped with clever stuff (including in-car
cameras for complete peace of mind). All travel should be this easy. Use discount code NAVIGO1ST to get
30% off your first ride. Current operating hours are 9 am to 5 am.
Taxis?
Taxis aren’t cheap, and rates can approach those of major cities. Still,
they’re abundant and a good way to get from one place to another in
air-conditioned comfort. You’ll find them at gathering spots like 7-
Eleven, or can flag them down circling the ring road. Often they’ll find
you – just pause for a moment or longer while out walking. With a
stricter schedule, you can ask your hotel to pre-book a taxi.
Set a rate in advance as, despite appearances (the words “Taxi Meter”
on the outside), meters aren’t used. Samui taxis operate on a flat-fare
system (which is somewhat negotiable). Ask your hotel for an advised
fare, keeping in mind that farangs (foreigners) pay a different figure than
A Koh Samui taxi
locals. Four people per taxi maximum.
SCOOTERS AND MOTORBIKES
Scooters are the de facto transport choice on Samui, and Thai families of four and even five people use
them with reflexes learnt from birth.
As a rental option, scooters obviously come more cheaply than a car and can suit a couple’s needs very
well. Depending on the motor size, rates vary between 250-400 THB per day (you might find them cheaper
in quieter areas). They’re definitely convenient, good for short distances and – certainly – are fun in the
sun. Do their drawbacks and dangers negate such appeal? We’ll leave you to consider accident statistics
(very high), and realities of traffic, strong sun and occasional heavy rain.

❖ Your helmet: Hot, sunny weather makes many Samui
visitors forget their physics. Please avoid a holiday
lobotomy. World Nomads puts it a little more bluntly:
“Accidents happen. Stupidity doesn't.” 1 Instead, smugly
scoot through the regular helmet checks hosted by the
Samui police (penalty: on-the-spot cash fines for the un-
helmeted – 500 THB for the driver and 1,000 THB per
passenger).
❖ Your bike licence: Check your travel insurance policy

carefully to see the bike licence2 it requires you to hold in
your home country, if any. (World Nomads details linked
below).
As riding without a helmet or the right licence is (technically)

illegal in Thailand, being on the wrong side of either could void
your travel insurance.
SONGTHAEW (HOP-ON/HOP-OFF)
(Pronounced song-tao – tao like cow, also spelled songtaeo, songtaw, songtao, etc). One step higher up the
food chain is Samui’s version of a public bus. It’s a pick-up truck with two covered benches in the back of
its converted bed. Roof racks mean you can easily transport luggage or a back-pack.
Songthaews circuit popular places and busy routes frequently and

follow a vaguely set route around the ring road and its larger off-
shoots. If travelling between two such places, they can be an
interesting, open-air way to see the island. Elsewhere, in quiet
parts of Samui, you can wait awhile. This might mean melting
gracefully when it’s hot, or getting nicely soaked in the rain. If you
find a songthaew full, some people choose to stand on the back
bumper and hang on to the roof. Don’t tell us (or your mother) if
you follow suit.
With far cheaper fares than taxis, Songthaews offer a rugged island
charm that might delight. They’re not comfy, but as cheap and
cheerful as it gets.
A Koh Samui songthaew
1 World Nomads: What's not covered – Stupidity. (We're serious). https://www.worldnomads.com/travel-insurance/what-we-cover
2 Am I Covered For Motorcycle Riding? https://www.worldnomads.com/travel-safety/malaysia/do-i-need-a-license-to-ride-a-motorbike-in

How to take a songthaew?
❖ Stand still on a busy road long enough, and one will be along.
❖ Have a quick chat with the driver (they speak basic English).
❖ State your vague destination (i.e. “Chaweng”).
❖ Agree on the price.
❖ Then, hop in the back with your fellow passengers and off you go.
❖ When you want to get off, ring the bell inside.
❖ Clamber out and pay the agreed fare (try to have exact change). No tipping!
Note that the place-names on the front and back (e.g. Lamai/Nathon/Airport) often have little bearing on
the actual route or destination. Songthaews tend to be geographically ‘one size fits all’.
❖ An unlikely situation: If you’re a woman and board a songthaew with a monk inside, don’t sit
beside him. Women are not meant to touch monks.
RENTAL CAR
For comfort, safety and convenience (especially if coming

with children or elderly parents), we put car rental at the
top of the transport list. Certainly, as outlined above, you
don’t need to rent anything – but here’s what a car could
add to your trip:
❖ Peace of mind
❖ Air-conditioning
❖ Greater flexibility
❖ Rainy day transport
❖ Easy grocery shopping
You can rely on a hire car as much or as little as you like. The Bophut traffic lights (map page 115) –
widely used as a landmark for directions
How to book a rental car?
While you might want to get the rental car sorted out in advance, we recommend waiting until you’ve
arrived and settled into your accommodation. Business tends to be conducted in-person, and payments
(at small shops) are made in cash. Language barriers could preclude telephone arrangements. Our
suggestion? Sort out your airport transfer in advance, and let the rest fall into place once you’ve arrived,
had a shower, walked the beach and filled your empty bellies. Your two choices for renting a car:

❖ Koh Samui Airport, at your typical Hertz/Budget/Avis/National counter. While it’s convenient,
you may not want to navigate an unknown island after a long flight, and picking it up may involve
a long wait. Rates aren’t very competitive, though they do offer a larger choice of vehicle.
❖ Local, independent shop in any town high street. These places can appear a little dodgy, but
rates tend to be lower and are negotiable, especially in slower seasons.
While you might find comfort in a known brand, we’ve had “please wait a few minutes” experiences at
both the corporate rental and the local shops – where “please wait a few minutes” means “and wait a few
more... and a few more... and we don’t really know where the car you booked is, or when it’s coming
back”…. Lesson One: This cannot be expedited! Welcome to Thailand. Take off your watch and just go
with it. (Get more cultural primers on page 172).
Car selection?
Amongst the standard rental car fleet, compacts are automatic and Suzuki
jeeps are manual (stick-shift). Big, corporate rental agencies have a wider
selection. Note that some cars have seat-belts and air bags, and some
don’t. (Likewise for comforts such as air-conditioning and stereos). Finding
the car with the features you require may take more shopping around but
they do exist!
Some rental agencies do have car seats available, though we imagine

they’re the exception. You might want to bring your own if this is a concern. Sample rental car and bike selection
Car hire contact details?
We haven’t provided such details, as shops open and close with great frequency and the “place that has
the good new car” might sell it for a fleet of scooters overnight. To book a rental car, simply walk from
your hotel along the nearest main road. Few shop-fronts go for aesthetic expenditure, but this island is
very well stocked to supply its visitors’ needs. You’ll easily find a car rental shop – it’s likely to be a
combined operation: a car/scooter hire, laundry service and travel agent in one.
Rental procedure?
❖ Pick your car. Ensure it has a licence plate/number plate.
❖ Confirm the price. A local, independent shop will often quote a per-day price. If you’re renting for
longer than 2-3 days, try to negotiate a better rate (especially in low season) – about 1,300-1,500
THB in our experience (minivans are approximately 2,500 THB per day).
❖ Confirm that your car has insurance. In Thailand, the car is insured, not the driver.
❖ Sign a lease agreement, which includes the insurance.
❖ Provide your driving licence and passport. You’ll likely be asked to leave your passport behind as
collateral, as it’s obviously the strongest security for the owner – the thing you’ll most want to get
back. It’s an uncomfortable thing to part with, although it’s fairly standard practice. You might be
able to leave another form of deposit or suffice with a passport photocopy – worth inquiring
about if you aren’t thrilled about handing over your passport, perhaps.
❖ Note their opening/closing hours and get the shop’s contact details. Take their business card or
mobile number in case you need to get in touch.

Do you need an international driver’s licence?
As far as we’re aware, the International Driving Permit (IDP)1 is just a translation of your home licence. Our
Thailand car rental experience to date (including rentals from fairly major rental agencies - e.g. Hertz,
Avis) has been on English language licenses and we’ve never needed one. We’re guessing that the big
agencies wouldn't allow you to do that unless it was legal to so (just a guess but definitely our
experience). That said, Thailand does legally recognise IDPs, and they aren’t difficult to get, so it’s
probably a good idea anyway, and especially so if your licence is in any language other than English.
Do you need GPS?
No, not if you’re just renting a car to explore Koh Samui (just use a paper map – they’re free and widely
available). We only recommend GPS (Garmin City Navigator Southeast Asia2 , specifically) if you’re
planning a Thailand road trip or will be driving around larger Thai cities like Bangkok.
❖ Ill-advised exploration: Roads on island maps can appear much more substantial than they
actually are. Though it’s hard to get lost circling the ring road and main corollaries, take
extreme caution heading down small roads or dirt lanes into the interior. It’s a very big jungle.
Where do you buy gas/petrol?

Road side stalls sell 1-litre bottles – convenient, though more expensive. A better choice are the full
service petrol stations dotted around. Prices range between 32-40 THB per litre (diesel is 40 THB). Make
sure the pump is zeroed at the start, and check the gas gauges on the pump and in your car before driving
away.
1 Hertz Thailand Rental Qualification : Minimum renter age is 21 years. *Must hold a valid Thai driving licence or a driving licence from a
renter’s country of residence (with an English translation), or an international driving licence. Must hold Passport/I.D. Card (Thai Residence
only). *A Canadian-English / US / UK / Aus / NZ licence would obviously meet the second requirement. http://www.hertzthailand.com/en/
terms.aspx
2 Garmin GPS for Thailand review: http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/gps-for-thailand-garmin-review

Where can you park on the island?
For the most part, you can park for free wherever there’s space along main roads. Central Festival Mall
(Chaweng) and The Wharf (Bophut) are unique for their enormous parking lots – help yourself to a free
space!
❖ Nap-time: Be sure to check for dogs and cats sleeping underneath before you drive away.
Koh Samui road rules?

❖ Drive on the left (as in the UK and Australia).
❖ You can turn left on a red light.
❖ Big trucks don’t always play nicely with others. If it’s bigger than you, it’s in charge.
❖ Unlike in certain Western countries, if you’re on a main road and waiting to turn, and an
oncoming car flashes you, he probably doesn’t mean “after you”. Our experience is that this
signal seems to mean the opposite in Thailand, and the car won’t be slowing down. Of course,
safest practice is simply to turn when it’s clear.
Traffic?
If possible, avoid the ring road (especially the north coast from Maenam through Bophut) between 4 pm -
6 pm. Weirdly, Samui has a rush hour. Thursday and Friday nights are particularly busy.
Will you get car culture shock?
It will depend what you’re used to. The working rules of Samui’s roads do have local nuance, and how
much they’ll surprise you is a matter of reference. Drivers coming from an orderly Western country might
find a bigger adjustment than those used to liberal safety interpretations elsewhere in the world. In
practice? If coming from Canada, buckle your seatbelt. If coming from China or India, you’ll find Samui
driving an orderly respite. Above all, be especially wary of scooters and motorbikes.
UNUSUAL THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR...
You’re not dreaming: A recent 2-hour drive around the island: man on scooter carrying handsaw, bad
scooter/car accident aftermath, eight-year-olds driving scooters, water buffalo on gravel verge ... and an
elephant in the back of a flatbed truck.
Other options?
Don’t want to drive, walk, scoot or negotiate rentals? Most every major attraction (i.e. those run for profit)
offers hotel pick-up services. Some even by speedboat! Otherwise, book a car or minibus with driver
through your hotel. You’ll pay, but won’t need to give transport a second thought.
❖ How to book an island tour? Details on page 114

SAFETY & SENSE || HOW TO STAY SAFE?
Samui is, for the most part, as safe as any holiday destination in the West. Common sense still certainly
applies, despite the pretty scenery. Be prudent, just as you would be at home.
HEALTH AND SAFETY FAQS
Is the water safe to drink?
No, not tap water. Everyone on the island drinks bottled water – delivered to hotels in big bottles by even
bigger trucks. Ice cubes are mass-produced as well, so no need to worry there. We brush our teeth (and
shower) in normal tap water – no need to emulate Bubble Boy, just avoid drinking full cupfuls.
Sun safety?
Koh Samui is mere degrees from the equator and its UV index1 is off the charts year-round. Even if you
“never burn” at home, respect Thailand’s sun. Wear SPF 30 – bare minimum, and preferably a large hat,
quality sunglasses and a UPF rash guard for enjoying any snorkelling or watersports (page 121).
Pick-pocketing and petty theft?
It’s not considered “a problem”, but never reason to walk around with an open handbag. Just to be sure,
lock up valuables in your hotel safe or luggage.
❖ Road accidents: The leading cause of injury on Samui is motorbike/scooter accidents. While a
quick and convenient way to get around, always wear a helmet, thicker clothing, and check
your mirrors! As an additional caution, Jeep ‘safari rides’ are popular with many Samui
visitors and the Jeeps have been modified with roof-top seats to maximise thrills. Add steep,
rutted jungle tracks and high speeds and you won’t be surprised that accidents and fatalities
are a far-too-frequent reality. Publicly, safer driving is being encouraged... but a cynic might
wonder what happens to the gas pedal once off the beaten track.
1 UV Index for Koh Samui: http://www.meteovista.com/Asia/Thailand/Sunpower-Koh-Samui/4952457

Beach safety at night?
Speaking for ourselves, if we were on a busier beach (i.e. with open restaurants and resorts), with another
person or a group, in a sober-ish state and a flashlight – we’d be happy to walk. Drunk, alone or in a
secluded area? That’s bad sense anywhere.
Safety when walking?
Exercise caution when walking along main roads at any time of day (traffic and potholes).
At night: Most beach towns have sidewalks though street lights and path lighting can be on the darker
side of sporadic. Elsewhere, given pot holes and erratic traffic, ideally you’d avoid being a nocturnal
pedestrian on roadsides entirely. Try to wear visible clothing and carry a pocket torch/flashlight (or put a
flashlight app on your phone). Women particularly should try to travel with a companion or in a group at
night.
❖ The experts’ guide to staying safe in Thailand: World Nomads Thailand Survival Guide (PDF)
TRAVEL INSURANCE
More than anything, make sure you’re travelling with valid travel insurance. Know what your policy covers
and where, in the case of rented transport, helmets and/or licenses, it might be voided. Also check that
your coverage offers emergency evacuation to Bangkok or your home country. We ourselves often use
World Nomads1 . They offer various levels of coverage depending where you live, how long you’re
travelling and your planned activities abroad. If you can’t decide, they’re quick to answer any questions.
MOSQUITOES
Mosquitoes can be an occasional pest but they’re not a plague. Koh Samui does not have malaria
concerns, but there are reported cases each year of dengue fever, or “dengue-lite” (symptoms of
headaches, fever and fatigue). A million-to-one, your experience is likely to be just a few red bites. For
prevention use a quick application of bug spray when you go outside – especially around your ankles and
knees (with a double dose in the evening). Buy repellent locally at pharmacies and sundry shops (‘Off!’ is
the most common brand).
How bad are the mosquitoes?
Totally depends where you’re sitting. Near stagnant water? You’ll find your ankles in a sorry state.
Elsewhere? Not a single winged beast. Use bug spray and they’re forgotten. Samui mosquito bites tend
not to itch, but leave skin dotted red. Pack a small tube of hydrocortisone cream as a quick fix (it’s hard to
find on Koh Samui).
1 World Nomads travel insurance: https://www.worldnomads.com

❖ Consider packing: Incognito DEET-free repellent (at Amazon UK) is magic
stuff: it’s totally natural and has extremely – insanely – high efficacy. Our
review* of Incognito has ‘tried and tested’ tips to successfully avoid
mosquitoes. Estimate one 100ml bottle of spray to last two people 7-10 days.
*http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/incognito-mosquito-repellent-review Incognito Anti-Mozzie Spray
Zika virus?
The following comes straight from Google; we ourselves are not medical professionals (merely copy-and-
pasters-of-the-Internet). That said, here’s a head-start to your own research (current as of March, 2016):
❖ Zika virus fact sheet (World Health Organization, March 2016)
❖ Separating fact from fear in the rise of Zika (Bangkok Post, 7 February 2016)
❖ Zika virus arrives in Thailand: medical advice for travellers (The Telegraph, 12 February 2016)
❖ Zika travel information (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, April 2016)
MEDICAL AND EMERGENCIES
Our family recently experienced a medical emergency on Koh Samui. Though we know the island and its
hospitals well (and have great insurance), the unexpected nature of such a thing was fairly traumatic.
While our beloved patient has made a full recovery, the event made us realise we’d missed some obvious
‘Just In Case’ preparation. We don’t mean to scare you – only to help you skip the more stressful aspects
of our experience should you ever require the insight. Here’s how to arrive in Thailand with total peace of
mind:
Being prepared: Why do you need to take the time?
Please understand that, while beautiful, Koh Samui is not the same as home. There is no ‘911’ or ‘999’
equivalent coordinated rescue service on the island and language barriers/location directions can
complicate existing services. Passersby might be interested in your situation, but Good Samaritans
shouldn’t be depended upon as they might be in the West. However, with a few preparations of your own,
rest assured it will be much easier to stay calm and in control of any unforeseen event.
What to do before you leave home?
1. Travel insurance: don’t skimp – It must include medevac coverage (to Bangkok as a minimum). As
mentioned previously, take the time to be sure your travel insurance covers what you need it to in terms
of transport (riding motorbikes/scooters), existing conditions and planned activities.

2. Put these numbers in your phone: We should have known better, but we didn’t have a single number
in our contact list when we needed them.
❖ Samui Rescue: 077-421-444 (English) A volunteer service equipped with Jaws of Life – this
is Samui’s closest version of all-purpose ambulance rescue. If required they will also contact
the (Thai-speaking) police. Samui Rescue also attends non-emergencies (like tourists getting
lost in the jungle 1).
❖ Your travel insurance provider’s emergency hotline
❖ Your preferred contact at home (friend or relative)
❖ Your hotel (or villa manager’s) direct line
❖ Your country’s embassy in Bangkok (emergency hotline)
❖ Tourist police: 1155 (English) You can also visit the tourist police at their stations in Nathon
or along the Bophut-Chaweng road.
❖ In our emergency, we found the closest Thai speaker and asked them to call an ambulance (as
they were better able to describe the location). Samui Rescue reached us first and we set off
for the closest hospital. Mid-way, we met the hospital’s ambulance and our patient was
transferred into their vehicle for direct transport. Alternatively, Samui Rescue will take you to
any hospital you request (Bangkok Hospital, near Chaweng Tesco, is considered the best).
3. Crucial documents: Lesson learned – our precious cargo couldn’t be admitted to hospital as a patient
until we could provide a passport copy and insurance details (although admin doesn’t delay
emergency treatment if required). While we had these on a mobile phone, the phone was nearly dead
and we didn’t know its lock code. Print hard copies of these important things and make sure they’ll be on
your person at all times – perhaps in your wallet or bag. As a back-up, have them downloaded to your
mobile (not stored in the cloud). Make sure to have each other’s documents on your own respective
phones, too. The more ways to get at this stuff at a critical time, the better.
4. Carry extra mobile charge: Previously we’d recommended packing an external phone charger in case
your Instagram ran out of juice. After our recent experience with a dead phone meant we couldn’t call
relatives with updates from the ER – we won’t be travelling without extra phone power ever again. Finally,
make sure your phone is able to make overseas calls if necessary. Some carriers block this capability
when you travel as a cost-saving courtesy.
❖ Consider packing: Anker Lipstick-Sized Portable External Battery Charger (at Amazon) adds
a full charge to an iPhone, Android and tablets. Weighs 3 ounces.
5. Have a quick chat: Whether you’re travelling as a couple, in a group or with children – have a quick
chat with each other (before the departure gate cocktails) about your ‘just in case’ plans and preferences.
1 Samui Rescue locate two lost tourists: http://www.samuitimes.com/samui-rescue-locate-two-tourists-lost-in-the-mountains

HOSPITALS, CLINICS AND PHARMACIES
Samui has excellent medical care in the form of three hospitals:
❖ Bangkok Hospital Samui1 (widely considered the best)
❖ Bandon International Hospital (fine for antibiotics and superficial wounds)
❖ Samui International Hospital2 (as above, more of a clinic)
Pharmacies are easy to find, including British chain Boots (at Tesco and in Chaweng), and a local chain,
Morya, that exclusively employs English-speaking licensed pharmacists.
Vaccinations?
Check what your country’s relevant health authority currently recommends regarding vaccinations for
Thailand travel. As much of your time will be spent in flip-flops, we’d particularly recommend making sure
that your tetanus booster is up to date.
OCEAN SAFETY
To be slightly pedantic, do take great care when swimming in the ocean. Undertows and strong
currents 3 are common, as (very unfortunately) are drowning accidents. Large beaches or resorts might
put out coloured flags to indicate swimming safety, but elsewhere on the island you’re left to your own
judgement. Samui doesn’t have beach lifeguards (unless specific resorts employ them, though we’ve
never seen one), nor do hotels tend to have pool lifeguards. Take care when entering the sea, particularly
following storms, as box jellyfish4 and other nasties, though rare, are known in the area.
Flags on some (not all) beaches note whether it’s safe to swim
1 Bangkok Hospital Samui: http://bangkokhospitalsamui.com/index.php?lang=en
2 Samui International Hospital: http://www.sih.co.th
3 Rip tides and Samui beaches: http://samui-weather.blogspot.ca/2013/11/rip-tides-and-samui-beaches-during.html
4 Box jellyfish on Koh Samui: http://samui-weather.blogspot.ca/2012/07/box-jelly-fish-on-koh-samui-and-rest-of.html

WILDLIFE AWARENESS
Those used to life in the tropics will easily adjust – but if you’re coming from a place with little to sting
you, we’ll add a brief word: tropical insect and reptile life is abundant in the jungly insides of Samui.
Samui’s flora and fauna can be beautiful, exotic and exciting, but a few rare species can be dangerous.
Snakes: While they will generally avoid human habitation, Samui has a few species of venomous snakes.
(We’ve seen five snakes in 13 years – all deep in the jungle where they belong – and didn’t get close
enough to tell you whether or not they were venomous, but odds are they weren’t). If you stick to the
beaten path, you won’t see them, but it’s never a good idea to stick your hand in vegetation, or wander
off into undergrowth. When walking in untrodden areas, make lots of noise, and be sure to wear proper
shoes and full-length trousers. A few Koh Samui Guide readers have reported fleeting and far-away
monitor lizard sightings1 , also not a creature you’d want to cuddle.
Scorpions, centipedes and other insects: Pick your shoes up and give them a good shake before sliding
your feet in – scorpions, though rare, aren’t unknown. (Another endorsement for flip-flops!) We generally
assume that bushes can bite back.
Left to right: pandanus fruit, jungle path and a tokay
Geckos: You’ll almost certainly see small geckos on walls and ceilings (especially at night) – they’re
welcome friends: they eat mosquitos! A bigger, spotted gecko is the tokay (pronounced ‘took oy’) – he’s
shy but can bite if cornered, so leave him well alone. If you hear a rubber duck squeaking noise – that’s a
tokay (it’s unmistakable); a ‘hee haw’ or clicking sound is a gecko. Other than that, your only wildlife
concerns are the occasional mosquito and falling in love with a local dog.
Wild fruit: Avoid the temptation to eat wild fruit; if it looks like a mango, it probably isn’t. (There’s much
more delicious fruit waiting on page 96).
1 Monitor lizards on Koh Samui: http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/koh-samui-monitor-lizards

THAI CULTURE & SAMUI SIGHTS ||
WHAT TO EXPECT?
Thailand is a Buddhist country, and visitors should understand that its visible expressions are a reflection
of how sincerely Buddhist beliefs are revered – certainly not just for the benefit of holiday snapshots.
What’s a wai?
The first thing you will notice on arrival in Samui is the traditional Thai greeting, or wai. As you might
shake hands with a client, or wave to a neighbour, in Thailand the wai is customary. This involves placing
the palms of both hands together, with fingertips pointing upwards near the chin, followed by a slight
bow. It is an expression of respect and, generally speaking, the deeper the bow, the more respect is
accorded. There’s a lot of subtlety in the wai so, chances are, you’re not going to get it right. At a
minimum, when someone wais to you, acknowledge the gesture with a kind smile and a nod. If you
choose to return the greeting, your best efforts will be appreciated.
❖ How to wai: Learn Thai greetings and how to wai [YouTube video]
❖ Exceptions: There’s no need to wai to a child, or anyone who’s clearly younger than you –
Baby Boomers, you’re increasingly in the clear! To fellow farangs? Just don’t do it.
People-watching: It’s very interesting to watch Thais greet each other and observe the great subtlety in
this respectful gesture. Hotel or restaurant staff will be happy to teach you (and certainly your children).
Just ask!
MONEY AND TIPPING
The Thai currency is the baht (THB). Unlike Laos and Cambodia, you won’t be able to pay with foreign
currencies, such as U.S. dollars – only baht is accepted. Bureaux de change and ATMs are however widely
available throughout Samui (including at Koh Samui Airport, in the arrivals area).

There’s no need to travel into Thailand with baht, unless you’d find it more
convenient. Perhaps exchange a small amount before you leave. It will get you
on the beach more quickly, as most restaurants and cafés are cash-only.
❖ What does ‘++’ mean? You might see this designation on hotel and
high-end restaurant pricing. It means the given price is exclusive of
the establishment’s service charge (typically 10%), then government
Sunset snacks at Belmond Napasai
tax (7% VAT) on top. (page 22)
Tipping?
Americans – put that 20% back in your pocket. Tipping is a new practice in Thailand, and certainly hasn’t
reached the levels of the West. Taxi drivers, bellboys and other staff certainly won’t expect it, and it may
even embarrass them. Upmarket or hotel restaurants may add a service charge or gratuity to your bill, but
smaller establishments certainly won’t. Discreet tipping at these restaurants for lunch or dinner is
common and would be appreciated. 10 baht per head is fairly standard.
YOUR FEET IN THAILAND
In Thailand, feet are (quite rightly) considered dirty and it’s commonplace to remove your shoes outside
homes and some shops. Similarly, it’s polite to keep them much more tucked away than we’re used to in
casual or comfortable Western settings. As using (or misusing) your feet is one of the easiest ways to
cause offence in Thailand, we’ll quickly run through ‘Feet 101’.
❖ Start practicing now: Using your feet to point to anything, or push something around is
considered incredibly rude in Thailand – but just try to stop yourself. We shut cupboard doors,
grab for our shoes, and use our feet much more than we realise. Refraining from doing so is
perhaps the hardest “don’t” for Westerners; we ‘gesture’ with our feet constantly. Even if you
know not to, it’s still hard to catch yourself. Try to get in the habit of ‘no feet’ a few weeks
before you leave for Thailand. Have children? They might enjoy policing you!
Where to keep your feet?

Be mindful when you “try to get a little more comfortable”. Don’t stick your feet out as you relax at a café
table (worse – don’t put them on the table). Instead, keep them tucked away and on the floor. If you’re
sitting on the floor, tuck them beneath you or beside you, away from those nearby.
Putting your feet up to relax?
Basic rule: If it’s a piece of furniture meant for feet or lying down upon, go ahead and kick back. Stretching
out on a pool bed is fine, but sticking your feet in the air on an airport bench, or resting them on a coffee
table, is not.

WHERE AND WHEN TO TAKE OFF YOUR SHOES
As a new arrival to Thailand, you might be surprised to see piles of flip-flops outside homes and small
shops. Again, feet are considered dirty – so shoes stay outside. Arriving aware of this practice is an easy
way to earn favourite farang status, country-wide.
Where to take off your shoes? Certainly when visiting homes and places with a more personal
connection – like a family-owned business or small shop. If cleanliness is important to the shop’s image,
like an optometrist, it’s likely to be shoes-off as well. The same applies for visiting temples and religious
sites.
Where to keep your shoes on? Chain stores, malls, corporations – like the supermarket, 7-Eleven,
restaurants, etc. Basically anywhere with high foot traffic and/or the likelihood of broken glass! Note that
rules can differ slightly in busy Bangkok, but the above holds true on sleepy Samui.
While some shops put signs on the doors saying yes/no shoes, if you’re ever left wondering, just stick your
head inside and ask before your enter – it will be so appreciated that you care about this particular Thai
custom. If it sounds confusing, you’ll very quickly get the hang of it and it will become second nature in no
time. The on/off nature of footwear (not to mention the heat) is why flip-flops are the #1 type of shoe to
bring to Samui.
Sign at Big Buddha: “Please polite

dressing. Please take off your shoes”
3 DO’S AND 3 DON’TS IN THAILAND
New country, new customs – so many ways you can embarrass yourself and others. Thais are very used to
foreigners – especially so on Koh Samui. While they’re a forgiving lot, you’ll do yourself (and your
country’s good name) a big favour to learn these easy Thai cultural ‘dos’ and ‘don’ts’.

What to do?
❖ Extend great respect to the monarchy.
❖ Keep your patience and stay calm, no matter what – this is the land of happy, go lucky.
❖ Dress properly when visiting temples – shoulders and knees covered for both sexes.
❖ Find out what to wear to visit temples, page 66
What not to do?

❖ Don’t touch anyone’s head – not even children. It’s the most important part of the body.
❖ Don’t point. Gesture to something, if necessary, with all four fingers extended and the thumb
flat against the palm, rather like a traffic cop.
❖ Don’t expose yourself or sunbathe topless. Soooo not ok. Note that breastfeeding falls in this
category, and should be done out of public view.
Give yourself huge kudos for doing this research – you’ll soon see that many tourists to Thailand haven’t.
❖ Fascinating reading: For a thorough primer on Thai culture,

we really recommend Do’s and Don’ts in Thailand
(Kindle book at Amazon.com)
BEGGING, SCAMS AND UNWANTED ATTENTION
Begging is practically unknown on Samui. If you do encounter a beggar, it’s best to politely refrain, and
quietly move on. While not exactly begging, two types of Samui touts are best quickly dispatched – that is,
if you’re not interested in buying timeshares or new suits.
Scams?
In 13 years, we ourselves nor any of our friends or family have seen or experienced an outright scam on
Samui (other than the very occasional waiter who “forgets” to bring change). However, for utmost
disclosure, we’ve read of three local variations on timeless tourist trickery. These involve (A) jet-ski
rentals and damage deposit disputes, (B) savvy Thai children betting (presumably drunk) guys at
Connect Four, and (C) “tour guides” appearing out of thin air to announce that a major attraction is
closed but, conveniently, their friend’s shop is open. You would have seen them coming anyway, right?

“Where are you from?”
You might find that you’re approached once or twice by farangs on scooters, who almost always begin
with – “Where are you guys from?” They’ll look like tourists, and it won’t quite make sense. These
unscrupulous types are few, but will try to chat you into parting with your money – usually by buying a
timeshare. The best course of action is to ignore them or pretend you don’t speak English. Like bad pop
music, they’ll go away eventually.
“Hello my friend, want a new shirt, new suit?“
On the subject of getting into a conversation you’ll never get out of, we’ll mention Samui’s most earnest
businessmen: its non-native tailors. There are dozens of tailor shops around the island, and their
proprietors sit outside ready to make new friends. Once they’ve got you talking, it’s very difficult to part
ways – whether or not you’ve any interest in a new suit or skirt. The best, polite approach? Be nice, return
their friendly hello, adding an immediate “no thank you” – and keep walking. There’s neither reason to be
rude nor feel guilty – there’ll be another farang along in a minute. Of course, if you do want a new suit…
❖ How to buy clothes at a Koh Samui tailor, page 143
LANGUAGE
Can you get by with English?
Is your Thai language ability rusty to non-existent? If you have even basic English, communication on the
island will not be a problem. The service industry on Samui has been learning English in earnest, and
stands ready to impress. From the airport, taxis and car rental, to hotels, ordering food and booking tours
– you’ll be able to communicate in English with almost everyone you meet. You may find restaurants in
larger beach towns, like Chaweng and Bophut, also have menus translated into German, French, Russian
and Chinese but coverage is fairly patchy.
Learning Thai?
While Samui is certainly convenient – it’s very kind of our hosts to speak our language – learning even a
few words of Thai is appreciated tremendously. Start now? Learn “hello” and “thank you” in Thai before
you’ve stepped off the plane:
❖ Hello: Sa-wa-dee-kaa is “hello” if you’re female, and sa-wa-dee-krup if you’re male (we’ll
give you a hint – only the suffix differs!).
❖ Thank you: translates to ka-phun-kaa for female speakers, and ka-phun-krup for males.
Wait-staff will be only too happy to help you pick up a few new words and phrases. Unlike many
parts of Asia, Thais prefer to teach you their language than pester for English tips.

How do you spell...
There’s no standard method to write Thai words in the Latin alphabet (whereas Chinese has pinyin, for
example), so you might see sawadee (“hello”) written any number of ways. If you want to take notes, feel
free to write it down as you hear it!
Thai language lessons
Knowing just a handful of Thai phrases will enhance your visit to Thailand a thousand-fold.
To download: Learn Thai Podcast (LTP) – Download the free holiday Thai lessons from LTP (linked
below) and see if you like it enough to continue with the paid course (which should get you more or less
conversational). We’re slowly working through the latter and highly recommend it.
❖ Free holiday lessons: 11 lessons, mp3 and PDF downloads
❖ Premium course: 5-year access to 800 lessons (+ suggested 1-year curriculum)
On Koh Samui: At Mind Your Language 1, take a private intro lesson (at their schools or a location of
your choosing) or, on a longer stay, enroll in a 2-month group course. Head teacher Jom has perfect
English and makes the experience thoroughly enjoyable. (Bophut and Lamai locations).
One to ten written in Thai
DOGS ON KOH SAMUI
When you drive from the airport, you might be surprised to see dogs going about their day – walking
along the roadside, or sleeping in the dust. Are they stray dogs? Beach dogs? Pet dogs? Samui’s dogs are
a noticeable population, but they won’t feature in your holiday unless you seek them out. ‘Stray’ doesn’t
really translate, as these aren’t dogs particularly looking for human affection or an indoor home. Nor are
they wild. They’re just… Samui specials. Fairly independent with an uncanny sense for traffic, these dogs
are familiar faces around the community. (Locally they’re called ‘soi’ dogs, which means street – they
tend not to venture very far from home turf, and are able to sleep soundly, inches from the street).
1 Mind Your Language: http://www.mindyourlanguagethailand.com

Who looks after them? Behind everything good for animal welfare on Koh Samui is the chronically-
underfunded Dog and Cat Rescue Samui (DCRS)1 . Today they operate from sites in Chaweng and
Taling Ngam, providing animal rescue, veterinary clinic and shelter services. After neutering over 13,000
animals between 1999-2012, there are 10 times fewer dogs on the island today than when they began.
❖ Is there rabies on Koh Samui? Since 1999, DCRS has been giving island dogs a range of health
treatments including rabies vaccinations, mange treatment, de-worming and first aid. Thanks
to their efforts, rabies on Koh Samui has been all but eliminated.
Should you feed Samui dogs? Can you pet them? As total dog lovers – we don’t. Our view is that
teaching a dependency on us (tourists who will leave in short order) doesn’t do them any favours. It could
also habituate a dog to return to wherever you’ve fed it, causing problems and confusion when non-dog-
loving tourists arrive. (If you see a dog in particular distress, call DCRS who will dispatch a team to collect
it). Instead, DCRS donations are encouraged.
Dogs with collars: These dogs have owners, but still tend to entertain themselves. Instead of ‘owner’
think more along the lines of ‘fairly disinterested babysitter’. Many restaurants and small hotels have their
own collared dogs and cats ambling around (and such pets are a good indication that the premises is
kind to animals), but strays aren’t allowed on site.
If you’re scared of dogs: Can you handle mutual ignoring? Dogs on the beach are very easily avoided,
they spend 99% of their time sleeping or trotting elsewhere on Official Dog Business. Unless you make
earnest invitations to feed them sausages, they won’t come near you. You might occasionally see a pack
chasing off a new dog, but such spats are short-lived. As for a restaurant or hotel pet, he’ll be shooed
away if you indicate to staff that you don’t want him near. Tourists come higher in the pecking order.
1 Dog and Cat Rescue Samui: http://www.samuidog.org

PACKING || WHAT TO BRING?
Packing for any trip is a headache, even more so when you’ve never been to the destination and have
questions about culture, climate and possible activities. Hopefully these suggestions will make short
work of packing – such that the entire contents of your suitcase prove useful, and you don’t spend your
holiday thinking “I wish I’d brought my _______ !”.
TOILETRIES TO PACK
For a small island, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the range and availability of many things. Every beach
town or local high street has one or more pharmacies and shops stock all manner of goods, including
personal toiletries and general medicines. Find dental floss, Q-tips, cough drops, baby supplies, etc.
(Need Berocca? It’s at Boots!).
If you have a specific product for any purpose, bring it. If you’re flexible with your bits and bobs – if
sunscreen is sunscreen, and toothpaste is toothpaste – buy it on Samui.
❖ Beware of whitening cosmetics: Many cosmetics sold in Thailand have whitening ingredients,
even in the brands you recognise from home.
How to avoid mosquito bites?

Religious dedication to your repellent of choice (ours is Incognito 1 – a totally natural brand we can’t
recommend highly enough). Remember to bring your repellent with you and top up throughout the day,
especially around sunset. In addition to a spray repellent, you can increase your chances of a bite-free
holiday with the following – all of them DEET-free:
1 Incognito: Not only does the stuff work – REALLY work – but they’re a totally ethical company, too – no animal testing, solar-powered
offices, electric vehicles, 10% of profits to environmental charities and on and on. Seriously the good guys!

invisaband bracelets Incognito loofah soap Mosqui-Go Duo
❖ invisaband bracelets: If you’re lazy or forgetful, invisabands might be the perfect mosquito
solution to put protection ‘up your sleeve’. 100% natural.
❖ Incognito Luxury Loofah Soap: A fantastic piece of magic. Apparently mosquitoes love the
chemical combos found near dead skin cells, so exfoliating is upper-level genius. The loofah
contains a bar of mosquito-repelling natural soap within, which we found lasted about two
weeks with daily use. 100% natural.
❖ Mosqui-Go Duo: A plug-in deterrent for your hotel room (with a plug that fits Thai plugs).
Contains prallethrin 1 1.17%
Though local lemongrass formulas and ‘Off!’ brand sprays are available (at every 7-Eleven and corner
shop), we really recommend that you bring at least some mosquito repellent from home so you’re ready
right away (especially if you’re staying more than a short walk from a chemist/pharmacy).
Can you buy sunscreen easily?
While local chemists/pharmacies have a fantastic selection of many things, sunscreen selection is limited.
You’ll find predominantly Nivea and Banana Boat brands, in a limited selection of SPF numbers and at
higher prices than at home (approximately 180% more expensive, when we compared Samui supplies to
Amazon). Have sensitive skin, need extra waterproofing or choosy about fragrance? Pack your own .
A typical stretch of the ring road near a

larger beach (Bophut, in this case)
4 shops out of 4 sell a limited selection of

mosquito repellent and sunscreen.
It’s usually more expensive than in

Western shops, though!
1
2 3 4
1 Mosqui-Go Duo prallethrin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prallethrin

What’s not available or can be hard to find:
❖ Brand-name cosmetics: Central Festival mall has Laura Mercier and other faves.
❖ Western hair products: Most shampoo/conditioner is formulated for Asian hair types.
❖ Deodorant: Only roll-on and antiperspirants are available.
❖ Tampons: Boots sell their own and OB brands in small boxes and a limited selection. Tesco and
Tops Market tend to “have what they have” without much reliability.
❖ Electronic toothbrush heads: Toothbrush technology hasn’t reached Samui.
❖ Razor blades: Most shops sell men’s Gillette blades, though women’s blades are rare (or for
outdated models).
❖ Hydrocortisone cream: Always good to have, but not widely sold on Samui.
❖ Green/natural toiletries: Some boutiques and spa shops offer local coconut and lemongrass
products (soaps and insect repellent particularly) but contents are of course listed in Thai.
Selection is growing but has nothing on a North American Whole Foods.
Left to right: The Body Shop at Central Festival,

typical sunscreen selection, one of Samui’s well-
stocked pharmacies
SHOES TO PACK
Flip-flops (or your preferred equivalent): THE choice for Samui footwear (barring rainy season, temple
visits, dressy destinations). Bring a comfy, quality pair and all but live in them. It’s too hot for socks, and
you take your shoes off before entering homes, temples, and many shops. Given the heat and this cultural
custom, no other type of shoe beats their slip-on immediacy. If you don’t like flip-flops or find them
uncomfortable, just apply the same logic to something similar – as long as it slips off easily.

ideal when your feet
swell in the heat slip on and off
wedges
not heels
PROBABLY
perfect MAYBE
in/on water
DEFINITELY
MAYBE
Flip-flops: Yoga flip-flops + Havaianas | Slip-on shoes: Huarache flats + Beach Line boat shoes
Adventure shoes: Teva water shoes + Universal sandals | Dressy shoes: Wedges + Sperry Top-Siders
(Shoes via Amazon)
❖ Shoe shopping: There are various shoe shops at Central Festival mall. However, if your feet
are bigger than ‘Thai size’ (U.S. 9+ for women or Euro 39/40, slightly bigger for men) it can be
hard to find your size.
Flat, slip-on shoes (Boat shoes, TOMs, ballet flats, loafers): As with flip-flops, you want something that’s
easy to slip on and off. Sorry to say, the best answer might be Crocs. They perform quadruple duty:
they’re appropriate for temples, safe on slippery surfaces, comfy on rocky beaches and can handle
torrential rain without consequence. Year-round, they’re ideal for kids who can’t manage flip-flops.
Fashion police? Try the ‘Beach Line Boat Shoes’.
❖ Thailand’s heat will make your feet swell. Make sure any shoes you bring can be adjusted for
size. If they’re snug at home, they won’t fit in Thailand. Don’t pack any shoes that have laces
and neither will socks be required. Shoes are taken off outside homes and many shops.
Something for adventures (Sneakers, trainers, running shoes, or ‘hiking sandals’): If you’re hoping to get
a bit adventurous, you’ll want something that’s non-slip and will stay on your feet. Your itinerary will
determine whether sturdy sandals will be enough (or whether a light-weight, protective hiking shoe is
more appropriate). Whatever its structure, it should pack light, provide excellent grip and deal well with
water (both in it and drying quickly afterwards).
Dressier shoes (Sparkly sandals/wedges or loafers/boat shoes): Do you need dressier shoes? It depends
what you have planned! Generally not, but Koh Samui has great high-end dining with matching dress
codes. However, don’t bring high heels. Samui has fairly uneven pavement (and very slick surfaces when
it rains), which make heels a dangerous proposition. Nice sandals or wedges are preferable as a dressy
option.

WHAT TO WEAR ON KOH SAMUI?
Bar-girls and lady-boys aside, Thailand is a modest country. Think a PG-13 corner of Utah on a very hot
day. Despite the well-known scenes at certain Bangkok and Pattaya bars, Thai people overwhelmingly
dress to conceal – and not simply because they can wear jeans in 30°C/86°F without feeling the heat.
❖ Choosing between two similar items to pack? Pick the lighter fabric, or the more modest
coverage for Thailand.
What fabrics are best?

Owing to both high heat and humidity, where possible, choose clothes of light-weight linen, cotton, rayon
or silk – the thinner the better! We ourselves tend to live in linen, head to toe. If you’re packing skirts or
dresses, double check that any lining isn’t polyester. If so, leave it behind. In Thailand it’s as good as
wearing a Ziplock bag.
❖ Leave jeans at home. On all but the coolest of rainy season days it’s just too hot.
THE KOH SAMUI DRESS CODE
The typical Thai dresses modestly, often keeping knees and shoulders covered. Rules are bent for tourists
– this is a relaxed resort island – and shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops are the local uniform. Still – a huge
emphasis is placed on appearance. Being clean and well put-together is highly valued. As for dress code,
there are no actual rules; Thais are used to under-dressed foreigners. However, staying ‘more covered
than not’ will be appreciated. Just choose clothes that hit closer to your knees than anatomy in the
opposite direction.
Though regrettable, the occasional failure by a farang to observe Thai norms can be the source of painful
amusement. We’ve seen a grown woman change out of her swimsuit in the middle of a restaurant, and
another shopping in village boutiques wearing nothing but a thong bikini. It’s an unfortunate irony that
you can cross the world and be most shocked by your own compatriots.
Contextually, the following dress codes apply:
To visit temples?
The basic rule is to cover your shoulders and knees (both sexes), and ideally you’d cover your ankles too.
That’s not to say all tourists adhere, but we give you the “model citizen’s best practice”. If the dress code
sounds too hot, just schedule your visits early in the morning.
❖ Top: Any shirt that fully covers your shoulders, such as a t-shirt or polo. However, a pashmina/
scarf around bare shoulders (or as a makeshift long skirt) is acceptable.
❖ Bottom: Longer shorts or trousers, or a knee-length-or-longer skirt or dress.
❖ Shoes: Closed-toe shoes are more appropriate, whether loafers, flats or canvas TOMs.

mosquito-repelling UPF 50+
cover-up
packable for temples
wicking
a little modest
linen
Women’s dress, Panama hat, bikini, scarf, T-shirt, linen shorts

Men’s UPF sun-hat, T-shirts, linen shirt and shorts, swim trunks
+ mosquito-repelling wristbands (Clothing via Amazon)
What to wear on the beach? (and off)
Bikinis are fine for women (top and bottom), as are normal swimming trunks for men. However,
standards of modesty that might scintillate in the French Riviera won’t fly in Thailand. Although Thai
hosts might not vocally complain about a woman’s bare chest, their silence is a result of embarrassment,
and improper dress is deeply offensive.
❖ (Women’s) topless sunbathing is an absolute no-no (as is breast-feeding in public).
Off the beach: Just like at home, beach manners and attire should be left at the beach. When you leave
the beach to eat in an adjacent restaurant, cover up with shorts, t-shirts, or a sun dress.
Around the island?
Whether shopping, sight-seeing, in a restaurant or at a bar, wear real clothes rather than your swim suit.
Certainly casual summer clothes are the norm, but both sexes (including children) should wear shirts and
modest bottom coverage. Yoga pants, leggings or men’s gym shorts are great to wear for Thai massages
as they’ll neither constrict you nor parade your parts mid-massage.
❖ While your fellow tourists will provide every example to the contrary, you’ll get better service if
you look decently ‘put together’.

At night?
❖ Casual (Beach and hole-in-the-wall restaurants, most island bars and walking streets): Recycle
the sun dress/shorts/flip-flops that got you to and from the beach earlier that day. Thanks to the
island’s many laundry services, it will probably be an ironed t-shirt!
❖ Dressy (Nice restaurants and upscale resorts):
❖ Women: If Kate Middleton wore similar in Singapore or the Solomon Islands, then you’re on
the right track. Meaning? Easy-breezy-beautiful and no cleavage. Cleavage isn’t displayed in
upstanding parts of Thailand (though there’s plenty of chance to head elsewhere).
❖ Men: To set yourself apart from “those” tourists, don’t wear shorts to ‘nice’ places at night.
You can, and many do, but Thai guys in nice venues don’t. Instead, wear long trousers/pants
(not jeans) and a collared shirt (with the buttons done up, not flapping open bare-chested).
No flip-flops or sandals but, instead, a slip-on shoe like loafers or boat shoes.
Sun hat?
The bigger the brim, the better. Ideally, bring yours from home as roadside beach shops have limited
sizes and styles. However, new malls in Chaweng and Bophut might save the day.
❖ Pack lightly: Laundry is easy – Hotels, villas and bungalows usually have laundry services.
Otherwise, there’s a laundry shop on every corner of the island. Drop off your washing and pick
it up when instructed, usually the next day. Strangely, they always know exactly whose washing
belongs to whom – with no receipts exchanged. Prices: 30-40 THB/kg for washing, or 60-70 THB
for ironing. Expect a plastic bag full of clothes to cost approx. US$4-6/£3-4.
WHAT TO WEAR IN RAINY SEASON?
Samui is coolest in November through early January (though cooler never means “cold”, just “less hot”). If
packing for this period, bring a cardigan, sweater or light jacket. As for rain gear, ponchos are readily
available and resorts have umbrellas for guest use (rainy season details, page 10).
Fabrics for rainy season: At this time of year, pack quicker-drying or wicking fabrics like polyester, nylon,
and linen (our favourite fabric for the tropics, year-round). Avoid packing denim, cotton (especially if it’s
thick), and anything absorbent including rayon, lyocell, tencel, etc. As a test, the next time you take a load
of clothes out of the washing machine, consider which you’d rather wear right away. It won’t be your
jeans!
What shoes to wear in rainy season? Although flip-flops are a perfect choice the rest of the year, during
rainy season Samui becomes a slippery banana peel. Flip-flops can be downright dangerous. Instead
choose Crocs or sturdy, slip-proof hiking sandals.

ELECTRONICS
Do you need a travel adapter?
Maybe, maybe not! Thai sockets will fit two plug types:
For plug shape, the U.S., Canada and parts of Europe use the same sockets as
Thailand (2 flat blades or 2 round pins), whereas the UK and other corners or the
world have different plugs and will likely need a travel adapter. However, even if
your plugs match those in Thailand, pack a “just in case” universal adapter in
your carry-on (bound to earn its place when you have a 3rd country layover and a
dead laptop).
❖ For UK to Thailand: This travel adapter converts UK plugs to both kinds

used in Thailand and also includes 2 USB ports (at Amazon.co.uk).
UK to Thailand travel adapter
Voltage?
Thailand’s mains sockets run at 220 volts. If your home country uses 110 volts (U.S. and Canada), note
that many items such as laptops, Kindles, cameras and mobiles are dual-voltage and will work in
Thailand. Check labels in advance and, if in doubt, leave them at home.uk)
Is there good WiFi?

Yes! Many cafés, restaurants and hotels offer free WiFi. Internet speeds tend to be pretty good – you can
expect quick(ish) downloads, and can Skype and watch Netflix and YouTube with fair reliability.
Mobile phones?
On arrival, easily connect your unlocked phone with a local phone

number and pay-as-you-go SIM card (with or without data). Your 2
easiest options:
❖ Koh Samui Airport: As you walk towards the arrivals area,

you’ll find a kiosk with Thai phone companies. We’ve never
tried this option, but they look very eager to assist.
❖ At a convenience store: Pop into Family Mart or 7-Eleven

(there’s one on every corner), or a phone shop in the Tesco
It’s easy to get a pay-as-you-go SIM
complex or Chaweng’s Central Festival. If you’d like help
setting it up, ask a staff member to do it for you.
❖
❖ Consider packing: A “lipstick-sized” External Battery Charger (at Amazon.com) – Really useful if
you’ll be out exploring all day, or away from safe or convenient places to charge your device.

YOUR ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE ||
WHAT TO KNOW?
HOW TO GET TO KOH SAMUI?
The cheap way (ferry): Ferry service runs to Koh Samui from the mainland, at Donsak. It’s a time vs cost
equation; there are more relaxing ways of taking to the Samui seas. Travellers stretching a budget might
choose to fly into the closest mainland airport, Surat Thani International Airport (‘URT’). Then, take a
bus plus a ferry to Samui (a journey of approximately two and a half hours). Ferry/bus ticket combos can
often be purchased in advanced through the airline, or on the plane itself (failing that, it’s easily arranged
at Surat Thai airport).
The convenient way (fly): Samui is a short one-hour plane ride from Bangkok – barely time to enjoy an
in-flight sandwich and the sea views below. Bangkok Airways flies most often (they own Koh Samui
Airport), though Thai Airlines, Air Asia and Firefly all offer routine service to ‘USM’. Flights to and from
Bangkok are by far the most frequent, but you can also fly directly from Phuket, Pattaya, Hong Kong,
Singapore and other Asian hubs.
OVERNIGHT AT BANGKOK SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT (BKK)
If you need to overnight in BKK at any point in your journey (and just want to sleep, not sight-see), the
Novotel Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport is by far your quickest route to a bed.
Arriving: The Novotel desk is just to the right of Door 4 in the arrivals hall. If you’ve
booked even a few hours in advance they’ll be waiting for you with an instant shuttle
transfer to the hotel (about 30 seconds’ drive away). You can walk there through a
tunnel, but when there’s a nice man willing to do the work for you? Unlikely.
Departing: In the morning, it takes exactly 25 minutes from shutting the hotel room
door to taking the first sip of Bangkok Airways Lounge coffee (with web check-in and
no checked luggage). In actual time? Six Taylor Swift songs.
30 seconds from here to your
The Novotel can be pricey at busy times of year, but let's all agree there's a point in bed at the Novotel
travel-time when a bed and a shower become priceless and nonnegotiable.

FERRY TO KOH SAMUI
You have three options in ferry companies to Samui: Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran1, Seatran
Ferry 2 and Raja Ferry3. All leave the mainland at Donsak, with piers very close to each other.
Lomprayah and Seatran sail to Nathon and Raja sails to Lipa Noi (map pg. 31). For speed, Lomprayah is
the best choice but it runs fewer sailings and these can be cancelled for rough weather or low ticket sales.
❖ Pink dolphins: As you depart the mainland at Donsak, keep an eye open for pink dolphins in
the bay. We couldn’t believe our luck at seeing one – yes, they’re real!
If that means your choice is between Seatran and Raja, note that Lipa Noi is quite a long drive to, say,
Chaweng (longer still in rush hour). In Nathon, you have better facilities on the pier itself including a
shaded waiting area, food and drink, bathrooms and inside space if it’s raining. The Lipa Noi pier is fairly
rural, though Raja’s ticket prices tend to be lower.
All three ferry companies can arrange hotel transfer on Samui or you can book your pick-up with a service
like NaviGo or Samui Bus (pages 40 and 42.) Car and scooter rentals are available just opposite the pier
in Nathon, as are most amenities you’d need (including hotels, see page 32).
Seatran vs Raja?
Both have the same number of sailings, or near enough. Seatran is the bigger company, with bigger boats
that appear to be in better condition. Safety, to a Western eye, seems more evident on Seatran and life
jackets look more readily available. In bad weather, we’d prefer to be on a Seatran boat than a Raja one.
When would you choose Raja? Raja offers better flexibility if you’re booking in advance. Arrive earlier
than your pre-booked sailing and, space pending, you can switch to the next available ferry. Seatran is
stricter with advance booking.
Driving on to the ferry? On both Seatran and Raja, only the driver drives on. All other passengers go as
foot traffic (though luggage can stay in your car). If you’re travelling by bus, we really recommend bringing
your luggage with you (as annoying as it is to haul it upstairs).
❖ This video explains the ferry: How to get to Koh Samui by ferry (YouTube)
1 Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: http://www.lomprayah.com ‘Our’ pink

2 Seatran Ferry: http://www.seatranferry.com/en/
dolphin at
Donsak and up
3 Raja Ferry: http://www.rajaferryport.com close in a stock
photo, above
left
FLYING BANGKOK AIRWAYS
BKK to USM with Bangkok Airways is short, sweet – it’s a Disneyland ride. With 30 flights per day from
Bangkok to Koh Samui, Bangkok Airways is absolutely the most convenient option (and the experience is
very pleasant, too).
Is Bangkok Airways reputable? And then some. If you’re new to Thailand you might be surprised that
the airline celebrates its 48th anniversary in 2016. What’s more, Bangkok Airways has placed in the top 3
for Best Regional Airline in Asia1 every year since 2004.
Why is it only Bangkok Airways into Koh Samui? It’s not anymore, though that was the case for many
years. When you own the airport, you get to make the rules. Code-share options continue to expand and
Star Alliance passengers might prefer to use Thai Airways.
Will other airlines transfer luggage (and vice versa)? Yes, assuming the flight times are within the
designated timeframe and you have your booking reference to hand.
❖ Print your e-ticket: If your journey includes more than one airline, be sure to print your e-ticket
(including the booking reference). You’ll need it to get your onward boarding passes and your
luggage transferred. We may have tried and tested the ‘paperless’ approach: Explaining to
unimpressed airline staff that it’s “somewhere in your email archives… and there’s no WiFi...
and your laptop’s dead”.
Baggage allowance for checked bags?

As currently stated:
❖ 20 kilos per adult or child, economy (approx. 44 lbs)

❖ 30 kilos, business class (approx. 66 lbs)
❖ 10 kilos per infant, economy or business (approx. 22 lbs)
Determined to bring the kitchen sink? Consider joining Bangkok Airways’
frequent flyer programme, FlyerBonus 2. In anecdotal experience, they seem
to extend preference to “their own” and joining gives you 30 kilos (66 lbs) of
total baggage allowance – so long as it doesn’t include durian. Double-check Prop plane (ATR 72) carry-on
vs Airbus carry-on sizes
this information before departing – things change!
Is Bangkok Airways tough on weight? Yes, they definitely pay attention. It’s not that they’re not nice
people – planes are small and often fully booked. No bag can exceed 32 kg (70.5 lbs), period.
Carry-on baggage allowance? Check your itinerary to see which plane you’ll be flying, as their propeller
planes (ATR 72) have less room and thus a slightly smaller baggage allowance than Airbus planes (though
the weight allowance is 5 kilos / 11 pounds for both).
1 (Bangkok Airways) World Airline Awards: http://www.worldairlineawards.com/Awards/worlds_best_regional_airlines.html
2 (Bangkok Airways) FlyerBonus frequent flyer programme: http://www.flyerbonus.com

ARRIVAL: FLYING TO KOH SAMUI
HOW TO TRANSFER AT BANGKOK SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT (BKK)
There are two ways to transfer from your arriving international flight to a domestic flight at BKK: an easy
way, and a really easy way. Both assume that you’ve checked your luggage all the way through to Samui
and haven’t acquired any duty-free alcohol in between.
❖ Transferring with duty-free alcohol? As with all travellers’ tales, there’s always apocrypha and
anecdote to wade through. Here’s what we know: We have bid tearful goodbyes to many
bottles of alcohol while transferring at BKK, all of which were in sealed, tamper-proof bags
from our origin airport duty-free shop. As such, expect any liquid over 100ml to be confiscated
at security, no matter how ‘by the book’ its packaging. The surest way to arrive with your duty-
free is to check in for your flight to Samui separately in Bangkok, and re-check your bags there.
900 metres to domestic transfer at

BKK, Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport
The easy way to transfer? (6 steps)
1. Arriving at BKK: Very likely, you have a long walk from your international flight’s arrival gate to
domestic departures – perhaps over a kilometre. Simply follow the yellow ‘transfer’ signs through the
airport – they’re everywhere. If you start to doubt the length or your walk or have any questions, there are
English-speaking information booths at regular intervals along the way.
2. Collect your boarding pass: You’ll probably need to visit the transfer desk to get your Samui boarding
pass. Following the yellow signs will lead you straight there. They’ll want 3 things at the transfer desk:
❖ Your printed e-ticket (or equivalent itinerary)
❖ Your passport
❖ The luggage tag given to you at check-in (the bar code sticker probably stuck to the back of a
previous boarding pass)

3. Your arrival/departure card: With your onward boarding pass, you’ll head through immigration to
officially enter Thailand. This is right next to the transfer desk – no more walking! If you haven’t already
filled out the arrival/departure card (probably given to you on your previous flight), stop at the small desk
to do so. It asks for your hotel address in Thailand – no huge degree of specificity is required, ‘Hansar, Koh
Samui’, for example, is plenty. Note that the card has two sides – easy to miss. Before immigration, you’ll
pass through an airline check to ensure you have 3 things ready in your hands:
❖ Your boarding pass
❖ Your completed arrival/departure card
❖ Your passport – save him or her a few seconds by having your passport open to your ID page
4. Immigration: Next up, a friendly smile for the immigration official. Even at peak travel periods, we’ve
never experienced more than a minute’s wait here. After a frenzy of rubber stamping your departure card
will be stapled to your passport – to be removed when you leave Thailand.
5. Security: Round the corner, you’ll go through security. In our experience it’s a quick process – just
laptop and liquids, no shoes or belts to remove. If you’ve chanced it with duty-free bottles, this is where
you’ll bid them farewell.
6. Food (and free WiFi): Emerging from security you’ll face the gates of B concourse. Turn left, towards A
concourse, to find some nice shops and eateries: Crocs and Havaianas shoes (in Thai sizes), Boots and,
around the corner, Camden Food Co with a nice selection of take-away sandwiches. If you’re flying
Bangkok Airways you’ll almost certainly be heading for Concourse A, which is just further on past Camden
Food Co. About halfway down the concourse is the Bangkok Airways Lounge – ideal to pass your wait
with free WiFI and a very welcome cup of coffee.
How long does it take to transfer? Assuming a long but reasonably brisk* walk from your arrival gate,
the process takes about 30 minutes With an easily distracted group, full bladders, lots of luggage or
children to wrangle, assume a bit longer – perhaps 45 minutes to an hour.
❖ The really easy way to transfer? Book an assisted fast-track transfer: VIP Meet and Greet
with Fast-Track Service (you’re met at your gate and escorted through fast-track
immigration, then delivered to your gate or lounge. Rates vary on group size).
*Brisk walk: More accurately – the aggressive fury of Fitbit fanatics

ARRIVING AT KOH SAMUI AIRPORT (USM)
Have your sunglasses and camera ready on landing. You’ll be whisked from plane to baggage claim on
Koh Samui Airport’s colourful trolleys – a perfectly tropical segue from real world to relaxing holiday. Koh
Samui’s airport has undergone some development in recent years and is these days more than the
glorified airstrip of yore. Having said that, it’s still a tidy little place sprinkled with coconut trees and
charm – get ready to fall head-over-heels.
What happens on arrival?
Depending on your travel arrangements, you’ll either arrive at the domestic or international baggage
claim. Either way, it’s a short walk from there to the car hire desk, mobile phone kiosks, and a little further
along a covered walkway to an arrivals area. This is the meeting point if you’ve arranged transfer to your
hotel or villa. (Also find an ATM and cold drinks for sale).
❖ Still need to arrange your airport transfer? Details on page 40
Ticket offices?
While travel agents are scattered around the island, both Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways ticket offices
can be found at USM. These are along the road in the departures area of the airport, slightly before the
check-in area. Both close for an hour at lunch time.

DEPARTURE: FLYING FROM KOH SAMUI
Airport transfer times?
If you’re unsure, ask the concierge at your hotel how long you need – they will have it down to a fine art. If
you’re flying to Europe, your departure from Samui will likely be the 6 am or 7:30-45 flight. Roads at this
time of the day are nearly empty. The following time-frames may be a useful guide for airport transfer
times:
❖ Bang Rak: 5 min ❖ Bophut: 15-20 min ❖ Lipa Noi, Taling Ngam: 45+ min
❖ Choeng Mon, Chaweng: 10 min ❖ Maenam, Lamai: 25-30 min
If your flight is later in the day, consider adding an extra 15-20 minutes for traffic, or 30 minutes if staying
in Lipa Noi or further.
When should you check in?

As a failsafe, give yourself the full time your airline recommends, whether it’s 90 – 120 minutes (depending
whether you’re flying domestic/international). However, in our experience, it’s usually only necessary to
arrive at the airport 45 minutes before your scheduled departure time (heaping dose of caveat emptor!).
This varies depending on the season – extra time is recommended around busy periods like Christmas
and New Year. If your hotel was busy and/or there was little flight availability – arrive with time to spare.
Cannonball tree
If you arrive and things look a little chaotic (a little Thai) – don’t worry! You’ll make your flight. When flight
times get close, staff walk around the queues with signs for the next departing flight. You’ll have to pay
attention, but you will be allowed to jump the queue. Check-in desks at USM close 15 minutes before
departure; just keep smiling. Another trick that never hurts? Dress nicely. If you can’t stand to wait in lines,
an on-the-spot upgrade to domestic business class is often surprisingly affordable.
❖ Flying with children or elderly family members? Bangkok Airways has a courtesy check-in
counter at the far right of its check-in row.
Can you check in online?

Prior web check-in (for Bangkok Airways flights) opens up a separate (and usually empty) queue but is not
recommended if you have an onward flight from Bangkok on a different airline (as you’ll have to re-check
bags, rather than simply transferring).

❖ Leaving Thailand? Consider leaving your spare Thai baht change in a
donation box for Dog and Cat Rescue Samui. Find one at many hotels.
What is there to do at the airport?
After check-in, it’s a 5-minute walk down an open arcade to security, immigration and
Dog and Cat Rescue Samui
the departure gate. Unlike at check-in, security and immigration lines are never long. (details page 60)
A small shuttle bus is available if you prefer not to walk, but it’s a nice stroll full of
unusual tropical plants (try to spot the cannonball trees1).
There are plenty of shops on the way – a tea and coffee shop, an ice cream parlour, clothing, books, etc.,
as well as a full restaurant and Irish bar. Opening times vary from 7 am to 9 am (with similar closing
hours). Once at the departure gate, a limited selection of refreshments await, along with free WiFi,
newspapers and a handful of complimentary computer terminals.
HOW TO TRANSFER AT BKK: DOMESTIC TO INTERNATIONAL
If you’re leaving Samui and flying straight home, you might appreciate knowing how to transfer from
domestic to international at BKK – especially if you have a tight connection time.
1. At Koh Samui Airport: Have your printed ticket/itinerary at check-in and ask that they check your bags
all the way through. Don’t check in for your Samui flight online as it takes you out of the running for this
option. Request a seat near the front of the plane – you’re off first, saving yourself 5 or 10 minutes.
2. CIQ sticker: At check-in, they’ll give you a sticker to wear on your shirt that designates you’re
transferring internationally (‘CIQ’ for ‘Customs, Immigration and Quarantine’). With this sticker, you
absolutely can’t go wrong. Helpful airport staff in both Koh Samui and Bangkok will tell you where to go.
3. Immigration: You’ll go through immigration at Koh Samui Airport, so in Bangkok it’s simply a matter of
connecting. At the international gate there’s a small duty-free shop (with little to tempt alcoholically).
4. Arriving in Bangkok: Follow the very obvious signs for “CIQ” (international transfer passengers). Go
through security and upstairs to the international transfer area.
5. Which transfer desk? Very likely you’ll have to go to the transfer desk to get your onward boarding
pass. This is the only part you can possibly get wrong. There are two transfer desks – East and West – and
they’re miles apart. To make sure, visit the Airport Info desk at the top of the escalator coming upstairs
from security. Ask them which transfer desk you need for your airline and let them tell you exactly where
to go: east or west transfer?
6. (Probably) a long walk: You might now have nearly a kilometre of opportunity to enjoy BKK’s
architecture.
7. Collect your boarding pass: At the transfer desk they’ll want to see your passport, e-ticket or itinerary
and the luggage tag for the bags you checked in Samui. It’s more than likely stuck to the back of your
Samui-Bangkok boarding pass. Get your onward boarding pass and expect a short walk further to your
gate. The higher your gate number, the further it probably is from shops and restrooms near the airport’s
main hubs.
1 Cannonball tree: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Couroupita_guianensis

Left to right: a fresh coconut,
crabs weighed at the market,
mango sticky rice
FOOD AND DRINK || WHERE’S BEST?

You can do many things on Koh Samui but starve isn’t one of them. The choice of restaurants is vast and
options range from the humblest roadside café to the sharpest of the chic. Find the full gamut of global
offerings – in varying degrees of authenticity. Our favourites include:
BOPHUT +
FISHERMAN’S VILLAGE
BANG RAK
Billabong Surf Club Samui French Bakery Ad Hoc Beach Café
Bon Café The Shack Antica Locanda
Coco Tams Starfish and Coffee Bakubung
The Frog & Gecko TwentyOne Ice Cream Le Jaroen Restaurant
MAENAM Karma Sutra Yogi Café Orgasmic
Angela’s Café Krua Bophut Zazen (Le Salon de Ti) ++ Tango Luxe (Plai Laem)
Café Talay
BANG PO
WOOBAR® CHOENG MON
4 Monkeys Aroma Boutique
Had Bang Po ++ Cocktail King
Honey Cottages
Orchid
Po-Lad Beach Bistro
SALA Samui
CHAWENG
Ark Bar The Jungle Club
Bee’s Knees Pub Juice Queen
Bondi Bar Lucky Cow
The Coffee Club Poppies
Fuji Tree Tops
TALING NGAM CRYSTAL BEACH

Air Bar Rock Salt
LAMAI
Banyan Tree Lobby Lounge
Bondi Bar
The Cliff
BANG KAO 9 Seasons Restaurant
Magic Alambic LAEM SET Vikasa Life Café
Sweet Sisters Café Soma Restaurant

BEACH RESTAURANTS
Orgasmic, Bophut / Bang Rak
Eating on the beach will transform any meal and feeling the sand between your toes while tucking into a
barbecued spicy sea bass is the quintessential Samui dining experience. Hundreds of beach restaurants
are dotted all over Samui, and while the selection of staples is consistently offered at each – curries and
pad Thai are favourites everywhere – the distinction is in the details.
SEAFOOD || Had Bang Po || Bang Po

A local hero recently featured on Travel+Leisure’s ‘Best Beach Restaurant in the World’. Fame hasn’t gone
to its head; it remains a roadside gem that belies none of its waiting charm. Food is sensational,
presentation is gorgeous and the ambience? Imagine paradise swallowing you whole. Try anything and
everything seafood. Coming from Nathon towards Maenam, it’s just after descending the big hill (ocean
side, just after Ban Laem Noi). From the opposite direction, it’s a little bit after Panalee Resort.
COFFEE + PIE || 4 Monkeys 1 || Bang Po

If young, cool, small business owners putting their heart into something doesn’t win you over... how
about home-made banoffee pie? Like many of Bang Po’s treasures, you won’t notice 4 Monkeys unless
you’re looking. Find it beach-side (directly opposite 7-Eleven). It offers an impressive range of coffee
options not seen elsewhere on the island. Cool off with a fantastic iced coffee (or iced chocolate), leaving
ample room for said banoffee pie. Excellent.
4 Monkeys, Bang Po
FRENCH/THAI FUSION || Orgasmic2 || Bophut towards Bang Rak

At the eastern end of Bophut Beach, away from the tightly clustered restaurants in Fisherman’s Village.
Come at sunset for a romantic atmosphere and a range of Thai/Euro fusion, emphasising seafood and
top-quality ingredients. (Mango sticky rice and prosecco make a nice afternoon snack, too). A night at
Orgasmic requires a reservation. While you’re at it, ask for a beach-front table.
BEST DINNER || Krua Bophut3 || Bophut

A consistent star in the Fisherman’s Village set. Dishes are outstanding and excellent value considering its
location (particularly compared to some of its neighbours). The ambience is superb both inside and out.
Krua Bophut opens at 1 pm, and may therefore be a better choice for late lunch and dinner. Reservations
recommended for groups.
1 Four Monkeys: https://www.facebook.com/pages/4MonkeysCoffeeBar/272934169443633
2 Orgasmic: http://www.orgasmic-samui.com
3 Krua Bophut: http://www.kruabophut.com

Poppies has a traditionally
Thai ambiance Eggs benny
on the beach
BEST THAI || Poppies1 || Chaweng Noi

A very established restaurant on Samui, Poppies has been consistently delivering a great dining
experience for years. Perhaps not as intimate as the private platforms of Tree Tops (page 82), Poppies is a
good choice for group occasions, and also offers a fantastic Christmas menu. ❖ hotel details page 19
BEST WITH KIDS || Honey Cottages || Choeng Mon

At the southern tip of Choeng Mon’s bay, the beach widens to a big corner. Here you’ll find Honey. It’s
great spot for kids as there’s tons of space and large trees provide needed shade. While a fantastic beach
restaurant for any meal, their espresso is excellent (for the parent on early morning sand-castle duty).
❖ hotel details page 28
BEST BREAKFAST || Rock Salt2 || Crystal Beach

If you can pull yourself from your resort buffet breakfast, make it an exquisitely lazy morning at Rock Salt.
The beach restaurant of ramshackle-rustic Crystal Bay Yacht Club (incidentally not a yacht club) has a
British chef doing magic stuff with both Western and Thai favourites, starting with breakfast daily. Where
possible, everything is organic and sourced locally – making the poached eggs as yummy as the view. If
you’re timid about street food, this is the place to try local breakfast dish ‘jok’ (a savoury rice porridge).
We’re giddy about Rock Salt: don’t miss its great location, fantastic food, do-gooder philosophy, healthy
island attitude, weekly BBQ and live music. ❖ hotel details page 24
Left to right: Honey Cottages, Café Talay, Rock Salt
CASUAL || Café Talay || Maenam

Another beach-front surprise along similar lines to Had Bang Po. Fairly ramshackle and very charming, it’s
in the heart of Maenam’s small village, near the temple (and a spectacular 'fish poison tree 3'!). Choose to
dine on the beach or in the restaurant itself for lunch, dinner or just a lazy snack. A soothing spot that
feels a million miles away from the bustle of the ring road.
1 Poppies: http://www.poppiessamui.com/en/poppies-restaurant-koh-samui.html
2 Rock Salt Restaurant: http://www.rocksaltsamui.com
3 Fish poison tree: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barringtonia_asiatica

5 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT BEACH DINING
Money: Thai-owned or hole-in-the-wall beach restaurants are uniformly cash-only, although on the
bigger beaches you’re rarely far from an ATM.
Service: Remember that life on the beach tends to be slower, so don’t expect lightning-quick service.
Instead, tarry a while and enjoy the view. What better accompaniment to your food?
Furry friends: On the subject of accompaniments, you may find that you make the acquaintance of a
dog or cat or two. Don’t worry though – they’re good-natured animals who will usually ignore you if you
don’t feed them.
Vendors: Across Samui’s popular beaches, vendors often patrol the shore with all sorts of yummy things
– grilled corn on the cob, ice cream, meat sticks and fresh pineapple. Others offer clothes and knick-
knacks for sale. “Mai ao” (“don’t want”) is a firm but polite way of saying that you don’t need anything.
Other options: Each town has small (usually family-owned) restaurants lining its main road, as
well as the beach. Prices tend to be lower off the beach, but the service and food just as
delightful (as at Orchid, page 85). Be sure to try a few!
Typical roadside
THE BEST VIEWS restaurant
Dozens of panoramic and cliffside restaurants are scattered across this hilly island, often attached to a
hotel. Marketing literature tends to wax euphoric, but the best manage to combine great food with the
same low-key, down-to-earth service found on the beach.
HIGH TEA || Le Salon de Ti1 || Bophut

As fancy-pants as you can get next to the beach. Set afternoon tea menus are designed to be shared –
with dessert towers soaring to the ceiling. (We lost count as the macaroons morphed into lemon
meringue pie, mousse and more...). Presentation and quality are excellent, with darling and discreet
service. Choose between two dozen teas and spend hours digesting the view from Zazen across Bophut’s
bay. Expect to waddle away a very happy little camper. ❖ hotel details page 16
Left to right: The Jungle Club, Le Salon de Ti at Zazen

1 High Tea at Zazen: http://www.samuizazen.com/le-salon-de-ti.html

View of Chaweng from The Jungle Club
BEAN BAGS || The Jungle Club1 || Chaweng

This category has dozens of contenders, but we’re giving it to The Jungle Club simply for the experience
of getting there. You know the view will be good when the establishment offers to pick you up in their own
4X4s. This meal is a ‘head to the hills’ experience – and you’ll want to bring both gaping jaw and
panoramic camera. Enjoy your meal in a sala suspended from a rock-face – or perhaps cocktails while
sitting in bean bags – overlooking the length of Chaweng. Cash only! ❖ hotel details page 20
TREEHOUSE || Tree Tops2 || Chaweng

At the Anantara Lawana on the outskirts of Chaweng. The unusual hook of this restaurant is its location –
halfway up a tree! A series of tables shoot off like branches from a main walkway that wends up and
around some thick vegetation (not quite a tree house – take the name with a pinch of salt), providing
private tables in an intimate setting. The menu isn’t as extensive as you’ll find down on the beach, and
largely consists of Western and European fare – but it is fantastic. Book ahead, and ask for a table higher
up the tree for a better view of Chaweng Beach. ❖ hotel details page 19
COFFEE || Banyan Tree Lobby Lounge3 || Lamai

Totally enclosed (windows stay shut) with powerful air-conditioning, this is a great spot with brilliant
views on both wet days or very hot days. Our resident coffee snob declares this “the best coffee on
Samui”, with the beans ground there and then in front of you. Frothed milk is served on the side; nothing
but fresh and thoughtful presentation throughout. An afternoon tea selection offers a good variety of
loose leaf options. ❖ hotel details page 25
Vikasa Life Café (details next page)
1 The Jungle Club: http://www.jungleclubsamui.com/restaurant.html
2 Tree Tops: http://lawana-chaweng.anantara.com/tree-tops
3 Banyan Tree Lobby Lounge: http://bit.ly/1I0f9XG

HEALTHY || Vikasa Life Café1 || Lamai
Open for breakfast at 9am. Menu options include raw, vegan and organic choices and freshly squeezed
juice. Near Lamai, with great views and nice people. ❖ hotel details page 25
TAPAS || The Cliff 2 || Lamai

Celebrates 12 years in 2016 – a testament to the superb experience of their lazy lunches, seafood tapas or
Mediterranean dinners. Though elegant, it’s not stuffy and portions are generous. Organic ingredients
and a long wine list, both uncommon on Samui, are enjoyed on island time. The Cliff’s view should be its
biggest lure but – even better still – is its bruschetta. Reservations are recommended if you want a patio
spot, but inside it’s shaded, cooler and remains open to the view.
HANG-OUT SPOTS AND LAZY DAYS
Whether you’re actually wearing Thai fisherman pants, or want to adopt the do-nothing-all-day lifestyle of
travellers clad in such, the following spots are perfect places to relax. Bring a book and graze for hours.
PEOPLE-WATCHING || Karma Sutra3 || Bophut

Sit in the shade with the wooden shutters rolled back, revealing the most interesting stretch of street in
Fisherman’s Village, and enjoy a cup of coffee and light snack, French or Thai-style. A hippy Himalayan
vibe completes this cool joint, which you can find on both street corners opposite the Bophut pier. Free
WiFi, great bacon baguette.
Left to right: Karma Sutra, Bakubung’s beach and entrance, Aroma Boutique
HAMMOCKS || Café Bakubung || Bophut / Bang Rak

A little tricky to find, in that the entrance is on the bendy main road between Bang Rak and Bophut and
you can’t see it until you’re almost upon it, Bakubung nevertheless makes up for this with excellent
coffee, free WiFi and (by way of compensation to frazzled motorists, we presume) an enormous parking
area. The sea view is peaceful, and chairs, hammocks and tables are nicely spaced for calm and privacy.
Bakubung (which means hippopotamus somewhere) offers a relaxing, morning or afternoon cup of
coffee. Kids will love watching the koi carp.
1 Vikasa Life Café: http://vikasayoga.com/resort-koh-samui/restaurant-koh-samui
2 The Cliff: http://www.thecliffsamui.com
3 Karma Sutra: http://www.karmasutrasamui.com

AIR-CONDITIONING || Aroma Boutique 1 || Choeng Mon
Step off Choeng Mon beach and, on the main road, around the corner from the Boat House, is a sweet
little coffee/sandwich/smoothie shop. Wait in air-conditioned bliss for a fresh panini (eat in or take-away).
Add a fruit shake, smoothie or fresh yoghurt for a quick and healthy lunch. At night it’s a low-key wine bar.
SUPER-FOODS || Soma Restaurant at Kamalaya Spa 2 || Laem Set

Open daily for breakfast. This is serious health and wellness territory. Kamalaya provides a breakfast
vegetable buffet, offering your daily dose of bee pollen, wheatgrass shots and all the seeds and nuts to
stuff a squirrel. Nothing is microwaved, deep-fried, nor is MSG used. In Laem Set, near Na Muang.
HAPPY CHICKENS || 9 Seasons Restaurant3 || Lamai

(At Tamarind Springs spa) Though its main business is a spa and massage training centre, a small
restaurant insists that health and happiness go together. Find a menu to make vegetarians happy, with
plenty as well for anyone avoiding gluten, sugar, MSG or other additives. Seasonal options make the best
of local produce. We love this menu sidebar: “Our chicken meat is exclusively from free-range formerly
happy chickens.” Opens for breakfast at 9:30 am, off the ring road between Lamai and Chaweng.
THAI SWEETS || Sweet Sisters Café 4 || Bang Kao

Get your green smoothies! An incredible array of fresh and organic options – some Western, some Thai.
One of the most endearing cafés on Samui, with an adjacent shop of natural goodies, Simply Samui Co. A
great lunch or snack stop-off when exploring the island, this charming café promises “healthy,
wholesome, delicious” food from ingredients that are free-range when possible, with no MSG, white sugar
and limited dairy. A novel menu includes southern Thai specialties and home-made treats. Corner of
route 4173 / 4170, Baan Bang Kao Road. Closed Wednesdays, otherwise open 11 am - 9 pm.
BEST FOR DINNER

Closed Wednesdays
Sweet Sisters brownie
CASUAL
PIZZA || Antica Locanda5 || Bang Rak

Sometimes you need a taste of home (or elsewhere!) to add some variety, or to give tongues tenderised
by fiery Thai chillies a needed break. Brick pizza ovens are popping up all over the island, but our
favourite pizzas (anywhere) come from Antica Locanda in Bang Rak. A pizza per adult makes a greedy-
sized portion, and great breakfast the next day. For a beach picnic or a night in, take-away pizza is also
available for an extra 15 THB per box. (Kitchen closes at 10:45 pm).
1 Aroma Boutique: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Aroma-Boutique/402013026541046
2 Soma Restaurant: http://www.kamalaya.com/health-organic-detox-cuisine-thailand.htm
3 Nine Seasons Restaurant: http://bit.ly/1FmHjYp
4 Sweet Sisters Café: https://www.facebook.com/sweetsisters.cafe.samui
5 Antica Locanda: http://www.anticasamui.com

STEAK || The Shack 1 || Bophut
Consider The Shack in Fisherman’s Village for a chargrilled steak (or scallops and seafood for daintier
tastes). The meat and management is Aussie, but the vibe is pure Delta, with a blues soundtrack to
accompany your meal. Service can be slow for groups (all the better to build a necessary appetite). Book
in advance, it’s popular.
THAI || Orchid || Choeng Mon

A brilliant example of a roadside restaurant that draws adoring crowds off the beach for cocktails and
dinner, every night. Be sure to try the ‘ho muk talay’ – a seafood curry cooked in a coconut. Their mojitos?
You must. Opposite White House Resort, page 28.
Left to right: The Shack, Orchid and Choeng Mon at sunset, Antica Locanda
SPECIAL OCCASION
The restaurants below are perfect for adding gloss to a special occasion, like a birthday or anniversary.
Reservations are highly recommended, especially over the Christmas/New Year period.
ROMANTIC || Le Jaroen Restaurant2 || Bang Rak

At The Scent Hotel. French food in a small restaurant on a very quiet beach. Brace for 5-star hotel prices
for a romantic meal that might equally include foie gras or seafood, and hopefully a big slice of mille-
feuille. As you’d expect, service is excellent: friendly, attentive yet discreet. Well worth the price but
probably not somewhere to take small children (there isn't space to run around). A superb and very
romantic ambience. ❖ hotel details page 31
BEACH-SIDE || Po-Lad Beach Bistro3 || Choeng Mon

Sits at the bottom of Tongsai Bay’s hilly retreat. Arrive by golf cart and try counting to ten before your
hands hold fresh bread and a cool cocktail. This atmospheric gem boasts top ingredients but we really
love the little things done right. Arrive hungry as the portions are huge. ❖ hotel details page 29
ITALIAN || Ad Hoc Beach Café 4 || Bophut / Bang Rak Mon

On the winding stretch of road between Fisherman’s Village and Bang Rak is Ad Hoc Beach Café, a
refreshingly unpretentious offering amidst the island’s many promises of euphoric Italian dining
experiences. The focus is on high quality ingredients (many being Australian imports), and the personable
staff and management round off the experience. Street parking only.
1 The Shack: http://www.theshackgrillsamui.com
2 Le Jaroen: http://www.thescenthotel.com/restaurant
3 Po-Lad Beach Bistro: http://bit.ly/1m2AOTJ
4 Ad Hoc Beach Café: +66 (0) 77 425 380 and TripAdvisor page http://bit.ly/1TbxOWH

OUR FAVE || SALA Samui1 || Choeng Mon
The restaurant at SALA Samui benefits from keeping you close to the beach, with the sound of rolling
waves adding some depth to the low-lit, warm atmosphere. The menu is a re-imagining of Thai favourites
and, as with Poppies, SALA Samui has been around for a number of years, so it’s well-established and
reliable. Great for romantic dinners and family occasions – and likely more able to accommodate large
groups (if you book ahead). ❖ hotel details page 28
SNACKS, STOP-OFFS AND

FOOD TO GO
BEST MEAL ON WHEELS || Pancake man || Everywhere

Hungry? Find Pancake Man on any busy road and you’ll be
best friends for life. We love banana-nutella ones best. Not
sweet enough? His friend Mango-Sticky-Rice Lady is usually Pancake Man on manoeuvres
nearby. A double-header is a recommended, albeit lofty, in Fisherman’s Village
challenge.
ICE CREAM || TwentyOne Ice Cream2 || Bophut + Lamai

To borrow a Thai colloquialism, ‘OhmyBuddha’ this stuff’s good. Everything is made from scratch on Koh
Samui – including the waffle cones. With a tactically genius location behind the children’s playground at
The Wharf (and a second in Lamai at Hinta Hinyai), you’re sure to pass a shop and you must stop. An
inventive range of flavours include After Eight, mojito sorbet and, for an especially local touch – durian
(which has to be kept in its own fridge).
COFFEE || BonCafé 3 || Bophut

If you’re on Samui for longer or self-catering, BonCafé on the ring road through Bophut offers a wide
variety of organic, Thai-grown, freshly roasted coffee (in bean and ground variety) and tea. While Tesco-
Lotus and other shops do stock BonCafé coffee, experience tells us those bags might be long-term
residents on their shelves. (Closed Sundays).
HEALTHY || Yogi Cafe 4 || Bophut

Yogi Cafe sits between the children’s playground at The Wharf and the ice cream shop – making it just
about possible to fill your family with delicious chia seed pudding rather than rum raisin. Smoothies,
wraps and a great variety of tasty, healthy snacks allow you to power your shopping with super-foods.
Second location in Central Festival.
1 SALA Samui: http://www.salaresorts.com/samui/dining-en.html
2 TwentyOne ice cream: http://www.twentyoneicecream.com
3 BonCafé coffee: http://www.boncafe.co.th/en
4 Yogi Cafe: https://www.facebook.com/yogicafesamui

JUICE || Juice Queen1 || Chaweng + delivery
High-end juicing equipment, friendly staff and a free island delivery service make it easy
to add almond milk, maca powder and ungodly amounts of kale to your time on Samui.
Testing out the
Pick up a cold-pressed juice to go, or arrange to have a supply delivered every morning. Juice Queen rainbow
YOGHURT || Lucky Cow 2 || Chaweng ring road

The best yoghurt you’ll have anywhere is waiting at Lucky Cow, just outside Makro on the ring road to
Chaweng. Amongst a great range of dairy options, you’ll find pro-biotic yoghurt and kefir, plus snacks
including falafel, hummus and healthy bits. While there, pick up some local jam (coconut, mango and
papaya flavours). This stuff is goooooood (Proof? It supplies Four Seasons, Banyan Tree and more).
JAPANESE || Fuji || Chaweng Tesco

Head to Fuji, within the Tesco mall complex, when nothing but noodles will do. A good, quick lunch
option, rather than a dinner experience.
BAKERIES
Bread isn’t a staple of the Thai diet, and the baked goods on offer at Tesco aren’t about to change that.
Luckily, a few enterprising individuals have taken up the challenge.
OUR FAVE || Angela’s Bakery and Café 3 || Maenam

Whatever svelte things you’ve done with your bikini bod, Angela will undo. And yet you’ll still reach for
that second sausage roll. Angela’s has been around for well over a decade, and offers a vast range of
sweet and savoury homemade baked goods, from mammoth-sized sausage rolls to Belgian chocolates
and mince pies at Christmas (page 153). Coffee comes with crema on top – always a reason to celebrate –
and then there’s dessert: pastries galore. A rather portly selection of expat regulars suggests repeat
custom. Prices reflect quality ingredients and portions are extremely generous. On the ring road through
Maenam; look for the big red sign on the south side of the road.
CROISSANTS || Samui French Bakery || Bophut

A small hole-in-the-wall bakery between the entrance to Fisherman’s Village and the traffic lights on the
ring road. Freshly baked bread, quiches and tarts are on offer with good coffee and people-watching.
Closed Sundays.
World’s best sausage roll

at Angela’s Bakery & Café
1 Juice Queen: http://www.juice-queen.com
2 Lucky Cow: https://www.facebook.com/laurent.chaouat
3 Angela’s: https://www.facebook.com/AngelasBakeryCafe

FOOD AND DRINK FAQS
How to find ‘the best’ Thai food?
We suggest trying your luck wherever you are. Take a gamble on a beach (or roadside) hole-in-the-wall
and it might become a mainstay for every meal of your trip. We ‘discovered’ all of the above by being
hungry in the right place at the right time.
❖ Fork and spoon? Swap your cutlery

around to eat Thai food: eat with your
spoon, using the fork to push food on to it.
Is there good street food on Samui?

Street food is easy to find – beach vendors might bring options directly to you as well. 'Jok' is a local food
(similar to congee as a savoury breakfast porridge), as well as franchised noodle carts with local
ingredients. Your best bet for 'authentic' will be away from tourist centres. Nathon (page 140) in particular
has the most local feeling. Back in the centre of 'tourist land', find all sorts both inside fruit and fish
markets, and at vendor carts outside (try busy Plai Laem market page 108). Also, visit walking streets
around the island (page 103) – these have an abundance of food carts including barbeque meat and fish,
fruits, and mango sticky rice galore.
❖ If your travels take you elsewhere in Thailand, consider a copy of Thailand’s Best Street Food 1
(at Amazon, with our review linked below). An excellent resource for Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
Do you need to wash fruit very carefully?

Much of the fruit you’ll eat will be peeled (or, with coconuts, hollowed): bananas, mangosteens, longans,
rambutans, pomelo, jackfruit, salak fruit, etc (photos page 97). For fruit with skin (custard apples, rose
apples, dragon fruit, sapodilla, etc.), we either peel it or wash it before eating (with bottled water and a
drop of dish soap). That’s not to say our way is best (or even required) – it’s just what we’re used to doing.
1 Thailand’s Best Street Food book review: http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/thailands-best-street-food

Children and picky eaters?
Even small beach restaurants have extensive menus, almost always with Western and children’s options.
Most every Western ‘daily staple’ is available at Tesco and other supermarkets – including fresh bread
and cereals, jam, dairy, sweets and snacks, and plenty of fresh produce.
❖ Where to buy groceries and fruit, page 94
Something to celebrate?
Birthday cake ingredients, candles, balloons, wrapping paper, etc. are all available at Tops and Tesco. If
your accommodation lacks an oven, ask a recommended bakery or your hotel’s kitchen to make a
custom cake. Champagne, however, we really recommend you bring from home.
Thai cultural dinner shows?

If your hotel doesn’t offer a Thai cultural night, many do. The evening is often accompanied by a buffet
along “best of Thailand” lines.
The Imperial Boat House Resort & Spa

MONDAY Choeng Mon 7 pm
‘A Taste of Thai culture’
Zazen Boutique Resort

THURSDAY Bophut 8 pm
‘Thai Dance evenings’
InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam

THURSDAY Taling Ngam 7 pm
‘World of Siam’
Poppies
SATURDAY Chaweng Noi TBC
‘Thai Night’
Zazen Boutique Resort

SUNDAY Bophut 8 pm
‘Thai Dance evenings’
Thai dancer in traditional costume
Healthy options?
Your easiest options are Koh Samui’s two freshest ingredients: fresh coconuts and finger bananas. Both
are very easy to find and were probably grown organically. Thailand has over 100 varieties of bananas (or
maybe it has 20, or 28, or 50 … depending who you ask). Whatever the number, it’s likely you’ve spent
your whole life eating just one – the ubiquitous Cavendish. Thailand’s bananas, straight from the tree, are
set to blow your mind. Buy Thai finger bananas fresh from a roadside stand, you’ll see!

Gluten-free options? Vegetarians?
Easily find fantastic local seafood, rice and rice noodles, coconut dishes and fruit salads galore. At many
restaurants can specify exactly how you’d like your fish cooked, making it easy to avoid soy or oyster
sauce. For drinks, consider Koh Samui rum! For help navigating Thai menus, take a look at the Vegetarian
Thai Food Guide (Kindle book at Amazon.com).
Coffee?
A cup of coffee is easily come by, but a great one is a little harder to find. Unlike Laos and Vietnam, which,
owing to lengthy French influence, have developed their own unique styles of serving coffee, Thailand has
not historically enjoyed this distinction. Cafés do however abound and a greater interest in a real cup of
coffee is developing. Beach restaurants will generally serve you instant coffee or, if you’re lucky, drip filter
coffee of indeterminate age. Large hotels are more clued-up; SALA Samui and Bayan Tree are particular
favourites.
If you’re really desperate, the coffee philistines at Starbucks

in Chaweng and Black Canyon Coffee (the Thai
equivalent) at Tesco-Lotus will be happy to decorate your
java with an assortment of syrups, toppings and other
heresies. Newly arrived on Samui, The Coffee Club has a
nice space in Chaweng’s Central Festival mall with air-
conditioned indoor and outdoor seating options, plus a
Chaweng beach shop. Left: The Coffee Club | Right: Espresso at SALA Samui (page 28)
❖ Love iced coffee? Order an iced coffee on Samui, and it will likely be served with milk (or
condensed milk) – so ask to have it black if that’s the way you like it. The jury’s still out on
whether iced coffee on Samui is served sweetened by default – experiences vary – so, again,
specify if you’d like to keep that within your remit!
LOCAL DISHES TO TRY
While six meals a day would barely get you through the best of a Thai menu, the following is a good start.
There’s enough variety in Thai cooking to keep you coming back for weeks – even longer if you’re not
afraid to push your comfort zone! The fried frog was a little too bony for us, though.
Coconuts: Koh Samui might call to mind beaches and spas – but its coconuts are of particular acclaim.
Behind tourism, coconuts are Samui’s second industry, and local growers will tell you they’re the best in
Thailand. As for fresh coconuts, happily, someone else will wield something machete-esque to cut the
coconut open for you. Drink the juice and then use the provided spoon to scoop out the sides. Ask for one
at any Samui restaurant – they’re the ultimate hangover cure (and a refreshing break from Thai beer).

❖ Coconut 101: While Samui’s coconuts are said to be the best in Thailand, they're more sour in
flavour than those used for fresh drinks. Chances are, the coconuts you'll drink come from
nearby Surat Thani. Instead, Samui coconuts will find their way to your tummy in coconut milk,
cream or curries. (Just one of many things we learned at cooking class – details on page 126).
Seafood: Samui’s fleets of fishing boats aren’t just for show, and seafood really shines all around the
island. At beach restaurants, select your dinner from an iced array of freshly caught fish and choose
exactly how you’d like it cooked. Grilled? Fried? Steamed with tamarind? Red and white snapper are the
most common – large, succulent fish, available steamed, deep fried, barbecued or grilled. Other fish are
available too – butterfish, tuna and barracuda – but tend to be rarer.
Curries are a consistent contender, and a good massaman usually tops our list. This rich curry isn’t overly
spicy, but its peanut and potato broth make for a thick, filling experience. Chicken and beef are common
options, but beef brisket really makes this dish. Some restaurants will only give you a few thin strips, while
the best will fill a bowl with big, juicy chunks. Panang curry is also worth trying – thick, intense and made
with coconut cream. Remember to order a cold beer to wash it down!
No Names: Thais rival Alabamans for love of deep-fried things. A Samui special available
everywhere is a starter called “No Name”. Although interpretation varies, No Names are a ball or
pancake of vegetables – usually cabbage, onion, carrot and bell pepper – dipped in batter and
deep-fried. Not the healthiest way to eat your greens, but they’re fantastic with chili sauce and
No Names
worth sampling again and again.
Things that crunch: Particularly in Northern Thailand, insects are very much on the menu. You’ll find
them for sale at island food markets. Cicadas, crickets, grasshoppers or locusts – take your pick!
Mango with sticky rice (khao niew mamuang) is a food we’d place higher than bacon on the ‘Tastes Like
Heaven’ list. Order it for dessert in a restaurant or grab a serving at a food cart. Also in mango land, try a
mango salad. Much like the very spicy papaya salad – it’s made with green, unripe mangoes and
is extremely, amazingly delicious.
❖ What’s the green thing, and do we eat it? You might see food wrapped in green leaves.
Bangkok Airways often serves such a snack in-flight, creating a lot of confused farang faces.
They’re banana leaves and are just the wrapper, used to hold the contents (often sweet or
savoury sticky rice) while it’s cooked and served. Unwrap it first, and then enjoy.
91
BEER, WINE AND BUYING ALCOHOL
When can you buy alcohol?
A cold beer is a great friend in a hot climate, but there are a few things you should know before you head
out and stock up. Unless you buy 10 litres or more* at once, you can only buy alcohol at supermarkets:
❖ from 11 am to 2 pm
❖ from 5 pm to 11 pm
❖ *How to get around it: If you want to take advantage of the 10-litre exception for
supermarkets, 4 bottles of wine and 12 large bottles of beer will just get you over the line.
This rule applies to all supermarkets: Tops, Tesco-Lotus, Big C and Makro. This is due to Thai
legislation, and nothing to do with the good people at the supermarket, so unfortunately there’s no
wiggle room (no matter how wide your smile nor pouty your frown). Alcohol is also not available for sale
(in supermarkets) on religious days and Thai national holidays.
Minimarts aren’t encumbered by these rules. The Bang Rak Mini-Mart has perhaps the best selection
of liquor and wines on the island and is also a handy little general store. Open 7am to 11pm, opposite
Petcherat Marina.
Beer selection?
The three main Thai beers – Singha, Chang and Leo – are all widely available, in cans and big and small
bottles. Expect a strong lager (all three are 5% ABV); none of them blaze trails for innovation in the
brewing industry, but make soothing companions with spicy food.
❖ Formaldehyde? At some point during your stay in Thailand, you’ll

probably hear an old hand sagely informing you that no one “in-the-
know” drinks Singha because it “contains formaldehyde”. From what
we’ve read, this is almost certainly just a myth: "There is no
formaldehyde in Singha, and there never has been1". Singha in the sand
San Miguel and Tiger, regional beers from the Philippines and Singapore respectively, are also
commonly found in stores large and small. Another regional favourite – Beerlao, from neighbouring Laos
– is hard to come by and most frequently found at independent minimarts, and well worth trying if you
see it. As for darker and/or stronger beers, other than Beerlao Dark (even harder to find than its light
counterpart), you’ll be relying on imported European beer. W Retreat (page 22) has thirty craft beers to
try – worth a research visit at sunset, perhaps. Home-brewing is illegal in Thailand so, with one exception
(below), don’t expect to find anything small batch.
1 Formaldehyde in Singha: “Or, Hogwash Disproved” http://www.lewbryson.com/formaldehyde.htm

Tops Supermarket (Central Festival, lower level) has the widest beer selection on Samui: German,
Belgian, British, Japanese, American and also some cider – something for everyone.
MICRO-BREWERY || Bee’s Knees Brew Pub 1 || Chaweng

The only micro-brewery on the island offers four different, fresh beers from Aussie hops and UK-
and Australian-influenced recipes. While there’s nothing tremendously hoppy on offer, the beers
are lovingly made and carefully served. Current selection includes a German wheat beer, pilsner
and British bitter. Find it a 5-minute drive from Chaweng, or a minute beyond Central Festival:
we recommend a taxi or a songthaew as it’s a busy road to walk and street parking is limited. Jim , Bee’s Knees
owner and brewmaster
Wine selection?
A large selection of wine is available at Tesco-Lotus, although if you’re after quality, you may be
disappointed. Those opting for the quantity end of the spectrum will be delighted with the eminently
practical, stackable 5-litre boxed wine. Wine is also available in minimarts, Arnon’s Mini-mart in
Fisherman’s Village having a surprisingly good selection (next to The Shack). The selection at Wine
Connection on Central Festival’s ground floor is unrivalled, but prices are higher than average.
Wine and champagne: Due to heavy taxation, both wine and champagne come at steep prices in
Thailand. At over US$125 for a 75cl bottle of champagne, we recommend bringing your own from outside
Thailand (packed into your checked luggage).
Liquor selection?
Harder stuff is available at Top and Tesco-Lotus, which probably offer the best selection over and above
minimarts (except Bang Rak Mini-Mart, mentioned previously). Gin, rum, vodka, whiskey and whisky are
available in varying levels of quality, but expect to pay a premium for an aged single malt or superior gin.
LOCAL RUM || Magic Alambic Rum Distillery || Na Muang (Bang Kao)

If you’ve rented wheels and are up for an outing, add a trip down to Thailand’s only rum distillery: Magic
Alambic. They produce approximately 8,000 bottles a year in 4 flavours. We can’t imagine a Samui sunset
without some (mixed with tonic and their house syrup – a concoction we call ‘Samui Smoosh-Smoosh’).
❖ How to visit Magic Alambic Rum Distillery, page 117
Typical drink prices?

As for drink prices across the island, expect to pay more at hotels, less at independent beach restaurants
and less still at roadside restaurants. Hotels notwithstanding, you’re likelier as well to pay more at the
more developed beaches (Bophut, Chaweng, Choeng Mon, etc) than out in the sticks (Lipa Noi, Taling
Ngam, etc). Happy hours are common practice, but check the terms with your server in advance as
limitations can apply. As a very rough idea of island drinks prices:
Beer and cocktails: There’s huge price variation for drinks as you can really (or really, really) pay for your
surroundings. At a casual beach restaurant, expect a price range of between 120-230 THB per cocktail
(approximately US$3-$7 or ≥ £2-£5). Domestic beer comes cheaply, imported stuff not so much.
1 Bee’s Knees Brew Pub: http://www.samuibrew.pub

DRINK THB USD GBP
Beer Singha (small bottle) 34 1 0.7
Beer Corona 132 4 3
Champagne Mumm (75 cl) 4390 127 88
Gin Bombay Sapphire 1100 32 22
Rum Bacardi 729 21 15
Vodka Absolut 999 29 20
Whiskey JW black label 885 26 18
Wine (red) Jacobs Creek shiraz 675 20 14
Wine (rosé) (cheapest bottle) 599 17 12
Happy Hour on Choeng Mon Beach Wine (white) Wolf Blass chardonnay 899 26 18
Prices at Tops, Wine Connection in Central Festival, and Tesco

Current as of March, 2016
DRINK THB USD GBP
Diet coke (2 litres at Tops) 38 1.1 0.8
Espresso (Fisherman’s Village café) 80 2.3 1.6
Juice (fresh, Choeng Mon café) 120 3.5 2.4
Long island iced tea (standard cocktail, Chaweng beach) 195 5.7 3.9
Water (bottled) (1 litre at Tops) 13 0.4 0.3

Not cheaper than water,
Watermelon shake (Chaweng beach restaurant) 110 3.2 2.2 but close enough
WHERE TO BUY GROCERIES?
Depending on your accommodation arrangements and the duration of your stay, cooking for yourself
may be a viable (and enjoyable) option. Even if you’re staying at a hotel with a fully stocked minibar, it
can be convenient just to fill the fridge with some fresh fruit or other snacks.
BIGGEST || Tesco-Lotus Chaweng

The Tesco-Lotus supermarket on the Chaweng ring road is by far the largest, most comprehensive
grocery store on Koh Samui (it’s widely used as a navigational landmark). Its selection of fruit is – as you
might expect in a country with such bounty – consistently excellent. Fruits that are more difficult to slice
and carve, such as jackfruit and pomelo, are expertly dissected in front of you and packaged while you
wait. Apples and pears are widely available, and the selection of vegetables is also extensive (although
the availability of those grown in more temperate climes – i.e. broccoli – tends to be less reliable).

Dairy, meat and cereal selections aren’t exhaustive, but staples are usually available and of good quality.
Tesco also has a bakery on the premises, but other than the croissants, you may want to get your bread
products elsewhere. Chocolate, biscuits and other snacks are available but the range tends to be limited.
Prices are reasonable, particularly for fresh produce, and foreign credit cards are accepted – but cash
usually guarantees a quicker transaction.
The complex has a large car park and a number of convenient surrounding stores, including a bookstore
(Bookazine, in the parking area), mobile phone shops, coffee shops, pharmacies and even a cinema.
Tesco locations
❖ Main Tesco, between Chaweng and Bophut 8:00–23:00
❖ Lamai on ring road (opposite Wat Lamai) 8:00–23:00
❖ Bang Rak (opposite pier) – Tesco Express (24 hours)
Left: Tesco | Centre and right: Tops
BEST || Tops Market, Central Festival

‘Best’ is an assertion made with a grain of (pink Himalayan) salt, but Tops has the highest-end range of
goods, widest variety of imports (including Waitrose, Duchy, etc.) and the nicest shopping environment of
any Samui grocery. Its ‘VIP croissants’ are outstanding, though the bakery section is cash-only.
BULK || Big C and Makro

Large supermarkets are mostly concentrated on the same road – Big C and Makro can be found in that
order after the traffic lights on the road from Bophut to Chaweng, before you get to Tesco-Lotus. Makro is
strictly speaking a “cash and carry”, and offers produce in bulk (good if you’re cooking for a big group, or
staying awhile). It stands out for its good cheese selection. Prices at both are comparable to Tesco-Lotus,
and their proximity makes the choice all yours.
BITS || 7-Eleven, Family Mart and mini-marts

For your smaller, more immediate comestible needs, you’ll stumble upon 7-Eleven and Family Mart at
nearly every corner. 7-Eleven isn’t the same animal you’ll find in the U.S. – no slushies here – but water,
beer, soft drinks, energy drinks, snacks and a limited range of liquor are all available. Independent
minimarts are also sprinkled around the island, such as Samui Liquor Mart in Nathon (on the main
road through the town). These tend to offer a broader range of food and drink supplies, and are a good
place to stock up on beer and wine if you’re shopping at Tesco out of liquor hours (see page 92).

WHERE TO BUY FRUIT?
For convenience, Tesco and Tops Market have great variety, including various types of mangoes. Bag
up what you like, get it weighed by the friendly people at the weigh-station and pay at the check-out. Try
to buy one of everything that’s unfamiliar – you’ll probably find a new favourite fruit.
Fruit and produce markets: Wherever you’re staying on the island, there’ll be a market local to you
(ones of notable size are outside Big Buddha and on Nathon’s main road, with another in Chaweng).
These are popular on the point-and-stare tour bus circuit so if you’re a genuine customer in search of
tasty vitamins, go early in the morning. If you dare to buy durian, plan to eat it out in the real world as it’s
banned from most hotels and resorts (and Bangkok Airways luggage).
Wherever you see fruit sold: We’re not being facetious – you’ll see fruit (bananas especially) for sale in
some random places (furniture shops, mechanics...). Roadside dust and scooter fumes aside, you can
expect home-grown stuff to be organic (likely not the case at Tesco).
The best / most unusual Thai fruits to try?
❖ Mangosteen – Mangosteen fruits resemble a little present. Cut through the thick red skin to find a
bite-sized treat waiting within.
❖ Salak fruit – The neat white cloves of this fruit are a brand new experience. Weirdly tangy in a way
that surprises when you reach for another. Off-puttingly, also called snake fruit (because of the scaly
skin).
❖ Durian – Expensive, malodorous and possibly a weapon – the durian has seemingly little to
recommend it. Be brave – the king of fruits has loyal followers for a reason (just don’t try carrying it
home in a taxi). Dare to try it? If you’re a wimp, durian candy is a good place to start.
❖ Rambutan – Dig in! Rambutan is cheap and abundant when in season and makes an ideal breakfast.
❖ Custard apple – Rip custard apples in two with your hands and eat the insides with a spoon.
❖ Dragon fruit – The gorgeous product of the ugliest plant you’ve ever seen. Think of Medusa as a
cactus and you’re on the right track.
❖ Rose apple – A crunchy, bitter fruit with a texture like a very moist apple. Thais top with spiced sugar.
❖ Pomelo – The biggest citrus. For convenience, buy one that’s already been cut up (stand back and
watch Thai supermarket employees wield immense cleavers).
❖ Sapodilla – Tastes like Nigella Lawson roasted you a pear. So, remove the peel and eat as you would
a pear.
❖ Jackfruit – A fruit that weighs as much as a german shepherd. Only in the tropics! Jackfruit can grow
up to three feet long and might weigh up to 80 pounds. Like durian, it’s banned as Bangkok Airways
carry-on.
❖ Tamarind – Tart and tangy when fresh, cloyingly sweet when dried. Bash the shell into pieces and
chew pieces of the fruit. Beware of hard seeds hidden within.

❖
SPRING
MANGOSTEEN SALAK FRUIT (AKA SNAKE FRUIT)

SUMMER
DURIAN RAMBUTAN CUSTARD APPLE

AUTUMN
DRAGON FRUIT ROSE APPLE POMELO

WINTER
SAPODILLA JACKFRUIT TAMARIND
❖ When ripe, jackfruits can weigh up to 80 lbs and grow

to three feet long!

NIGHTLIFE || FROM SUNSET
TO STARRY NIGHTS
KOH SAMUI SUNSETS
Let’s start at sunset. The sun sets quickly this far south, and it’s spectacular. Yet the magic minutes are
between sunset and dusk; that’s when the show gets really good.
The best places for sunset?
Common sense will tell you to head west for the best sunset views, but Koh Samui’s curves offer beautiful
sunsets in many parts of the island. To admire some pinks and purples while drinking something equally
vivid – very likely – you can wander along your closest beach, find a bean bag and enjoy something
spectacular. Choeng Mon, Chaweng and Lamai beaches, on Koh Samui’s eastern half, and north-facing
Bophut and Maenam all offer gorgeous sunset light (if not the sinking sun itself).
ROMANTIC || Zazen Boutique Resort 1 || Bophut

At a micro and macro level, Zazen specifically and Bophut Beach generally are very romantic, especially
at sunset. While Zazen doesn’t offer the high-up views of the former options, it does feature little nooks
for beachside privacy (and has a huge wine selection). ❖ hotel details page 16
CHILL-OUT || WOOBAR®2 || Bophut–Maenam

(At W Retreat) High up on the peninsula between Bophut and Maenam and, as such, has a miles-wide
view (with free-flow mojitos every Thursday!). There’s likely to be a DJ somewhere in the background –
are you trendy enough? A no-smoking venue with a ‘chic-ish casual’ dress code ❖ hotel details page 22
HAMMOCKS || Tango Luxe 3 || Plai Laem

Need a sunset with a little more? Sit at the bar, in a cushioned pod or in a hammock and watch planes
land over Big Buddha. Meanwhile, tuck in to mango rolls with crab meat, blue cheese and bacon. Throw
in some mango daiquiris, an insane sunset and the comedy of Koreans with selfie sticks; this is happy
hour redefined. Sunday beach BBQs, too. Due to neighbouring construction, Tango Luxe looks
unpromising from the road. Trust us. ❖ hotel details page 31
1 Zazen Boutique Resort beach dinner: http://www.samuizazen.com/beach-sala-romantic-dinner.html
2 WOOBAR: http://www.wretreatkohsamui.com/woobar
3 Tango Luxe: http://www.tangoluxe.com/dining.html

PANORAMIC || Air Bar1 || Taling Ngam
(At InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort) Why not add 270 degrees of ocean panorama to
your sunset drinks? Air Bar faces due west and ticks every five-star box a sunset experience might require.
Accompany your mixologist-ed drinks with sushi or cheesecake, while a DJ adds a sunset soundtrack. Bar
seating is available if you like to watch cocktail magic or make new friends. Otherwise, lounge on daybeds
(dusk-beds?) and comfy outdoor sofas. Note a slightly smarter dress code and book in advance for
sunset. ❖ hotel details page 35
Left and right: Tango Luxe | Centre: Air Bar
Tiki torches and tropical atmosphere?
Most beach restaurants set up beautiful and romantic seating each evening, whether you want to lounge
around for happy hour cocktails or sit at a table in the sand. You really can’t go wrong – this is Koh Samui
at its best – but if you happen to be in the area, three of our favourite spots include:
❖ Hansar2 || Bophut
Must put actual magic in their air (or fill their beach bean
bags with it). ❖ hotel details page 16
❖ Coco Tam’s 3|| Bophut

Extremely popular with young couples and groups of friends,
Coco’s busy bar distributes non-stop coconut creations to
lucky patrons on yet more bean bags and – better still – bar
swings and trampolines built into seating decks.
❖ Honey Cottages 4|| Choeng Mon Trampoline seats at Coco Tams

Just as beautiful for sunset cocktails as it is for 8:00 am
espresso. ❖ hotel details page 28
A DIY approach?
Depending where you come from, you may be delighted to discover that you’re allowed to grab a bottle
of wine and walk along your nearest beach to enjoy a sunset beach picnic (grab a take-out pizza from
Antica Locanda in Bang Rak, page 84, and you’ve nailed it).
1 Air Bar: http://www.samui.intercontinental.com/air-bar
2 Hansar Samui: http://www.hansarsamui.com/Taste
3 Coco Tam’s: https://www.facebook.com/pages/CoCo-Tams/139964749351155
4 Honey Cottages: http://www.samuihoney.com/facilities.html

❖ Wherever you head at sunset, make sure it’s the right kind of memorable
– don’t forget your mosquito repellent! (Mosquito warfare tips, page 50)
Sunset in the capable hands of Hansar Samui, page 16
Lanterns (khom lhoy)?

Later on, light a large, paper lantern on the beach and watch it soar into space. They’re quite a sight when
launched en masse. Find a lantern vendor on any beach as soon as it’s dark. (A note of caution on windy
days – nearby buildings and palm trees can get in the way of best intentions).
Above: Honey Cottages, page 28
DAWN SUNRISE SUNSET DUSK

What time is sunset?
JANUARY 1 6:14 am 6:36 am 6:11 pm 6:34 pm
Find out when to make drinks or
dinner reservations, any day of the FEBRUARY 1 6:20 am 6:42 am 6:26 am 6:47 pm
year (give or take a minute or two
MARCH 1 6:13 am 6:34 am 6:31 pm 6:52 pm
as the earth tilts and wobbles).
APRIL 1 5:57 am 6:18 am 6:31 pm 6:52 pm
Data via timeanddate.com
MAY 1 5:42 am 6:04 am 6:31 pm 6:53 am
JUNE 1 5:36 am 5:59 am 6:37 pm 7:00 pm
JULY 1 5:41 am 6:04 am 6:44 pm 7:07 pm
AUGUST 1 5:48 am 6:11 am 6:43 pm 7:05 pm
SEPTEMBER 1 5:50 am 6:11 am 6:29 pm 6:50 pm
OCTOBER 1 5:48 am 6:09 am 6:11 pm 6:32 pm
NOVEMBER 1 5:49 am 6:10 am 5:57 pm 6:19 pm
DECEMBER 1 5:58 am 6:21 am 5:57 pm 6:20 pm

BEACH-BY-BEACH NIGHTLIFE
Are you 19 or 79? Rest assured, Samui’s nightlife can meet all needs – whether Thai flag lit up at night
you’re looking for a starlit glass of wine, or something that involves glow sticks.
Most beaches offer some nightlife, however on quieter ones it usually consists of
beach restaurants playing some music and serving stiff cocktails. On a nice
evening, it’s certainly atmospheric and we’ve enjoyed countless nights under the
stars this way.
If you’re aiming for something less soporific, you may want to make your nocturnal
outings a bit more targeted. To generally augment your night on a beach-by-beach
basis...
Typical west coast nightlife
BOPHUT: FISHERMAN’S VILLAGE + THE WHARF
Any night of the week, no matter where you’re staying, Fisherman’s Village in Bophut is an excellent
choice for a few post-dinner drinks, a night cap or even a full night of it. Find romantic dinners or ideal
spots for families. The density of bars and restaurants in charming surroundings is never tacky, and easily
mixes at-ease pedestrian bustle with the many deeply-rooted, relaxed watering holes along the
beachfront. Highlights include:
AUSSIE BAR || Billabong Surf Club1

We’re led to believe that Australians are rather proud of their man Ian Thorpe. On display inside Billabong
are things he touched and signed with a pen. Sorry, a texta. Billabong has a lot to offer a thirsty person:
friendly staff, cold beer and bar seating directly above Bophut Beach. Live music Tuesday through
Sunday; an affable cover musician is very happy to take requests. 1 pm - 1 am. Closed Monday.
SPORTS BAR || The Frog & Gecko2

An institution for island expats, the F&G just celebrated 18 years on Samui. With American/British
management, staff are only too eager to learn your favourite drink. Stop by for live sports (football, rugby,
cricket, etc) on big screens or the Wednesday pub quiz (8pm); an enjoyable event for expats and tourists
alike. Questions are usually Anglocentric, so adopt some Brits and make sure to book a table in advance.
CHAWENG AND LAMAI
The centre of Chaweng is synonymous with nightlife, and it does a breed of it particularly well. To dance
your heart out to celebrity DJs try Ark Bar3 (beach parties, buckets and fire shows) or Green Mango4
(Full Moon Party meets a multi-storey nightclub), kids. Not your scene? If you’re staying on Chaweng’s
outskirts you can easily keep your drawbridge pulled shut. Or, for a romantic, low-key night of beach-
cocktails-in-jars-on-bean-bags, befriend Nek and the boys at Mini Bar5 (in front of O.P. Resort).
1 Billabong Surf Club: http://bit.ly/20rBnIR
2 Frog & Gecko pub quiz: +66 98 023 8310 to book a table, or https://www.facebook.com/froggeckopub
3 Ark Bar: http://www.ark-bar.com
4 Green Mango: http://www.thegreenmangoclub.com/green-mango-club-samui.html
5 Mini Bar: https://www.instagram.com/minibarsamui and https://www.facebook.com/minibarsamui

Left: Fire shows take place most nights on Chaweng,
especially at Ark Bar | Right: Chaweng sunset
Ladyboy shows: Various Chaweng clubs, including Starz Cabaret1 offer nightly cabarets featuring leggy
khatoeys (lady boys). It’s surprisingly lighthearted and not at all oppressive. You’ve never seen Madonna
like this. Be ready to make a quick exit if you’re not keen on audience participation.
Muay Thai kickboxing match: Grin and bear it – it’s a bit brutal. Fights are held once a week and the
main event starts about 10:30 pm. Need more details? The advertisements will come to you – on a truck
that drives the ring road with a loudspeaker. Chaweng Stadium2, near the lake.
AUSSIE SPORTS BAR || Bondi Bar3

Looking for a piece of home while you travel, or are you an
Aussiephile in search of VB? With great beaches and nice
people in common, Koh Samui has its share of Australian
influence. In Chaweng and Lamai you’ll find variations on a
flag-draped G’Day theme: tempting happy hour specials,
barbie-heavy menus with western and Thai options, and
ample opportunities to make new friends. Bondi Bar
(locations in Chaweng and Lamai) is perhaps the best
established; certainly the most visible with large ads on many
island billboards. Live sports are taken seriously: cricket, F1,
AFL, rugby, etc, with live music on alternating nights.
Bondi in Chaweng or Lamai
for all your sports-on-TV needs
❖ Pub-crawl by paddleboard? Page 122
BANG RAK
Like Chaweng, Bang Rak is similarly equipped with bars, although less densely, and tends to attract more
expats than Chaweng. Both are wink-and-nod destinations for notorious nocturnal company, which may
put some visitors to Samui off. If you do go out in Bang Rak, be careful on the ring road, as it’s still a major
thoroughfare at night.
1 Starz Cabaret on TripAdvisor: http://bit.ly/1AqsH9Q
2 Chaweng Stadium on TripAdvisor: http://bit.ly/1Ue4mlq
3 Bondi Bar: http://www.bondisamui.com

CHOENG MON
Choeng Mon is one of Samui’s sleepier beaches at night, but it’s surprising what a few rounds of pink
drinks and Sweet Caroline can do...
VERY HAPPY HOUR || Cocktail King 1
Offers rather what you’d expect (and the dancing that inevitably follows). In the middle of the Choeng
Mon road between The White House and The Imperial Boat House. For a late night, this is probably your
best bet in Choeng Mon. (As for tomorrow morning, fresh coconuts are good for hangovers).
BOTTLE OF WINE || Aroma Boutique2

Will stay open as late as you like for a quiet bottle of wine. With the Boat House on your left, turn around
the corner out of Choeng Mon and it’s on your right.
MAENAM
Something of a backwater, Maenam’s nightlife

options are friendly but unimpressive bars – with
some live music. There’s nothing noisy into the
wee hours, after sunset it’s more or less a cold
beer and your own good company (which sounds
pretty good to us).
Sunset on Maenam Beach (left) and in Taling Ngam (right)
WALKING STREETS
What’s a walking street?
A delightful Thai combo; part street party, part farmer’s market, suitable for grown-ups, backpackers and
children all at once. Various stalls sell portable food, drinks and a surprising variety of goods.
When and where?
The biggest is on Friday at Fisherman’s Village (from approximately 5 to 11 pm). If coming by car, ideally
arrive early – parking can be tough. Otherwise, come by taxi or songthaew – no problem.
❖ Wednesday – Choeng Mon
❖ Thursday – Maenam
❖ Friday – Fisherman’s Village
❖ Saturday – Nathon
❖ Sunday – Lamai
❖ Chaweng has a long stretch of market stalls along its main road and offshoots open daily.
1 Cocktail King: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bar-Cocktail-KING/268636096556302
2 Aroma Boutique: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Aroma-Boutique/402013026541046

Friday in Fisherman’s Village is our favourite night out because you don’t need to make any plans – the
evening just unfolds. If crowds mean atmosphere (rather than inconvenience), you’ll enjoy it too. It does
get busy so you’ll like the experience best if you’re not in a hurry. Otherwise, perhaps visit a smaller one
(like Maenam) or one that’s slightly more spread out as a market square (like Choeng Mon). Nathon
walking street is perhaps the least touristy version as it’s a port town to the mainland, and depends less
on enticing the farang.
What to expect?
The Fisherman’s Village walking street formula is largely applicable the island over:
Extended happy hour: Any of the many bars and restaurants in Fisherman’s Village make a great
drinking spot and tables fill up quickly. If you’re hoping to combine walking street with dinner (e.g. Krua
Bophut or The Shack, pages 79 and 85) – book in advance! Otherwise, walk and graze.
Food and dessert stalls: Thai street food, BBQ ribs, cinnamon buns and (amongst the most popular) a
mango sticky rice cart.

Samui souvenirs: Yes, the usual tourist tat is here, but a hand-made, local streak is gaining ground
including greeting cards, painted Samui tote bags and just about anything made from coconuts
(pterodactyl, anyone?).
Local cosmetics: Soaps, toiletries, essential oil diffusers, coconut oil products...
Live music: Depending on the week it might be a crooner with a guitar, or a youth orchestra of traditional
Thai instruments. Grab a table at Karma Sutra (main intersection in the village, page 83) and enjoy.
Boutiques: Small shops continue to open, and make window shopping a continual treat. Find all manner
of home décor bits, bath products, treats and sweets in both Fisherman’s Village and The Wharf, pg. 139.
Pancakes: Once you’ve worked up another appetite, make sure to get a freshly made pancake from the
boys with mobile pudding wagons. Pancakes are cooked in front of you with great aplomb, and come
with a litany of condiment choices. Honey and Nutella is a worthy option.
What to bring? Come hungry, and ready with cash. As with anywhere at night, bring a small torch/
flashlight (or equivalent app on your phone).
One last stop of the night? Mojito Man. He’s there somewhere.
GETTING HOME
Unless you’re staying nearby, you’ll have to confront the issue of getting home once the evening’s
festivities come to a close. Songthaews generally don’t run late, so this typically means a taxi or perhaps a
NaviGo car (details page 42).
❖ If you decide to walk home, be careful on the main road, as pavements and street lamps only
exist near the larger beaches, and road conditions can be unpredictable.

Left to right: Big Buddha, Ang Thong, rainy day, Grandfather Rock
EXPLORING SAMUI || WHAT TO DO?
# 1 attraction Big Buddha page 107
Ang Thong Marine Park page 109

# 1 day trip
(or Koh Tan with small children) Page 113
# 1 weirdest photo op Hin Ta Hin Yai (Grandfather Rock) page 116
spa day page 124

# 1 thing to do on a rainy day
+ 23 more rainy day ideas page 147
# 1 thing to avoid elephant riding (and what to do instead) page 134
adventure tours page 129
boating and sunset cruises page 120
children’s activities page 137

Koh Phangan and Koh Tao page 121
road trip around the island page 114

+ more things to do...
running, golf and working out page 130
shopping page 138
Thai cooking classes page 126

watersports page 121
yoga page 132

BIG BUDDHA & WAT (TEMPLE) PHRA YAI
A must-see! While it’s possible to get a little “templed-out” in Southeast Asia, Big Buddha is a novel spot.
It has overlooked the surrounding temple, Wat Phra Yai, since 1974. In terms of sight-seeing, Big
Buddha is Koh Samui’s star attraction. He’s a 12-metre (40-foot-tall) Buddha statue to be seen up-close.
What (wat): Big Buddha sits within Wat Phra Yai (‘wat’ means temple), which comprises larger grounds
with outbuildings, quiet areas for contemplation and a selection of tourist shops.
Getting there: To visit, you technically leave Samui and travel to the small island of Koh Farn. In fact the
two are permanently joined by a causeway, with just a few minutes’ walk between the two. If coming by
car, drive through the causeway’s entrance arch to find a small parking area within the temple grounds.
What to see and do? Buy an inscribed tile for the temple roof for 50 THB. In addition to the temple area,
there’s a “we’re not trying very hard” tourist village, with great window-shopping (and, happily, nobody at
pains to sell you anything). Find jewelry, food products (including Thai honey and durian paste), rice
baskets, coconut oil, herbs and tea. Selection is varied enough to keep men-folk happy (though it might
stretch a child’s attention span).
How long does a visit take? About half an hour, though you’ll enjoy a slower-paced visit if you’re
introspective, like to window-show or enjoy photography.
When? Arrive by 9 am to avoid both the heat and tour buses. Alternatively, it’s an especially beautiful spot
at sunset. Take care on a rainy day as the tiled stairs are quite slippery.
What to wear / what to bring: Tourists are definitely encouraged to visit Big Buddha, but do remember
that this is first and foremost a religious site. Remember to dress appropriately for visiting temples (page
66). Signs tell you where to take your shoes off, so you can’t get it wrong.

Wat Plai Laem and shrines on the temple grounds
NEARBY BIG BUDDHA
While Big Buddha and the following destinations are only a short distance apart, we don’t recommend
walking between them as it’s a busy, bendy road. If not hiring transport, catch a taxi or a songthaew for
this particular excursion.
❖ Unless otherwise stated on signs, you can generally consider yourself free to photograph a
temple (or wat) and Buddhist monks in their tell-tale saffron robes – although it is of course
considerate to ask permission first. Women should never touch monks (though we can’t think
why you would).
FRESH MARKET || Plai Laem Market

Around the corner from Big Buddha is a busy fish market and series of fruit stalls, with popular noodle
huts and street food vendors. Even if staying in a hotel with no access (or interest) in cooking, the market
is well worth a visit. Though a well-known island tourist stop, it remains first and foremost a local’s
market. Fresh red snapper, when available, is a real treat – especially when someone else guts it for you.
Grab everything else your dish requires: fresh chili, lime or lemongrass? To enjoy a less-touristy
experience (and a cooler temperature), avoid the mid-afternoon tour bus circuit.
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Left to right: Ang Thong Park HQ at Koh Wua Ta Lap, dusky leaf monkeys, incentive to BYO-hammock!
ANG THONG NATIONAL MARINE PARK (DAY TRIP)
(Pronounced ang-tong) Another must! If you do only one thing besides sit on a Samui beach, make the
day trip to Ang Thong. You’ve probably already seen it without realising. When Leonardo DiCaprio wasn’t
splendidly shirtless and fighting crocodiles, his character in The Beach spent time at Ang Thong’s Thale
Nai, or Emerald Lake. A visit could easily be the highlight of your holiday: it’s just that beautiful. ‘Ang
Thong’ means “Golden Bowl”.
❖ Ang Thong National Marine Park is a protected archipelago of 42 islands (all but 1 of which are
uninhabited). Much of it is visible in silhouette from many parts of Samui, especially at sunset.
How big is it? In total, the park is 250 square kilometres, however most visitors will see only a tiny portion
(though it won’t feel as such). Allow a full day for the trip to and through Ang Thong’s many islands.

What is there to do? While itineraries differ depending on the tour company and the weather, a typical
day will include:
❖ A gorgeous boat ride of a few hours (depending on the boat) to / from Samui
❖ A visit to Ang Thong’s main island, Koh Wua Ta Lap (a sort of “Camp HQ”)
❖ Then, spend a day snorkelling, diving or kayaking, relaxing on the beach
❖ A picnic-style lunch and an optional hike up to a hidden lake
❖ Nature enthusiasts: Ang Thong has its own ecosystem and a variety of native
Ang Thong is popular,
wildlife including dusky langurs (precious page), dolphins and 50+ birds. but it’s worth it
Is Ang Thong touristy? Yes. Unlike the movie and the postcards, there will be other people at Ang Thong.
It’s a great spot and, while not over-run, many TripAdvisor comments bemoan: “Lovely spot, shame
about everyone else”. Depart for Ang Thong with realistic expectations. Yes, it’s absolutely paradise, but
it’s not going to be all yours. It’s so beautiful, though, that the “conveyor belt” approach we’d normally
avoid isn’t noticed.
Is it suitable for children or the elderly? For babies or small children, probably not. Perhaps with a
private charter that goes with your schedule. It’s a long day in strong sun (typically a 7:30 am hotel pick-
up / 4:30 pm return). You’ll likely need to hop in and out of a long-tail boat tender to get ashore. The climb
to Emerald Lake’s view-point is quite steep – highly recommended if you’re in decent shape (and are
wearing shoes or sandals up to the job). Small children might struggle. See page 113 for alternatives.
When to go? Above all else – check the weather forecast before you depart for Ang Thong and postpone
if poor weather is predicted. Channelling Leo in The Beach is one thing, Titanic… quite another. The park
is usually closed to visitors from November 1st through December 23rd, when rainy season causes rough
seas. However, if rainy season is light, these dates adjust accordingly. Ask your tour operator for updates.
❖ Emerald Lake (Leo’s Lake): You can’t swim in it or go near it – it’s “look don’t touch”.
What to bring? Ideally, sturdy sandals, Crocs or similar that can handle water and slick surfaces (see
recommendations page 65). A waterproof case for your camera and phone will make snorkelling that
much more enjoyable. Seasickness bands, if you’re so afflicted. Most of all – be smart with the sun. Wear a
reliable, waterproof sunscreen with high SPF, a wide-brimmed sunhat (even better if it won’t fly off a fast
boat), and bring ample cover-up clothing.

How to book?
The trip can be arranged in a variety of ways to suit a span of ages and interests. Get there in a big boat,
little boat, private boat, busy boat, fast boat or by sail boat. Many operators have a range of craft to suit
your budget and size of group. Private charters are available from a number of companies, as are ‘more
the merrier’ mass outings. Group bookings will depart on a set schedule with designated times at each
island stop – e.g. a few hours set aside for snorkelling. If you like groups and get along with strangers,
you’re assured of a great day out. Otherwise, consider a private charter.
What to ask when booking: Check what’s included and what’s not. Life jackets? Bottled water and
snacks, snorkel gear, etc. Also check the availability of shade on your boat.
Should you book in advance? If you have a big group, a tight schedule or specific requirements –
certainly inquire with boat charters in advance, by email. Many have expat involvement so English
language communication isn’t a problem. However, if you’d like to wait and see, it’s easily possible to
book your Ang Thong day-trip with little notice once on Samui.
PRIVATE TOUR || 100 Degrees East1

(For a private, or nearly private, tour) 100 Degrees East offers diving and snorkelling trips (with instruction
if needed) to Ang Thong. They run very small groups with the option of doing a fully private charter, and
stand out for quality equipment, high safety standards and knowledgeable staff. As such, they aren’t the
cheapest option available.
KAYAKING || Blue Stars Kayaking and Snorkelling 2

In addition to Ang Thong trips, experienced guides can suggest other kayak outings of varying duration,
from local Samui trips to further afield. Online booking is available.
For a budget/group tour: Trips are easily arranged in-person. You’ll find booking offices and travel
agents all over Samui, allowing easy window-shopping for any promotions. Otherwise, check with your
hotel and have them do the legwork. It’ll cost more, but laziness and holidays go so well together.
1 100 Degrees East: http://www.100degreeseast.com
2 Blue Stars Kayaking & Snorkelling: http://www.bluestars.info

Koh KOH
Nang
Yuan TAO
KOH
PHANGAN
Had Rin
Emerald
Lake
KOH SOM
ANG THONG
NATIONAL
MARINE PARK
KOH
SAMUI
FIVE
ISLANDS
KOH TAN + KOH MAT SUM
SURAT THANI
❖ An Ang Thong alternative suitable for families with small children or
those short on time. Given these islands’ proximity to Samui it’s a much
shorter outing than to Ang Thong (as little as a few hours or a half day).
KOH TAN, KOH MAT SUM AND FIVE ISLANDS
Koh Tan and the much smaller Koh Mat Sum (also spelled Koh Taen, Koh Mudsum) are undeveloped (and
nominally uninhabited) islands just south of Samui. Koh Tan is reached in 15 minutes by long-tail boat.
Similarly, the “Five Islands” (individually Koh Thalu, Koh Din, Koh Mae Thap, Koh Malaeng Pong and Koh
Cheta Mun) offer a secluded beach and a day of snorkeling from a long-tail boat. It’s as far from Full Moon
Party as you can get – sea gypsies use the area to harvest abalone from birds’ nests.
Various operators offer private tours to these islands, which include snorkelling, undeveloped beaches
and island exploring, with lunch often included.
PRIVATE TOUR || Island Gem Picnic1

To book a private half-day tour, Island Gem Picnic offers a
private Koh Tan and Koh Mat Sum outing timed to resort life
(you leave after breakfast and return for happy hour). Gavin,
the proprietor is a former hotel F&B manager – so the food
is sure to stand out. Eight people per boat maximum. Ideal
for families, groups – even a proposal! Book in advance, it’s
popular.
To make a spontaneous visit: head to the Thong Krut or

Taling Ngam (page 35) areas on the south of Samui where
many beach-front restaurants and businesses advertise
long-tail boat tours and tenders. (Check that life jackets and
bottled water are included). Koh Mat Sum
1 Island Gem Picnic: http://www.islandgempicnic.com

ISLAND ROAD TRIP
Koh Samui caters for quiet and active vacations alike; there’s something for everyone. So where to start?
Highly recommended is a driving or scooting Samui tour of your own invention, making sure to visit other
island beaches both big and small. There’s a great diversity in atmosphere, outlook and even the sand –
you might find a new favourite.
Touring Koh Samui by car can take as little or as much time as you’d like it to. Circle the island’s ring road
(51 km) in about two hours – you’ll see plenty without even stopping. Or, follow the coastline and see
where you end up. Rudimentary attraction maps point you to spots vaguely north, east, south and west,
but this small island takes little navigating to find something great. Undertake a visit to any suggested
attraction with a sense of adventure. Each will take you past another new beach or gorgeous lunch spot.
How to book a driver or an island tour?
Renting a car (page 45) means you can stop wherever fancy dictates but, if you’d rather not drive, you can
hire a private minibus or a taxi for a few hours or a full day. Your hotel will have a recommended tour
operator or a concierge desk of their own. Many offer shuttles to popular spots such as Fisherman’s
Village and Central Festival. Otherwise, head to the closest main road, where booking offices abound.
Such shops can help you to arrange everything from ferries and boat charters, to island tours and treks.
❖ Beware “The Tour”: Good or bad, Koh Samui has tourist traps a-plenty (the worst are on
page 136). Many island tour operators offer package deals to island attractions that animal
lovers will find upsetting. If that’s not your idea of a vacation well-spent, rest assured there's
plenty else to do. If you’d like the ease of a guided tour while exercising greater selectivity,
book a private tour with your own driver. Be specific about your preferences when making
plans with a booking agent; the path of least resistance is a very well-worn tourist route.
Once set for transport, where to begin? Koh Samui’s attractions start on the beaches, and wind into the
jungle hills. You might expect to see Thai temples, and even monkeys – but Samui has more surprises in
store. How far will curiosity take you?
Starting from Chaweng and going clockwise around Samui, our favourite island highlights include:

4169 Big
OAD Buddha
RING R Maenam 4171
51 KM
S
31 MILE Santiburi Samui
Country Club
The Wharf
Petcherat
Marina Airport
Fisherman’s
Village
Central
Festival
Nathon
Khao Pom
highest point 635 m
Magic Garden
Crystal
Beach
Na Muang
I and II
Wat
Khunaram
4170 Grandfather Rock
Wat Sila Ngu
4173 Guan Yu Shrine
Sweet Hua Thanon
Sisters
Magic
Alambic
Ancient
House
CRYSTAL BEACH
(Also called Silver Beach and Thongtakian). If you're

day-tripping and want a beautiful stop-off for
swimming, a nap or a photo shoot – this small,
secluded beach is a popular spot. Beach access is
easiest through one of the small resorts (such as
Thongtakian Resort or Crystal Bay Yacht Club)
so time your visit to have breakfast, lunch or a snack
at Rock Salt (page 80) and you'll find the beach
from there. Lucky you! ❖ hotel details page 24

GRANDMOTHER AND GRANDFATHER ROCK
The shape, the scale, the juxtaposition, the sheer implausibility of these rudely shaped rocks. Giggle like a
teenager at Hin Ta Hin Yai and snag some postcards to give your friends a good chuckle. It’s very
touristy but worth a quick stop if you’ll appreciate the photos. A small market also offers trinkets, snacks
and postcards. Off the ring road, south of Lamai beach, with lots of signs pointing the way.
❖ More temples? As you drive around Samui you’ll spot many more temples – most of them
with an aesthetic all their own. Wat Sila Ngu 1 is a red temple between Lamai and Hua
Thanon. Nearby, the Guan Yu shrine (‘Red-Faced Warrior‘) reminds of Samui’s Chinese
roots2 Additionally, you can visit a mummified monk (yes really) at Wat Khunaram on the
ring road between Hua Thanon and Na Muang. What to wear to visit temples, page 66.
HUA THANON MARKET
Baan Hua Thanon is a little village that defies time and this fishing outpost will interest the armchair
anthropologist or casual photographer. Nearby is Samui’s ‘Ancient House 3’, a 150-year old teak house
constructed without use of nails or adhesive. Near Baan Hua Thanon, on road 4170.
JUNGLE, MOUNTAINS AND WATERFALLS
❖ Koh Samui’s highest point, Khao Pom, is 635 meters tall (2083 feet). That’s just 15% of the
height of Malaysia’s Mount Kinabalu – but still quite a hike. Unless you’re Ranulph Fiennes or
Bear Grylls, maybe skip solo wanderings through this thick, uninhabited jungle (or take a
guided hike or bike tour, page 129). Instead, consider visiting the following....
Na Muang I and II waterfalls4 ... Samui has two large waterfalls, called Na Muang I and II. While the
falls themselves would make a nice stop if left as a natural entity, the area is one of the most sewn-up
tourist attractions on the island (and a chained-up tiger will never get our vote). Though visiting the
waterfalls is technically free, odds are that someone will make money from you somehow. Tour groups
visit daily, so go early if you prefer a quieter experience. Avoid Na Muang when it’s raining as it gets
1 Wat Sila Ngu: Also called Wat Ratchathammaram
2 Samui history: The island first pops up on 17th century Chinese maps. With centuries of trading history, many Thais have ethnic Chinese
roots and, amongst Samui people, these are believed to trace to Hainan (an island off China’s south coast).
3 Ancient House: http://www.kohsamuitourism.org/en/ancient-house
4 Na Muang waterfalls on TripAdvisor: http://bit.ly/1UuJBkO

slippery and note that it might not suit very young or elderly visitors – there are steep steps involved. The
elephant trek or 4X4 "transport to the waterfall" is optional. Despite appearances (perhaps even locals’
insistences), you can drive straight to the main entrance. Bring extra doses of mosquito repellent, a
bathing suit, and slip-proof shoes like trainers/running shoes.
Magic Garden ... (also called Secret Buddha Garden, Ta Nim’s Garden, etc) A garden high in the
jungle hills filled with statues and treasures. A fifth-generation Samui Thai and artist, the late Nim
Thongsuk, carved and installed the garden over thirty years ago, and its charm continues to grow. You’ll
need an intrepid driver to get here on your own – “off road” barely does it justice. A 4X4 Jeep is absolutely
necessary, but we recommend joining a group or hiring a local driver for the purpose, as it’s very easy to
get lost. In the jungle. Which is scary. (Need further warning? Getting lost can mean accidental trespass
into a military zone). Enquire with an island travel agent for transport details.
❖ Butterflies: Samui’s resident butterfly expert, Les Day 1, has personally recorded 321 butterfly
species – an extremely high number for an island of its size. How many will you see?
SOUTH COAST
RUM DISTILLERY || Magic Alambic Rum Distillery 2

Rustic and hard to find, way down on the south coast, but the delicious rum
made to a Martinique recipe makes the trip well worthwhile. It’s Caribbean in
character and made with local ingredients in a number of flavours – we like the
coconut one best, mixed with their secret house syrup. Stop by the open-air bar
and sample the full range, 60 THB per tasting glass. Before you leave, take a
wander around the gardens. In the back, a grove of jackfruit trees shows off an
astonishing bounty. Rum tasting from 9 am to 6 pm. 44/5 Moo 3, Tambon Na
Muang. Call (0) 9181 67416 if you can’t find it. Magic Alambic recently added a
small restaurant with French and Thai food plus snack options (11am - 9pm). Magic Alambic rum
Otherwise, Alambic is just around the corner from Sweet Sisters Café (page 84).
❖ nearby beach and hotel details page 36
NATHON
Nathon, Koh Samui’s capital town, will be your first introduction to the island if you’re coming by ferry
(page 71) – otherwise, if flying in and out, you might never see it at all. Should you visit? Absolutely! Of
anywhere on the island, it’s the most industrial, the most ‘real life’. As such, it might not immediately
catch your eye on a quick drive through. However, it might win you over as you explore on foot. Take your
time to have a proper wander – there’s more to Nathon than a first glance suggests.
1 Samui butterflies: http://www.samuibutterflies.com
2 Magic Alambic Boutique Rum Distillery: https://www.facebook.com/rumdistillery/

Nathon’s main road is just one block over from the sea-front road, with lots of quiet off-shoots for looking
around and taking photos. Though a proper town, you can’t get lost. There’s lots of waterfront eating –
Thai choices, pizza, seafood, etc. Closer to the ferry terminal, you’ve got great coffee options (and
massage rates are half those in Choeng Mon).
❖ No Nathon at noon! Window shop like a pro – out of the noon sun. A much better option is to
come at sunset, as Nathon faces due west and offers great views out to neighbouring Five
Islands. See sunset times, page 100.
If you enjoy absorbing your culture in the midst of things, perhaps on a plastic stool with some noodles
and a Singha – this is a nice spot for an afternoon snack, dinner or dessert and the simple joys of people-
watching. Shop clerks are happy to tell you about their products – Nathon has some great shops not
found elsewhere on Samui. Options are increasingly eco-minded, often at more competitive prices than
in Koh Samui’s main tourist centres. ❖ nearby beach and hotel details, pages 32 and 35
Nathon’s streets, Chinese temple and coastline
Maenam’s streets, its most persuasive banana vendor, Chinese temple and beach bar
MAENAM
A trip to Maenam is a bit like finding a lost world. At Maenam’s traffic lights, turn off the ring road towards
the sea. Head towards a structure that looks like a pier (but isn’t) then, before it, turn right. A whole new
land opens up, leading down to an exuberantly painted Chinese temple and an open square right on the
beach. The area has the feel of Fisherman’s Village ten years ago and is as sleepy as it gets. An ideal place
to bring a book and no other plans (except, perhaps, lunch at Café Talay, page 80). On the ring road, a
few upscale furniture and home interior shops can easily arrange shipment of anything that catches your
eye – from friezes and sculptures to Thai furniture. ❖ nearby beach and hotel details page 21

FISHERMAN’S VILLAGE
If you’re wholly averse to sight-seeing and tourist attractions, Fisherman’s Village and The Wharf
(adjacent) remain in the running. Boys like the bars (page 101), girls like the shops (page 139) and
everyone can agree on a few hours of happy local atmosphere, great choice in food and drink, and
fantastic views. Find a vast, free parking lot at The Wharf, a charming pedestrian mall of boutiques and
cafés between the main resorts of Bophut and Fisherman’s Village. On Friday nights, Fisherman’s Village
hosts a lovely (and lively) walking street (page 103). ❖ nearby beach and hotel details page 15

SUNSET CRUISES, FISHING & BOAT TRIPS
With time, money and inclination you can take to Samui’s seas in just about any vessel, for any type of
excursion. Examples include sunset cruises on a massive junk, cruising the coast in a million-dollar yacht
or enjoying a day’s fishing. The majority of charter companies have offices in Bang Rak, at or near
Petcherat Marina. Most offer a few one-size-fits-all excursions (outlined below) and all are happy to
discuss private charters or custom requirements.
❖ Inquire directly for group tours or charters to Ang Thong, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, plus
fishing or diving trips and sunset cruises.
Boutique Yachting1 Full and half-day charters, island tours and sunset cruises on a Indonesian two-
masted sailing ship or a very comfortable Turkish gulet.
Chantara Junk2 The ultimate pirate ship experience. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday group tours
around Koh Phangan (cleverly timed to return at sunset), with private cruise options. Capacity for 50
guests for day-sailing.
The Red Baron3 Similar offerings to the Chantara, plus a Wednesday and Sunday brunch cruise option,
as well as on-board wedding packages. Capacity for 40 guests for day-sailing.
Oceans Elite 4 Various high-end yachts (up to 97 feet), plus catamaran and sail boats, available for full-
day, sunset, overnight and extended charters.
Samui Boat Charter5 A large fleet including two traditional wooden junks, a catamaran, plus yachts
and high-end speedboats. The broad decks of the junks accommodate 40+ people, and make a
memorable venue for a special occasion.
The Red Baron, as seen from

Starfish and Coffee
1 Boutique Yachting: http://www.boutiqueyachting.com
2 Chantara Junk: http://junk-chantara.com
3 The Red Baron: http://www.redbaron-samui.com
4 Oceans Elite: http://oceanselite.net/yacht-charter/our-fleet
5 Samui Boat Charter: http://www.samuiboatcharter.com

KOH PHANGAN AND KOH TAO
❖ Arrange travel with any boat charter listed previously, Lomprayah or Seatran ferry companies
(page 71) or in-person at any Samui tour operator.
Koh Phangan
Koh Phangan is Koh Samui’s largest island neighbour, and home to the full moon parties you’ve no doubt
heard about. While less developed than Samui, its hotels and services continue to expand 1. It’s a short
journey to Koh Phangan and it’s easily possible to visit for a long lunch and an afternoon. Ferries and
smaller craft run from Bang Rak, or you can charter your own boat. Scheduling your return voyage at
sunset would be a stroke of genius.
Koh Tao
Koh Tao
Further still from Koh Phangan is the tiny dot of Koh Tao. Forty-one miles out, it’s a big draw for dedicated
scuba divers. A much smaller and more remote island than Samui, it indeed has a different ambience (it
was an island prison until 1947). Worth seeing? On a long visit to Thailand, maybe. Unless you plan to add
serious diving to your holiday (page 123), it’s at once too long a journey for just one night but too small an
island to occupy you longer. If keen to see it all, take friends and/or plenty of books.
WATER SPORTS
Samui’s shores are fairly sandy, so its waters don’t offer outstanding snorkelling or diving (though, as
explained previously, it’s easy to find both on day-trips). Instead, look forward to water sports on the
water rather than in it.
Kayaking: Most hotels and even beach restaurants have kayaks available for guest use or very
reasonable hourly hire. All should (and many do) provide life jackets.
1 Koh Samui vs Koh Phangan? http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/koh-samui-vs-koh-phangan

Jet-skis usually arrive by truck on big beaches around 9 am – all the better to make it an early morning
swim. Although measures are being taken to stem the practice, scams involving jet-skis and damage
deposits have long been reported on Chaweng and Lamai.
STAND-UP PADDLING
Great on a calm day, stand-up paddling can be found at large resorts especially. For lessons, board
rentals and guided tours:
❖ iSUP Samui 1 || Choeng Mon

A smug sunrise paddle, or Ang Thong by board? iSUP Samui has a creative range programs
(fitness, time trials and family paddling), plus lessons and board rentals. We tend to believe
trained, Australian surf instructors mean you're in good hands.
❖ Samui Paddle Board 2 || Lamai

SUP yoga and – wait for it – mermaid monofin swims
❖ SUP Nightboard3 || Chaweng

If your ears perk up at the mention of “pub crawl by paddle”, these guys offer LED-lit paddle
boards for night-time tours.
KITEBOARDING / KITESURFING
Kiteboarding Asia 4 || Nathon + Hua Thanon

Take a 1-hour lesson or hang on tightly for a 3-day course, ideal for getting beginners up and going. A
basic level of fitness is recommended, as is confidence in swimming in deep water. From April to October
they’re based in Nathon, and otherwise – when the wind changes with the seasons – in Hua Thanon.
WINDSURFING, WATER SKIING, FISHING
Saard’s Watersport Centre 5 || Bang Rak

Take a 2-day windsurfing course with former Olympic windsurfer, Sa-ard Panyawan. In his own words:
“You couldn’t be in better hands”. If you’re already proficient, windsurf rentals are available (as are water
skis and banana boats). Rather head to sea and return with dinner? Book a full-day fishing tour.
1 iSUP Samui: http://www.isupsamui.com
2 Samui Paddleboard: http://www.samui-paddleboard.com
3 SUP Nightboard http://www.paddleboardsamui.com
4 Kiteboarding Asia: http://www.kitesurfing-samui.com
5 Saard’s Watersport Centre: http://www.saardswatersport.com

Snorkelling and diving on Koh Tao
DIVING
Nearby Koh Tao is the region’s diving mecca, and experienced divers with high expectations should head
there directly. However, beginners will equally prosper in Samui waters or swimming pools. Scuba and
PADI certifications courses are also possible, with programmes to suit any itinerary. Operators are
available throughout the island, with a particular concentration in Bang Rak (near the pier) and in
Fisherman’s Village (Bophut). Many are expat-owned and offer a discount for pre-booking online.
❖ 100 Degrees East 1 || Bang Rak

PADI certification and diving instruction, with various destinations for small groups.
❖ CSI: SAMUI2 || Bophut

Classes have a maximum of 4, with the option of private lessons.
❖ The Dive Academy3 || Bophut

Whether beginners or more experienced, take PADI courses or diving tours with your entire family
– all ages can be catered to in the same class. Otherwise, four people per group maximum.
Instructor training also available. Based at Bandara Resort and Spa on Bophut Beach.
❖ Discovery Dive Centre4 || Chaweng

Safety priorities aside, Discovery’s staff roster features their “canine scuba instructors” (office
dogs Disco and Charlie) – certain evidence of a fun and relaxed learning environment with good
people. Based at Amari Palm Reef Resort on Chaweng Beach.
❖ Are there sharks? It’s all good news – there are no great
white sharks and you’re unlikely to encounter any other
hungry-for-humans varieties. From a diving blog: “Bull
sharks 5 and tiger sharks have been located
occasionally in Thai waters but they are very rarely
encountered by divers as they prefer staying at depth.
There have been no recorded fatal shark attacks in
Thailand on scuba divers or swimmers 6.” You might,
however, be lucky enough to see reef sharks or a whale Whale shark near Koh Tao
shark off Koh Tao. While the latter is absolutely massive
– 47,000 lb / 21.5 metric tons – they’re plankton feeders.
1 100 Degrees East: http://www.100degreeseast.com
2 CSI: Samui: http://www.csisamui.com
3 The Dive Academy: http://www.thediveacademysamui.com
4 Discovery Divers: http://www.discoverydivers.com

SPAS, MASSAGE AND RELAXATION
A Samui spa session makes a gorgeous island experience that much more blissful. Round out your
indulgence with a beach massage or yoga session – a tough itinerary indeed.
THAI BEACH MASSAGE
“Hello, massaaaaaaage”. That’s Koh Samui’s best sales pitch, and it works. Thai beach massage huts are
found all along Samui’s many beaches, (with dozens of resort spas available too) – you’ll need very little
convincing to succumb to an hour a day. Quality varies amongst beach masseuses, but – for sheer
slothfulness – you probably won’t care. Beach massages are tops in our books for the sea breeze alone,
especially when you wake up to a sunset you didn’t see coming. Skirts and revealing undies are not
recommended! Also well worth trying are foot massages and coconut oil massages.
Bendy-stretchy: Thai massages are great for stress-relief and are absolutely ideal after a long flight.
However, they can be more vigorous than other forms – lots of pulling and bending. If something hurts,
say so and mean it. Massage ladies sometimes think limbs want to bend further than is the case. (Or
maybe your hamstrings are due for some Koh Samui yoga? Details page 132).
Foot scrubs: just say no! To be avoided completely is the “foot scrub” option – while it leaves your feet
feeling softer than your hands, you’ll be unable to walk on anything for days (especially sand). Turns out
we need some protective padding after all. No, foot scrubs are an hour’s torture that you have to pay for.
Left to right: beach massage and hut, Cyan Spa, Le Spa Zen
MASSAGE SHOPS AND SPAS
Perfectly filling the gap between beach massage and high-end spa, every town high street has air-
conditioned massage shops. They’re open at night, unlike the beach huts that close at sunset. Prices are
extremely reasonable and booking isn’t necessary. If one place is full they’ll either tell you when to come
back, or you can walk along to the next one.
SPA WITH A VIEW || Cyan Spa1 || Bophut

A particularly special offering, smack in the middle of Fisherman’s Village, Cyan’s floor-to-ceiling windows
look across the ocean towards Koh Phangan – making a foot massage or pedicure all the more enjoyable
(and a great idea at mid-day when you can escape into air-conditioned comfort without missing the
view). A beautiful spot with skilled staff, high standards and natural products (no palm oil or paraffin).
1 Cyan Spa: http://cyanspasamui.com

❖ How to tell between... y’know? Hot pants. Heels. Sassy ladies. You can tell.
Long journey? Jet-lagged? Treat your weary self to a massage just before bed. Brush your teeth
beforehand, so you can waddle home and straight to sleep!
HOTEL OR PRIVATE VILLA MASSAGE
For an even lazier approach, enjoy a Thai massage in your hotel or villa (easily arranged through the
concierge). A tip to make the experience as perfect as the picture: many hotels offer their on-site
massages in beautiful spots like the garden or their sala. If it’s a hot day, you might find there’s no breeze
and you spend an hour cooking to death. Booking earlier in the morning or later in the evening might
bring you closer to the total bliss you’re seeking.
COUPLES’ MASSAGE || Le Spa Zen1 || Bophut

Many resorts offer packages designed for two and life is twice as nice at Le Spa Zen (a popular
honeymoon destination). Failing that, a spontaneous side-by-side beach message is nice, too. Cheeky
massage ladies will insist you hold hands (as they chuckle presumably R-rated things in Thai). ❖ hotel
details page 16
SAMUI SPAS
If we began to list every spa on Samui worth an hour of your time, you’d need a visa run to Burma before
you were half finished. We simplified things considerably by cross-referencing our favourites with recent
winners of luxury hotel spa awards2 and world spa awards3. However, don’t discount a more convenient
option should you find one on your doorstep. This is a very stacked pack and standards are excellent.
Amongst the following, some offer full accommodation with yoga, detox and healthy living retreats.
Others are strictly day spas, often attached to resorts.
Anantara Spa4 || Bophut

6 glass-walled treatment rooms which look out to ponds, water features and pretty gardens. Amongst its
tailored offerings: the Anantara Golfer Massage. ❖ hotel details page 16
1 Le Spa Zen: http://www.samuizazen.com/le-spa-zen.html
2 2015 World Luxury Spa Awards: http://www.luxuryhotelawards.com/winners/2015-spa-awards
3 World Spa & Wellness Awards 2016: http://professionalspawellness.com/site/2016%20Awards%20Finalists
4 Anantara Spa: http://samui.anantara.com/spas.aspx

LUXSA Spa 1 || Bophut
At Hansar Samui offers various treatments from 10 am to 10 pm, with dedicated ‘Spa Suites’ for couples.
Oh, and it won Thailand's Best Luxury Resort Spa (2015). ❖ hotel details page 16
Six Senses Spa2 || Choeng Mon

For a slightly more... holistic approach, Six Senses offers cosmic healing, chakra balancing and yogic
sleep. Less keen on participation? Try a coconut butter body mask or a Thai massage in an ocean-view
sala. ❖ hotel details page 29
Tamarind Springs 3 || Chaweng–Lamai

A main-stay of Samui’s spa offerings and is best known for massages in an unmatchable environment.
The sauna abuts a large rock face and delivers on its namesake springs: treatments include a dip or swim
in the waters.
Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary & Holistic Spa4 || Laem Set–Na Muang

Access to a meditation cave (yes, an actual cave) is included with its visitors’ passes. It offers various
programmes to enhance your sleep, de-stress, detox and more.
Banyan Tree Spa5 || Lamai

Stands out from other options for its hydrotherapy spa, ‘The Rainforest’. What’s hydrotherapy? We don’t
know, but it’s probably nice. ❖ hotel details page 25
Manicures/Pedicures?
Get sparkly fingers and twinkly toes at beach massage huts, high street spa shops, and higher end resort-
style spas. If pedicuring beach-side, you’ll want to ensure your toes are properly dry before walking on
sand. Stuck in a beach massage hut for an hour? Big problem…
THAI COOKING CLASSES
A trip to Samui can be educational, too. If anything particularly catches your eye, consider booking in
advance – it’s probably popular.
Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts (SITCA)6 || Chaweng ... SITCA trains professional chefs and
visitors alike. 3-hour small classes are held twice daily (11 am for lunch or 4 pm for dinner). Invite a friend
to join you for the meal you’ll prepare. Choose your lesson from the calendar online as menus differ daily.
6- and 12-day intensive courses are also available.
1 LUXSA Spa: http://www.hansarsamui.com/luxsa_spa
2 Six Senses Spa: http://www.sixsenses.com/resorts/samui/spa
3 Tamarind Springs: http://www.tamarindsprings.com
4 Kamalaya Spa: http://www.kamalaya.com
5 Banyan Tree Spa: http://www.banyantree.com/en/ap-thailand-koh-samui/banyan-tree-spa/overview
6 Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts: http://sitca.com

SITCA also offers fruit carving lessons with a basic 1-hour course, a 9-hour intensive session and a
comprehensive 3-day course. The latter includes a take-home instructional book, apron and carving
tools. Book well in advance, as this course is wildly popular. Opposite Central Samui Beach Resort.
Left:: Lat with home-grown loofah, Island Organics cooking class
OUR FAVOURITE Island Organics Samui1 || Bophut ... Husband-wife team Cam and Lat offer an
incredible half-day experience, cooking a farm-to-table feast. Tour their fully organic small-scale farm
(including loofah plants, home-grown passionfruit and avocado, a mushroom hut, chickens and tilapia
fish), before enjoying Lat’s 4-course cooking curriculum. Ever made coconut milk from scratch? It’s
fascinating. Lunch follows and you won’t want to leave. Classes are Monday, Wednesday and Friday, or
book a private class on Tuesday or Thursday.
Smiley Cook 2 || Chaweng – Lamai ... Two classes daily (9 am and 4pm), for a maximum of four per
group. You’ll learn 4 dishes and – best of all – unlock the magic of mango sticky rice.
Pai Cookery 3 || Chaweng ... Owner Pai and her namesake operation Pai Cookery really want you to
keep up your 10-a-day spring roll habit when you return home. Learn to make perfect spring rolls (or up
to 4 dishes per lesson) in a small class of 4 people or fewer.
COCKTAIL CLASSES
Hansar Samui4 || Bophut ... Prefer a liquid dinner? Consider a cocktail class at Hansar Samui: 90
minutes of shaking and stirring, every Monday, Friday and Sunday.
HOTEL COOKING CLASSES
Most hotels offer cooking classes too – typically more casual affairs than SITCA. The following hotels
happily welcome non-guests to join their cooking classes. However, some might suspend outside
bookings during peak periods (like Songkran, Christmas and New Years). Always worth asking!
Most invite their students to stop for lunch (ostensibly to eat your homework), though each differs in their
cooking environment, menu options and general ‘curriculum (class length, the inclusion of market or
garden tours, etc).
1 Island Organics Samui: http://islandorganicssamui.com
2 Smiley Cook: http://www.smileycooksamui.com
3 Pai Cookery: http://paicookerysamui.com
4 Cocktail classes at Hansar Samui: http://www.hansarsamui.com/Taste

PRICE /
HOTEL PERSON TIME / PLACE CLASS SIZE KIDS
(THB)
10:30 am daily ≥ 8 people

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort 2,900++ 12+
Amber restaurant or private class
9:30 am market tour

≥ 8 people
Spice Spoons at Anantara Lawana, Chaweng 2,750++ 10:45 am cooking class 5+
or private class
Ocean Kiss restaurant
2:00 pm daily except

≥ 5 people
Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, Bang Po 2,500++ Wednesday + Sunday 12+
or private class
KOH cooking studio
12:30 pm every Tuesday

≥ 6 people
Tongsai Bay, Choeng Mon 2,500++ and Friday 13+
or private class
Chef Chom’s terrace
Daily ≥ 5 people
Banyan Tree Samui, Lamai 2,500++ 5+
The Edge or Saffron or private class
1:00 pm daily ≥ 10 people as

Six Senses Samui, Choeng Mon 2,200++ 4+
Dining on the Hill a private class
9:00 am market tour

≥ 12 people as
Spice Spoons at Anantara Bophut, Bophut 2,200++ 11:30 am cooking class 12+
a private class
Spice Spoons kitchen
Any day of the week ≥ 6 people

Belmond Napasai 1,900++ 4+
Secret Countryside or private class
❖ ++ Most prices exclude government taxes (7%) and hotel service charge, if applicable (typically 10%).
❖ For full details of each class, see our cooking class blog posts: Family-Friendly Cooking Classes.
❖ Non-guests welcome at all of the above. Details current as of June, 2015.
Cooking classes make a great rainy day activity –

and almost all teach you how to make Pad Thai

ADVENTURE AND ADRENALINE
What to pack to get sporty on Samui?
Above all, great sun protection. For water sports, consider a UPF-protective rash guard shirt. Definitely
pack sports sunscreen with a high SPF and a reliable mosquito repellant. If you forget anything, try Super
Sports in Central Festival. There’s limited availability of ‘performance’ athletic wear on the island, and
less so anyone larger than “Thai size”, however this shop is an appreciated exception.
❖ Consider packing: A microfibre travel towel. Nice to have the option for a spontaneous
swim, not to mention the ‘gentle glow’ you’ll acquire doing anything active in Thailand’s heat.
(Youphoria travel towel at Amazon)
MOUNTAIN BIKE AND CYCLING TOURS
Samui Bicycle Tours1

Half- and full-day tours (and “brutally beautiful”, rather mountainous, custom tours) in English, Thai,
French, Spanish and Mandarin. Equipment is first-rate, routes are varied and fascinating, and helmets are
mandatory – always a good sign of a professional outfit who knows their stuff.
Samui’s Rainbow Tours2

Half- and full-day cycling excursions can accommodate any fitness level, at any pace. Rainbow Tours’s
expat team has spent over a decade exploring Samui by bike – a depth of knowledge not easily
replicated. Prefer to walk? Guided nature treks and island tours are also offered. A Koh Samui Guide
reader had the following praise: “I cannot recommend Adam enough for the experience he gave us of the
island and showing the children what life is really like away from the big hotels and main areas. Some
thing I would definitely recommend to families who are keen for their kids to experience the culture and it
was extremely good value for money.”
Above: Samui Bicycle Tours takes you biking along

Bang Kao beach, amongst other places
1 Samui Bicycle Tours http://www.samuibicycletours.com and Instagram http://instagram.com/samuibicycletours
2 Samui Rainbow Tours (including dive, snorkel, cycle and road tours) http://rainbow-scuba.com

TREKKING TOURS
Hiking on Samui1
Earn views most visitors will never see. Dutch trekking guide Femke offers hikers of all levels "a true jungle
experience" – and grippy shoes are recommended! Hike options differ in length and difficulty, from a few
kilometres to a strenuous 13.5 km mountain climb. Many routes are suitable for children or beginners,
with hidden waterfalls, native flowers and fruit trees to enjoy along the way. Camping also available.
ZIP-LINING/CANOPY TOURS
Canopy Adventures2 || Maenam

After an instruction period and practice session at base camp, clip on to a zip-line canopy tour 35 metres
above the jungle floor. Skim past tree tops and a narrow waterfall on a journey stopping at eight tree-
houses. Free hotel pick-up is available for the 4X4 journey to Maenam, however helmets are not provided.
SPORTS AND EXERCISE
RUNNING / WALKING
Beach running: Maenam Beach is one of Samui’s longest beaches; longer and flatter than Bophut. Local
schools’ track teams train on Bophut beach (very early in the morning) as it’s got a steep slope and very
soft sand. If you want to build some brand new quads, try Bophut. If possible try to make it there before
7.30 am to beat the heat.
Centre photos: Bophut Beach is an especially tough run

– the sand is very soft
Trail running: Determined to brave the heat? Enjoy island trail runs with a strong caution about knowing
where you’re going (and what scaly creatures you might meet on the way); much of Samui’s interior is
undeveloped jungle. Many expat residents enjoy regular trail runs and welcome visitors to join them (and
their savvier sense of direction): The Samui Runners Club3 is a friendly bunch with weekly runs and
other events. They’re your best source for upcoming running races, too. (In a typical year there are a
number of short charity fun runs (under 10km): a midnight run through Chaweng, plus a marathon and
triathlon). If you need even more endorphins, meet up with the Samui Triathlon Club4 instead.
1 Hiking On Samui: http://hikingonsamui.com
2 Zip-lining and canopy tours: http://canopyadventuresthailand.com
3 Samui Runners Club: https://www.facebook.com/SamuiRunnersClub
4 Samui Triathlon Club: https://www.facebook.com/SamuiTriathlonClub

Road running: Running along Samui’s ring road (a total loop of 51km) is possible and some choose to do
it. As lazier types with a strong safety bent, we don’t recommend it for two reasons: (1) road surfaces are
pot-holed and uneven concrete, with plenty of ankle-rolling opportunities per mile. (2) Busy traffic can
make pedestrian activities a hair-raising proposition. However, if you’re used to running Ironman
distances in extreme heat then you already know you’re crazy and we won’t say another word.
Walking: Early morning is a beautiful time of day to enjoy a much quieter Koh Samui. Bring a friend and
enjoy walking the length of Maenam, Bophut or Chaweng beaches. Choeng Mon is too short to bother for
a run of any merit, but it makes a very pretty walk (or morning yoga spot).
GYMS (WITH AIR-CONDITIONING)
Most of Koh Samui’s larger, chain resorts have gyms of various sizes. However, those that cater to sporty,
healthy types likely offer much stronger, colder air-conditioning than at standard, box-checking, “we
should put a gym in our hotel” hotels. Koh Samui resorts with great gyms, and other fitness facilities
(including yoga, tennis, Muay Thai lessons, etc) include:
DAY PASSES Body & Soul Fitness Centre 1 || Taling Ngam

(at Elements Boutique Resort & Spa) Open to guests and visitors alike (day passes and memberships
available). Come for a morning beach yoga or volleyball session, then stay for weight training or to prance
around the 150 square metre gym, trying any of their 15 machines.
GUESTS ONLY Santiburi Beach Resort, Golf & Spa2 || Maenam

Sporty families will enjoy guest use of various cardio equipment (including spinner bikes), plus air-
conditioned squash, Muay Thai lessons, lit tennis courts, an outdoor jogging trail (1.2 km) and football/
soccer pitch. ❖ hotel details page 22
GUESTS ONLY FIT Gym3 || Maenam

(at W Retreat) Enormous, with ocean views to boot. In their words it’s not a gym but an “energy-charged
fitness space”. Choose from Pilates, Fit Ball, Muay Thai, etc., or book a private class. For free weights and
cardio equipment, guests have 24 hour access. There’s also a tennis court, plus ‘Energy Agents’ and
‘Beach Ambassadors’ ready to arrange beach volleyball and trampolining. ❖ hotel details page 22
GOLF
Santiburi Samui Country Club 4 || Maenam

High up in the hills above (and with an incredible view
of) the north coast, is Samui’s only 18-hole golf course.
It offers full cart and caddy service, with shoes and
clubs available for rent. A dress code is in place and
reservations are necessary. If you’d rather not navigate
towards jungle, contact the club directly to make
shuttle arrangements. 6,930 yards, par-72 course.
1 Body & Soul Fitness Centre at Elements Boutique Resort: http://elements-koh-samui.com/body-soul-fitness.php
2 Santiburi sports: http://www.santiburisamui.com/sports-centre-detail
3 W Retreat: http://www.wretreatkohsamui.com/fit
4 Santiburi Samui Country Club: http://www.santiburi-hotel.de/index.php/en/home-golf-en

YOGA
As Koh Samui positions itself more and more as a destination for all things green and healthy, its yoga
options are really expanding. Namasterfully add some yoga to any portion of your holiday – it’s a perfect
rainy day activity (or means of hiding from a strong noon sun). A number of options are available around
Samui, but these are amongst the better known:
OUR FAVOURITE Vikasa Yoga Retreat1 || Lamai

On a gorgeous ocean-front site between Chaweng and Lamai, you can choose to stay at Vikasa for full
yoga retreats or simply drop by for a single class. They also offer a “Healthy Day” pass should you decide,
at any point, that your body is a temple. An inclusive, all-shapes-and-sizes-are-welcome attitude makes
Vikasa an ideal beginner’s choice. ❖ hotel details page 25
YOGA RETREATS
A number of resorts with a health-focus offer holidays built on invigorating sunrises at frightening times of
day, lots of yoga, and perhaps little else (certainly not Samui rum). Will you see results? Absolutely. Will
you be sad never to see a Samui Nutella pancake? Only you can say. Amongst the offerings:
Absolute Sanctuary 2 || Choeng Mon

Lessons, retreats, teacher training and detox packages at a big property near Choeng Mon Beach. Pop in
for the odd lesson, or stay on site for a full programme. As it’s (rightly) quite secluded, you’ll need
transport to get out and explore between sessions. Beginners welcome.
Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary3 || Na Muang

A Worldwide Health & Wellness Destination finalist4 in 2016 – buckle up for a wellness journey. As such,
your Personal Yoga Synergy package includes not just private yoga instruction but a Body Bio-impedance
Analysis and Kati Vasti (which we Googled with some trepidation. It’s a back massage).
Left to right: beach yoga, SALA Samui guest yoga,

Absolute Sanctuary beach class, The Yogarden schedule
1 Vikasa: http://vikasayoga.com
2 Absolute Sanctuary: http://www.absolutesanctuary.com
3 Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary: http://www.kamalaya.com/yoga-retreats-thailand.htm
4 Kamalaya Worldwide Health & Wellness Destination finalist: http://professionalspawellness.com/site/2016%20Awards%20Finalists

YOGA AT YOUR HOTEL
Barely out of bed? In this case, you’ve got options! It’s easy to fit occasional yoga into a more traditional
Samui beach holiday. Many resorts offer group yoga classes or private instruction. The following have
dedicated yoga salas or studios and great fitness facilities:
Banyan Tree Samui ❖ hotel details page 25 Mantra Samui Resort at Booking.com
Elements Boutique Resort at Booking.com SALA Samui ❖ hotel details page 28
Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui W Retreat Koh Samui ❖ hotel details page 22
❖ hotel details page 34
YOGA STUDIOS
The Yogarden1 || Bophut

Tricky to find* – and maybe that’s the point. Once inside the olden-days teak house, even sleepy
Fisherman’s Village seems a distant, dispatched stress. Take a variety of yoga lessons (including full
retreats and teacher training) in an open-air studio, before flopping on a bean bag, with something
wholesome from the on-site café. Beginners very welcome. *In Fisherman’s Village, face The Shack and
head down the side alley towards Castaway Guesthouse. Reach the back wall, and turn down small
corridor at the left – on its right-hand side is Yogarden’s back gate.
Yoga House 2 || Lamai

Dmitry from Yoga House recently got in touch to introduce us to his studio in Lamai. They offer yoga
classes, meditation and spa treatments with both English and Russian language service. We haven’t tried
it ourselves but are happy to pass along the details.
Need more? There are dozens more options – hole-in-the-wall studios come and go across the island in
the most unlikely places.
❖ Yoga prices? You’ll find prices very competitive to big cities (often in gorgeous, landscaped,
open-air and ocean-view spaces). As you’d expect, higher prices reflect prettier surroundings
in pricier parts of the island. Prices in Thai baht and USD (rounded up to the nearest dollar).
Current as of February, 2016
❖ 1 class (drop-in): 300-650 THB (US$9-19)
❖ 10 classes: 2,625-4,500 THB (US$74-126)
DIY YOGA
Unroll your mat and go! Rather do your own thing? If space is a bit tight, ask at reception if there’s quiet
corner you can use for a little while. Otherwise, hit the beach! Take a friend and find a stretch of sand to
call your own. Even on a popular beach like Choeng Mon, we find it stays quiet until as late as 8:30 in the
morning – just a handful of dedicated runners, fishermen and other early risers.
1 The Yogarden: http://www.theyogardensamui.com
2 Yoga House: http://house-yoga.com/en/home

WHAT TO AVOID?
#1. ELEPHANT RIDES / TREKKING
Full disclosure – we’ve been accused of being preachy about not riding elephants. We’re okay with that –
we’ve done our homework and utterly defer to the experts (see links below and next page). Here’s our
piece: If you research only one thing before visiting Thailand – please take a few minutes to learn what
elephant-riding/performances entail and what your money supports and condones. It’s really not pretty.
Unfortunately, neither is it without its dangers:
❖ February, 2016: Scottish tourist killed by elephant on Koh Samui
❖ August, 2015: Thai elephant gores handler to death and runs off carrying three tourists
❖ “At least 7 people have been killed by elephants at wildlife parks in Thailand in the past year...
5 of them mahouts who were in some instances killed in front of the tourists atop their
elephants”. Koh Samui elephant park opens two weeks after British tourist trampled to death
Hole in trunk, likely from bullhook Mother and baby separated; both chained Bullhook A ‘safari’ experience
❖ How are elephants trained to accept riders? “The "training crush" often involves taking
young elephants away from their mothers and then caging, starving and beating them.
Crushing also involves making the constricted elephant stay awake for days”.
This Is What Happens Before The Elephant Ride
What do you need to know?

Suffice to say, these are very unhappy animals. As first-time visitors ourselves, we paid for (and thus
supported) an elephant-riding activity that – had we known better – we would have completely avoided.
It was miserable1 and we really regret it. Since then, we’ve read a lot on the subject of captive elephants
for the tourist trade. With as little oration from us as possible – please take five minutes to learn what
riding elephants in Thailand entails:
1 Amongst the low-points, the mahout left us alone on the elephant as he went to kill a cobra with a machete ... right before our eyes.

❖ How elephants are ‘broken’ to accept riders: ‘phaajaan’ training [Warning – graphic video]
❖ Elephant trekking and tourism: Everything you need to know [Elemotion Foundation]
❖ Op-Ed: Why elephant riding should be removed from your bucket list [World Nomads]
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD?
How can you enjoy elephants in Thailand? Certainly, it’s incredible to see elephants up close and their
keepers are just making a living. However, Samui’s elephants are used purely for profit and tourists’
enjoyment, with dire consequences for the animals. If travelling elsewhere in Thailand, animal welfare
watch-dogs thoroughly recommend the following genuine elephant sanctuaries:
1. Elephant Nature Park1 || near Chiang Mai

❖ Watchdog scorecard: 45/50 2 “Best in Class”
1
❖ Donate or a 6-month adoption for US$50 (choose an elephant to adopt)
2 2. Boon Lott’s Elephant Sanctuary3 || near Sukhothai

❖ Watchdog scorecard: 42/50 4 “Best in Class”
❖ Donate or a 1-month adoption for US$30 (choose an elephant)
At both locations elephants are treated like elephants and live within a herd – no
riding, tricks or performances. Visits and volunteers are tremendously
encouraged but must be booked in advanced. Read others’ reviews: Elephants in
Bangkok
Thailand [Pinterest board].
3. Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand5 || Petchaburi

3 A tireless organisation helping not just elephants but a huge variety of rescued
captive animals (including tigers, sun bears and various primates) in various
stages of rehabilitation. The foundation runs an Elephant Refuge & Education
Center – Asia’s first completely chain-free elephant sanctuary. Visitors are very
welcome for half- and full-day tours, or you can volunteer in a variety of
Samui capacities. A 2-hour drive from Bangkok with a second rescue centre in Laos.
❖ Donate or a 1-year adoption for US$50 (choose an animal to adopt)
❖ If your itinerary won’t accommodate a visit to one of the above,

please consider skipping elephants entirely and making a small
donation in lieu. All three are registered foundations in Thailand and/
or UK charities. On Samui, an elephant ride (with circus-like
performances to follow) costs approximately 600-1400 THB,
depending on its length (US$17-40 / GBP 12-30).
1 Elephant Nature Park: http://www.elephantnaturepark.org
2 Right Tourism ‘Zoo Review’: http://right-tourism.com/2014/11/elephant-nature-park-zoo-review/
3 Boon Lott’s Elephant Sanctuary: http://www.blesele.org
4 Right Tourism ‘Zoo Review’: http://right-tourism.com/2014/11/boon-lotts-elephant-sanctuary-thailand-zoo-review
5 Wildlife Friends of Thailand: http://www.wfft.org

Good monkey on the beach Bad monkey on the beach Good view Bad dye job
#2. OTHER SAMUI ANIMAL ATTRACTIONS TO AVOID
Lest you think we’ve forgotten half the attraction map, here’s the caveat: Koh Samui’s animal attractions
will upset and dismay animal lovers where treatment and parades of tricks seem, sadly, decades out of
date. Can you skip the photo op? Many such seedy attractions can be avoided thoroughly; there’s so
much else to enjoy. Before visiting any Samui animal attractions, we recommend you read other visitors’
reviews on TripAdvisor (find links in the footnotes) to help decide what deserves your patronage, if
anything. Also on the island are tiger zoos, crocodile farms and on and on through the food chain.
Monkey Theatre1: Recent reports suggest the Monkey Theatre has closed – little surprise considering
that, at last count, the TripAdvisor terrible reviews outweighed the excellent by 24:1.
Samui Snake Farm2 : “Look but don’t touch” is the motto of the Samui Snake Farm, a reptile zoo home
to Thailand’s many venomous snakes. Daily 60-minute shows feature performers (such as “The Scorpion
Queen”) interacting with snakes and scorpions in a way many might find just too close for comfort.
Safari Park Experience 3: There are tigers, bears, monkeys and even baby elephants. If you pay, you
can have your picture taken with them – lucky them. Just as bad is the Samui Aquarium and Tiger Zoo
- which received a poor rating from animal welfare watchdogs (14.5/504 on a recent score card).
Paradise Park Farm5 : A mainstay of the tour bus route. With a hillside location on Khao Pom (page
116), yes, it has a good view (above). However, we’re hopeful the view restaurants on page 81 mean you’ll
happily skip the paradise that is – genuinely – dyed pigeons and a chained-up, one-eyed squirrel.
❖ Monkeys on the beach: Occasionally, you’ll see touts walking around with monkeys (or
iguanas) – most often on Chaweng and Lamai beaches. The vending method involves
dropping a monkey on a sunbather to hold, and then more or less demanding payment to
take it off (a “photo opportunity”, or such). From Care for the Wild: “these so-called ‘photo-
prop’ animals are usually taken from the wild at a young age. To capture the babies it is not
uncommon for their mothers to be killed”. They are “usually badly treated... and discarded
when they are less ‘cute’”. A strong “no” rather than interest or amusement will help to stem
this not-so-nice practice. Learn more: Photo Prop Animals [Care for the Wild]
1 Monkey Theatre’s TripAdvisor reviews: http://bit.ly/1xrAt5Q
2 Samui Snake Farm’s TripAdvisor reviews: http://bit.ly/1uUa9du
3 Namuang Safari Park’s TripAdvisor reviews: http://bit.ly/13zhyJD
4 Zoo Review for Samui Aquarium and Tiger Zoo:
http://right-tourism.com/2014/11/samui-aquarium-tiger-zoo-ko-samui-thailand-zoo-review
5 Paradise Park Farm TripAdvisor reviews: http://bit.ly/25e7jWg

41 THINGS TO DO WITH CHILDREN
BIKE RIDE || Samui Bicycle Tours, page 129 NIGHT-TIME || Release a fire lantern together, page 100
BOWLING || Bowling locations, page 145 PAINT || Kaset Art Studio, page 169
BUILD || An enormous sand castle, page 27

PLAY || Samui’s best hotel kids’ clubs, page 171
CLIMB || Aquapark Samui, page 169

PLAY || Fairways Samui (18 months +), page 168
CLUE GAME || Escape Break, page 145

PLAY || Skippy Wonderland, page 168
COOKING || Adults’ cooking classes (12+), page 126

PLAYGROUND || Central Festival, page 167
COOKING || Kids’ cooking class (5+), page 169

PLAYGROUND || The Wharf, page 167
DAY TRIP || Ang Thong Marine Park, page 109
: SNORKEL+SCUBA || Snookah Diving, page 170

DAY TRIP || Koh Tan, page 113
SPA DAY || Kiddie spa treatments, page 169

DIVING || PADI Bubble Maker courses, page 170
STAND-UP PADDLE || iSup Samui, page 122

ELEPHANT || Adopt one instead of riding it, page 134
STAY UP LATE || Walking streets, page 103

EXPLORE || Island road trip ideas, page 114
GO-KARTS || Easy Kart, page 169 SWIM || Samui’s best kids’ pools, page 38
GOLF || Santiburi Samui Golf Course, page 131 TREASURE HUNT || Treasure Island Map, page 168
HIKING || Hiking on Samui, page 130 TRY || Some Thai food, page 90
I SPY || Watch the boats in Nathon, page 117 VIDEO GAMES || Pirates of the Marioland, page 170
KAYAK || Rent a kayak, page 121

VISIT || Big Buddha + Mummified monk, pg. 107/116
LEARN || How to say something in Thai, page 59

VOLUNTEER || Dog and Cat Rescue Samui, pg. 168
MINI GOLF || Sanuk Mini Golf, page 168

WALK UNDER THE SEA || SeaWalking, page 169
MOVIES || Theatre locations, page 146

YOGA || Vikasa, page 132
MUAY THAI || Four Seasons Resort, page 168
ZIP-LINE || Canopy Adventures, page 169

137
SHOPPING || WHAT TO BUY?
Want to shop for yourself or keep your mother happy? Samui shops have gifts for everyone. Tourist areas
of Samui are full of souvenir and clothes shops, and it’s easy to find bright and colourful “beach things”,
plus knock-off sunglasses, postcards and “I heart Full Moon Party” tank tops. Frequent visitors to
Southeast Asia may recognise the tell-tale speckled coconut wood souvenirs and trinkets from around
the region, and if your heart is set on a t-shirt with a local beer logo emblazoned on the front, you’ll be
fighting vendors off in Chaweng.
WHERE TO SHOP?
BIGGEST || Central Festival 1 || Chaweng

Opened in 2014, Central Festival has completely changed the face of Samui’s shopping, offering a range
of shops that could resupply anyone’s lost luggage: Uniqlo, Havaianas, RipCurl, Esprit, Crocs, ‘Oriental
Princess’, plus mobile phone and souvenir shops and lovely cafés. On a hot day it’s nice for browsing in
air-conditioned comfort (while the mall is open-air, shops crank the A/C). Find its main entrance by
Chaweng Lake, with plenty of free parking available (if parking on site, bring your passport to show the
friendly guys at the security gate). Many hotels offer free shuttle service.
Central Festival’s own department store is on-par with equivalent shops of major cities: friendly staff,
‘just-right’ air-conditioning, with all ages, occasions and styles catered for (and just enough One Direction
on the stereo to get you reluctantly bouncing along). Find Laura Mercier cosmetics, Burt’s Bees, Body
Shop, and a fantastic toy section. Fix rainy days or improve lazy ones with Scrabble, Pictionary, Monopoly,
Lego, Play Dough and the entire Frozen merchandising line.
Chaweng’s other outdoor mall option is Central Shopping Plaza (of the two, it’s Central Festival by a
wide mile).
1 Central Festival mall: http://www.central.co.th/en/store/locations/central-festival-Samui/index.aspx

Central Festival (1-6)
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 10
8 9
11 12 12
Koh Samui AIrport (11-13) The Wharf (7-10)
BOUTIQUES || The Wharf 1 || Bophut

Koh Samui’s answer to boutique shopping. From the same developers as Central Festival, it again offers
tremendous choice, however, all merchants must be local to Samui so it’s host to independent and
eclectic little shops. Find clothes, home furnishings, souvenirs (and durian ice cream, page 86) in a
charming outdoor mall environment (just a few minutes’ walk along the beach road to Fisherman’s
Village). A central food court makes easy work of snacking. Best of all: an enormous, free parking lot (with
a helpful security guard to assist with your turn off the ring road).
1 The Wharf: http://www.thewharfsamui.com

LAST CALL || Koh Samui Airport1 || Near Chaweng
A nice selection of shops in an outdoor pedestrian mall. The shops are before security, so it’s fine to visit
just for window shopping (or resign yourself to carrying your haul home in your carry-on). On that score,
Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport has good shops, too.
NATHON
Want to window-shop at your own pace? Nathon has a similar souvenir selection to Chaweng high street,
with none of the hustle. Not worth a cross-island trip, but if you happen to be passing...
SPA PRODUCTS || Little Buddha Aromatherapy Products

A fantastic shop packed with local bath products and natural cosmetics. It’s coconut oil heaven (made
from Koh Samui’s coconuts; the best in Thailand!). Also browse an incredible selection of essential oils,
some particular to Thailand – ‘Dork pud’ is a memorable inclusion. To the left of 7-Eleven on Nathon’s
“main road” – one block in from the sea.
LYCHEE WINE || Thai Winery House and Souvenirs 2

The delightful proprietor, Khun Nush, has local dessert wine from Thai fruits (mangosteen, lychee, etc)
and is an excellent source of info for all things Thai. Learn all about the mangosteen’s many uses, and
browse organic soaps and more. Or – sample some wine! On the seafront road, Preedarad Road. Open
daily 11 am - 8:30 pm.
FURNITURE || Khunchan Furniture and Home Décor

A packed shop of Thai furniture, décor items, spirit houses, Buddha figures, carvings, baskets and more.
Fall in love with something not-quite-suitcase-sized? They ship internationally – no problem!
Also worth mentioning:
❖ Tesco tends to have a decent selection of ‘stocking stuffer’-type souvenirs – key chains, coin
purses and small tokens to bring back to the office. Boots and The Body Shop are also found
within the Tesco shopping complex. Clothing options include Levis, Sloggi, and great basics:
shorts, T-shirts, swim suits, etc.
❖ Walking streets are great places to browse at leisure, with lots of snacks in between (page 103).
❖ Beach vendors: For the supremely lazy (or very tactical), beach vendors are available, but are
never pushy.
❖ Hotel gift shops (especially resort hotels) tend to have great little finds with your luggage limits
(and mother-in-law) in mind.
Gift shop at Bangkok

Suvarnabhumi Airport
1 Samui Airport shopping: http://www.samuiairportonline.com/shopping
2 Thai Winery House & Souvenirs: http://thaiwineryhouse.com

WHAT TO BUY?
What’s the best thing to buy on Koh Samui?
If you’re keen to support local trade, that would be coconuts. Before tourism, coconuts were the island’s
main industry. Absolutely anything you want from a coconut – wind chimes, salad spoons, shampoo,
monkey statues – anything – can be found on Samui.
Top row: Coconut products galore, Samui t-shirt

Bottom row, left to right: Thai candy (with a handle!) spa products, dried Thai fruit
Local Samui coconut oil: Where to buy it? If you leave your hotel but once, it will find you. Prices vary
depending on the packaging, shop location and whether it’s for internal or external use (i.e. not for
cooking). Most offerings are organic and were pressed within 3 days of the coconut harvest.
Spa products and essential oils: In addition to coconut oil, you’ll also find scented candles and
essential oils from plants and flowers you’ve never heard of. Bamboo diffusers are currently enjoying the
spotlight. Overwhelmed by the choice? Is everything threatening to relax, soothe, calm, refresh, de-stress
and otherwise charm and embalm you? You can’t go wrong with lemongrass.
Thai food and snacks: In addition to a bottle or two of Magic Alambic rum (page 117), recall your
favourite holiday hangover with some Sang Som (Thai whiskey). As for food, don’t forget the dried durian,
rambutan jam and coconut candy. Find a favourite and stock up! Like to cook? Get your fill of (sealed)
Thai curry packets, and spices in bulk – including cinnamon sticks to last a lifetime.
❖ Check your home country’s customs rules for bringing back food: bringing random, sticky
substances into Australia is obviously a terrible idea.

JEWELRY
The following shops will be able to show you their Tourism Association of Thailand licence, which offers
peace of mind that you’re buying the jewelry you think you’re buying.
OUR FAVOURITE || Nature Art Gallery 1 || Chaweng

An outstanding, quality shop. Choose from a beautiful
selection of gem stones and ready-made jewelry. Or,
design wedding rings or a treasured memento. All pieces
are made in-house by the shop’s owners and their
Nepalese goldsmiths. Many orders are completed the next
day. Highly recommended! Two locations: One within
Central Festival and the main store just outside Central
Festival on the Chaweng Beach Road.
Classic Gems2 || Chaweng

Offers hand-made, 14 or 18-karat jewelry and a certificate of authenticity to boot. Have something
custom-made and delivered in just three days . Opposite Samui Central Beach Resort.
THAI ARTS, CRAFTS AND HOME DÉCOR
Visit Bophut high street, Nathon or Fisherman’s Village to find wooden carvings, silk wall hangings, and
the ubiquitous Thai triangular cushion. Any of these provide the perfect Samui take-away.
❖ Beware of Buddha: While many of these shops are quite happy to sell you Buddha statues or
images, they can’t (legally) be taken out of the country.
Pretty lights: If you live somewhere with 220v electricity, keep a look-out for a particularly pretty piece of
Thailand, available in shops and at markets across the island: lamps, lanterns and fairy lights of all
description.
Art: Copies of famous paintings are available all over Samui, with a higher concentration in busier
Chaweng. (If buying a copy, try some friendly bargaining for a slightly better price). For a truly special
keepsake, ask the artists if they do commissioned or custom work. Many do.
Lastly, should you want an 8-foot-tall, scrap metal robot, you’ll find a selection for sale near the airport.
1 Nature Art Gallery: http://www.thailand-jewelry.com
2 Classic Gems: http://www.classicgemsamui.com

THAI SILK
Jim Thompson Silk 1 || Various locations

Wide range of silk items in traditional and contemporary designs. Locations
include Chaweng at Central Festival Mall, Centara Grand and Koh Samui Airport.
❖ Who is Jim Thompson 2? Thompson was an American expat Art for sale in The Wharf
credited with reinventing the Thai silk industry and, in 1967, he just
– vanished. Like Amelia Earhart, there are theories as to what
happened, yet his mysterious disappearance remains unsolved.
On a budget? There’s plenty of ‘looks silky-ish’ stuff available at market stalls,

beach vendors and even Tesco: cushion covers, table mats, bed spreads, etc.
CLOTHING
Lost luggage? Central Festival will be your one-stop shop(s). While Uniqlo and
chain stores have everyone covered, you’ll probably have more success in Gift shop at Belmond Napasai
boutiques if you’re petite (Thai-sized), as much of the clothing selection runs (page 22)
small. Chaweng and Fisherman’s Village have a high concentration of shops,

while Tesco and its surrounding mall complex is great for basic made-in-China
stuff and has a large selection of kids’ clothing.
Tailors? No need to find them, they’ll make sure to introduce themselves as you walk past their
shop. We tried a tailor once and found the experience unsatisfactory. That said, it was our first
visit to Thailand and we’re now older and wiser. The sheer number of tailors suggests that others
have better luck – so by all means proceed with a drop of “buyer beware*”. Fabrics are better
suited for cooler climates – i.e. wool suits. When you choose your fabric, take a sample with you so
you can check it against the finished product.
*The best outcome is that you go home satisfied, with well-made clothes that fit. Or, like us, you could get
nothing in return for your investment. Probably most transactions fall somewhere between these extremes.
BOOKS
Book shops: The major local chain is Bookazine, which stocks more or less airport titles. The largest
shop is on Chaweng Beach Road, opposite McDonald’s. Otherwise, there are used bookshops on the high
streets of bigger beaches, such as Panda Books in Chaweng. Selection in both is predominantly English,
with smaller shelves in everything from Swedish to Japanese.
Borrowing and market stalls: If you’re not picky and any Grisham book will do, many beach restaurants
and bars have “leave-a-book-take-a-book” swap shelves, while some hotels have libraries. (Excited to raid
our hotel’s lending library last year, we counted a few hundred books in Russian and German – and one in
English… Eat Pray Love). Walking streets often have a second-hand book stall – about THB 100 per book
(US$3/≤£2). Pack a Kindle if you’ve got one!
1 Jim Thompson Silk: http://www.jimthompson.com
2 Jim Thompson: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disappearance_of_Jim_Thompson

❖ Too much sunshine? There might come a point in
your trip when you need a break from the sun. If you’re
lucky to be sitting on Choeng Mon Beach (page 27) at
the time, head straight beneath the beautiful tamarind
trees surrounding Honey Cottages (page 80).
Otherwise, any of the rainy day activities that follow

(next page) work just as well if you need to cool down
or take a UV break. Many involve air-conditioning.
144
RAINY DAYS & STRONG SUN ||
WHAT TO DO?
A good rain storm. You’ll either see it coming or, especially dramatically, the skies will just open and let
loose. Unless you’re caught in a white t-shirt, it’s a memorable and refreshing half hour. If it lasts longer...
What is there to do while it’s raining?
From a resort side, Samui is very well equipped for rain – huge umbrellas are provided, there are lots of
wide overhanging roofs and thick plastic windbreaks roll down when the weather rolls in. Enjoy all the
luscious corners of your resort or villa, including outdoor living rooms and weather-proofed salas. You
might not want to swim during rougher weather, but it’s still a perfect temperature for cocktails and
Jenga. And massages. And reading. And learning to cook Thai food. And coconut shakes by the dozen....
Whether it’s raining or you’ve had enough sun, the following list of indoor activities is ready and waiting.
❖ Consider packing: A travel game you’ll enjoy.

If your group gets bored quickly, bring rainy day back-up.
We keep a pack of Uno cards handy, as it’s a game that
works for all ages and all group sizes. For a group of
(horrible) adults, Cards Against Humanity is laugh-‘til-you-
cry funny. Otherwise, Bananagrams is the Shrek of travel
games: suitable for young children but wry and suggestive
in adult hands (Games at Amazon.co.uk). Locally, find
board games for sale at Central Festival, page 138.
CLUE GAMES || Escape Break1 || Beach Republic, Lamai
An indoors clue-game to solve in 60 minutes or less. Game options include escaping a doomed ghost
ship, recovering a kidnap victim, preventing a deadly global epidemic and finding hidden treasure (Lara
Croft-style). Suitable for adults (and children ages 8+), for groups of 2-5 people. Located at Beach
Republic in Lamai.
Bowling? Try Living Bowl Centre (12 lanes, in Chaweng, near McDonalds) or Major Bowl Hit (8 lanes,
Tesco-Lotus on the Bophut-Chaweng ring road next to the cinema).
1 Escape Break: http://escapebreak.com

MOVIE THEATRE || Major Cineplex 1 || Central Festival + Tesco-Lotus
Catch Hollywood’s latest at Major Cineplex (locations at Central Festival and

Tesco-Lotus) in English with Thai subtitles. The former is brand new and set to
impress. Depending your seat choice (normal, ‘honeymoon’ or a couples’ opera
seat), expect an evening movie to cost just US$4 per person. Buy tickets online or Major Cineplex
at Central Festival
at the box office. Be ready to stand up for the national anthem before the show.
PLANNING FOR A PERFECT RAINY DAY
Indoor food and drink: Ready to eat the entire menu? Outlast a storm with two (very leisurely)
breakfasts, two lunches, then every fruit shake on offer. Oh, and happy hour starts early when it’s raining.
For any-time coffee, snacks or rainy-day-greedy-food, Karma Sutra (Fisherman’s Village, pg. 83) and
Angela’s Bakery and Café (Maenam, pg. 87) are ideal. And, to spend an “is it still raining, I hadn’t noticed”
afternoon, reserve High Tea at Zazen (Bophut, pg. 81). Still hungry? Take a Thai cooking class (pg. 126).
Don’t move a muscle: Got a good view? Get comfy and watch the storm clouds from your bed. Then,
add a movie. Borrow a DVD from your hotel’s media library – many have them! If your WiFi is particularly
robust, you can equally enjoy Netflix (it works in Thailand with a limited ‘Western TV + Movie’ range) or
download an iTunes movie. While you’re busy doing nothing – write some postcards!
Go shopping: Easy solutions to rain: Central Festival Mall in Chaweng (plus the large complexes attached
to Tesco and Big C). At Tesco, browse the huge fruit and vegetable display, stock up on curry paste and
other souvenirs. Or take the time to get a piece of custom jewelry made at Nature Art Gallery, page 142.
Enjoy a spa day: Heed the call of “hello, massaaaage” and submit to the sublime.
Once your shoulders are sorted, have a foot massage. Beach massage huts pack up
shop if bad weather sticks, so look to one of Samui’s particularly special spas. When
finished, add a pedicure. You might be there all day....
Dog Rescue Centre volunteering: The island’s animal shelter houses 400 dogs
and 100 cats in two locations: Chaweng and Taling Ngam. Volunteers are always
welcome, for any length of time. No experience with animals is required but do
wear scruffy clothes (page 168). “Feel free to visit
the puppy house”
Hit the gym: If staying somewhere without a gym (or a fairly mundane one), get a day-pass to one of
Samui’s best gyms: Body & Soul Fitness Centre (Taling Ngam, page 131) or the classes and facilities at
Vikasa (Lamai, page 132). Rather do the hard work lying down? Attend a drop-in yoga class, page 133.
Left to right: Tongsai Bay bar, pineapple shake, fruit carving, rainy Chaweng
1 Major Cineplex Central Festival: http://www.majorcineplex.com/cinema/major-central-samui and Major Cineplex Lotus Samui:
http://www.majorcineplex.com/en/cinema/major-samui (the websites are in Thai – let Google Translate kick in)

24 THINGS TO DO ON A RAINY DAY ☂
BOARD GAMES || Bring your own, page 145 MUAY THAI || Four Seasons, page 168
BOWLING || Bowling alleys, page 145 NETFLIX AND... || Romantic hotels, page 37
CLUE GAMES || Escape Break, page 145 PUPPIES || Dog + Cat Rescue Samui, page 168
COFFEE + BOOK || Karma Sutra, page 83 RENT A CAR || Road trip ideas, page 45
COOKING CLASS || Class options, page 126 SHOPPING || Central Festival, page 138
DESIGN JEWELRY || Nature Art Gallery, pg. 142 SPA DAY || Samui’s best spas, page 124
DRINK || Bee's Knees brew pub, page 93 STORM-WATCH || Banyan Tree Lounge, page 82
:FRUIT CARVING || SITCA, page 127 THAI || Mind Your Language, page 60
HIGH TEA || Le Salon de Ti, page 81 WATCH SPORTS || Bondi Bar, page 102
LAZY DAY || Starfish and Coffee, page 120 WORK OUT || Body & Soul Fitness, page 131
MANI/PEDI || Cyan Spa, page 124 WRITE || Postcards, see below
MOVIES || Major Cineplex, page 146 YOGA || Drop-in yoga studios, page 133
Postcards and postage? For the luddites determined to send a glossy piece of cardboard back home,
postcards are widely available – stamps too, usually from the same shops. Finding somewhere to send
them is a little trickier – the Nathon and Maenam post offices are foolproof solutions, but out of the way
for most visitors. Look for a red box with “Thailand Post” stenciled on the side. Watch out for postbox
impostors, as our last attempt to send a postcard was foiled – a legitimate-looking box with sealed slots,
which a local told us was for “decoration only”!
❖ Saving for a rainy day? It might be worth setting aside some of your vacation budget for a
rainy day. That way, bad weather gives you every reason to indulge and – if you only see
sunshine – you can splash out on your final night’s dinner.
What not to do on a rainy day?

Avoid visiting Big Buddha and the island's waterfalls when it’s wet (steep, slippery steps). We wouldn’t
contemplate any jungle activities as dirt roads can wash away or get bogged down. Let’s all remember
Dennis Nedry’s poor life choices.

ISLAND EVENTS || WHAT’S ON?
Besides national holidays and big, yearly fixtures (like the Samui Regatta), many island events (festivals,
parties, road races and tournaments) are confirmed just a few months (or weeks) in advance.
2016 events* include:
❖ 01 New Year’s Day ❖ 12 Her Majesty the Queen’s Birthday
January ❖ 23 Samui Ride and Run Festival August ❖ 12 Mother’s Day in Thailand
❖ 24 Full Moon ❖ 18 Full Moon
❖ 08 Chinese New Year

❖ 14 Valentine’s Day
February September ❖ 16 Full Moon
❖ 22 Full Moon
❖ 22 Makha Bucha Day
❖ 23 Full Moon ❖ 16 Full Moon

March ❖ 26 Midnight Run October ❖ 23 Chulalongkorn Memorial Day (in
❖ 27 Easter honour of King Rama V)
❖ 06 Chakri Day
❖ 13 Songkran, page 149 ❖ 14 Full Moon
April November
❖ 22 Earth Day ❖ 15 Loy Krathong festival
❖ 22 Full Moon
❖ 01 Labour Day (02 observed)

❖ 05 His Majesty the King’s Birthday
❖ 05 Coronation Day
May ❖ 05 Father’s Day in Thailand
❖ 21 Full Moon
December ❖ 10 Constitution Day (12 observed)
❖ 21 Koh Samui Regatta (to May 28)
❖ 14 Full Moon
June ❖ 20 Full Moon ❖ 25 Christmas, page 152

❖ 31 New Year’s Eve, page 155
July ❖ 20 Full Moon
*Find the most up-to-date events calendar on our blog:

http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/koh-samui-events-2016

Bright shirts popular
at Songkran
SONGKRAN (THAI NEW YEAR) APRIL 13-15
Songkran – the water festival – will be among the most memorable festivals you ever experience. Only in
Thailand do cheerfulness and cheekiness collide – in full litres and gallons – with such spontaneous
celebration. Though there’s much more to the Thai New Year (aspects that tourists busy with their Super
Soakers will never see), Songkran’s full day of water fights can’t be missed.
❖ Consider packing: A high-quality waterproof phone case. Cheap ones are widely for sale
during Songkran and we have a very dead, very fried phone to prove they don’t work. A FRiEQ
universal waterproof phone case is highly recommend to save this most prized possession.
Don’t forget – if you just bought a new camera, your new Thai friend just bought a new bucket.
(Case at Amazon.co.uk).
What is Songkran?
It’s New Year in the Thai calendar, celebrated in the middle of Samui’s hottest period. Despite its soggy
reputation, Songkran still centres on food and family. Much like New Year celebrations the world over, it’s
a time to return home, visit loved ones and to wash away bad luck for a new beginning.
Super Soakers, water canons and buckets have replaced the gentle water-pouring of yore. What began as
a gentle sprinkling of water over family and friends’ hands or shoulders is now an energetic, country-wide
water fight.
SONGKRAN FAQS
Is Songkran good?
Readers have asked us this and we’re not sure if they mean ‘a good time’ or ‘good rather than evil’. Big
yes to both. It’s a holiday of great sanuk (fun) and is an occasion for the entire community to come
together in well-wishing. As far as international equivalents, imagine a mixture of Western and Chinese
New Year, with aspects of April Fool’s Day, Easter, India’s Holi and China’s Qing Ming.
What will the weather be like?
As it so happens, the day after Songkran – April 16th – is Samui’s hottest day (on average)1. Remember to
drink as much water as you throw.
1 Koh Samui April weather: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/4/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand

Is it a bad time to visit Koh Samui during Songkran?
If you can’t handle (A) mid-April’s very hot weather, (B) the often hilarious cheekiness of total strangers or
(C) crowds, you probably know the answer. Otherwise, while there are a few things that sensible people
should know in advance, Songkran is a real highlight.
Is Songkran safe?
Just like on New Year’s Eve and holiday periods in your home country, there’s an
increased risk of drunk drivers. As such, beware on roads (as a driver and a
pedestrian). Alcohol sales are strictly monitored throughout Songkran in efforts to
keep the (very wet) roads safe. Drinking aside, road safety can become an issue when
those driving scooters or motorbikes get a face-full of water.
Songkran in action
on the ring road
Is Songkran safe for children?
Imagine a child’s glee – freedom to soak as many adults as they like! Yes, Songkran is tremendous fun for
children but you’ll want to choose an appropriate base. Parts of Samui, like anywhere, get rowdier than
others (e.g. Maenam, below left, is quieter than Chaweng).
HOW TO JOIN IN
Never get angry: It’s all in good fun (getting angry is perhaps the #1 ‘Don’t’ in Thailand, page 57).
There’s no viciousness: Standard school playground rules apply. Immunity is, of course, afforded to
uniformed police, monks, the elderly, etc.
What you need: A bucket, bottle or water pistol. Hoses are likely weaponry and the truly enthusiastic
roam the streets from the beds of pickup trucks. We’ve even seen a fire-hose attached to a large water
truck, but couldn’t suggest where to get one.

Good Songkran outfit Not so good....
What to wear?
Running shorts and and a dark T-shirt are ideal. A swimsuit

underneath is fine, but do wear other clothes on top (no bikini tops).
Ladies, avoid white shirts and – this is a bit awkward – white trousers!
❖ Dress as though you’re going to the supermarket knowing you’ll be thrown in a pool on your way
there. Waterproof sunscreen (or, better yet, a UPF shirt) is crucial. Note temple dress codes (page
66) if you’re observing any religious aspects.
WHERE TO CELEBRATE SONGKRAN
It depends how fully committed and ‘in the thick of things’ you’d like to be. Choose Maenam or Choeng
Mon if coming with children or a hope for something less than total bedlam (Chaweng and parts of Lamai
will offer the latter). Easier still? Just stay where you are and enjoy the day with familiar faces and a supply
of dry towels nearby.
What to expect at your hotel during Songkran?
Think you’re staying somewhere too stuffy or high-end for Songkran? Think again! Thailand is set to
surprise you. We’ve even been soaked in the lobby of a 5-star hotel in central Bangkok – by the hotel’s
own doorman. Many hotels will offer guests the chance to take part in both traditional and ‘fun’ aspects
of Songkran, likely including: a ‘Ramwong’ parade with drumming, sand castle building (for hotels on the
beach), ‘Tak Bart’ monk and water blessing ceremonies, Thai dancing, live music and lucky draws.
Songkran on Koh Samui is a deluge of good-spirited fun, best experienced up close, in person and
without reservation.
Chaweng
Maenam

CHRISTMAS ON KOH SAMUI
A new and improved white Christmas? With some planning and a measure of good cheer, a Koh Samui
Christmas could become your family’s default holiday preference. Breakfast on the beach, followed by
presents? A beautiful day together, then Christmas dinner – that someone else cooks and cleans up? If
you distill ‘the important bits’ – whatever that might be to your family – you can have your Christmas
pudding and eat it too.
CHRISTMAS FAQS
What is Koh Samui like during Christmas?
Though low-key, no one does merry like Thai people and you’re assured of big smiles and an inclusive
attitude, however you like to celebrate. Santa hats pop up on unlikely heads and, at the
InterContinental (page 35), Santa arrives by jet-ski. While Christmas is embraced as a good time in
tourist areas of Thailand, it’s not an official holiday. Shops, restaurants and attractions (unless expat-
owned) remain open as usual.
Does it rain in December?
Yes. But we’ll sugar-coat it. November is the centre of Koh Samui’s rainy season, which can run into
December. Weather improves throughout the month and Koh Samui’s average temperature on
December 25th is 26–29°C (79–84°F). While weather science suggests a likelihood of clouds (77–88%
average cloud cover), there’s only a 37% average chance of Christmas Day rain. If you’ve come from
somewhere cold, you might not care – even “bad” weather in Samui still means shorts and t-shirts.
When to book flights and hotels?
Book as early as possible! Hotel rates peak for the Christmas/New Year period. We compared rack rates
for the nights of June 25 and December 25 at various Samui resorts and found that many doubled at
Christmas. Many five-star places require a 7-night minimum stay over the holiday period, so you can’t
help but settle in and relax in full.

CHRISTMAS FOOD AND DRINK
Where to eat Christmas dinner?
Options abound for every budget. There’s great variety in dining

options – some even offer home-made eggnog and brandy butter
(Poppies, page 80). Whether you prefer to eat on Christmas Eve or
Christmas Day, or prefer a brunch, lunch or dinner, you can recycle
some ideas from our 2015 Christmas dining blog post1 . Any
restaurant mentioned on our ‘special celebrations’ list (page 85)
would make an excellent choice. Wherever you choose, we really
recommend making reservations.
Christmas hotel galas?
If you’re staying in a hotel, you’ll likely be invited to its gala dinner (included in your
reservation). Gala dinners tend to involve an enormous buffet, Thai cultural
performances, flowing drinks and a lively band. Verdict? Not that painful if you like
drinking and/or other people’s children. You’ll struggle to find a hotel that doesn’t
make such arrangements, it’s just “the way”. (Sandalwood Luxury Villas, page
25, is a notable exception). Otherwise, you might prefer a private villa, page 39.
Angela’s mince pies
Where can you buy Christmas alcohol?
Due to import tariffs, wine, port and champagne are expensive in Thailand (page
94). If you can spare the weight in your checked luggage, bring it with you.
Mince pies and Christmas foods: Angela’s Diner in Maenam (page 87) bakes
fresh mince pies but phone ahead to avoid disappointment. Candy canes,
Christmas puddings and a good selection of cheeses are usually available at Tops
or Tesco-Lotus (page 94).
Candy canes at Tops
WHAT TO BRING WITH YOU
If you’ve never travelled over Christmas, you might be concerned that it becomes an anti-climactic non-
event. Not so! It just takes a little planning, and a tiny bit of luggage space. We distill our Koh Samui
Christmases to (easily transportable) sights, sounds and smells*:
❖ Cranberry sauce
❖ Mulled wine spices: A hotel kettle can work magic!
❖ Christmas pudding: If you don’t have a microwave, ask if your hotel can warm it up for you.
❖ After Eights: Keep them in the fridge, “Thai After Eights” ooze rather quickly.
❖ Santa hats: They are available somewhere on the island, but we’d rather not spend time looking.
1 Christmas and New Year events (2015): http://www.kohsamuisunset.com/christmas-new-year-2015

Anantara Bophut (page 16)
And, of course, any traditions special to your family. Ours are pretty tasty, but you might know
better. Double-check customs allowances if in doubt and never pack any meat, dairy or raw fruit and
vegetable products. *All foods should be packaged, unopened and clearly labelled.
Presents? Does a tropical Christmas still require pressies? Tell your family how lucky they are to be on
holiday in such a nice place – see how that goes. Otherwise – how about a Thai cooking class (page 126)?
If material goods are called for, see the shopping chapter (page 138).
Packing presents: When packing, leave presents unwrapped in your suitcase (in case customs has a
look), but also bring a selection of gift bags and tissue paper from home. On Samui, quickly pop
everything in gift bags – no need to find tape or scissors and plenty more time for the beach. Clever, no?
A Koh Samui Christmas will be different, memorable, and – we hope – your best yet.
Central Festival Christmas trees inside and out!)

NEW YEAR’S EVE ON KOH SAMUI
Whether New Year’s Eve is a highlight of your year or just another drink at midnight, we offer a few choices
for making the evening whatever you’d like it to be.
Where’s the best place for New Year?
Love fireworks? Rule of thumb: the bigger the beach, the bigger the fireworks (but even small hotels will
probably have a few). Whether you’ll be on a beach at midnight, or somewhere with a view – Koh Samui’s
New Year fireworks are great.
After midnight: Once the pyrotechnics finish, the evening gives way to a
quieter practice: khom lhoy, or Thai floating lanterns. Set them off together
or with new friends (last year our whole hotel joined in together – staff and
guests swapping techniques). It’s meant to send wishes skyward; a
beautiful way to start a new year, even for cynics.
Beach parties? On smaller beaches, like Choeng Mon (page 27), the show’s
over by 12:30 – 1 am. This is great for families with kids, but you’re welcome
to dance the night away – Thais are generally game for a party. If you want a
party with a capital P, Chaweng – as usual – will meet your needs. A raucous
A New Year khom lhoy
affair with celebrity DJs, a Chaweng New Year goes well into January 1st.
Beach clubs like Nikki Beach1 and Beach Republic2 offer similar.
What to wear?
A Koh Samui New Year can have any dress code of your choosing – squeeze into a little black dress for
champagne and canapés, or show up in pyjamas on Maenam beach. Five-star hotels request ‘smart
elegant’ for their New Year gala events. (Ladies: re-read our dressy shoe tips, page 65).
1 Nikki Beach: http://www.nikkibeach.com/destinations/beach-clubs/koh-samui
2 Beach Republic: http://www.beachrepublic.com

NEW YEAR FOOD AND DRINK
New Year’s Eve Dinner?
While many restaurants have set menu dinners for New Year’s Eve (obviously
at steeper, special occasion prices), you must book in advance. Typically,
every seat on every plane to Koh Samui is booked over the New Year period –
meaning the island’s restaurants are just as full. Restaurants attached to
hotels may give preference to their own guests, and some shut to outside The Tongsai Bay (page 29)
at New Year
patrons entirely.
Prefer a casual night on the beach? Broadly speaking, reservations won’t be necessary at local Thai
places (unless you have a big group or want a prime beach-front table). However, once you’ve found a
favourite spot, double-check that it will be open – many close for the night or host parties for their staff.
Hotel galas? Whether you’re on a first-name basis with the gardener and the girls at reception, you will
be by midnight. Thais love a good party, and even though Western New Year is adopted, expect hotel staff
to be equally in on the fun. If staying at a resort, we really recommend partaking in their in-house
celebrations. For one, you eliminate any transportation worries and won’t need to find ATMs. As well,
Samui’s hotels do a fantastic job of dressing up and decorating for the holidays. If you’ve paid to stay
somewhere, why not enjoy it on the night it’s sure to look most beautiful?
WHAT TO BRING WITH YOU

(Hard to find) ‘New Year’ tat: You might want to add some tacky New Year accessories to your suitcase
– you never have enough novelty headwear after a few drinks.
(Expensive) champagne: If it’s not New Year without champagne, bring your own (packed carefully in
your suitcase). Due to heavy taxation, champagne costs many monies in Thailand (page 94). Worse still,
owing to limited island supply, shelves empty quickly at holidays.
STAYING SAFE
We’ve seen some surprising sights during our Samui New Year’s Eves (not least of which was sitting in a
traffic jam behind an elephant). You’ll have a great time but we should flag two safety precautions.
Drunk drivers: True anywhere at this time of year, but especially on Koh Samui where “vacation brain”
affects many visitors who know better. If possible, arrange your evening to start and end within walking
distance from your hotel room or plan to use a service like NaviGo (page 42).
Fireworks: Though the shows are spectacular, fireworks are fairly freely available to anyone who’d like to
have a go. Be aware of your surroundings (should you find yourself around a drunk with a bottle rocket –
and be ready to move to a safer distance). Hotel-produced fireworks will be better organised.
Choeng Mon Beach NYE

+ actual sleeping baby

Hoopoe Olive backed sunbird
BIRD-WATCHING & PLANTS ||

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE?
Following our 2013 edition, a reader wrote to say: “The guide is proving an interesting and informative
read. The only thing missing was where the good bird viewing spots were (LOL). A bit specialised I know”. So
here’s a little specialisation for any like-minded souls.
❖ Consider packing: Throughout our well-hydrated bird-watching

sessions, we rely utterly on our battered Birds of Thailand book in
tandem with A Photographic Guide to Birds of Thailand. Though only
used copies of the former are available on Amazon, its still well worth it;
it’s a great book.
Thailand bird bibles

KOH SAMUI BIRD-WATCHING TIPS
Favour the weird ones, or delight in sheer quantity? There’s a great variety of birdlife available both year-
round and during seasonal migration, and Samui’s topography means a rewarding variety in a relatively
small space. As well, building codes on the island are unique amongst other Thai tourist destinations. No
building can (legally) be taller than its surrounding coconut trees, so you can always look up and expect
to see something. (Actually, dead coconut trees are a great place to start).
Don’t try too hard: Our scientific bird-watching method is usually “sit somewhere pretty, order a round
of drinks, and wait”. No matter where you sit, whether at sea level for the waders, slightly up hill to get a
good view of birds of prey, or into thicker jungle landscapes for some brightly coloured beauties, Samui
will reward your attention.
Book into nature: To bird-watch lazily, still in your PJs, consider booking into
a hotel or villa that embraces nature. Compared to the birds we’ve seen in
Thailand (currently a well-earned 21), Tongsai Bay (page 29) counts 60
resident bird species. (Their 25-acre property is also, unusually, kept totally free
of pesticides). Also visit a variety of Koh Samui’s gardens (page 159), where
where tropical flowers attract tiny birds with beaks in crazy shapes.
Get to the beach: The biggest bird we’ve seen in Thailand, a white bellied sea
eagle, was spotted while eating lunch at Zazen (page 81). Nothing too taxing:
all of our birdlife has come to us (or – more accurately – flown away from us). The Tongsai Bay

Keep your eyes open for cage-sized scooter
cargo and, more than likely, you’ll soon see a
type of bird called the red-whiskered bulbul
headed to its next contest. In the wild they’re
a protected species so much it’s easier to let
one drive right past you.
Bird-singing competitions: Bird-singing is a traditional past-time in many parts of Southeast Asia, and
remains especially popular with generations aged ‘Baby Boomer Plus’. On Koh Samui, songbird
competitions are held twice a week and the annual championship draws 400 competitors. Note that
these competitions are not tourist events but occasions that matter very much to those involved. If you’d
like to visit, be on your best ‘culturally aware’ behaviour (page 57) and be sure to dress appropriately
(page 66). More details: See flyingbirdsamui – it’s in Thai but Google Translate gets the basics, and some
of the videos are interesting: http://flyingbirdsamui.blogspot.ca
Sip some (birds’ nest) soup: Also, the Five Islands on Koh Samui’s southwest corner (page 112) is home
to a large nesting swift population, whose nests are harvested for Chinese ‘birds’ nest soup’. Tours in
long-tail boats are available around the islands.
Get golfing: The restaurant at Santiburi Country Club (page 131) sits way up high, 290 metres above
sea level, amongst thick coconut groves. You should expect to see lots of birdlife busy at sunset. While the
course earns high praise from golfers, ‘regular people’ are welcome to visit for lunch or drinks and enjoy
the view. Also try heading into Samui’s steep hills to somewhere like The Jungle Club (page 82).
Asian palm swift Indian roller
White bellied sea eagle Oriental honey buzzard
Pied Besra
imperial
pigeon
Yellow browed
warbler Brahminy kite
Shikra Myna bird Pacific reef egret Cattle egret

BIRDS WE’VE SEEN ON KOH SAMUI
❖ Asian fairy bluebird ❖ Common tailor bird ❖ Pacific reef egret
❖ Asian palm swift ❖ Greater coucal ❖ Peaceful dove
❖ Besra (we think) Hoopoe Pied imperial pigeon

❖ ❖
❖ Black bellied malkoha bird Indian roller Shikra
(spotted by a reader) ❖ ❖
❖ Large-billed crow ❖ Spotted dove
❖ Brahminy kite
❖ Myna bird ❖ Yellow browed warbler
❖ Cattle egret
❖ Olive backed sunbird ❖ White bellied sea eagle
❖ Chinese pond heron
❖ Oriental honey buzzard
Left to right: red needle, lotus, canna lily, peacock flower

PLANTS AND GARDENS
Coming to Koh Samui, you’ll expect palm trees and lots of orchids. But there’s so much more to
Thailand’s plant life! Even the smallest parcels of land have plants, trees and vegetation that look – to our
Western eyes – wildly colourful.
Butterfly gardens: As well, there are at least two butterfly gardens on Koh Samui – neither reviewed
terribly favourably on TripAdvisor. Koh Samui has at least 321 types of butterflies so you might prefer to
sit in a pretty corner of your hotel and let them come to you.
Resort and restaurant gardens: Some of Koh Samui’s larger resorts have done incredible things with
their landscaped gardens. Stop by any of the following for a cocktail and enjoy a leisurely garden
exploration. Amongst these, Four Seasons Resort (page 34) has over 150 varieties of flowers, while
Orgasmic Restaurant (page 79) has 50 types of orchids. Anantara Bophut (page 16) has both an
ornamental garden and a small kitchen garden. Melati Beach Resort (page 28, near Choeng Mon) is
huge and meandering, with lots of pond features.
Garden centres: A keen gardener might relish a visit to any of Koh Samui’s numerous garden centres.
Find them on the fringes of main beach towns. Keep in mind that Samui’s garden centres are often small,
family-owned businesses and while they’ll be happy to have interested visitors, they’re not tourist
destinations. As a show of goodwill, consider buying a small plant to enjoy during your stay. You won’t
believe how little an orchid costs on home turf.

KOH SAMUI WITH KIDS ||
PLANNING A FAMILY TRIP
WHERE TO STAY WITH CHILDREN?
What’s the most family-friendly beach?
Many of Samui’s soft beaches suit even the chubbiest of little legs. However, there are so many factors
that will influence your perfect beach decision – from sand texture, to sunset view, to paddling or
swimming suitability not to mention what’s nearby. Personal preferences run strong for Samui beaches
so be careful when you see hyperbole thrown around. For a quick answer, (we think) Choeng Mon,
Bophut and Maenam beaches are especially family-friendly while offering enough within walking
distance for parents.
However it’s a decision to be weighed with what you want to see and do, your kids’ ages and swimming
ability, how much you want to leave your hotel or villa, and what level of convenience you want to find on
your doorstep. To chill out and do very little, add the entire west half of the island to your short-list.
Gorgeous resorts and villas dotted along Chaweng, Lamai and the south coast have a lot going for a
family seeking non-stop beach time, but aren’t as walkable. Chaweng is a busy beach with shallow water,
while Maenam is quiet but the beach is steeper. As you see, there’s no “right” choice, only what suits you
best.
❖ Where’s the water slide? We receive a lot of emails asking for resort recommendations with
kids’ water-parks and extensive water-slides. If you want the kiddie infrastructure you’d find in
Orlando, you won’t find it on Samui – it’s a much more low-key island with old-fashioned,
make-sand-castles kids’ entertainment. For massive family resorts, look to Phuket or Pattaya.
The nearest fit is Centara Grand Beach Resort (page 19), with regular amphibious assaults
on nearby Aquapark Samui (page 169).

Choeng Mon Beach, page 27
The best hotels with kids?
Amongst many notable national characteristics, Thais love children. The fatter your toddler the better –
you’ll be fighting off hotel staff and waitresses keen to cuddle and babysit. As such, don’t read “lack of
children’s pool” on a hotel’s facility list as “children not allowed”. It’s a very inclusive island.
Still, if we had to pick just one Samui hotel for families, with all the money in the world, it would be Four
Seasons Resort Koh Samui (page 34) – hands down. InterContinental Samui (page 35) has just
added Family Rooms with bunk beds, a toy chest, bean bags and tons of space (starting at 65 square
metres / 700 sqft). Rest assured, though, there are dozens of worthy options at every budget level –
perfectly suiting your your family’s interests and requirements.
If you’re the (proud) parent of a gold-medal guppy who will complete 500 screeching cannonballs from
sunrise daily – perhaps steer clear of the island’s most popular honeymoon/couples’ resorts. Identify
them as chic and discreet places who like the word ‘serenity’.
Centara Grand and Chaweng soccer

Babysitting and nanny services?
Many hotels offer babysitting (with the occasional stipulation that children are aged 4+). There’s also a
daycare/nursery at Fairways Samui (page 168, for 12 months and up) and babysitting services are
available too. For a nanny hire service, see Nanny Service Koh Samui 1 – we haven’t used them
ourselves, merely passing along the name.
1 Nanny Service Koh Samui: http://nannyservicekohsamui.com

HOTEL STAY HERE FOR... AREA
Anantara Bophut, page 16 A very walkable location and beautiful, beach-front pool. Bophut
Anantara Lawana, page 19 Sunrises + dipping your toe near, not quite in, Samui’s action. Chaweng
Banyan Tree Samui, page 25 Fantastic service, a big (separate) kids’ pool, stand-up paddling. Lamai
Belmond Napasai, page 22 Total relaxation, a bit of quirk, and lots to do. Maenam
Bo Phut Resort & Spa, page 16 The best of all worlds location, with a private pool to boot. Bophut
Buri Rasa Village Koh Samui Boutique hotel on a soft white sand beach. Chaweng
Conrad Koh Samui, page 35 Sunsets + lazy days. Pull up the drawbridge for a private paradise. Taling Ngam
Four Seasons Resort, page 34 The very best of the best: staff, service, the lot. Bang Po
Hansar Samui, page 16 Beach-front with an enormous, salt water ocean-view pool & incredible food. Bophut
InterContinental Samui, page 35 Sunsets and near-total seclusion (and Santa on a jet-ski at Xmas). Taling Ngam
Kanda Residences Pool Villa Your own pool, a beach worth exploring, in a convenient location. Chaweng
Melati Beach Resort & Spa, pg. 28 A cast-away beach holiday, in beautiful surroundings. Choeng Mon
Poppies, page 19 Total TLC, and a ‘do anything’ vacation in and out of the resort. Chaweng
SALA Samui, page 28 Quiet-time as an adorable family, and lots of sand castles. Choeng Mon
Sandalwood Luxury Villas, pg. 25 A ‘do nothing’, total get-away vacation (with views, views, views). Lamai
Santiburi Beach Resort, page 22 Enjoying a sporty, active vacation together – on the water and off. Maenam
Sea Dance Resort, page 29 A perfectly casual island beach resort at a moderate cost. Choeng Mon
ShaSa Resort & Residences Your own apartment, a full kitchen, and lots of space. Laem Set
Six Senses Samui, page 29 A total get-away, becoming ‘one with nature’ + peace & quiet. Choeng Mon
The Tongsai Bay, page 29 Fantastic staff, amazing wildlife, tennis, a shady beach-front pool. Choeng Mon
Vana Belle A “near, not in” Chaweng location + the privacy of a family villa. Chaweng
Zazen Boutique Resort, page 16 Boutique bliss, with incredible food. Bophut
Hotel names link to more details (beach, transport, etc.) on our blog.

Anantara Bophut, page 16
With teenagers?
Whether your teens will prefer tons to do within your resort, the freedom to explore Samui on their own,
or the guarantee of their own bathroom – consider the following:
❖ Any of the Bophut hotels are in easy walking distance to Fisherman’s Village (page 15)
❖ Poppies Samui (page 19) is on the southern edge of Chaweng but still walkable to the busy bits
❖ Santiburi Beach Resort, Golf & Spa (page 22) offers tons of water-sports and activities
❖ Vana Belle villas have lots of space and privacy for all guests (link previous page)
KOH SAMUI WITH CHILDREN (FAQS)
Is Koh Samui a good destination with kids?
Most definitely. Koh Samui is an ideal family destination – kids are welcome everywhere and there’s all
sorts to keep them entertained. Thais love children and eschew a “more the merrier, all ages” attitude –
as long as they’re well-behaved! At school holidays especially, Samui is a tremendously favoured spot for
families.
With young children, toddlers and babies? Free babysitting? It’s true! Bring your adorable toddler to
Koh Samui and delight in baby-mad Thai staff (at your hotel, restaurant and beyond) volunteering free
babysitting (and lots of cuddles) while you eat.
❖ Koh Samui with a baby? Culture alert! A cautious note about nudity and breast-feeding:
Thailand is a very modest country. While children and babies are beloved and welcome
everywhere, please respect this buttoned-up culture and note that breast-feeding should be
done out of public view, as discreetly as possible.

Is Koh Samui safe for kids?
To our minds, the biggest safety considerations are much the

same as any destination:
❖ Staying safe in the sun: We highly recommend

bringing your own sun protection for your children
(and for babies and toddlers especially).
SALA Samui,
❖ Water safety: In addition to ocean safety, you’ll also want to teach children in advanced that page 28
they shouldn’t drink tap water on Koh Samui (but bottled water means straws!).
❖ Traffic: Night-time visibility along many busy roads isn’t in the pedestrian’s favour. Ideally, get
from A to B with a rented car, NaviGo (page 42), taxi or a hotel shuttle (and avoid using scooters
entirely). Pavements across Samui can be uneven and tricky for strollers (page 41).
What should children wear?
As with adults (women should never sunbathe topless in Thailand), both children and toddlers should
wear swimming clothes on the beach. Thai children tend to swim in their clothes but Western children’s
swimsuits are fine.
For day-to-day clothes, review our fabric tips (page 66) and check shorts and sundress labels before
packing. Depending on the beach you’re staying on and your intentions for water-based activities, also
consider some swim shoes and a child-sized life jacket.
Shoes: Children’s Crocs are perfect. They’re easy to take on and off when entering shops, don’t need
socks, and can stand to get wet. (Is the adult version equally suited? Well, yes, but grown-ups have a
fashion police). We prefer the sandal option as it’s just as easy to remove as the clog, but you don’t need
to check inside it (tropical insects need homes too – but they don’t need to squat in your family’s shoes).
For older children, flip-flops are ideal (as long as you’re certain they’re comfortable and won’t cause
whining).
Can you buy kids’ clothes on Koh Samui? Yes, of course! We hear of many parents doing a massive
shopping spree for children’s basic clothing while on Samui. If you forget something, you can find basic
children’s clothing for sale at tourist t-shirt shops in all of the beach towns, as well as larger selections at
Central Festival and Tesco (pages 138 and 140). We can’t vouch for quality or sizes. You’ll want to bring
children’s sun-hats and swimsuits from home though.

FOOD AND DRINK FOR CHILDREN
You’ll easily find food for picky eaters and adventurous children: staple Western food (including fast food,
pancakes and burgers), plus healthier bits like plain yoghurt, made locally on Koh Samui. Gorgeous Thai
fruit, including fresh-from-the-tree bananas are no problem either! Almost all of the hotels mentioned
earlier in this section offer children’s menus and their restaurants welcome non-guests (bookings likely
required at busy periods like Christmas).
Restaurants with kids on Koh Samui? Enjoying meals out and restaurants with kids on Koh Samui is
not a problem. In fact – it’s encouraged! The staff will probably make a huge fuss over any cute and
cheeky child. Most restaurants offer children’s menus. A few, high-end fine-dining establishments specify
that ‘screaming children will not be tolerated’ but that well-behaved ones are always welcome.
Can you take kids into bars? Yes.
SHOPPING FOR KIDS ON SAMUI
Find specific baby and toddler products at Tops and Tesco (page 94). There are a number of Boots
locations on Samui, with a tremendous availability of English-speaking pharmacists as well. For absolute
basics like milk and yoghurt there’s a 7-Eleven or equivalent on nearly every corner. The following
Western brands are available (at Tesco and/or Tops), though they’re probably cheaper to bring from
home.
❖ Nappies: Huggies
❖ Baby formula: Similac and Nestlé Nan Pro
❖ Baby food: Heinz baby food jars, Baby Natura porridge and Nestlé Cerelac. With notice, many
hotels will be able to make fresh purées for you.
Where to buy kids’ toys?
Buckets and spades are easy to find, as are a small selection of inflatable pool toys – in most places you
can choose between a blow-up shark or a bright pink lilo/pool raft.

For a genuine “solve any birthday crisis” toy department, head to the upstairs of Central Festival’s
namesake department store. Entire aisles of Lego await. There’s also a toy shop right next to the
playground at The Wharf in Bophut (page 139). Tesco has a few aisles – Barbies, water guns, etc.
We recommend bringing a few things with you – jet-lag, rainy days and strong sun might require some
easily transportable activity kits or books.
WHAT TO BRING WITH YOU?
Sun protection in all shapes and forms: Keep your babies safe in Koh Samui’s v-e-r-y strong sunshine
(do err with caution!). We highly recommend bringing your own sun protection for your children. While
you’re at this mama-bear cleverness, save creases and corner bits from sunburn with a UPF sun shirt.
Many families bring an SPF packable pop-up tent for their babies and toddlers.
Mosquito repellent: Mosquitoes are ready and waiting! Luckily they’re not at all discriminating, so easily
make sure they bite someone else’s kids (page 62). You might want to bring your own preferred brand of
repellant that you know to be okay on children’s more sensitive skin. As it’s quite hard to find on Koh
Samui, we also suggest packing a tube or two of hydrocortisone cream to quickly relieve any redness
from bites. If you’re staying in basic accommodation with a baby or toddler (i.e. any part of it is thatched),
you might like to pack a travel mosquito net for the baby’s cot and/or buggy. For a chemical-free
alternative, older kids (and man-boys) might love a mosquito bat. Available at most shops, including
Tesco, it dispatches a mosquito with a (we admit) very satisfying pop – extra points if it sparks.
Activities: Depending on your children’s ages and boredom thresholds, consider using a little of your
luggage space to bring back-up activities you know they’ll love. With the possibilities of jet-lag, rainy days
and power cuts, a creative activity set or two might save the day.
THINGS TO DO WITH CHILDREN
Do you want to teach your kids to swim, or teach them about Theravada Buddhism? Whether you’re
coming to Koh Samui for a total beach holiday, or a memorable and adventurous cultural exploration –
this little island has more than enough to fill a family itinerary.
CHILDREN’S ACTIVITY FAQS
Island road trip? While we don’t recommend heading into the jungle for exploration’s sake (we’ve made
that mistake for you!), kids who love a bouncing, intrepid, hang-on-tight ride might like the journey up to
The Jungle Club (page 82) and the kiddie cocktails waiting at the Santiburi Country Club (page 131).

The Jungle Club
Ang Thong Marine Park day trip? With small children: We wouldn’t recommend it for babies and
toddlers as it’s a long day in strong sun and wave conditions can be unpredictable. Instead, consider a
shorter trip to the much closer Koh Tan and/or Koh Mat Sum (page 113). With older children: Ang Thong
is incredible destination for a family with older children who will enjoy kayaking and snorkelling and
watching for (very rare) pink dolphins (page 71). In all cases, check that your tour operator provides
children’s life jackets. Reputable ones do. If snorkelling, make especially sure to bring sun-hats and t-
shirts or UPF rash guards and slather back-of-leg sunscreen an inch thick.
Playgrounds? Find two brand new playgrounds at Central Festival and The Wharf. There’s also a
(fairly basic) play area in the domestic departures area of Koh Samui Airport.
The Wharf (right)

Central Festival (centre + left)
Children’s yoga? As a broad rule, children 12 and older are welcome to attend drop-in classes with a
parent or two. For younger children, many yoga studios are happy to organise private classes (whether at
their premises or your hotel or villa). Vikasa (page 132) is particularly savvy and – pardon the pun –
flexible to your needs.
Big Buddha? With small children: This visit might be a stretch – there’s a steep flight of stairs and, as a
religious site, you’ll need to convince them not to race up and down. However, a short visit could suit
everyone and there’s ice cream at the temple gates. For a hands-on activity, you can donate a brick
inscribed with your names (page 107).
Hiking tours? While age-appropriateness isn’t specified, Hiking on Samui (page 130) offers a range of
routes that vary in length/intensity. Families with sporty kids might love this one-off way to see the real
Samui.
Walking streets? Stay up late! (Well-behaved) kids are a welcome part of Koh Samui life – no matter the
time or venue. Weekly walking streets take place all over the island (page 103) and children are very much
invited (and included).

Volunteering at Dog And Cat Rescue Samui? Their own words: “It doesn’t matter if you want to help
only for a couple of hours or longer; every helping hand is welcome. Around 350 dogs and 100 cats are
waiting to be cuddled. You can also come with children. The dogs and cats are all very nice and lovely
and for kids it is for sure and unforgettable experience to play with so many dogs and cats.” (page 60)
❖ DCRS website: How to Volunteer

❖ A family’s experience volunteering (girls aged 9 and 11): Puppy Patrol
Elephant rides? We really understand the appeal, but ask that you do your research about what your
well-meaning tourist dollars condone when you ride elephants in Thailand (page 134). To cover the
basics, this activity would be suitable for older children only as riders need to be able to hold on tightly.
Nathon? Everyone has their window-shopping threshold, and children might tire of Nathon’s ‘gentle
look-around’ charm quite quickly. If Parent A or B wants to divert to the sea-front, there are ferries and
fishermen galore to watch from benches – even jellyfish! A great spot for ‘I Spy’ (page 117).
CHILDREN’S FAVOURITES
MINI GOLF || Sanuk Mini Golf || Fisherman’s Village

Coming from Bang Rak towards Fisherman’s Village, you’ll pass Sanuk Mini Golf on your right just outside
the village entrance. 18 holes and well-lit at night. From casual observation its opening hours are
“flexible”, but are nominally 2:00 pm to 10:00 pm daily.
TREASURE HUNT || Koh Samui Treasure Island Map1 || Island-wide

If you pass a rack of brochures and freebie maps at your hotel, the airport or at a tour desk, look for a free
Koh Samui Treasure Island Map. A clever design and smartphone/GPS integration leads you on a QR
code island tour – a great way to get your iPhone zombie children outside!
AGES 18 MONTHS+
INDOOR KIDDIE GYM || Fairways Samui2 || Near Koh Samui Airport

A bouncy, cushioned indoor “soft play centre” for ages 18 months to 8 years.
AGES 4+ Thomas lives upstairs

in Central Festival
MUAY THAI || Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui3 || Bang Po
Kids’ Muay Thai lessons (ages 4 to 15 years), with adult lessons also available. Non-guests are welcome to
book and a second child is able to join for free. ❖ hotel details page 34
LITTLE KIDS’ ARCADE || Skippy Wonderland || Tesco

A kids’ play centre in the Tesco complex. Lots of noisy arcade stuff, supermarket ride-on toys, air-hockey,
racing games, kids’ karaoke booths and a big indoor play-land like those found at McDonalds. Basically,
it’s total mayhem and kids seem to love it. To extract them, there’s a Swensen’s ice cream shop and a
Dairy Queen nearby. The bathrooms to the left of Skippy Wonderland are very clean with flush toilets.
1 Treasure Island Map: https://www.facebook.com/TreasureIslandMaps
2 Fairways Samui: https://www.facebook.com/fairways.samui
3 Muay Thai: http://www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui/services_and_amenities/other_facilities_and_services/muay_thai

AGES 5+
CHILDREN’S COOKING LESSONS || Anantara Lawana || Chaweng

Spice Spoons cooking school, ages 5 to 12 years, classes available to non-guests. ❖ hotel details page 19
OCEAN INFLATABLE CLIMBING JUNGLE || AquaPark Samui1 || Chaweng

An adventure park of giant inflatables just offshore on Chaweng Beach. The park includes slides, climbing
walls, giant seesaws, balance games and trampolines. Life-jackets are mandatory and you, the parent,
play your own lifeguard. Kids under 5 are welcome, but must have an adult to accompany them. Call on
the day to check if they’re open: currents, strong sun and rough seas shut operations: +66 (0) 945 820 313.
KIDS’ ART CLASSES || Kaset Art Studio2 || Chaweng

Kids’ art classes from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm (closed Fridays). Packages of 8 classes available for a longer
stay. Adult classes are available too – or – find Bee’s Knees Brew Pub (page 93) directly opposite.
AGES 6+
KIDDIE SPA TREATMENTS || Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui || Bang Po

Ages 6 to 11 years with parent to accompany, available to non-guests. ❖ hotel details page 34
AGES 7+
GO-KARTS || Easy Kart3 || Chaweng

Slowpokes and speedsters enjoy separate tracks (beginners and racing
tracks). Kids’ karts are available (ages 7-13), or take a two-seater adult + kid
kart. Open until 1:00 am (in case of terrible jet-lag?).
ZIP-LINING || Canopy Adventures || Maenam

In their words: “The only real requirement is that you can hold on tight, and
zip through the air. You can even bring Grandma and Grandpa along as There are a few Go-Kart tracks
on Samui, including Easy Kart
well”. Safety-minded parents: BYO-helmets! See page 130 for more details.
SEA-WALKING || SeaWalking4 || Thong Krut

At first glance, the sea-walking helmets look like a joke (perhaps even a punishment à la Cuba Gooding Jr
in Men of Honor). Yet reviews are outstanding – with equipment that lets you literally walk under sea.
Children must be at least 1.2 metres tall (3’9”).
STAND-UP PADDLING || iSUP Samui || Choeng Mon

Lessons, tours and rentals, see page 122 for more details.
1 Aquapark Samui: TripAdvisor reviews http://bit.ly/1O73GFq
2 Kaset Art Studio: http://kasetartstudio.com
3 Easy Kart: http://easykart.net/samui-kart
4 SeaWalking: TripAdvisor reviews http://bit.ly/1PS0NxV

AGES 8+
BIG KIDS’ ARCADE || Central Festival || Chaweng

An enormous section of kids’ entertainment upstairs in Central Festival. Includes
an XD theatre ride and ‘Pirates of the Marioland’ arcade centre. For smaller
children there’s a Thomas the Tank engine ride.
THEMED CLUE GAME || Escape Break || Lamai

Spend 60 minutes (out of the noon sun, perhaps) solving a clue-based game. See
page 145 for more details.
‘Pirates of the Marioland’
SNOOKAH DIVING || Snookah Dive 1 || CHAWENG at Central Festival
Get a first taste of SCUBA diving, becoming a “diver for a day”. In their words it’s
“the ease of snorkeling with the same underwater breathing experience as SCUBA
in the safest way possible.”
PADI BUBBLE MAKER COURSE || CSI Samui 2 || Bophut

Spend a few hours learning the bubble maker basics in a swimming pool, or head
to Koh Tao for full day out. In their words: “the problem we normally encounter is
not getting the kids under the water, nor getting them to understand the
equipment we use, or even the basic dive theory. The problem we have is getting
them out of the water.” Bubble Maker courses are also available with 100 Degrees XD Theatre at Central Festival
East and The Dive Academy.
AGES 10+
BIKE TOUR || Samui Bicycle Tours || South coast

Half-day and custom tours available to kids 10+, with full-day tours available to families with teenagers.
See page 129 for more details.
AGES 12+
ADULTS’ COOKING CLASSES

Older children are welcome to participate in adult cooking lessons at Samui Institute of Thai
Culinary Arts (SITCA), InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort, Four Seasons Resort
Koh Samui and Anantara Bophut (all hotel classes available to non-guests). See page 126 for more
details.
GOLF || Santiburi Samui Golf Course || Maenam

Children aged 12+ are welcome to join their parents for a round of golf. See page 131 for more details.
1 Snookah Dive: http://www.snookahdive.com
2 CSI: Samui Bubble Maker course: http://www.csisamui.com/padi-bubble-maker-course.php

AROUND YOUR HOTEL OR VILLA
Explore your surroundings: Little kids will discover Samui in ways adults never would. As such, days
with no plans whatsoever can turn into science lessons that delight you both. Find out where bananas
and coconuts come from! Boys can never seem to get enough of Thailand’s geckos (page 54), and the
vast array of butterflies on Koh Samui are really worth the attention of any Jane Goodall Juniors. Just be
sure this is a “look but don’t touch” activity and never wander from the landscaped path.
Hang out at the pool: No matter the adventures you have planned, the pool will be the biggest hit.
Sand castles, beach days and coastal exploring: Let loose on the beach starting at sunrise each
morning. Add a bucket and spade to build incredible sand castles, hunt for tiny, opaque crabs, or rent a
kayak (page 121) to explore shoreline nearby (ask about currents before you head off!)
Belmond Napasai
HOTEL KIDS’ CLUBS?
Ages 2+ Kids For All Seasons programme at Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui (8:00 am – 5:00 pm daily,
available for guests ages 2 to 12 years). ❖ hotel details page 34 and on our blog.
Ages 3+ Kids’ Club at Santiburi Beach Resort, Golf & Spa (9:00 am – 6:00 pm daily, available for
guests ages 3+). ❖ hotel details page 22 and on our blog.
All Ages 4+
❖ The Turtle Kids Club at Conrad Koh Samui (10:00 am – 6:00 pm daily, available for guests ages
4 to 12 years). ❖ hotel details page 35 and on our blog.
❖ Planet Trekkers Kids’ Club at InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort (available
for guests ages 4 to 12 years). ❖ hotel details page 35 and on our blog.
❖ Kids’ Club at Banyan Tree Samui (available for guests ages 4 to 12). ❖ hotel details page 25
and on our blog.
Honourable mention: It’s not a kids’ club, but your children might equally love The Secret Garden at
Belmond Napasai. Get ready to befriend goats, pigs, geese and bunnies galore. ❖ hotel details page 22
and on our blog.

THAILAND READING LIST ||
THE BEST 5 BOOKS TO READ
Excited to keep your Thailand momentum going? We’ve read all of these books personally, and wouldn’t
recommend anything we hadn’t pushed (vehemently) into the hands of our own mother. Cultural norms,
lady-boys, coconut milk, murder, mystery – it’s all there.
#1 PUT A LOCAL IN YOUR POCKET || Nancy Chandler’s Map Of Bangkok
Technically not a book but, in this case, far more useful. We know how much work we’ve
put into 5 editions of The Koh Samui Guide. Meanwhile, Nancy and her daughter are on
the 27th edition of this fantastic, hand-drawn pocket map. Cheers to that! It’s truly your
insider’s guide to Bangkok.
#2 CULTURAL HANDBOOK || Dos And Don’ts In Thailand
Crucial reading, especially if you hope to venture into ‘real’ Thailand, visit temples or
make new friends. A quick read on your flight will ensure the tips are fresh in your mind
for landing – best foot forward (but never upwards).
#3 BANGKOK EXPOSÉ || Private Dancer
The very best book on the subject of Bangkok's bar scene. Not high-brow literature but a
fast-paced thriller along Miss-East-meets-Mr-West-and-now-someone-will-die lines.
Perfect to read on the plane or the beach. Seriously boys, (and girls!), you need to read
this.
#4 THAI CULTURE || Mai Pen Rai Means Never Mind
A fascinating, biographical account of 1960s expat Bangkok – long before the

backpackers showed up. Amazon tends to have only secondhand copies available, but
don’t let this dissuade you. It’s a wonderful book without equal. Interesting, funny and
very readable.
#5 MURDER MYSTERY WITH A SIDE OF PROSTITUTION || Bangkok 8
“[Infused] with enough suspense, detail, and dry Asian insight to keep readers rapt as the
story careens about the bars and brothels of Thailand’s flesh trade, through its cut-rate
plastic surgery parlors, and ends in a climax with a fittingly Buddhist twist.”

THANK YOU! || WHAT’S NEXT?
Have a question?
Amongst other things, we’ve been asked if there are wild poodles on Samui. If you’re left with unanswered
questions – please get in touch: [email protected]
What did you think?

We’d love to hear your feedback and any holiday highlights. Recently, we’ve had stories from readers
about meeting 5-foot monitor lizards. Do let us know your favourite parts of the guide book, and Koh
Samui generally.
Thank you!
We really appreciate your support and thank you for taking a chance buying “something random on the
internet”. We hope you’ve enjoyed The Koh Samui Guide and that you seriously can’t wait for your Koh
Samui holiday. Thanks again, and bon voyage!
Alex and Charlie
INSTAGRAM || TWITTER || PINTEREST

OUR WEEKLY EMAIL (BLOG FEED)
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Alex and Charlie Hammond are a brother-sister pair who tend to hatch their best plans after concocting
sessions with Samui rum. Deciding to write this guide book (2012’s 1st edition) was no exception.
13 years’ Koh Samui experience: As farangs (foreigners) from cold climates, Koh Samui has been their
family’s favourite holiday spot since they first visited in 2003. Since then, they’ve returned as a family, with
friends and partners, for all manner of events and celebrations.
In writing The Koh Samui Guide they used their own holidays as reference, as well as their Koh Samui
travel blog (www.kohsamuisunset.com), begun in 2008. The more they wrote, the more they explored –
realising that this is a very big small island. The exploration continues!
2013 2014 2016

Colouring?
For your journey, for jet-lag, for the hours

between now and Samui.... Enjoy!
174
Used under license from Shutterstock.com

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1

THE KOH SAMUI GUIDE

HOW TO PLAN AND ENJOY

2016 || 5TH EDITION

The Koh Samui Guide 2

Copyright 2012-2016 by kohsamuisunset.com and thekohsamuiguide.com

All rights reserved worldwide

The Koh Samui Guide 3

Plai Laem Beach

❖ Emergency phone numbers? page 51-52 What’s a farang?

The Koh Samui Guide 4

WEATHER & CLIMATE || WHEN TO VISIT? || 08

BEACHES & HOTELS || WHERE TO STAY? || 12

TRANSPORT || HOW TO GET AROUND? || 40

SAFETY & SENSE || HOW TO STAY SAFE? || 49

THAI CULTURE & SAMUI SIGHTS || WHAT TO EXPECT? || 55

PACKING || WHAT TO BRING? || 62

YOUR ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE || WHAT TO KNOW? || 70

FOOD AND DRINK || WHERE’S BEST? || 78

NIGHTLIFE || FROM SUNSET TO STARRY NIGHTS || 98

EXPLORING SAMUI || WHAT TO DO? || 106

SHOPPING || WHAT TO BUY? || 138

RAINY DAYS & STRONG SUN || WHAT TO DO? || 145

ISLAND EVENTS || WHAT’S ON? || 148

BIRD-WATCHING & PLANTS || WHAT TO SEE & WHERE? || 157

KOH SAMUI WITH KIDS || PLANNING A FAMILY TRIP || 160

THANK YOU! || WHAT’S NEXT? || 173

The Koh Samui Guide 5

Finally, we’d love to hear about your holiday! We do our utmost

Alex and Charlie

INSTAGRAM || TWITTER || PINTEREST

The Koh Samui Guide 6

❖ Bangkok Airways ❖ Where to buy clothes?

Sea Dance Resort, page 29

The Koh Samui Guide 7

When’s the best time to come?

Will it rain during your trip?

What’s the rain like?

1 Average weather for Koh Samui: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand

The Koh Samui Guide 8

February: Best for lots of sunshine and a “not too hot,

March: Best for non-stop sunshine. Defined by the

April: The hottest month of all – a scorcher! Make sure

1 July average weather: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/7/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand

2 Dec 25 average weather: http://weatherspark.com/averages/33976/12/25/Ko-Samui-Ko-Samui-Surat-Thani-Thailand

The Koh Samui Guide 9

TEMPERATURE DEW POINT

LOW HIGH LOW HIGH

78°F 85°F 72°F 76°F

79°F 87°F 72°F 77°F

80°F 89°F 72°F 78°F

81°F 90°F 75°F 79°F

81°F 91°F 74°F 79°F

81°F 90°F 74°F 78°F

80°F 90°F 73°F 78°F

80°F 90°F 73°F 77°F

80°F 89°F 73°F 77°F

79°F 87°F 74°F 78°F

78°F 86°F 73°F 78°F

78°F 85°F 72°F 76°F