Vdoc - Pub DK Eyewitness Travel Turkey

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TURKEY
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TURKEY
Main Contributor Suzanne Swan
Produced by Struik New Holland Publishing (Pty) Ltd,
Cape Town, South Africa
Managing Editors Alfred Lemaitre, Laura Milton

Managing Art Editor Steven Felmore
Editors Amichai Kapilevich, Anna Tanneberger
Editorial Assistant Christie Meyer
Designer Peter Bosman
Map Co-ordinator John Loubser
Cartographer Carl Germishuys
Picture Researchers Sandra Adomeit, Karla Kik
DTP Check Damian Gibbs
Production Manager Myrna Collins
Main Contributor
Suzanne Swan
Other Contributors
Rosie Ayliffe, Rose Baring, Barnaby Rogerson, Canan Sılay, Dominic Whiting
Photographers
Kate Clow, Terry Richardson, Anthony Souter, Dominic Whiting,
Linda Whitwam, Francesca Yorke
Illustrators
Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Bruno De Robillard,
Contents
Richard Draper, Steven Felmore, Paul Guest, Ian Lusted, Maltings Partnership,
Chris Orr & Associates, David Pulvermacher, Paul Weston, John Woodcock How to Use this Guide 6
Printed and Bound In Malaysia.
First American edition 1995 Introducing

16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Turkey
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 Discovering
Turkey 10
Reprinted with Revisions 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016
Copyright 2003, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company Putting Turkey
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above,
on the Map 16
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission
A Portrait of Turkey 18
of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Turkey Through
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
the Year 38
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-4654-4050-1
The History of Turkey 44
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with
European usage; i.e, the “First Floor” is the floor above ground level.
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Commagene stone head on Mount Nemrut
Front cover main image: El Nazar, a rock-cut church in the Görome Valley, Cappadocia (Nemrut Daği)
Kayaköy, an abandoned Greek village in Mediterranean Turkey that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Turkey Region
by Region
Turkey at a Glance 152
Thrace and the Sea

of Marmara 154
The Aegean 174
Mediterranean Emblems of Istanbul, the Haghia Sophia

and Blue Mosque
Turkey 208
Ankara and
Travellers’ Needs
Western Anatolia 240 Where to Stay 326
The Black Sea 264 Where to Eat
The village of Üçağız, on the
Mediterranean coast and Drink 340
Cappadocia and
Central Anatolia 280
Istanbul Area Shopping in
by Area Turkey 362
Eastern Anatolia 304
Istanbul at a Glance 66 Entertainment in
Turkey 368
Seraglio Point 68
Outdoor Activities 372
Sultanahmet 82
Survival Guide
The Bazaar Quarter 98
Practical Information 380
Beyoğlu 110
Travel Information 388
Further Afield 116
General Index 400
Istanbul Street
Finder 138 Vendor selling boza, a drink made from Phrase Book 419
lightly fermented grain
Sumela Monastery (see p276)

6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most from sections, giving information on major
your stay in Turkey. It provides expert sights, with photographs, maps and
recommendations and detailed practical illustrations. Suggestions for restaurants,
advice. Introducing Turkey locates the hotels, entertainment and shopping are
country geographically, and sets it in found in Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival
context. Istanbul Area by Area and Turkey Guide contains useful advice on everything
Region by Region are the main sightseeing from changing money to travelling by bus.
Istanbul Area by Area I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A 69

All pages relating to Istanbul have
SERAGLİO POINT the same colour thumb tabs.
Turkey’s largest city has been The hilly, wooded promontory that marks
the meeting point of the Golden Horn,
The palace is open to the public as a
rambling museum, with lavish apartments
divided into four sightseeing the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus
occupies a natural strategic position.
In Byzantine times, monasteries and
and glittering collections of jewels and
other treasures. Originally, the palace
covered almost the whole of the area
public buildings stood on this site. Today, with its gardens and pavilions. Part of the
areas. Each has its own chapter it is dominated by the grandiose complex
of buildings forming Topkapı Palace,
grounds have now been turned into a public
park. Adjacent to it is the Archaeological
the residence of the Ottoman sultans and Museum, a renowned collection of finds
A locator map shows clearly
opening with a list of the sights the women of the Harem for 400 years. from Turkey and the Near East.
Sights at a Glance where the area is in relation to

that are described. The Further Museums and Palaces
1 Topkapı Palace pp72–3
2 Archaeological Museum pp78–9
Streets and Courtyards
6 Soğukçeşme Sokağı
0 metres
0 yards 400
400
other areas of the city.
7 Caferağa Courtyard
Afield section covers many Churches

4 Haghia Eirene
Historic Buildings and

Parks
8 Gülhane Park
peripheral places of interest. Monuments

3 Imperial Mint
Turkish Baths
0 Cağaloğlu Baths
1 Area Map For easy reference,

5 Fountain of Ahmet III
9 Sublime Porte
All sights are numbered and q Sirkeci Station
sights are numbered and

Sirkeci Sarayburnu
ES İ
K E N N ED Y C A DD
plotted on an Area Map. Sirkeci
located on a map. City centre

İ S TA S Y O N A R K A S I S O K
İ
Information on the sights is

ES
U
CAR A D
DARÜSS A D E S OK
DD
ĞI
D İ Y
KA
N ÖBETH
CA
sights are also marked on the

AN E
E
SO
İB CAD
Nİ
KE
N
M
H ÜD
EB
TU
US A
SU
HA
AVE CA
L
UT
easy to locate as it follows

NDD
C
RA
T AY
A
İG
A
D
AN KA
Istanbul Street Finder maps

D
AR
D
D
E
ES
S
U )
İ
İ
ALE MD AR
Sİ RK ECİ
YOL
HÜ
KÜ
the numerical order used

M
HİL
SO ET
K KO
(see pp139–44).
(SA
NA
Ğ D
I CA
KÜ Gülhane
K ÖŞ
on the map.
AY
AL
CA DD E
YE
R EB
AT
AN
İ
DES
Sİ
CA
D
DE
Sİ
Stars indicate the sights that

CAD
İSHAK
no visitor should miss.

Y
PA
D
ŞA
E
N
CA
Sights at a Glance lists the

N
DD
E
K
ES
İ
See also Street Finder map 5
chapter’s sights by category, Cankurtaran
7 0 at theITopkapı
such as Museums and Galleries, The rooftops of the Harem S T A Palace
N B Uwith
L the
A RBosphorous
E A B Ybehind
AREA For keys to symbols see back flap SERAGLİO POINT 71
2 . Archaeological
Mosques, Parks and Gardens Street-by-Street: The First
Courtyard of Topkapı
Museum
Classical statues, dazzling
THE
BAZAAR
QUARTER SERGALIO POINT
carved sarcophagi, Turkish
and Historic Buildings. The juxtaposition of Ottoman palace walls, intimately
proportioned wooden houses and a soaring Byzantine
ceramics and other treasures
from all over the former
Ottoman Empire make this
church lends plenty of drama to the First Courtyard, the one of the world’s great SULTANAHMET
outer part of Topkapı Palace. This was once a service area, collections of antiquities.
housing the former mint, a hospital, college and a bakery. Locator Map
It was also the mustering point of the Janissaries (see p60). See Street Finder map 5
Nowadays, the Caferağa Courtyard and the Fatih Büfe,
8 Gülhane Park
2 Street-by-Street Map just outside the courtyard wall, offer unusual settings for Once a rose garden in the outer Çinili Pavilion The Executioner’s Fountain is so
refreshments. Gülhane Park, meanwhile, is one of the grounds of Topkapı Palace, the (see p76) named because the executioner
few shady open spaces in a city of monuments. wooded Gülhane Park provides washed his hands and sword
welcome shade in which to escape here after a public beheading.
This gives a bird’s-eye from the heat of the city.
Museum of the
view of the key areas in 6 Soğukçeşme Sokağı

Traditional, painted
Ancient Orient
wooden houses line
each sightseeing area. 9 Sublime Porte

this narrow street.
Alay
Entrance to Gülhane Park
A Rococo gate stands in Pavilion

place of the old Sublime
Porte, once the entrance
ALEMDAR C
to (and symbol of ) the 1 . Topkapı Palace

Ottoman government. For 400 years the Ottoman sultans
ruled their empire from this vast
palace. Its fine art collections,
opulent rooms and leafy
Gülhane tram stop courtyards are among the
A
D
Entrance to highlights of a visit to Istanbul.
Key Topkapı Palace
Suggested route
Topkapı Palace
ticket office
Story boxes explore specific

subjects in detail. S
O
Ğ
U
K
C
E
Ş
Fatih Büfe, a tiny M
E
ornate kiosk, sells C
Zeynep Sultan Mosque, A 4 Haghia Eirene
drinks and snacks. D
resembling a Byzantine church, Otağ Music Shop The Byzantine church of Haghia
was built in 1769 by the daughter sells traditional Eirene dates from the 6th century.
of Ahmet III, Princess Zeynep. Turkish instruments. Unusually, it has never been
converted into a mosque.
Imperial
80 I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A
SERAGLİO POINT 81 Gate 5 Fountain of Ahmet III
The cells of this former college, arranged Built in the early 18th century, the
around a tranquil courtyard café, are 0 metres 75 finest of Istanbul’s Rococo fountains
now occupied by jewellers, calligraphers is inscribed with poetry likening it
0 Cağaloğlu Baths such as this one, there are and other artisans selling their wares.
0 yards 75
to the fountains of paradise.
Cağaloğlu Hamamı entirely separate sections. In the Turkish Baths
Cağaloğlu Baths the men’s and For hotels and restaurants in this area see p330 and p346 For keys to symbols see back flap
Prof Kazım İsmail Gürkan Cad 34,
Cağaloğlu. Map 3 E4 (5 D3).
women’s sections are at right No trip to Istanbul is complete without and massaging. There is no time limit,
Tel (0212) 522 24 24. v Sultanahmet. angles to one another and an hour or two spent in a Turkish bath but you should allow at least an hour
Open 8am–10pm daily. entered from different streets. (hamam), which will leave your whole body and a half to enjoy a leisurely bath. Towels
∑ cagalogluhamami.com.tr Each consists of three parts: a
camekan, a soğukluk and the
feeling rejuvenated. Turkish baths differ and soap will be provided, but you can
Among the city’s more main bath chamber or hararet, little from the baths of ancient Rome, from take special toiletries with you. Two
sumptuous Turkish baths, the which centres on a massive which they derive, except there is no pool historic baths located in the old city,
ones in Cağaloğlu were built octagonal massage slab. of cold water to plunge into at the end. Çemberlitaş (see p95) and Cağaloğlu
by Sultan Mahmut I in 1741. The Cağaloğlu Baths are A full service will entail a period of (illustrated below), are used to catering
The income from them was popular with foreign visitors
designated for the maintenance
of Mahmut’s library in Haghia
because the staff are happy to
explain the procedure. Even if
relaxation in the steam-filled hot room,
punctuated by bouts of vigorous soaping
for foreign tourists. Some luxury hotels
have their own baths (see p326). A suggested route for a walk
Sophia (see pp86–7). you do not want to sweat it out,
The city’s smaller baths have
different times at which men
and women can use the same
you can still take a look inside
the entrance corridor and
camekan of the men’s section.
Sirkeci Station, final destination of the
historic Orient Express Choosing a Service
Services, detailed in a price list at
covers the more interesting
the entrance, range from a self-
facilities. But in larger baths, Here you will find a small display
of Ottoman bathing regalia,
including precarious wooden
luxurious train had been
running into Istanbul for a year
by then. The design, by the
service option to a luxury body
scrub, shampoo and massage. streets in the area.
clogs once worn by women on German architect Jasmund,
what would frequently be their successfully incorporates The camekan (entrance hall) is a
only outing from the confines of distinctive windows, arches and peaceful internal courtyard near the
the home. You can also sit and stonework that mirror Istanbul’s entrance of the building. Bathers
change clothes in cubicles surrounding
have a drink by the fountain in diverse architectural traditions. it. The camekan is also the place to relax Changing Clothes
the peaceful camekan. As part of a cultural enhance- with a cup of tea after bathing. Before changing you will be given a
ment project in the area, some cloth (peştemal), to wrap around you,
of Topkapı Palace’s entrepôt Corridor from and a pair of slippers for walking on
q Sirkeci Station treasures will be displayed in street the hot, wet floor.
Sirkeci Garı the station concourse.
The station café is a good Small, star-like windows
Sirkeci İstasyon Cad, Sirkeci. Map 3 E3 Basin and tap piercing the domes
place to escape the bustle
(5 E1). Tel (0212) 520 65 75. v Sirkeci. for washing
Open daily.
of the city for a while. Sirkeci
serves the European part of
This magnificent railway station Turkey and other Euro points
was built to receive the long- west. Istanbul’s other mainline
anticipated Orient Express from railhead, Haydarpaşa (see p133),
Corridor leading into the Cağaloğlu Baths, Europe. It was officially opened has lines to Asian Istanbul
built by Mahmut I in 1890, even though the and Anatolia.
3 Feature Each feature looks

The World-famous Orient Express
The Orient Express made its first run from Paris to Istanbul
in 1889, covering the 2,900-km (1,800-mile) journey in
three days. Both Sirkeci Station and the Pera Palas Hotel
(see p112, 114) in Istanbul were built especially to receive
its passengers. The wealthy and often distinguished
passengers of “The Train of Kings, the King of Trains”
Cağaloğlu Baths
The opulent, 18th-century
Turkish baths at Cağaloğlu have
The soğukluk (intermediate
room) is a temperate passage
between the changing room
and the hararet. You will be
In the hararet (hot room),
the main room of the Turkish
in detail at an important
separate, identical sections for bath, you are permitted to
attraction, tracing its history

did indeed include kings among the many presidents, given dry towels here on your
men and women. The men’s sit and sweat in the steam
way back to the camekan.
politicians, aristocrats and actresses. King Boris III of for as long as you like.
section is shown here.
Bulgaria even made a habit of taking over from the
driver of the train when he travelled on it through The Exfoliating Body Scrub
his own country.
A byword for exoticism and romance, the train was
associated with the orientalist view of Istanbul as a
treacherous melting pot of diplomats and arms dealers.
In between steaming, you (or
the staff at the baths) scrub
your body briskly with a coarse,
soapy mitt (kese).
or cultural context, and
It inspired no fewer than 19 books – Murder on the Orient
Express by Agatha Christie and Stamboul Train by Graham
Greene foremost among them – six films and one piece
of music. During the Cold War standards of luxury crashed,
The Body Massage
A marble plinth (göbek taşı) occupies
the centre of the hot room. This
providing detailed
though a service of sorts, without even a restaurant car,
continued twice weekly to Istanbul until 1977.
A 1920s poster for the Orient Express, showing a
romantic view of Istanbul
is where you will have your
pummelling full-body massage.
information on what
can be seen today.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp330–39 and pp346–61
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
Turkey Region by Region

THE AEGEAN
Discovering the Aegean region of Turkey takes
TURKEY REGION BY REGION 175
1 Introduction
A general account
of the landscape,
Apart from Istanbul, the rest of
visitors on a panoramic, classical journey, from
Çanakkale on the Dardanelles (the ancient
Hellespont) to the finger of land off Marmaris known as history and character the country is divided into seven
the Datça Peninsula. Together, the coast and hinterland tell
a story spanning some 5,000 years of Greek and Roman history.
This is where Homer’s myths and heroes come to life. of each region is regions, each with a separate
Here, it is easy to imagine the sculpture
classes at Aphrodisias, the busy streets
buildings as a defiant trademark. The
Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (modern- given here, explaining chapter. The most interesting
of ancient Ephesus or a medical lecture
at the famous Asclepium at
Pergamum (Bergama).
day Bodrum), built as the tomb of the
Carian king Mausolus, was one of the
Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. both how the area towns and sights to visit are
Most of modern-day Turkey was
once part of the eastern Roman empire,
known as Asia Minor. Many of the
The Aegean region contains many
Christian sights. The Seven Churches of
the Apocalypse, mentioned in the Book of has developed over numbered on a Regional Map at
remote classical sites in the Aegean Revelation, surround İzmir; the last resting
region formed part of ancient Caria,
an independent kingdom whose
place of the Virgin Mary is just outside
Ephesus; St John’s Basilica is in Selçuk the centuries and the beginning of each chapter.
boundaries roughly corresponded to and the castle of the Knights of St John
the Turkish province of Muğla. Caria’s
origins are disputed but its resistance
still guards the harbour at Bodrum.
The Aegean’s original tourist resorts,
what attractions
to Hellenization is well documented. such as Kuşadası, Marmaris and Bodrum,
The Carians prospered under Roman
rule but retained some autonomy, with
have now matured, and offer superb
facilities and sophisticated nightlife.
it has to offer
their sanctuary at Labranda, and Zeus as Bodrum’s Halikarnas disco has an
their deity. The Carian symbol, a double-
headed axe, was inscribed on many
international reputation, and Kuşadası
is known for its shopping.
visitors today.
Each area of Turkey can be easily
identified by its colour coding,
shown on the inside front cover.
176 TURKEY REGION BY REGION THE AEGEAN 177
Exploring the Agean Lâpseki

Getting Around
The Aegean region is well served by
Around 26 million people – roughly a ÇANAKKALE good roads and public transport.
third of Turkey’s population – inhabit Dolmuşes ply the routes to the smaller
2
Bursa
the Aegean region. Here, incomes are
generally higher and the lifestyle
more westernized than elsewhere
TROY
Bayramic
Çan
Susurluk
towns and villages. İzmir and Bodrum
both have airports with frequent
connections to Istanbul. İzmir is also
served by rail, with connections to the
Regional Map This shows the
in the country. Tourists are
attracted to this area for its
beaches, nightlife and yachting, but Ayvac I k
Ezine
Balıkesir
Kepsut
Uma
rla r D a ğ
ı
city’s Adnan Menderes Airport. Ferry
services link İzmir, Marmaris and
Bodrum with ports in Greece.
main road network and gives an
Edremit Dursunbey
illustrated overview of the whole

there are many other worthwhile Tavşanli
sights from the green and fertile BEHRAM KALE
Menderes River Valley to the Roman Burhaniye Savaştepe
Bigadiç
city of Ephesus near Selçuk. Visitors
can explore the countryside in day-
trips from Marmaris to Knidos on
the scenic Datça Peninsula.
AYVALIK
Soma
Sındırgı
Ala
çam Dağları
Emet
region. All interesting places to
BERGAMA
visit are numbered and there are
Simav
ay ı Gediz
ır Ç Kınık
Demirci
Dikili Bak
Sights at a Glance
Akhisar Gördes
1 Çanakkale
2 Troy Aliağa
also useful tips on getting to,
yı
Selendi Afyon
3 Behram Kale (Assos)
Ça
Yenifoça
z
4 Ayvalık di
Karaburun Ge Uşak
and around, the region.

FOÇA Manisa Demırköprü
5 Bergama (Pergamum) pp180–81 Gölü Barajı
Menemen
6 Foça Marmara Kula
7 İzmir pp182–3 Mordogan Turgutlu Salihli
İZMİR
8 Çeşme
Eşme
9 Selçuk ÇEŞME Alaşehir
Pamukkale’s travertine terraces,
Urla Boz
0 Ephesus pp186–7 Dağla Çivril near Hierapolis
rı
q Kuşadası Sarıgöl Adıgüzel
Menderes Ödemiş Barajı
w Aydın
e Menderes River Valley
Tire Key
r Hierapolis pp190–91 Torbalı rı Buldan
t Aphrodisias pp192–3 Aydın Dağla Motorway
SELÇUK
y Denizli K uşadası
EPHESUS Nysa Nazilli
HIERAPOLIS Dual carriageway
u Priene
Körfezi AYDIN Sarayköy
Germencik
LEY
i Miletus
MENDERES RIVE
R VA L
Dinar
Major road
A town map shows the
Akç
KUŞADASI Minor road

o Didyma DENİZLİ
ay
Söke Scenic route

p Lake Bafa Dilek PRİENE
a Altınkum
s Labranda
MİLETUS
LAKE
Çine
Kemer
Barajı
APHRODİSİAS
Tavas
Main railway
Minor railway locations of all the sights
d Milas (Mylasa) BAFA
f Güllük
g Bodrum pp198–9
j Marmaris pp204–5
DİDYMA
ALTINKUM
Camiçi
Iasus
LABRANDA
Lagina
Yatağan
Kale
described in the text.
Stratonikeia Muğla
Tours GÜLLÜK MİLAS
h Bodrum Peninsula BODRUM

Tour pp202–3 PENINSULA BODRUM Fethiye
k Datça Peninsula Turgut Reis
Tour pp206–7 MARMARİS
Gokova
Kör fe zi
SUL A
A PENIN
DA T
Ç İçmeler
204 TURKEY REGION BY REGION THE AEGEAN 205
Datça
0 kilometres 50 Knidos
0 miles 25
Temple of Trajan, Bergama (Pergamum)

j Marmaris those who want to be observed.
Some of the bars have been
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Bodrum’s marina and Castle of St Peter
Like most of the resorts along the Aegean coast, it is difficult nicely done up and, decibels Practical Information
For additional map symbols see back flap * 35,000. n iskele Meydanı
to envisage Marmaris as the quaint fishing village it used aside, this is not an unattractive
area. There are also a number (central harbour), (0252) 412 10
to be. The stretch of beach, now lined with hotels, extended 35. ( Thu. _ Yacht Race Week
of hotels and pensions in the
to the main street until the 1990s. Marmaris was extensively area, but visitors in search of (Oct/Nov every year).
damaged by an earthquake in 1957, which destroyed most rest and relaxation would do Transport
of the old town. Today the rebuilt (and greatly expanded) better to look elsewhere. g from Rhodes. k Dalaman,
town is a top holiday destination. 120 km (75 miles) E of town,
3 Detailed Information Ancient inscriptions indicate that Marmaris was once the (0252) 792 52 91. @ NE of town
centre on Muğla road.
Dorian city of Physcus, attached to the city of Lindos and
part of the island state of Rhodes. Süleyman the Magnificent
All the important towns (see pp60–61) assembled a mighty fleet here in 1522 to
prepare for his conquest of Rhodes, at which time he
regained possession of the Datça Peninsula (see pp206–7)
By the end of October the last
of the honey and fresh summer
produce will have been sold.
and other places to visit are and had Marmaris Castle rebuilt. The Castle, incorporating a nautical museum
Environs
E Castle and Museum ( Bazaar A number of large holiday
Exploring Marmaris firms here, Gino Marine will Tel (0252) 412 14 59. Open 8am–noon Entrance from Kordon Caddesi and villages are located in Içmeler,
described individually. They Few places can compete with

Marmaris’ exclusive setting in
a sheltered bay rimmed with
oleanders, liquidambar trees
organize luxury charter cruises
for a view of Marmaris from
the water. There is berthing
for over 750 yachts up to 40 m
& 1–5pm Tue–Sun. &
The original castle was rebuilt
by Süleyman the Magnificent
in 1522 after his successful
the street beside the tourist office.
You may find a unique
item among the tourist
bric-a-brac offered
about 6 km (4 miles) around
the bay from Marmaris.
Transport to and from
Marmaris is easy,
are listed in order, following and pine forests. All major

attractions are located within
a few metres of the seafront
(130 ft) in length.
The Netsel call sign on VHF
channel 06 is “Port Marmaris”. Restored Greek houses in the Old Quarter
campaign against Rhodes.
Today, the restored structure
is a museum housing a small
up for sale in the
bazaar, among
the leather goods,
as dolmuşes
make the trip
on a regular
and can be reached on foot. Marmaris is a safe anchorage, near the harbour collection of nautical items. jewellery, herbs, basis. İçmeler
the numbering on the The harbour and quay extend

along a beach walkway that
runs the length of the town.
with no underwater currents,
sandbanks or rocks, and can
be approached night and day
P Greek Revival Houses
in Old Quarter
There are also inscriptions and
sculptures displayed in the
courtyard. More engaging for
spices and teas. A
delicious local speciality
is Marmaris honey, which is
Marmaris honey lacks the quaint
atmosphere of an
old Turkish town, as do many
in most weather conditions. Tepe Mahallesi. most visitors, however, will be produced along the scenic Datça parts of Marmaris, but visitors
Regional Map. Within each Netsel Marina

Tel (0252) 412 27 08 and 412 14 39.
∑ netselmarina.com
Gino Marine
Tel (0252) 412 06 76.
The Old Quarter around the
Castle is by far the most
charming part of Marmaris.
the panoramic view of the
harbour and old renovated
Greek houses.
Peninsula (see pp206–7). Both
are fragrant, thick and dark.

(particularly families) prefer the
pine (çam) or flower (çiçek) honey more up-to-date facilities and
much cleaner beaches here.
∑ ginogroup.com
entry, there is further Turkey’s largest and most

luxurious marina has it all –
parking, top-class restaurants,
entertainment, bars, excellent
Bar Street
Hacı Mustafa Sokağı.
Many houses that were either
abandoned or derelict have
been restored to their original
appearance. Most belong to
Marmaris Town Centre
1 Netsel Marina
detailed information on shops and plenty of service

facilities such as banks, ATMs
and travel agents. All major
Most tourist towns have their
bars and pubs concentrated
on a couple of streets. Those in
professional people who
seem to be accustomed to
strangers peeking into a shady
2 Bar Street
3 Greek Revival Houses in Old Quarter
MU
currencies and credit cards are Marmaris occupy much of Hacı courtyard or admiring a 4 Castle and Museumi D
CA
important buildings and

ST
EL
accepted for mooring, refuelling Mustafa Sokağı. Despite the handsome brass knocker. 5 Bazaar KEM
AF
Bus Terminal
AF A
MUS T
19
1km (0.5 mile)

A
and other marina services. noise, it is always worth strolling Karaca Restaurant, just outside
M
AY
IS
MU
Among several yacht brokerage along the street to observe the entrance to the Castle,
SO
DATÇA
V E N E D İ K KAN A L K E N
K
YENİYOL
Nİ
AR
has a well-preserved interior. I SO
other sights.
EGEMENLİK CAD
K
R
From the top terrace of the LU

EL
ULUSAL
YO
restaurant, you will get a
Gİ
NE
N
A
CA
wonderful view of the town TE

RS KAG
I
D
SO
BU
FA
and its numerous delightful Abdi İpekci
Park
ATATÜRK
US
TA
CAD
L
MEYD
“barbecue” chimneys. See if TÜ R K IM
A TA AC
KO
you can spot the one and Atatürk

RD
IÇMELER Bazaar
Statue
O
N
only remaining original Greek

C
A
Hamam
D
chimney from here. As you İSKELE Greek Revival

wander the cool and shady MEYD
Houses Netsel Marina
lanes above the bustle of the Castle & CA
D
harbour, you could find yourself Museum AR

OS
200 TURKEY REGION BY REGION B O D R U M wishing

2 0 1 that some of Turkey’s
Harbour
BA
RB
0 metres 300
other coastal resorts had
retained the same quaint 0 yards 300
neighbourhood appeal as
Castle of St Peter Netsel Marina, offering a complete service to touring yachts
this corner of Marmaris.
Bodrum’s most distinctive landmark is its castle, begun in Practical Information
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp330–39 and pp346–61 For keys to symbols see back flap
1406 by the Knights of St John (see p231). Its five towers Bodrum harbour.
represented the languages of its formidable inhabitants. Tel (0252) 316 25 16.
∑ bodrum-museum.com
When Süleyman the Magnificent conquered Rhodes in 1523, Open 9am–noon, 2–7pm (winter:
both Bodrum and Rhodes came under Ottoman rule and 8:30am–noon, 1–5pm). Allow at
the knights left for Malta. Neglected for centuries, the castle least 2–3 hours. Closed Mon (also
became a prison in 1895 and was damaged by shells from a Sat & Sun for Glass Shipwreck Hall
German Tower
and Carian Princess Hall).
French warship during World War I. In the early 1960s, it was This tower is on
View of the Castle Across the Harbour & several exhibits charge an
the walkway around
used to store artifacts found by local sponge divers. This led Medieval engineers ensured that the castle additional entry fee. - =
the battlements.
to a fruitful Turkish-American partnership to restore the
castle and put on display the spectacular undersea treasures
found around Turkey. The innovative reconstructions of
was virtually immune to attack. It even had
secure water supplies. For all the top sights,
ancient shipwrecks and their cargoes have brought the
museum international acclaim. a Visitors’ Checklist provides
the practical information you
English Tower
Also known as the Lion
will need to plan your visit.
Tower, it was one of
England’s first foreign
projects funded by taxpayers.
. Glass Shipwreck Hall

A steel frame supports the original
timbers of a Fatimid-Byzantine ship
thought to have sunk in 1025. The glass
shards and ingots, among other finds,
make this a time capsule of the era.
4 Turkey’s Top Sights

KEY
1 The Commander’s Tower forms

. Late Bronze-Age Shipwrecks
the inner entrance to the castle and Ancient nautical life and trade are captured
details some World War I history.
2 Castle moat
in this life-size replica of a ship that sank off
Kaş (see p218) in the 14th century BC. Historic buildings are dissected
3 Land-facing battlements
4 The Glass Hall displays
Mycenaean beads and Damascus
glass, including some items
Outer
Diving for Treasure to reveal their interiors; important
Many underwater treasures were
archaeological sites have maps

dating from the 15th century BC.
Syrian glass ingots, used in the entrance located accidentally by sponge
production of glass items, date divers who risked their health and
from the 14th century BC. endurance working at depths of
40–50 m (131–164 ft). Some of
5 Spanish (or Snake) Tower
6 Gatineau Tower
7 French Tower
the museum’s priceless displays
are the result of more than 20,000
dives and painstaking scientific
showing key sights and facilities.
research by experts and restorers.
8 Italian Tower
9 Carian Princess Hall
0 5th-century BC shipwreck
. Amphora Exhibit
Earthenware jars and pots were
The partnership between the
museum and the Institute of
Nautical Archaeology has made
The most interesting towns or
used to transport oil, wine and Bodrum a showpiece of historical
q Chapel and Eastern Roman
Shipwreck
dry foods in ancient times.
Pointed bases allowed for
upright storage in layers.
Diver recovering amphorae from the floor
of the Mediterranean
treasures beautifully preserved
in their last port of call. city centres have maps, with
sights picked out and described.

INTRODUCING
TURKEY
Discovering Turkey 10–15

Putting Turkey on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Turkey 18–37
Turkey Through the Year 38–43
The History of Turkey 44–63
10 INTRODUCING TURKEY
DISCOVERING TURKEY
Turkey is vast – the size of France and Germany Christian and Muslim Turkish history.
put together – so attempting to visit the entire Next up are three week-long itineraries,
country in one trip would be a mammoth which can be connected to form a three-
(though hugely rewarding) task. Consequently, week trip, taking visitors from the ancient
the following tours concentrate on the Greek and Roman ruins of the Aegean to the
most-visited western half of this beguiling sun-blessed beaches of the Mediterranean
land. To start with there is a two-day tour of and, finally, inland across the rolling steppes
one of the world’s truly great cities, continent- of the Anatolian plateau to the geological
straddling Istanbul, with its rich Byzantine wonderland of Cappadocia.
A Week on the
Aegean Coast Key
•
At legendary Troy and the Turquoise coast
Gallipoli Peninsula
World War I conflict zone of Aegean coast
Gallipoli, bloody battles were Çanakkale Mediterranean and
fought in beautiful locations. Troy Anatolian Turkey
•
The pretty traditional village Balıkesir
of Behram Kale and hilltop
site of ancient Assos make Behram
Kale
for a memorable outing.
•
Ascend the craggy acropolis Bergama and
of ancient Bergama to see Pergamum
its stone theatre and temples. Uşak
•
The extensive ruins of
ancient Ephesus are a truly TURKEY
world-class ancient site.
•
Discover the captivating Dinar
ancient sites of Priene, Selçuk Hierapolis
Didyma and Miletus. Ephesus
Kuşadası Denizli
•
Tranquil Lake Bafa has Priene
plenty of birdlife and remote Miletus Lake Bafa
Byzantine settlements. Didyma
Euromos
•
Bohemian Bodrum has
buzzing nightlife, a Crusader Bodrum Lake
castle and lots of beaches. Kaunos Koyceğiz
Dalyan
Fethiye Tlos
Olympos
Kayaköy Saklıkent
Gorge Phaselis
A Week on the Turquoise Coast Patara Finike
Kalkan Üçağız and
Kaş Simena
•
Explore the turtle-nesting Gorge and explore the
beach at Iztuzu from fascinating ruins of
charming Dalyan. ancient Lycian Tlos.
•
The haunting remains of •
Mellow Çıralı has a long
the Greek ghost village shingle beach, ancient
of Kayaköy stand riverside ruins and
sentinel near Fethiye. eternal flames burning
•
One of the longest deep in the pine forest.
beaches in the Mediter- •
Ancient port Phaselis
ranean, sandy Patara, is makes for an ideal
delightfully uncrowded. combination of
•
Venture into the cool romantic ruins to visit
depths of Saklıkent and beaches to relax on.
Bodrum harbour, overlooked by the Castle of St Peter
Early 12th century Byzantine frescos in Karanlik Kilise, Göreme Open-Air Museum, Cappadocia
DISCOVERING TURKEY 11
A Week in
Mediterranean and
Anatolian Turkey
•
Explore Antalya’s quaint old
walled quarter of Kaleiçi
and swim from the attractive
town beach of Mermerli.
•
The Roman theatre at
Aspendos is one of the best
preserved in the world; a
visit to the Roman ruins at
Side can be combined with
a swim at the nearby beach.
•
Eğirdir, set high in Turkey’s
unspoiled Lake District, is a
great town in which to relax
Saklıkent Gorge and admire the scenery.
Located around 40 minutes’ drive from Fethiye, Saklıkent is Turkey’s •
Conservative Konya is
longest and deepest gorge. From April to September, energetic famed for its Mevlâna
visitors can walk the 4 km (2 miles) along the bottom of the gorge. Museum, once home to
the whirling dervishes.
•
The central Anatolian
volcanic landscape of
Cappadocia is bizarrely
beautiful – all curiously
capped rock pinnacles,
rippling canyons and
Lake soaring table-top outcrops.
Tuz Avanos
Göreme Open-Air Museum
•
Backed by the symmetrical
Uçhisar Ürgüp cone of Mount Hasan, the
Antiocheia-
in-Pisidia dramatic Ihlara Valley with
Ihlara Derinkuyu its rock-cut churches is a
Valley perfect location for hiking.
Lake
Eğirdir Konya
Lake
Beyşehir
Çatalhöyük
Lake
Suğla Karaman
Perge
Aspendos
Antalya
Side
Silifke
Mediterranean
Sea Anamur
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
The Temples of Apollo and Athena, Side

Dating from the 2nd century BC, these partially
reconstructed temples in Side frame stunning
views of the Gulf of Antalya. The evening makes a
particularly atmospheric time to visit the ruins.
For map symbols see back flap
2 Days in Istanbul
Vibrant Istanbul, standing

astride Europe and Asia,
boasts a wealth of remains
from its time as fulcrum of
both the Byzantine and
Ottoman Turkish worlds.
It also has a lively arts and
nightlife scene.
•
Arriving Istanbul has two
major airports. Atatürk
Airport on the city’s
European side is linked to
The Blue Mosque with the Sea of Marmara in the background
the centre by metro, buses
and taxis. Sabiha Gökçen
world, the Haghia Sophia Ottoman-era Çemberlitaş
Airport on the Asian side
(pp86–9), a monumental church Baths (p95) makes for a relaxing
has buses to Taksim Square.
rightly famed for its mighty end to a busy day.
•
Moving on Flights from both dome and glittering mosaics.
airports link Istanbul with Day 2
many provincial cities, while Afternoon Mirroring the Morning An early start at
ferries ply the Sea of Marmara. Haghia Sophia from the far side the splendid Topkapı Palace
Buses and trains also offer of a small park is the 16th- complex (pp72–5) should help
good transport links. century Blue Mosque (pp92–3). beat the queues. Once the
Inside is the carapace of over nerve centre of the Ottoman
20,000 superb, predominantly Turks, it is composed of a series of
Day 1 blue İznik tiles that give the pavilions set amongst attractive
Morning Most of Istanbul’s mosque its name. Just west of courtyard gardens overlooking
major attractions are clustered the Blue Mosque, a long, paved the Bosphorus. Highpoints
at the end of the peninsula on square represents what is left include the exotic women’s
which the original city was of a chariot racing stadium, quarters, the Harem, the Divan
founded in the 7th century BC. the Hippodrome (p94), notable council room, the Pavilion of
An obvious place to begin today for its hieroglyphic-carved the Holy Mantle, which contains
is the Archaeological Museum Egyptian Obelisk and bronze many sacred Islamic treasures,
(pp76–7), which has an excellent Serpentine Column, originally and the Treasury, which holds
exhibition detailing the origins from Delphi in Greece. For a the famous, jewel-encrusted
and development of the city. change of scene either hop Topkapı dagger.
Delve into the Byzantine past on the tram or walk to the vast
in the eerie yet compellingly Grand Bazaar (pp108–9) for Afternoon Catch the tram out
beautiful Basilica Cistern (p90) some retail therapy in the 4,000 to the line of the 5th-century
before heading to the spiritual plus shops. A soak, scrub and Theodosian Walls (pp120–21)
heart of the Byzantine Christian massage in the nearby and follow them north to the
exquisite Church of St Saviour
in Chora (pp122–3). Here a
dazzling collection of figurative
mosaics tell biblical tales, and
frescoes rival those of the
Renaissance. From the terminus
of the Theodosian Walls at
Ayvansaray, catch a ferry down
the historic Golden Horn
(p103) to the people-thronged
environs of Eminönü waterfront
and the Galata Bridge. Walk
across the angler-lined bridge
and uphill to the Genoese-era
Galata Tower (p114), which
affords fabulous views of the
old city’s skyline of domes and
minarets, before grabbing a
beer or glass of wine in one of
View over Istanbul and to the Princes’ Islands beyond, as seen from the Galata Tower buzzing Beyoğlu’s many bars.
A Week on the remains of ancient Pergamum Day 5: Priene, Miletus

Aegean Coast (pp180–81) are remarkable. The and Didyma
Temple of Trajan dominates the South of Selçuk are three ancient
•
Getting There From hilltop; even more impressive is sites worth visiting for their
Istanbul’s Yenikapı terminal, the spectacularly steep theatre. beautiful settings alone – Priene,
take the fast car ferry or sea Stay in relaxed Selçuk (p184), Miletus and Didyma (pp194–5).
bus across the Sea of Mar- where storks nest on the columns Priene’s cobbled streets nestle
mara to Bandırma, then an of a Byzantine aqueduct. Must- beneath pines above the
inter-city coach to Çanakkale. sees are the massive 6th century Meander river valley, dwarfed by
The journey time is about Basilica of St John and the a rocky spur behind. The oracular
5 hours. Alternatively, take a Temple of Artemis – a remnant shrine at Didyma, reached by
coach from Istanbul’s Esenler of one of the Seven Wonders crossing the Meander river, is a
bus station (10 km/6 miles of the Ancient World. vast Aegean Greek temple ruin.
northwest of the city) or fly. Miletus, marooned in marshland,
•
Transport Inter-city coaches To extend your trip… sprawls around a magnificent
connect several of the major Head inland to Pamukkale, stone theatre. Stay in either
towns on this itinerary, where glistening white Selçuk or Kuşadası.
including Çanakkale and travertine formations have
Selçuk in around 6 hours. been deposited on a steep Day 6: Lake Bafa
A hire car is a better option, hillside beneath the ruins Brackish yet beautiful,
however, as some sights are of the Roman spa town of Lake Bafa (p196) is backed
tricky and time-consuming Hierapolis (pp190–91). by Mount Latmos’ distinctive
to reach by public transport. five peaks. On its remote
eastern shores, the little-visited
Day 4: Ephesus ancient site of Heracleia-under-
Day 1: Çanakkale Perhaps the best-restored Latmos awaits, while Byzantine
Enjoy views overlooking the classical ruins in the Mediter- monasteries lay hidden in the
narrow Dardanelles strait in ranean world lie a couple of mountains. There is an abun-
Çanakkale (p178), then head kilometres from Selçuk in dance of birdlife too, including
onwards to Gallipoli. Preserved Ephesus (pp186–7); allow half the endangered crested pelican.
as a national park, the battle- a day or more to see the elegant En route to Bodrum, the
fields of the Gallipoli Peninsula Library of Celsus, the Colon- incredibly well-preserved temple
(pp172–3), scene of one of the naded Street, monumental at Euromos (p196) is a must.
bloodiest campaigns of World theatre, baths and much more,
War I, are hauntingly beautiful. including intimate terraced Day 7: Bodrum
South lays Homer’s legendary houses. Spend the afternoon Lively seafront Bodrum
Troy (p178), a brilliantly people watching, exploring (pp198–9) is noted for its open-
interpreted ancient site where the 14th-century Genoese air Halikarnas disco. More sedate
many millennia of human castle, or swimming in the attractions include harbour-
history have been uncovered pretty port of Kuşadası (p185). front strolls, and the impressive
and excavations are ongoing. Stay overnight in either Selçuk Castle of St Peter, complete
or Kuşadası. with Bronze Age shipwrecks.
Day 2: Assos and
Behram Kale
Enjoy breathtaking views across
a deep-blue sea to the Greek
island of Lesbos from the
atmospheric hilltop ruins of
the Temple of Athena, the high
point of ancient Assos (p179).
The attractive village of Behram
Kale (p179), home to legions
of traditionally garbed women
proffering handicrafts and
Aegean herbs, guards the
approach to Assos. Overnight
in Bergama (pp180–81), whose
old Greek quarter clings to
the base of the acropolis.
Day 3: Pergamum and Selçuk

Built on a series of terraces
wrought from a towering
outcrop above Bergama, the The stunning white travertine terraced pools at Pamukkale
Day 4: Saklıkent Gorge

and Tlos
Visit the hinterland of a region
known in ancient times as
Lycia by exploring Saklıkent
Gorge (p217), formed by
waters tumbling down from
Mount Akdağ. Enjoy a trout
lunch at its entrance before
heading to Tlos, (p217) a well-
preserved Lycian site. Finish
with a dip off Patara beach
before overnighting again
in Gelemiş or Kalkan.
The ancient ruins of Kaunos on the western bank of the Dalyan River Day 5: Üçağız and Kale
Explore the lively resort of Kaş
A Week on the eating places, rock-cut Lycian (p218), formerly a tranquil Greek
Turquoise Coast tombs, a fine archaeological fishing village. To the southwest,
museum and a lively Friday on a magnificent stretch of
•
Arriving Arrive at Dalaman farmers’ market. Made famous heavily indented, islet-dotted
Airport and depart from by Louis de Bernières’ epic Birds coast, sits the village of Üçağız
Antalya Airport. Without Wings, Kayaköy (p216) (p220). Nearby, picturesque Kale
•
Transport Minibuses and is set in an idyllic valley, but is a (ancient Simena, p220) huddles
midi-buses link the towns, haunting reminder of the 1923 beneath the ruins of Simena
villages and resorts along population exchanges (see p62). castle and is reachable only by
this beautiful coast, but they Hotels and rental homes are boat or on foot. Simple
can be time-consuming and available in the valley. accommodation is available
frustrating to use. Hiring a in both places.
car allows you to travel at To extend your trip…
your leisure, head up remote Follow the marked coastal To extend your trip…
mountain roads to isolated walk from Kayaköy to swim Head back to Kaş (p218)
sights, and stop for a quick in the blue lagoon at Ölü for a day’s scuba diving,
dip at a sandy cove. Deniz (pp216–17). canyoning or paragliding.
Alternatively, kayak or take
a boat trip around Kale or
Day 1: Dalyan Day 3: Patara Kekova Island (p220).
Strung out along the attractively En route to the well-known
reed-fringed banks of a lazy resort of Kalkan, stop to visit
river backed by a cliff riddled Patara (p218), an ancient city Day 6: Cıralı
with mock-temple rock-cut which combines a stunning Follow the beautiful coastal
tombs, Dalyan (pp214–15) turtle-nesting beach (one of road from Üçağız to Çıralı
makes a refreshing change from the longest in the Mediterranean) (p221). Swamped in citrus
the standard resort town. Swim with the romantic, dune- groves fronting a shingle beach
in the river or take a boat down engulfed ruins of Roman Patara. and backed by high, forested
to the fine sand of beautiful Stay in either the close-by, peaks, this low-rise, low-key
Iztuzu beach, home to nesting low-key village of Gelemiş resort is the ideal place to relax.
loggerhead turtles, and explore or Kalkan (p218). In the evening visit the eternal
the ruins of ancient Kaunos flames issuing from vents in a
(p214) across the river. pine-clad mountainside.
To extend your trip… Day 7: Phaselis

Take the boat trip from A short drive brings you to
Dalyan to the warm-water the beachside ruins of ancient
mudbaths at Ilıca (p215) Phaselis (p221), where a skeletal
and onto the lake at Roman aqueduct rises above
Köyceğiz (p214). pines. Beyond it, the rest of the
ruins adjoin three beaches, and
the middle one slopes gently
Day 2: Kayaköy into a lagoon. Behind Phaselis,
On the way to the abandoned a cable car takes visitors to the
Greek village of Kayaköy is the summit for superb views of
market town and yacht harbour The beautiful lagoon and restaurant- Mount Olympos. Stay overnight
of Fethiye (p216), with abundant fringed beach at Ölü Deniz in Cıralı or Antalya (pp222–3).
A Week in to Side (pp228–9) for a day Day 5: Konya and Cappadocia

Mediterranean and exploring its attractive old town, Konya, set on and around
Anatolian Turkey Roman ruins and stunning Alaeddin’s Hill, has some fascinat-
sandy beaches. ing medieval Islamic monuments
•
Airports Arrive at Antalya left by the Selçuk Turks, including
Airport; depart from either Day 3: Lake Eğirdir the Alaeddin Mosque (p255)
Nevşehir or Kayseri airports. Turkey’s second largest fresh- and the Karatay Museum
•
Transport This itinerary is water lake, Eğirdir (p258) sits at (p255). The coach journey onto
best done by a combination an altitude of 900 m (2,952 ft). Cappadocia (pp282–3) takes in
of public transport, hire car Ringed by high peaks, it is best kervansarays that once serviced
and/or organized excursions. reached by inter-city coach camel trains on the Silk Route.
A direct inter-city coach from Antalya. Accommodation In Cappadocia, aim for a sunset
between Antalya and is either on a rocky peninsula view over the eerie valleys and
Cappadocia has a journey or a tiny island linked to the rock formations from Uçhisar
time of around 11 hours. mainland by a causeway. Look (p284). Overnight in Göreme
around the old Greek houses, (p287), Ürgüp or Uçhisar.
church and castle, or swim from
Day 1: Antalya one of the small beaches. Day 6: Cappadocia
Perched on cliffs overlooking Göreme Open-Air Museum
the Gulf of Antalya and Lycian To extend your trip… (pp288–9), with its weirdly
mountains, Antalya (pp222–3) Hire a car to tour around the eroded rock pinnacles carved
is a lively city. Its heart is the lake, taking in Antiocheia- from the soft volcanic rock,
walled old quarter (Kaleiçi), in-Pisidia (p258). requires several hours to explore.
a maze of narrow alleys lined Some of the best rock formations
with Ottoman-era houses. are in nearby Zelve (p286). Then
There are plenty of restaurants Day 4: Konya head to Avanos (p287), which is
and nightlife, but spare a half day Trundle across the steppe lands known for its pottery workshops.
either for the Archaeological of the Anatolian plateau on
Museum (p222), a drive an inter-city coach to Konya Day 7: Cappadocia
northwest to clamber over (pp254–5). The former capital of The landscape of southern
the mountaintop ruins of the Selçuk Turks is best known Cappadocia is quite different,
Termessos (p224), or a swim as the home of Mevlâna, so either hire a car or join a tour
from Mermerli Beach. founder of a mystic Islamic sect to the Ihlara Valley (p296). Walk
whose followers are known as its beautiful gorge and explore
Day 2: The Pamphylian Plain “Whirling Dervishes”. An after- its pretty rock-cut churches. En
The fertile plain east of Antalya, noon at Mevlâna Museum route visit the labyrinthine under-
known in antiquity as (pp256–7) is time well spent. ground city of Derinkuyu (p286).
Pamphylia, was home to several
powerful cities, whose ruins are To extend your trip… To extend your trip…
now a major draw. Join a tour or For anyone with an interest Explore this region further
hire a car to explore Perge (p224) in the prehistoric, the ‘’world’s on a mountain bike, horse,
and Aspendos (p225), the latter first city” at Çatalhöyük on foot with a guide, or even
famed for its superb Roman (p258) is a must. in a hot-air balloon.
theatre. Alternatively, head east
Hot-air balloons glide over the spectacularly eroded landscape of the Cappadocia region
Putting Turkey on the Map Kherson
Lying between Europe, Asia and the Middle East, Turkey UKRAINE
is located midway between the equator and the North
Pole. It covers an area of 814,578 sq km (314,533 sq miles).
A small area (3 per cent) called Thrace forms part of the Dzhankoi
European continent, while the larger section, Anatolia,

forms part of Asia. The city of Istanbul is situated at the
meeting point of Europe and Asia and is divided by Simferopol
the Bosphorus, the strait linking the Black Sea and the
Sea of Marmara. Countries bordering Turkey are Greece Yalta
and Bulgaria on the European side, and Georgia, Armenia,

Iran, Iraq, Syria and Nakhichevan to the east and southeast.
BULGARIA
Black Sea
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 50
Burgas
İnebolu
Edirne Dereköy
Amasra
Babaeski
Zonguldak
Kastamonu
Istanbul Şile Safranbolu
Keşan Kocaeli
Sea of (İzmit) Bolu
Gelibolu Marmara
The Sakarya
İznik
Dardanelles
Eceabat Lâpseki Yenişehir
Bursa S a k a r ya
Gökçeada Çanakkale Ankara
Eskişehir Yozgat
Bozcaada Balıkesir
Ayvalık
Bergama
(Pergamum) Kütahya Sivrihisar
Lésbos Kırşehir
(Mitilíni) Aliağa
Foça Uşak
Psará Afyon Nevşehir
İzmir Çivril Lake Lake Tuz
E irdir Aksaray
Chíos Çeşme
Dinar
Selçuk Pamukkale Niğde
Aydın
Ephesus Kuşadası Konya
Ikaría Denizli İsparta
Beyşehir
Lake
Bey ehir
Milas (Mylasa)
Náxos Lake
Bodrum Su la
Mersin
Marmaris Dalyan Antalya (İçel)
Side
Kos Datça Dalaman Fethiye Alanya
Kaş Silifke
GREECE
Rhodes Anamur
Aegean Sea
Dipkarpaz
Kárpathos
Girne
CYPRUS
Gazimağusa
Kássos
Lefkosia
Crete (Nicosia) Larnaca
Pafos
Mediterranean Sea
PUTTING TURKEY ON THE MAP 17
Melitopol
SWEDEN ESTONIA
Europe LATVIA
0 kilometres 1200
North D E N M A RK
Sea LITHUANIA 0 miles 600
Sea of Azov UNITED
REP. OF
IRELAND KINGDOM BELARUS R U S S I A N F E D E R AT I O N
NETH. POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
REPUBLIC U KRA I N E
SLOVAKIA
AUSTRIA MOLDOVA
FRANCE SWITZ. HUNGARY
Atlantic SLOV.
CROATIA ROMANIA
Ocean
BOSNIA
HERZ. SERBIA Caspian
I T A LY BULGARIA Black Sea Sea
MONTEN. KOS. GEORGIA
MAC.
SPAIN ALBANIA
Ankara ARMENIA
PORTUGAL G RE E CE TURKEY
Mediterranean CYPRUS SYRIA IRAN

ALGERIA Sea IRAQ
TUNISIA LEBANON
MOROCCO
ISRAEL
Turkey’s Coastal Borders RUSSIAN FEDERATION

Turkey is bounded by the
Black Sea to the north, the
Aegean Sea to the west, and Kutaisi
Sinop
the Mediterranean to the south.
Its coastline, including islands,
runs to 8,330 km (5,176 miles). GEORGIA
Bafra Tbilisi
Hopa
Samsun Artvin
Ordu Trabzon
Rize
Giresun Kumajri
Kars
Çorum
Amasya ARMENIA
Gümüşhane
Tokat Bayburt
Jerevan
Horasan
Erzincan Erzurum Ağrı
Sivas
Divriği Doğubeyazıt
ak
m
lir Keban
zi Kangal M u ra t
Ki Dam Bingöl
Bünyan
Elazığ
Kayseri Lake Van IRAN
Tatvan Van
Malatya
Diyarbakır Kurtalan
Ti g r i s Hakkâri
Kahramanmaraş te s
ra Yüksekova
Mardin
E uph
Nusaybin
Adana
Şanlıurfa
Gaziantep
Yumurtalık
İskenderun Akçakale
Mosul
Antakya Al-Hasakah Erbil
(Antioch)
Aleppo Ar Raqqah
Samandağ
Latakia Kirkuk
Hamah
SYRIA Deir ez-Zur
Key
Airport
Homs
Palmyra
Motorway
Al Qa'im
Major road
LEBANON Secondary road
Beirut Railway
IRAQ International boundary
Damascus
INTRODUCING TURKEY 19
A PORTRAIT OF
TURKEY
The popular image many visitors have of Turkey is one of idyllic Mediterranean
beaches lapped by an azure sea. Sun and sand, however, barely hint at the
riches this country has to offer. A bridge between Asia and Europe, Turkey is
one of the great cradles of civilization – a proud country whose cultural and
historic treasures will delight and inspire even seasoned travellers.
Contrasts between old and new vast empty steppes of the eastern
add greatly to the fascination that provinces. Pictures can only hint at the
overwhelms visitors to Turkey. Istanbul, enchantment that awaits travellers
the metropolis of this fast-changing in Cappadocia. Here, centuries of
nation, displays all the hustle and bustle underground activity have resulted
of a great world city, while only a few in entire cities carved deep into the
hours away rural people congregate porous tuff, while aeons of erosion
around communal water supplies and have carved the landscape into fantastic
collect wood to light their fires. fairy-tale mushroom formations.
The superb scenery and landscapes Many of Turkey’s national parks and
reflect a remarkable geographical wetland sanctuaries are a last refuge
diversity. Beguiling seascapes, soft for species that are almost extinct
beaches and brooding mountains along elsewhere in Europe, and for botanists
the Mediterranean coast yield to the there is an amazing display of flora.
tranquillity of Turkey’s Lake District, Add to this countless ancient ruins,
while the deep forests and cool yayla and the friendliness and hospitality
(summer pastures) of the Black Sea of the Turkish nation, and you are
region leave visitors unprepared for the guaranteed an unforgettable holiday.
Looking out over the Bosphorus from Sultanahmet

Turks gather to break their first day of fasting during Ramadan, İstiklal Cad, Istanbul
The Library at Ephesus (see pp186–7), one of the most famous Roman sites in Turkey
Historical Framework Aphrodisias (see pp192–3), and in

Anatolia has seen the rise and fall of Istanbul, where the former church of
sophisticated civilizations, including that Haghia Sophia has stood for more than
of the great Assyrians, Hittites, Phrygians 14 centuries (see pp86–9).
and Urartians. Over the centuries, this land The Seljuk Turks added their superb
was populated almost continuously. The architectural legacy, as did the Ottomans,
Hellenistic period produced some of the whose empire at one point stretched from
finest sites. Near Çanakkale, on the Aegean Hungary to Arabia. Many other peoples,
coast, lie the remains of ancient Troy among them Jews, Russians, Armenians
(see p178), and in the mountainous south- and Greeks, have played an important part
west are the ruined settlements of Lycia in Turkey’s complex history. The fruits
(see p219), whose inhabitants left behind of this diversity can be seen in superb
an assortment of unusual rock tombs. mosaics and frescoes, colourful tilework,
In the early Christian era, St Paul travelled underground cities, interesting historic
through Asia Minor, then part of and biblical sights, city
the Roman empire, to preach walls and fortresses.
the Gospel. Between the 3rd Turks are proud of the
and 7th centuries, Christianity modern nation Atatürk (see
was a central force in the p62) forged out of the ruined
development of Anatolia. Ottoman empire. “Ne Mutlu
This was the period when the Türküm Diyene” is a common
Byzantine Empire attained Turkish phrase that means
the pinnacle of its glory. “happy is the person who
The Romans and Byzantines can say he is a Turk.”
endowed Turkey with glorious
architectural masterpieces, Religion
which can still be seen at places Ottoman tilework at the Topkapı Most of Turkey’s population
like Ephesus (see pp186–7), Palace, Istanbul of 76 million people follow
A PORTRAIT OF TURKEY 21
the Sunni branch of Islam, but around

20 per cent of the population are Alevis,
and some belong to other Muslim sects.
Although the Turkish Republic is
founded on firmly secular principles,
Islam has seen a major resurgence in
the country since 2002. The devout
attend prayer times in the mosque
five times daily as laid down by the
Koran, but some Turkish Muslims do
not go to mosque at all.
A department of religious affairs exists
and carries out the function of exercising
control over family morals and to
safeguard the principles of Islam. Mosque
and state are not separated by statute,
and so the boundaries between them can A card game interrupted for a tray of simit
be unclear at times. Invariably, Atatürk’s
principles are invoked as sacred when sound melodic and soft. Turkish terms
religion appears to steer too close such as divan and ottoman have entered
to politics. The issue of Islamic the English vocabulary, while Turkish
dress is emotionally charged borrows words like tren and randevu
and a subject of debate. from English and French.
Approximately 130,000 Turks have an uninhibited
non-Muslims, including body language that is as
Greek and Armenian emphatic as speech. They are
Orthodox, are found in larger unrestrained about enjoying
cities, and members are themselves, but traditional
allowed to worship freely Byzantine mosaic, segregation of the sexes means
within their own communities. Haghia Sophia that groups of men sitting around
smoking, drinking endless cups of
Society çay (tea) and playing dominoes, cards
The Turkish language is of Central Asian or tavla (backgammon) are a common
origin but uses the Latin alphabet. It has sight. A pronounced family ethos
a natural vowel harmony that makes it cements the generations, and festivals
unite the extended
family. It is all bound
together by hospitality,
an age-old Turkish
tradition, in which
food and drink play
a central role.
Children are regarded
as national treasures,
but many families blame
the advent of television
and the Internet for
eroding the discipline
and respect for elders
The Blue Mosque (see pp92–3) in Istanbul that were once sacred.
Turkey’s gradual transition to Turkey’s first President.

a modern, Western society Atatürk set Turkey on
received a major boost in the road to becoming a
1952, when it became a modern state. His reforms,
member of the North Atlantic strictly enacted, steered
Treaty Organization (NATO). Turkey towards becoming
This brought advances in European rather than Asian,
communications, transport and his status in the eyes
and its defence policy. New of the Turkish nation has
roads, highways and projects scarcely dimmed since
to improve the tourism his death. His picture is
infrastructure changed the everywhere and his statue
face of the country. Traditional juice vendor adorns almost every village
Modernization is, more than ever, square. Few statesmen have
the hallmark of Turkish society. matched his integrity and style, and
Today, remote villages can boast of the soldier-turned-politician model
high-speed, fibre-optic telephone still appeals strongly to Turks.
connections, but may lack adequate Turkey began experimenting with
water or reliable electricity supplies. multi-party democracy in 1950, but
The Internet and mobile phones coups in 1960, 1971 and 1980 showed
have become essential accessories, that the military were the true guardians
and new housing projects are quickly of Atatürk’s legacy. In 2002 an overtly
festooned with satellite TV dishes. Islamist party, the AKP (Truth and Justice
Party), were voted into office, and won
Modern Turkey the next two general elections. Buoyed
For most Turks, the modern version of by this unprecedented mandate to rule,
their ancient country dates from the they curbed the role of the military and
founding of the Turkish Republic in moved the nation towards a presidential
1923. Its architect was Mustafa Kemal – system of government.
better known as Atatürk – a decorated In Ottoman times, the state provided
former army officer who became an all-encompassing social service to
Soldiers mounting guard at the Atatürk Mausoleum (see p248), Ankara

despite income gaps and

social inequalities.
Population Movement
In the 1960s, many Turks left
for Germany to work under a
government scheme offering
remittances in foreign currency –
an important source of export
income. Many settled there,
and 2.2 million Turks now call
Germany their home. There
are large Turkish communities
Children hard at work in school in other EU states, too.
Within Turkey, the trend has
its citizens, who willingly complied with been for rural people to leave the land
its ordered governance. Today, the role and seek a more stable life in urban
of the state is being redefined. Officials areas. Few plan to return, even if city
are elected and democracy is the goal of life is not what they hoped for. Some
society. Many state- of Turkey’s best-known films,
owned joint-stock such as Sürü (The Herd), and
companies and Eşkıya (The Bandit),
monopolies that highlight the
put Turkey on its common themes
feet have been of identity, lifestyle and
privatized. poverty. Turkey’s
Since 2002, indomitable spirit
the country and vitality are best
has encouraged seen and appreciated
inward investment, Folk dancers from the Black Sea in its proud people.
particularly from the Journeys invariably result in
oil-rich Gulf States. The Turkish stock friendships. If a Turk says they are
market (Borsa Istanbul) has flourished, your arkadaş (friend), they will be a
as has tourism. Inflation, running steadfast soulmate long after your
at 100 per cent in 2001, holiday memories have faded.
has been brought down
to single digits, although
unemployment still hovers
around 10 per cent.
The state has become less
centralised and the power
of the military has been
curbed, but with trouble
at Turkey’s borders,
particularly with Syria
and Iraq, military spending
still dwarfs that of other
government departments.
Many Turks consider
themselves Europeans, Fish sold on the quayside along Istanbul’s Golden Horn (see p103)
Landscape and Geology

Mountain ranges are Turkey’s most distinctive geographic
feature, with the Taurus and Pontic ranges enclosing the
high Anatolian Plateau. The mountains are geologically
young, and the many faulting and folding areas indicate
that mountain building is still active. In fact, 80 per cent
of the country lies in an extremely active tectonic zone,
and earthquakes are frequent. Turkey has eight main
drainage basins but the most important ones are the
Euphrates (Fırat) and the Tigris (Dicle). About one quarter
of Turkey is covered with forest, with stands of pine,
spruce and cedar, as well as deciduous trees. About
13 per cent of this area is productive; erosion, logging Saklıkent Gorge is typical of the
and fires have all depleted forested areas. Mediterranean coastal region,
where steep valleys and gorges
Ìzmit, east of bisect elongated mountain ridges.
Istanbul, was the
epicentre of the fault
lian
1999 earthquake nato
A
that measured 7.4 th
r
No
on the Richter scale
and claimed the
lives of at least
25,000 people.
Ankara
Istanbul
Ízmit Anatolian
Plate Movements ara Plate
Eurasian rm
Plate Ma
Continental plate Continental plate a of
Se
Ae n
ge ea
an an
Se r
a d ite
Key Me
Strike-slip faulting is found along
Fault line
the North Anatolian Fault. When African
rocks suddenly shift or move along Direction of plate Plate
such fault lines, the tension is movement
released as an earthquake.
New mountain
Continental plate
range
The Mediterranean
and Aegean coasts
are characterized by
mountain soils which
are clay-based and red,
brown and grey in
Continental colour. Plains around
plate Adana and Antalya
support extensive
Collisions between two continental food, crop and
plates result in crust being pushed horticultural
upwards to form mountain ranges. production.
Lake Van lies in a crater-like

depression that became
landlocked when lava flows from
the adjacent Pleistocene-era
volcano blocked the flow of
water. Today, drainage from
feeder streams fills the lake and
only evaporation sustains a
constant water level. It has a
surface area of 3,713 sq km
(1,440 sq miles) and a very high
level of sodium carbonate.
Pontic
Mountains
ea Lake
ck S Erzurum Van
Bla
Geology and
Earthquakes
Erzincan Turkey lies between
three converging
continental plates – the
Arabian Anatolian, Eurasian and Arabian
Plate plates. As the Arabian plate moves
northward into the Eurasian plate, it
pushes the Anatolian plate westward,
causing earthquakes along the North Anatolian
Fault. Further west, the African plate pushes beneath the
Adana Anatolian plate, stretching the crust under the Aegean
Antakya Sea. Tectonic activity is prevalent throughout Turkey.
East of Adıyaman,
the alluvial
a
Mesopotamian plain
Se Taurus lies between the
Mountains Tigris and Euphrates
rivers. This fertile
area produces much
of Turkey’s wheat
and cotton.
Southeast Anatolian Project (GAP)

Begun in 1974, the colossal GAP project was conceived to produce
hydroelectric power by harnessing the flow of the Tigris and
Euphrates rivers. It resulted in the world’s fourth-largest dam and
a series of smaller dams. The benefits of this project have included
turning infertile land
into arable land that
Isolated Mediterranean bays produces crops such as
were, for centuries, havens for cotton and pistachio,
pirates. The Taurus Mountains and supplying electricity
made sections of the coast to cities. Critics say the
inaccessible, allowing peoples project displaces local
like the Lycians (1st and 2nd people, contributes to
century BC) to resist Roman rule climate change and
and retain their own language damages unique
and culture. As harbours silted archaeological sites. The massive Atatürk Dam
up, such civilizations declined.
Flora and Fauna of Turkey

Turkey offers much for the naturalist, with rich marine
ecosystems, abundant birdlife and elusive larger mammals.
The rugged eastern provinces still harbour large mammals,
including bears, jackals and wolves. The country is also
floristically rich, with more than 11,000 plant species
recorded. The tulip is perhaps the most famous of these.
The great diversity of plants stems from the variety of
habitats – from arid plains to mountains and temperate
woodland – but also from Turkey’s position as a
“biological watershed” at the crossroads of Europe and The Anatolian lynx can
still be found in upland
Asia. There are huge tracts of unspoiled countryside, areas, although its habitat
some of which have been set aside as national parks. is under threat.
The Mediterranean Coast

Large areas of the Mediterranean and Aegean coast
are dominated by evergreen scrub, with Jerusalem
sage, kermes oak, broom and sun roses among the
common species. More open scrub areas contain
orchids, bulbs and annuals. Tucked
under bushes are hellebores and
Comper’s orchid, with its distinctive
trailing tassels. Arum lilies exude a
fetid odour to entice pollinators. Late
summer brings the spires of sea squill
and sea daffodil. The carob tree sheds
its pods in autumn while colchicum Common
and sternbergias unfold. sternbergia
Wetlands
Here, dragonflies hover over flowering rush,
waterlilies and irises, while water meadows fill
with buttercups, bellevalia, marsh orchids and
pale blue asyneumas. Despite international
recognition of their diversity, Turkish wetlands
are under threat from dams, drainage,
pollution and climatic change.
Surviving examples are Sultansazlığı
near Niğde (see p293), Bird Paradise
National Park near Bursa (see p163)
and the Göksu Delta (see p232).
Marsh orchid
Woodlands
Coniferous forests harbour stands of peonies,
orchids, foxgloves, fritillaries and golden peas. The
western Taurus range has an endemic subspecies
of cedar of Lebanon, and in the north are forests
of Oriental beech and fir, with rhododendron,
ferns, lilies, primulas and campanulas. In autumn
cyclamen and edible mushrooms
appear. There are giant cedar at
Dokuz Göl near Elmalı, endemic
oak species at Kasnak near Eğirdir
(see p258), and ancient mixed
woodland, now threatened by
a dam, in the Fırtına valley. Peony
Steppe
Despite their sparse appearance, the broad expanses
of the Anatolian Plateau support many flowering
plants. Highlights include stately asphodelines,
which reach 1.8 m (6 ft) in height, purple gladioli,
flax in yellow, pink or blue, and the colourful parasite
Phelypaea coccinea. On the eastern steppe are found
the lovely white, purple or blue oncocyclus iris.
Göreme National Park in Cappadocia and Nemrut
Dağı National Park (see p310) are good
places to see this flora. Deforestation
and erosion have greatly altered the
steppe, and intensive farming practices
have accelerated this process.
Iberian oncocyclus
Mountains
In spring, subalpine meadows are
carpeted with buttercups. Above
the treeline, snowdrops, winter
aconite and crocus crowd
together near the snowmelt. Snowdrop
These are followed by star-of-
Bethlehem, grape hyacinth, fritillaries, foxtail lilies,
asphodelines and bright red tulips. Scree and
rocky slopes are dotted with colourful alpine
flowers like iris, rock jasmine and aubretia.
Important mountain reserves include Kaçkar
Mountains National Park near the Black Sea coast,
Aladağlar National Park, Beyşehir Gölü National
Park near Eğirdir (see p258) and the ski centres
at Uludağ (see p163) and Erciyes (see p292).
Birds of Anatolia
Alpine chough can
More than 440 species of bird have been be seen in the
recorded in Turkey, which offers a range mountains, where
of habitats from woodlands and mountains they nest on ledges,
to wetlands and steppe. The country’s nooks and crevices.
position on the migratory flyways makes its They store food in
a paradise for bird-watchers. Autumn offers cracks, which they
the spectacle of vast flocks of migrating cover with stones.
storks and raptors over the Bosphorus.
In winter, lakes and wetlands hold
thousands of wintering wildfowl. Adult golden eagles are
resident, but the young of
northern Europe migrate
south in winter to
Chukar partridge is the mountainous
one of many game areas of the
birds in Turkey, Mediterranean.
where hunting
is a popular
pastime.
Serin live in woodlands and

vineyards. Local populations
are augmented by migratory
birds in autumn.
Hans and Kervansarays

Dotted across Anatolia are many hans (storage depots)
and kervansarays (hostelries) built in Seljuk and
Ottoman times to protect merchants travelling the
Bolu Trabzon
caravan routes that crossed Anatolia along the Roman- Bursa
Aksaray Tabriz
Manisa
Byzantine road system. From the 13th century, the Isparta
Konya Diyarbakır
Aleppo Baghdad
Seljuks built more than 100 hans to encourage trade.
Cairo
It was under the Ottomans, though, that hans and
kervansarays became a part of the state-sponsored
social welfare system and played a key role in Locator Map
expanding Ottoman territory and influence. Several Major trade routes
of these facilities can be visited today, and some
have been turned into hotels or restaurants.
Portal of the
storage hall
A small mosque raised

on arches stands in the
centre of the courtyard.
Camel caravans laden with silks

and spices from China made their
way through Anatolia to the great
commercial centre of Bursa (see
pp166–71). Slaves from the Black Sea
hinterland were another important
trading commodity.
A thick curtain wall

surrounded the
kervansaray.
The central gate

provided the
only entry to the
fortified structure.
The central courtyard,

surrounded by arcades,
provided shelter from the
hot sun and contained
Corner turret
apartments and a hamam
(Turkish bath) to revive for defence
weary travellers.
The stone bridge

over the Köprü River
near Antalya was built
by the Seljuks near
the site of a Roman
bridge. The structure
has been restored.
Barrel-vaulted A kervansaray at Mylasa, a bustling commercial

ceiling centre in western Anatolia, is shown in this
19th-century oil painting by the English artist
Richard Dadd.
The octagonal lantern tower

let light into the interior.
The Sultanhanı
The Sultanhanı, near the central
Anatolian city of Aksaray (see
pp296–7), is one of the best-
preserved Seljuk kervansarays.
Built between 1226 and 1229 for Sultan
Alaeddin Keykubad (see p254), the
complex consisted of a courtyard surrounded
by various amenities – stables, mosque,
Turkish bath and accommodation – for the
use of travellers, and a covered hall in which
trade goods could be safely stored.
Five-aisled
storage hall
The Cinci Hanı

(see p272) was an
important fixture
of the busy
trading centre of
Safranbolu,
which lay on the
key Black Sea
caravan route.
The Kızlarağası Hanı

in ìzmir (see p182) is an
Ottoman han dating from
1744. Hans had the same
amenities found at a
kervansaray, together
Accommodation
for travellers was with storerooms, offices
provided in two and rows of cell-like
tiers of rooms. workshops, all grouped
around a central
courtyard. The restored
Kızlarağası Hanı houses
a variety of cafés, shops
and craft workshops.
Customs and Traditions

Turkish customs have been passed down from generation
to generation and are integrated into contemporary
life. Climate, geography and ethnic background play
a significant role, but many customs have their origins in
Islam and have changed little over the years. An enduring
faith is attached to the blue bead, or mavi boncuk,
an amulet that protects the wearer from the evil eye.
It may be seen dangling wherever good luck is needed.
Religious and social mores dictate separate lives
for many men and women, so customs bring them
together for celebrations such as weddings, births and In Karagöz shadow puppet
theatre, a cast of stock characters
rites of passage. Family life is pivotal to Turkish culture, enact satiric themes. The puppets
and communities are strengthened by the social are three-dimensional cut-outs
and economic ties of the extended family. made from camel skin.
Circumcision Gold coins

For the celebration of his attached to ribbons
sünnet, or circumcision
ritual, a boy is dressed
in the satin uniform of a Offerings pinned
sergeant major, and his to a pillow symbolize
parents throw as lavish the gifts the young
a celebration as they can man will take
afford. Relatives and friends into manhood.
proffer money as gifts
for the young man, and In line with Islamic tradition,
Turkish boys are circumcised
the whole event is often
between the ages of seven and
photographed for the
ten. A lavish uniform is worn for
family album. this special occasion.
Village Weddings Headscarves are worn

Celebrations such as weddings may by many rural women. Village square
last for several days and involve a (meydan)
number of individual rituals. In the
rural areas, families often approve and
sanction wedding partners. The bride
always has a çeyiz (trousseau)
comprising lovely, handcrafted
articles she and her mother have
made for the new home.
Making flatbread for the marriage

feast is the responsibility of the women
of the family. The tradition of making Wedding festivities in the picturesque village of Midyat,
katmer or gözleme (crepes) is being near the Syrian border, bring a large and appreciative
revived in some parts of Turkey. crowd out to watch dancers performing.
Handicrafts
Craft skills were handed down from the
Ottoman guild system, and Turkey has
many skilled craftspeople. One example
is oya, or needle lace, which is noted for
its intricate floral designs crocheted in
silk. These were originally crafted for a
bride’s trousseau. As late as the 1920s,
wives crocheted them as part of their
husband’s headdress. Quilt-making,
on the other hand, was traditionally Copper and brass
passed down from the father. ware, worked by hand,
Weaving is a rural tradition and
done mainly by women. Designs is an integral part of
of carpets and kilims (see pp366–7) the Turkish household.
are handed down from one
generation to the next.
Woodworking skills were

handed down from the
Ottomans. Unique wooden
Local markets are the best Hand-printed textiles, known as walking sticks are made in
places to look for traditional yazma, are a proud and venerable Devrek, near the Black Sea.
crafts. Shown here are craft tradition in central Anatolian These wooden bowls were
handmade linens in Kalkan. towns such as Tokat. produced near Adana.
Traditional Dress Printed skirt Decorative

Traditionally, Turkish women wove Full robe headdress
their clothing according to individual
designs, and dyed them using plant
extracts. Today, each region has its
own styles of şalvar (trousers worn
by women) and head coverings
such as başörtüsü (scarves).
A group of folk dancers wears

the traditional costume of the
Van region. Folk dancing is
hugely popular, with regional
costumes as much a part of the
show as music and laughter.
National Service
All men over the age of 20 must serve compulsory
military service of varying duration, and Turkish society
still considers this to be a fundamental rite of passage to
manhood. For rural youths, this may be their first time
away from home, and askerlik (military service) fulfils a
social role as a bridge to adulthood. The departing
conscript may be required to visit friends and relatives
to ask forgiveness for any wrongdoings and be presented
with gifts and money before he reports for duty.
Young soldiers of the Turkish Army on duty

Islamic Art in Turkey Ceramic tile

panels contain
messages taken
In Islamic art, the highest place is held by from the Koran,
calligraphy, or the art of beautiful writing. This is executed in Arabic
Calligraphic or Kufic script.
because a calligrapher’s prime task is writing the inscription in
Holy Koran, believed by Muslims to be the word of embossed metal
God. In the purest forms of Islam, the use of animal
forms in works of art is regarded as detracting from
pious thoughts. Thus, artists and craftsmen turned
their talents to designs featuring geometric motifs
and intricate foliage designs known as arabesques.
As well as calligraphy, these highly disciplined
forms included miniature paintings, jewellery,
metal, tiles and ceramics, stone-carving and
textiles. Under the Ottomans, the finest creations
came from the Nakkaşhane, or sultan’s design
studio. Here, an apprentice system that lasted
up to 10 years maintained the imperial traditions
of excellence and innovation.
The sultan’s tuğra was his

Floral personal monogram, used
decorations in place of his signature.
It would be drawn by a
calligrapher or engraved
on a wooden block as
a stamp. This example
shows the tuğra of
Abdül Hamit I
(1774–89).
Ornamental Tile panel featuring

loops plant motifs
Koranic texts
provided templates
for woodcarvers,
metalworkers,
weavers and ceramic
painters. Although
highly decorative,
Islamic art is filled
with meaning: the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa
tulip (lãle), a much- Mosque In Kadırga, Istanbul
used motif, is an Designed by Sinan (1577–8) for a
anagram for Allah. distinguished grand vizier, the
Floral tile motif prayer hall features a beautiful qibla
(wall of the mosque at right angles
to the direction of Mecca). The
calligraphic decoration includes
exquisite tilework and stone-carving.
Inscription in metal
The minaret of the Green Mosque (Yeşil

Camii) in İznik (see p164) features complex
Tilework on
patterns of coloured tiles. The mosque,
squinches
which was completed in 1378, takes its
supporting name from the richly decorated minaret.
the dome
The Art of the

Ottoman Miniature
Ottoman miniature painting
was primarily a courtly art
form, which reached a peak
of development in the late
16th century during the rule
of Süleyman the Magnificent
(see p59). Miniature painting
was influenced by Persian art,
with many of the finest Persian
minaturists being brought to
work at the court workshops
of Topkapı Palace (see pp72–5).
As well as illustrations for
manuscripts of Koranic texts
and Persian epics – Persian
was the language of the
Ottoman court – a unique
style was developed to record
the history of the dynasty.
This included battle scenes,
This tile panel is set palace rituals, major festivals
into the stone wall. and topographical scenes.
By the 17th century, miniature
painters had mastered three-
The conical roof of the dimensional representation,
minbar (see p36) features
polychrome tiling.
while the 18th century
heralded a more naturalistic
style and a broadening of
Stained-glass windows subjects to include landscapes,
still lifes and portraits. Although
there were a number of
celebrated miniature artists,
these exquisite works were,
for the most part, neither
signed nor dated.
An Arabic inscription winds

around a gravestone in the
grounds of the Alanya
Museum (see p230).
A tile panel over the entrance

to the Mausoleum of Selim II,
in the precincts of Haghia Sophia Early 17th-century miniature showing
in Istanbul, shows a masterful Hasan, grandson of Mohammed,
integration of calligraphy and on his deathbed
organic motifs.
Ottoman Architecture
From Albania to Tripoli, and from Baghdad to Bosnia, the
Ottomans left superb examples of their architectural skills.
Nowhere is this more apparent than in Istanbul, where
the sultans built beautiful mosques, palaces and külliyes
(Islamic charitable institutions).
Ottoman architecture is marked by a strict hierarchy of
forms, scales and materials, reflecting the rank of a building’s
patron. Mosques commissioned by members of the Ottoman
family, for example, were the only ones entitled to two or Ornamental fountains
more minarets. Another distinguishing feature is the influence (çeşme) were built in busy
central squares or markets.
of Byzantine architecture. Many architects, among them This example is in the bazaar
Mimar Sinan (see p105), were of Greek or Armenian origin. in Kayseri (see pp294–5).
The Early Ottoman Mosque

The earliest form of the Ottoman mosque consisted
of a single large prayer hall covered by a hemispheric Rubble-filled A pier supports
dome, with a covered porch and minaret outside. masonry wall the central dome.
The Junior Hacı Özbek Mosque (1333) in İznik is The pillared
considered the earliest example of this form. It was portico is covered
modified by adding bays (often covered by small by seven domes.
domes) around the central dome, and by the
addition of a covered portico and arcaded courtyard.
A ground plan
of the Selimiye
Mosque shows
the domed bays
surrounding the
central hall.
The Selimiye Mosque, in Konya

(see pp254–5), was started in 1558 by Sultan
Selim II when he was governor of Konya.
It was finished in 1587. Clearly visible is
the bulk of the central prayer hall, which
is topped by a hemispheric dome. The
mosque adjoins the Mevlâna Museum.
The Later Ottoman Mosque

The central dome Four semi-domes, each
The form of the Ottoman mosque is 19 m (62 ft) in resting on three arches,
underwent a dramatic evolution diameter. surround the central dome.
in the years following the conquest
of Constantinople. The Ottomans Small corner
Minaret
frequently converted Orthodox dome
churches, notably Haghia Sophia
(see pp86–9), into mosques. Under
the influence of such models,
architects began to create higher,
single-domed mosques, and to
greatly open up the interior space.
The Şehzade Mosque (also called
the Prince’s Mosque) in Istanbul
was the first imperial mosque built
by the architect Mimar Sinan
(see p105). It was commissioned in
1543 by Süleyman the Magnificent.
Fountains (Şadırvan) Decorative cupola

Based on the Koranic principle
that water is the source of life,
the provision of public water Calligraphic
panels feature
supplies was a civic duty. Every verses from
town had its çeşme (public the Koran.
fountain), and külliyes offered
sebil (free distribution of water).
The şadırvan was placed in
a mosque courtyard for the Basin
performance of ritual ablutions.
The Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III
is one of the most famous sights of
Istanbul. Built in 1728, the square
structure has basins on all sides.
The Konak Pitched

Like many other Ottoman buildings, the konak Wooden roof
(mansion house) consisted of a wooden upper floor
structure built on a foundation of stone and
brick to withstand the cold Anatolian winter.
The ground floor contained granaries, stables
and storage areas. The kitchens and public
rooms were on the first floor, with the private
quarters on the top floor.
Living areas had

sofas (upholstered
benches) along the Stone
walls. The nook
foundation
shown here is in a
konak that has A rural konak in northern Turkey shows the
been turned into a typical three-storey form. Some had separate
hotel in Safranbolu entrances for the harem (women’s quarters)
(see pp272–3). and selamlık (men’s quarters).
Yalı
Building Types
The yalı (waterfront villa) is found along the Bosphorus.
Most yalıs were built during the 18th and 19th centuries as
Bedesten Covered stone market
grand summer residences for wealthy citizens of Ottoman
Istanbul. Sited to make maximum use of the waterside Çeşme Public water fountain
location, they also incorporated boathouses or moorings.
Daruşşifa Hospital
Wood was
the main Hamam Bathhouse (see p81)
building
material. İmaret Soup kitchen
Külliye Educational/charitable
complex surrounding a major
Decorative mosque (see pp36–7)
pilasters Medrese Theological college
(see pp36–7)
The water-
Mescit Small prayer hall
side location
provided easy Tekke Dervish lodge
access and
maximum Tımarhane Lunatic asylum
visibility.
Yalıs were built in a variety of forms and Türbe Tomb
architectural styles, from simple wooden
structures to this lavish Russian-style mansion.
Exploring Mosques
Five times a day throughout Istanbul a chant is
broadcast over loudspeakers set high in the city’s
minarets to call the faithful to prayer. Over 99 per cent
of the population is Muslim, though the Turkish state
is officially secular. Most belong to the Sunni branch
of Islam, but there is also a small population of Shiites.
Both follow the teachings of the Koran, the sacred book
of Islam, and the Prophet Mohammed (c.570–632), Overview of the impressive Süleymaniye
but Shiites accept, in addition, the authority of a line Mosque complex
of 12 imams directly descended from Mohammed.
Islamic mystics are known as Sufis (see p259). Turkish baths
(hamam)
The ablutions fountain Courtyard
(şadırvan) was used by (avlu)
worshippers for ritual washing.
The han or Prayer hall
kervansaray (cami)
(see pp28–9)
provided
accommo-
dation for
travellers.
A mausoleum (türbe)
was built for the founder
The kitchen of the mosque.
(imaret) catered
for mosque Plan of a typical
officials,
students,
Mosque Complex
the sick and (Külliye)
the poor. The külliye was a charitable
foundation as well as a place of
worship. This example forms part of the
Hospital Süleymaniye Mosque (see pp104–5)
(darüşşifa)
Colleges (medreses) for general in Istanbul. A typical külliye had a
and theological education were school, hospital, Islamic study halls,
built adjacent to the mosque. kervansaray (lodgings for travellers),
Most now serve other uses. public soup kitchen and bathhouse.
Inside a Mosque
The prayer hall of a great mosque can offer visitors
a soaring sense of space. Islam forbids images
of living things (human or animal) inside a
mosque, so there are never any statues or
figurative paintings, but the geometric and
abstract architectural details of the interior can
be exquisite. Men and women pray separately.
Women often use a screened-off area or a balcony.
The mihrab, a niche The minbar is a lofty

in the wall, marks the pulpit to the right of
The müezzin mahfili is a platform found in direction of Mecca. the mihrab. This is used
large mosques. The muezzin (mosque official) The prayer hall is laid by the imam when
stands on this when chanting responses to out so that most people he delivers the Friday
the prayers of the imam (head of the mosque). can see the mihrab. sermon (khutba).
Muslim Beliefs and Practices Prayer Times

Muslims believe in God (Allah), and the Koran shares
many prophets and stories with the Bible. However, The five daily prayer times are
whereas for Christians Jesus is the son of God, calculated according to the times
of sunrise and sunset, and thus
Muslims hold that he was just one in a line of
change throughout the year.
prophets – the last being Mohammed, who
Exact times are posted on boards
brought the final revelation of God’s truth to
outside large mosques. Those
mankind. Muslims believe that Allah communi- given here are a guide.
cated the sacred texts of the Koran to
Mohammed through the archangel Gabriel. Prayer Summer Winter
Muslims have five basic duties. The first of these Sabah 5am 7am
is the profession of faith: “There is no God but Öğle 1pm 1pm
Allah, and Mohammed is his Prophet”. Muslims are İkindi 6pm 4pm
also enjoined to pray five times a day, give alms to Akşam 8pm 6pm
the poor and fast during the month of Ramazan Yatsi 9:30pm 8pm
(see p40). Once during their lifetime, if they can
afford it, they should make the pilgrimage (haj) to
Mecca (in Saudi Arabia), the site of the Kaaba,
a sacred shrine built by Abraham, and
also the birthplace of the Prophet.
The call to prayer used to be
given by the muezzin from
the balcony of the minaret.
Nowadays loudspeakers
broadcast the call. Only
imperial mosques have
more than one minaret.
Ritual ablutions
must be under-
taken before prayer. When praying, Muslims face
Worshippers wash the Kaaba in Mecca, even if
their head, hands they are not in a mosque,
and feet either at where the mihrab indicates the
the fountain in the right direction. Kneeling and
courtyard or at taps lowering the head to the
set in a wall of ground are gestures of humility
the mosque. and respect for Allah.
Visiting a Mosque
Visitors are welcome at any mosque in Turkey,
but non-Muslims should avoid visiting at prayer
times, especially the main weekly congregation
and sermon on Fridays. Take off your shoes
before entering the prayer hall. Shoulders
and knees should be
covered. In remote
areas women should
cover their head with
a scarf, but main
tourist mosques
insist less on this.
Do not eat, take
photographs with
a flash or stand very
The kürsü, seen in close to worshippers.
The loge (hünkar mahfili) some mosques, is A contribution to
provided the sultan with a throne used by a donation box or
a screened-off balcony the imam while mosque official Board outside a mosque giving
where he could pray, safe he reads extracts is courteous. times of prayers
from would-be assassins. from the Koran.
TURKEY THROUGH THE YEAR

Turkey’s national and regional holidays diverse origins in terms of music, folklore,
fall into three categories: religious feasts sport and the performing arts. Urban
celebrated throughout the Islamic world, centres like İzmir and Istanbul host well-
festivities associated with events or people publicized festivals, but smaller towns
in Turkish history, and traditional festivals, also stage lively celebrations. Luna park
usually with a seasonal theme. The joyful (fun fairs) are popular. The passage
spirit is tangible on public holidays and of the seasons is important, as many
religious feast days, when old and young, venues are outdoors. In the eastern
rich and poor unite and extended families provinces, harsh winters restrict the
gather. Regional events celebrate Turkey’s types of events that can be staged.
Spring
This is the best season for
visiting Turkey. Temperatures are
comfortable and the days longer
and warmer. Many places are
spruced up after winter and
restaurants arrange their tables
outdoors. This is also the time to
see Turkey’s wild flower displays.
Most tourist attractions, such
as the historic sights, are far
less crowded and thus more
peaceful at this time of year.
March
International Film Festival Turkish children paying their respects to the memory of Atatürk
(late Mar–mid-Apr), Istanbul.
Various cinemas in the city National Sovereignty and Marmaris International
screen a selection of Turkish Children’s Day (23 Apr). Yachting Festival (2nd week in
and foreign films. Anniversary of the first May), at Marmaris (see pp204–5).
Grand National Assembly Mainly a convention for yacht
April that convened in Ankara owners, brokers and buyers,
Tulip Festival (Apr–May), in 1920. Children this event fills the marina
Emirgan, Istanbul. This two- from all around with all kinds of vessels
week-long festival sees over Turkey commemorate and is sure to appeal
15 million bulbs planted across the life of the to anyone interested
the city. The best places to revered Atatürk. in yachting.
admire the blooms include ANZAC Day (24–25 National
Emirgan Park and Gülhane Park. Apr), Çanakkale and Youth and
Gallipoli Peninsula Sports Day (19 May).
(see pp172–3). Celebrated all over
Representatives the country, this event
from Australia, New marks Atatürk’s
Zealand and Turkey birthdate in
commemorate the Memorial at 1881 and the
courage in battle Gallipoli anniversary
displayed by both of his arrival in the
sides in World War I. town of Samsun (see p269)
in 1919 to plan the War of
May Independence.
Yunus Emre Culture and Art Conquest of Istanbul (29 May),
Week (6–10 May), Eskişehir Istanbul. The anniversary
(see p261). A weeklong of Constantinople’s capture
commemoration of the life by Sultan Mehmet the
and devotional love poetry Conqueror in 1453.
Tulips in Emirgan Park, part of the Tulip of the 13th-century mystic, Cirit Games (May–Sep;
Festival in spring Yunus Emre. see September p40).
TURKEY THROUGH THE YEAR 39
International Opera and

Ballet Festival (Jun–mid-Sep),
Aspendos (see p225). The
Roman amphitheatre is
the venue for thrilling, open-air
performances of opera, ballet
and orchestral music. Visitors can
also enjoy a picnic at the site
before performances.
July
Navy Day (1 Jul). This holiday has
some symbolism for Turks as it
commemorates the anniversary
of the end of the capitulations, or
trade concessions, granted by
the Ottoman sultans to a number
Turkey’s beaches, popular with locals and visitors in summer of European powers from the
mid-16th century onwards.
Istanbul Music Festival (mid- International Hittite Festival
Summer Jun–mid-Jul), venues around the (first week Jul), Çorum (see pp298–9).
Turks take their holidays city. A prestigious event for Students of Hittite art and culture
seriously, and summer sees opera, theatre and ballet perfor- and enthusiasts from around
coastal areas of the Aegean mances. Both Turkish and the globe gather for this annual
and Mediterranean, in particular, Western classical event to attend
crowded with university music are lectures, debates
students and families on the featured and the and related outings.
move. Those city dwellers lucky highlight is a Istanbul Jazz
enough to own a summer one-night Festival (first two
house usually move to the performance of weeks Jul), Istanbul.
coast to escape the oppressive Mozart’s An eclectic pro-
heat when the school holidays Abduction from gramme of jazz,
begin in June. the Seraglio, world music, soul
Turkey’s beaches offer which is authenti- and R&B perform-
opportunities for all kinds of cally staged at the Grease-wrestling ances takes place at
activities, and resorts such as Topkapı Palace. tournament venues across the city.
Bodrum and Marmaris are Kırkpınar Festival and
renowned for their active Grease Wrestling Championship August
nightlife. Be on the lookout (last week Jun), Edirne (see pp158– Troy Festival (10–15 Aug),
for impromptu festivals 9). A popular event with men, in Çanakkale (see p178). Dance,
involving grease-wrestling which the contenders, in kıspet theatre and art events that attract
or folk dancing, for example. (leather breeches) and smeared foreign performers.
Although local tourist offices with olive oil, compete for the Hacı Bektaş Commemorative
have information on events in coveted honour in this Ceremony (mid-Aug), Avanos (see
their area, these may not be traditional national sport. p287). Annual ceremony held in
well publicized and full details remembrance of Hacı Bektaş Veli,
may be unavailable until just the mystic and philosopher who
prior to the event. founded an Islamic sect based
on the principles of unity and
June human tolerance.
Kaş-Lycia Culture and Art International İzmir Festival (last
Festival (first week Jun), Kaş. week Aug–early Sep), İzmir
Three days of contemporary dance (see pp182–3). An excellent
and theatre held at various venues programme for connoisseurs
in the town. There is also an of music, ballet and theatre.
international swimming race to Some performances also take
the nearby Greek island of Meis. place at Çeşme and Ephesus.
Kafkasör Culture and Arts Victory Day (30 Aug). This day,
Festival (second week Jun), known as Zafer Bayramı, is cele-
Artvin (see p279). A festival in brated throughout Turkey. It
an alpine meadow that offers celebrates the victory of the Turkish
country handicrafts, folk Republican army over the Greeks
dancing and singing, as well International Opera and Ballet Festival at the battle of Dumlupınar in 1922
as bull wrestling. poster, Aspendos during the War of Independence.
number of cinemas and

cultural venues across the city.
International Bodrum Cup
Regatta (third week of Oct),
Bodrum (see pp202–3). This
regatta is open to several
classes of wooden yachts only.
Both Turkish and foreign
yachtsmen compete.
Race Week (last week Oct to
first week Nov), Marmaris (see
pp204–5). Inland and offshore
races held in three divisions
under authority of the Turkish
Sailing Federation. There is also
a fancy-dress night, and cocktail
and dinner parties.
Republic Day (29 Oct).
This important national
Racing yachts competing in Marmaris Race Week holiday commemorates the
proclamation of the Turkish
It is a rough-and-tumble cross Republic in 1923.
Autumn between polo and javelin-
Autumn is an ideal time throwing in which horse November
for visiting Turkey. The rural and rider enjoy Atatürk Commemoration Day
regions have grape or wine equal prestige. (10 Nov). Atatürk’s death in
festivals and many villages The games 1938 is recalled each year with
celebrate their successful take place a poignant one-minute silence.
harvests of wheat, apricots, every Sunday. This show of respect is observed
cotton or other Tango Festival throughout the country at
crops. In coastal (second week in 9:05am, the exact moment the
regions, the sea is Sep), Marmaris revered leader passed away in
still warm and (see pp204–5). A Istanbul’s Dolmabahçe Palace.
watersports can popular six-day event Everything in the country grinds
continue well into in which couples follow to a halt – people, and even the
October. Along the Watermelon cart, the lead of professional traffic stops.
south coast, warm Diyarbakır dance couples.
weather can last Watermelon Festival Muslim Holidays
until quite late in November. (16–23 Sep), Diyarbakır (see
pp314–15). One of only a few The dates of the Muslim
September festivals in eastern Turkey, this calendar and its holy days
Cirit Games (May–Sep), Erzurum one focuses on the gigantic are governed by the phases
(see pp322–3). Cirit originated watermelons grown by the of the moon and therefore
change from year to year.
with nomads from Central Asia. local farmers.
In the holy month of
Cappadocia Grape Harvest
Ramadan, Muslims do not
Festival (mid-Sep), Ürgüp (see eat or drink between dawn
p287). Celebration of local food and dusk. Some restaurants
and wine in an area that has are closed during the day
been called the birthplace and tourists should be
of viticulture. discreet when eating in
Istanbul Biennial (mid-Sep– public. Straight after this
Nov), Istanbul (see pp64–149). follows the three-day Şeker
This major international arts event Bayramı (Sugar Festival),
is held on odd years at various when sweetmeats are
locations across the city. The next prepared. Two months and
Biennial will be held in 2017. 10 days later, a four-day
celebration, Kurban
October Bayramı (Feast of the
Golden Orange Film Festival Sacrifice), commemorates
the Koranic version of
(second week Oct), Antalya (see
Abraham’s sacrifice. This is
pp222–3). Turkey’s premier
the main annual public
film festival, established in the holiday in Turkey, and hotels,
Horse and rider at the Cirit Games 1960s, screens both domestic trains and roads are packed.
in Erzurum and international films at a
mystic who founded the

Mevlevi order. This is the only
time that the whirling dervishes
are in residence in their home
city and offers one of the
best performances anywhere
in Turkey.
January
New Year’s Day (1 Jan).
A national holiday.
Camel Wrestling (mid-Jan),
Selçuk (see p184). Premier
championship event held in
Whirling Dervishes at the Mevlevi Monastery in Istanbul the ruined Roman theatre at
Ephesus (see pp186–7).
Christmas trees are decorated.
Winter Visitors are always welcome to February
When the street vendors begin join in these celebrations, but Camel Wrestling (through Feb),
roasting chestnuts in Ankara and advance booking is advisable Aydın, İzmir and other Aegean
Istanbul, it is a sign that winter is for popular places. Some towns. Impromptu camel
near. Both cities can be damp establishments that close for wrestling bouts (deve güreşi)
and cold. Ankara frequently has the winter open again just for that coincide with the mating
temperatures below freezing the New Year’s Eve celebrations. season (Dec–Feb), after
and gets a lot of snow. This is which male camels become
when coastal regions have their December docile again.
rainy season. Winter is a good St Nicholas Symposium and
time for visitors to explore Festival (first week Dec), Demre
Turkey’s museums, as major (see p220). Visitors who have an
sights are open and uncrowded. interest in the legend of Santa
The ski centres (see p372) at Claus will not want to miss
Palandöken (see p323) and this symposium and the
Uludağ (see p163) have their discussions and ceremonies
busiest season from December that accompany it. A host of
to April, and offer activities both related debates is organized,
on and off the slopes. and pilgrimages are made to
Turks do not celebrate the 4th-century church of
Christmas, but most hotel St Nicholas in Demre, located
chains offer a special menu near Antalya, and to the A champion camel, adorned with tassels
on the day. New Year’s Day, birthplace of Nicholas in and rugs
however, is an official holiday Patara, near Kaş.
throughout Turkey. Mevlâna Festival (10–17 Dec),
National Holidays
It is celebrated heartily in Konya (see pp254–5).
restaurants and at home, and A festival that commemorates New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
a lavish meal is served. Often Celaleddin Rumi (see p259), the National Sovereignty and
Children’s Day Ulusal
Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı
(23 Apr)
Labour and Solidarity Day
Emek ve Dayanışma Günü
(1 May)
National Youth and Sports
Day Gençlik ve Spor Günü
(19 May)
Navy Day Denizcilik Günü
(1 Jul)
Victory Day Zafer Bayramı
(30 Aug)
Republic Day Cumhuriyet
Bayramı (29 Oct)
Atatürk Commemoration
Day (10 Nov)
New Year’s celebrations in Istanbul
The Climate of Turkey ISTANBUL

Turkey’s mountainous terrain and maritime influence have
29
created diverse climatic regions. The Aegean and Mediterranean °C
coasts enjoy mean temperatures of 29°C (84°F) in July and 9°C
17 20 20
(48°F) in January. Rain falls mainly in winter; Antalya receives an 14
9
annual average of 991 mm (39 in). Along the Black Sea, rainfall is 9
4
heavier, averaging 2,438 mm (96 in) a year. The rugged northeast
6 10 5 2
has warm summers, but severe winters, with temperatures
hrs hrs hrs hrs
averaging −9°C (16°F). Precipitation is more evenly spread 53 21 68 83
throughout the year, and snow lasts 120 days. The central mm mm mm mm
plateau has hot, dry summers averaging 23°C (73°F), and cold, month Apr Jul Oct Jan
moist winters, when temperatures average below 0°C (32°F).
İnebolu
Edirne
Amasra
Kastamonu
Istanbul
Tekirdağ
Kocaeli
(İzmit)
İznik
Bursa
Çanakkale
Ankara
Eskişehir Yozgat
Balıkesir
Kütahya
Uşak
İzmir
Aksaray
Aydın Dinar
Denizli Konya
Bodrum Antalya
Dalyan Mersin (İcel)
Side
Anamur
THRACE AND THE THE AEGEAN ANKARA AND

SEA OF MARMARA WESTERN ANATOLIA
33 30
29
°C °C °C
24 20
21 23 17
16
20 20
17 15
14 12 7
9 9 11 6 4
4 6
−3
6 10 5 2 7 12 7 4 6 11 7 3
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
53 21 68 83 48 2 45 119 49 15 30 42
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
CAPPADOCIA AND THE BLACK SEA

CENTRAL ANATOLIA
28 26
°C °C 20
18 19
16 15
13
13
11
7 8
5 4
4
−4
13 3 6 3 4 5 4 2
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
52 9 31 42 97 147 289 219
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Hopa
Samsun
Ordu Trabzon
Amasya
Gümüshane
Erzurum
Sivas Erzincan
Elaziğ
Van
Malatya
Diyarbakır
Gaziantep
Antakya
EASTERN ANATOLIA
38
°C
25
20 22
10
MEDITERRANEAN 7 7
TURKEY −2
31
°C
Average monthly 7 12 7 4
27
24 maximum hrs hrs hrs hrs
22
15
temperature 69 1 35 68
17 mm mm mm mm
13
6 Average monthly month Apr Jul Oct Jan
minimum
7 10 7 6 temperature
hrs hrs hrs hrs
36 8 39 110
Average daily hours
mm mm mm mm
of sunshine
0 kilometres 100
month Apr Jul Oct Jan Average monthly
rainfall 0 miles 50
INTRODUCING TURKEY 45
THE HISTORY OF
TURKEY
The history of Turkey is as ancient as that of humankind. Known as Anatolia and
previously as Asia Minor, this land has witnessed the rise and fall of many great and
advanced civilizations, from the early Hittites to the Persians, Lydians, Greeks, Romans,
Byzantines and Ottomans. A singular heritage of splendid art and architecture bears
the mark of an often tumultuous past.
Long before great empires such as the The Fertile Crescent

Persian, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman The earliest settlers were the hunter-gatherer
began to exploit the strategic position communities of Mesopotamia, living in
of Asia Minor, important ancient the well-watered stretch of land between the
civilizations flourished in the fertile river Tigris and Euphrates rivers in what is now
valleys, on the windswept, arid interior northern Syria and Iraq. One of the world’s
plains and along the southern coastline most remarkable archaeological sites,
of Anatolia. The early communities were Göbekli Tepe (see p312), challenged the
replaced by successive waves of migration theory that only settled farming communities
that saw the rise and fall of new cultures, were capable of monumental works of art.
each of which left reminders of its By 8,000 BC the hunter-gatherers had
dominance and glory and contributed to learned to cultivate crops of wheat, barley
the astoundingly varied cultural tapestry and legumes and thus lead more settled
that forms the basis of today’s proud, lives. They also kept domestic animals and
modern republic. used dogs to protect and herd their livestock.
These early farmers were the first to venture
Prehistoric Turkey beyond the boundaries of the Fertile
The Old Stone Age tools, crude Crescent, establishing communities along
artifacts, animal bones and food fossils the Mediterranean and Red Sea, as well as
found near Burdur, north of Antalya around the Persian Gulf. Here, the archae-
(see pp222–3), prove that people have ological remains of Neolithic villages date
lived in Turkey since at least 20,000 BC. back to 8000 BC, and by 7000 BC countless
The earliest inhabitants were nomadic thriving settlements had sprung up.
hunter-gatherers who migrated in It was during this period that people
response to changing weather patterns discovered how to smelt metal and work with
and seasons. They followed the wild it. They developed methods of extracting and
animal herds they depended upon casting various useful weapons and ornamen-
for their sustenance, clothing, tools tal items. The earliest items cast from copper
and weapons. were made in Anatolia around 5000 BC.
20,000 BC Old Stone 10,000 BC End of Old Stone Age in

Age settlement north Anatolia, the first temple enclosures
of Antalya Hand axe are built at Göbekli Tepe
20,000 BC 18,000 BC 16,000 BC 14,000 BC 12,000 BC 10,000 BC 8000 BC
17,000 BC Paleolithic 9000 BC Emergence

hunter-gatherers fashion of modern humans
Flint flint spear tips in Anatolia
spear
tips
Constantine IX Monomachus, ruler of the Byzantine Empire from 1042 to 1055

The First Town and people were raising crops and

Together with Hacılar, Çatalhöyük (see p258) animals for a living. The increase in
near Konya was possibly the world’s first agricultural activity created a growing
town. It had a population of around 5,000 need for tools and implements.
people and is thought to have been the Methods for ore extraction and
largest settlement at the time. Most of its smelting were refined and passed
inhabitants were farmers, but there was on from father to son. Copper
also brisk trade in obsidian (volcanic implements were widely used.
glass), brought into workshops from Focal points of this period were Hacılar
nearby volcanoes and used to fashion and Canhasan, both of which also
sharp cutting tools. manufactured fine pottery items,
Archaeologists have been able using advanced techniques.
to determine with certainty that Their attractive clay vessels were
Çatalhöyük’s houses were sturdy decorated with distinctive
Flint dagger
structures built of brick and with bone
multicoloured backgrounds.
timber. The architectural designs also handle
reflect the demands of an advanced The Bronze Age
culture that valued comfort. They typically Between 3000–1200 BC, the Anatolian
feature separate living quarters and metalworkers began to experiment
cooking areas, as well as several sheds and with various techniques and developed
a number of storerooms. new skills. Their workshops produced a
Cattle seem to have played a rather surplus of goods and a brisk trade
important part in this ancient culture of began to flourish. Among these items
Anatolia. This is evident from the fact that were gold jewellery, ornaments,
many of the rooms that were excavated at belts, drinking vessels and statuettes
Çatalhöyük were decorated with elaborate of the mother goddess.
wall paintings depicting cows, as well as
clay heads with real horns moulded in relief
onto the walls. Since Çatalhöyük’s people
had animistic beliefs, it has been suggested
that the murals and bull’s-head emblems
could point to the practice of ritual or cult
activities. Similarly, small terracotta figurines
of a voluptuous female deity (the mother
goddess) probably played a part in fertility
rites, offerings or other religious ceremonies.
The Copper Age

By the Copper Age (from about 5500 to
3000 BC), farming had become a way of life Artist’s impression of Çatalhöyük, possibly the world’s first town
5600 BC Fertility
8000 BC Start of
Statuette of mother figurines made of
the Neolithic
goddess, Çatalhöyük terracotta at Hacılar
period in Anatolia
and Çatalhöyük
8000 BC 7000 BC 6000 BC 5000 BC

6800 BC Çatalhöyük 5000 BC Pottery
7250–7500 BC
develops into a begins to combine
Community at Çayönü
farming town of functionality with
near Diyarbakır farms Terracotta
5,000 people attractive design
with sheep and goats jar from
Canhasan
THE HISTORY OF TURKEY 47
The Assyrians see p295) are the earliest examples of

The empire of Assyria developed in north- writing to have been discovered in Anatolia.
ern Mesopotamia sometime in the 3rd Lively trade meant increased travel and
millennium BC. It expanded and, by about demands on transport. Some areas saw
1900 BC, a network of Assyrian trading the introduction of simple taxation systems.
colonies had been established. Commerce For the first time in history, money came
between northern Mesopotamia and to be regarded as the primary source
Anatolia began to take shape. of wealth, and envy, conflict and
As trade goods circulated, violence ensued as communities
the demand for them quickly sought to protect territories, routes
grew and merchants found and resources from outsiders.
themselves catering to a Not all inhabitants of the area
rapidly expanding market. presently occupied by Turkey
The Assyrians grasped the gathered in central Anatolia. The
importance of keeping track city of Troy, immortalized by Homer
of their transactions, and devel- and Virgil, stood at the strategic
oped a writing system using entrance to the Dardanelles Straits
cuneiform symbols to represent (see p172). Some scholars believe
words. Their trade agreements Assyrian clay “letter” that the fall of Troy, as told in Homer’s
and accounts were imprinted on and envelope Iliad, coincides with the end of the
clay tablets, several of which have Bronze Age, an era that had helped
been preserved. The commercial records to establish an artistic and civilized culture
that were found at the Assyrian trading in which the next civilization, the Hittites,
colony at Kanesh (modern Kültepe, would thrive and flourish.
Helen of Troy
According to Greek mythology, Helen was the most
beautiful woman of the ancient world. She was the
daughter of King Tyndareus and Leda, who had been
seduced by Zeus. In childhood, Helen was abducted
by Theseus, who hoped to marry her when the time
came. After having been rescued by her twin
brothers Castor and Pollux, King Tyndareus decreed
that Helen should marry the man of her choice.
Helen chose Menelaus, king of Sparta, and lived
happily at his side until she met Paris. Her elopement
with the Trojan prince resulted in a heated battle
between Greece and Troy as Menelaus fought to free
his wife. After nine years of futile warfare Menelaus
and Paris agreed to meet in single combat. Paris died
as a result of his wounds; the victorious Menelaus
reclaimed his Helen and returned with her to Sparta,
where they lived happily to an old age. Helen of Troy with Paris, depicted in a 1631 painting by Guido Reni
4000–3000 BC 3000 BC Beginning of

Settlement at 1900 BC Brisk
Bronze Age in Anatolia;
Alacahöyük Troy, Ephesus and Smyrna trade by Assyrian
Gold cup, trading colonies
flourishes become important cities
Alacahöyük
4000 BC 3000 BC 2000 BC
3900 BC Cities begin 2500 BC Hatti 1900–2000 BC Assyrian

to emerge and a civilization Arrival of Hittites from cylinder seal
simple form of establishes city the Caucasus; rise of made of
writing develops kingdoms Hittite empire serpentine
The Hittites Their cuneiform texts also revealed a

Historians are uncertain about the origins complex legal system and their remarkably
of the Hittites and how they got to Anatolia. fair treatment of criminals and prisoners.
It is clear that they arrived some time before King Anitta conquered large parts of
the second millennium BC and were central Anatolia, including the Assyrian
established at the time of the Assyrian trading colony at Kanesh. His conquests
trading colonies. Theirs was the first increased the might of the kingdom,
powerful empire to arise in Anatolia. but also led to decentralization.
Its capital was at Hattuşaş, present- The empire splintered into
day Boğazkale (see pp300–1). several city-states, until King
The Hittite language, which was Huzziya began to reunite the
written in both cuneiform script independent elements and
and hieroglyphics, is believed to be fought to regain parts of Anatolia.
the oldest of the Indo-European One of King Huzziya’s
languages and was deciphered only successors, Labarna Hattushili I,
Remains of Hittite
in 1915. Large collections of Hittite relief, Boğazkale is considered to be the founder
writings were discovered at Hattuşaş. of the Old Hittite Empire. He had
They contained cuneiform texts on various his eye on wealthy Syria, then an important
subjects, such as religious rituals, omens, centre of trade, crafts and agriculture, and
myths and prayers, as well as royal annals, in an effort to annex its city-states he began
state treaties and diplomatic letters. Religion to extend his campaigns into northern
and appeasing the gods played an impor- Syria. One of his grandsons finally managed
tant role in Hittite life. They worshipped to conquer Babylon around 1530 BC, but
the “Thousand Gods of the Land of Hatti”, the constant wars made expansion difficult,
an impressive pantheon of semitic deities, and in general Hittite rulers repeatedly
chief among whom were the Weather or gained, lost and regained territories
Storm god, and his wife, the Sun goddess. throughout the duration of their empire.
An advanced people, Hittites knew
the art of forging iron, an advantage that Golden Age of the Hittites
made them a powerful military force. The Hittite empire reached its peak in
1259 BC, when Hattushili III and Ramses II,
the ruler of Egypt, signed an agreement
of peace and friendship. As a result of this
treaty, Hittite culture could flourish and
the city of Hattuşaş grew rapidly. The Hittite
empire entered its Golden Age. Hattuşaş
grew into a large city. It was surrounded by
sturdy walls and had an impressive temple
and palace complex. The columns of the
Carved reliefs on the Sphinx Gate at Alacahöyük royal palace were supported on bases in
1750 BC Pitkhana of 1400 BC Disputes

Kushar and his son lead to temporary
1530 BC Murshili I
Anitta conquer large loss of control over
conquers Babylon
parts of central northern Syria
Anatolia
2000 BC 1800 BC 1600 BC 1400 BC
Spouted jug,
Kültepe 1550 BC Labarna
1700 BC King Hattushili I establishes
Anitta’s empire capital at Hattuşaş
dissolves into Hittite (present-day
city-states statuette Boğazkale)
the shape of bulls and lions,

while the city gates were
decorated with elaborate
relief sculptures of fantastic
sphinxes and armed gods.
Relative peace and
stability saw a flowering
of Hittite culture. Elegant
pottery items, metal
figures, animal-shaped
vessels and stamp seals
bearing royal symbols were
produced. They also
collected the documents in Croesus, the wealthy king of the Lydians
cuneiform script that now
provide valuable information about Towards the Hellenistic Age
their culture for archaeologists. According During the 7th century BC, Anatolia
to records written at the time, Hittite gradually became dominated by the
kingdoms flourished throughout Anatolia. Lydians, while the Lycian civilization
flourished along the Mediterranean
Decline of the Hittites coastline. Their rock tombs (see p219)
In the early 12th century BC, an indistinct can still today be seen between Fethiye
group of maritime marauders knowns as and Antalya (see pp222–3).
the “Sea Peoples” migrated to the eastern The Lydians, a powerful Hittite-related
Mediterranean, and the collapse tribe, settled in western Anatolia. Under
of the Hittites is attributed to their the leadership of their king, Croesus,
warring tactics. Around 1205 BC, they conquered and annexed
Mediterranean pirates harried the many Anatolian city-states
boundaries of the empire, while around 700 BC. Renowned
the empire was suffering under a silversmiths, they are credited
terrible famine. Many people died with the invention of coinage.
or fled, leaving only vestiges of the Lydian coin In the meanwhile, the Ionian
from 700 BC
former empire in Syria and southern Renaissance saw a flowering
Anatolia. The Assyrians used the sufferings of Greek culture and economy along
of the Hittites to their advantage and the Aegean coast. Pioneers from Miletus
incorporated many of their kingdoms. (see pp194–5) established colonies along
The remaining pieces of the former the shores of the Mediterranean and
Hittite empire were occupied by the Black Sea. City-states such as Knidos
Phrygians, a Balkan tribe, who had and Halicarnassus flourished, setting the
invaded from the northwest. stage for the next act in Anatolia’s history.
700 BC Remaining
1274 BC War 1000 BC Urartians Assyrian- Hittite kingdoms
between Syria establish a state influenced annexed by Assyria
and Egypt near Lake Van statue of King
Tarhunza
1200 BC 1000 BC 800 BC
1259 BC War with Egypt ends

with the first written peace treaty 800 BC Phrygians rise
signed by Ramses II and Hittite Urartian to power in central and
king Hattushili III gold button southeastern Anatolia
The Hellenistic Age

Istanbul
Eastward expansion of Greek influence, roughly Ankara
between 330 BC and 132 BC, was led by Alexander
the Great (356–324 BC). After the assassination of his
father, Philip II of Macedon, the young Alexander first
consolidated his position in Europe and then took on
the might of the Persian Empire, which had absorbed
most of Anatolia during the 5th century BC. He first Alexander’s Empire
invaded Anatolia and Phoenicia, proceeding on Alexander’s campaigns
to Egypt and India, setting up cities and leaving
garrisons behind as he went. In Anatolia, the
new colonists soon became the ruling class Sarisses (spears) used by the
Macedonian phalanx (battle
and imposed laws to promote Hellenization. formation) were 5.5 m (18 ft) long.
Pergamum
This artist’s impression shows what the
hilltop city would have looked like in
200 BC. It depicts the magnitude of
Alexander’s vision to create Pergamum
as the perfect Greek city.
Alexander is on his
stallion, Bucephalus.
The Battle at Issus

After campaigning in Asia Minor for just one
year, Alexander won his first major battle.
In November 333 BC, he and the Persian king,
Darius III, clashed for the second time. At a
mountain pass at Issus (near İskenderun),
Macedonian troops managed to encircle the
Persian cavalry. When Darius saw Alexander
cut through his men and head straight for
him, he fled the field, leaving his troops in
disarray and his mother, wife and children
as hostages. Victorious Alexander pressed on
to Egypt and then across Persia to the
Perge
The city of Perge, reputedly founded by Himalayas, until a mutiny by his exhausted
two Greek seers after the Trojan War, soldiers in 324 BC forced him to turn back.
welcomed Alexander the Great in He died of a sudden fever in Babylon the
333 BC and gave him guides for his following year, at the age of 32.
journey from Phaselis to Pamphylia.
Alexander Sarcophagus
Dating from the late 4th century BC, this sarco-
phagus is named after Alexander because he is Gold Octodrachma
depicted in the battle-scene friezes. The carvings This coin was minted
are regarded as being among the most exquisite by one of Alexander’s
examples of Hellenistic art ever discovered. successors, King
Seleukos III of Syria, who
ruled from 226 to 223 BC.
Golden chariot
Darius III
The Lycian Sarcophagus and Harpy

Tomb at Xanthos
Xanthos was the chief city of ancient
Lycia. Ravaged by the Persians around
540 BC, it was rebuilt and soon
regained its former prominence. The
Lycian sarcophagus and the Harpy
Tomb shown here date from this
period. Together with Pinara and many
other Lycian cities, Xanthos surendered
to Alexander the Great in 334 BC.
The Gordian Knot

Zeus, the father of the gods, had decreed that
the people of Phrygia should choose as their
king the first person to ride a wagon to his
temple. The unlikely candidate, according
to legend, was a peasant by the name of
Gordius. Hardly able to believe his good
fortune, the newly crowned king dedicated
his wagon to Zeus, tying it to a pillar of the
temple with an intricate knot. A subsequent
oracle prophesied that the person who
managed to untie it would become ruler
of all Asia. That honour fell to Alexander the
Great, who cheated the oracle by using his
Alexander and the Gordian knot sword to cut the strands.
Rome Moves Eastward Roman Expansion

The Roman Republic, established in central The short-lived empire of Alexander the
Italy around 500 BC, began a rapid Great produced a number of successor
expansion to the east during states, including the Seleucid empire, which
the 2nd century BC. After controlled much of Anatolia by the 2nd
defeating their old enemies century BC. In two wars, known as the First
and rivals, the Carthaginians, and Second Macedonian Wars, Rome gained
the Roman armies defeated control of key city-states and kingdoms on
the Greeks at Corinth and the Mediterranean coast and in the
Galatian forces in northern Anatolian interior. Most submitted without
Anatolia. While the Romans resistance; others were simply handed over.
were victorious in battle, King Attalus III of Pergamum, for example,
the civilization of the simply left his kingdom to Rome in 133 BC
Greeks in time exerted a when he realized that resistance was futile.
Marble head of a great influence on Rome. Those who fought back, such as Mithridates
Greek youth This led the poet Horace to VI of Pontus, were eventually defeated. But
write “Graecia capta ferum victorum cept” the wars against Mithridates marked the
(Greece took her fierce conqueror captive). beginning of the turbulent Roman civil wars.
Greek art and culture dominated the Roman In 31 BC, Octavian, the nephew of Julius
way of life. The Romans even adopted Greek Caesar, emerged as victor of the civil wars.
as lingua franca in their newly acquired As a sign of its gratitude, the Roman Senate
territories east of the Adriatic Sea. declared him emperor, and he was
Roman rule brought the benefits henceforth known as Augustus. Apart
of Roman civilization, such as from extending the Roman territory and
law, better hygiene and civil reorganizing the army, Octavian also estab-
engineering. As they advanced, lished colonia, communal villages for retired
Roman armies built impressive soldiers. Examples of these can still be seen
military roads. These were of vital today, at Sagalassos and Antiocheia-
importance for trade. At the in-Pisidia (near modern-day Eğirdir).
height of the Roman empire, it
was possible to travel from the Roman Religion
Adriatic coast to Syria on well- The Romans worshipped an
constructed, wide stone roads. impressive array of gods. The
The Stadiusmus (guidepost) greatest were Jupiter, his wife Juno,
monument at Patara (near Minerva, the goddess of wisdom,
Kalkan), possibly erected by and Mars, god of war. Apart from their
Claudius, displays an inventory own deities, the Romans also
of roads and distances 19th-century depiction of adopted those of the people
throughout Lycia. Mithridates VI of Pontus they conquered, and allowed
546 BC Sardis, captial of the AD 96–180 Five

Lydian Empire, is overthrown 130 BC The Roman good emperors
by the Persians under Cyrus province of Asia rule Rome
the Great is created
Cyrus the Great Emperor Hadrian
600 BC 400 BC 200 BC AD 1
68 BC Pompey
334 BC Alexander the defeats the pirates
560–546 BC King Great claims St Paul’s AD 1 St Paul
Croesus rules the Anatolian peninsula Well in (Saul of Tarsus)
Lydian empire from the Persians Tarsus born in Cilicia
the local customs to continue. numerous other towns erected

The people of Anatolia, there- elaborate, beautiful memorial arches
fore, continued to perform to honour the emperor and
the fertility rites that were commemorate his visit.
associated with the mother
goddess, Cybele. Other, smaller Christianity
sects and cults also flourished. St Paul, born Saul of Tarsus around
Mithraism, originating with the AD 1, established the first churches
Zoroastrian religion that was in Asia Minor. Early Christian
practised in Persia, was extremely communities soon came into
influential, particularly among conflict with Roman authorities
the soldiers of the Roman Statuette of the Mother when they refused to make
army. Many people, especially Goddess, Cybele
sacrifices to the emperor. However,
the poor, were drawn to the all this changed in the 4th century
popular cult of the Egyptian god, Osiris. AD, when Constantine, who ruled from
AD 324 to 337, converted to Christianity.
Five Good Emperors His conversion came about just before the
By the 2nd century AD, peace and order Battle of the Milvian Bridge in AD 311, when
again prevailed in Rome’s outlying he had a vision of a flaming cross inscribed
provinces. At home, the empire prospered with the words “in this sign, conquer”.
under the rule of the “five good emperors” In AD 324, Constantine founded the city
(Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, Antonius Pius, and of Constantinople (the site of modern-day
Marcus Aurelius with Lucius Verus). During Istanbul), and within six years had made it
this period of relative peace and prosperity, the capital and Christian centre of the
the Romans endowed their far-flung empire. Massive walls enclosed its seven
territories with countless sophisticated hills, and the emperor ordered the
aqueducts and nymphaea (reservoir construction of a hippodrome, forum and
systems) to distribute fresh public baths. Coastal cities
water and remove waste were plundered for works of
products. Theatres and council art to adorn the new capital,
chambers were built, as were and new settlers were enticed
stadia and gymnasia to host by offers of bread and land.
the popular sporting events. Constantine was succeeded
When Emperor Hadrian (AD by Theodosius, after whose
117–138) toured the remote death the empire was divided
provinces, the delighted into two halves ruled by his
citizens of Attaleia (modern sons, Arcadius and Honorius.
Antalya) (see pp222–3), The division sowed the seeds
Termessos (see p224) and Hadrian, one of the “five good emperors” of Rome’s eventual decline.
284–305 Diocletian 324 Constantine Constantine 641 Constantine III,

divides the Roman becomes sole and his wife, born Heraclonas in
Empire into east ruler of the Helen 626, becomes
and west Roman Empire co-ruler at age 15
200 400 600 800

716 Treaty signed by
141 Major 311 Edict of 330 Constantinople Theodosius III and
518 Dynasty of
earthquake tolerance is founded Bulgarian Khan Tervel
Justinian begins
in southern towards by emperor Justinian establishes the border
with the rule of
Asia Minor Christianity Constantine of Thrace
Justin (518–527)
The Byzantine Empire

The Byzantine empire reached its height under Justinian
(AD 527–65), who reconquered much of North Africa, Italy
and southern Spain and initiated major building programmes,
including the construction of the Haghia Sophia (see pp86–7).
Under his rule, Constantinople was endowed with beautiful
palaces, churches and public buildings. In the 8th century, the
empire became wracked by the iconoclastic dispute, which Byzantine Empire
centred on the role of images in religious life, and its territory Extent in AD 565
steadily shrank under pressure from Arab expansion and the
influx of the Seljuk Turks.
Gate of St Romanus
Constantinople in 1200
For almost a thousand years, Mocius Cistern
Constantinople was the richest city
in Christendom. At its core were
the church of Haghia Sophia, the
Hippodrome (see p94) and the
Great Palace (see pp96–7). In 1204 a
Crusader army sacked the city and
carried off many of its treasures.
Walls of Constantine
Church of St John (now totally Forum of
of Studius destroyed) Arcadius Harbour of
Theodosius
Byzantine Church Architecture Typical Late

Early Byzantine churches were either basilical (such as Byzantine Church
St John of Studius, see p120) or built to a centralized
A central apse
plan (as in SS Sergius and Bacchus, see
is flanked by
p96). From the 9th century, churches two smaller
were built around four corner piers, side apses.
or columns. Exteriors consisted
mostly of unadorned brickwork, but Four
the interiors were lavishly decorated columns
with golden mosaics. Although the support the
Ottoman sultans converted dome.
Constantinople’s churches into
mosques after their conquest Brickwork
of the city, many original features may alternate
with layers
are still clearly discernible today. of stone.
The narthex, a covered porch, forms

Golden mosaics cover the
the entrance to the church.
ceilings and upper walls.
“Greek Fire”
Walls of Theodosius The Byzantines defended their shores using powerful ships
The land walls built by Theodosius II called dromons, oared vessels from which “Greek fire” (an early
withstood many sieges until the form of napalm) could be directed at enemy vessels.
Ottoman conquest in 1453.
Blachernae
Palace
Aqueduct of Valens
Forum of Water from the Belgrade
Constantine Forest and the mountains
(see p95) west of the city was brought
into Constaninople on this
double-tiered structure.
Basilica Cistern (see p90)
Church of SS
Sergius and
Bacchus
Hippodrome
Great Palace
(see p94)
(see pp96–7)
Haghia Sophia
The great church (see pp86–7) blazed with mosaics,
including this example showing Christ flanked by Justinian and Theodora, who ruled the
the Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe. Byzantine Empire at its height
Origins of the Turks

The Turkish people are descended from
tribes of Central Asian nomads, known as
the Turkmen. In the 10th century, some
of these tribes moved into Russia, China
and India, while others began raiding
Byzantine-ruled Anatolia. The attacks
increased as the century progressed,
until one group, the Seljuks, broke away
and gradually began to move eastward. Seljuk manuscript depicting Aristotle and disciples
Around the middle of the 11th century,
the Seljuk Turks crossed the Oxus River and Other states established by the Seljuks were
invaded Persia. Baghdad fell in 1055, and those of the Danışman at Sivas (1095–1175)
it was here that Seljuk leader Tuğrul Bey, and Saltuks (1080–1201) at Erzurum.
was crowned caliph – ruler of the Islamic The period from the late 11th to late 12th
world. Tuğrul Bey established the century was one of turmoil in Anatolia. The
powerful Great Seljuk Sultanate, arrival of the Crusaders, who seized
which ruled much of the Islamic Nicaea (modern-day İznik) in 1097,
world from 1055 until 1156. and then Antioch (modern
Antakya) the following year,
The Seljuk Rum Sultanate altered the balance of power
Alp Arslan, nephew of Tuğrul drastically. The Crusader
Bey, succeeded him as sultan in influence was especially
1063, and went on to occupy pronounced in southern
Syria and Armenia, and to Anatolia, where Crusader
launch various raids into knights established the
Anatolia. In 1071, the Byzantines Principality of Antioch and the
tried to defeat the Seljuks, but County of Edessa (centred on
their army was destroyed at the modern-day Şanlıurfa). The
Battle of Manzikert (Malazgirt) Romanus IV Diogenes (left), Seljuks moved their capital to
on 26 August 1071, a disaster vanquished at Manzikert Konya, and the Byzantines
which saw the capture of the tried once more to repel the
emperor, Romanus IV Diogenes. Seljuks, only to be soundly defeated at
Although the victorious Seljuks did not the Battle of Myriocephalon in 1176.
actively seek to govern Anatolia, the vacuum Under the rule of Kılıç Arslan II (1156–92),
left by the Byzantine defeat resulted in the the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum became the
formation of a series of Islamic-Turkish states. most powerful state in Anatolia. The capture
The most famous of these states was the of Antalya (see pp222–3) in 1207 gave
Seljuk Sultanate of Rum (1077–1308), initially access to the Mediterranean, and Seljuk
based in Nicaea (modern İznik) (seepp164–5). Anatolia prospered. The capture of Sinop
867 Macedonian 913–959 Rule of 1018 Anatolia is

dynasty comes to Constantine VII invaded by the 1025 Death
power under Basil I Porphygenitus Seljuk Turks of Basil II
800 900 1000
843 Icons are permitted 1000 Asia Minor is 1071 Byzantines

again after an era of invaded by the defeated at Battle of
destruction 886 Death of Basil I Seljuk Turks Manzikert
together with painting and

sculpture. This cultural
renaissance was partly caused
by an influx of skilled and
educated people fleeing the
advance of the Mongols
from the east.
Seljuk stone bridge near Aspendos
Mongol Domination
in 1214 secured trade across the Black Sea, In 1243 Mongol forces defeated the Seljuk
and the capture of Alanya (see p230) in army at Kösedağ, and until 1308 the
1221 provided an additional boost to Seljuk sultans were reduced to the status
maritime trade. of vassals under the Mongols. During the
13th and 14th centuries, many Christians
Wealth and Prosperity converted to Islam, because the Mongols
To consolidate their power, the Seljuks offered reduced taxation for Muslims.
forged trade relations with other states The Mongols ruled Anatolia until 1335,
signing agreements with Byzantium, when the first Beylik states were set up
Cyprus, Provence, Pisa, Venice, Florence by rebel Turkmen. These included the
and Genoa between 1207 and 1253. They Karamanids in the Taurus highlands and
constructed bridges to facilitate overland the Danişmandids in central Anatolia.
trade and built hans and kervanserays However, it was the small emirate
(see pp28–9) to provide shelter for of Ertuğrul, based in Eskişehir, that
travelling merchants and their goods. triumphed. Ertuğrul’s son, Osman,
The Seljuk empire was at its height founded a dynasty known as the
under Sultan Malik Şah (1072–92), who Ottomans, and created one of the
generously patronized the arts and greatest empires the world has known.
sciences. Yet the hallmark of
Seljuk civilization was their
architecture, which reached a
peak in the 13th century. The
hospital complex at Divriği
(see p323), harbour fortifications
at Alanya, the Sultanhanı near
Aksaray (see pp28–9) and the
Karatay theological college in
Konya (see pp254–5) were all
built during this efflorescence.
Under the Rum Seljuks, science
and literature flourished, Mongol archers attacking Seljuk cavalry
1131 Sultan Mesut I 1204 Constantinople 1326 Ottoman armies

Crusader establishes the Seljuk is besieged, sacked capture Bursa; Orhan Bey is
Rum sultanate with its and looted during the the first Ottoman ruler to
capital at Konya Fourth Crusade call himself sultan
1100 1200 1300
1176 Defeat of 1299 Osman Bey

1100–1400 Start of the establishes Ottoman
Byzantines at 1243 Mongol
Crusades, undertaken to Myriocephalon principalities in Söğut
invasion of
liberate the Holy Land and Domaniç
Anatolia
The Ottoman Empire

The expansion of the Ottoman lands accelerated during the
late 13th century. A turning point was Mehmet II’s capture
of Constantinople in 1453. Constant wars advanced the
imperial frontiers deep into the Balkans and the Middle East.
Syria and Egypt fell in 1516–17, bringing the holy cities of
Mecca and Medina under Ottoman control. By the mid-
1500s the Ottoman sultan was the central figure of the Ottoman Empire
(Sunni) Muslim world. The Ottoman Empire, though often Maximum Extent (1566)
associated with excessive opulence, was characterized also
by its efficient administration, religious tolerance and
immense military power.
The elite Janissaries (see p60)
were professional soldiers.
Osman I
Foot soldiers
The founder of the were often
Ottoman dynasty ruled poorly trained
a small emirate on auxiliaries.
the frontiers of
the declining
Byzantine empire.
Expansion of the
Ottoman lands
began under his
Cannons were
son, Orhan. used in large
numbers by the
Ottoman armies.
The Fall of Constantinople

Constantinople, the last remnant of Byzantium, fell to Mehmet II (The Conqueror)
the army of Mehmet II on 29 May 1453. This view The sultan safeguarded freedom
shows the Turkish camp, and the bridge of boats built of worship and successfully
to cross the Golden Horn. repopulated Constantinople.
Barbarossa
Regarded as
a glorious
Ottoman hero,
and in 1533
admiral of the
navy, to adver-
saries Barbarossa
was a fearless
corsair. Ottoman
naval power was
less invincible
after his death. Ottoman Cartography
In 1521, the Ottoman admiral and carto-
grapher Piri Reis drew on the accounts
Horses were held in high regard. The banner of of Spanish and Portuguese explorers and
the sultan’s troops was a horsetail. captured sailors to compile a remarkable
map of the world on gazelle hide.
Ottoman
soldiers were
known for their
skilful archery.
Sipahis
fought on
horseback.
Süleyman the Magnificent

One of the most enlightened
sultans, Süleyman (1520–66)
was a poet, lawmaker and
patron of the arts. Art and
architecture flourished during
his prosperous rule.
The Battle 0f Mohacs

At Mohacs, on 28 August 1526,
Süleyman the Magnificent led an
army of 200,000 against the
forces of Louis II, the 14-year-old
king of Hungary. The Hungarian
forces were outmanoeuvred by
the Janissaries (see p60) and
faltered under massed Ottoman
artillery fire. Despite this great
success, the expansion of the
Ottoman empire into Europe
came to an end after two
unsuccessful sieges of Vienna
in 1529 and 1532.
The Battle of Lepanto, 1571
Ottoman sea power was fatally weakened after the defeat by
Don John of Austria, commanding the fleet of the Holy League
in the waters of the Gulf of Patros.
The Empire of Suleyman Displays of Wealth

The Ottoman Empire reached its zenith After Süleyman’s death, the empire was
under the leadership of Sultan Süleyman ruled by a succession of mediocre sultans
the Magnificent (1520–66). It who concentrated on enjoying
stretched from the borderlands of their riches rather than ruling
southern Hungary to Yemen, and their vast territories. Selim II
from the Crimea to Morocco. (Selim the Sot) was known
This advance was aided by well- more for his fondness for wine
organized administration, as well than his interest in the affairs of
as military organization. A key state. Thus the empire became
practice was devşirme, which easy prey for the plotting and
required rural Christian subjects intrigue of the Janissaries, as
to give one son to the service well as the expansionist
of the sultan. The boys converted ambitions of other powers.
to Islam and were educated to At the signing of the Treaty
become civil servants or of Karlowitz in 1699, the
Janissaries (soldiers). Members of the Janissary corps empire lost half its European
Janissaries were subject to strict possessions. This marked the
discipline, including celibacy, but could beginning of the empire’s decline and
gain high-ranking privileges that were opened the way for Russian advances
previously reserved for bureaucrats. in the Black Sea region. Long years of
An ambitious kul (slave) could attain war followed, forcing the state to
powerful status. In fact, many grand reorganize its finances.
viziers (prime ministers) were products Families that could afford to buy state
of the devşirme system. land began to accumulate great personal
By the 18th century, however, the former wealth. In imitation of Sultan Ahmet III
elite corps had become a corrupt political (1703–30), the elite built palaces on the
power and a serious threat to the sultanate. Bosphorus, sported the latest European
Whenever the Janissaries felt that their fashions and lived in luxury. Corruption
privileges were under threat, they rioted and nepotism affected the entire empire,
violently and no-one dared to intervene. while its borders were constantly
threatened. In 1730, an uprising in Istanbul
overthrew Ahmet III. In short wars with
Russia, Venice, Austria and Persia, the
empire continued to lose territory.
Revival and Decline

A period of peace, from 1739 to 1768,
produced an economic upswing and a
Dolmabahçe Palace, a lavish display of opulence brief artistic renaissance that saw the
1397 The first 1513 Piri Reis

1335 Beginning of
the Beylik Period Ottoman siege of creates a map of
Mehmet the
Constantinople the world
Conqueror
1300 1400 1500 1600
1364 Sultan Orhan 1453 Constantinople
recaptures Edirne falls to Mehmet II, the 1569 Great fire of
1533 Barbarossa
(Adrianople) Conqueror, and is Istanbul destroys
becomes admiral much of the city
renamed Istanbul
of Ottoman fleet
completion of the Nurosmaniye European powers after the

in 1755 – the first sultanic disastrous Crimean War
mosque complex built in (1853–56) and based on
Istanbul since that of Ahmet I Western-style, secular
in 1617. This interlude was ideals, was greeted
shattered when Russian with indignation.
troops mobilized by
Catherine the Great invaded Times of War
the feeble Ottoman Empire. In the 1870s, a reformist
In two periods of war (1768– movement known as the Young
74 and 1788–91), the Russians Ottomans began to press for a
Portrait of the hero Sultan
gained access to the Black Sea constitutional monarchy. Sultan
Abdül Hamit II
and managed to annex the Abdül Hamit II enacted some
Crimean region. This was the first Muslim liberal reforms, but dissolved the infant
territory lost by the Ottomans and they were parliament in 1878 as the country
also forced to pay reparations to Russia. entered a disastrous war with Russia.
In 1826, Mahmut II suppressed During the next few years, further
the Janissaries in a massacre known as the debilitating wars took place, gradually
“Auspicious Event” and reorganized ensuring the independence of the Balkan
the bureaucracy in an effort to provinces. In 1908, a rebellious group of
modernize the empire. Russia, meanwhile, officers formed the Committee of Union
encouraged Greece, Serbia, Moldavia and and Progress, dubbed the Young Turks.
the Ottoman vassal state of Wallachia (in When Abdül Hamit II refused to accept a
modern Romania) to demand self-rule. constitution, he was replaced by the weak
Mahmut II hoped that by passing the Mehmet V, and the CUP took control.
Tanzimat Reforms (1839 and 1856) he In 1912 and 1913, the empire lost most
could ensure good government, equality of its remaining European possessions in
for all and a stronger state. However, the the Balkan Wars. Greatly weakened, it slid
edict of 1856, written under pressure from into World War I a year later on the side of
Germany and Austria-Hungary. The cost
of the war in economic and human terms
was immeasurable. By 1918, only the
heartland of Anatolia remained of the
Ottoman Empire. Foreign troops occupied
Istanbul, İzmir, Antakya and Antalya.
Turkish nationalists reacted by setting
up an assembly in Ankara, but the
ensuing war for independence set
the seal on a Turkey that determined
Russian troops fighting Turkish forces in the Caucasus in 1914 its own destiny.
1807 Janissaries
1648 Great 1881 Mustafa Kemal
earthquake 1699 Treaty of rebel against
(later Atatürk) is born
of Istanbul Karlowitz reforms to control
in Salonika
their power Atatürk
1700 1800 1900
1686 Ottomans 1740 Stirrings 1826 Mahmut II 1906 Early movement
are forced to of dissent in crushes the 1840–55 Tanzimat towards the Committee
evacuate Egypt Janissaries in a reforms attempt to of Union and Progress
Hungary brutal revolt modernize and revive (CUP)
the Ottoman Empire
The Treaty of Lausanne

The disastrous losses of World War I,
and the subsequent occupation of
parts of Turkey by powers such as
Britain, France and Italy, fuelled Turkish
nationalism. When Greek troops
occupied İzmir on 15 May 1919 and
pushed eastwards to Ankara, the
seeds for war were sown. Turkish
efforts met with little success until
Mustafa Kemal, an army officer Signatories at Lausanne, with Mussolini among them
respected for his heroism during the
Gallipoli campaign of 1915–16, assumed the and culture and his forward-thinking ideas
leadership. At Nationalist congresses in envisaged a modern, secular Turkish state.
Erzurum and Sivas in 1919, his ideas for the His aim was to establish a multi-party
establishment of a Turkish republic aroused democracy with an opposition party.
unanimous support. He instituted radical reforms and borrowed
Greek forces were routed by Nationalist legal and social codes from other European
forces in 1922 and Allied ambitions for countries. Ottoman scripts were replaced
power sharing in what remained of Ottoman by the Latin alphabet and the new Turkish
territories faded. The Treaty of Lausanne language. Dress codes changed and
(1923) recognized the borders and territories surnames were adopted. Schools and courts
of the newly formed state, and the Turkish based on religious laws were abolished and,
Republic was proclaimed the same year, in 1928, a secular state underwritten by a
with Ankara as the new capital city. civil constitution was recognized. Most Turks
As part of the peace settlement and to embraced democratic reform but some
underpin the framework for a cohesive minorities, notably Kurds, who had been
Turkish state, Greece and Turkey agreed to guaranteed land by Allied countries in
exchange their ethnic populations. Around
1.25 million Greeks returned to Greece, and
450,000 Muslims were repatriated to Turkey.
The impact of resettling such considerable
numbers delayed the recovery of both
countries after the war.
Ataturk’s Vision
Mustafa Kemal’s election as leader of the
new state came as no surprise and he was,
thereafter, known as Atatürk, father of the
Turks. He greatly admired European lifestyles Atatürk demonstrating the Latin alphabet
1950 Call to prayer

1915–16 1925–38 Atatürk introduces returned to Arabic 1961 Second
Gallipoli 1924 Caliphate reforms destined to after 27 years in Constitution of
campaign abolished modernize Turkey Turkish the Republic
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960

1923 First Constitution
implemented with the 1938 1952 Turkey
formation of the Republic Atatürk becomes a 1960 First
dies member of NATO military coup
Turkish flag Atatürk memorial
World War I under the Treaty of Sèvres when Turgut Özal became Prime
(1920), saw İslam and a chance for Minister in 1983, he encouraged private
autonomy slipping away. enterprise, sought reconciliation with
the Kurds and opened the country for
Building the State investment and tourism.
Atatürk’s founding doctrines gave
Turks a distinct identity and set the Economic Miracle
seal on the indivisibility of the In 2002, the pro-Islamic AKP (Justice
Turkish state. When Atatürk died in and Development Party) was elected
1938, Turkey had an impressive with a substantial majority. Their
infrastructure and state-run success in dealing with the
enterprises which satisfied basic economy ensured that they were
needs. During World War II, re-elected in 2007, and then in
Turkey pursued peaceful and 2011 for a record-breaking third
Veteran political leader
friendly policies and remained term. Although many secular Turks
Bülent Ecevit
neutral. The Truman Doctrine and are suspicious of the AKP’s long-
Marshall Plan strengthened foreign policy term Islamic goals, a major factor in the Gezi
and ties with the West. Turkey became a Park protests of 2013, their future seems
NATO member in 1952 and 5,500 Turkish stable given the country’s healthy economy
troops fought in the Korean War (1950–54). and divided political opposition. In 2014,
Turkey was ranked a creditable 18th in
Growing Pains the world in terms of GDP. Foreign
Turkey’s military services, defenders of investment continues to flood into the
secularism and Atatürk’s principles, inter- country, Istanbul has become a major
vened in 1960, 1971 and 1980 to restore financial centre and the country received
law and order, with remote regions of around 38 million tourists in 2014.
Turkey remaining under martial law until However, this growth is threatened by
the mid-1990s. During this period, civilian the crises unfolding in neighbouring Iraq
leaders such as Bülent Ecevit grappled and Syria. Trouble at Turkey’s borders has
with the challenges of political instability the potential to deter both tourists and
and economic modernization. The invasion foreign investment in the country.
of Cyprus by Turkey in 1974 left the island
partitioned into Turkish and Greek sides. A
Kurdish challenge for more self-expression
slid into armed conflict, which continues
despite the capture of the Kurdish Workers’
Party leader Abdullah Öcalan in 1999.
Balancing political stability and the
demands of a modern economic state often
undermined democratic goals. However, Folklore dancers in traditional dress
1996 Turkey enters 2009 Arrests made over the Ergenekon plot
NATO emblem European customs 1999 Earthquake
shatters İzmit to bring down the government
union, bringing
1980 Military coup; third potential trade 2011 Earthquake shakes Ercis
Constitution (1982) advantages and Van in eastern Turkey
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1991 As NATO partner, 2013 Gezi Park Protests

1971 1978 Kurdish
Workers’ Party Turkey provides support 2006 The new Turkish Lira (¨)
Military
becomes the country’s 2010 A referendum aims
coup formed for the US during the
official currency to bring Turkish constitution in line
Gulf War
with European Union standards
INTRODUCING
ISTANBUL
Istanbul at a Glance 66–67

Seraglio Point 68–81
Sultanahmet 82–97
The Bazaar Quarter 98–109
Beyoğlu 110–115
Further Afield 116–133
Shopping in Istanbul 134–135
Entertainment in Istanbul 136–137
Istanbul Street Finder 138–149
Istanbul at a Glance
Numerous interesting places to visit in Istanbul are described
Istanbul
in the Area by Area section of this book, which covers the
sights of central Istanbul as well as those a short way out of
the city centre. They range from mosques, churches, palaces
and museums to bazaars, Turkish baths and parks. For a
breathtaking view across the city, climb Galata Tower (see p114)
or take a ferry ride (see p399) to the city’s Asian shore. If you
are short of time, you will probably want to concentrate on
only the most famous monuments, namely Topkapı Palace,
Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, which are located
conveniently close to each other.
The Mevlevi Lodge

(see p114) houses an interesting
museum dedicated to classical
Ottoman poetry. The Whirling
Dervishes also perform here on
TE
RS
the last Sunday of every month.
AN
E
CA
DD
ESİ
A
R
G
RI
IP
A
GÜ
LV
MÜ
BU
Ş PA
LA
CAD
A boat trip along the Bosphorus
K
DESİ
ÜR
AT
(see pp130–31) is a wonderful way to

AT
view sights such as the 14th-century THE BAZAAR

Genoese Castle (above the village of QUARTER
Anadolu Kavağı). (see pp98–109)
SAMI ONAR CADD

ESİ
D
CA
E
IY
AN
M
LE
SÜ
ORDU CA D D E
Sİ
SULTANAHMET
(see pp82–97)
KEN N
E D Y CA DDESİ
Süleymaniye The Grand Bazaar

Mosque (see (see pp108–9) is
pp104–5) was a maze of shops
built by the great under an intricately
architect, Sinan, painted, vaulted
in honour of his roof. Shopkeepers
patron, Süleyman are relentless, and
the Magnificent bargaining (see p134)
(see p59). is a must.
The New Mosque at sunset, Istanbul
I N T R O D U C I N G I S TA N B U L 67
FURTHER AFIELD
(see pp116–33)
E Sİ
DD
CA
A ŞI
LAB
TA R İ
ES
DD
CA BEYOĞLU
L AL
İK (see pp110–15)
İST Sea of
İ
Sİ
ES
Marmara
DE
DD
CAD
0 kilometres 10
CA
The Church of
Y
BE
LER
0 miles 5
St Saviour in Chora
Tİ
CA
E LV İ
(see pp122–3) contains

NE
S I RAS
some of the finest

Byzantine mosaics
and frescoes.
0 metres 1000
Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp126–7), is home
to such marvels as 2 m (7 ft) high vases, a
0 yards 1000
crystal staircase and an alabaster bathroom.
Topkapı Palace (see pp72–3)

was the official residence
SERAGLİO POINT of the sultans for more
(see pp68–81)
than 400 years. Its treasury
contains many precious
objects, such as jewel-
İ S
ADDE
encrusted thrones and this

ornate ceremonial canteen.
EDY C
KENN
Haghia Sophia (see pp86–7),

built in AD 537, remains one
of the world’s great buildings.
The calligraphic roundels
were added during the
19th century.
The Blue Mosque

(see pp92–3) was
built by some of the
same stonemasons
who helped to
build the Taj Mahal.
I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A 69
SERAGLİO POINT
The hilly, wooded promontory that marks The palace is open to the public as a
the meeting point of the Golden Horn, rambling museum, with lavish apartments
the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus and glittering collections of jewels and
occupies a natural strategic position. other treasures. Originally, the palace
In Byzantine times, monasteries and covered almost the whole of the area
public buildings stood on this site. Today, with its gardens and pavilions. Part of the
it is dominated by the grandiose complex grounds have now been turned into a public
of buildings forming Topkapı Palace, park. Adjacent to it is the Archaeological
the residence of the Ottoman sultans and Museum, showcasing a renowned collection
the women of the Harem for 400 years. of finds from Turkey and the Near East.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Palaces 5 Fountain of Ahmet III
Parks
1 Topkapı Palace pp72–3 9 Sublime Porte 8 Gülhane Park
2 Archaeological Museum pp76–7 q Sirkeci Station
Turkish Baths
Churches Streets and Courtyards 0 Cağaloğlu Baths
4 Haghia Eirene
Historic Buildings and
Monuments
3 Museum of the History of Science
and Technology in Islam
Sirkeci Sarayburnu
ES İ
K E N N ED Y C A DD
Sirkeci
İ S TA S Y O N A R K A S I S O K
İ
M
ES
U
CAR A D
DAR ÜSS A D E S O K
DD
ĞI
D İY
KA
N ÖB ET
CA
H AN E
E
SO
İB CAD
Nİ
KE
N
M
HÜ
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US A
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SU
HA
L
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A
TA
D
AN KA
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D
D
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S
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İ
İ
ALE MD AR
SİRKECİ
YOL
H
Ü
KÜ
M
HİL
SO E T
K KO
(SA
N
A
Ğ D
I A
C
Ü Gülhane
ŞK
Ö
YK
LA
A
CA D D E
YE
RE
BA
TA
İ
N
DES
Sİ
C
A
D
DE
Sİ
CAD
İ S HA K
Y
PA
D
ŞA
E
N
CA
0 metres 400
DD
E
K
ES
İ
0 yards 400
Cankurtaran
See also Street Finder map 5
The rooftops of the Harem at the Topkapı Palace with the Bosphorus behind For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: The First

Courtyard of Topkapı
The juxtaposition of Ottoman palace walls, intimately
proportioned wooden houses and a soaring Byzantine
church lends plenty of drama to the First Courtyard, the
outer part of Topkapı Palace. This was once a service area,
housing the former mint, a hospital, college and a bakery.
It was also the mustering point of the Janissaries (see p60).
Nowadays, the Caferağa Courtyard and the Fatih Büfe,
8 Gülhane Park
just outside the courtyard wall, offer unusual settings for Once a rose garden in the outer
refreshments. Gülhane Park, meanwhile, is one of the grounds of Topkapı Palace, the
few shady open spaces in a city of monuments. wooded Gülhane Park provides
welcome shade in which to escape
from the heat of the city.
Museum of the
Ancient Orient
Traditional, painted
wooden houses line
this narrow street.
Entrance to Gülhane Park
9 Sublime Porte
Alay
A Rococo gate stands in Pavilion
place of the old Sublime
Porte, once the entrance
ALEMDAR C
to (and symbol of ) the

Ottoman government.
Gülhane tram stop

A
Key
Suggested route
S
O
Ğ
U
K
C
E
Ş
Fatih Büfe, a tiny M
E
ornate kiosk, sells C
Zeynep Sultan Mosque, A
drinks and snacks. D
resembling a Byzantine church, Otağ Music Shop
was built in 1769 by the daughter sells traditional
of Ahmet III, Princess Zeynep. Turkish instruments.
The cells of this former college, arranged
around a tranquil courtyard café, are 0 metres 75
now occupied by jewellers, calligraphers 0 yards 75
and other artisans selling their wares.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p330 and p346
SERAGLİO POINT 71
2 . Archaeological
Museum THE
BAZAAR
Classical statues, dazzling QUARTER SERGALIO POINT
carved sarcophagi, Turkish
ceramics and other treasures
from all over the former
Ottoman Empire make this
one of the world’s great SULTANAHMET
collections of antiquities.
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 5
Çinili Pavilion The Executioner’s Fountain is so

(see p76) named because the executioner
washed his hands and sword
here after a public beheading.
1 . Topkapı Palace
For 400 years the Ottoman sultans
ruled their empire from this vast
palace. Its fine art collections,
opulent rooms and leafy
courtyards are among the
Entrance to highlights of a visit to Istanbul.
Topkapı Palace
Topkapı Palace
ticket office
4 Haghia Eirene
The Byzantine church of Haghia
Eirene dates from the 6th century.
Unusually, it has never been
converted into a mosque.
Imperial
Gate 5 Fountain of Ahmet III
Built in the early 18th century, the
finest of Istanbul’s Rococo fountains
is inscribed with poetry likening it
to the fountains of paradise.
For keys to symbols see back flap
1 Topkapı Palace
Topkapı Sarayı
Between 1459 and 1465, shortly after his conquest
of Constantinople (see p58), Mehmet II built Topkapı
Palace as his principal residence. Rather than a single
building, it was conceived as a series of pavilions
contained by four enormous courtyards, a stone
version of the tented encampments from which the
nomadic Ottomans had emerged. Initially, the palace
served as the seat of government and contained
a school in which civil servants and soldiers . Harem
were trained. In the 16th century, however, the The labyrinth of exquisite rooms where
the sultan’s wives and concubines lived
government was moved to the Sublime Porte
can be visited on a guided tour (see p75).
(see p79). Sultan Abdül Mecit I abandoned Topkapı in
1853 in favour of Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp126–7).
In 1924 it was opened to the public as a museum.
Entrance to Harem
Gate of
Salutations:
entrance to
the palace
Divan
The viziers of the imperial council met
in this chamber, sometimes watched
covertly by the sultan.
SERAGLİO POINT 73
İftariye Pavilion
Standing between
the Baghdad and
Practical Information
Circumcision
Babıhümayun Cad. Map 5 F3.
pavilions, this
Tel (0212) 512 04 80. ∑ topkapi
canopied balcony
sarayi.gov.tr. Open Apr–Oct:
provides views
9am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–
down to the
5pm daily. & 0 = Harem:
Golden Horn.
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Mon. 8
Transport
v Sultanahmet.
Baghdad Pavilion
In 1639 Murat IV built
this pavilion to celebrate
his capture of
Baghdad. It has
exquisite blue-
and-white
tilework.
KEY
1 The kitchens contain an

exhibition of ceramics, glass and
silverware (see p74).
2 The Gate of Felicity is also called
the Gate of the White Eunuchs.
3 Second courtyard
4 Harem ticket office
5 Exhibition of arms and
armour (see p74).
6 Clock Museum
7 Audience Chamber
8 Library of Ahmet III, erected
in 1719, is an elegant marble
building. This ornamental fountain
. Treasury is set into the wall below its
This 17th-century jewel-
main entrance.
encrusted jug is one of
the precious objects 9 Privy Chamber
exhibited in the former 0 Circumcision Pavilion
treasury (see pp74–5).
q Konyalı Restaurant
w The fourth courtyard is a series
of gardens dotted with pavilions.
e Third courtyard
r Exhibition of Imperial
costumes (see p74).
Exploring the Palace’s Collections view are pieces of 15th-century

Ottoman chainmail and
During their 470-year reign, the Ottoman sultans amassed colourful shields. The shields
a glittering collection of treasures. After the foundation of have metal centres surrounded
the Turkish Republic in 1923 (see p62), this was nationalized by closely woven straw that has
and the bulk of it put on display in Topkapı Palace. As well been painted with flowers.
as diplomatic gifts and articles commissioned from the
craftsmen of the palace workshops, many of the items Imperial Costumes
in the collection were the booty from successful military A collection of imperial
campaigns. Many date from the massive expansion of the costumes is displayed in the
Ottoman Empire during the reign of Selim the Grim (1512–20), Hall of the Campaign Pages,
when Syria, Arabia and Egypt were conquered. whose task was to look after the
royal wardrobe. It was a palace
tradition that on the death of a
show the influence of designs sultan his clothes were carefully
Ceramics, Glass and used for Chinese blue-and-white folded and placed in sealed
Silverware porcelain, such as stylized bags. As a result, it is possible to
The kitchens contain the palace’s flowers and cloud scrolls. Much see a perfectly preserved kaftan
ceramics, glass and silverware of the later porcelain, particularly once worn by Mehmet the
collections. Turkish and the Japanese Imari ware, was Conqueror (see p58). The reforms
European pieces are massively made for the export of Sultan Mahmut II included
overshadowed by the market. The most a revolution in the dress code.
vast display of obvious examples The end of an era came as plain
Chinese (as well of this are some grey serge replaced the earlier
as Japanese) plates decorated luxurious silken textiles.
porcelain. This with quotations
was brought from the Koran.
to Turkey along A part of the
the Silk Route, the kitchens, the old
overland trading confectioners’
link between the pantry, has been
Far East and Europe. Japanese porcelain preserved as it would
Topkapı’s collection of plate have been when in use.
Chinese porcelain is the On display are huge
world’s second best, cauldrons and other utensils
after China. wielded by the palace’s chefs as
The Chinese porcelain on they prepared to feed its 12,000
display spans four dynasties: the residents and guests.
Sung (10–13th centuries),
followed by the Yüan (13–14th
centuries), the Ming (14–17th Arms and Armour
centuries) and the Ching Taxes and tributes from all over
(17–20th centuries). Celadon, the the empire were once stored in
earliest form of Chinese porcelain this chamber, which was known
collected by the sultans, was as the Inner Treasury. Straight
made to look like jade, a stone ahead as you enter are a series
believed by the Chinese to be of horsetail standards. Carried Sumptuous silk kaftan once worn by
lucky. The Ottomans prized it in processions or displayed Mehmet the Conqueror
because it was said to neutralize outside tents, these proclaimed
poison in food. More delicate the rank of their owners. Viziers
than these are a number of (see p60), for example, merited Treasury
exquisite blue-and-white pieces, three, and the grand vizier five, Of all the exhibitions in the
mostly of the Ming era. while the sultan’s banner would palace, the Treasury’s collection
Chinese aesthetics were an flaunt nine. is the easiest to appreciate,
important influence on Ottoman The weaponry includes glittering as it does with
craftsmen, particularly in the ornately embellished swords thousands of precious and
creation of designs for their and several bows made by semi-precious stones. Possibly
fledgling ceramics industry sultans themselves (Beyazıt II the only surprise is that there
at İznik (see p165). Although was a particularly fine craftsman). are so few women’s jewels here.
there are no İznik pieces in the Seen next to these exquisite Whereas the treasures of the
Topkapı collection, many of the items, the huge iron swords used sultans and viziers were owned
tiles on the palace walls by European crusaders look by the state, reverting to the
originated there. These clearly crude by comparison. Also on palace on their deaths, those
SERAGLİO POINT 75
belonging to the Important issues and

women of the matters of state were Pavilion of the Holy
court did not. discussed and decisions Mantle
In the first hall were made – though Some of the holiest relics
stands a diamond- these had first to be ratified of Islam are displayed in the
encrusted suit of by the sultan. The domed Pavilion of the Holy Mantle,
chainmail, designed for chamber is named five domed rooms that are a
Mustafa III (1757–74) after the low benches place of pilgrimage for Muslims.
for ceremonial use. (divans) running around Most of the relics found their
Diplomatic gifts include three of its walls. way to Istanbul as a result of
a fine pearl statuette of the conquest by Sultan Selim
a prince seated beneath a the Grim of Egypt and Arabia,
canopy, which was sent to Clocks and his assumption of the
Sultan Abdül Aziz (1861–76) European clocks given caliphate (the leadership of
from India. The greatest as diplomatic gifts to, or Islam) in 1517.
pieces are to be seen in bought by, various sultans The most sacred treasure
the second hall. Foremost form the majority of this is the mantle once worn by the
among these is the collection, despite the fact Prophet Mohammed. Visitors
Topkapı dagger (1741). that there were makers cannot actually enter the
This splendid of clocks and watches room in which it is stored;
object was in Istanbul from the instead they look into it from
commissioned 17th century. The clocks an antechamber through
by the sultan museum is located an open doorway. Night and
The Topkapı from his own next to the armoury. day, holy men chant passages
dagger jewellers. It was There are some from the Koran over the gold
intended as a 380 clocks on display, chest in which the mantle is
present for the Shah of Persia, ranging from simple, stored. A stand in front
but he died before it reached weight-driven of the chest holds two of
him. Among the exhibits are a 16th-century Mohammed’s swords.
selection of bejewelled examples to Behind a glass
aigrettes (plumes), which an exquisite cabinet in the
were used to add splendour 18th-century anteroom are
to imperial turbans. English mecha- hairs from the
In the third hall is the 86-carat nism encased in beard of the
Spoonmaker’s diamond, said to mother-of-pearl Prophet, a tooth,
have been discovered in a and featuring a a letter written
rubbish heap in Istanbul in the German organ by him and an
17th century, and bought from a which played tunes 17th-century watch made impression of
scrap merchant for three every hour, on the of gold, enamel and his footprint.
spoons. The gold-plated Bayram hour. The only precious stones In other rooms
throne was given to Murat III by male European are some of the
the Governor of Egypt in 1574 eyewitness accounts of life ornate locks and keys for the
and used for state ceremonies. in the Harem were written Kaaba (Muslim shrine in Mecca),
The throne in the fourth hall, by mechanics who serviced which were sent to Mecca by
a gift from the Shah of Persia, the clocks. successive sultans.
was acknowledged by the
equally magnificent gift of the
Topkapı dagger. In a cabinet Life in the Harem
near the throne is an unusual Apart from the sultan’s mother,
relic: a case containing bones the most powerful woman in the
said to be from the hand of Harem, and the sultan’s daughters,
St John the Baptist. the women of the Harem were slaves,
gathered from the furthest corners
of the Ottoman Empire and beyond.
The Divan Their dream was to become a
In many ways the Divan favourite of the sultan and bear
was not only the heart of him a son, which, on some occasions,
led to marriage. Competition was stiff,
the Topkapı Palace, but of
however, for at its height the Harem
the Ottoman Empire itself. contained over 1,000 concubines,
Here, four days a week, many of whom never rose beyond
the sultan’s viziers (top state the service of their fellow captives. A Western view of life in
officials) would meet, and The last women eventually left the the Harem, from a 19th-
their gatherings were presided Harem in 1909. century engraving
over by the grand vizier.
2 Archaeological Museum
Arkeoloji Müzesi
Although this collection of antiquities
was begun only in the mid-19th century,
provincial governors were soon sending in
objects from the length and breadth of the
Ottoman Empire. Today the museum has one
of the world’s richest collections of classical
artifacts, and also includes treasures from the
pre-classical world. The main building was
erected under the directorship of Osman
. Alexander Sarcophagus
Hamdi Bey (1881–1910), to house his finds. This fabulously carved marble tomb from the
This archaeologist, painter and polymath late 4th century BC is thought to have been
discovered the exquisite sarcophagi in built for King Abdalonymos of Sidon. It is called
the royal necropolis at Sidon in present- the Alexander Sarcophagus because Alexander
the Great is depicted on it winning a victory
day Lebanon. over the Persians.
Sarcophagus of the
Mourning Women
The porticoes of the

museum take their
Key
design from the
Classical Archaeology 4th-century BC
Thracian, Bithynian and Sarcophagus of the
Byzantine Collections Mourning Women.
Istanbul Through the Ages
Anatolia and Troy
Anatolia’s Neighbouring Cultures
Turkish Tiles and Ceramics
Museum of the Ancient Orient
Non-exhibition space
Çinili Pavilion
. Karaman Mihrab
This blue, richly tiled mihrab
(see p36) comes from the city of
Karaman in southeast Turkey,
which was the capital of the
Karamanid state from 1256 to
1483. It is the most important
artistic relic of that culture.
Gallery Guide
The 20 galleries of the main building house the
museum’s important collection of classical
antiquities. The additional wing has displays on
the archaeology of Istanbul and nearby regions.
There are two other buildings within the grounds:
the Çinili Pavilion, which houses Turkish tiles and
ceramics, and the Museum of the Ancient Orient.
SERAGLİO POINT 77
Geometric Period Cypriot Jug

Stylized fish decorate this jug, in a
design typical of the Geometric
Period (1050–750 BC), when a
Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu.
vibrant ceramics culture
Map 5 E3. Tel (0212) 527 27 00.
flourished on Cyprus.
∑ istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Tue–
Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–
Sun. & 9 - =
Stairs to main
building Transport
v Gülhane.
Third floor
Second
floor
Mosaic Icon of the Presentation

Dating from the 6th or
7th centuries AD, this battered
panel from Kalenderhane Mosque
(see p103) is the only religious
figurative mosaic to have survived
Byzantium’s iconoclastic period.
First floor
Indoor
café
Ground floor of
additional wing
Porphyry Sarcophagi
Statue of These monumental purple
Marsyas sarcophagi (4th–5th
centuries AD) are thought
Statue and bust of to have held the bodies of
Alexander the Great some of the early
Outdoor café Byzantine emperors.
. Treaty of Kadesh
This tablet constitutes the
world’s earliest surviving
peace treaty, agreed between
the Egyptians and Hittites in
1269 BC. Among its many
clauses are provisions for the
Entrance
return of political refugees.
3 Museum of the
History of Science
and Technology
in Islam
MuseumIstanbul Islam Bilim ve
Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi
Has Ahırlar Binaları, Sirkeci. Map 5 E3.
Tel (0212) 528 80 65. v Gülhane.
Open 9am–5pm Wed–Mon.
∑ ibttm.org
This museum showcases

inventions made by Muslim
scientists between the 8th
and 16th centuries, revealing
that many Islamic advances in
science and technology paved One of the four elaborately decorated sides of the Fountain of Ahmet III
the way for later discoveries
in Europe. Housed in the old worship in Istanbul. Within a Byzantine emperors once lay
stables of the Topkapı Palace, decade of the Muslim conquest in their porphyry sarcophagi.
exhibits include astrolabes, a of the city in 1453 (see p58) it had Most have been moved to
model planetarium and a water been incorporated within the the Archaeological Museum.
clock. Most of the scientific Topkapı Palace complex and
instruments on display are pressed into use as an arsenal.
replicas that have been carefully Today the building, which 5 Fountain of
constructed from drawings and has good acoustics, is the setting Ahmet III
descriptions in contemporary texts. for concerts during the Istanbul
III Ahmet Çeşmesi
All the models were made at the Music Festival (see p39).
behest of the Johann Wolfgang Inside are three fascinating Junction of İshak Paşa Cad &
Goethe University in Frankfurt. features that have not survived Babıhümayun Cad. Map 5 E4.
in any other Byzantine church v Gülhane or Sultanahmet.
in the city. The synthronon,
4 Haghia Eirene the five rows of built-in seats Built in 1729, the most beautiful
Aya İrini Kilisesi hugging the apse, were of Istanbul’s countless fountains
occupied by clergy officiating survived the violent deposition
First courtyard of Topkapı Palace.
during services. Above this of Sultan Ahmet III two years
Map 5 E4. Tel (0212) 522 17 50.
v Gülhane or Sultanahmet.
looms a simple black mosaic later. Many other monuments
Open 9am–4pm Wed–Mon.
cross on a gold background, constructed by the sultan
which dates from the during his reign, which has
Though the present church dates iconoclastic period in the 8th become known as the Tulip
only from the 6th century, it is at century, when figurative images Period, were destroyed. The
least the third building to be were forbidden. At the back of fountain is in the delicate
erected on what is thought to the church is a cloister-like Turkish Rococo style, with five
be the oldest site of Christian courtyard where deceased small domes, mihrab-shaped
niches and dizzying floral reliefs.
Ottoman “fountains” do not
spout jets of water, but are more
like ornate public taps. They
sometimes incorporated a
counter, or sebil, from which
refreshments would be served.
In this case, each of the
fountain’s four walls is equipped
with a tap, or çeşme, above a
carved marble basin. Over each
tap is an elaborate calligraphic
inscription by the 18th-century
poet Seyit Vehbi Efendi.
The inscription, in gold on a
blue-green background, is in
honour of the fountain and its
founder. At each of the four
The apse of Haghia Eirene, with its imposing black-on-gold cross corners there is a sebil backed
SERAGLİO POINT 79
by three windows covered by

ornate marble grilles. Instead Ottoman Houses
of the customary iced water, The typical, smart town house
passers-by at this fountain of 19th-century Istanbul had
would have been offered a stone ground floor above
sherbets and flavoured which were one or two wooden
waters in silver goblets. storeys. The building invariably
sported a çıkma, a section
projecting out over the
6 Soğukçeşme street. This developed from
the traditional Turkish balcony,
Sokağı which was enclosed in the
Map 5 E4. v Gülhane. northern part of the country
because of the colder climate.
Wooden lattice covers, or
Charming old wooden houses
kafesler, over the windows on
line this narrow, sloping Restored Ottoman house on the upper storeys ensured that
cobbled lane (“the street of the Soğukçeşme Sokağı the women of the house were
cold fountain”), which squeezes able to watch life on the street
between the outer walls of below without being seen themselves. Few wooden houses have
Topkapı Palace and the survived. Those that remain usually owe their existence to tourism
towering minarets of Haghia and many have been restored as hotels. While the law forbids their
Sophia. Traditional houses like demolition, it is very expensive to obtain insurance for them in a
these were built in the city from city that has experienced so many fires.
the late 18th century onwards.
The buildings in the lane were
renovated by the Turkish (theological college, see p36). 9 Sublime Porte
Touring and Automobile Club Sinan’s bust presides over the Bab-ı Ali
(TTOK, see p395) in the 1980s. café tables in the courtyard.
Alemdar Cad. Map 5 E3. v Gülhane.
Of these, nine buildings now The former students’ lodgings
form the Ayasofya Pansiyonları, are now used to display a Foreign ambassadors to
a series of attractive pastel- variety of craft goods typically Ottoman Turkey were known
painted guesthouses popular including jewellery, silk prints, as Ambassadors to the Sublime
with tourists. Another building ceramics and calligraphy. Porte, after this monumental
has been converted by the gateway which once led into
TTOK into a library of historical the offices and palace of the
writings on Istanbul, and 8 Gülhane Park grand vizier. The institution
archive of engravings and Gülhane Parkı of the Sublime Porte filled
photographs of the city. an important role in Ottoman
Alemdar Cad. Map 5 E4. v Gülhane.
society because it could
Open daily. &
often provide an effective
Gülhane Park occupies what counterbalance to the whims
were the lower grounds of of sultans.
Topkapı Palace. Today it is a The Rococo gateway that
green and pleasant outdoor stands here today was built in
place with several interesting the 1840s. Its guarded entrance
landmarks and museums. now shields the offices of
The Archaeological Museum Istanbul’s provincial government.
(see pp76–77) is within the park,
to the left of the Topkapı Palace.
Traditional calligraphy on sale in At the far end of the park is the
Caferağa Courtyard Goths’ Column, a well-preserved
3rd-century victory monument,
7 Caferağa surrounded by a cluster of
Courtyard clapboard teahouses. Its name
comes from the Latin inscription
Caferağa Medresesi
on it which reads: “Fortune is
Caferiye Sok. Map 5 E3. v Gülhane. restored to us because of
Open 8:30am–8pm daily. victory over the Goths”.
Across Kennedy Caddesi, the
This peaceful courtyard at main road running along the
the end of an alley was built northeast side of the park,
in 1559 by the architect Sinan there is a viewpoint over the
(see p105) for the chief black busy waters where the Golden Rococo decoration on the roof of the
eunuch as a medrese Horn meets the Bosphorus. Sublime Porte
0 Cağaloğlu Baths such as this one, there are

Cağaloğlu Hamamı entirely separate sections. In the
Cağaloğlu Baths the men’s and
Prof Kazım İsmail Gürkan Cad 34,
Cağaloğlu. Map 5 E4.
women’s sections are at right
Tel (0212) 522 24 24. v Sultanahmet. angles to one another and
Open 8am–10pm daily. entered from different streets.
∑ cagalogluhamami.com.tr Each consists of three parts: a
camekan, a soğukluk and the
Among the city’s more main bath chamber or hararet,
sumptuous Turkish baths, the which centres on a massive
ones in Cağaloğlu were built octagonal massage slab.
by Sultan Mahmut I in 1741. The Cağaloğlu Baths are
The income from them was popular with foreign visitors
designated for the maintenance because the staff are happy to
of Mahmut’s library in Haghia explain the procedure. Even if
Sophia (see pp86–7). you do not want to sweat it out,
The city’s smaller baths have you can still take a look inside Steps leading to the entrance of
different times at which men the entrance corridor and Sirkeci Station
and women can use the same camekan of the men’s section.
facilities. But in larger baths, Here you will find a small display even though the luxurious train
of Ottoman bathing regalia, had been running into Istanbul
including precarious wooden for a year by then. The design,
clogs once worn by women on by the German architect
what would frequently be their August Jasmund, incorporates
only outing from the confines of distinctive windows, arches
the home. You can also sit and and stonework that mirror
have a drink by the fountain in Istanbul’s diverse history and
the peaceful camekan. architectural traditions.
The Orient Express stopped
its service to Istanbul in 1977.
q Sirkeci Station In 2013, the station became a
Sirkeci Garı stop on the Marmaray metro
rail, which runs under the
Sirkeci İstasyon Cad, Sirkeci. Map 5 E3.
Bosphorus and connects the
Tel (0212) 520 65 75. v Sirkeci.
Open daily.
European and Asian halves of
the city.
This magnificent railway The station also has a good
station was built to receive restaurant – historically a
the long-anticipated Orient popular haunt for writers and
Corridor leading into the Cağaloğlu Baths, Express from Europe. It was journalists – and a small museum
built by Mahmut I officially opened in 1890, devoted to railway memorabilia.
The World-Famous Orient Express

The Orient Express made its first run from Paris to Istanbul
in 1889, covering the 2,900 km (1,800 mile) journey in
three days. Both Sirkeci Station and the Pera Palas Hotel
(see p112, 114) in Istanbul were built especially to receive
its passengers. The wealthy and often distinguished
passengers of “The Train of Kings, the King of Trains”
did indeed include kings among the many presidents,
politicians, aristocrats and actresses. King Boris III of
Bulgaria even made a habit of taking over from the
driver of the train when he travelled on it through
his own country.
A byword for exoticism and romance, the train was
associated with the orientalist view of Istanbul as a
treacherous melting pot of diplomats and arms dealers.
It inspired no fewer than 19 books – Murder on the Orient
Express by Agatha Christie and Stamboul Train by Graham
Greene foremost among them – six films and one piece
of music. During the Cold War, standards of luxury crashed,
though a service of sorts, without even a restaurant car, A 1920s poster for the Orient Express, showing a
continued twice weekly to Istanbul until 1977. romantic view of Istanbul
SERAGLİO POINT 81
Turkish Baths
No trip to Istanbul is complete without and massaging. There is no time limit,
an hour or two spent in a Turkish bath but you should allow at least an hour
(hamam), which will leave your whole body and a half to enjoy a leisurely bath. Towels
feeling rejuvenated. Turkish baths differ and soap will be provided, but you can
little from the baths of ancient Rome, from take special toiletries with you. Two
which they derive, except there is no pool historic baths located in the old city,
of cold water to plunge into at the end. Çemberlitaş (see p95) and Cağaloğlu
A full service will entail a period of (illustrated below), are used to catering
relaxation in the steam-filled hot room, for foreign tourists. Some luxury hotels
punctuated by bouts of vigorous soaping have their own baths (see p326).
Choosing a Service
Services, detailed in a price list at
the entrance, range from a self-
service option to a luxury body
scrub, shampoo and massage.
The camekan (entrance hall) is a

peaceful internal courtyard near the
entrance of the building. Bathers
change clothes in cubicles surrounding
it. The camekan is also the place to relax Changing Clothes
with a cup of tea after bathing. Before changing you will be given a
cloth (peştemal), to wrap around you,
Corridor from and a pair of slippers for walking on
street the hot, wet floor.
Small, star-like windows

Basin and tap piercing the domes
for washing
Cağaloğlu Baths The soğukluk (intermediate

The opulent, 18th-century room) is a temperate passage
In the hararet (hot room),
between the changing room
Turkish baths at Cağaloğlu have the main room of the Turkish
and the hararet. You will be
separate, identical sections for given dry towels here on your
bath, you are permitted to
men and women. The men’s sit and sweat in the steam
way back to the camekan.
for as long as you like.
section is shown here.
The Exfoliating Body Scrub
In between steaming, you (or
the staff at the baths) scrub
your body briskly with a coarse,
soapy mitt (kese).
The Body Massage

A marble plinth (göbek taşı) occupies
the centre of the hot room. This
is where you will have your
pummelling full-body massage.
SULTANAHMET
Two of the city’s most significant monuments centuries and is now a museum. A square
face each other across gardens, known as next to the Blue Mosque marks the site of the
Sultanahmet Square. The Blue Mosque was Hippodrome, a chariot-racing stadium built
built by Sultan Ahmet I, from whom this part by the Romans in about AD 200. On the other
of the city gets its name. Opposite is Haghia side of the Blue Mosque, the city slopes
Sophia, an outstanding example of early down to the Sea of Marmara in a jumble of
Byzantine architecture. It is still regarded as alleyways. Traditional-style Ottoman houses
one of the world’s most remarkable churches, have been built over the remains of the Great
although it served as a mosque for several Palace of the Byzantine emperors.
Sights at a Glance
Mosques and Churches Historic Buildings
1 Haghia Sophia pp86–7 and Monuments
7 Blue Mosque pp92–3 2 Basilica Cistern
r Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque 5 Baths of Roxelana
t Church of SS Sergius q Cistern of 1,001 Columns
and Bacchus w Tomb of Sultan Mahmut II
Museums e Constantine’s Column
y Bucoleon Palace
4 Carpet Museum
See also Street Finder
6 Mosaic Museum
map 5
8 Museum of Turkish and
Islamic Arts
0 Marmara University Museum
of the Republic 0 metres 250
Squares and Courtyards 0 yards 250
3 Istanbul Crafts Centre
9 Hippodrome
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The minarets of Istanbul’s Blue Mosque For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Sultanahmet Square

Two of Istanbul’s most venerable monuments, the Blue
Mosque and Haghia Sophia, face each other across a
leafy square, informally known as Sultanahmet Square
(Sultanahmet Meydanı), next to the Hippodrome of
Byzantium. Also in this fascinating historic quarter are
a handful of museums, including the Mosaic Museum,
built over part of the old Byzantine Great Palace
(see pp96–7), and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic
Arts. Look out for street vendors pushing smart
Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I
red handcarts, and hawking boiled sweet corn and Stunning 17th-century İznik tiles
roast chestnuts. (see p165) adorn the inside of this tomb,
which is part of the outer complex of
the Blue Mosque.
Sultanahmet tram stop
7 . Blue Mosque Firuz Ağa

Towering above Mosque
Sultanahmet Square are
the six beautiful Fountain of Dİ
minarets of this world- Kaiser VA
N
famous mosque. It was Wilhelm II
built in the early 17th
century for Ahmet I.
Egyptian
8 Museum of Turkish Obelisk
and Islamic Arts
Tents and rugs used by Turkey’s K
nomadic peoples are included in O
S
I
this impressive collection. A
N
D
Y
E
M
Key A
T
Suggested route K
O
S
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A
Serpentine Y
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Column E
M
T
A
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V
U
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Brazen Column
H
A
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SO
K
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6 Mosaic Museum SO
Hunting scenes are one N
of the common subjects RU
TO
9 Hippodrome that can be seen in some
This stadium was the city’s focus of the mosaics from the
for more than 1,000 years before Great Palace.
it fell into ruin. Only a few
sections, such as the central line
of monuments, remain.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp330–31 and p346
S U LTA N A H M E T 85
2 . Basilica Cistern THE BAZAAR SERGALIO

QUARTER POINT
This marble Medusa head is one of two
classical column bases found in the
Basilica Cistern. The cavernous cistern
dates from the reign of Justinian I
(see p53) in the 6th century.
SULTANAHMET
A stone pilaster next to the Locator Map

remains of an Ottoman water See Street Finder map 5
tower is all that survives of the
Milion, a triumphal gateway. Carpet Museum
(see pp90–91)
K
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BA
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AN
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DD 1 . Haghia Sophia
F
CA
Y
UN The supreme church of

A
AY Byzantium is over 1,400

M
ÜM
E
H years old but has survived in

Y
BI
D
BA
a remarkably good state.
A
Inside it are several glorious

N
I
figurative mosaics.
M
İ
M
A
R
M
EHM
5 Baths of Roxelana
ET AĞA C
Sinan (see p105) designed

these beautiful baths in the
Yeşil Ev Hotel (see p330) mid-16th century. After
housing a carpet shop for
several years, the building
AD
reopened as a public
bathhouse in 2011.
3 Istanbul Crafts Centre

Visitors have a rare
opportunity here to observe
Turkish craftsmen practising
a range of skills.
Cavalry Bazaar
Eager salesmen will call you over to
peruse their wares – mainly carpets and
0 metres 75 handicrafts – in this bazaar. With two long
rows of shops on either side of a lane, the
0 yards 75
bazaar was once a stable yard.
1 Haghia Sophia
Ayasofya
The “church of holy wisdom”, Haghia Sophia
is among the world’s greatest architectural
achievements. More than 1,400 years old,
it stands as a testament to the sophistication
of the 6th-century Byzantine capital
and had a great influence
on architecture in the following
centuries. The vast edifice Print of Haghia Sophia from
the mid-19th century
was built over two earlier
churches and inaugurated
by Emperor Justinian in 537.
In the 15th century the
Ottomans converted it into a
mosque: the minarets, tombs
and fountains date from this
period. To help support the
structure’s great weight, the
exterior has been buttressed
on numerous occasions,
which has partly obscured
its original shape.
Byzantine Frieze
Among the ruins of the
monumental entrance
to the earlier Haghia
Sophia (dedicated in
AD 415) is this frieze
of sheep.
Historical Plan of
Haghia Sophia
Nothing remains of the first
4th-century church on this spot,
but there are traces of the second
one from the 5th century,
which burned down in AD 532. Entrance
Earthquakes have taken their toll on
the third structure, strengthened
and added to many times.
Key
5th-century church
6th-century church
Ottoman additions
. Nave VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Visitors cannot fail to be staggered
by this vast space, which is covered Practical Information
by a huge dome reaching to a Ayasofya Sultanahmet Meydanı 1.
height of 56 m (184 ft). Map 5 E4.Tel (0212) 522 17 50.
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–
Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
= 7 ground floor only.
Transport
v Sultanahmet.
. The Mosaics
The church’s splendid
Byzantine mosaics
include this one at
the end of the south
gallery. It depicts
Christ flanked by
Emperor Constantine IX
and his wife, the
Empress Zoe.
KEY
1 Buttress
2 Outer narthex
3 Inner narthex
4 Imperial Gate
5 The galleries were originally
used by women during services.
6 Kürsü (see p37).
7 Calligraphic roundel
8 Seraphims adorn the
pendentives at the base of the dome.
9 Sultan’s loge
0 Müezzin mahfili (see p36).
q The Coronation Square served
for the crowning of emperors.
Exit w Library of Sultan Mahmut I
e The Baptistry, part of the
6th-century church, now serves as
the tomb of two sultans.
r The mausoleum of Murat III
was used for his burial in 1599. Murat
had by that time sired 103 children.
. Ablutions Fountain t Mausoleum of Selim II, the
Built around 1740, oldest of the three mausoleums, was
this fountain is completed in 1577 to the plans of
an exquisite Sinan (see p105). Its interior is entirely
example of Turkish decorated with İznik tiles (see p165).
Rococo style. Its
projecting roof y Mausoleum of Mehmet III
is painted with u Brick minaret
floral reliefs.
Exploring Haghia Sophia

Designed as an earthly mirror of the heavens, the interior
of Haghia Sophia succeeds in imparting a truly celestial
feel. The artistic highlights are a number of glistening
figurative mosaics – remains of the decoration that once
covered the upper walls but which has otherwise mostly
disappeared. The remarkable works of Byzantine art
date from the 9th century or later, after the iconoclastic
era. Some of the patterned mosaic ceilings, however,
particularly those adorning the narthex and the
neighbouring Vestibule of the Warriors, are part
of the cathedral’s original 6th-century decoration.
when the church was

Ground Floor converted into a mosque.
The first of the surviving The mihrab 2, the niche Interior as it looked after restoration in the
Byzantine mosaics can be seen indicating the direction of 19th century
over the Imperial Gate. This is Mecca, was installed in the
now the public entrance into the apse of the church directly these is adjacent to the minbar.
church, although previously opposite the entrance. The The patterned marble
only the emperor and his sultan’s loge 3, on the left of coronation square 6 next to it
entourage were allowed to the mihrab as you face it, was marks the supposed site of the
pass through it. The mosaic built by the Fossati brothers. Byzantine emperor’s throne, or
shows Christ on a throne with These Italian-Swiss architects omphalos (centre of the world).
an emperor kneeling beside undertook a major restoration Nearby, in the south aisle, is the
him 1 and has been dated of Haghia Sophia for Sultan library of Mahmut I 7, which
to between 886 and 912. Abdül Mecit in 1847–9. was built in 1739 and is entered
The emperor is thought To the right of the mihrab is by a decorative bronze door.
to be Leo VI, the Wise. the minbar 4, or pulpit, which Across the nave, between
The most conspicuous was installed by Murat III two columns, is the 17th-
features at ground level in the (1574–95). He also erected four century marble preacher’s
nave are those added by the müezzin mahfilis 5, marble throne 8, the contribution of
Ottoman sultans after the platforms for readers of the Murat IV (1623–40). Behind it
conquest of Istanbul in 1453, Koran (see p36). The largest of is one of several maqsuras 9.
These low, fenced platforms
Floorplan of Haghia Sophia were placed beside walls
Apse and pillars to provide places
Key for elders to sit, listen and
Upper walls and domes read the Koran.
In the northwestern and
Galleries Upper walls western corners of the church
Ground floor and domes are two marble urns 0,
thought to date from the
North Hellenistic or early Byzantine
gallery period. A rectangular pillar
behind one of the urns, the
West South pillar of St Gregory the
gallery gallery Miracle-Worker q, is believed
Ramp to Apse to have healing powers. As you
gallery leave the church you pass
through the Vestibule of the
Warriors, so called because
the emperor’s bodyguards
would wait here for him
when he came to worship. Look
behind you as you enter it at
Nave
the wonderful mosaic of the
Virgin with Constantine and
Entrance Justinian w above the door.
Vestibule of
Narthex It shows Mary seated on a
Outer narthex the Warriors
throne holding the infant
Jesus and flanked by two of marking the location of

the greatest emperors of the the Byzantine Empress’s
city. Constantine, on her right, throne r.
presents her with the city of There is much more to
Constantinople, while Justinian see in the south gallery.
offers her Haghia Sophia. This You begin by passing
was made long after either of through the so-called
these two emperors lived, Gates of Heaven and Hell
probably in the 10th century, t, a marble doorway
during the reign of Basil II of which little is known
(see p56). Visitors exit the church except that it predates
by the door that was once the Ottoman conquest.
reserved for the emperor, due Around the corner to
to its proximity to the Great the right after passing
Palace (see pp96–7). through this doorway is
the Deësis Mosaic y
showing the Virgin Mary
and John the Baptist with
Christ Pantocrator (the
All-Powerful). Set into
the floor opposite it is Mosaic depicting the archangel Gabriel, adorning the
the tomb of Enrico lower wall of the apse
Dandalo, the Doge of
Venice responsible for the
sacking of Constantinople Upper Walls and Domes
in 1204 (see p57). The apse is dominated by a large
In the last bay of the south and striking mosaic showing
gallery there are two more the Virgin with the infant Jesus
mosaics. The right-hand on her lap p. Two other mosaics
one of these is of the Virgin in the apse depict the archangels
holding Christ, flanked by Gabriel a and, opposite him,
Emperor John II Comnenus Michael, but only fragments
and Empress Irene u. of the latter now remain. The
Figure of Christ, detail from the Deësis The other shows Christ with unveiling of these mosaics
Mosaic in the south gallery Emperor Constantine IX on Easter Sunday 867 was a
Monomachus and Empress triumphal event celebrating
Zoe i. The faces of the victory over the iconoclasts.
Galleries emperor and empress have Three mosaic portraits of
A ramp leads from the ground been altered. saints s adorn niches in the
floor to the north gallery. Here, Eight wooden plaques o north tympanum and are visible
on the eastern side of the great bearing calligraphic inscriptions from the south gallery and the
northwest pier, you will find hang over the nave at the level nave. From left to right they
the 10th-century mosaic of of the gallery. An addition of depict: St Ignatius the Younger,
Emperor Alexander holding a the Fossati brothers, they bear St John Chrysostom and
skull e. On the west face of the the names of Allah, the Prophet St Ignatius Theophorus.
same pier is a medieval drawing Mohammed, the first four In the four pendentives (the
of a galleon in full sail. The only caliphs and Hasan and Hussein, triangular, concave areas at the
point of interest in the west two of the Prophet’s grandsons base of the dome) are mosaics
gallery is a green marble disk who are revered as martyrs. of six-winged seraphim d.
The ones in the east
pendentives date from 1346
to 1355, but may be copies of
much older ones. Those on the
west side are 19th-century
imitations that were added by
the Fossati brothers.
The great dome f itself
is decorated with Koranic
inscriptions. It was once covered
in golden mosaic and the tinkling
sound of pieces dropping
to the ground was familiar to
visitors until the building’s
Mosaic of the Virgin with Emperor John II Comnenus and Empress Irene 19th-century restoration.
3 Istanbul Crafts
Centre
Istanbul El Sanatları Çarşısı
Kabasakal Cad 5, Sultanahmet.
Map 5 E4. Tel (0212) 517 67 84.
v Adliye. Open 9am–5pm daily.
If you are interested in Turkish

craftwork, this former Koranic
college is worth a visit. You can
watch skilled artisans at work: they
may be binding a book, executing
an elegant piece of calligraphy
or painting glaze onto ceramics.
All the pieces that are produced
here are for sale. Other good
buys include exquisite dolls,
meerschaum pipes and jewellery
based on Ottoman designs.
Next door is the Yeşil Ev Hotel
(see p330), a restored Ottoman
building with a pleasant café in
its courtyard.
4 Carpet Museum
Halı Müzesi
Bab-ı-Hϋmayan Caddesi.
The cavernous interior of the Byzantine Basilica Cistern
Map 5 E4. Tel (0212) 512 69 93.
vGϋlhane ort Sultanahmet.
2 Basilica Cistern rest having been bricked up Open 9am–noon, 1–5pm Mon–Fri.
Yerebatan Sarnıcı in the 19th century. ∑ halimuzesi.com
In the far left-hand corner
13 Yerebatan Cad, Sultanahmet. One of Turkey's finest collections
Map 5 E4. Tel (0212) 522 12 59. v
two columns rest on Medusa
head bases. These bases are of carpets and flat-weave rugs is
Sultanahmet. Open 9am–7pm daily.
evidence of plundering by the housed in the İmaret building, the
& ∑ yerebatan.com
Byzantines from earlier monu- mosque's former soup kitchens.
This vast underground water ments. They are thought to The collection includes pieces
cistern, a beautiful piece of mark a nymphaeum, a shrine weaved throughout Anatolia
Byzantine engineering, is the to the water nymphs. between 14th and 20th centuries.
most unusual tourist attraction
in the city. Although there may
have been an earlier, smaller Roxelana
cistern here, this cavernous vault Süleyman the Magnificent’s
was laid out under Justinian in power-hungry wife Roxelana
532, mainly to satisfy the (1500–58, Haseki Hürrem in
growing demands of the Great Turkish), rose from being a
Palace (see pp96–7) on the other concubine in the imperial harem
side of the Hippodrome (see p94). to become his chief wife, or first
For a century after the conquest kadın (see p75). Thought to be
(see p58), the Ottomans did not of Russian origin, she was also
the first consort permitted
know of the cistern’s existence.
to reside within the walls of
It was rediscovered after people
Topkapı Palace (see pp72–5).
were found to be collecting
Roxelana would stop at
water, and even fish, by
nothing to get her own
lowering buckets through holes
way. When Süleyman’s grand
in their basements.
vizier and friend from youth,
Visitors tread walkways to the
İbrahim Paşa, became a threat to her position, she persuaded
mixed sounds of classical music
the sultan to have him strangled. Much later, Roxelana
and dripping water. The cistern’s
performed her coup de grâce. In 1553 she persuaded
roof is held up by 336 columns,
Süleyman to have his handsome and popular heir, Mustafa,
each over 8 m (26 ft) high. Only
murdered by deaf mutes to clear the way for her own son,
about two-thirds of the original
Selim, to inherit the throne.
structure is visible today, the
The Baths of Roxelana 8 Museum of

functioned as a public bath- Turkish and
house for more than 350 years,
until 1910. After their closure, Islamic Arts
they continued to be used for Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi
various purposes, including as Atmeydanı Sok, Sultanahmet.
a coal and fuel store and as a Map 5 D4. Tel (0212) 518 18 05 or 518
government-run carpet shop. 18 06. v Sultanahmet. Open Apr–
Following a programme of Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm
renovation to restore the baths Tue–Sun. &
to their original function, the
building was reopened to Over 40,000 items are on
the public as a bathhouse. display in the former palace
of İbrahim Paşa (c.1493–1536),
the most gifted of Süleyman’s
The exterior of the 16th-century Baths 6 Mosaic Museum many grand viziers. Paşa married
of Roxelana Mozaik Müzesi Süleyman’s sister when the sultan
came to the throne. The
The first gallery is dedicated to Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet.
collection was begun in the 19th
carpets from the Seljuk Empire, Map 5 E5. Tel (0212) 518 12 05.
v Sultanahmet. Open Apr–Oct:
century and ranges from the
the second gallery displays earliest period of Islam, under the
carpets produced during the 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun. & Omayyad caliphate (661–750),
height of the Ottoman Empire, through to modern times.
and the third gallery shows more Located near Arasta Bazaar, Each room concentrates on
recent carpets and prayer rugs among a warren of small shops, a different chronological period
from Uşak. this museum was created or geographical area of the
simply by roofing over a part of Islamic world, with detailed
the Great Palace of the explanations in both Turkish
5 Baths of Roxelana Byzantine Emperors (see pp96–7), and English. The museum is
Haseki Hürrem Hamamı which was discovered in the particularly renowned for its
1930s. In its heyday the palace collection of rugs. These range
Ayasofya Meydanı, Sultanahmet.
boasted hundreds of rooms, from 13th-century Seljuk
Map 5 E4. Tel (0212) 638 00 35.
v Sultanahmet. Open 8:30am–
many of them glittering with fragments to the palatial
5:30pm daily (to 6:30pm summer). gold mosaics. Persian silks that cover the
= ∑ ayasofyahamami.com The surviving mosaic has walls from floor to ceiling in
a surface area of 1,872 sq m the palace’s great hall.
These baths, also known as (1,969 sq ft), making it one of On the ground floor, an
Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan the largest preserved mosaics ethnographic section focuses
Hamam, were built in 1556 in Europe. It is thought to have on the lifestyles of different
for Süleyman the Magnificent been created by an imperial Turkish peoples, particularly the
(see p59) by Sinan (see p105), workshop that employed the nomads of central and eastern
and are named after Roxelana, best craftsmen from across Anatolia. The exhibits include
the sultan’s wife. They were the Empire under the guidance recreations of a round felt yurt
designated for the use of the of a master artist. In terms (Turkic nomadic tent) and a
congregation of Haghia Sophia of imagery, the mosaic is traditional brown tent.
(see pp86–7) when it was used particularly diverse, with many
as a mosque. With the women’s different landscapes depicted,
entrance at one end of the including domestic and pastoral
building and the men’s at the episodes, such as herdsmen
other, their absolute symmetry with their grazing animals,
makes them perhaps the most as well as hunting and
handsome baths in the city. fighting scenes.
Each end of the baths starts The mosaic is thought to
with a camekan, a massive have adorned the colonnade
domed hall that would originally leading from the royal
have been centred on a fountain. apartments to the imperial
Next is a small soğukluk, or inter- enclosure beside the
mediate room, which opens Hippodrome, and dates from
into a hararet, or steam room. the late 5th century AD.
The hexagonal massage slab in
each hararet, the göbek taşı, is
inlaid with coloured marbles, 7 Blue Mosque
indicating that the baths are of Recreated yurt interior, Museum of Turkish
See pp92–3.
imperial origin. and Islamic Arts
7 Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmet Camii
The Blue Mosque, which takes its name
from the mainly blue İznik tilework
(see p165) decorating its interior, is
one of the most famous religious
buildings in the world. Serene at
any time, its minarets circled by
keening seagulls, it is at its most
magical when floodlit at night.
Sultan Ahmet I commissioned
the mosque during a period of A 19th-century engraving showing the Blue Mosque
declining Ottoman fortunes, and viewed from the Hippodrome (see p94)
it was built between 1609 and
1616 by Mehmet Ağa, the
imperial architect. The splendour
of the plans provoked great
hostility at the time, because
a mosque with six minarets
was considered a sacrilegious
attempt to rival the architecture
of Mecca.
KEY
1 Imperial Pavilion
2 The loge (see p37) accommo-
dated the sultan and his entourage
during mosque services.
3 Mihrab
4 Prayer hall
5 The 17th-century Minbar is
intricately carved in white marble.
It is used by the imam during prayers Exit for tourists
on Friday (see p36).
6 Thick piers support the weight
of the dome.
7 Müezzin mahfili (see p36).
Entrance to
8 Originally, over 250 windows
courtyard
allowed light to flood into
the mosque.
9 The courtyard covers an area . İznik Tiles
the same size as the prayer hall, No cost was spared in
balancing the whole building. the decoration. The tiles
0 Each minaret has two or were made at the peak
three balconies. of tile production in
İznik (see p165).
. Inside of the Dome VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Mesmeric designs employing flowing
arabesques are painted onto the Practical Information
interior of the mosque’s domes and Meydanı 21. Map 5 E5.
semidomes. The windows which pierce Tel (0212) 518 13 19.
the domes no longer have their original ∑ sultanahmetcami.org
17th-century stained glass. Open 9am–5pm daily.
Closed prayer times and Fri
afternoons.
Transport
v Sultanahmet.
. View of the Domes

The graceful cascade of
domes and semidomes
makes a striking sight
when viewed from
the courtyard below. . Ablutions Fountain
The hexagonal şadırvan
is now purely ornamental
Entrance since ritual ablutions are
no longer carried out at
this fountain.
Exit to
Hippodrome
Washing the Feet

The Muslim’s ritual ablutions
conclude with the washing of
the feet (see p37). Taps outside
the mosque are used by the
faithful for this purpose.
Another obelisk still standing,

but of unknown date, is usually
referred to as the Column of
Constantine Porphyrogenitus,
after the emperor who restored
it in the 10th century AD. Its dila-
pidated state owes much to the
fact that young Janissaries
(see p60) would routinely scale
it as a test of their bravery.
The only other structure in
the Hippodrome is a domed
fountain, which commemorates
the visit of Kaiser Wilhelm II
to Istanbul in 1898.
The Hippodrome was the
scene of one of the bloodiest
events in Istanbul’s history. In 532
a brawl between rival chariot-
racing teams developed into
the Nika Revolt, during which
much of the city was destroyed.
The end of the revolt came when
an army of mercenaries, under
the command of Justinian’s
general Belisarius, massacred
an estimated 30,000 people
trapped in the Hippodrome.
Egyptian Obelisk and the Column of Constantine Porphyrogenitus
0 Marmara
9 Hippodrome You can also make out some
At Meydanı of the arches of the sphendone University Museum
Sultanahmet. Map 5 E4.
(the curved end of the of the Republic
v Sultanahmet. Hippodrome) by walking a Cumhuriyet Müzesi
few steps down İbret Sokağı.
Little is left of the gigantic Constantine adorned the spina, Atmeydanı Sok 1, Sultanahmet.
the central line of the stadium, Map 5 D5. Tel (0212) 518 16 00.
stadium which once stood at
v Sultanahmet. Open 10am–6pm
the heart of the Byzantine city with obelisks and columns from
Tue–Sun.
of Constantinople (see pp54–5). Ancient Egypt and Greece.
It was originally laid out by Conspicuous by its absence is This fine art collection run by
Emperor Septimus Severus the column, which once stood Marmara University includes
during his rebuilding of the city on the spot where the tourist works by more than 85 artists
in the 3rd century information office from Turkey and around the
AD. Emperor is located. This world. The museum started in
Constantine I was topped by four 1973 as an etching exhibition
(see p53) enlarged bronze horses which held to celebrate 50 years of
the Hippodrome were pillaged during Turkey as a republic. Today,
and connected its the Fourth Crusade print, painting, calligraphy and
kathisma, or royal (see p56) and taken other traditional Turkish art
box, to the nearby to St Mark’s in forms are part of the collection.
Great Palace Venice. Three
(see pp96–7). It is Relief carved on the base of the ancient monu-
thought that the Egyptian Obelisk ments remain, q Cistern of
stadium held up to however. The 1,001 Columns
100,000 people. The site is now Egyptian Obelisk, which was Binbirdirek Sarnıcı
an elongated public garden, built in 1500 BC, stood outside
Klodfarer Cad, Sultanahmet.
At Meydanı, the Square of the Luxor until Constantine had it
Map 5 D4. v Çemberlitaş.
Horses. There are, however, brought to his city. This carved
enough remains of the monument is probably only This cistern dates back to
Hippodrome to get a sense one third of its original height. around the 4th century AD, and
of its scale and importance. Next to it is the Serpentine was second in size only to the
The road running around the Column, believed to date from nearby Basilica Cistern (see p90).
square almost directly follows the 479 BC, which was shipped It was also known as the Cistern
line of the chariot racing track. here from Delphi. of Philoxenus and measured
Ceremonies in the Palace of İbrahim Paşa (Museum of

Hippodrome Sultan Murat III Turkish and Islamic Arts, see p167)
Beginning with the inauguration
of Constantinople on 11 May 330
(see p53), the Hippodrome
formed the stage for the city’s
greatest public events for the
next 1,300 years. The Byzantines’
most popular pastime was
watching chariot racing in the
stadium. Even after the
Hippodrome fell into ruins
following the Ottoman conquest
of Istanbul (see pp58–9), it
continued to be used for great
public occasions. This 16th-
century illustration depicts
Murat III watching the 52-day-
long festivities staged for the
circumcision of his son
Mehmet. All the guilds of
Istanbul paraded before the Column of Constantine Serpentine Egyptian
Sultan displaying their crafts. Porphyrogenitus Column Obelisk
64 m (210 ft) by 56 m (184 ft). e Constantine’s (the Hooped Column) in Turkish.

It could hold enough water to Column In English it is sometimes
supply a population of 360,000 referred to as the Burned Column
Çemberlitaş
for about 10 days. because it was damaged by
The herringbone brick roof Yeniçeriler Cad, Çemberlitaş. several fires, especially one in
vaults are supported by 264 Map 5 D4. v Çemberlitaş. 1779 which decimated the
marble columns – the 1,001 Çemberlitaş Baths: Vezirhanı Cad 8. Grand Bazaar (see pp108–9).
columns of its name is poetic Tel (0212) 522 79 74. A variety of fantastical holy
Open 6am–midnight daily.
exaggeration. Interestingly, due to relics were supposedly entombed
∑ cemberlitas hamami.com
its dampness, the cistern building in the base of the column, which
proved to provide the ideal has since been encased in
atmosphere for the silk weaving This 35 m- (115 ft-) high stone to strengthen it. These
process and, for many decades, column was constructed included the axe which
it was used by Istanbul’s silk in AD 330 as part of the Noah used to build the ark,
weavers as a workplace. celebrations to inaugurate Mary Magdalene’s flask of
the new Byzantine capital anointing oil, and remains
(see p53). It once dominated of the loaves of bread
w Tomb of Sultan the magnificent Forum with which Christ fed
Mahmut II of Constantine. the multitude. Next to
Mahmut II Türbesi Made of porphyry brought Constantine’s Column,
from Heliopolis in Egypt, it on the corner of Divanyolu
Divanyolu Cad, Çemberlitaş.
was originally surmounted Caddesi, stand the
Map 5 D4. v Çemberlitaş. Open
by a Corinthian capital Çemberlitaş Baths. This
9:30am–4:30pm daily.
bearing a statue of Emperor splendid hamam complex
This large octagonal mausoleum Constantine dressed as (see p81) was commissioned
is in the Empire style (modelled Apollo. This was brought by Nur Banu, wife of
on Roman architecture), made down in a storm in 1106. Sultan Selim II, and built
popular by Napoleon. It was built Although what is left is in 1584 to a plan by the
in 1838, the year before Sultan relatively unimpressive, great Sinan (see p105).
Mahmut II’s death and is shared it has been carefully The original women’s
by sultans Mahmut II, Abdül preserved. In the year section no longer
Aziz and Abdül Hamit II (see 416 the 10 stone survives, but the
p61). Within, Corinthian pilasters drums making up baths still have
divide up walls which groan the column were separate facilities
with symbols of prosperity reinforced with Constantine’s Column for men and
and victory. The huge tomb metal rings. These women. The staff
dominates a cemetery that has were renewed in 1701 by Sultan are used to foreign visitors, so
beautiful headstones, a fountain Mustafa III, and consequently the this is a good place for your first
and, at the far end, a good café. column is known as Çemberlitaş experience of a Turkish bath.
r Sokollu Mehmet
Paşa Mosque
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii
Şehit Çeşmesi Sok, Sultanahmet.
Map 5 D5. Tel (0212) 518 16 33.
v Çemberlitaş or Sultanahmet.
Open daily. Closed prayer times.
& donation.
Built by the architect Sinan

(see p105) in 1571–2, this
mosque was commissioned
by Sokollu Mehmet Paşa,
grand vizier to Selim II. The
simplicity of Sinan’s design
solution for the mosque’s
sloping site has been widely
admired. A steep entrance The Byzantine Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus, now a mosque
stairway leads up to the mosque
courtyard from the street, t Church of SS with his empress, Theodora, at
passing beneath the teaching Sergius and Bacchus the beginning of his long reign.
hall of its medrese (see p36). Küçük Ayasofya Camii Ingenious and highly decorative,
Only the tiled lunettes above the church gives a somewhat
Küçük Ayasofya Cad. Map 5 D5.
the windows in the portico v Çemberlitaş or Sultanahmet.
higgledy-piggledy impression
give a hint of the jewelled Open daily. Closed prayer times.7
both inside and out and is one
mosque interior to come. of the most charming of all the
Inside, the far wall around Commonly referred to as “Little city’s architectural treasures.
the carved mihrab is entirely Haghia Sophia”, this church was Inside, an irregular octagon
covered in İznik tiles (see p165) built in 527, a few years before of columns on two floors
of a sumptuous green-blue its namesake (see pp86–7). supports a broad central dome
hue. This tile panel, designed It too was founded by Emperor composed of 16 vaults. The
specifically for the space, is Justinian (see pp54–5), together mosaic decoration, which once
complemented by six stained-
glass windows. The “hat” of the
minbar is covered with the same
Reconstruction of the Great Palace
tiles. Most of the mosque’s other In Byzantine times, present-day Sultanahmet
walls are of plain stone, but they was the site of the Great Palace, which, in
are enlivened by a few more tile its heyday, had no equal in Europe and
panels. Set into the wall over the dazzled medieval visitors with its opulence. The Mese was a
This great complex of buildings – including colonnaded street lined
entrance there is a small piece with shops and statuary.
of greenish stone, which is royal apartments, state rooms, churches,
courtyards and gardens – extended over Hippodrome
supposedly from the Kaaba,
a sloping, terraced site from the Hippodrome (see p94)
the holy stone at the centre
to the imperial harbour on the shore of
of Mecca. the Sea of Marmara. The palace was built
in stages, beginning under Constantine in Hormisdas
the 4th century. It was enlarged by Justinian Palace
following the fire caused by the Nika
Revolt in 532. Later emperors, especially
the 9th-century Basil I, extended it further.
After several hundred years of occupation,
it was finally abandoned in the second
half of the 13th century in favour
of Blachernae Palace.
Church of SS Peter
and Paul
Interior of the 16th-century Sokollu Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus

Mehmet Paşa Mosque
adorned some of the walls, y Bucoleon Palace all that now survives of the
has long since crumbled away. Bukoleon Sarayı Bucoleon Palace, a maritime
However, the green and red residence that formed part
Kennedy Cad, Sultanahmet.
marble columns, the delicate of the sprawling Great Palace.
Map 5 E5. v Sultanahmet.
tracery of the capitals and The waters of a small private
the carved frieze above the Finding the site of what harbour lapped right up to the
columns are original features remains of the Great Palace palace and a private flight of
of the church. of the Byzantine emperors steps led down into the water,
The inscription on this frieze, requires precision. It is not allowing the emperor to board
in boldly carved Greek script, advisable to visit the ruins imperial caïques. The ruined
mentions the founders of the alone as they are sometimes tower just east of the palace
church and St Sergius, but not frequented by tramps. was a lighthouse, called the
St Bacchus. The two saints were Take the path under Pharos, in Byzantine times.
Roman centurions who the railway from the
converted to Christianity and Church of SS Sergius
were martyred. Justinian and Bacchus, turn left
credited them with saving his and walk beside
life when, as a young man, he Kennedy Caddesi, the
was implicated in a plot to kill main road along the
his uncle, Justin I. The saints shore of the Sea of
supposedly appeared to Justin Marmara, for about
in a dream and told him to 400 m (440 yards).
release his nephew. This will bring you to
The Church of SS Sergius and a stretch of the ancient
Bacchus was built between two sea walls, constructed
important edifices to which it to protect the city from
was connected, the Palace of a naval assault. Within
Hormisdas and the Church of SS these walls you will find
Peter and Paul, but has outlived a creeper-clad section
them both. After the conquest of stonework pierced
of Istanbul in 1453 (see p58), it by three vast windows Wall of Bucoleon Palace, the only part of the
was converted into a mosque. framed in marble. This is Byzantine Great Palace still standing
The Kathisma was The Milion was Haghia Sophia The Augusteum was a
the imperial box of the point from (see pp86–7) porticoed public square.
the Hippodrome. which road distances
were measured. The Chalke Gate
was the main
entrance to
the palace.
Hall of Gold (site of the Lighthouse Magnaura

Mosaic Museum, see p91) Palace
The Bucoleon Palace had The Nea Ekklesia, erected by
a magnificent façade Basil I, set the style for all
Daphne Palace looking out over the sea. subsequent Byzantine churches.
THE BAZAAR QUARTER

Trade has always been important in a With its seemingly limitless range of
city straddling the continents of Asia and goods, the labyrinthine Grand Bazaar is
Europe. Nowhere is this more evident at the centre of all this commercial activity.
than in the warren of streets lying between The Egyptian Bazaar is equally colourful
the Grand Bazaar and Galata Bridge. but smaller and more manageable.
Everywhere, goods tumble out of shops Up on the hill, next to the university,
onto the pavement. Look through any of is Süleymaniye Mosque, a glorious
the archways in between shops and you will expression of 16th-century Ottoman
discover courtyards or hans (see pp28–9) culture. It is just one of numerous
containing feverishly industrious workshops. beautiful mosques in this area.
Sights at a Glance
Mosques and Churches Museums and Monuments
1 New Mosque 9 Forum of Theodosius
3 Rüstem Paşa Mosque Squares and Courtyards
5 Sülemaniye Mosque pp104–5
0 Beyazıt Square
6 Prince’s Mosque
r Çorlulu Ali Paşa Courtyard
7 Kalenderhane Mosque
8 Tulip Mosque
Waterways
Bazaars, Hans and Shops 4 Golden Horn
2 Egyptian Bazaar
q Book Bazaar maps 4 and 5
w Valide Han
e Grand Bazaar pp108–9
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Colourful spices arranged on a stall at the Egyptian Bazaar For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around the Egyptian Bazaar

The narrow streets around the Egyptian Bazaar encapsulate
the spirit of old Istanbul. From here, buses, taxis and trams
head off across the Galata Bridge and into the interior of
the city. The blast of ships’ horns signals the departure of
ferries from Eminönü to Asian Istanbul. It is the quarter’s
shops and markets, though, that are the focus of attention
for the eager shoppers who crowd the Egyptian Bazaar
and the streets around it, sometimes breaking for a
leisurely tea beneath the trees in its courtyard. Across the
way, and entirely aloof from the bustle, rise the domes of
the New Mosque. On one of the commercial alleyways that
3 . Rüstem Paşa Mosque
radiate out from the mosque, an inconspicuous doorway The interior of this secluded
leads up stairs to the terrace of the serene, tile-covered mosque is a brilliant pattern-
Rüstem Paşa Mosque. book made of İznik tiles
(see p165) of the finest quality.
KU The pastırma shop

TU at 11 Hasırcılar Caddesi
CU
LA sells thin slices of
R dried beef, spiced
CA
D with fenugreek –
Tahtakale a Turkish delicacy.
Hamamı
Çarşısı, now
D
A
a bazaar, was
C
formerly a
ŞI
Turkish bath.
R
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Kurukahveci
Mehmet Efendi is
one of Istanbul’s oldest
and most popular coffee
T
A
shops. You can drink

H
your coffee on the

T
A
premises or buy a
K
SO
A
packet to take
L
E
away with you.

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A
A
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SA
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UC
CU
LA
R
0 metres 75 Stall holders and street

0 yards 75
traders, such as this man selling
garlic, ply their wares in Sabuncuhanı
Sokağı and the narrow streets
around the Egyptian Bazaar.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p331 and pp346–7
THE BAZAAR QUARTER 101
G
ol
de
n
Ho
rn
THE BAZAAR
QUARTER
SULTANAHMET
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 4 and 5
Eminönü is the port from which ferries depart to many destinations
and also for trips along the Bosphorus (see pp130–31). It bustles with
activity as traders compete to sell drinks and snacks.
The Royal Pavilion, a suite of

beautifully tiled private rooms, is
Galata linked by a passage to the sultan’s
Bridge loge inside the New Mosque.
Eminönü
sea bus boarding point
E
B
Ş
A
D
IY Eminönü
E
CA
tram stop
D
D
A
C
İS
M
H
C
TA
A
M
İ
M
E
Y
D
A
N
1 . New Mosque
I
S
O
This mosque, which dominates

K
the Eminönü waterfront, was

completed in the 17th century by
the mother of Sultan Mehmet IV.
Ç Cafés
IÇ
E
K
P
D
A
A
Z
A
C
R
I
İ
S Mausoleum of Turhan
M
O
A
K Hatice Valide Sultan,

C
mother of Mehmet IV
İ
EN
V
CA
D
Pet market and 2 . Egyptian Bazaar
garden centre This market was built in 1660 as
part of the New Mosque complex,
Key and it has always been associated
with the sale of spices, though
Suggested route
today there is much more on offer.
1 New Mosque
Yeni Cami
Yeni Cami Meydanı, Eminönü.
Map 5 D2. v Eminönü. Open daily.
Closed prayer times.
Situated at the southern end of

Galata Bridge, the New Mosque
is one of the most prominent
mosques in the city. It dates from
the time when a few women A selection of nuts and seeds for sale in the Egyptian Bazaar
from the harem became
powerful enough to dictate the 2 Egyptian Bazaar can be found in the Egyptian
policies of the Ottoman sultans. Mısır Çarşısı Bazaar, from household goods,
The mosque was started in toys and clothes to exotic
Cami Meydanı Sok. Map 5 D2.
1597 by Safiye, mother of v Eminönü. Open 8am–7pm
aphrodisiacs. The square
Mehmet III, but building was daily. between the two arms of the
suspended on the sultan’s death bazaar is full of commercial
as his mother then lost her This cavernous, L-shaped activity, with cafés, and stalls
position. It was not completed market was built in the early selling plants and pets.
until 1663, after Turhan Hatice, 17th century as an extension
mother of Mehmet IV, had of the New Mosque complex.
taken up the project. Its revenues once helped
Though the mosque was maintain the mosque’s
built after the classical period philanthropic institutions.
of Ottoman architecture, it In Turkish the market is
shares many traits with earlier named the Mısır Çarşısı – the
imperial foundations, including Egyptian Bazaar – because it
a monumental courtyard. The was built with money paid as
mosque once had a hospital, duty on Egyptian imports. In
school and public baths. English it is also known as the Floral İznik tiles adorning the interior
The turquoise, blue and white Spice Bazaar. From medieval of Rüstem Paşa Mosque
floral tiles decorating the interior times spices were a vital and
are from İznik (see p165) and expensive part of cooking and 3 Rüstem Paşa
date from the mid-17th century, they became the market’s main
though by this time the quality produce. The bazaar came to Mosque
of the tiles produced there was specialize in spices from the Rüstem Paşa Camii
already in decline. More striking Orient, taking advantage of Hasırcılar Cad, Eminönü. Map 5 D2.
are the tiled lunettes and bold Istanbul’s site on the trade route v Eminönü. Open daily.
Koranic frieze decorating the between the East (where most Closed prayer times.
porch between the courtyard spices were grown) and Europe.
and the prayer hall. Stalls in the bazaar stock Raised above the busy shops
At the far left-hand corner of spices, herbs and other foods and warehouses around the
the upper gallery is the sultan’s such as honey, nuts, sweetmeats Egyptian Bazaar, this mosque
loge (see p37), which is linked and pastırma (dried beef ). was built in 1561 by the great
to his personal suite of rooms. Today’s expensive Eastern architect Sinan (see p105)
commodity, caviar, is also for Rüstem Paşa, son-in-law
available, the best variety of and grand vizier to
being Iranian. Nowadays Süleyman I (see p59).
an eclectic range of items The staggering wealth of
its decoration says something
about the amount of money that
the corrupt Rüstem managed to
salt away. Most of the interior
is covered in İznik tiles of the
highest quality. The four piers are
adorned with tiles of one design,
but the rest of the prayer hall is
a riot of different patterns, from
abstract to floral. Some of the
finest tiles can be found on
the galleries, making it the
most magnificently tiled
The New Mosque, a prominent feature on the Eminönü waterfront mosque in the city.
4 Golden Horn On Fridays you may notice

Haliç a crowd of women flocking
to another tomb within the
Map 4 C1. v Eminönü.
@ 55T, 99A. complex, that of Helvacı
Baba. This has been done
Often described as the world’s traditionally for over 400 years.
greatest natural harbour, the Helvacı Baba is said to
Golden Horn is a flooded river miraculously cure crippled
valley that flows southwest children, solve any fertility
into the Bosphorus. The estuary problems and find husbands
attracted settlers to its shores or accommodation for
in the 7th century BC and later those who beseech him.
enabled Constantinople to
become a rich and powerful
port. According to legend, the 7 Kalenderhane
Byzantines threw so many Mosque
valuables into it during the Kalenderhane Camii
Ottoman conquest (see p58) Dome of the Prince’s Mosque, Sinan’s first
16 Mart Şehitleri Cad, Saraçhane.
that the waters glistened with imperial mosque
Map 4 B3. v Üniversite.
gold. Today, numerous small  Vezneciler. Open prayer times only.
boats can be seen plying the imperial commission and was
upper reaches of the estuary. completed in 1548. The architect Sitting in the lee of the Valens
Spanning the mouth of the used a delightful decorative Aqueduct, on the site where
Horn is the Galata Bridge, which style in this mosque before a Roman bath once stood, is
joins Eminönü to Galata. The abandoning it in favour of the this Byzantine church with a
bridge, built in 1992, opens in classical austerity of his later chequered history. Built and
the middle to allow access for work. The mosque is approached rebuilt several times between
tall ships. It is a good place from through an elegant porticoed the 6th and 12th centuries, it
which to appreciate the inner courtyard, while the was converted into a mosque
complex geography of the city other institutions making up shortly after the conquest in
and admire the minaret-filled the mosque complex, including 1453 (see p58). The mosque
skyline. Fishermen’s boats a medrese (see p36), are enclosed is named after the Kalender
selling mackerel sandwiches are within an outer courtyard. brotherhood of dervishes,
usually moored at each end. The mosque’s interior is unusual which used the church as its
The present Galata Bridge and was something of an headquarters for some
replaced a pontoon bridge experiment: symmetrical, it has years after the conquest.
with a lower level of restaurants. a half-dome on all four sides. The building has the cruciform
The Old Galata Bridge has been The three tombs to the rear layout characteristic of Byzantine
reconstructed further up the of the mosque, belonging to churches of the period. Some of
Golden Horn, just south of the Şehzade Mehmet himself and the decoration remaining from
Rahmi Koç Museum. grand viziers İbrahim Paşa and its last incarnation, as the Church
Rüstem Paşa, are the finest in of Theotokos Kyriotissa (her
the city. Each has beautiful İznik Ladyship Mary, Mother of God),
5 Süleymaniye tiles (see p165) and original also survives in the prayer hall
Mosque stained glass. That of Şehzade with its marble panelling and
Mehmet also boasts the finest in the fragments of fresco in
See pp104–5. painted dome in Istanbul. the narthex (entrance hall).
6 Prince’s Mosque
Şehzade Camii
70 Şehzade Başı Cad, Saraçhane.
Map 4 B3. v Laleli.  Vezneciler.
Open daily. Tombs: Open 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun.
This mosque complex was

erected by Süleyman the
Magnificent (see p59) in memory
of his eldest son by Roxelana,
Şehzade (Prince) Mehmet,
who died of smallpox at the
age of 21. The building was
Sinan’s (see p105) first major A shaft of light illuminates the interior of Kalenderhane Mosque
5 Süleymaniye Mosque
Süleymaniye Camii
Istanbul’s most important mosque is both a tribute
to its architect, the great Sinan, and a fitting
memorial to its founder, Süleyman the Magnificent
(see p59). It was built above the Golden Horn in the
grounds of the old palace, Eski Saray, between 1550
and 1557. Like the city’s other imperial mosques, Courtyard
the Süleymaniye Mosque was not only a place of The ancient columns that
worship, but also a charitable foundation, or külliye surround the courtyard are said to
(see p36). The mosque is surrounded by its former have come originally from the
kathisma, the Byzantine royal box
hospital, soup kitchen, schools, kervanseray and in the Hippodrome (see p94).
bathhouse. This complex provided a welfare system
which fed over 1,000 of the city’s poor – Muslims,
Christians and Jews alike – every day.
Muvakkithane Gateway
The main courtyard entrance (now
closed) contained the rooms of
the mosque astronomer, who
determined prayer times.
KEY
1 Café in a sunken garden 7 The Tomb of Roxelana

2 The İmaret (kitchen) – now a
contains Süleyman’s beloved
restaurant – fed the city’s poor as Russian-born wife.
well as the mosque staff and their 8 Graveyard
families. The size of the millstone
9 These marble benches were
in its courtyard gives some idea used to support coffins before burial.
of the amount of grain needed
to feed everyone. 0 “Addicts Alley” is so called
because the cafés here once sold
3 İmaret Gate opium and hashish as well as
4 The kervansaray provided coffee and tea.
lodging and food for travellers
q The medreses to the south
and their animals. of the mosque house a library
5 Tomb of Sinan containing 110,000 manuscripts.
6 Minaret w Former hospital and asylum
. Mosque Interior VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A sense of soaring space
and calm strikes you as Practical Information
you enter the mosque. Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Cad, Faith.
The effect is enhanced Map 4 C3.
by the fact that the Tel (0212) 522 02 98.
height of the dome Open daily. Closed prayer times.
from the floor is exactly Seek permission for photos/
double its diameter, access to minarets. &
which is 26 m (85 ft).
Transport
v Beyazıt or Eminönü.
. Tomb of Süleyman
Ceramic stars said to be set
with emeralds sparkle
above the coffins of
Süleyman, his daughter
Mihrimah and two
of his successors,
Süleyman II and
Ahmet II.
Entrance
Sinan, the Imperial Architect

Like many of his eminent contemporaries, Koca Mimar
Sinan (c.1491–1588) was brought from Anatolia to
Istanbul in the devşirme, the annual roundup of talented
Christian youths, and educated at one of the elite palace
schools. He became a military engineer but won the eye
of Süleyman I, who made him chief imperial architect
in 1538. With the far-sighted patronage of the sultan,
Sinan – the closest Turkey gets to a Renaissance
architect – created masterpieces which demonstrated
his master’s status as the most magnificent of
Bust of the great monarchs. Sinan died aged 97, having built 131
architect Sinan mosques and 200 other buildings.
8 Tulip Mosque
Laleli Camii
Ordu Cad, Laleli. Map 4 B4. v Laleli.
 Vezneciler. Open prayer times only.
Built in 1759–63, this mosque

complex is the city’s best
example of the Baroque style,
of which its architect, Mehmet
Tahir Ağa, was the greatest
exponent. A variety of gaudy,
coloured marble covers all of its
sur faces. Underneath the body
of the mosque is a great hall,
supported on eight piers with
a fountain in the middle, used
as a market and packed with
Eastern Europeans and Central
Asians haggling over clothing.
The nearby Büyük Taş Hanı, or
Big Stone Han, probably part of
the mosque’s original complex
(see pp36–7), now houses shops
and a restaurant. To get to it,
turn left outside the mosque
into Fethi Bey Caddesi, and
take the second left into Çukur
Çeşme Sokağı. The main court- The Baroque Tulip Mosque, housing a marketplace in its basement
yard of the han is at the end
of a long passage off this lane. roasted. The huge columns, Two original timber towers were
decorated with a motif destroyed by fire. At one time
reminiscent of a peacock’s tail, you could climb to the top of
9 Forum of are particularly striking. When the tower, but it has been
Theodosius the forum became derelict closed to the public since 1972.
these columns were reused in On the square’s eastern side is
Ordu Cad, Beyazıt. Map 4 C4.
v Üniversite or Beyazıt. the city, some in the Basilica Beyazıt Mosque. Completed in
Cistern (see p90), and fragments 1506, it is the oldest surviving
The city of Constantinople (see from the forum were built into imperial mosque in the city.
pp54–5) was built around large Beyazıt Hamamı, a Turkish bath Behind the impressive outer
public squares or forums, the (see p81) further west down portal is a harmonious
largest of which stood on the Ordu Caddesi, now a bazaar. courtyard with an elegant
site of Beyazıt Square. It was domed fountain at its centre.
once known as the Forum Tauri The layout of its interior is
(Forum of the Bull) because of 0 Beyazıt Square heavily inspired by the design
the huge bronze bull in which Beyazıt Meydanı of Haghia Sophia (see pp86–7).
sacrificial animals, and
Ordu Cad, Beyazıt. Map 4 C4.
sometimes criminals, were v Beyazıt.
Always filled with crowds of

people and huge flocks of
pigeons, Beyazıt Square is the
most vibrant space in the old
part of the city. During the week
the square hosts a flea market,
with carpets (see pp366–7), silks
and general bric-a-brac on sale
and many cafés located
beneath shady plane trees.
On the northern side of the
square is the Moorish-style
gateway leading into Istanbul
University. Within the wooded
Peacock feather design on a column at the grounds rises Beyazıt Tower, a Beyazıt Tower, within the wooded grounds
Forum of Theodosius fire lookout point built in 1828. of Istanbul University
q Book Bazaar Mustafa II, the grand vizier

Sahaflar Çarşısı under Ahmet III.
Sahaflar Çarşısı Sok, Beyazıt.
The complex is entered from
Map 4 C4. v Üniversite. Yeniçeriler Caddesi by two
Open 8am–8pm daily. 7 alleyways. Several carpet shops
now inhabit the medrese and
This charming booksellers’ rugs are spread all around for
courtyard, on the site of prospective buyers. The carpet
the Byzantine book and shops share the medrese with
paper market, can be a kahve, a traditional café, which
entered either from Beyazıt is popular with locals and
Square or from inside the university students. It advertises
Grand Bazaar (see pp108–9). itself irresistibly as the
Early in the Ottoman Customers browsing in the Book Bazaar “Traditional Mystic Water Pipe
period (see pp58–9), printed (Sahaflar Çarşisi) and Erenler Tea Garden”, where
books were seen as a you can sit, drink tea and
corrupting influence and another impressive doorway. perhaps smoke a nargile (water
were banned in Turkey, so the This 1764 Baroque han has pipe), while deciding which
bazaar sold only manuscripts. three arcaded levels. In the carpet to buy (see pp366–7).
On 31 January 1729 İbrahim labyrinth of streets around the Situated across Bıleycıler
Müteferrika (1674–1745) hans, artisans are grouped Sokak, an alleyway off Çorlulu
produced the first printed according to their wares. Ali Paşa Courtyard, is the Koca
Turkish book, an Arabic Sinan Paşa tomb complex, the
dictionary, and today his bust courtyard of which is another
stands in the centre of the e Grand Bazaar tea garden. The charming
market. Book prices are fixed See pp108–9.
medrese, mausoleum and sebil
and cannot be haggled over. (a fountain where water was
handed out to passers-by) were
built in 1593 by Davut Ağa, who
r Çorlulu Ali Paşa
w Valide Han succeeded Sinan (see p105) as
Valide Hanı Courtyard chief architect of the empire.
Çorlulu Ali Paşa Külliyesi The tomb of Koca Sinan Paşa,
Junction of Çakmakçılar Yokuşu &
Yeniçeriler Cad, Beyazıt. Map 4 C4. grand vizier under Murat III
Tarakçılar Sok, Beyazıt. Map 4 C3.
v Beyazıt, then 10 mins’ walk. v Beyazıt. Open daily. and Mehmet III, is a striking
Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat. 16-sided structure.
Like many others in the city, Just off the other side of
If the Grand Bazaar (see pp108–9) the medrese (see p36) of this Yeniçeriler Caddesi is Gedik Paşa
seems large, it is sobering to mosque complex outside the Hamamı, probably the city’s
realize that it is only the covered Grand Bazaar has become oldest working Turkish baths (see
part of a huge area of seething the setting for a tranquil p81), built around 1475 for Gedik
commercial activity which outdoor café. It was built for Ahmet Paşa, grand vizier under
reaches all the way to the Çorlulu Ali Paşa, son-in-law of Mehmet the Conqueror (see p58).
Golden Horn. Most of the
manufacturing and trade takes
place in hans (see pp28–9)
hidden away from the street
behind shaded gateways.
The largest han in Istanbul is
Valide Han, built in 1651 by
Kösem, the mother of Sultan
Mehmet IV. You enter it from
Çakmakçılar Yokuşu through a
massive portal, pass through an
irregularly shaped forecourt,
and come out into a large
courtyard centring on a Shiite
mosque. This was built when
the han became the centre of
Persian trade in the city. The han
now throbs to the rhythm of
hundreds of weaving looms.
A short walk further down
Çakmakçılar Yokuşu is Büyük
Yeni Han, hidden behind Carpet shops in Çorlulu Ali Paşa Courtyard
e The Grand Bazaar Egyptian Bazaar (p102),

Valide Han (p107)
Kapalı Çarşı Örücüler Gate
Nothing can prepare you for the Grand Bazaar. This labyrinth
of streets covered by painted vaults is lined with thousands
of booth-like shops, whose wares spill out to tempt you
and whose shopkeepers are relentless in their quest
for a sale. The bazaar was established by Mehmet II
shortly after his conquest of the city A S TA R C I
HANI
in 1453 (see p58). It can be entered
by several gateways, two of the most
useful being Çarşıkapı Gate (from
Beyazıt tram stop) and Nuruosmaniye
Gate (from Nuruosmaniye Mosque).
It is easy to get lost in the bazaar
in spite of the signposting. Many of
İÇ C E B E C İ H A N
the bazaar’s goods are made behind
the scenes in secluded ateliers.
PERDAHÇILAR SOK
YA G L I K Ç I L A R S O K
CAD
ILAR
A NC
RG SOK
YO FLAR
K AVA
HACI H
ASAN
SOK
R SOK
ZENNECILE
The Rooftops of
TA K K
the Grand Bazaar

Cafés, restaurants, BODRUM HANI
OK
ECĺLE
toilets, banks, a post

CİLER S
D
office, a police station CA

R CAD
and a mosque serve L ER

S ÇI
those who work and
FERACE
FE
shop inside the bazaar.
ASI
ÇILAR B
Beyazıt Gate K A L PA K
Çadırcılar Caddesi, Book

Bazaar (see p107)
Havuzlu Lokanta is a Beyazıt

popular restaurant in tram stop
0 metres 40 the bazaar.
0 yards 40
Çarşıkapı
Gate
Marble Fountain
Şark Kahvesi Two copper and
This traditional marble fountains
Turkish café is a once provided
popular choice with the bazaar with
local bazaar traders. fresh water.
For additional map symbols see back flap
Zincirli Han
This is one of the
prettiest hans in
the bazaar. Here a
Çarşıkapı Cad, Beyazıt. Map 4 C4.
piece of jewellery
Tel (0212) 522 31 73.
can be made to
Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat.
your own choice
of design. Transport
v Çemberlitaş (for
Nuruosmaniye Gate), Beyazıt
(for Çarşıkapı Gate). @ 61B.
The İç Bedesten is the The Oriental Kiosk

oldest part of the bazaar. was built as a coffee
Once a warehouse, it also house in the 17th
served as a place where century and is now
jewellers could make and a jewellery shop.
sell their wares.
ZINCIRLI Rugs on Display

HAN
Carpets and kilims (see pp366–7)
from all over Turkey and Central
Asia are on sale in the bazaar.
Mahmut Paşa
Gate
AY N A C I L A R S O K
I CAD Money
RŞIS
LAR ÇA
HALICI traders
AĞA SOK
ES TEN
İÇ BED
R SOK
ZACILA
M U H A FA Gateway to the
S A N DA L B E D E S T E N S O K
İç Bedesten
Though the eagle was a
TERZI
C AD symbol of the Byzantine

CİLER
KESE emperors (see pp54–5),
S A N DA L
BASI S
BEDESTEN this eagle, like the

bazaar itself, postdates
the Byzantine era.
OK
The Sandal
CAD Bedesteni dates
from the 16th
century and is
Nuruosmaniye Mosque, covered by 20 brick
Çemberlitaş tram stop domes supported
Nuruosmaniye on piers.
Gate
Key
Kalpakçılar Başı Suggested route

Caddesi, the Antiques and carpets
widest of the streets Leather and denim
in the bazaar,
Souvenirs Gold and silver
is lined with the
Traditionally glittering windows Fabrics
crafted items, of countless Souvenirs
such as this brass jewellery shops.
ewer, are for sale Household goods and workshops
in the bazaar. Boundary of the bazaar
BEYOĞLU
For centuries Beyoğlu, a steep hill north Spain, Arabs, Greeks and Armenians
of the Golden Horn, was home to the settled in communities here. From
city’s foreign residents. First to arrive the 16th century, the European powers
here were the Genoese. As a reward for established embassies in the area to
aiding the reconquest of the city from further their interests within the lucrative
the crusader-backed Latin Empire in 1261, territories of the Ottoman Empire.
they were given the Galata area, which The district has not changed much in
is now dominated by the Galata Tower. character over the centuries and is still
During the Ottoman period, Jews from a thriving commercial quarter today.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Mosques and Churches
Monuments 6 Nusretiye Mosque
1 Pera Palace Hotel
3 Mevlevi Lodge Quarters ASKE R OCA ĞI
CADDESİ
4 Galata Tower 9 Taksim
GA
ZHA
N E BOSTANI SOK
İ
ES
Museums TAKSİM
CA
DD
2 Pera Museum PARKI

Mİ EY S
RA OK
5 Ottoman Bank Museum
M ETE
B
LA A
Y Ş ĞI
EN
7 Istanbul Museum of Modern Art Sİ DÜM K
İ
EF
DE
ES
SO
İK
A D B E YT
8 Museum of Innocence
DD
TA K SCAD
İ Taksim C ÜL
M
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CA
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DÜ
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Taksim S A N ĞL K
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T A Z SO
SO UT
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İK
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SO K L
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Tünel
Ş DE I
BA
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Şişhane RA
REFİK
RESİ
Beyoğlu
İ
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CAD
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İ
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Sİ A
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Karaköy Karaköy
D
Haliç CA
TIM
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Karaköy

maps 1 and 5
A vintage tram on İstiklâl Caddesi in Taksim For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: İstiklâl Caddesi

The pedestrianized İstiklâl Caddesi is Beyoğlu’s main street.
Once known as the Grande Rue de Pera, it is lined by late
19th-century apartment blocks and European embassy
buildings whose grandiose gates and façades belie their
use as mere consulates since Ankara became the Turkish
capital in 1923 (see p62). Hidden from view stand the
churches, which used to serve the foreign communities
of Pera (as this area was formerly called), some still buzzing
with worshippers, others just quiet echoes of a bygone era.
Today, the once seedy backstreets of Beyoğlu, off İstiklâl
Caddesi, have taken on a new lease of life, with trendy bars
and clubs opening and shops selling hand-crafted jewellery,
furniture and the like. Crowds are also drawn by the
1 . Pera Palace Hotel
area’s cinemas and numerous stylish restaurants.
This hotel is an atmospheric
period piece. Many famous
guests, like Agatha Christie,
have stayed here since it
St Mary Draperis is a opened in 1892. The hotel
Franciscan church dating has been extensively restored
from 1789. This small to its original splendour.
statue of the Virgin
stands above the
entrance from the
street. The vaulted
interior of the church is T
E
colourfully decorated. İY
An icon of the Virgin, T
U
said to perform miracles, ŞR
ME
hangs over the altar.
AS
MA
Tünel underground
LI
railway to Karaköy
MESCİT SOK
Tünel
Square D
CA
L
K LA
Tİ
İS
3 . Mevlevi Lodge
A peaceful garden surrounds I
this small museum of the N
A
D
Mevlevi Sufi sect (see p259). TÜN L MEY
E
On the last Sunday of every
month visitors can see
dervishes perform their
famous swirling dance.
Key
Russian
Suggested route Consulate
Swedish Consulate

BEYOĞLU 113
Galatasaray Fish Market

(Balık Pazarı) mainly sells
fresh fish, but inside you
will also find delicatessens
offering everything from BEYOĞLU
meats and cheeses to
sweetmeats and pickles.
us
G or
ol s ph
de
n
Ho Bo
rn
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1
British
Consulate
HA
Armenian
MA LBAŞ
church
I
CA
D
D
A
YENİ ÇARŞI C AD
D
CA
L
K LA
Tİ
İS Galatasaray Lisesi
(high school)
Çiçek Pasajı was originally

a flower market. Its stalls
have been replaced by
bars and restaurants,
which are particularly
lively in the evenings.
Dutch
Consulate
2 Pera Museum
Oriental paintings,
Anatolian weights and
measures and Kütahya
tiles and ceramics are
part of the collection.
The Church of the Panaghia

0 metres 75
serves the now much-reduced
Greek Orthodox population of
0 yards 75 Beyoğlu. Dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, it contains this
beautiful classical iconostasis.
Tucked away off Galip Dede, the

focus of the 18th-century lodge
is a beautiful octagonal wooden
dance floor where the sema (ritual
dance) is usually performed every
Sunday in May and September,
and twice monthly between
October and April. Tickets are
available from the lodge on the
day of the performance.
4 Galata Tower
The peaceful courtyard of the Mevlevi Lodge Galata Kulesi
Büyük Hendek Sok, Şişhane. Map 5
1 Pera Palace Hotel brings together works by D1. Tel (0212) 293 81 80.  Tünel.
Pera Palace Oteli European artists inspired by the Open 9am–8pm daily. & Restaurant
Ottoman world from the 17th & Show Open 8pm–midnight daily.
52 Meşrutiyet Cad, Tepebaşı. Map 1 A5.
century to the early 19th century ∑ galatatower.net
Tel (0212) 251 40 00.  Tünel. 7 by
and also covers the last two cen-
arrangement. ∑ perapalace.com
turies of the Ottoman Empire. The most recognizable feature
Throughout the world there There are also regular temporary on the Golden Horn, the Galata
are hotels that have attained a exhibitions featuring works by Tower, is 60 m (196 ft) high and
legendary status. One such hotel artists such as Warhol and Miro. topped by a conical tower. Its
is the Pera Palace, which opened origins date from the 6th century
in 1892 to cater for travellers on when it was used to monitor
the Orient Express (see p80). 3 Mevlevi Lodge shipping. After the conquest of
After an extensive renovation, Mevlevi Tekkesi Istanbul in 1453, the Ottomans
it still evokes images of turned it into a prison and naval
15 Galip Dede Cad, Beyoğlu. Map 1
uniformed porters and exotic depot. Aviation pioneer, Hezarfen
D3. Tel (0212) 245 41 41.  Tünel.
destinations such as Baghdad. Ahmet Çelebi attached wings
Open 9:30am–5pm Wed–Mon. &
The Grand Orient bar serves to his arms and “flew” from the
cocktails beneath its original Although Sufism was banned tower to Üsküdar in the 1700s.
chandeliers, while the patisserie by Atatürk in 1925, this Dervish The building was subsequently
offers irresistible cakes and a lodge has survived as the Divan used as a fire watchtower.
genteel ambience. A room used Edebiyatı Müzesi, a museum of It has been refurbished to
by the thriller writer Agatha divan literature (classical Ottoman blend with local improvement
Christie can be visited on request. poetry). The lodge belonged to schemes and, in the evenings,
the most famous Sufi sect, known the 9th floor is a restaurant with
as the Whirling Dervishes (see authentic Turkish entertainment.
2 Pera Museum p259). The original dervishes were The unmissable view from the
Pera Müzesi disciples of the mystical poet top encompasses the Istanbul
and Sufi master Celaleddin Rumi, skyline and beyond to Princes’
Merutiyet Cad 141, Tepebaı. Map 1 A4.
known as “Mevlâna” (Our Leader). Islands (see p162).
Tel (0212) 334 99 00.  Tünel.
@ From Taksim Square down
Tarlabaşı. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Thu &
Sat; 10am–10pm Fri; noon–6pm Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, first day of Religious
Holidays. 7 & (disabled visitors enter
free). - = ∑ peramuzesi.org.tr
The Pera Museum was opened

in 2005 by the Suna and İnan
Kıraç Foundation.
Formerly the Hotel Bristol, it
has been transformed into a fully
equipped modern museum.
Notable collections include
Ottoman weights and measures,
over 400 examples of
18th-century Kütahya tiles and
ceramics, and the Suna and İnan
Kıraç Foundation’s exhibition
of Orientalist art. This collection The distinctive Galata Tower, as seen from across the Golden Horn
BEYOĞLU 115
5 Ottoman Bank
Museum
Osmanlı Bankası Müzesi
Bankalar Cad 35–37, Karaköy.
Map 5 D1. Tel (0212) 292 76 05.
 Tünel. @ 25E, 56.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & - ^
The Ottoman Bank Museum has

the most interesting collection
of state archives in Turkey. From
the official Ottoman state bank
in 1856 to its incorporation into
Garanti Bank in 2001, no other
records mirror Turkey’s recent
social, political and economic Colourful display at the museum shop, Istanbul Museum of Modern Art
events so authentically. Exhibits
include Ottoman banknotes, 7 Istanbul Museum Located in the trendy district of
promissory notes, photos of Cukurcuma, this museum is the
of Modern Art pet project of Turkey’s best-
the Empire’s ornately crafted İstanbul Modern Sanat Müzesi
bank branches and outstanding known Nobel-prize winning
photos of employees through- Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, Liman author, Orhan Pamuk. A real-life
out the bank’s history. İşletmeleri Sahası, Antrepo 4, Karaköy. incarnation of the fictional
Map 2 A5. Tel (0212) 334 73 00. v museum in his eponymous
Tophane. @ 56. Open 10am–6pm novel, the museum chronicles
Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu). & free on Thu. the lives of the central characters
- 7 8 ∑ istanbulmodern.org through a collection of everyday
Perched on the Golden Horn, objects dating from 1976–84.
this is the most upbeat and These were collected by the
thoroughly European museum author whilst writing the novel.
in Turkey. It houses both perma-
nent collections and temporary
exhibitions, providing a showcase 9 Taksim
for many of the eccentric and
Map 1 E3.  Taksim. Taksim Art
talented personalities who have
Gallery: Tel (0212) 245 20 68.
shaped modern art in Turkey, and Open 11am–7pm Mon–Sat.
reflecting the main trends and
themes of Turkish art from the Centring on the vast, open
early 20th century to the present Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı),
day. Many of the paintings and the Taksim area is the hub of
drawings are from the private activity in modern Beyoğlu.
collection of the Ecacıbaşı family, Taksim means “water distribution
who founded the museum. centre”, and from the early 18th
Nusretiye Mosque The collection includes century it was from this site that
abstract art, landscapes, water from the Belgrade Forest
6 Nusretiye watercolours and the plastic was distributed throughout the
Mosque arts as well as a sculpture garden modern city. The original stone
Nusretiye Camii and a stunning exhibition of reservoir, built in 1732 by
black-and-white photography. Mahmut I, still stands at
Necatibey Cad, Tophane. Map 1 B5.
@ 25E, 56. Open daily.
Exhibitions by contemporary the top of İstiklal Caddesi.
artists from abroad are held On Cumhuriyet Caddesi is the
The Baroque “Mosque of Victory” regularly, as the museum modern building of the Taksim
was built in the 1820s by embraces “Modern Experiences”. Art Gallery, which shows
Kirkor Balian. A very ornate temporary exhibitions as well
building, it is in fact more like as permanent displays of
a large palace pavilion than 8 Museum of Istanbul landscapes by some
a typical mosque. It was com- Innocence of Turkey’s most important
missioned by Mahmut II to 20th-century painters.
commemorate his abolition Masumiyet Müzesi An extensive redevelopment
of the Janissary corps in 1826 Cukurcuma Cad, Dalgıç Çıkmaz. project of Taksim Square was
(see p61). The marble panel Map1 B5. Tel (0212) 252 97 38. halted by the Gezı Park protests
of calligraphy around the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm of 2013, but may resume and
interior of the mosque is Fri). ∑ masumiyetmuzesi.org cause disruptions to public
particularly fine.  Taksim. transport and traffic.
FURTHER AFIELD 117
FURTHER AFIELD
Away from Istanbul’s city centre there are northwards, it will bring you to Dolmabahçe
numerous sights worth visiting. Stretching Palace, an opulent fantasy not to be missed.
from the Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara, Beyond it is peaceful Yıldız Park, with yet
the Theodosian Walls are one of the city’s more beautiful palaces and pavilions.
most impressive monuments. Along the walls Not all visitors have time to see the Asian
stand several ancient palaces and churches: side of the city, but it is worth spending
particularly interesting is the Church of St half a day here. Attractions include splendid
Saviour in Chora, with its stunning Byzantine mosques, an ornate railway station and a
mosaics. If you follow the Bosphorus museum dedicated to Florence Nightingale.
Sights at a Glance
Mosques and Churches g Şemsi Paşa Mosque k Selimiye Barracks
1 Ahrida Synagogue h İskele Mosque l Haydarpaşa Station
2 Church of St Stephen of the j Atik Valide Mosque z Ortaköy
Bulgars Historic Sights x Bosphorus Bridge
3 Church of the Pammakaristos v Fortress of Asia
9 Fortress of Seven Towers
4 Greek Orthodox Patriarchate b Sakıp Sabancı Museum
0 Theodosian Walls
n Fortress of Europe
5 Mosque of Selim I q Shrine of Zoodochus Pege
6 Fatih Mosque w Panorama 1453 Museum Palaces
7 Zeyrek Mosque i Pierre Loti Café r Palace of the Porphyrogenitus
8 Church of St John of Studius o Rahmi Koς Industrial Museum u Complex of Valide Sultan Mihrişah
e Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque p Military Museum s Dolmabahçe Palace pp126–7
t Church of St Saviour in Chora a Naval Museum c Beylerbeyi Palace
pp122–3 d Yıldız Park
y Eyüp Sultan Mosque f Leander’s Tower
9 km (6 miles)
Osmanbey 5 km
(3 miles)
Ortaköy
Teşvikiye
Eyüp
Feriköy
s 6 km
r u (4 miles)
o
h
p
s
Beyoğlu o Üsküdar
Go
B
ld e
Carşamba
n
or
H
Fatih Sirkeci
ISTANBUL
Kocamustafapasa
Sultanahmet
Kadiköy
Sea of Marmara
Key
Central Istanbul Main road
0 kilometres 1
Greater Istanbul Other road
0 miles 1
Motorway
The spectacular ceiling of the Ceremonial Hall at Dolmabahçe Palace For additional map symbols see back flap
1 Ahrida the history of the city, and its

Synagogue breathtaking series of mosaics.
Ahrida Sinagogu For over 100 years after the
Ottoman conquest, it housed
Gevgili Sok, Balat. @ 55T, 99A.
the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate,
Open by appointment only.
but was converted into a
Tel Karavan Travel, (0212) 523 47 29. ^
mosque in the late 16th century
The name of the oldest and by Sultan Murat III.
most beautiful synagogue in The charming exterior is
Istanbul is a corruption of Ohrid, obviously Byzantine, with its
the name of a town in the former alternating stone and brick
Yugoslavia from which its courses and finely carved marble
congregation came. details. The main body of the
Founded before the Muslim building is the working mosque,
conquest of Istanbul in 1453, it while the extraordinary mosaics
has been in constant use ever The Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars, and frescoes are in a side chapel.
since. The painted walls and wholly made of cast iron This now operates as a museum.
ceilings, dating from the late Dating from the 14th century,
17th century, have been restored The church was needed for the great Byzantine renaissance,
to their Baroque glory. Pride of the Bulgarian community who the mosaics show holy figures
place is the central Holy Ark, had broken away from the isolated in a sea of gold, a
which is covered in rich tapestries. authority of the Greek Orthodox reflection of the heavens.
Visits are possible by prior Patriarchate just up the hill. Today, On either side are portraits of
arrangement with specialist tour it is still used by this community, the Virgin Mary and John the
operators, such as Karavan who keep the marble tombs of Baptist beseeching Christ.
Travel. Alternatively, contact the the first Bulgarian patriarchs They are overlooked by the
Chief rabbinate well in advance. permanently decorated with four archangels, while the side
flowers. The church stands in a apses are filled with other
pretty little park dotted with saintly figures. In the centre
2 Church of trees, and which runs down to of the main dome are images
St Stephen the edge of the Golden Horn. of Christ Pantocrator (“the All-
Powerful”) and the Old
of the Bulgars Testament prophets.
Bulgar Kilisesi 3 Church of the
85 Mürsel Paşa Cad, Balat. @ 55T, Pammakaristos
99A. g Ayvansaray. Open 9am–4pm Fethiye Camii 4 Greek Orthodox
daily.
Fethiye Cad, Çarşamba-Fatih. @ 90, Patriarchate
90B. Open prayer times only. Museum: Ortodoks Patrikhanesi
Astonishingly, this entire church Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Thu. 35 Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad, Fener.
was cast in iron, even the internal & for museum. Tel (0212) 521 19 21. @ 55T, 99A.
columns and galleries. It was
Open 9am–5pm daily. 8
created in Vienna in 1871, This Byzantine church is one of
shipped all the way to the the hidden secrets of Istanbul. This walled complex has been
Golden Horn (see p103) and It is rarely visited despite the the seat of the patriarch of the
assembled on its shore. important role it has played in Greek Orthodox Church since
the early 17th century. Though
nominally head of the whole
church, the patriarch is now
shepherd to a diminishing
Istanbul flock.
The main door to the Patri-
archate has been welded shut in
memory of Patriarch Gregory V,
hanged here for treason in 1821
after encouraging the Greeks to
throw off Ottoman rule at the
start of the Greek War of
Independence (1821–32).
Turkish–Greek antagonism
worsened with the Greek
occupation of parts of Turkey in
the 1920s (see p62), anti-Greek
riots in 1955, and the expulsion
Byzantine façade of the Church of the Pammakaristos of Greek residents in the
FURTHER AFIELD 119
İznik tiles (see p165) The tomb of Mehmet the

made by the cuerda Conqueror stands behind
seca technique, the prayer hall, near that of
whereby each colour his consort, Gülbahar. His
is separated during sarcophagus and the turban
the firing process, decorating it are both
affording the patterns appropriately large. It is a
greater definition. place of enormous gravity,
Similar tiles lend always busy with supplicants.
decorative effect to If you pay a visit to the
the simple prayer hall, mosque on a Wednesday, you
with its fine mosque will also see the weekly market,
The ornate, gilded interior of the Church of St George furniture (see pp36–7) which turns the streets around
in the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate and original, carefully it into a circus of commerce.
painted woodwork. From tables piled high with
mid-1960s. Today the clergy at fruit and vegetables to trucks
the Patriarchate is protected by loaded with unspun wool, this
a metal detector at the entrance. 6 Fatih Mosque is a real spectacle.
The Patriarchate centres on Fatih Camii
the basilica-style Church of
Macar Kardeşler Cad, Fatih. Map 4 A2.
St George, dating back to 1720,
@ 28, 87, 90, 91. Open daily.
yet the church contains much
older relics and furniture. The A spacious outer courtyard
patriarch’s throne is thought to surrounds this vast Baroque
be Byzantine, while the pulpit mosque, the third major
is adorned with fine wooden structure on this site. The first
inlay and icons. was the Church of the Holy
Apostles, the burial place of
most of the Byzantine
5 Mosque of emperors. Most of what you
Selim I see today was the work of
Yavuz Selim Camii Mehmet Tahir Ağa, the chief
imperial architect under
Yavuz Selim Cad, Fener. @ 55T, 90,
Mustafa III. Many of the
90B, 99A. Open daily.
buildings he constructed
This much-admired mosque around the prayer hall, Church of the Pantocrator, built by Empress
is also known locally as Yavuz including eight Koranic Irene in the 12th century
Sultan Mosque: Yavuz, “the colleges (medreses) and a
Grim”, being the nickname the hospice, still stand. The only 7 Zeyrek Mosque
infamous Selim acquired. It is surviving parts of Mehmet Zeyrek Camii
idyllic in a rather offbeat way, the Conqueror’s mosque
İbadethane Sok, Küçükpazar.
which does seem at odds with are the three porticoes of
Map 4 B2. @ 28, 61B, 87. Open prayer
Selim’s barbaric reputation. the courtyard, the ablutions
times daily. 7
The mosque, built fountain, the main gate into
between 1522 and 1529, the prayer hall and, inside, This building was a church in
sits alone on a hill the mihrab. Two the Byzantine period, founded
beside what is now a exquisite forms of by Empress Irene, the wife of
vast sunken park 15th-century John II Comnenus, and was
area, once the decoration can known as the Church of the
Byzantine Cistern be seen over Pantocrator (“Christ the
of Aspar. the windows Almighty”) during the 12th
Beautifully in the porticoes: century. It was once the centre-
restored, it is İznik tiles and piece of one of Istanbul’s most
one of the lunettes adorned important religious foundations,
most attractive with calligraphic the Monastery of the Pantocrator.
mosques in marble inlay. The complex included an
Istanbul, with a Stencilled patterns asylum, a hospice and a hospital.
shallow dome decorate the Converted into a mosque after
covering an domes of the Ottoman conquest, it boasts
austere prayer hall. the prayer hall, a magnificent figurative marble
The windows set and parts of floor and is composed of three
into the porticoes the walls are interlinked chapels. Closed for
in the courtyard İznik tile panel in the covered with restoration for many years, the
are capped by early Mosque of Selim I beautiful tiles. mosque reopened in late 2014.
8 Church of St John
of Studius
İmrahor Camii
İmam Aşir Sok, Yedikule. @ 80, 80T.
£ Yedikule.
Istanbul’s oldest surviving

church, St John of Studius, is
now merely a shell consisting
of its outer walls.
The church was completed
in AD 463 by Studius, a Roman
patrician who served as consul
during the reign of Emperor
Marcian (450–57). Originally
connected to the most powerful Ruins of the Church of St John of Studius
monastery in the Byzantine
Empire and populated with the southern section of the from the names and epitaphs
ascetic monks, in the late 8th Theodosian Walls. It displays which many of these doomed
century it was a spiritual and both Byzantine and Ottoman individuals carved into the
intellectual centre under the rule features, being built in stages walls. Some of these morbid
of Abbot Theodore, who is now over a long period. Its seven inscriptions are still visible.
highly venerated in the Greek towers are joined by thick There are two towers flanking
Orthodox Church as St Theodore. walls to make a five-sided the Golden Gate. The north
In the 15th century the church fortification. The two square tower was a place of execution.
was converted into a mosque. marble towers built into the Among those who met their
The building was abandoned in great land walls once flanked end here was the 17-year-old
1894 after it was damaged by the Golden Gate (now blocked), Sultan Osman II, who was
an earthquake. The church is still which consisted of three dragged off to Yedikule by
in ruins, but visitors can admire magnificent golden portals. his own Janissaries in 1622,
the impressive exterior of the The gate was built by Emperor after four years of misrule.
basilica, with a single apse at Theodosius I in AD 390 as the The walkway around the
the east end, preceded by a triumphal entrance into the ramparts is accessible via a
narthex and a courtyard. There thriving medieval city steep flight of stone steps
are plans to restore the building of Byzantium. and offers good views of
and convert it into a mosque. In the 15th century, Sultan the land walls, the southern
Mehmet II (the Conqueror) marble tower and market
completed Yedikule by adding garden allotments.
9 Fortress of Seven three round towers and
Towers connecting curtain walls. After
Yedikule
viewing the castle from the 0 Theodosian Walls
outside, you can enter through a Teodos II Surları
Kale Meydanı 4, Yedikule İmrahor doorway in the northeastern
Mahallesi. Tel (0212) 585 89 33. From Yedikule to Ayvansaray.
wall. The tower to your left as you
@ 31, 80, 93T. Kazlıçeşme.  Kazlıçeşme, Ulubatlı. v Pazarteke.
enter is the yazılı kule, “the tower g Ayvansaray.
Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily. with inscriptions”. It was used as a
prison for foreign envoys and With its 11 fortified gates and
Yedikule, the “Fortress of Seven others who fell out of favour with 192 towers, this great chain
Towers”, was built in 1455 against the sultan. Its name is derived of double walls sealed
Constantinople’s landward
side against invasion for
more than a thousand years.
Extending for a distance of
6.5 km (4 miles) from the Sea
of Marmara to the Golden Horn,
the walls are built in layers
of red tile alternating with
limestone blocks. They can be
reached by metro, tram or
train, but to see their whole
length you will need to take
a taxi or dolmuş (see p396)
along the main road that runs
Battlements at Yedikule, an Ottoman addition to the fortress outside them.
FURTHER AFIELD 121
The walls were built by in 1554 for Kara Ahmet Paşa,

Theodosius II in AD 412–22. a grand vizier of Süleyman the
They endured many sieges, and Magnificent (see p59).
were only breached by Mehmet The courtyard is surrounded
the Conqueror in May 1453 (see by the cells of a medrese and
p58), when the Ottomans took a dershane, or main classroom.
Constantinople. Successive Attractive apple-green and
Ottoman sultans continued yellow İznik tiles (see p165) dating
to maintain the walls until from the mid-1500s grace the
the end of the 17th century. porch, with blue-and-white tiles
Many parts of the walls have on the east wall of the prayer hall.
been rebuilt, and the new
sections give an idea of how
the walls used to look. Some r Palace of the
of the gateways are still in good Porphyrogenitus
repair, but a section of walls
Tekfur Sarayı
was demolished in the 1950s
to make way for a road. The Silivrikapı, one of the gateways through Şişehane Cad, Edirnekapı.
Charsius Gate (now called the Theodosian Walls Tel (0212) 522 175. @ 87, 90, 126.
Edirnekapı), Silivrikapı, Yeni g Ayvansaray then 20 minutes' walk
Mevlanakapı and other original opposite the section of the Open daily.
gates still give access to the city. Theodosian Walls where Mehmet
the conquerer, positioned his The Palace of the
best troops and mightiest Porphyrogenitus was a shadow
q Shrine of cannon. The magnificence of of its former grandeur until 2012,
Zoodochus Pege the painting, with over ten when a major restoration pro-
Balıklı Kilise thousand figures, is heightened gramme was undertaken. This is
by sound effects inspired by the likely to see the palace converted
3 Seyit Nizam Cad, Silivrikapı.
conquest. An informative audio into a convention centre on its
Tel (0212) 582 30 81. v Seyitnizam.
@ 93T. Open 8:30am–4pm daily.
guide is available in Turkish. completion. The former palace
has an attractive three-storey
The fountain of Zoodochus façade in typically Byzantine
Pege (“Life-Giving Spring”) is e Gazi Ahmet Paşa style. It was most likely built in
built over Istanbul’s most famous Mosque the late Byzantine era as an
sacred spring, which is believed annexe of the Blachernae
Gazi Ahmet Paşa Camii
to have miraculous powers. The Palace. These palaces became
fish in it are said to have arrived Undeğirmeni Sok, Fatma Sultan. the principal residences of the
by miracle shortly before the fall Open Prayer times only.  Ulubatlı. imperial sovereigns during the
of Constantinople (see p58). They v Topkapı. @ 93T. last two centuries before the fall
are believed to have leapt into of Constantinople to the
the water from a monk’s frying One of the most worthwhile Ottomans in 1453.
pan on hearing him declare that detours along the city walls is During the reign of Ahmet III
a Turkish invasion of the fortified the Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque. (1703–30), the last remaining
town was as likely as fish This lovely building, with its İznik potters (see p165) moved
coming back to life. The spring peaceful leafy courtyard and to the palace and it became a
was probably the site of an graceful proportions, is one of centre for tile production. Cezri
ancient sanctuary of Artemis. the imperial architect Sinan’s Kasım Paşa Mosque in Eyüp has
(see p105) lesser-known some very fine examples of
achievements, which he built these tiles.
w Panorama 1453
Museum
Panoramik Müzesi
Topkapı Kültür Parkı. Tel (0212) 415 14
53. v Topkapı. Open 9am–6:30pm
daily. ∑ panoramikmuze.com
The inside of the dome of

this modern building has
been decorated with a brilliant
panoramic painting depicting
the 1453 siege of Constantinople
by the Ottoman Turks (see p58).
The museum is located right Tilework over medrese doorway at Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque
t Church of St Saviour in Chora

Kariye Camii
Some of the very finest Byzantine mosaics and frescoes
can be found in the Church of St Saviour in Chora. Little
is known of the early history of the church, although
its name “in Chora”, which means “in the country”,
suggests that the church originally stood in a rural
setting. The present church dates from the 11th century.
From 1315 to 1321 it was remodelled, and the mosaics
and frescoes were added by Theodore Metochites,
a theologian, philosopher and one of the elite
Byzantine officials of his day. View of St Saviour in Chora
the Genealogy of Christ as his

The Genealogy of Christ starting point: the mosaics The Life of the Virgin
Theodore Metochites, who in the two domes of the inner All but one of the 20 mosaics
restored St Saviour, wrote that narthex portray 66 of in the inner narthex depicting
his mission was to relate how Christ’s forebears. the Life of the Virgin are well
“the Lord himself became a The crown of the southern preserved. This cycle is based
mortal on our behalf”. He takes dome is occupied by a figure mainly on the apocryphal
of Christ. Gospel of St James, written in
In the dome’s the 2nd century, which gives
flutes are two an account of the Virgin’s life.
rows of his This was popular in the Middle
ancestors: Adam Ages and was a rich source of
to Jacob ranged material for ecclesiastical artists.
above the 12 Among the events shown are
sons of Jacob. the first seven steps of the
In the northern Virgin, the Virgin entrusted to
dome, there is Joseph and the Virgin receiving
a central image bread from an angel.
of the Virgin
and Child with
the kings of the The Infancy of Christ
House of David Scenes from the Infancy of
in the upper Christ, based largely on the New
row and lesser Testament, occupy the semi-
ancestors of circular panels of the outer
Mosaic showing Christ and his ancestors, in the southern Christ in the narthex. They begin on the
dome of the inner narthex lower row. north wall of the outer narthex
Guide to the Mosaics and Frescoes

Entrance
Outer
narthex
Nave
Outer narthex looking east
Inner
narthex
Entrance to nave Parecclesion

Key
The Genealogy of Christ Christ’s Ministry
The Life of the Virgin Other Mosaics
The Infancy of Christ The Frescoes
Outer narthex looking west
FURTHER AFIELD 123
with a scene of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Joseph being visited
by an angel in a Practical Information
dream. Subsequent Kariye Camii Sok, Edirnekapı.
panels include Mary Tel (0212) 631 92 41.
and Joseph’s Journey Open 9am–4:30pm Thu–Tue.
to Bethlehem for &-=
Taxation, the Nativity Transport
of Christ and, finally, @ 28, 86 or 90 then
Herod ordering 5 minutes’ walk.
the Massacre of The Enrolment for Taxation
the Innocents.
on a bier, watched over by the the purpose of the parecclesion
Apostles, with Christ seated as a place of burial – is the
Christ’s Ministry behind. Other devotional Anastasis, in the semidome
While many of the mosaics in panels in the two narthexes above the apse. In it, the central
this series are badly damaged, include one, on the east wall figure of Christ, the vanquisher
some beautiful panels remain. of the south bay of death, is shown dragging
The cycle occupies the vaults of of the inner narthex, of Adam and Eve out of their
the seven bays of the the Deësis, depicting tombs. Under Christ’s feet are
outer narthex and Christ with the Virgin the gates of hell, while Satan
some of the south Mary and, unusually, lies before him. The fresco in the
bay of the inner without St John. vault overhead depicts The Last
narthex. The most Another, in the Judgment, with the souls of the
striking mosaic inner narthex saved on the right and those
is the portrayal over the door of the damned to the left.
of Christ’s into the nave,
temptation in the is of Theodore
wilderness, in the Theodore Metochites presents Metochites
second bay of the St Saviour in Chora to Christ himself, shown
outer narthex. wearing a large
turban, and humbly presenting
the restored church as an
Other Mosaics offering to Christ.
There are three panels in the
nave of the church, one of
which, above the main door The Frescoes
from the inner narthex, The frescoes in the parecclesion
illustrates the Dormition of the are thought to have been
Virgin. This mosaic, protected painted just after the mosaics
by a marble frame, is the best were completed, probably in
preserved in the church. around 1320. The most engaging Figure of Christ from the Anastasis
The Virgin is depicted laid out of the frescoes – which reflect fresco in the parecclesion
Inner narthex looking east Parecclesion and outer narthex looking south
Inner narthex looking west Parecclesion and outer narthex looking north
in Istanbul, although unusually chains and other similar

it is not centred on a mosque. goods for the shipping
Built for Mihrişah, mother of industry. Well located on the
Selim III, the külliye was banks of the Golden Horn,
completed in 1791. the museum can be easily
The complex includes the reached by ferry from
ornate marble tomb of Mihrişah Eminönü. The exhibits here
and a soup kitchen, which is still range from amphicars to
in use today. penny farthings. Visitors
will also find Royal Enfield
motorcycles, Trabants, old
i Pierre Loti Café steam ships, a Douglas
Piyer Loti Kahvehanesi DC-3 Dakota, a working
railway and a submarine. For
Gümüşsuyu Cad, Balmumku Sok 5,
those weary after exploring
Eyüp. Tel (0212) 616 23 44. @ 39, 55T,
the extensive collection, the
99A. g Eyüp. Open 8am–midnight
daily.
museum also has three good
Visitors at the tomb of Eyüp Ensari, on-site restaurants.
Mohammed’s standard bearer This famous café stands at
the top of the hill in Eyüp
y Eyüp Sultan Cemetery, a 20-minute walk p Military Museum
Mosque up Karyağdı Sokağı from Eyüp Askeri Müze
Eyüp Sultan Camii Mosque. It is named after the
Vali Konağı Cad, Harbiye. Map 1 C1.
French novelist, Julien Viaud,
Cami-i Kebir Sok. Tel (0212) 564 73 68. Tel (0212) 233 27 20. @ 46H.
a French naval officer, popularly
@ 39, 55T, 99A. g Eyüp. Open daily. Open 9am–5pm Wed–Sun. Mehter
known as Pierre Loti, who Band performances: 3–4pm
Mehmet the Conqueror built frequented the café during Wed–Sun. & 8
the original mosque on this site his stay here in 1876. Loti
in 1458, five years after his defiantly fell in love with a One of Istanbul’s most
conquest of Istanbul, in honour married Turkish woman and impressive museums, the
of Eyüp Ensari. That building wrote an auto-biographical Military Museum traces
fell into ruins and the present novel, Aziyade, about their the history of the country’s
mosque was completed in affair. The café is prettily conflicts from the conquest of
1800, by Selim III. decked out with 19th-century Constantinople in 1453 (see p58)
The mosque’s delightful inner furniture and the waiters wear through to modern warfare.
courtyard features two huge period outfits. The building used to be the
plane trees on a platform. This military academy where Atatürk
was the setting for the Girding studied from 1899 to 1905.
of the Sword of Osman, part of o Rahmi Koç The museum is also the main
a sultan’s inauguration in the Industrial Museum location for performances by
days of Mehmet the Conqueror. the Mehter Band (see p371),
Opposite the mosque is the Hasköy Cad 27, Eyüp. Tel (0212) 369 formed in the 14th century
tomb of Eyüp Ensari himself, 66 00. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, during the reign of Osman I
said to have been killed 10am–6pm Sat & Sun (to 8pm (see p58). Until the 19th century
during the first Arab siege Apr–Sep. the musicians were Janissaries,
of Constantinople in the who accompanied the sultan
7th century. The tomb dates This is Turkey’s best industrial into battle and performed songs
from the same period as the museum, which was formerly about hero-ancestors and battle
mosque and its decoration is in a factory producing anchors, victories. The band had a wide
the Ottoman Baroque style.
u Complex of
Valide Sultan
Mihrişah
Mihrişah Valide Sultan Külliyesi
Seyit Reşat Cad. @ 39, 55T, 99A.
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
Most of the northern side of the

street leading from Eyüp Mosque’s
northern gate is occupied by the
largest Baroque külliye (see p36) Period interior of the Pierre Loti Café
FURTHER AFIELD 125
influence and is thought to d Yıldız Park Several other little pavilions

have provided some inspiration dot Yıldız Park. Şale Köşkü is one
Çırağan Cad, Beşiktaş. Map 3 D2.
for Mozart and Beethoven. @ 25E, 40. Open dawn to dusk daily.
of the most impressive in the
Some of the most striking & for vehicles. park and built by Abdül Hamit.
weapons on display on the Although its façade appears as
ground floor are the curved Yildiz Park was originally laid a whole, it was in fact built in
daggers (cembiyes) carried at out as the garden of the first three stages.
the waist by foot soldiers in Çırağan Palace. It later formed the The Malta and Çadır pavilions
the 15th century. These are grounds of Yıldız Palace, an were built during the reign of
ornamented with plant, flower assortment of buildings from Abdül Aziz who ruled from 1861
and geometric motifs in relief different eras now enclosed to 1876. Both of them formerly
and silver filigree. Other exhibits behind a wall and entered served as prisons but are open
include 17th-century copper separately from Ihlamur-Yıldız as cafés. Malta Pavilion, also a
head armour for horses and Caddesi. The palace is a collec- restaurant, is a favoured haunt
Ottoman shields made from cane tion of pavilions and villas built of locals on Sundays.
and willow covered in silk thread. in the 19th and 20th centuries. Mitat Paşa, reformist and
A moving portrayal of trench Many of them are the work of the architect of the constitution,
warfare is included in the eccentric Sultan Abdül Hamit II was among those imprisoned
section concerned with the (1876–1909, see p61), who made in Çadır Pavilion, for instigating
ANZAC landings of 1915 at it his principal residence as he the murder of Abdül Aziz.
Chunuk Bair on the Gallipoli feared a seaborne attack on Meanwhile, Murat V and his
peninsula (see pp172–3), and Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp126–7). mother were locked away in
upstairs is a spectacular exhibit The main building in the Malta Pavilion for 27 years after
of the tents used by sultans on entrance courtyard is the State
a brief incarceration in the
their campaigns. Apartments (Büyük Mabeyn),
Çırağan Palace.
From the nearby station on dating from the reign of Sultan
In 1895 the Imperial Porcelain
Taşkışla Caddesi you can take Selim III (1789–1807). Around the
Factory began production here,
the cable car across Maçka Park corner, the City Museum (Şehir
to satisfy the demand of the
to Abdi İpekçi Caddesi in Müzesi) has a display of Yıldız
upper classes for chic European-
Teşvikiye. Some of the best porcelain. The Italianate building
style ceramics. The unusual
designer clothes, jewellery, opposite is the former armoury,
building was designed to look
furniture and art shops in the or Silahhane. Next door to the
city are here (see pp134–5). City Museum is the Yıldız Palace like a stylized medieval castle of
Museum, housed in what was Europe, complete with several
the Marangozhane (Abdül turrets and portcullis windows.
a Naval Museum Hamit’s carpentry workshop), and
E City Museum
Deniz Müzesi containing a changing collection
Tel (0212) 258 53 44.
of the palace’s art and objects.
Barbaraos Hayrettin, Paşa İskele Sok. Further on is Yıldız Palace E Yıldız Palace Museum
Map 2 B3. @ 22, 22/RE, 25/E. Theatre (completed in 1889 Tel (0212) 258 30 80 (ext 280).
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. by Abdül Hamit), now a
museum. The theatre’s
The Naval Museum opened restored interior is
in 2013 after several years mainly blue and gold,
of restoration. Housed in a and the stars on the
state-of-the-art complex on domed ceiling refer to
the seafront, it offers superb the palace’s name:
views of the Bosphorus Strait. yıldız means “star” in
The exhibits at the museum Turkish. Backstage, the
include a beautifully renovated former dressing rooms
series of imperial caїques. contain theatre
These were long, narrow displays, including
rowboats that once took the original costumes
sultans and their entourages and playbills.
up and down the waterways The lake in the
around the city. The museum grounds is shaped like
also has a good café and play Abdül Hamit’s tuğra
area for children. (see p32). A menagerie
was once kept on
the lake’s islands,
s Dolmabahçe where some 30
Palace keepers tended
tigers, lions, giraffes
See pp126–7. and zebras. A bridge in the grounds of Yıldız Palace
s Dolmabahçe Palace
Dolmabahçe Sarayı
Sultan Abdülmecit built Dolmabahçe Palace in 1856.
As its designers he employed Karabet Balyan and his
son Nikoğos, members of the great family of Armenian
architects who lined the Bosphorus (see pp130–31) with
many of their creations during the 19th century. The
extravagant opulence of the Dolmabahçe belies the fact
that it was built at a time when the Ottoman Empire was
in decline. The palace can be visited only on a guided
tour, of which two are on offer. The best tour takes you
through the Selamlık (or Mabeyn-i Hümayun), the part
of the palace that was reserved for men and which
contains the state rooms and the enormous Ceremonial
. Crystal Staircase
Hall. The other tour goes through the Harem, the living The apparent fragility of this glass
quarters of the sultan and his entourage. If you want staircase stunned observers when
to go only on one tour, visit the Selamlık. it was built. In the shape of a double
horseshoe, it is made from English
crystal and brass, and has a
polished mahogany rail.
Entrance
Imperial Gate of the Palace

Once used only by the sultan
and his ministers, this gate is
now the main entrance to the
palace. The Mehter, or Janissary,
Band (see pp371, 124) performs
in front of the gate every
Tuesday afternoon
throughout the summer.
Swan Fountain
This fountain stands
in the Imperial Garden.
The original 16th-century
garden here was created from
recovered land, hence the palace’s name,
Dolmabahçe, meaning “Filled-in Garden”.
FURTHER AFIELD 127
. Ceremonial Hall
This magnificent domed
hall was designed to
Dolmabahçe Cad, Beşiktaş.
hold 2,500 people.
Map 2 B4. Open Apr–Oct:
Its chandelier, reputedly
8.30am–5pm Tue, Wed & Fri–
the heaviest in Europe,
Sun; Nov–Mar: 8:30am–4pm.
was bought in England. &8-=
Transport
@ 25E, 40.
Blue Salon
On religious feast days the
sultan’s mother would
receive his wives and
favourites in the Harem’s
principal room.
KEY
1 The Red Room was used by

the sultan to receive ambassadors.
2 The Süfera Salon, where
ambassadors waited for an audience
with the sultan, is one of the most
luxurious rooms in the palace.
3 Selamlık and Harem
4 The Zülvecheyn, or
Panorama Room
5 Sultan Abdül Aziz’s bedroom
had to accommodate a huge bed
built especially for the 150 kg (330 lb)
amateur wrestler.
6 Harem
7 The rose-coloured salon was
the assembly room of the Harem.
8 Atatürk’s Bedroom, where
. Main Bathroom Atatürk (see p62) died at 9:05am
The walls of this on 10 November 1938. Some
bathroom are revetted of the clocks in the palace, such as
in finest Egyptian the one near the crystal staircase,
alabaster, while the are stopped at this time.
taps are solid silver.
The brass-framed 9 Reception room of the
bathroom windows sultan’s mother
afford stunning views 0 Main shore gate
across the Bosphorus.
structure on a raised platform,

it was built by Sinan between
1547 and 1548 for Mihriman
Sultan, favourite daughter of
Süleyman the Magnificent.
Without space to build a
courtyard, Sinan constructed
a large protruding roof which
extends to cover the şadırvan
(ablutions fountain) in front
of the mosque.
j Atik Valide
Mosque
Leander’s Tower, on its own small island in the Bosphorus Atik Valide Camii
Çinili Camii Sok, Üsküdar. Map 6 C3.
f Leander’s Tower at the request of Şemsi Ahmet @ 12C (from Üsküdar).
Kız Kulesi Paşa, who succeeded Sokollu Open prayer times only.
Mehmet Paşa.
Üsküdar. Map 6 A3.  Üsküdar.
g Üsküdar. Tel (0216) 342 47 47.
The mosque’s garden, The Atik Valide mosque, set on
∑ kizkulesi.com.tr overlooking the Bosphorus, is the hill above Üsküdar, was one
surrounded on two sides by the of the most extensive mosque
Located on an islet offshore theological college or medrese complexes in the whole of
from Üsküdar, the tiny, white (see p36), with the small Istanbul. The name
Leander’s Tower is a well-known mosque on the third translates as “Old
Bosphorus landmark, dating side and the seawall Mosque of the
from the 18th century. The tower on the fourth. The Sultan’s Mother”,
once served as a quarantine mosque itself is also as the mosque was
centre during a cholera quite unusual in built for Nur Banu,
outbreak, as a lighthouse, that the tomb of the wife of Selim II
a customs control point and Şemsi Ahmet Paşa is (“the Sot”) and the
a maritime toll gate. The tower joined to the main mother of Murat III.
is now used as a restaurant and building, divided from Dome in the entrance to Atik She was the first of
pricey offshore nightclub. the interior by a grille. Valide Mosque the sultans’ mothers
In Turkish the tower is known to rule the Ottoman
as the “Maiden’s Tower” after a Empire from the Harem (see
legendary princess, confined h İskele Mosque p75). Sinan completed the
here after a prophet foretold İskele Camii mosque, which was his last
that she would die of a snake- major work, in 1583. It has a
Hakimiyeti Milliye Cad, Üsküdar.
bite. The tower’s English name wide shallow dome which rests
Map 6 B2. g Üsküdar. Open daily.
derives from the Greek myth on five semidomes, with a flat
of Leander, who swam the One of Usküdar’s most arch over the entrance portal.
Hellespont (the modern-day prominent landmarks, the İskele The interior is surrounded
Dardanelles, see pp172–3) to Mosque (also known as on three sides by galleries,
see his lover, priestess Hero. Mihrimah Sultan Mosque), takes the undersides of which retain
its name from the ferry landing the rich stencilling typical of
where it stands. A massive the period. The mihrab apse is
g Şemsi Paşa almost completely covered
Mosque with panels of fine İznik tiles
Şemsi Paşa Camii (see p165), while the mihrab
itself and the minbar are both
Sahil Yolu, Üsküdar. Map 6 A2.
made of sculpted marble.
g Üsküdar. Open daily.
Side aisles were added in the
This is one of the smallest 17th century, while the grilles
mosques to be commissioned and architectural trompe l’oeil
by a grand vizier (Ottoman paintings on the royal loge
prime minister). Its miniature in the western gallery date
dimensions combined with its from the 18th century.
picturesque waterfront location Outside, a door in the north
make it one of the most wall of the courtyard leads
attractive little mosques in down a flight of stairs to the
the city. It was built in 1580 by Fountain set into the platform below the medrese (theological college),
the architect Sinan (see p105), İskele Mosque where the dershane (classroom)
FURTHER AFIELD 129
projects out over the street

below, supported by an arch.
The şifahane (hospital), built
around a central courtyard just
east of the mosque, is also
worth a visit.
k Selimiye Barracks
Selimiye Kışlası
Çeşmei Kebir Cad, Selimiye. Map 6 B5.
g Harem. @ 12.
The Selimiye Barracks were

originally made of wood and
completed in 1799 under Selim III,
who was sultan from 1789 to
1807. They were built to house Haydarpaşa Station, former terminus for trains arriving from Anatolia
the “New Army” that formed
part of Selim’s plan for reforming gave her the epitaph “Lady l Haydarpaşa
the Imperial command structure of the Lamp”. Visits must be Station
and replacing the powerful arranged in advance by faxing Haydarpaşa Garı
Janissaries (see pp60–61). The the Army Headquarters on
Haydarpaşa İstasyon Cad. Tel (0216)
plan backfired and Selim was (0216) 333 10 09.
348 80 20. g Haydarpaşa or Kadıköy.
deposed but the barracks were, Nearby are two other sites
nevertheless, a striking symbol worth seeing – the Selimiye A fire in 2010 did not diminish
of Constantinople’s military Mosque and the British War the grandeur of Haydarpaşa
might, perhaps becoming even Cemetery (also known as the Station, which, with its tiled jetty,
more so when they were rebuilt Crimean Memorial Cemetery). was once the most impressive
in stone in 1829 by Mahmut II. The mosque was built in 1804 point of arrival or departure in
The building still houses and is set in a lovely courtyard. Istanbul. Built on land reclaimed
Istanbul’s First Army Division The Cemetery, south on Burhan from the sea, the station is
and is off limits to the public. Felek Caddesi, contains the surrounded by water on three
The Florence Nightingale graves of men who died in the sides – a unique feature.
Museum is found within the Crimean War, World War I The first Anatolian railway
Selimiye Barracks. It still contains battles at Gallipoli (see pp172–3) line, which was built in 1873,
some of the original furniture and during World War II in ran from here to İznik (see p164).
and the famous lamp which the Middle East. The extension of this railway was a
major part of Abdül Hamit II’s drive
to modernize the Ottoman Empire.
Florence Nightingale Lacking sufficient funds, he applied
The British nurse Florence Nightingale (1820–1910) was a tireless for help to his German ally,
campaigner for hospital, military and social reform. During the Kaiser Wilhelm II. The Deutsche
Crimean War, in which Britain and France fought on the Ottoman Bank agreed to invest in the
side against the Russian Empire, she organized a party of 38 British construction and operation of the
nurses. They took charge of medical services at the Selimiye Barracks railway. In 1898 German engineers
in Scutari (Üsküdar) in 1854. By the time she returned to Britain in were contracted to build the
1856, at the end of the war, the mortality rate in the barracks had new railway lines running across
decreased from 20 to 2 per cent, and the fundamental principles Anatolia and beyond into the far
of modern nursing had been established. On her return home, reaches of the Ottoman Empire.
Florence Nightingale opened a training school for nurses.
Construction on Haydarpaşa,
the grandest of these, started in
1906. Its two German architects,
Otto Ritter and Helmut Conu,
chose to build on a grand scale,
using a Neo-Classic German style.
Work was completed in 1908.
The station ceased operations
following the fire of 2010.
Its future remains unclear, but
there are plans to use the
station as the terminal of a
A 19th-century painting of Florence Nightingale in Selimiye Barracks new high-speed rail line
between Istanbul and Ankara.
The Bosphorus Trip Black Sea
One of the great pleasures of a visit to Istanbul is

a cruise up the Bosphorus. It is relaxing and offers
a great vantage point from which to view the city’s
s
oru
famous landmarks. You can go on a prearranged
s ph
guided tour or take one of the small boats that ISTANBUL
Bo
tout for passengers at Eminönü. But the best way

to travel is on the official trip run by Istanbul Şehir Locator Map
Hatları (SH, see p399). The SH ferry makes a round- Saiyer
trip to the upper Bosphorus once or twice daily,
stopping at six piers along the way, including a
Büyükdere
leisurely stop at Anadolu Kavağı for lunch. You can
return to Eminönü on the same boat or make
your way back to the city by bus, dolmuş or taxi.
The route shown here is the full Bosphorus Cruise.
Sadberk Hanım Museum
Housed in two yalıs (see p35),
this private museum contains
ethnographic displays and a
Fortress of
private archaeology
Europe
collection.
Situated at the
narrowest point on
the Bosphorus, this
fortress was built
by Mehmet II in
1452 as a prelude
to his invasion of
Constantinople.
Dolmabahçe
Palace
This opulent
J
19th-century
J
Baroque palace
is a symbol of
Ottoman grandeur.
Arnavutköy
Bosphoris
Bridge
Cengelköy
Ortaköy
İnönü
Stadium
J
Beşiktaş İskele
Mosque
Kabatas Üsküdar
Karaköy
Eminönü
View of the City Leander’s
As the ferry departs, you have a view of Tower
many of the old monuments of Istanbul, Harem
including Süleymaniye Mosque.
FURTHER AFIELD 131
Map 5 D2.
Rumeli n SH, Eminönü Pier 3 (Boğaz
Kavaği Hattı), (0212) 444 18 51.
∑ sehirhatlari.com.tr
J Transport
g The SH ferries operate
Anadolu Anadolu Kavağı between the major terminals
Kavaği The last stop on the trip brings you to every 20 or 30 minutes (but the
this village and a ruined 14th-century service is more limited on the
Byzantine fortress, the Genoese Castle. upper reaches of the Bosphorus).
Alternatively, organized private
tours last around 2–3 hours and
turn back just before the Fatih
Sultan Mehmet Bridge. Book and
board just west of the Eminönü
ferry piers. Hotels can arrange a
tour aboard a luxury cruise boat.
Huber Beykoz
Köşkü
Beykoz
Beykoz is the largest fishing
Yeniköy village along the Asian
shore. Situated in the village
Paşabahçe square is this fountain
dating from 1746.
İstinye
J
Çubuklu
Kanlica
Fatih Sultan
Mehmet Bridge
Yeniköy
Fortress of Handsome 19th-
Asia century yalıs line the
waterfront of this
ancient village. It was
invaded by Cossacks
Kandilli who crossed the Black
Sea in 1624.
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1
Fortress of Asia
Fifty years older than the
Fortress of Europe, this
fortress was built by Sultan
Beyazıt I just before the
failed Ottoman siege of
Constantinople in 1396–7.
Key
Motorway
Main road
Other road

palace to entertain dignitaries

and royalty. The Empress
Eugénie of France (wife of
Napoleon III) was a guest at the
palace in 1869 on her way to
the opening of the Suez Canal.
The Duke and Duchess of
Windsor also visited Beylerbeyi.
The fountains, baths and
colonnades were meant to
impress, as were the lovely
frescoes of Ottoman warships.
To keep himself distracted,
Aziz also had a zoo built on the
site and, apparently, delighted
The Bosphorus suspension bridge between Ortaköy and Beylerbeyi in the flocks of ostriches and
several Bengal tigers. The zoo is
z Ortaköy x Bosphorus Bridge no longer there, but parts of the
Boğaziçi Köprüsü palace have been refurbished
Map 3 F2. @ 25E, 40, 41.
and restored to some of their
Ortaköy and Beylerbeyi. Map 3 F2.
Crouched at the foot of the @ 22, 22/RE, 25/E.
former elegance.
Bosphorus Bridge, the suburb Third-but-last of the line
of Ortaköy has retained a village Spanning the Bosphorus of sultans, the autocratic Abdül
feel. Life centres on İskele between the districts of Ortaköy Hamit II spent six years as a
Meydanı, the quayside square, and Beylerbeyi, this was the first prisoner in an anteroom of
which was once busy with bridge to be built across the the palace and died there,
fishermen unloading the day’s straits that divide Istanbul. virtually forgotten, after being
catch. Nowadays, though, Construction began in 1970, deposed in 1909.
Ortaköy is better known for its and the bridge was inaugurated There are superb views of
lively Sunday market, which on 29 October 1973, to coincide the palace from the Bosphorus,
crowds out the square and with the 50th anniversary of the from where the two prominent
surrounding streets, and its founding of the Turkish bathing pavilions – one for the
shops selling the varied wares Republic (see p62). It is 1,074 m Harem and the other for the
of local artisans. It is also the (3,524 ft) long, and is the world’s selamlık (the men’s quarters),
location for a thriving bar and ninth-longest suspension can best be seen.
café scene, which in the bridge. It reaches 64 m (210 ft) The most attractive room
summer is the hub of Istanbul’s above the water. is the reception hall, which
nightlife (see pp136–7). The Bosphorus is especially has a pool and fountain.
Mecidiye Mosque (better popular in summer, when cool
known as Ortaköy Cami), breezes waft off the water.
Ortaköy’s most impressive
landmark, sits on the waterfront.
It was built in 1853 by Nikoğos c Beylerbeyi Palace
Balyan, who was also Beylerbeyi Sarayı
responsible for Dolmabahçe
Abdullah Ağa Cad, Beylerbeyi Mahallesi,
Palace (see pp126–7).
Asian side. Tel (0216) 321 93 20. @ 15,
15B (from Üsküdar), 10 (from Beşiktaş).
 from Üsküdar. Open 8:30am–5pm
Tue–Wed & Fri–Sun. & 8 - =
Designed in the Baroque style

of the late Ottoman period,
Beylerbeyi Palace was built
between 1861 and 1865 by Ornate landing at the top of the stairs
members of the Balyan family in Beylerbeyi Palace
under the orders of Sultan
Abdül Aziz. A previous palace v Fortress of Asia
had stood here, and the gardens Anadolu Hisarı
were already laid out by Murat IV
Riyaziyeci Sokak (on the harbourfront),
in 1639. As the Ottoman empire
Asian side. Tel (0212) 263 53 05.
withered, palaces proliferated in
a flourish of grandeur and The Fortress of Asia was built
Ortaköy’s fashionable waterfront square showmanship. Abdül Aziz had around 1398 by Mehmet II’s
and ferry landing Beylerbeyi built as a pleasure grandfather, Sultan Yildirim
FURTHER AFIELD 133
The Fortress of Europe, built by Mehmet the Conqueror to enable him to capture Constantinople
Beyazıt I (1389–1402). It was the n Fortress of other building materials. One

Sultan’s trump card in his Europe thousand masons laboured
attempt to defend Constantin- Rumeli Hisarı on the walls alone. It was
ople from the haughty Venetians, completed in four months –
Yahya Kemal Cad 42, European side.
who walked a tightrope a considerable feat, given
Tel (0212) 263 53 05. @ 40 and
between consolidating their the steep terrain.
41 (from Taksim Square); 22, 22/RE,
territorial ambitions and trying The new fortress was
25/E (from Kabataş). Open 9am–5pm
to avoid conflicts that might Thu–Tue. &
garrisoned by a force of
threaten the riches of their Janissaries (see pp60–61), whose
lucrative Ottoman trade. In spite This fortress was built by troops trained their cannons
of the fortress as a deterrent, a Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 on the straits to prevent the
low-level war took place, lasting as his first step in the conquest passage of foreign ships. After
from 1463 to 1497. of Constantinople (see p58). they had sunk a Venetian vessel,
The Fortress of Asia is Situated at the narrowest point this approach to Constantinople
closed to the public, but the of the Bosphorus, the fortress was cut off. Following the
neighbourhood is one of controlled a major Byzantine conquest of the city, the fortress
Istanbul’s most charming and supply route. Across the straits lost its importance as a military
least affected by modern life. is Anadolu Hisarı, the Fortress base and was used as a prison,
of Asia, which was built in particularly for out-of-favour
the 14th century by Beyazıt I. foreign envoys and prisoners
b Sakıp Sabancı The Fortress of Europe’s layout of war. The structure was
Museum was planned by Mehmet himself. restored only in 1953.
While his grand vizier (see pp60– Today it is in excellent
Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi
61) and two other viziers were condition and is a pleasant
İstinye Cad 22, Emirgan 34467. each responsible for the building place for an afternoon outing.
Tel (0212) 277 22 00. @ 40, 41 of one of the three great towers, Some open-air theatre perfor-
from Taksim Sq; 22, 22/RE, 25/E the sultan took charge of the mances are staged here during
(from Kabataş). Open 10am–6pm walls. Local buildings were torn the Istanbul Festival of Arts
Tue, Thu, Fri, Sun; 10am–10pm down to provide the stones and and Culture (see p39).
Wed, Sat. 8 & 7 - =
∑ muze.sabanciuniv.edu
With a superb view over the Birds of the Bosphorus

Bosphorus, the Sakıp Sabancı In September and October,
Museum is also known as the thousands of white storks and
Horse Mansion (Altı Köşk). birds of prey fly over the Bosphorus
Exhibitions comprise over 400 on their way from their breeding
years of Ottoman calligraphy grounds in Eastern Europe to wintering
and other Koranic and secular regions in Africa. Large birds usually
art treasures. The collection of prefer to cross narrow straits like the
paintings is exquisite, with works Bosphorus rather than fly over an
by Ottoman court painters and expanse of open water such as the
Mediterranean. Among birds of prey
European artists enthralled with
on this route you can see the lesser-
Turkey. A Picasso exhibition in spotted eagle and the honey buzzard.
2005 made this museum the The birds also cross the straits in
first in Turkey to host a major spring on their way to Europe but,
solo exhibition of a Western before the breeding season, they The white stork, which migrates
artist. The museum continues are fewer in number. over the straits
to host must-see exhibitions.
134 I S TA N B U L
SHOPPING IN ISTANBUL
Istanbul’s shops and markets, crowded and under one roof, head for one of the city’s
noisy at most times of the day and year, sell modern shopping malls. Wherever you
a colourful mixture of goods from all over shop, be wary of imitations of famous
the world. The city’s most famous shopping brand products – even if they appear to
centre is the massive Grand Bazaar. Turkey be of a high standard and the salesman
is a centre of textile production, and maintains that they are authentic. Be
Istanbul has a wealth of carpet and fashion prepared to bargain where required:
shops. If you prefer to do all your shopping it is an important part of a shopping trip.
General Information Award-winning Bereket The Grand Bazaar is full of shops

Most shops trade from 9am to Halıcılık is the most reliable selling leather goods. Meb Deri,
8pm Monday to Saturday, and seller of antique carpets. Hazal for example, offers a good range
markets open at 8am. Large Halı, in Ortaköy, stocks a fine of fashion handbags and
shops and department stores collection of kilims. accessories, and Desa has an
open later in the morning. extensive range of both classic
The Grand Bazaar and Spice and fashionable designs.
Bazaar are open from 8:30am Fabrics
to 8pm. Malls are open from In addition to carpets and
10am to 10pm seven days a kilims, colourful fabrics in Jewellery
week. Details on payment, VAT traditional designs from all over The Grand Bazaar is the best
exemption, buying antiques Turkey and Central Asia are place to find gold jewellery –
and sending purchases home widely sold. Sivaslı Yazmacısı it is sold by weight, with only
appear on pp362–3. sells village textiles, headscarves a modest sum added for
and embroidered cloths. craftsmanship. The daily price
of gold is displayed in the shop
Carpets and Kilims windows. Other shops in the
In the Grand Bazaar (see Leather same area sell silver jewellery,
pp108–9), Şişko Osman has Turkish leatherwear, while not and pieces inlaid with precious
a good range of carpets, and always of the best quality hides, stones. Urart stocks collections
Galeri Şirvan sells Anatolian is durable, of good craftsman- of unique gold and silver
tribal kilims (rugs). ship and reasonably priced. jewellery inspired by the
designs of ancient civilizations.
Antikart specializes in restored
How to Bargain antique silver jewellery.
In up-market shops in Istanbul, bargaining is rare. However,
in the Grand Bazaar and the shops located in or around the old
city (Sultanahmet and Beyazıt) haggling is a must, otherwise you Pottery, Metal and
may be cheated. Bazaar shopkeepers, known for their abrasive Glassware
insistence, expect you to bargain. Take your time and decide Shops in the Grand Bazaar
where to buy after visiting a few shops selling similar goods. are stocked with traditional
The procedure is as follows: ceramics, including pieces
• You will often be invited inside and offered a cup of tea. Feel decorated with exquisite
free to accept, as this is the customary introduction to any kind
of exchange and will not oblige you to buy.
• Do not feel pressurized if the shopkeeper turns the shop upside
down to show you his stock – this is normal practice and most
salesmen are proud of their goods.
• If you are seriously interested in any item, be brave enough
to offer half the price you are asked.
• Take no notice if the shop-
keeper looks offended and
refuses, but raise the price
slightly, aiming to pay about
70–75 per cent of the
original offer. If that price is
really unacceptable to the
owner, he will stop bar-
gaining over the item and
turn your attention to other
Haggling over the price of a carpet merchandise in the shop. Brightly decorated candle lanterns in the
Grand Bazaar
S H O P P I N G I N I S TA N B U L 135
blue-and-white İznik designs (see pipes). At the Istanbul Crafts

p165). Other types of pottery come Centre you can see calligraphers
from Kütahya, which makes use at work. Rölyef in Beyoğlu, the
of a free style of decoration, and Book Bazaar and Sofa sell antique
Çanakkale, which features more and reproduction calligraphy,
modern designs. For a modern as well as ebru (marbled
piece of Kütahya ware, visit Iznik paintings) and reproductions
Classics, which sells handmade of Ottoman miniatures.
ceramics sourced from traditional
artisans. Most museum shops
also sell a good range of pottery. Bookshops
The Grand Bazaar and the Books written in English on
Cavalry Bazaar are centres of architecture, history, religion
the copper and brass trade and travel, as well as popular
and offer a huge selection. and classic fiction, can be found
For glassware, Paşabahçe, at Galeri Kayseri in the heart of International names alongside Turkish
the largest glass manufacturer Sultanahmet and at Homer shops in Akmerkez
in Turkey, offers the best range, Kitapevi in Beyoğlu.
and some exquisite, delicate Shopping Malls
pieces with gilded decoration. Istanbul’s modern shopping
Food, Drink, Herbs malls contain cinemas, “food
and Spices courts”, cafés and hundreds of
Handicrafts The Egyptian Bazaar (see p102), shops. The most popular are
Ideal gifts and souvenirs include also known as the Spice Bazaar, Akmerkez in Etiler, Demirören,
embroidered hats, waistcoats is the place to buy nuts, dried located in İstiklâl Caddesi, and
and slippers, inlaid jewellery fruits, herbs and spices, jams, Kanyon, which features 160 local
boxes, meerschaum pipes, prayer various herbal teas, and even and global brands. Seasonal sales
beads, alabaster ornaments, exotic delicacies such as caviar. take place mainly in clothes
blue-eye charms to ward off the The Galatasaray Fish Market shops, but also in department
evil eye and nargiles (bubble is excellent. stores and some speciality shops.
DIRECTORY
Carpets and Leather Paşabahçe Food, Drink,
Kilims 314 İstiklâl Cad, Herbs and Spices
Desa
Bereket Halıcılık 140 İstiklâl Cad, Beyoğlu. Beyoğlu. Map 1 A5. Antre Gourmet
Peykhane Cad, Map 1 A4. Tel (0212) 244 05 44. 40A Akarsu Cad,
Sultanahmet. Tel (0212) 243 37 86. Cihangir. Map 5 D1.
Map 5 D4. Meb Deri Handicrafts Tel (0212) 292 89 72.
Tel (0212) 517 46 77. 14/2 Abdi İspekci Cad, Kurukahveci
Galeri Şirvan Nişantası. Rölyef Mehmet Efendi
52–54 Halıcılar Cad, Map 1 C1. 16 Emir Nevruz Sok, 66 Tahmis Cad, Eminönü.
Grand Bazaar. Tel (0212) 576 26 10. Beyoğlu. Map 1 A4. Map 5 D1.
Map 4 C4. Tel (0212) 511 42 62.
Jewellery Tel (0212) 244 04 94.
Tel (0212) 520 62 24.
Şekerci Hacı Bekir
Hazal Halı Antikart Sofa 83 Hamidiye Cad,
27–9 Mecidiye Köprüsü 209 İstiklâl Cad, 85 Nuruosmaniye Cad, Eminönü. Map 5 D3.
Sok, Ortaköy. 32 Atlas Kuyumcular Cağaloğlu. Map 5 D4. Tel (0212) 522 06 66.
Map 3 F3. Çarşısı, Beyoğlu.
Tel (0212) 520 28 50.
Tel (0212) 261 72 33. Map 1 A4. Shopping Malls
Şişko Osman Tel (0212) 252 44 82.
Bookshops Akmerkez
49 Halıcılar Cad, Urart Nispetiye Cad, Etiler.
Grand Bazaar. 18 Abdi İpekçi Cad, Galeri Kayseri Tel (0212) 282 01 70.
Map 4 C4. Nişantaşı. Map 1 C1.
58 Divanyolu Cad,
Tel (0212) 528 35 48. Tel (0212) 246 71 94. Demirören
Sultanahmet. Map 5 D4. 54 İstiklâl Cad, Beyoğlu.
Fabrics Pottery, Metal Tel (0212) 512 04 56. Map 1 A5. Tel (0212) 249
and Glassware 99 99.
Sivaslı Yazmacısı Homer Kitapevi
57 Yağlıkçılar Sok, Iznik Classics Kanyon
Yeni Çarşı Cad 28,
Grand Bazaar. Arasta Çarşısı 67, 185 Büyükdere Cad,
Map 4 C4. Sultanahmet. Map 5 E5. Beyoğlu. Map 1 A4. Levent.
Tel (0212) 526 77 48. Tel (0212) 517 17 05. Tel (0212) 249 59 02. Tel (0212) 353 53 00.
136 I S TA N B U L
ENTERTAINMENT
IN ISTANBUL
Istanbul offers a great variety of leisure of all kinds. This area also has the highest
pursuits, ranging from arts festivals and concentration of cinemas in the city, and
folk music to belly dancing and nightclubs. numerous lively bars and cafés. Though
The most important cultural event is the Konya (see pp254–5) is the home of the
series of festivals organized by the Istanbul religious dervish order, productions of the
Foundation for Culture and the Arts between mystical whirling dervish dance are staged
March and November. Throughout the year, at the Mevlevi Monastery in Beyoğlu once a
traditional Turkish music, opera, ballet, month. Ortaköy, on the European shore of
Western classical music and plays are the Bosphorus, is another very popular venue
performed at Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall for dining, music and dancing. For a trip to
(CRR) and some other venues around the city. the beach on a hot day, the Princes’ Islands
Beyoğlu is the main centre for entertainment (see p162) are best.
Entertainment Guides Concerts are also held at smaller down the road from the Galata
A bimonthly magazine in venues across the city. Contact Tower. Babylon is arguably the
English, The Guide lists cultural the Sultanahmet Tourist best venue in Istanbul for world,
events and activities Office (see p83) rock and dance music, while
in the city, as does for details. Peyote is great for afficionados
Time Out Istanbul. Laser disc of alternative rock.
Entertainment screenings of
information and opera, ballet and
contact numbers classical music Traditional Turkish Music
are available in the performances and Dance
English Hürriyet Daily are held most Traditional Turkish music
News, as well as days at 2pm performed at the CRR includes
Turkish Airlines’ and 6pm at the Ottoman classical, mystical
in-flight magazine. Aksanat Cultural Sufi and Turkish folk music.
and Arts Centre. Fasıl is a popular form of
Entertainment guides It also sometimes traditional music that is best
Festivals available in Istanbul stages live plays enjoyed live in meyhanes
Five major annual and music recitals. (taverns) such as Kallavi. It is
festivals (theatre, film, music performed on the kanun (zither),
and dance, jazz, and a biennial as well as tambur and ud (both
fine arts exposition) are Booking Tickets similar to the lute). For the
organized by the Istanbul Most concert, theatre, arts and traditional folk sounds of
Foundation for Culture and the sports tickets can be booked Anatolia, try halk or Türkü music.
Arts. All tickets can be obtained by phone through Biletix (tel: At venues such as Munzur,
via telephone from the 0216 556 98 00). You can also soulful melodies are played
Istanbul Festival Committee go to the website at www. on long-necked lute-like
or at the individual biletix.com for more infor- instruments known as saz or
venues themselves. mation about ticket availability; bağlama. Galata Tower
Istanbul also hosts the Yapı the website also shows point of restaurant is an alternative
Kredi Arts, Akbank Jazz and sale outlets.
Efes Pilsen Blues festivals in
autumn each year.
During festivals a special bus Rock and Jazz
service runs between show Many of Istanbul’s clubs
venues and the city centre. and bars plays good live
music. Hayal Kahvesi is
a bar dedicated to jazz,
Western Classical Music rock and blues and has an
and Dance outdoor summer venue in
The Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Çubuklu. Nardis Jazz Club
Hall (CRR) stages Western is an atmospheric venue
classical music concerts and for domestic and interna-
hosts music and dance groups. tional acts, located just Folk dancing at the Kervansaray venue
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N I S TA N B U L 137
venue for Turkish folk music and Sports

dance, while belly dancing is a Main five-star hotels have good
nightclub attraction in Beyoğlu. swimming pools and welcome
Other places featuring top non-residents for a fee. Turks are
performers of traditional art are fanatical about football: Beşiktaş,
Kervansaray, Orient House Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray are
and Manzara. the league players.
Horse races take place at the
Veli Efendi Hipodromu on
Nightclubs weekends and Wednesdays.
A glitzy nightclub is the Sortie
Bar Restaurant, a bar-restaurant
complex popular with celebrities Children
and located in the centre of Classical concert in the church of Haghia Yildiz Park (see p125) has much
town. Its large outdoor space is a Eirene (see p78) to offer children, as does
must for hot summer nights. Its Miniatürk, with over 100
nearby neighbour Reina provides Turkish subtitles. Atlas and miniature replicas of Turkey’s
more of the same. For something Beyoğlu show mainly art-house famous cultural landmarks.
more youth-orientated, try the films. The first show is half-price.
pulsing sounds of Indigo, or the Many cinemas offer half-price
more sophisticated Mini Muzikhol. tickets on Wednesdays, and Late-Night Transport
students with a valid student The metro closes around
card are entitled to discounts. midnight, which is also when
Cinemas and Theatre Theatres stage local and the last buses and dolmuşes
The latest foreign films are on international plays, but only in run, but taxis are available all
circuit at the same time as in the Turkish. The theatre season runs night. For more information
rest of Europe, albeit with from September to June. see pp396–9.
DIRECTORY
Istanbul Festival Peyote Nightclubs Fenerbahçe FC
Committee Kameriye Sok 4, Balık Kızıltoprak, Kadıköy.
Pazarı, Beyoğlu. Indigo Tel (0216) 345 09 40.
Tel (0216) 454 15 55. Tel (0212) 251 43 98. Akarsu Sok 1/2, İstiklal
∑ iksv.org Cad, Beyoğlu. Map 1 A4. Galatasaray FC
Türk Telekom Arena, Şişli.
Traditional Tel (0212) 244 85 67.
Map 1 C2.
Western Classical Turkish Music
Music and Dance Mini Muzikhol Tel (0212) 305 19 01.
and Dance Soğancı Sok, Sıraselviler
Cad, Beyoğlu. Map 1 B4.
Veli Efendi
Aksanat Cultural Galata Tower Hipodromu
and Arts Centre Büyükhendek Cad, Tel (0212) 245 19 96.
Osmaniye, Bakırköy.
İstiklal Cad 16, Galata. Map 1 A1.
Sortie Bar Tel (0212) 444 08 55.
Taksim. Map 1 B4. Tel (0212) 213 81 80.
Restaurant
Tel (0212) 252 35 00. Kallavi Muallim Naci Cad 54, Children
CRR Kallavi Sok 20, Ortaköy. Map 3 F3.
Beyoğlu. Map 1 A4. Miniatürk
Gümüş Sok, Harbiye. Tel (0212) 327 85 85.
Tel (0212) 251 10 10. Imrahar Cad, Sütlüce.
Map 1 C1. Tel (0212) 222 28 82.
Tel (0212) 232 98 30. Kervansaray Cinemas
Cumhuriyet Cad 30,
Rock and Jazz Harbiye. Map 1 C2. Atlas
Tel (0212) 247 16 30. İstiklal Cad, Atlas Pasajı.
Babylon Map 1 B4.
Sehbender Sok 3, Asmali- Manzara Tel (0212) 252 85 76.
Conrad Hotel,
mescit, Tünel, Beyoğlu. Beyoğlu
Yıldız Cad, Beşiktaş.
Tel (0212) 292 73 68. Map 2 C3. İstiklal Cad 140, Halep-
Hayal Kahvesi Tel (0212) 227 30 00. Pasajı, Beyoğlu.
(Beyoğlu) Munzur Map 1 B4.
Büyükparmak Kapı Sok Hasnun Galip Sok, Tel (0212) 251 32 40.
19, Beyoğlu. Map 1 B4. Beyoğlu. Map 1 B4
Tel (0212) 244 25 28. Tel (0212) 245 46 69. Sports
Nardis Jazz Club Orient House Beşiktaş FC
Kuledibi Sok, Galata. Tiyatro Cad 27, Beyazıt. Spor Cad 92, Beşiktaş.
Map 5 D1. Map 4 C4. Map 2 A4.
Tel (0212) 244 63 27. Tel (0212) 517 61 63. Tel (0212) 227 87 80.
138 STREET FINDER
STREET FINDER
The map references that are given The map provided below shows
throughout this section refer to the the area covered by the six maps, and
maps on the following pages. Some the key lists the symbols that are used.
small streets with references may not be The first figure of the reference tells you
named on the map. References are also which map page to turn to; the letter
given for hotels (see pp330– 32), restau- and number indicate the grid reference.
rants (see pp346– 9), shops (see pp134–5) The map on the inside back cover shows
and entertainment venues (see pp136–7). public transport routes.
BO
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Hospital
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Railway station
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Museum of Fine Arts

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D
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OK
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YENİK K MS S OKA SOK

KU
-
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D Y
K E N N E Yenikapı
Sea of Marmara
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Galata Kulesi
OKÇU M
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DE
OK
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AM A D
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SOK
CADA PAŞA
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TO ELE Sİ
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L AL E S O K
S IP
DE
ND
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Sanat Müzesi
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OK A C Istanbul Modern
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Art Museum
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Yeraltı Mosque
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Galata Bridge Hardarpaşa
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Rüstem Paşa Camii 3
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D
Yeni Dİ 1
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CA
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HM
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FE R CA Istanbul Museum of
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KA
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Technology in Islam
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İstanbul
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Erkek
AR
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SULT AN MEK R K HÜ Archaeological
Bab-ı Ali
NK
Mahmut Paşa Camii OCA

ALEMD A
A
KÜ Museum
ŞU AŞ
Ğ
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A
KU TP
ET
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HİL
A
Mosque GÖKÇAY SOK D Cağaloğlu KO Porte Alay Köşkü Topkapı Palace
AH
NA
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M
PR
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Nuruosmaniye O Cağaloğlu Baths SOK

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Camii GÜ KA
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LA
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A
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CAD
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Caferağa Courtyard EŞ
BAB
Atik Ali YE
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Paşa Camii Çemberlitaş

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SO
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Atik Ali Constantine's ÇA M BA KA

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Paşa Mosque Column Mahmut II Türbesi ÇE N Aya Sofya I Carpet Museum
Tomb of Mahmut II CA Halı Müzesi
SI
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N
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Yerebatan Ahmet III Çeşmesi

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Binbirdirek Sarnıcı Fountain of Ahmet III

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Cistern of Basilica MEYAS

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Cistern YD OFY
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GEDIKPASA
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CAMİİ
SULTANAHMET NI
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Carpet Museum
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PİY
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Museum of Turkish
Ç
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and Islamic Arts

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B
YO
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SO
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ŞA
KB
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ŞEHİT M
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PA
AD EHMET A K
Cumhuriyet T AVUKHA CA
S OK
DD
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OK
GA SOK N
CA
Sokollu Mehmet Müzesi K IR E

IN Sİ
Şİ
IS
Mozaik Müzesi
İL
FA
I
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AN
LIM
Paşa Camii Museum of the

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D N TO R
H
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TA
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N
L
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K A RT K
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SULTANAHMET
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SOF AŞ
Paşa Mosque
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SO E
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CİN SOKA Ayasofya Camii SOK
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Church of SS Sergius
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and Bacchus
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C A D D E S Bucoleon Palace
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D
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AYI
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Yeni Valide Mosque
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M
K
TOSUNPAŞ
ET
K U K AĞ
A
İY
A
EK
SOKAĞI
SO
Y O L
YE RAK
D
HM
Ğ
SO
LI
HAFIZ-I
AK
ĞI
I
KA
Cİ İ-
İ
Kİ
SA
E
Sİ
ME
KA ÇIK
ES
DE
C A N
SO
CAD
I
Sİ
ME USU
A
Ç IÇ K AĞ I
U
E Ş İ NUH KUY
SO
Ç
SOKA
TI
BEY ES
EK
ŞA
B˙ B
D
ĞI
ŞE R
İF İ PAĞ I D
AV N
IY
ÇI
A CA
KA
SO K
SO
E
Ğİ
EC
NAN
LU
SO
LE
ĞI
CA
ZA
KON
KA
KE
KA
HA KARACAAHMET
ÇIK
SOK
İS
I AZ ĞI
NE
YO
MEZARLIĞI
SO
A
ĞI
ES
KLI
İ
A
K SO
M
IZ
O
EY S
D
DA KA KARACA AHMET
Sİ
İ B
S U PH YE ĞI
İİ
İL
NE
CEMETERY
M
EM
SE
H
K A V AK
CA
Sİ
Lİ
İR
SA
DE
EY
M
İ
AR
İY K AD
ES
ŞA
AD
ŞE E IN
H
Harem Rİ
HAREM
DD
E
H
LI
F A
İY
E K K A ĞT Ü
M SO
TIBB
I Ş¸ L I
AM KA
P
CA
M
SO ÜS
İ ĞI
Lİ
SE R V KU
BA
KA I
RK
SO ALT
İ KÖ YU
ĞI
SE
KÜ S
YI
PA
OK K S
RK
AH A
E
ME YU U
RI
K
EL
PA
İY
SO
M SO
Harem Otobüs ES
İ Ç ET S O
İYE
LİM
SO
KA
K
ISK
DD E R I ŞM K
AĞ
Terminali R
CA Ü L A Ğ E- Ğ
İ
BA SO
SE
I
İ
Harem Coach A MS O K ELE Ü CS O K KE KA
Y
K B Ğ
İS K B Ü N I İR
K
Station C
I
VA
E HA AD
C
İY D
İM ES
SEL
A
KA
İ
CA D D E S
ATÖLYELER
SOK
D
ES
Selimiye Kışlası
İ
Selimiye Barracks
İ
I S TA N B U L S T R E E T F I N D E R 145
Street Finder Index

In Turkish, Ç, Ğ, İ, Ö, Ş and Ü are Alemdar Cad 5 E3 B Börekçi Ali Sok 4 B4
listed as separate letters in the Ali Ağa Sok 1 A2 Bostan Hamamı Sok 4 B1
alphabet, coming after C, G, I, O, S Ali Hoca Sok 1 A5 B Kuyu Sok 3 E1 Bostan Sok 2 B2
and U, respectively. In this book, Ali Paşa Sok 5 E1 Baba Efendi Sok 2 B4 Bostanbaşı Cad 1 A5
however, Ç is treated as C for the Ali Suavi Sok 2 B3 Baba Hasan Sok 4 A3 Bostancı Veli Sok 2 C3
purposes of alphabetization and Alişan Sok 4 B5 Babadağı Sok 1 A2 Bostanı Sok 1 A2
so on with the other letters. Altı Asker Sok 1 A3 Babayiğit Sok 4 C5 Boyacı Ahmet Sok 5 D4
Hence Çiçek follows Cibinlik as if Altı Poğaça Sok 4 A1 Babıali Cad 5 D4 Bozdoğan Kemeri Cad 4 B3
both names began with C. Altın Bakkal Sok 1 B3 Babıhümayun Cad 5 E4 Bozkurt Cad 1 B1
Following standard Turkish Altıntaş Sok 2 B3 Babil Sok 1 B2 Buduhi Sok 1 A1
practice we have abbreviated Ambar Sok 6 B5 Bakıcı Sok 6 B2 Bukalı Dede Sok 4 A3
Sokak to Sok, Caddesi to Cad and Ambarlı Dere Sok 3 E1 Bakırcılar Cad 4 C3 Bükücüler Hanı Sok 6 B5
Çıkmazı to Çık. Amca Bey Sok 3 F1 Bakkal Bekir Sok 6 B4 Bulgurcu Sok 3 F2
Amiral Tafdil Sok 5 E5 Bakraç Sok 1 B4 Bulgurlu Mescit Sok 6 B2
Balaban Cad 6 B2
A Ana Çeşmesi Sok 1 B3
Balçık Sok 6 B2
Büyük Bayram Sok 1 A4
Anadolu Sok 1 B4 Büyük Çiftlik Sok 2 A2
Abacı Dede Sok 6 C3 Ankara Cad 5 D3 Balcılar Yok 6 C4 Büyük Hamam Sok 6 B2
Abacı Latif Sok 2 A4 Arakiyeci Çık 6 C4 Bali Paşa Yokuşu 4 C4 Büyük Haydar Efendi Sok 4 B4
Abanoz Sok 1 A4 Arakiyeci Sok 6 C4 Balık Sok 1 A4 Büyük Karaman Cad 4 A2
Abbasaşa Kuyu Sok 2 B3 Arapzade Ahmet Sok 4 C5 Balo Sok 1 A4 Büyük Reşit Paşa Cad 4 B4
Abdi İpekçi Cad 2 A3 Arasta Çarşısı 5 E5 Baltabaş Sok 1 A2 Büyük Selim Paşa Cad 6 C3
Abdi Ipekçi Cad 1 C1 Arayıcı Sok 4 C5 Balyoz Sok 1 A5 Büyük Şişhane Sok 1 A3
Abdül Feyyaz Sok 6 C2 Armağan Sok 2 A3 Barbaros Bulvarı 2 C3
Abdülezel Paşa Cad 4 B1 Barbaros Sok 2 C1
Abdülhak Hamit Cad 1 B3
Arslan Sok 1 A4
Barış Sok 2 B2
C
Arslan Yatağı Sok 1 B4
Abdullah Taksim Sok 1 B4 Asama Kandil Sok 4 C4 Basak Sok 4 B3 Çadırcı Camii Sok 4 C5
Abdülselah Sok 5 D1 Aşir Efendi Cad 5 D3 Baş Musahip Sok 5 D4 Çadırcılar Cad 4 C4
Açık Tübbe Sok 6 B3 Asker Ocağı Cad 1 C3 Başağa Çeşmesi Sok 1 B4 Caferiye Sok 5 E4
Açık Türbe Çık 6 B3 Asker Sok 4 B4 Batarya Sok 1 B5 Cağaloğlu Yokuşu 5 D3
Açık Yol Sok 1 A2 Asmalı Han Sok 4 C5 Batumlu Sok 4 B5 Çakmak Sok 1 A3
Açıklar Sok 4 A3 Asmalı Mescit Sok 1 A5 Bayır Sok 1 A1 Çakmakçılar Sok 4 C3
Acısu Sok 2 A4 Asmalı Sok 6 A2 Baylıdım Cad 2 A4 Çakmaktaşı Sok 4 C5
Adliye Sok 5 E4 Aşçıbası Mektebi Sok 6 C4 Bayram Fırını Sok 5 E5 Çalı Sok 1 A1
Afacan Sok 2 B3 Aşık Kerem Sok 2 B1 Baysungur Sok 1 B1 Cambaz Ali Sok 6 C2
Ağa Çeşmesi Sok 4 B4 Aşık Paşa Sok 4 A1 Behçet Necatigil Sok 2 B3 Camcıfeyzi Sok 1 A5
Ağa Çırağı Sok 1 C4 Aşıklar Sok 1 B3 Behran Çavuş Sok 4 C5 Camekan Sok 5 D1
Ağa Hamamı Sok 1 B4 Astar Sok 4 A1 Bekçi Mahmut Sok 1 A2 Cami Meydanı Sok 5 D2
Ağa Yokuşu Sok 4 A3 Asya Sok 4 B5 Bekçi Sok 2 B2 Cami Sok 2 A2
Ağızlıkçı Sok 4 C3 Atatürk Bulvarı 4 B2 Bektaş Sok 6 C3 Camii Sok 5 D4
Ahalı Sok 6 A3 Ates Böceği Sok 1 A2 Bereketzade Sok 5 D1 Çamlik Kuyu Sok 3 E1
Ahır Kapı Sok 5 E5 Atlamatası Cad 4 B2 Beşaret Sok 1 C4 Canbazoğlu Sok 1 B3
Ahmet Fetgeri Sok 2 A2 Atlas Çik 6 B2 Beşiktaş Boğaziçi Köprüsü Cankurtaran Cad 5 E5
Ahmet Şuayip Sok 4 B4 Atlas Sok 6 B2 Baglantı Yolu 3 D1 Çapari Sok 4 C5
Ahududu Sok 1 B4 Atmeydanı Sok 5 D4 Beşiktaş Cad 2 B4 Çardak Cad 4 C2
Akarsu Yokuşu 1 B5 Atölyeler Sok 6 C5 Beşiktaş Kireçhane Sok 2 B3 Çarık Sok 1 B2
Akbıyık Cad 5 E5 Atpazarı Sok 4 A2 Beşiktas Yalı Sok 2 C4 Çarkçılar Sok 5 D3
Akbıyık Değirmeni Sok 5 E5 Avni Paşa Sok 6 B4 Besim Ömer Paşa Cad 4 B3 Çarşı Sok 4 C3
Akburçak Sok 5 D5 Avşar Sok 1 A2 B Hayrettin Cad 2 C4 Çarşıkapı Cad 4 C4
Akdoğan Sok 2 C3 Ayasofya Meydanı 5 E4 Bestekar Ahmet Çatal Çeşme Sok 5 D4
Akif Paşa Sok 4 B3 Ayaydın Sok 3 E1 Çagan Sok 3 E2 Çatıkkaş Sok 1 A4
Akkarga Sok 1 B2 Ayazma Deresi Sok 2 B1 Bestekar Selahattin Çatlak Çeşme Sok 2 B3
Akkavak Sok 2 A2 Aydede Cad 1 B3 Pınar Sok 6 B4 Çavdar Sok 1 A2
Akkiraz Sok 1 A3 Aydın Bey Sok 4 A1 Bestekar Şevki Bey Sok 3 D1 Çavdarcı Sok 2 A4
Akkirman Sok 2 A1 Aydınlık Sok 3 F2 Bestekar Sok 2 B1 Çavuşdere Cad 6 C3
Akmaz Çeşme Sok 2 C3 Ayhan Işık Sok 2 A1 Beyazıt Karakol Sok 4 C4 Çayırlı Sok 3 E1
Aksakal Sok 5 D5 Ayın Sok 6 C3 Beyazıt Külhanı Sok 4 B4 Çayıroğlu Oğul Sok 5 D5
Aksaray Cad 4 A4 Aynacılar Sok 4 C3 Beygirciler Sok 6 C3 Çaylak Sok 1 B3
Aksaray Hamamı Sok 4 A4 Ayşe Kadın Hamamı Sok 4 B3 Beytül Malcı Sok 1 C4 Cebel Topu Sok 1 B2
Aktar Sok 3 E2 Azak Sok 1 A2 Bezciler Sok 5 D3 Cedidiye Sok 2 C2
Al Boyacılar Sok 4 A5 Azap Çeşmesi Sok 4 B2 Bıçakçı Çeşmesi Sok 4 B2 Çekirdek Sok 2 B3
Ala Geyik Cad 5 E1 Azat Çık 6 B2 Bilezikçi Sok 1 B1 Celal Ferdi Gökçay Sok 5 D3
Alaca Camii Sok 4 A4 Azat Yok 6 B2 Billurcu Sok 1 B4 Cemal Nadir Sok 5 D3
Alaca Hamam Cad 5 D3 Azep Askeri Sok 4 B2 Boğaziçi Köprüsü Çevre Cemal Yener Tosyalı Cad 4 B3
Aladoğan Sok 3 E2 Azimkar Sok 4 A4 Yolu 3 E1 Cemre Sok 4 C5
Alayköşkü Cad 5 E4 Aziz Efendi Mektebi Sok 6 B3 Boğazkesen Cad 1 B5 Çesnici Sok 5 D3
Albay Sadi Alantar Sok 2 A1 Aziz Mahmut Efendi Sok 6 B2 Bol Ahenk Nuri Sok 6 C4 Çeşme-I Cedid Sok 6 A2
Alçak Dam Sok 1 C4 Azizlik Sok 6 C2 Bol Ahenk Sok 1 C4 Çeşme-i Kebir Cad 6 B5
146 I S TA N B U L S T R E E T F I N D E R
Çevirmeci Sok 3 E2 Devirhan Çeşmesi Sok 4 B2 Eski Çiçekçi Sok 1 A4 Gül Sok 6 C1
Cezayir Cad 2 C4 Devşir Meler Sok 1 A2 Eski Ekmekçibaşı Sok 6 C4 Gülfem Sok 6 B2
Cezmi Sok 4 A4 Dibek Sok 1 A5 Eski Karakış Sok 2 B1 Gülleci Sok 1 A2
Cibali Cad 4 B1 Dık Sok 5 D1 Eski Kerestecıler Sok 6 B2 Gültekin Arkası Sok 3 F2
Cibinlik Sok 3 E2 Dikilitaş Camii Eski Mahkeme Sok 6 B2 Gültekin Sok 3 E2
Çiçek Pazarı 5 D2 Meydanı Sok 2 B1 Eski Mutaflar Sok 4 A2 Gümrük Emini Sok 4 A4
Çiçekçi Sok 6 B4 Dikilitaş Çık 2 B1 Eski Yıldız Cad 2 C3 Gümrük Sok 5 E1
Çifte Gelinler Cad 4 C5 Dikilitaş Sok 2 B1 Esrar Dede Sok 4 A1 Gümüş Küpe Sok 1 A4
Çifte Vav Sok 1 C4 Dilbaz Sok 1 A3 Eşref Efendi Sok 1 B1 Gümüş Sok 1 C2
Cihangir Cad 1 B4 Dilber Sok 2 B2 Eşrefsaati Sok 6 A2 Gündoğumu Cad 6 B3
Cihangir Yokuşu 1 C5 Dinibütün Sok 4 A1 Esvapçı Sok 6 B3 Güneşli Sok 1 B4
Cıhannüma Sok 2 C3 Direkçibaşı Sok 1 A2 Ethem Ağa Sok 6 C2 Gürcü Kızı Sok 3 F2
Çılavcı Sok 4 C5 Direkli Camii Sok 4 C4 Ethem Paşa Sok 6 B4 Güvenlik Cad 4 A4
Çimen Sok 1 B2 Divan-I Ali Sok 4 C4 Evkaf Sok 5 D4 Güzel Bahçe Sok 2 A2
Cinci Meyd Sok 5 D5 Divanyolu Cad 5 D4
Çıngıraklı Bostan Sok 4 A3 Divitçiler Cad 6 C4 F H
Çinili Camii Sok 6 C3 Divitçiler Çık 6 C4
Çinili Tekke Sok 6 C3 Dizdariye Medresesı Sok 5 D4 Fadıl Arif Sok 1 A2 Hacı Ahmet Paşa Çık 6 A3
Çıracı Sok 5 E1 Dizdariye Yok 5 D4 Faik Paşa Yok 1 B4 Hacı Emin Efendi Sok 2 A2
Çırağan Cad 3 D3 Dizi Sok 2 B3 Fakir Sok 1 A4 Hacı Emın Paşa Sok 6 B4
Çırakçı Çeşmeşı Sok 4 A1 Doğancılar Cad 6 A3 Farabi Sok 1 B3 Hacı Hasan Sok 4 A2
Çırçır Cad 4 A2 Doğancılar Cad 6 B2 Fatih Türbesi Sok 4 A2 Hacı Hesna Sok 6 C1
Çitlenbik Sok 2 C3 Doğr Şakir Sok 1 B3 Fazilet Sok 4 A2 Hacı İlbey Sok 1 A2
Çobanoğlu Sok 1 A1 Dökmecıler Hamamı Sok 4 C2 Fenerli Kapı Sok 5 E5 Hacı Kadın Bastanı Sok 4 B2
Cömertler Sok 4 C5 Dökmeciler Sok 4 C3 Ferah Sok 2 A1 Hacı Kadın Cad 4 B2
Çömezler Sok 2 C3 Dolambaç Sok 6 B4 Ferah Sok 6 C3 Hacı Mutlu Sok 6 C2
Çopur Ahmet Sok 3 E2 Dolap Cad 4 A3 Ferhat Ağa Sok 4 A2 Hacı Ömer Paşa Sok 4 A2
Corbaçı Sok 1 B3 Dolapdere Cad 1 A3 Feridiye Cad 1 B3 Hacı Şevket Sok 6 C4
Çorbacıbaşı Sok 4 A5 Dolmabahçe Cad 2 A4 Feriköy Baruthane Cad 1 B1 Hacı Zeynel Sok 1 A2
Çoruh Sok 2 A1 Dolmabahçe Gazhanesi Fesleğen Çık 1 A3 Hadımodaları Sok 4 A5
Çoşkun Sok 1 B5 Cad 2 A4 Fesleğen Sok 1 A3 Hafız Ali Paşa Çık 6 A3
Cüce Çeşmesi Sok 4 B3 Dönmedolap Sok 6 B4 Fethi Bey Cad 4 B4 Hafız-ı Kurra Sok 6 B4
Cudi Çık 3 E1 Dörtyüzlü Çeşme Sok 2 C2 Fetva Yokuşu Sok 4 C2 Hafız Mehmet Bey Sok 6 A4
Cudi Efendi Sok 3 E2 Dr Eyüp Aksoy Cad 6 C5 Fevziye Cad 4 B3 Hakimiyeti Milliye Cad 6 B2
Çuhacıoğlu Sok 4 A5 Dr Sıtkı Özferendeci Sok 6 B4 Fil Yokuşu Sok 4 B2 Halaskargazi Cad 1 C1
Çukur Bostan Sok 1 A5 Dümen Sok 1 C3 Fincancılar Sok 5 D3 Halepli Bekir Sok 1 A3
Çukur Çeşme Sok 4 A4 Dünya Sağlık Sok 1 C4 Fındık Kıran Sok 4 B5 Haliç Cad 4 A1
Çukurcuma Cad 1 B5 Dürbali Sok 6 C2 Fındıkçılar Sok 5 D2 Halıcılar Sok 4 C4
Cumhuriyet Cad 1 C2 Duvarcı Adem Sok 1 B3 Fıstıklı Köşk Sok 3 E2 Halk Cad 6 B3
Cumhuriyet Cad 6 C2 Duvarcı Sok 1 B3 Fitil Sok 1 A2 Halk Dershanesi Sok 6 A3
Duvarcı Sok 3 F2 Fransız Hastanesi Sok 1 C1 Hamalbaşı Cad 1 A4
Hamamı Sok 4 A1
D Fuat Paşa Cad 4 C3
Hamanı Sok 5 D4
Daci Sok 1 A1
E Fulya Bayırı Sok 2 A1
Hamidiye Cad 5 D3
Fulya Deresi Sok 2 B2
Dağarcık Sok 4 A4 Ebürrıza Dergahı Sok 1 A3 Fütuhat Sok 5 D1 Hanedan Sok 4 A1
Dalbastı Sok 5 E5 Ebussuut Cad 5 E3 Hanımeli Sok 5 D3
Dalfes Sok 1 A3 Eczacı Sok 1 A1 Haraççı Ali Sok 5 D1
G
Daltaban Yok Sok 4 B4 Eczahane Sok 6 B4 Harbiye Çayırı Sok 1 B2
Darı Sok 6 A2 Eğri Eski Konak Sok 2 C3 Galata Kulesi Sok 5 D1 Harem Ağası Sok 2 B3
Darülelhan Sok 4 B3 Ekmek Fab Sok 2 A1 Galata Mumhanesi Cad 5 E1 Harem Sahil Yolu 6 A5
Darülhadis Sok 4 B2 Elmadağ Cad 1 B2 Galip Dede Cad 1 A5 Harem Selimiye
Darüssade Sok 5 E3 Elmasağacı Sok 6 B2 Garaj Yolu Sok 1 A1 Hamamı Sok 6 B5
Davutoğlu Sok 6 A3 Elmastıraş Sok 1 A3 Gazhane Bostanı Sok 1 C3 Harikzedeler Sok 4 B4
Daye Kadın Sok 6 B5 Elvanizade Camii Sok 4 B1 Gazi Refik Sok 2 B3 Has Fırın Cad 2 C3
Dayı Sok 1 A1 Elvanlar Sok 4 B1 Gazi Sinan Paşa Sok 5 D4 Has Odalar Çık 6 C4
Dede Efendi Cad 4 B3 Emin Ongan Sok 6 B3 Gazi Umur Paşa Sok 2 C1 Hasan Baba Sok 4 A2
Defterdar Yokuşu 1 B5 Emin Sinan 4 C4 Gazino Sok 2 B3 Hasan Bey Sok 6 C4
Dellalzade Sok 3 D1 Emirhan Cad 2 C1 Gedikpaşa Cad 4 C4 Hasan Cevdet Paşa Sok 2 A1
Demirbaş Sok 1 A3 Emirname Sok 5 D3 Gedikpaşa Fırını Sok 4 C4 Hasbahçe Sok 6 A2
Den Sok 1 A1 Enfiyehane Sok 6 A3 Gel Sok 2 C1 Hasırcı Veli Sok 2 C3
Dere Sok 2 A1 Enis Akaygen Sok 2 B3 Gelenbevı Müftü Sok 4 A1 Hasret Sok 3 E2
Dereotu Sok 1 A3 Enli Yokuşu 1 B5 Gelin Alayı Sok 6 B3 Haşnun Galip Sok 1 B4
Dericiler Sok 1 B2 Er Meydanı Sok 1 A2 Gelinicik Sok 2 C1 Hatmi Sok 6 C3
Derin Kuyu Sok 4 B4 Erdoğan Sok 5 E3 Gençtürk Cad 4 A3 Hattat İzzet Sok 4 A1
Derne Sok 2 B3 Eregemen Sok 6 A3 Genis Yokuş Sok 1 A3 Hattat Nazif Sok 4 A2
Dernek Sok 1 B3 Erkan-ı Harp Sok 1 A5 Gerdanlık Sok 4 C5 Hattat Tahsin Sok 2 B3
Ders Vekili Sok 4 A2 Esenler Sok 2 A1 Giriftzen Asım Çık 6 B3 Hava Sok 1 B4
Dershane Sok 1 C1 Eski Bahçe Sok 3 F2 Göknar Sok 2 B2 Havancı Sok 4 C3
Dervişler Sok 5 E3 Eski Belediye Önü Sok 6 B3 Göktaş Sok 5 D4 Havyar Sok 1 B5
Deryadil Sok 2 A2 Eski Çeşme Sok 1 B3 Gül Sok 2 A1 Haydar Bey Sok 4 A2
Haydar Cad 4 A2 İskele Cad 6 B4 Katip Çeşmesi Sok 4 A5 Kumluk Sok 4 C5

Haydar Hamamı Sok 4 B1 İsmail Sefa Sok 4 B5 Katip Kasım Bostanı Sok 4 A5 Kumrulu Sok 1 B5
Hayrı Efendi Cad 5 D2 İsmetiye Cad 4 C3 Katip Kasım Camii Sok 4 A4 Kumrulu Yok 1 B4
Hayrıef Cad 5 D3 İstasyan Arkası Sok 5 E3 Katip Semsettin Sok 4 B2 Kurabiye Sok 1 B4
Hayriye Hanım İstiklal Cad 1 A5 Katip Sok 6 C4 Kurban Sok 4 C5
Kepenekçi Sok 4 C2 İtfaiye Cad 4 A3 Katmerli Sok 1 A2 Kurdele Sok 1 A3
Hayriye Sok 1 A4 İttihat Sok 6 B3 Kavak İskele Cad 6 C5 Kurdele Sok 1 A4
Hednek Cad 1 A5 Itri Sok 3 D1 Kavaklı Bayırı Sok 6 B5 Kurşunlu Medrese Sok 6 B2
Helvacı Ali Sok 6 C3 İzzet Paşa Sok 2 A5 Kavaklı İskele Sok 6 B2 Kurtuluş Cad 1 B1
Hemsire Sok 4 B5 Kavalalı Sok 4 A3 Kurtuluş Sok 1 A3
Hemşehri Sok 4 B5 J Kavuncu Hasan Sok 1 A3 Kuruçeşme Kireçhane Sok 3 F1
Hercai Sok 3 E2 Kaya Hatun Sok 1 C1 Kürüçübası Mekebi Sok 4 C5
Himmet Baba Sok 6 C3 Jandarma Mektebi Sok 2 B2 Kaypakoğlu Sok 3 F1 Kurultay Sok 4 B4
Himmet Sok 4 B3 Kaytancı Rasim Sok 1 B2 Kuruntu Sok 6 A3
Hisar Altı Sok 4 B1 K Kayum Ahmet Sok 6 B5 Kuşoğlu Yokuşu 6 C2
Hızır Külhani Sok 4 B2 Kazancı Yokuşu 1 C4 Kutlu Sok 1 C4
Kabadayı Sok 1 A3
Hoca Hanı Sok 5 D3 Kazancılar Cad 4 C2 Kutlugün Sok 5 E4
Kabalak Sok 3 E2
Hoca Hanım Sok 5 D1 Kemal Türel Sok 2 B2 Kutucular Cad 4 C2
Kabaskal Cad 5 E4
Hoca Tahsin Sok 5 E1 Kemalettin Camii Sok 4 C4 Kuyu Sok 1 B4
Kabile Sok 6 B3
Hora Sok 2 C1 Kemankeş Cad 5 E1 Kuyu Sok 6 C2
Kadı Çeşmeşi Sok 4 A1
Horhor Cad 4 A3 Kemeraltı Cad 5 E1 Kuyulu Bostanı Sok 2 A2
Kadırga Hamamı Sok 4 C5
Hortumcu Sok 1 A3 Kenan Bey Sok 4 B5 Kuyumcular Cad 4 C4
Kadırga Limanı Cad 4 C5
Hostes Rana Altınay Sok 2 A2 Kendir Sok 4 A2 Kuzukulağı Sok 1 B3
Kadırga Limanı Cad 5 D5
Hüdai Mahmut Sok 6 B3 Kennedy Cad 4 A5
Kadırgalar Cad 1 C2
Keresteci Hakkı Sok 5 E5
Hükümet KonağI Sok 5 E3
Kadırgalar Cad 2 A4 L
Hünnap Sok 6 C4 Keresteci Recep Sok 1 B3
Kadirler Yokuşu 1 B5 Lala Şahin Sok 1 A1
Hüsam Bey Sok 4 A2 Kerpiç Sok 4 B1
Kafesli Çadır Çık 4 C4 Lâleli Cad 4 A4
Hüseyin Baykara Sok 6 C1 Kessem Sok 6 B2
Kahya Bey Sok 1 A3 Laleli Çeşme Sok 5 D1
Hüseyin Hüsnü Paşa Sok 6 C3 Keşşaf Sok 2 C2
Kakmacı Sok 4 A4 Lamartin Cad 1 B3
Hüseyin Remzi Bey Sok 4 A1 Kıble Çesme Cad 4 C2
Kaleci Sok 5 D5 Langa Bostanları Sok 4 A4
Hüsnü Sayman Sok 2 C3 Kılburnu Sok 1 B3
Kalender Camii Sok 4 B3 Langa Hisarı Sok 4 A5
Hüsrev Gerede Cad 2 A3 Kimyager Derviş Paşa Sok 4 B4
Kalender Mektebi Sok 4 B3 Langa Karakolu Sok 4 A4
Kınalı Keklik Sok 1 B2
Kalıpçı Sok 2 A3 Leman Sok 1 B3
Kirazlı Mescit Sok 4 B3
I Kallavi Sok 1 A4
Kırbaççı Sok 4 A2 Lenger Sok 1 B5
İbadethane Sok 4 A2 Kalyoncu Kulluğu Cad 1 A3 Kirişci Sok 6 C2 Leylak Sok 2 C1
İbni Kemal Cad 5 E3 Kameriye Sok 1 A4 Kırkahyası Sok 1 A2 Leylek Yuvası Sok 3 E1
İbrahim Paşa Yokuşu 4 C4 Kamil Paşa Sok 4 A3 Kırma Tulumba Sok 4 A3 Liva Sok 1 B4
Ihlamur Nişantaşı Yolu 2 A2 Kani Paşa Sok 4 B1 Kırmız Sok 3 E2 Lokumcu Sok 1 A2
Ihlamur Teşvikiye Yolu 2 A2 Kanısıcak Sok 4 A1 Kıyak Sok 4 A1 Loşbahçe Sok 2 B3
Ihlamur Yıdır Cad 2 B2 Kantarcılar Cad 4 C2 Kızıltaş Sok 4 B4 Lozan Sok 3 E2
Ihlamur-Yildar Cad 2 B2 Kanuni Medresesi Sok 4 B3 Kıztaşı Cad 4 A3 Lüleci Hendek Cad 5 E1
İhsaniye İskelesi Sok 6 A4 Kapanca Sok 1 B3 Klodfarer Sok 5 D4 Lütfü Efendi Sok 4 A3
İhsaniye Bostanı Sok 6 B4 Kapı Ağası Sok 5 E5 Koca Ragıp Cad 4 B4 Lütfullah Sok 4 C3
İhsanıye Sok 6 A3 Kapı Çık Sok 6 B3 Kocabaş Sok 1 A2
İhtıyatlı Sok 4 A2 Kapıkulu Sok 1 A5
Kaptan Paşa Camii Sok 6 B2
Koçi Bey Sok 4 A4 M
İİlhan Sok 2 B3 Koçyigit Sok 1 A3
İlyas Çelebi Sok 1 C5 Kaptan Paşa Sok 6 A2 Kokoroz Sok 1 A2 M Karaca Sok 3 E2
Ihlamur Deresi Cad 2 B3 Kaputçular Sok 5 D3 Konaklı Çık 6 B4 Maç Sok 1 B4
İmam Adnan Sok 1 B4 Kara Hasan Sok 3 D1 Kopça Sok 4 A1 Macar Kardeşler Cad 4 A3
İmam Hüsnü Sok 6 C1 Kara Kurum Sok 1 A3 Köprülü Konak Sok 6 B4 Maçka Aktarlar Sok 2 A3
İmam Murat Sok 4 A4 Kara Sarıklı Sok 4 A1 Körbakkal Sok 6 C4 Maçka Cad 2 A3
İmam Nasır Sok 6 B2 Karabaş Cad 1 B5 Koska Cad 4 B4 Maçka Meydanı Sok 2 A3
Imam Niyazi Sok 4 A2 Karabaş Deresi Sok 1 A5 Kovacılar Sok 4 A2 Macuncu Sok 5 D3
Imaret Sabunhanesi Sok 4 B2 Karabatak Sok 1 B2 Köyiçi Cad 2 B3 Mahfil Sok 4 A4
Imrahor Çeşmesı Sok 6 A3 Karacaoğlan Sok 6 B2 Kozacık Sok 2 A1 Mahmutpaşa Yokuşu 5 D3
İmran Öktem Cad 5 D4 Karadeniz Cad 4 A1 Küçük Akarca Sok 1 B2 Mali Bey Sok 2 C3
İnadiye Cami Sok 6 B4 Karaka Sok 1 B3 Küçük Ayasofya Cad 5 D5 Maliye Cad 5 E1
İnadiye Camii Nasrettin Karakaş Sok 3 E2 Küçük Bayır Sok 1 B2 Manastırlı İsmail Hakkı
Hoca Sok 6 C4 Karaköy Cad 5 D1 Küçük Pazar Cad 4 C2 Sok 6 B3
İnadiye Mek Sok 6 B3 Kardeşler Sok 2 B1 Küçük Şişhane Sok 1 B3 Manav Sok 4 B3
İncili Çavuş Sok 5 E4 Kartalbaba Cad 6 C3 Küçük Langa Cad 4 A4 Mangalcı Paşa Camii Sok 4 C3
İnklılap Cad 4 A4 Kartalbaba Sok 6 C3 Küçük Sok 5 D3 Marpuççular Cad 5 D3
İnönü Cad 1 C4 Kasap Hurşit Sok 1 B2 Kücük Sok 5 E4 Marsık Sok 1 A2
İpek Sok 1 B4 Kasap Osman Sok 5 D5 Kükürtlü Sok 1 B2 Maşuklar Sok 2 B3
İrfan Ahmet Sok 4 A1 Kasap Veli Sok 6 A3 Külhan Sok 1 B5 Matara Sok 1 B5
İshak Paşa Cad 5 E4 Kasatura Sok 1 B5 Kum Meydanı Sok 5 E3 Maybeyinçi Yok 4 B4
Isık Sok 4 C5 Kasnakçılar Cad 4 B2 Kumbaracı Başi Sok 3 E2 Mazharpaşa Sok 2 C3
Işık Sok 1 B4 Kâtibim Aziz Bey Sok 6 C2 Kumbaracı Yokuşu 1 A5 Mebusan Yokuşu 1 C4
Işık Sok 5 D4 Katip Çelebi Sok 4 B2 Kumkapı Hanı Sok 4 C4 Mecit Ali Sok 2 B3
148 I S TA N B U L S T R E E T F I N D E R
Meclis-i Mebusan Cad 2 A5 Narlıbahçe Sok 5 D3 Park üstü Sok 6 B5 Şair Nazım Sok 2 A3
Meddah Ismet Sok 2 B3 Nasip Sok 1 A1 Parlak Sok 6 A2 Şair Necati Sok 3 F2
Mehmet Çavuş Sok 6 C4 Nasuhiye Sok 4 C3 Parmaklık Sok 4 A2 Şair Nedim Cad 2 B3
Mehmet Murat Sok 5 E3 Necatibey Cad 1 C4 Parmaklık Sok 2 C2 Şair Nesimi Sok 6 B5
Mehmet Paşa Değirmeni Necatıbey Cad 5 E1 Paşa Kapısı Sok 6 B4 Şair Ruhi Sok 6 C3
Sok 6 A2 Necip Efendı Sok 5 D3 Paşa Limanı Cad 6 C1 Şair Sermet Sok 4 C5
Mehmet Paşa Yok 4 B2 Nefer Sok 4 A3 Paşazade Sok 4 A4 Şair Veysi Sok 2 B3
Mehmetçik Cad 2 A1 Neviye Sok 4 C4 Pelesenk Sok 1 B3 Şair Zati Sok 6 C4
Mercan Cad 4 C3 Nevizade Sok 1 A4 Perşembe Pazarı Cad 5 D1 Şair Ziya Paşa Cad 5 D1
Mertebanı Sok 5 D1 Nevşehirıli İbrahim Pertev Paşa Sok 5 D4 Sait Efendi Sok 4 A4
Mesih Paşa Cad 4 B4 Paşa Cad 4 A2 Pervaz Sok 1 B2 Saka Mehmet Sok 5 D3
Meşelik Sok 1 B4 Neyzen Başı Hali Peşkirağası Sok 1 B2 Şakayık Sok 2 A2
Meşrutiyet Cad 1 A4 Can Sok 6 B4 Peşkirci Sok 1 A3 Sakayolu Dere Sok 3 E1
Mete Cad 1 C3 Nişanca Bostan Sok 4 B4 Peylhane Sok 5 D4 Sakızağacı Cad 1 A3
Meyva Sok 1 B1 Nişanca Yok 4 B4 Piremeci Sok 1 A5 Sakızağacı Sok 2 A1
Midilli Sok 5 D1 Nizamiye Sok 1 B3 Piri Sok 4 A2 Sakızcılar Sok 5 E1
Mıhcılar Cad 4 A2 Nöbethane Cad 5 E3 Pırnal Sok 6 B3 Salacak Bostanı Sok 6 A3
Mim Kemal Öke Cad 1 C1 Nuh Kuyusu Cad 6 C4 Piyerloti Cad 5 D4 Salacak İskele Arkası 6 A3
Mimar Çeşmesi Sok 4 A1 Nüri Zıya Sok 1 A4 Postacılar Sok 1 A5 Salçıklar Sok 3 D3
Mimar Kemalettin Cad 5 D3 Nurtanesi Sok 2 B2 Poyracık Sok 2 A2 Salı Sok 6 C4
Mimar Mehmet Ağa Sok 5 E4 Nuruosmanıye Cad 5 D4 Prof Kazım İsmail Salih Paşa Cad 4 B1
Mimar Sinan Cad 4 C2 Nüzhetiye Cad 2 B3 Gürkan Cad 5 D4 Salım Sogüt Sok 5 E4
Mimar Vedat Sok 5 D3 Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Samancı Ferhat Sok 1 A3
Samsa Sok 4 C5
Miralay Şefik Bey Sok 1 C3 O Cad 4 C3
Miri Kalem Sok 4 A1 Pürtelaş Sok 1 C4 Samul Sok 5 D1
Mis Sok 1 B4 Oba Sok 1 B4 Sanatkarlar Cad 1 B5
Odalar Sok 2 B3 Sanatkarlar Mektebi Sok 1 B5
Mısır Buğdaycı Sok 1 A3
Ödev Sok 5 D5
R Sandalcı Sok 1 A2
Mısırlı Bahçe Sok 2 B3
Mısırlı Sok 2 B3 Odun İskelesi Sok 4 B1 Ragıp Gümüşpala Cad 4 C2 Sansar Sok 6 C3
Mithat Paşa Cad 4 C4 Öğdül Sok 6 A2 Rahvancı Sok 5 D3 Saraç İshak Sok 4 C4
Molla Bayırı Sok 1 C4 Öğretmen Haşim Çeken Rebab Sok 2 B3 Saraçhane Sok 4 A3
Molla Bey Sok 4 C4 Sok 2 A1 Recep Paşa Cad 1 B3 Saraka Sok 2 C1
Molla Fenari Sok 5 D4 Ögüt Sok 1 B4 Refah Sok 4 A2 Sarap Sok 5 E1
Molla Hüsrev Sok 4 A3 Okçu Musa Cad 5 D1 Resadiye Cad 5 D2 Şarapnel Sok 4 B5
Molla Şemsettin Camii Okçular Başı Cad 4 C4 Ressam Ali Sok 6 A3 Sarayiçi Sok 4 C5
Sok 4 B3 Ölçek Sok 1 B2 Reşat Ağa Sok 3 F1 Saray Arkası Sok 1 C4
Mollataşı Cad 4 B5 Ömer Efendi Sok 4 A2 Revani Çelebi Sok 4 B3 Sarı Beyazıt Cad 4 B2
Muallim Naci Cad 3 F2 Ömer Hayyam Cad 1 A3 Revani Sok 5 E1 Sarı Mehmet Sok 6 C3
Muammer Karaca Çık 1 A5 Ömer Rüştü Paşa Sok 2 A3 Revaniçi Sok 3 F1 Sarı Zeybek Sok 5 D1
Mukataacı Sok 2 B1 Ömer Yilmaz Sok 4 A3 Rıhtım Cad 5 E1 Sarıbal Sok 3 E2
Münir Ertegün Sok 6 C1 Omuzdaş Sok 1 A2 Rıza Paşa Sok 6 C4 Satır Sok 5 D4
Muradiye Deresi Sok 2 B2 Ondokuz Cad 2 A1 Ruhl Bağdadi Sok 3 E1 Satırcı Sok 1 B2
Muradiye Hüdavendigar Onur Sok 4 C5 Savaş Sok 1 A1
Cad 5 E3 Oran Sok 6 C2 S Sazlıdere Sok 1 B2
Murakıp Sok 5 E1 Ord Prof Cemilbilsel Cad 4 C2 Şebnem Sok 4 A1
Ördekli Bakkal Sok 4 C5 16 Mart Şehitleri Cad 4 B3 Şehin Şah Pehlerı Cad 5 D3
Murat Efendi Sok 4 C2
Orhanıye Sok 5 E3 Sabunca Hanı Sok 5 D3 Şehit Asım Cad 2 B3
Muratağa Sok 6 B4
Örme Altı Sok 1 A5 Sabunhanesi Sok 4 C2 Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yok 5 D5
Mürbasan Sok 2 C1
Ortabahçe Cad 2 B3 Sadıkoğlu Çık 2 C3 Şehit Mehmet Sok 2 A3
Musa Bey Sok 4 B2
Ortakır Dere Sok 1 A1 Şadırvan Sok 5 E5 Şehit Muhtar Bey Cad 1 B3
Müsahıp Sok 3 F2
Ortakır Sok 1 A1 Sadri Maksudi Arsal Sok 1 B1 Şehit Nuri Pamir Sok 3 E2
Müsellım Sok 4 C4
Ortaköy Dere Boyu Cad 3 E2 Safa Meydanı Sok 1 A2 Şehla Sok 4 A1
Mustafa İzzet Efendi Sok 3 D1
Ortaköy Kabristan Sok 3 E2 Saffet Paşa Sok 4 B3 Şehnamecı Sok 4 B4
Mustafa Kemal Cad 4 A4
Ortaköy Mandıra Sok 3 F1 Saffeti Paşa Sok 5 E3 Şehzade Başı Cad 4 B3
Müstantik Sok 4 A1
Oruç Gazi Sok 4 A3 Sahaflar Çarşışı Sok 4 C4 Şeker Ahmet Paşa Sok 4 C3
Müsteşar Sok 4 C5
Oruçbozan Sok 4 A3 Sahil Yolu üsküdar- Şekerci Sok 4 A4
Müvezzi Cad 2 C3
Örücüler Cad 4 C3 Harem 6 A3 Selalti Sok 2 B3
Sahil Yolu 6 A2 Selami Ali Cad 6 C2
N Osman Dede Sok 6 C2
Şahin Sok 1 B1 Selamlık Cad 2 B3
Osmanlı Sok 1 B4
Nakilbent Sok 5 D5 Otopark Sok 6 B2 Şahinde Sok 4 C3 Selamsiz Kulhhanı Sok 6 C2
Nalbant Camii Sok 4 B5 Oya Sok 1 A3 Şahkulu Bostanı Sok 1 A5 Selanikliler Sok 6 C2
Nalbant Demir Sok 4 A2 Özbekler Sok 5 D5 Şahkulu Sok 1 A5 Selbaşı Sok 1 B1
Nalçacı Hasan Sok 6 C4 Özoğul Sok 1 C5 Sahne Sok 1 A4 Selim Paşa Sok 4 A3
Nalıncı Cemal Sok 4 B1 Şair Baki Sok 4 A1 Selime Hatun Camii Sok 1 C4
Namahrem Sok 4 C2 Şair Fitnat Sok 4 B4 Selimiye İskele Cad 6 B5
Namık Paşa Sok 6 B3
P Şair Haşmet Sok 4 B4 Selimiye Camii Sok 6 B5
Nane Sok 1 B4 Palanga Cad 3 E2 Şair Leyla Sok 2 B4 Selimiye Kışla Cad 6 B5
Nanı Azız Sok 6 B4 Palaska Sok 1 B5 Şair Nabi Sok 4 A1 Selman Ağa Sok 6 B2
Nar Sok 3 E2 Parçacı Sok 4 C2 Şaır Nahifi Sok 2 C3 Selmanağa Bostanı Sok 6 C2
Nardenk Sok 2 B2 Park Altı Sok 6 B5 Şair Naili Sok 6 B3 Selmanıpak Cad 6 B2
Semaver Sok 4 C3 Tabur Sok 4 B5 Tophane İskelesi Cad 5 E1

Y
Şemsi Bey Sok 6 C1 Taburağası Sok 1 A2 Tophanelioğlu Sok 6 C2
Şemsi Efendi Sok 6 C1 Tacirhane Sok 4 C3 Toprak Sok 4 A3 Yağlıkçılar Cad 4 C3
Şemsi Paşa Bostanı Sok 6 A2 Tahmis Cad 5 D2 Topraklı Sok 6 A3 Yahni Kapan Sok 4 C4
Şemsi Paşa Cad 6 A2 Tahririye Sok 6 B3 Toptaşı Cad 6 C3 Yahya Efendi Sok 3 D3
Şemsi Paşa Rıhtımı Sok 6 A2 Tahsıin Bey Sok 5 D5 Toptaşı Meydanı Sok 6 C3 Yahya Paşa Sok 4 C4
Serdar Ömer Paşa Sok 1 A3 Tahtakale Cad 4 C2
Torun Sok 5 E5 Yakıf Hanı Sok 5 D3
Serdar Sok 4 A2 Tak-I Zafer Cad 1 C3
Tosunpaşa Sok 6 B4 Yalı Köşü Cad 5 D2
Serdar Sok 5 E3 Taksim Cad 1 B3
Toygar Hamza Sok 6 C2 Yaman Ali Sok 1 A2
Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok 1 A5 Taksim Firini Sok 1 B3
Tüfekçi Salih Sok 1 B5 Yan Sok 6 C2
Şeref Efendi Sok 5 D4 Taktaki Yok Sok 1 B4
Tuğrul Sok 2 B1 Yanıkkapı Sok 5 D1
Şerefli Sok 4 B1 Talimhane Sok 1 A1
Tüccarı Cad 4 A4 Yarasa Sok 1 C4
Serencebey Yokuşu 2 C3 Tarakçı Cafer Sok 5 D3
Tarakçılar Cad 5 D3 Tülcü Sok 4 C4 Yasıf Çınar Cad 4 C3
Şerif Bey Çeşmesi Sok 6 B4
Şerif Kuyusu Sok 6 B5 Tarcan Sok 1 A1 Tulumbacı Sıtkı Sok 1 A5
Yaşar Ozsoy Sok 6 A4
Servi Kökü Sok 6 B5 Tarçın Sok 3 E2 Tulumbacılar Sok 6 A2
Yastıkçı Sok 6 A2
Servilik Cad 6 C2 Tarlabaşı Cad 1 A4 Tunus Baği Cad 6 B4
Yavaşça Şahin Sok 4 C3
Set Sok 1 B5 Taş Savaklar Sok 5 E4 Turan Sok 1 B3
Yavuz Selim Cad 4 A1
Setüstü Sok 2 B1 Taş Tekneler Sok 4 B3 Turanlı Sok 4 C4
Yavuz Sok 2 B1
Şeyh Şamil Sok 3 E1 Taşbasamak Sok 3 E2 Türbedar Sok 5 D4
Yay Meydanı Cad 1 A1
Şeyh Yok Sok 6 B2 Taşdibek Çeşmesi Sok 5 D4 Türkbeyi Sok 1 B1
Taşkışla Cad 1 C2 Yedi Kuyular Cad 1 B3
Şeyhülislam Sok 5 D3 Türkeli Cad 4 B4
Seymen Sok 1 B1 Taşodaları Sok 4 B3 Yeni Alem Sok 1 A2
Türkgücü Cad 1 B5
Şeysuvarbey Sok 5 D5 Tasvir Sok 5 D3 Türkocağı Cad 5 D3 Yeni Cami Cad 5 D3
Seyyah Sok 4 B5 Tatar Hüseyin Sok 2 C2 Yeni Çarşı Cad 1 A4
Turna Sok 1 B2
Sezai Selek Sok 2 A1 Tatlı Kuyu Hamamı Sok 4 C4 Yeni Devir Sok 4 C4
Turnacıbaşı Sok 1 A4
Şifa Hamanı Sok 5 D5 Tatlı Kuyu Sok 4 C4 Yeni Doğan Sok 2 C2
Turşucu Halil Sok 4 A2
Şifahane Sok 4 B3 Tavaşi Çeşme Sok 4 B5
Tutkalcı Sok 1 A4 Yeni Dünya Sok 6 B2
Silahhane Sok 2 A3 Tavla Sok 1 A3
Tuzcu Murat Sok 1 B2 Yeni Hayat Sok 4 B2
Silahtar Mektebi Sok 5 D5 Tavşan Sok 1 B3
Yeni Kafa Sok 1 B3
Simitçi Sok 1 A3 Tavşantaşı Sok 4 B4
Sinan Camii Sok 4 A1 Tavuk Sok 3 E1 U Yeni Mahalle Dere Sok 2 B3
Sinan Paşa Köprü Sok 2 B4 Tavukçu Bakkal Sok 6 B3 Yeni Mahalle Fırını Sok 2 C3
Üçobalar Sok 2 A1
Sincap Sok 2 B1 Tavukhane Sok 5 E5 Yeni Nalbant Sok 1 B2
Üftade Sok 1 B2
Sinoplu Şehit Cemal Sok 2 A1 Tay Etem Sok 1 C4 Yeni Saraçhane Sok 5 E5
Ülçer Sok 5 D4
Şiracı Sok 3 F1 Taya Hatun Sok 5 E3 Yeni Yuva Sok 1 B5
Ülker Sok 1 C4
Sıraselviler Cad 1 B4 Tazı Çık 6 C2 Yenikapı Kumsal Sok 4 A5
Uncular Cad 6 B2
Şirket Sok 1 A3 Teccedut Sok 4 A4
Üniversite Cad 4 B4 Yerebatan Cad 5 E4
Siyavuş Paşa Sok 4 C3 Tekke Arkası Sok 6 C3
Urgancı Sok 3 F1 Yesarizade Cad 4 A2
Sobacılar Cad 4 C2 Teknik Sok 6 C3
Üskuplü Cad 4 B1 Yeşil Cam Sok 1 A4
Sofyalı Sok 1 A5 Tel Çık 6 B2
Tel Sok 1 B4 Üstad Sok 4 C5 Yeşil Çimen Sok 2 B1
Soğan Ağa Camii Sok 4 B4
Telli Odaları Sok 4 C5 Utangaç Sok 5 E5 Yeşil Tekke Sok 4 A3
Soğancı Sok 1 B4
Soğukçeşme Sok 5 E4 Tepedelen Sok 4 B1 Uygur Sok 1 B3 Yeşil Tulumba Sok 4 A3
Solgun Söğüt Sok 2 A3 Tepnirhane Sok 6 A2 Üzengi Sok 2 C2 Yeşilbaş Bayırı Sok 6 C2
Sormagir Sok 1 C4 Tepsi Fırını Sok 6 B2 Uzunçarşı Cad 4 C3 Yiğitbaşı Sok 1 B2
Spor Cad 2 A4 Terbıyık Sok 5 E5 Yıldız Bostanı Sok 2 B2
Tersane Cad 5 D1
Su Yolu Sok 4 A2 V Yıldız Cad 2 C3
Sulak Çeşme Sok 1 C4 Teşvikiye Bostan Cad 1 C1
Yoğurtçu Faik Sok 1 B3
Teşvikiye Cad 2 A2 Vali Konağı Cad 2 A1
Şule Sok 4 A1 Yokuşbaşı Sok 1 A3
Sülemaniye Cad 4 B3 Tetimmeler Cad 4 A2 Vali Konağı Cad 1 C1
Yolcuzade Sok 5 D1
Süleyman Nazif Sok 1 C1 Tevfık Efendi Sok 1 A3 Valide İmareti Sok 6 C3
Tezgahçılar Sok 4 A2 Valide Camii Sok 4 A4 Yüsek Kaldırım Cad 5 D1
Süleymaniye İmareti Sok 4 B2
Tığcılar Sok 4 C3 Varnalı Sok 3 E1 Yusuf Aşkin Sok 5 D5
Sultan Mektebi Sok 5 D3
Sümbül Sinan Sok 4 B4 Tıbbiye Cad 6 C5 Varyemez Sok 1 A3 Yüz Akı Sok 4 C5
Sümbülzade Sok 6 A3 Tıbbiye Cad 6 B4 Vatman Sok 3 F2
Sumuncu Sok 1 B4 Ticarethane Sok 5 E4 Vefa Bayırı Sok 2 B1 Z
Süngu Sok 1 B5 Tıftık Sok 4 A1
Vefa Türbesi Sok 4 B2
Tıpa Sok 1 B5 Zafer Sok 1 C1
Suphi Bey Sok 6 B5 Velioğlu Sok 6 A2
Susam Sok 1 B5 Tırmık Sok 1 A2 Zambak Sok 1 B3
Vezir Çeşmesi Sok 4 A4
Süslü Saskı Sok 1 B4 Tirşe Sok 1 A3 Zenciler Sok 6 C3
Vezirhan Cad 5 D4
Susuzbağ Sok 6 C1 Tiryaki Hasan Paşa Zerde Sok 2 B1
Vezneciler Cad 4 B3
Sok 4 A4
Vidinli Tevfik Paşa Zerre Sok 2 B1
Tiyatro Cad 4 C4
T Tohum Sok 2 B1 Cad 4 B3 Zeynep Kamil Sok 4 B4
Viransaray Sok 6 B3 Zeyrek Cad 4 A2
Tabağan Bahçe Sok 6 C2 Tomruk Sok 4 C2
Tabakcı Hüseyin Sok 2 B3 Tomtom Kaptan Sok 1 A5 Vişnezade Camii Önü Zeyrek Mehmet Paşa Sok 4 B2
Tabaklar Camii Sok 6 C3 Tomurcuk Sok 5 E5 Sok 2 A4 Zincirlikuyu Yolu 3 D1
Tabaklar Kulhanı Sok 6 C3 Topçe Kenler Sok 1 A4 Vişneli Tekke Sok 2 A4 Zincirlikuyu Yolu 3 F1
Tabaklar Mey Sok 6 C3 Topçu Cad 1 B3 Voyvoda Cad 5 D1 Züraf Sok 5 D1
TURKEY
REGION BY
REGION
Turkey at a Glance 152–153

Thrace and the Sea of
Marmara 154–173
The Aegean 174–207
Mediterranean Turkey 208–239
Ankara and Western Anatolia 240–263
The Black Sea 264–279
Cappadocia and
Central Anatolia 280–303
Eastern Anatolia 304–323
152 TURKEY REGION BY REGION
Turkey at a Glance
Turkey occupies the rugged Anatolian Plateau, an arid
upland region that is encircled by the mighty Taurus
and Pontic mountain systems. The country’s unrivalled
wealth of historic sights includes Istanbul – the capital
of three empires, as well as the ruins of classical sites
such as Ephesus, Hierapolis and Aphrodisias. In the
interior of the country are the unique cave cities and
churches of Cappadocia. The eastern provinces of Turkey
are less frequently visited, but offer such spectacular
attractions as Lake Van, Armenian churches and the Istanbul’s skyline is defined by
the silhouettes of great mosques
enigmatic stone heads at the summit of Mount Nemrut. such as Süleymaniye Mosque
(see pp104–5), built by the architect
Sinan in the 16th century.
Edirne
ISTANBUL
(see pp64–149)
Keşan Bolu
THRACE AND THE
SEA OF MARMARA
(see pp154–73)
Bursa
Eskişehir Ankara
War Memorials on Balıkesir
the Gallipoli Peninsula Ayvalık
Kütahya
(see pp172–3) salute the
bravery of the soldiers THE AEGEAN ANKARA AND
who fought and died (see pp174–207) WESTERN ANATOLIA
here in World War I. İzmir (see pp240–63)
Çeşme Dinar
Aydın
Konya
Denizli
Bodrum MEDITERRANEAN
TURKEY
(see pp209–39) Antalya
0 kilometres 50 Marmaris Alanya
0 miles 50
Kaş
Anamur
The Castle of St Peter (see pp200–201)

guards the harbour at Bodrum. The castle
was built by the Knights of St John in the The Mevlâna Museum (see pp256–7) is a place
15th century, using stones taken from of pilgrimage that contains the tombs of
the ruins of the celebrated Mausoleum important Mevlevi Dervish mystics. Nearby
of Halicarnassus. is the Selimiye Mosque, an emblem of Konya.
Marmaris Castle and harbour on the Datça Peninsula
T U R K E Y AT A G L A N C E 153
Haghia Sophia,
a Byzantine church
in the historic
port of Trabzon
(see pp274–5), was
rebuilt in the mid-
13th century on
the site of a Roman
temple. After the
Ottoman conquest,
the church became
a mosque and was
then converted
into a museum.
Controversially,
it may soon be
Mount Ağri (Ararat), said to be where Noah’s
converted back
Ark came to rest after the biblical flood, looms
into a mosque.
over the eastern Anatolian town of Doğubayazıt.
İshak Paşa Sarayı (see p319), an 18th-century
palace, lies outside the town.
İnebolu
Bafra
Samsun Hopa
Artvin
The BLACK SEA Trabzon
(see pp264–79)
Amasya Kars
Gümüşhane
CAPPADOCIA AND Sivas Erzincan Erzurum

Ağrı
CENTRAL ANATOLIA
(see pp280–303)
Kırşehir EASTERN ANATOLIA
(see pp304–23)
Kayseri
Nevşehir Tatvan Van
Malatya
Diyarbakır
Niğde
Kahramanmaraş Hakkâri
Mardin
Adana Gaziantep Şanlıurfa
Mersin
(İçel)
İskenderun
Silifke
Samandağ Cappadocia’s
many churches,
cave dwellings,
monasteries and
underground cities
(see p285) were
carved out of
hardened volcanic
ash deposited
many thousands
of years ago.
Sabancı Central Mosque in Adana

(see p234) is one of the largest mosques
in the Islamic world. The Ottoman-era
clock tower is an older landmark of
this fast-growing southern city.
THRACE AND THE SEA

OF MARMARA
Standing at a natural crossroads, Istanbul
makes a good base for excursions into the
neighbouring areas of Thrace and the Sea of Marmara.
Whether you want to see great Islamic architecture, immerse yourself in
a busy bazaar, relax on an island or catch a glimpse of Turkey’s rich birdlife,
you will find a choice of destinations within easy reach of the city.
On public holidays and at weekends, To the northwest, near the Greek border,
nearby resorts are crowded with Istanbul is Edirne, a former Ottoman capital. It is
residents taking a break from the noisy visited today for its mosques, especially
city. For longer breaks, they head for the the Selimiye with its towering minarets.
Mediterranean or Aegean, so summer Edirne also stages Kırkpınar grease-
is a good, quiet time to explore the wrestling matches every June, when
Thrace and Marmara regions. enthusiastic crowds flock to enjoy the
The country around Istanbul varies contest and the accompanying folk festival.
immensely from lush forests to open South of the Sea of Marmara is the
plains and, beyond them, impressive pretty spa-town of Bursa. Originally a
mountains. The Princes’ Islands, where Greek city, it was founded in 183 BC.
pine forests and monasteries can be The first Ottoman capital, it has some fine
toured by a pleasant ride in a horse- architecture and also maintains the tradition
drawn carriage, are also just a short of the Karagöz shadow puppet theatre.
boat trip away from the city. A little Near the mouth of the straits of the
further away, the lakeside town of İznik Dardanelles lie the ruins of the legendary
is world famous for its ceramics. This art city of Troy, dating from about 3600 BC.
form, which reached its zenith in the North of the Dardanelles are cemeteries
16th and 17th centuries, is one of the commemorating the thousands of soldiers
wonders of Ottoman art, and original killed in the battles fought over the
pieces are highly prized. Gallipoli Peninsula during World War I.
Boats in Burgaz Harbour on the Princes’ Islands, a short ferry ride from Istanbul
The vast Selimiye Mosque, a prominent landmark in Edirne
Exploring Thrace and the Sea of Marmara

Istanbul is the jewel of the Thrace and Marmara region, but places like
Edirne and Bursa – and others within a radius of about 250 km (150 miles) –
each have their own history and importance, with some fine museums and
mosques. Şile, located on the Black Sea coast, is a day’s outing from
Istanbul, as is the quaint hamlet of Polonezköy. Bird parks, the superb
tiles of İznik, along with the spas and ski slopes around Bursa,
give the Marmara area the edge for variety.
A visit to the World War I battlefields
and cemeteries of the Gallipoli lğneada
Lalapaşa
Peninsula is a moving experience.
Demirköy
Y ıl
Kırklareli dız
Süloğlu
Da
ğl
ar
EDİRNE ı
Hasköy Pınarhisar
Vize
Havsa
Karacaoğlan
Saray
Babaeski
Lüleburgaz Çerkezköy
i Büyükkarıstıran
ağ Uzunköprü
m
Ir
ne
Hayrabolu
ge
Muratlı Çorlu
Er
Hamidiye
Küplü
Banarlı Seymen
French war cemetery, Gallipoli
Peninsula Paşayiğit
Tekirdağ Marmara
İpsala Malkara Ereğlisi
İnecik
Keşan
ı
ğ Kumbağ
Karahisar Ballı a
D
Enez ir
ek
Mecidiye T
Şarköy
Marmara
fe z i
s Kör
S aro Bolayır Marmara
Adası
Gelibolu Karabiga
o lu Erdek
ib Lâpseki Bandırma
el
G
Kabatepe
BIRD PARADISE
Eceabat NATIONAL PARK
Biga Kuş
Çan
GALLIPOLI Gölü
Çanakkale
PENINSULA Gönen
Sights at a Glance
1 Edirne pp158–61
2 Princes’ Islands
3 Polonezköy
0 kilometres 30 4 Şile
5 İznik
0 miles 15
6 Uludağ National Park
7 Bursa pp166–71
8 Bird Paradise National Park Bird Paradise National Park – an area rich in
9 Gallipoli Peninsula pp172–3 protected wildlife
THRACE AND THE SEA OF MARMARA 157
Getting Around
The Trans European Motorway (TEM) system
means that a six-lane superhighway bypasses
the hub of Istanbul using the Fatih Sultan Mehmet
Bridge over the Bosphorus. On this toll road, the
Istanbul to Ankara journey takes about 3 hours.
Car ferries (no reservations required) commute
frequently between Gebze and Yalova. A sea bus
service (advance booking essential) does the
Yenikapı (central Istanbul) to Bandırma run in a
few hours. From Istanbul, local and intercity trains
depart from Sirkeci Station on the European side
and Haydarpaşa Station on the Asian side. Ferries
depart from the Eminönü ferry piers in Istanbul
to four of the Princes’ Islands and from Kabataş,
near the Dolmabahçe Palace, to the islands on
the south coast of the Sea of Marmara, as well
as from Bostanci on the Asian side.
Kıyıköy
Children walking up a picturesque street in an old

quarter of Bursa
Karacaköy
Durusu
Gölü
BLACK SEA
Durusu
Saz
Sinekli Bahçeköy Sarıyer

ŞİLE
li
Der
Çatalca Beykoz
esi
POLONEZKÖY
Silivri ISTANBUL
Ömerli Barajı
K oc
Büyük aeli
Çekmece Küçük Y ar ı m
adası
Çekmece
PRINCES’
ISLANDS Gebze Kocaeli (İzmit)
Degirmendere Ankara
Sea of Marmara
Gölcük
Yalova
Dağlari
İmralı
Adası Armutlu
Adası
Gemlik İznik Gölü İZNİK
Mudanya Sölöz
an Daği
Avd
Karacabey Yenişehir
Bilecik
yı
Ulubat
Ça
Gölü BURSA
av
Sim
İnegöl
ULUDAĞ
Balıkesir NATIONAL PARK
Key
Motorway
Major road Domaniç Eskişehir
Orhaneli
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway Tavsanlı
Minor railway
International border
1 Edirne
Standing on the river Tunca near the border with
Greece, Edirne is a provincial university town that
is home to one of Turkey’s star attractions, the
Selimiye Mosque (see pp160–61). As this huge
monument attests, Edirne was historically of great
importance. It dates back to AD 125, when the Entrance arch, Mosque of the Three Balconies
Emperor Hadrian joined two small towns to form
Hadrianopolis, or Adrianople. For nearly a century, from of the mosque are each of a
different design and height.
1361 when Murat I took the city until Constantinople was
Unlike its predecessors in Bursa
conquered in 1453 (see p58), Edirne was the Ottoman (see pp166–7), the mosque has
capital. The town has one other claim to fame – the an open courtyard, a feature
annual grease-wrestling championships in June. that set a precedent for the
great imperial mosques of
Istanbul. The interior plan was
common afflictions. The also innovative. With minimal
colonnaded inner mosque obstructions, both the mihrab
courtyard, unlike most later and minbar can be seen
examples, covers three times from almost every corner
the area of the mosque itself. of the prayer hall.
Inside, the weight of the
impressive dome is supported U Old Mosque
on sweeping pendentives. Eski Cami
Talat Paşa Asfaltı. Open daily. ^
U Mosque of the The oldest of Edirne’s major
Three Balconies mosques, this is a smaller
Üç Şerefeli Camii version of the Great Mosque in
Hükümet Cad. Open daily. ^ Bursa (see p168). The eldest son
Entrance to Beyazıt II Mosque viewed from Until the fall of Constantinople, of Beyazıt I, Süleyman, began
its inner courtyard this was the grandest building the mosque in 1403, but it was
of the early Ottoman state. It was his youngest son, Mehmet I,
U Beyazıt II Mosque finished in 1447 and takes its who completed it in 1414.
Beyazıt II Külliyesi name from the three balconies A perfect square, the mosque
Yeni Maharet Cad. Open daily. which adorn its southeastern is divided by four massive piers
Health Museum: Tel (0284) 212 09 22. minaret – at the time the tallest into nine domed sections.
Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. & 7 in existence. In an unusual On either side of the prayer
Beyazıt II Mosque stands in touch, the other three minarets hall entrance there are massive
a peaceful location on the
northern bank of the Tunca
River, 1.5 km (1 mile) from
Grease-Wrestling
the city centre. It was built in The Kırkpınar Grease-Wrestling Championships take place
1484–8, soon after Beyazıt II annually in June, on the island of Sarayiçi in the Tunca River.
succeeded Mehmet the The event is famed throughout Turkey and accompanied by
Conqueror (see p58) as sultan. a week-long carnival. Before competing, the wrestlers don knee-
The mosque and its courtyards length leather shorts (kıspet)
are open to the public. Of the and grease themselves from
surrounding buildings in the head to foot in diluted olive
complex, the old hospital, oil. The master of ceremonies,
the cazgır, then invites the
which incorporated an asylum,
competitors to take part in
has been converted into the a high-stepping, arm-flinging
Health Museum. Disturbed parade across the field,
patients were treated in this accompanied by music played
asylum – a model facility for its on a deep-toned drum (davul)
time – with water, music and and a single-reed oboe (zurna).
flower therapies. The Turkish Wrestling bouts can last up
writer Evliya Çelebi (1611–84) to two hours and involve
reported that singers and long periods of frozen, silent
instrumentalists would play concentration interspersed
soothing music here three Wrestlers performing a ceremonial ritual by attempts to throw down
times a week. Overuse of before the contest the opponent.
hashish was one of the most
EDIRNE 159
Arabic inscriptions proclaiming of art is attractively located VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

“Allah” and “Mohammed”. in the medrese (see p36) of
the Selimiye Mosque. Practical Information
P Rüstem Paşa Caravanserai The museum’s first room is * 150,000. n Hürriyet
Rüstem Paşa Kervansarayı devoted to the local sport of Meydanı 17, (0284) 213 92 08.
İki Kapılı Han Cad 57. grease-wrestling. It includes ( Mon, Wed, Sat. _ Grease-
Tel (0284) 212 61 19. enlarged reproductions of Wrestling (Jun). ∑ kirkpinar.org
Sinan (see p105) designed this miniatures depicting 600 years Transport
kervanseray for Süleyman’s most of the sport. These show the k £ Ayşekadın, (0284) 235
powerful grand vizier, Rüstem wrestling stars resplendent in 26 73. @ E5 exit at Highway
Paşa, in 1560–61. It was their leather shorts, their skin Maintenance Depot, (0284) 226
constructed in two distinct parts. glistening with olive oil. 00 20.  in front of tourist office
The larger courtyard, or han Other objects on display (Hürriyet Meydanı 17).
(see pp28–9), which is now the include the original doors
Rüstem Paşa Kervansaray Hotel, of the Beyazıt II Mosque.
was built for the merchants There are also military U Muradiye Mosque
of Edirne, while the smaller exhibits. Among them are Muradiye Camii
courtyard, now a student hostel, some beautiful 18th-century Küçükpazar Cad. Open daily. ^
was an inn for other travellers. Ottoman shields, with woven What is today a tranquil mosque
A short walk away, on the other silk exteriors, and paintings was first built as a zaviye (dervish
side of Saraçlar Caddesi, is the of military subjects. hospice) in 1421 by Murat II, who
Semiz Ali Paşa Bazaar. This is dreamed that the great
also the work of Sinan, and dates dervish leader Celaleddin
from 1589. It consists of a long, Rumi (see pp256, 259) asked
narrow street of vaulted shops. him to build a hospice in
Edirne. Only later was it
E Museum of Turkish and converted into a mosque.
Islamic Arts Its interior is notable for its
Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi massive inscriptions, similar
Kadir Paşa Mektep Sok. to those in the Old Mosque,
Tel (0284) 225 11 20. Open 8am–6pm and for some fine early
Tue–Sun. & 15th-century İznik tiles
Edirne’s small collection of (see p165). It may be locked
Turkish and Islamic works The tranquil 15th-century Muradiye Mosque outside prayer times.
Edirne City Centre

1 Beyazıt II Mosque 5 Selimiye Mosque 0 metres 750
2 Mosque of the Three 6 Museum of Turkish 0 yards 750
Balconies and Islamic Arts
3 Old Mosque 7 Muradiye Mosque
4 Rüstem Paşa Caravanserai
HO
Beyazıt II
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AG N
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Bey Parki Selimiye Mosque
Paşa Bazaar
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Bus Terminal Train Station

2 km (1.25 miles) 3 km (2 miles)

Edirne: Selimiye Mosque

Selimiye Camii
The Selimiye is the greatest of all the Ottoman
mosque complexes, the apogee of an art form
and the culmination of a life’s ambition for its
architect, Sinan (see p105). Built on a slight hill,
the mosque is a prominent landmark. Its complex
includes a medrese (see p36), housing the
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, a school
and the Kavaflar Arasta, a covered bazaar.
. Minarets
Selim II commissioned the mosque. It was The mosque’s four slender
begun in 1569 and completed in 1575, a year minarets tower to a height
after his death. The dome was Sinan’s proudest of 84 m (275 ft). Each
achievement. In his memoirs, he wrote: “With the one has three balconies.
The two northern minarets
help of Allah and the favour of Sultan Selim Khan, contain three inter-
I have succeeded in building a cupola six cubits twining staircases,
wider and four cubits deeper than that of Haghia each one leading to
Sophia.” In fact, the dome is comparable in a different balcony.
diameter and slightly shallower than the building
Sinan had so longed to surpass.
Ablutions Fountain
Intricate, pierced carving decorates the top of the
16-sided open şadırvan (ablutions fountain), which stands
in the centre of the courtyard. The absence of a canopy
helps to retain the uncluttered aspect.
KEY
1 Above the courtyard portals

are striking arches that were built
using alternating red and honey-
coloured slabs of stone. This echoes
the decoration of the magnificent
arches running around the mosque
courtyard itself.
2 The columns supporting the
arches of the courtyard are made
of old marble, plundered from
Byzantine architecture.
3 The müezzin mahfili still retains
original, intricate 16th-century
paintwork on its underside.
Beneath it is a small fountain.
4 Mihrab, cut from
Marmara marble.
EDIRNE 161
. Dome VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The 43 m (141 ft)
dome dominates Practical Information
the interior of the Mimar Sinan Cad, Edirne.
mosque. Not even Tel (0284) 213 97 35.
the florid paintwork – Open daily. Closed prayer times.
the original 16th- & donation.
century decoration
underwent restoration
in the 19th century –
detracts from its effect.
. Minbar
Many experts claim
that the Selimiye’s
minbar, with its
conical tiled cap, is
the finest in Turkey.
Its lace-like side
panels are
exquisitely carved.
The Interior
The mosque is the supreme
achievement of Islamic
architecture. Its octagonal plan
allows for a reduction in the
size of the buttresses
supporting the dome. This
permitted extra windows to be
incorporated, making the
interior exceptionally light.
Entrance from
Kavaflar Arasta
Sultan’s Loge
The imperial loge is supported on
green marble columns. They are
connected by pointed arches,
whose surrounds are adorned with
floral İznik tiles (see p165). Unusually,
its ornately decorated mihrab
Main contains a shuttered window,
entrance which opened on to countryside
when the mosque was built.
The smaller islands of Kınalıada

and Burgazada are less
developed and therefore
more peaceful. Kınalıada is
home to a fine Armenian
church built in 1857. At
Burgazada, visitors can see the
19th-century Greek Orthodox
Church of John the Baptist.
3 Polonezköy
* 800. @ 15KC from Üsküdar
to Beykoz, then take a taxi. _ Cherry
festival (first two weeks of Jun).
Polonezköy still reflects clear

signs of the Polish roots of
Burgazada, one of the relaxed and picturesque Princes’ Islands its founders, who came here
in 1842 fleeing Russian
2 Princes’ Islands from Istanbul, many wealthy oppression. United by politics,
Kızıl Adalar foreigners settled on the islands. Poles fought in Abdül Mecit I’s
One who found the tolerant army against Russia in the
* 17,200. g ferry and sea bus
attitude to foreigners and Crimean War (1853–6).
from Kabataş (European side),
generous morality attractive Exempted from taxes for
sea bus from Kadıköy (Asian side) or
from Bostancı (further Asian side). was Leon Trotsky, who their efforts in the war,
n Town Hall, (0216) 382 70 71 lived in one of Büyükada’s they settled in their
and (0216) 382 78 56. finest mansions from namesake village. Unlike
1929 to 1933. Zia Gökalp many people who came
The pine-forested Princes’ (see p314), a key figure to Istanbul principally for
Islands provide a welcome in the rise of Turkish trade, Poles came here
break from the bustle of the nationalism, lived here in search of freedom
city and are just a short ferry during the waning years and some of them
ride southeast of Istanbul. of the Ottoman era. converted to Islam.
Most ferries call in turn at the Büyükada is the Polonezköy’s old-world
four largest of the nine islands: largest of the Princes’ charm and culinary
Kınalıada, Burgazada, Hey- Islands, and it attracts Door to the traditions are still there,
beliada and Büyükada. many visitors because of Monastery of St but it has become very
Easily visited on a day trip, its beaches, outdoor George, Büyükada popular for a day’s
the islands take their name from summer culture and the outing or a weekend
a royal palace built by Justin II Art Nouveau style of the break. Turks make up most of its
on Büyükada, then known as wooden dwellings that have current population.
Prinkipo (Island of the Prince) given the island much of its There are excellent walks in the
in 569. In Byzantine times the lingering Ottoman atmosphere. surrounding countryside and,
islands became infamous as Büyükada and Heybeliada shun even though villas and spas have
a place of exile for royalty, any form of motorized transport sprung up, there are still several
and also as the site of in favour of horse-drawn authentic restaurants serving
several monasteries. carriages or donkeys. At the Polish specialities, including the
In the latter half of the 19th top of Büyükada’s wooded wild boar for which the town
century, with the inauguration southern hill stands the was once well known.
of a regular steamboat service Monastery of St George, built The surrounding beech
on Byzantine foundations. forest, which also offers
Heybeliada, the second largest pleasant walks, has become a
island, houses the imposing conservation area protected
former Naval High School (Deniz from further development.
Harp Okulu), built in 1942. Less
touristy than Büyükada, this
island offers quieter pleasures 4 Şile
such as lovely, tiny beaches and
* 5,000. @ from Üsküdar.
walks in pine groves. The island’s
northern hill is the stunning The quintessential Black Sea
location of the Greek Orthodox holiday village Şile has
Visitors strolling along a street in the School of Theology, which was several fine, sandy beaches
village of Büyükada built in 1841. and a large, black-and-white
striped lighthouse high on the abandoned monasteries.

a clifftop. In ancient times, Nowadays, however, no traces
the village, then known as of Uludağ’s former religious
Kalpe, was a port used by communities remain.
ships sailing eastward Spring and summer are the
from the Bosphorus. Şile’s best times for visiting Uludağ
lighthouse, the largest in National Park, as its alpine
Turkey, was built by the French heights remain relatively cool,
for Sultan Abdül Aziz in offering a welcome escape from
1858–9. Visiting it after the heat of the lower areas.
dusk on a warm evening Visitors will find plenty of good Spoonbill wading in the lake at Bird
makes a pleasant outing. opportunities for peaceful Paradise National Park
Apart from tourism, Şile walking and picnicking.
is known for producing The park includes about 8 Bird Paradise
cotton, as well as a cool, 670 sq km (258 sq miles) of National Park
loose-weave cotton cloth, woodland. As you ascend, the Kuşcenneti Milli Parkı
known as şile bezi, which is deciduous beech, oak and hazel
Tel (0266) 735 54 22.  no public
sold in local shops. gradually give way to juniper
transport, take a taxi from Bandırma.
and aspen, and finally to dwarf
Open sunrise to sunset daily. & 8
junipers. In springtime, the
5 İznik slopes are blanketed with An estimated 255 species of
See pp164–5. hyacinths and crocuses. birds visit Bird Paradise National
The main tourist season in Park at the edge of Kuş Gölü,
Uludağ starts in November, the lake formerly known as
6 Uludağ when it becomes Turkey’s Manyas Gölü. Located on the
National Park most fashionable and accessible great migratory paths between
Uludağ Milli Parkı ski resort, with a reliable cable Europe and Asia, the park is a
car service and a good happy combination of plant
Tel (0224) 283 21 97. @ City bus
selection of hotels. cover, reedbeds and a lake
marked “Teleferik” from Koza Park,
Osman Gazi (see p58) is that supports at least 20 species
then cable car to the lookout point at
Sarıalan.  to Sarıalan, then dolmuş.
supposed to have founded of fish. The park will delight
Open daily. & only for vehicles. seven villages for his seven amateur and professional
sons and their brides here. birdwatchers alike, and a
One of a number of Turkish Cumalıkızık, on the lower good field guide and some
mountains to claim the title slopes of Uludağ, is the most mosquito repellent will
of Mount Olympus, Uludağ, perfectly preserved of the five enhance the experience.
at 2,540 m (8,340 ft), was surviving villages and it is a At the entrance to the park,
believed by the Bithynians UNESCO World Heritage Site. there is a small museum with
(of northwestern Asia Minor) Among its houses are displays about various birds.
to be the abode of the gods. many 750-year-old Binoculars are provided at the
In the Byzantine era, it was half-timbered buildings. desk and visitors make their
home to several monastic way to an observation tower.
orders. After the Ottoman Two main groups of birds visit
conquest of Bursa, Muslim
7 Bursa the lake: those that come here
dervishes (p259) moved into See pp166–71. to breed (March–July), and
those that pass by during
migration, either heading south
(November) or north (April–
May). Among the birds that
breed around the lake are the
endangered Dalmatian pelican,
the great crested grebe,
cormorants, herons, bitterns
and spoonbills. Over three
million birds fly across the area
on their migratory routes –
storks, cranes, pelicans and birds
of prey like sparrowhawks and
spotted eagles. April and May
are the best months to enjoy
this area. Close to the main park
area, there is a restaurant that
serves fresh trout, and it is a
Uludağ National Park, a popular ski resort in winter good spot to break for lunch.
5 İznik
* 42,000. @ Yeni Mahalle, Yakup
Sok, (0224) 757 25 83. g Sea bus
from Istanbul to Yalova then dolmuş
to İznik. n Belediye Hizmet Binası,
Kılıçaslan Cad 97, (0224) 757 19 33,
(0224) 757 14 54. ( Wed. _ İznik
Flower and Summer Festival (1st or
2nd week of May); Liberation Day
(28 Nov).
A charming lakeside town, İznik Grand domed portico fronting the Archaeological Museum
gives little clue now of its former
glory as a capital of the Byzantine it into the Ottoman empire. İznik after an earthquake in 1065.
Empire. Its most important still retains its original layout. The remains of a fine mosaic floor,
legacy, however, dates from the Surrounded by the town walls, and also of a Deësis (a fresco
16th century, when its kilns its two main streets are in the depicting Christ, the Virgin and
produced the finest ceramics form of a cross, with minor John the Baptist), are protected
ever made in the Ottoman world. streets running out from them from damage behind glass
The town first reached on a grid plan. The walls still screens. The church became
prominence in AD 325, when more or less delineate the a mosque after the Ottoman
it was known as Nicaea. In that town’s boundaries. They were conquest, but was converted
year Emperor Constantine built in 300 BC by the Greek into a museum in the Republican
(see p53) chose it as the location Lysimachus, then ruler era. Controversially, it was
of the first Ecumenical Council of the town, but were reconsecrated as a
of the Christian Church. frequently repaired by mosque in 2012. Just
The meeting produced the the Byzantines and, off the eastern end of
Nicene Creed, a statement of later, the Ottomans. Kılıçaslan Caddesi, the
doctrine on the nature of Christ Extending for some 14th-century Green
in relation to God. 3 km (2 miles), the Mosque (Yeşil Camii)
The Seljuks (see p56) took walls are punctuated is named after the tiles
Nicaea in 1081 and renamed it by huge gateways. covering its minaret.
İznik. It was recaptured in 1097, The main one, Unfortunately, the
during the First Crusade, on Istanbul Gate Istanbul Gate from within original tiles have
behalf of Emperor Alexius I (İstanbul Kapısı), the town walls been replaced by
Comnenus. After the marks İznik’s modern copies of
Crusader capture of northern limit. It is decorated inferior quality. Opposite the
Constantinople with a carved relief of fighting mosque, the Kitchen of Lady
in 1204 (see p57), horsemen and is flanked by Nilüfer (Nilüfer Hatun İmareti),
the city served as Byzantine towers. one of İznik’s loveliest buildings,
the capital of the One of the town’s oldest now houses the town’s
“Empire of surviving monuments, the Archaeological Museum.
Nicaea” for 50 church of Haghia Sophia, This imaret was set up in 1388
years. In 1331, stands at the intersection of the by Nilüfer Hatun, wife of Orhan
Orhan Gazi main streets, Atatürk Caddesi Gazi, and served as a hospice for
captured İznik and Kılıçaslan Caddesi. The wandering dervishes. Entered
and incorporated current building was erected through a spacious five-domed
portico, the central domed area
is flanked by two more domed
rooms. The museum has displays
of Roman antiquities and glass,
as well as some examples of
Seljuk and Ottoman tiles.
P Haghia Sophia
Atatürk Cad. Tel (0224) 757 10 27.
Open daily. &
U Green Mosque
Müze Sok. Open daily
(except prayer times).
E Archaeological Museum
Müze Sok. Tel (0224) 757 10 27.
Open 9am–noon & 1–5pm
Green Mosque, named after the green tiles adorning its minaret Tue–Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp332 and pp349–50
İznik Ceramics
İznik was one of two major centres (the other being Kütahya) where fine, painted
and glazed pottery was fashioned during the Ottoman period. Pottery vessels, plates,
and flat and shaped tiles were produced at İznik from the 15th to the 17th century.
The last major commission was for 21,043 tiles of some 50 different designs for the
Sultanahmet Mosque in Istanbul, completed in 1616. Early İznik pottery is brilliant
blue and white. The potteries reached their peak in the 16th century, when the
famous “tomato red” colour was fully developed. Today visitors can see it sparkle
on the superb tilework of the 1561 Rüstem Paşa Mosque (see p102) in Istanbul.
This period of İznik greatness in ceramic art coincided with the great period
of design at the Nakkaşhane design studio in the Topkapı Palace (see pp72–5).
Chinese porcelain, which was imported into Cobalt blue and white
Turkey from the 14th century and of which was the striking com-
there is a large collection in Topkapı Palace, bination of colours
often inspired the designs used for İznik pottery. used in early İznik
During the 16th century, pottery (produced
İznik potters produced between c.1470 and
imitations of 1520). The designs used
pieces of Chinese were a mixture of
porcelain, such Chinese and Arabesque,
as this copy as seen on this tiled
of a Ming dish. panel on the wall of the
Circumcision Chamber
in Topkapı Palace. Floral
patterns and animal
motifs were both
popular at this time.
Rock and wave
border pattern
Damascus ware was the name erroneously

given to ceramics produced at İznik during the
first half of the 16th century. They had fantastic
floral designs in the new
colours of turquoise, Armenian bole, an iron-rich red
sage green and colour, began to be used around
manganese. When 1550, as seen in this 16th-century
such tiles were tankard. New, realistic tulip and
discovered at other floral designs were also
Damascus, the introduced, and İznik ware
similar İznik pots enjoyed its heyday, which
were wrongly lasted until around 1630.
assumed to have
been made there.
Wall tiles were
not made in
any quantity
until the reign
of Süleyman
the Magnificent
(1520–66).
Süleyman used
İznik tiles to
refurbish the
Dome of the
Rock in Jerusalem. Some of the best examples
are seen in Istanbul’s mosques, notably in
the Süleymaniye (see pp104–5), Rüstem Paşa
Mosque and, here, in this example from
Miniature depicting potters the Blue Mosque (pp92–3).
7 Bursa
The city of Bursa – known to Turks as yeşil Bursa
(“green Bursa”) – has tranquil parks and leafy
suburbs set on the lower slopes of Mount Uludağ
(see p163). This disguises the vibrant commercial
heart of the city, which is today made prosperous
by automobiles, food and textiles, as it was by
the silk trade in the 15th and 16th centuries.
The Romans developed the potential of Bursa’s
mineral springs, and there are estimated to be
about 3,000 thermal baths in the city today. In
View over the rooftops of the city of Bursa
1326 Bursa became the first capital of the Ottoman
Empire after it succumbed to Osman (see p58). is simply dazzling. The space
Bursa has been a provincial capital since 1841 and, is small and the ornamentation,
despite its commercial centre, it has retained its pious covering a relatively large
dignity. No city in Turkey has more mosques and tombs. surface area, is breathtaking
in its depth of colour and
Paradoxically, it is also the home of the satirical shadow- detail. The mihrab has especially
puppet genre known as Karagöz (see p30). intricate tile panels, including
a representation of a mosque
U Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque niches. The walls of the prayer lamp hanging from a gold
Yıldırım Beyazıt Camii hall itself are adorned with chain between two candles.
Yıldırım Cad. several attractive pieces of The sultan’s magnificent
Open daily (except prayer times). calligraphic design (see pp32–3). sarcophagus is covered in
This mosque is named after exquisite tiles and adorned by
Beyazıt I, whose nickname  Green Tomb a long Koranic inscription.
was “Yıldırım”, meaning Yeşil Türbe Nearby sarcophagi contain the
“thunderbolt”. This referred Yeşil Cad. Open daily. & donation. remains of his sons, daughters
to the speed with which he The tomb of Mehmet I, which and nursemaid.
reacted to his enemies. stands elevated among tall
Built in 1389, just after Beyazıt cypress trees, is one of the U Green Mosque
became sultan, the mosque city’s most prominent Yeşil Camii
at first doubled as a lodge for landmarks. It was built Yeşil Cad. Open daily
Sufi dervishes (see p259). between 1414 and 1421. (except prayer times).
It has a lovely portico with The tomb is much closer to Bursa’s most famous monument
five domed bays. the Seljuk style of architecture was commissioned by Mehmet I
Inside, the prayer hall and than classical Ottoman. Its in 1412, but it remained
interior court (a covered exterior is covered in green tiles – unfinished at his death in
“courtyard” in Bursa mosques, mainly 19th-century replace- 1421 and still lacks a portico.
which prefigures the open ones ments for the original faïence. Nevertheless, it is the finest
preferred by later Ottoman A few older tiles survive around Ottoman mosque built prior
architects) are divided by an the entrance portal. The interior, to the conquest of
impressive, gravity-defying arch. entered through a pair of Constantinople (see p58).
This rises from two mihrab-like superbly carved wooden doors, The main portal is tall and
elegant, with an intricately
carved canopy. It opens into
the entrance hall. Beyond this
is an interior court with a carved
fountain at its centre. A flight
of three steps leads up from
here into the prayer hall.
On either side of the steps
are niches for worshippers
to leave their shoes. Above
the entrance to the court is
the sultan’s loge (see p37),
resplendent in richly patterned
tiles created using the cuerda
seca technique. They are
in beautiful greens, blues
The distinctive and prominent Green Tomb of Sultan Mehmet I and yellows, with threads
BURSA 167
of gold that were added after the mihrab’s tiles depict VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
firing. The tiling of the prayer flowers, leaves, arabesques
hall was carried out by Ali Ibn and geometric patterns. Practical Information
İlyas Ali, who learned his art in The mosque’s exterior was * 2,787,000.
Samarkand. This was the first also once clad in tiles, but these n Ulucami Parkı, Orhangazı
time that tiles were used have disappeared over time. Altgeçidi 1 (0224) 220 18 48.
extensively in an Ottoman _ International Bursa Festival
mosque, and it set a precedent E Museum of Turkish (1st week of Jun–3rd week of Jul);
for the later widespread use of and Islamic Arts International Karagöz Festival
(2nd–3rd weeks of Nov).
İznik tiles (see p165). The tiles Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi
covering the walls of the prayer Yeşil Cad. Tel (0224) 327 76 79. Transport
hall, which is well lit by floor- Open 8am–noon, 1–5pm Mon–Fri. k 20 km (12 miles) NW of city
level windows, are simple, This interesting museum is centre. @ Yeni Yalova Yolu,
green and hexagonal. Against housed in a fine Ottoman-era (0224) 261 54 00.  Atatürk
this plain backdrop, the effect building, once the medrese Cad, near the State Theatre
of the mihrab is especially (see p36) associated with the or behind Heykel.
glorious. Predominantly Green Mosque. The façade of
turquoise, deep blue and the building is quite striking.
white, with touches of gold, A colonnade surrounds its E Bursa City Museum
courtyard on three Bursa Kent Müzesi
sides. The cells Atatürk Cad 8. Tel (0224) 220 26 26.
leading off from Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. 7
this courtyard are The former Justice courts
now exhibition have been restored as a lively
galleries. Exhibits museum that traces local life
date from the over many years. Displays show
12th to the 20th how culinary skills, handicrafts,
centuries, and costumes, archaeological
include Seljuk and artifacts and city planning
Ottoman ceramics, moulded urban spirit. Bursa city
elaborately deco- fathers, Atatürk and the local
rated Korans and commedia dell arte puppet
beautiful cere- genre of Karagöz (see p30)
Façade of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts monial costumes. have first-rate exhibits.
Bursa City Centre

1 Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque 7 Tombs of Osman and
2 Green Tomb Orhan Gazi Key
3 Green Mosque 8 Alaeddin Mosque
Street-by-Street area see pp168–9
4 Museum of Turkish and 9 Muradiye Mosque
Islamic Arts 0 Archaelogical Museum
5 Bursa City Museum
6 Tophane Citadel A N KARA C AD
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Bursa: The Market Area

Bursa’s central market area is a warren of streets and
Ottoman hans (warehouses). The area emphasizes the more
colourful and traditional aspects of this busy industrial city
and is a good place to experience the bustle of inner-city life.
Here too you can buy the local fabrics for which the city is
famous, particularly hand-made lace, towelling and silk.
The silkworm was introduced to the Byzantine empire in the
6th century, and for centuries
there was a brisk trade in silk
cocoons in Koza Han. Today, as . Covered Bazaar
well as silk products, you can The great bazaar, built by Mehmet I
in the 15th century, consists of a
also find hand-made, camelskin long hall with domed bays, with
Karagöz puppets (see p30). an adjoining high, vaulted hall.
The Bedesten is home to
jewellers’ shops.
. Great Mosque (Ulu Cami)
A three-tiered ablutions
fountain stands beneath
the central dome
of this monumental
mosque, which
was erected
in 1396–9.
Şengül
Hamamı
Turkish
baths
Bey Han (also called Emir Han)

was built as part of the Orhan
Gazi Mosque complex, to provide KO
Cafés ZA
revenue for the mosque’s upkeep. PA
RK
I
AT
Umur Bey Hamamı, built AT
ÜR
by Murat II (1421–51), is one of K
CA
the world’s oldest Turkish baths. D
It now houses workshops.
Koza Park
The gardens in front of Koza Han, with their
fountains, benches and shaded café tables,
are a popular meeting place for locals and
visitors throughout the day.
BURSA 169
. Koza Han
This is the most
attractive and
fascinating building
in the market area.
It was built in 1491
by Beyazıt II, and
was central to the
silk trade.
Fidan Han dates from

Geyve Han is
around 1470, when it was
also known as
built by a grand vizier of
İvaz Paşa Han.
Mehmet the Conqueror.
Flower Market
The numerous bunches
of flowers for sale in the
İçkoza streets around the town
Han hall make a picturesque
sight in the midst of Bursa’s
bustling market area.
K
SO
A
RS
BO
0 metres 40
0 yards 40
SO EK
K
M
UZ
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UN The Belediye, Bursa’s

ÇA
RŞ town hall, is a Swiss-
I C
AD chalet-style, half-
timbered building
that forms a surprising
landmark in the
centre of the city.
D
CA
YE
DI
LE
BE
Orhan Gazi Mosque

Built in 1339, just 13 years
after the Ottoman
Key conquest of Bursa, this
mosque is the oldest of the
Suggested route city’s imperial mosques.
Exploring Bursa the city was conquered in

1326. It is in the form of a
Tophane, the most ancient part of Bursa, is distinguished simple domed square, fronted
by its clock tower, which stands on top of a hill. This area by a portico of four Byzantine
was formerly the site of the citadel and is bounded by what columns with capitals. The
mosque was commissioned
remains of the original Byzantine walls. It is also known by Alaeddin Bey, brother of
as Hisar, which means “fortress” in Turkish. If you continue and vizier to Orhan Gazi.
westwards for 2 km (1 mile), crossing the Cılımboz River, you
come to the historic district of Muradiye. Çekirge (or “cricket”) Muradiye
is Bursa’s most westerly area. The origin of this name is not Muradiye is a leafy, residential
known, but the cool, leafy character of this suburb gives Bursa district of Bursa. Close to the
Muradiye Mosque, the Hüsnü
the tag of yeşil, or “green”, by which it is known in Turkey. Züber House is a fine example
of traditional 19th-century
Tophane the present-day commercial Ottoman architecture. The
Tophane’s northern limit is heart of the city further to interior is open to the public
marked by the best-preserved the east. and contains a display
section of the citadel walls, built of Anatolian wooden
on an outcrop of rock. At the  Tombs of Osman implements. To the north
top is a pleasant park, filled with and Orhan Gazi is a park, which is home
cafés, which also contains the Osman & Orhan to the Archaeological
imposing clock tower and the Gazi Türbeleri Museum.
tombs of Osman and Orhan Ulu Cami Cad. Open
Gazi, the founders of the daily. & donation. U Muradiye
Ottoman dynasty. Osman Gazi began Mosque
the process Muradiye Külliyesi
P Tophane Citadel of Ottoman Murat II Cad.
Tomb of Osman Gazi, the first great
Hisar expansion in Open daily.
Ottoman leader & donation.
Osman Gazi Cad. Open daily. 7 the 13th century
The Citadel walls can be viewed (see p56) and This mosque complex was
from a set of steps leading attempted to capture Bursa. But built by Murat II, the father
uphill from the intersection it was his son, Orhan, who took of Mehmet the Conqueror
of Cemal Nadir Caddesi and the city just before Osman Gazi (see p58), in 1447. The mosque
Atatürk Caddesi. These steps died. Orhan brought his father’s itself is preceded by a
end at the tea gardens above. body to be buried in the bap- graceful domed portico.
The citadel fell into Ottoman tistry of a converted church and Its wooden door is finely
hands when Orhan Gazi’s troops he himself was later buried in carved and the interior
broke through its walls. Later, the nave. The tombs that can decorated with early İznik
he built a wooden palace inside be seen today date from 1868. tiles (see p165). The medrese
the citadel and had the old (see p36), next to the mosque,
Byzantine ramparts re-fortified. U Alaeddin Mosque now serves as a dispensary.
Until this era the walls had Alaeddin Camii It is a perfectly square building,
delineated the entire Alaeddin Mahallesi. Open daily. ^ with cells surrounding a central
circumference of the ancient The Alaeddin Mosque is the garden courtyard. Its dershane,
city. However, Orhan encouraged oldest in Bursa: it was built or main classroom, is richly
Bursa’s expansion and developed in 1335, only nine years after tiled and adorned with an
ornate brick façade.
The mosque garden, with
its cypresses, well-tended
flowerbeds and fountains, is
one of Bursa’s most tranquil
retreats. Murat II was the last
of the Ottoman sultans to be
buried in Bursa and his
mausoleum stands in the
garden beside the mosque.
The other 11 tombs in the
garden are a reminder of the
Ottoman code of succession,
which recognized a future
sultan as the strongest (or
most cunning) male relative,
Popular café in the park above the ancient citadel walls in Tophane even if not always the most
BURSA 171
transport heritage.  New Spa

This museum traces Yeni Kaplıca-Karamustafa
the wheeled history Kaynarca Termal Otel and Baths,
of kupa (war chariots), Kükürtlü Mah, Osmangazi. Tel (0224)
ox carts, gun mountings, 236 69 68. Open 7am–11pm daily
hay ricks, pleasure (separate spas for men and women).
carriages and horse-drawn Contrarily, the New Spa baths
railway rolling stock. have a substantial pedigree and
Artistic motifs painted were rebuilt in 1522 by Rüstem
on carriages were a Paşa, grand vizier to Süleyman
craftsman’s early trademark. the Magnificent. Two steamy
The museum skilfully thermal water sources, Kaynarca
highlights carriage-making and Karamustafa, feed the
as a precision engineering therapeutic pools and
trade. Bursa is modern treatment centres, all set in
Turkey’s “motown” and expansive tropical gardens.
Interior of Muradiye Mosque, showing the a local automotive producer Karamustafa has been restored
decorative mihrab sponsored the research and as an aqua culture residential
reconstruction, applying complex. Kaynarca is only for
suitable to rule. Competing modern spare-parts cataloguing women, with professional spa
male relatives could expect techniques to latter-day staff, private baths and social
to be put to death or spend wagons. Housed in a former silk- facilities. Visitors unfamiliar with
most of their lives in enforced making factory, the museum is Turkey’s spa heritage will be
solitary confinement, known enhanced by beautiful gardens warmly welcomed here.
as “the cage”. This did not, and mature trees. A bookshop
however, prevent the ruling sells mainly books and posters P Çelik Palas Hotel
offspring from having an of the various wagons. Çelik Palas Otel Çekirge Cad 79.
emotive memorial built for Tel (0224) 233 38 00.
a deposed brother. Selim II This five-star hotel is a famous
(“the Sot”), for example, had local icon. Built in 1933, it is
an elaborate octagonal mauso- the city’s oldest and most
leum built in Bursa for his older prestigious spa hotel. Atatürk
brother, Mustafa. (see p62) frequented its baths,
which are open to both sexes.
Arkeoloji Müzesi  Old Spa
Resat Oyal, Kültür Parkı. Tel (0224) 234 Eski Kaplıca
49 18. Open 8am–noon & 1–5pm Kervansaray Termal Oteli, Çekirge
Tue–Sun. & - Meydanı Tel (0224) 233 93 00.
Finds dating from the 3rd Open 7am–10:30pm daily.
millennium BC up to the The Old Spa baths were
Ottoman conquest of Bursa The art of carriage-making, Bursa Museum established by Sultan Murat I in
in 1326 are collected in this of Anatolian Carriages the late 14th century and renova-
museum. The ceremonial ted in 1512 during the reign of
armour accessories are the Çekirge Beyazıt II. Bathers can enjoy
most interesting items, with The Çekirge neighbourhood the shallow pools of the
the Roman glass a close second. offers some of the most hot room while admiring
There are a number of Roman prominent and best developed the Byzantine columns
statues and bronzes, as well as natural mineral springs (kaplıca) supporting the domed roof.
Byzantine religious objects and in Turkey. In the 6th century,
coins. The labelling of objects Emperor Justinian (see p53)
has been improved. built a bathhouse here; his
wife, Theodora, arrived later
E Bursa Museum of with a retinue of about 4,000
Anatolian Carriages to take the waters.
Bursa Anadolu Arabaları Müzesi Today, Çekirge is the city’s
Umurbey Mah, Kapıcı Cad, Yıldırım. most attractive residential
Tel (0224) 329 39 41. Open 10am– area, still known for its
5pm Tue–Sun. - 7 (the museum therapeutic hot springs and
is mostly on one floor). = having excellent spa
The discovery of a 2,600-year- accommodation. Located
old carriage made of iron above the city, there are
and wood stimulated interest wonderful alpine vistas and Attractive, tranquil interior of the
in the city’s non-motorized cool breezes. Old Spa baths
9 Gallipoli Peninsula
Gelibolu Yarımadası
Washed by the Aegean Sea to the west, the Gallipoli
Peninsula is bordered to the east by the Dardanelles,
a strategic waterway giving access to the Sea of
Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Black Sea. In ancient
times, this deep channel was called the Hellespont.
Today, the peninsula is an unspoiled area of farmland
Suvla Bay
and pine forest, with some lovely stretches of sandy On 7 August 1915, British troops
beach. However, it was also the scene of one of the landed here in an attempt to break
bloodiest campaigns of World War I, in which more the stalemate further south.
than 500,000 Allied (Australian, British, French, Indian
and New Zealand) and Turkish soldiers laid down Küçükanafarta
their lives. The region has three museums, and is Suvla
Suvla Salt
Point
dotted with cemeteries and monuments. In 1973, Bay Lake
the Gallipoli National Historic Park was created in Nibrunesi

Point
recognition of the area’s great historical significance.
Limnea Kemalyeri
Anzac Cove
Aribururnu Cove
Z Beach (ANZAC)
W a r C ement eries
Brighton Beach Sestos
Mus eu m
Kabatepe
. Çanakkale Destanı Tanıtım Merkezi

The centre is also a museum, with exhibits of uniforms,
weapons, letters, photographs, shrapnel, other
memorabilia, and realistic video simulations relating Kum Bay
to the Gallipoli campaign.
French Cemetery
A sombre obelisk Behramli
and rows of Gözetleme
striking black
crosses honour
the French KRITHIA
(Alçitepe)
troops who
fell during the
Anglo-French
landing at War
Cape Helles on C ement eries
25 April 1915.
KEY Abide
1 The Çanakkale Şehitleri Cape H elles

Abidesi commemorates fallen Me mo ria l
Turkish soldiers.
2 At Y Beach, ambiguous signals 0 kilometres 5
led to an unauthorized withdrawal
on both sides. 0 miles 2
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp332 and pp349–50
Reconstructed
Trenches
At some points, the
Allied and Turkish
Gallipoli National Park.
trenches were no
Open 8am–5pm daily (winter);
more than a few
9am–6pm daily (summer).
metres apart.
“Çannakale Destanı Tanıtım
Merkezi”: Open 8:30am–6pm
daily. Tel (0286) 814 11 28.
E Mehmetcik Memorial:
Open 9am–6pm daily. &
_ ANZAC Day (24–25 Apr).
Transport
g from Çanakkale to Eceabat.
@ from Bursa and Istanbul.
Kumköy
Büyükanafarta
Yalova
. Chunuk Bair
Bigali Various monuments honour
G al l i p o l o
Ba t t l e fi el d s the 28,000 men who died
here on 6–9 August 1915.
At at ür k
S t at u e
C h u n uk
B a ir
M e hm e t c i k
M e mori a l Kilye Bay
. Mehmetcik Memorial
Eceabat This memorial was unveiled in
(Maidos)
1985. Atatürk’s eulogy unites
A t at ü rk the fallen sons of Turkey
Mu s e u m Çanakkale (Mehmetcik) with the Allied
dead (“Johnnies”).
Kilitibahir The
Narrows
The Gallipoli Campaign 1915–16
After the start of World War I, Allied leaders developed a plan
to seize the Dardanelles. This would give them control of
Constantinople and diminish the threat of Russia gaining
control of the strategic waterway. A naval assault was repulsed
Kepez by Turkish shore batteries and minefields, so the order was
given to land troops to secure the straits. At dawn on 25 April
i)
az
e B es
1915, British and French troops landed at the tip of the Gallipoli
oğ
al nell
Peninsula. Further north, a large force of ANZACs (Australia

a
rd
Da akk and New Zealand Army Corps) came ashore but met dogged
a n
( Ç
opposition from the Turkish defenders. A second landing at
Suvla Bay failed
to win any new
ground. Many
soldiers died
from disease,
drowning or
the appalling
conditions
of trench war-
fare. After nine
Key months, the
Major road Allied force
withdrew.
Other road
British troops landing under fire at Cape Helles
Minor road

THE AEGEAN
Discovering the Aegean region of Turkey takes
visitors on a panoramic, classical journey, from
Çanakkale on the Dardanelles (the ancient
Hellespont) to the finger of land off Marmaris known as
the Datça Peninsula. Together, the coast and hinterland tell
a story spanning some 5,000 years of Greek and Roman history.
This is where Homer’s myths and heroes come to life.
Here, it is easy to imagine the sculpture buildings as a defiant trademark. The

classes at Aphrodisias, the busy streets Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (modern-
of ancient Ephesus or a medical day Bodrum), built as the tomb of the
lecture at the famous Asclepium at Carian king Mausolus, was one of the
Pergamum (Bergama). Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Most of modern-day Turkey was The Aegean region contains many
once part of the eastern Roman empire, Christian sights. The Seven Churches of
known as Asia Minor. Many of the the Apocalypse, mentioned in the Book of
remote classical sites in the Aegean Revelation, surround İzmir; the last resting
region formed part of ancient Caria, place of the Virgin Mary is just outside
an independent kingdom whose Ephesus; St John’s Basilica is in Selçuk
boundaries roughly corresponded to and the castle of the Knights of St John
the Turkish province of Muğla. Caria’s still guards the harbour at Bodrum.
origins are disputed, but its resistance The Aegean’s original tourist resorts,
to Hellenization is well documented. such as Kuşadası, Marmaris and Bodrum,
The Carians prospered under Roman have now matured, and offer superb
rule but retained some autonomy, with facilities and sophisticated nightlife.
their sanctuary at Labranda, and Zeus as Bodrum’s Halikarnas disco has an
their deity. The Carian symbol, a double- international reputation, and Kuşadası
headed axe, was inscribed on many is known for its shopping.
Roman arched gateway at the ruined city of Hierapolis, near Denizli

Beautiful sandy beaches and azure sea along the coastline at Ayvalık
Exploring the Aegean Lâpseki
Around 26 million people – roughly a ÇANAKKALE

third of Turkey’s population – inhabit
Çan
the Aegean region. Here, incomes are
generally higher and the lifestyle more TROY
westernized than elsewhere in the Bayramic
country. Tourists are attracted to this
Ezine
area for its beaches, nightlife and
yachting, but there are many other Ayvac I k
Edremit
worthwhile sights from the green and
fertile Menderes River Valley to the BEHRAM KALE
Roman city of Ephesus near Selçuk. Burhaniye Savaştepe
Visitors can explore the countryside

AYVALIK
in day trips from Marmaris to Knidos
on the scenic Datça Peninsula. Soma
The Carian trail also links many
BERGAMA ay ı
beautiful sites between Lake Bafa kır
Ç
Kınık
Dikili Ba
and the tip of Datça Peninsula.
Sights at a Glance
Aliağa
1 Çanakkale Yenifoça
2 Troy
Karaburun FOÇA Manisa
3 Behram Kale (Assos)
4 Ayvalık Menemen
5 Bergama (Pergamum) pp180–81 Mordogan Turgutlu

İZMİR
6 Foça
7 İzmir pp182–3
ÇEŞME Urla
8 Çeşme
9 Selçuk
Menderes
0 Ephesus pp186–7
q Kuşadası
w Aydın Torbalı
e Menderes River Valley
SELÇUK
r Hierapolis pp190–91 K uşadası
EPHESUS
t Aphrodisias pp192–3
Körfezi Germencik
y Denizli
KUŞADASI
u Priene
Söke
i Miletus PRİENE
Dilek
o Didyma
p Lake Bafa LAKE
a Altınkum
MİLETUS BAFA
s Labranda Camiçi
DİDYMA
d Milas (Mylasa)
ALTINKUM
f Güllük Iasus
g Bodrum pp198–201
GÜLLÜK
j Marmaris pp204–5
BODRUM
Tours PENINSULA BODRUM
h Bodrum Peninsula Turgut Reis
Tour pp202–3
Gokova
k Datça Peninsula Kör fe zi
Tour pp206–7
ÇA
DA T
Datça
0 kilometres 50 Knidos
0 miles 25
Temple of Trajan, Bergama (Pergamum)

THE AEGEAN 177
Getting Around
The Aegean region is well served by
good roads and public transport.
Dolmuşes ply the routes to the smaller
Bursa towns and villages. İzmir and Bodrum
both have airports with frequent
Susurluk
connections to Istanbul. İzmir is also
served by rail, with connections to the
city’s Adnan Menderes Airport. Ferry
Kepsut services link İzmir, Marmaris and
Uma ı Bodrum with ports in Greece.
rla r D a ğ
Balıkesir
Dursunbey
Tavşanli
Bigadiç
Ala Emet
Sındırgı çam Dağları
Simav
Demirci Gediz
Akhisar Gördes
yı
Selendi Afyon
Ça
z
di
Demırköprü Ge Uşak
Gölü Barajı
Marmara Kula
Salihli
Eşme Pamukkale’s travertine terraces,

Alaşehir
Boz Dağla near Hierapolis
rı Çivril
Sarıgöl Adıgüzel
Ödemiş Barajı
Tire Key
rı Buldan
Aydın Dağla Motorway
Nysa Nazilli Dual carriageway
AYDIN Sarayköy HIERAPOLIS
LEY Major road
VA L
MENDERES RIVER Dinar
Ak
DENİZLİ Minor road

ça
y
Scenic route
Çine APHRODİSİAS Main railway
Kemer Minor railway
Barajı Tavas
Kale
LABRANDA
Lagina
Yatağan
Stratonikeia Muğla
MİLAS
Fethiye
MARMARİS
SUL A
PENIN İçmeler
Bodrum’s marina and Castle of St Peter

Museum, which is small but

should not be missed.
Arkeoloji Müzesi
Barbaros Mahallesi, Yüzüncü Yıl Cad.
Tel (0286) 217 23 71. Open 8am–5pm
Tue–Sun. &
2 Troy
n İskele Meydanı 67, Çanakkale,
Çanakkale, a historic crossing point between Asia and Europe (0286) 217 11 87.  from Çanakkale,
then taxi. _ Troy Festival (based in
1 Çanakkale Çanakkale makes the most Çanakkale but includes Troy and
convenient base for tours of the environs, 10–18 Aug).
* 214,000. g from Eceabat or Gallipoli battlefields (see pp172–3)
Kilitbahir. @ Atatürk Cad. n İskele across the straits. Few areas of Turkey have been
Meydanı 67, (0286) 217 11 87. ( Fri.
The town has an attractive as thoroughly excavated as Troy
_ Navy Days (13–18 Mar), ANZAC
harbour, a naval museum and a (Truva in Turkish). Nine different
Days (24–25 Apr), Sardine Festival
(30–31 Jul – Gelibolu).
colossal wooden horse that strata have yielded pieces of a
stands on the town’s waterfront. history that runs from
Çanakkale occupies the Çanakkale means “pottery around 4000 BC until
narrowest point of the straits castle” and the town about AD 300. Troy
called the Dardanelles, which are was once a centre for was the pivot of
1,200 m (3,937 ft) wide at this the production of Homer’s Iliad and
point. In 450 BC, the Persian King high-quality was where the
Xerxes built a bridge of boats kaolin for decade-long Trojan
here to land his troops in Thrace, a flourishing War (13th century BC)
and the final battles of the ceramics industry. was fought.
Peloponnesian War took place Today this type of The site is known
in these waters around 400 BC. clay is imported, as Hisarlık, or “castle
During his campaign to take but the vitreous enamel kingdom” in Turkish.
Constantinople in 1453, ware (see p364) made The stonework and
Mehmet II (the Conqueror) built in Çanakkale remains Reconstruction of the walls are impressive.
two fortresses to secure the one of Turkey’s top Trojan Horse Visible today are a
straits: Kilitbahir (on the European export earners. defence wall, two
side) and Çimenlik (in Çanakkale sanctuaries (probably dating
harbour). Today, ferry services link Environs from the 8th century BC),
Çanakkale with Kilitbahir and A few kilometres south of the houses from various periods
Eceabat on the other side. town is the Archaeological and a Roman theatre. The site
called the Pillar House at the
southern gate may have been
Schliemann’s Search for Ancient Troy the palace of King Priam.
The German-born Heinrich Schliemann – regarded by many as The site is well marked with
an unscrupulous plunderer and by others as an archaeological 12 information points and
pioneer – nurtured a lifelong ambition to discover Homer’s Troy. some ongoing excavations.
In 1873, three years after The most visible attraction is
starting excavations at Hisarlık, a large wooden Trojan Horse,
he stumbled upon what he a reconstruction of the device
claimed to be King Priam’s used by the Greeks to deceive
hoard of gold and silver and ultimately vanquish the
jewellery. The over-eager Trojans, and a universal symbol
explorer damaged the site, but
of treachery today. In August
his valuable find demonstrated
each year, Turkish school-
that Greek civilization started
1,000 years earlier than previously children release a white dove
believed. Part of the hoard, from the Trojan Horse to
which was on display in a Berlin celebrate peace.
museum, vanished after World
War II. It reappeared in the T Hisarlık
Pushkin Museum in Russia in 5 km (3 miles) from main E87 road. 
1996. Its return, authenticity and Heinrich Schliemann’s wife, wearing from Çanakkale every 30/40 minutes.
origins are still controversial. “Priam’s” jewellery Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov–
Mar: 9am–5pm daily. & - =
THE AEGEAN 179
5 Bergama
(Pergamum)
See pp180–81.
6 Foça
* 32,000. n Atatürk Bulvarı 1
(entrance to Foça), (0232) 812 55 34.
@ from İzmir to Foça turn off on main
E87.  from junction of E87. _
Tourism & Culture Festival (Aug–Sep).
Phocaea, ancient Foça, was

Humpbacked Ottoman bridge on the outskirts of Behram Kale probably settled around
1000 BC and was part of the
3 Behram Kale 4 Ayvalık Ionian League (see p194). Around
(Assos) * 64,000. @ 1.5 km (1 mile) N of 500 BC the Phocaeans were
town centre. n Opposite the yacht famed as mariners, sending
* 3,000. @ to Ayvacık, 19 km
harbour, (0266) 312 21 22. ( Thu. vessels powered by 50 oarsmen
(12 miles) N, then dolmuş.  from
-= into the Aegean, Mediterranean
Edremit or Çanakkale.
and Black Sea. There is a small
Nestled on the shores of the Gulf of Ayvalık takes its name from ayva, theatre dating from antiquity at
Edremit and sheltered by the Greek the Turkish word for quince, the entrance to the town. Near
island of Lesbos, 10 km (6 miles) but the fruit is only available in the centre of town, you will find
offshore, it is easy to see why Assos season (January and February). a stone tomb known as Taş Küle.
enjoyed the reputation of being Of the many villages along There is also a restored Genoese
the most beautiful place in Asia the Aegean coast peopled by fortress. But apart from a few
Minor. Ancient Assos reached Greeks until 1923 (see p62), hamams (Turkish baths), this
the pinnacle of its glory when Ayvalık is the one that has is the extent of Old Foça.
Plato’s protégé, Aristotle, founded most retained the flavour of a
a school of philosophy here in bygone age. There are many Environs
340 BC. In the 2nd century BC, stone houses, and the town’s 23 km (14 miles) up the coast
the town included not only the mosques betray their Greek is the town of Yenifoça (New
present citadel, with the remaining Orthodox origins. A Greek Foça), with good campsites and
Doric columns of the Temple of church and a few Greek- beaches. The military presence
Athena (built in the 6th century BC), speakers remain. in the area may have helped
but also the village of Behram Ayvalık’s appeal stems keep it off the tourist trail.
Kale, 238 m (781 ft) below. from its cobbled streets and Apart from summer weekends
St Paul is reputed to have leisurely lifestyle. The beach and holidays, it is an ideal
passed through Assos on his at Sarımsaklı and peninsula of place to escape the crowds.
third biblical journey, and the Alibey (also known by its Greek The area is known for its monk
town is referred to in the Acts name of Cunda) are within seal conservation programme,
of the Apostles. After the fall of reach by road. but they are seldom seen.
the Byzantine empire, the town’s
commercial fortunes declined,
but today this charming and
cultured retreat attracts many
artists and scholars, who leave
the bustle of the city and find
a source of inspiration here.
As you come into the town,
note the fine Ottoman bridge
dating from the 14th century.
There is also a mosque and a fort
from this time, all built by Sultan
Murat I. Residents of Assos favour
houses with archways and
overhanging balconies, and there
is bougainvillea everywhere.
T Assos
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7:30pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. Boats, old houses and up-market cafés in Foça’s harbour
5 Bergama (Pergamum)
Perched on a hilltop above the modern town of Bergama,
the great acropolis of Pergamum is one of the most
dramatic sights in Turkey. Originally settled by the Aeolian
Greeks in the 8th century BC, it was ruled for a time by
one of Alexander the Great’s generals. The city prospered
under the Pergamene dynasty founded by Eumenes I,
who ruled from 263 to 241 BC, when this was one of the
ancient world’s main centres of learning. The last ruler of
this dynasty, Attalus III, bequeathed the kingdom to Rome
in 133 BC, and Pergamum became capital of the Roman
province of Asia. The great physician Galen was born here . Temple of Trajan
Built of white marble, it was
in AD 129, and established a famous medical centre, the
completed during Hadrian II’s
Asclepieum, which is situated on a low hill around 8 km reign (AD 125–138).
(5 miles) from the Acropolis of Pergamum.
City Walls
Eumenes II (197–159 BC) extended the city
walls until they reached a length of about
4 km (3 miles), enclosing the entire hilltop.
Plan of Pergamum
Arsenal W
Palace al
Gate lC
ou
rs
Heroon e
Temple of Altar of Zeus
Trajan Theatre
Upper
Temple Agora East
of Dionysus Baths
Upper
Terrace Gymnasium
Acropolis
Wa
ll C
ou
rs
e
Lower Agora
Temenos of
Demeter
Key Ulu Cami us
lin
0 metres
Se
Bergama 500
Building Town
0 metres 0 yards 500
Road 400 To Archaeological
Museum &
Ancient Road 0 yards 400 Asclepieum
THE AEGEAN 181
Pergamum: Tel (0232) 483 51 17.
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily
(to 5pm Nov–Mar). &
Asclepieum: Tel (0232) 483 51 17.
Open Apr–Oct: 8:30am–7pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily.
Transport
@ from İzmir.
Library Ruins
Reputedly containing 200,000 parchment scrolls, many works
from Pergamum went to its rival library in Alexandria as part
of Mark Anthony’s wedding gift to Cleopatra in 41 BC.
. Altar of Zeus
One of Pergamum’s largest
temples, the first stone reliefs of
the building were found in the
1870s. The altar was rebuilt in
Berlin’s Pergamum Museum.
KEY
1 Temple of Dionysus
2 Arsenal
3 King’s Palace
4 Temple of Athena
5 The Heroon was a shrine built
to honour the kings of Pergamum.
6 The Upper Agora (marketplace)
lay immediately below the Altar of
Zeus. From here, a ramp led up to
to the main city gate.
7 Theatre Terrace
. Theatre
Constructed in the 3rd
century BC, the theatre has
80 rows of seats and an
estimated capacity of
10,000. The seats were
constructed of andesite, and
the royal box in the lower
section is made of marble.
7 İzmir style offers a strong contrast to

the exquisite simplicity of the
The most western-leaning of Turkish cities, İzmir’s position tiny Konak Mosque (Konak
at the head of the Gulf of İzmir (İzmir Körfezi) has given Camii) that nestles beside it.
it a trading edge that has lasted from the 3rd century AD
( Kızlarağası Han
to today. For centuries, it was known as Smyrna, a name Look for signs off the N end of Fevzi
possibly derived from the myrrh trees that grow here. Paşa Cad. Open 8am–9pm Mon–Sat.
The city’s origins are believed to date from 8500 BC, based This typical Ottoman trading
on finds from the Teşılova Mound. Until 1922, the city had complex (see pp28–9) has been
a large Christian population, including thousands of Greek restored, with the courtyard
turned into a café. There are
Orthodox, most of whom fled during the turmoil of the
craft and furniture restoration
War of Independence (see p61). As Turkey’s third largest workshops on the upper floor.
city and the regional headquarters of NATO, İzmir has a This is a good place to purchase
multicultural sophistication. handicrafts and copper.
5 St Polycarp Church
E Ethnographic Museum Necatibey Sok 2. Tel (0232) 484 84 36.
Next to the Archaeology Museum. Open to groups only,
Open 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. & 9am–noon & 3–5pm daily.
Housed in a former French The patron saint of İzmir,
hospital, built in 1831, the St Polycarp was a
museum highlights local crafts Christian martyr
and skills – from quilting and who gave us the
adage, “The CUMHUR⁄YET
felt-making to weapons and MEYD
The Governor’s Palace, in the centre woodblock printing. Bridal
GAANP
of the city
M
costumes, glassware, an oven
ZİO AŞA
S-
used to fire blue beads (mavi
BUL
Exploring İzmir boncuk) and a replica of St Polycarp
İzmir’s broad boulevards are Church
ET
İzmir’s first apothecary shop.
H URİY
L
BU
balanced by leafy pedestrian The museum remains open
H İB İT
EY
FET ŞEH
precincts. Buses, ferries and a during renovation work.
M
metro make it easy to get

CU
around. Horse-drawn carriages P Konak Clock Tower Pasaport Pier KEMALE TTİN CA D
also offer a more traditional way Saat Kulesi Çankaya

Konak Square. @ any bus
1
to get around the city. Be sure

86
to explore the old wharf area marked “Konak”. Kızlarağası Han

D
CA
(İskele), now restored as a Built in 1901, the clock BAZAAR

RK
86
stylish shipping pier. tower is the symbol of

853
92 9
3
AT
Ü
D
AT
İzmir. It was one of 58

CA
Konak Clock Tower Konak

E Archaeology Museum
R
built in Ottoman times Camii

LA
KONAK TA
Konak Pier MEYDANI ANA FA R
Halil Paşa Cad, Bahri Baba Park İçı. to encourage Turks
D
CA
846
Tel (0232) 483 51 17. Open Apr– to adopt European KEMERALTI

848
NE
Konak
Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar: 8am–
PHA
timekeeping habits. Konak

5pm. & with permission.
UTU
Atatürk Bus
D
İzmir’s is one of
CA
Cultural Terminal
L IK
Centre D
M IL
The main displays the finest of these CA

ŞA
Ş A
monuments. Its T PA
P A
consist of artifacts from MİT

HA
ornate decorative
EF
the Teşılova Mound, which Asansör Ethnographic

R
Archaeology Museum
Ş
was settled from about 3000

E
Museum
to 300 BC. The Byzantine
glassware is especially eye-
catching, but the highlight spirit indeed is willing, but the
is the Treasury (Hazine). flesh is weak.” This is the oldest
It is kept locked and the Roman Catholic church in İzmir
guard may need to be and the seat of the Catholic
summoned, but the gold archbishop. Permission to
jewellery dating from the build a chapel to St Polycarp
6th to the 3rd centuries BC was granted in 1620 by
offers ample proof of Süleyman the Magnificent
ancient artistic talent. (see p60). To the right of the
The Roman and Byzantine altarpiece is a self-portrait of
imperial silver and gold The Konak mosque, adorned with ceramic tiles Raymond Peré, designer of
coins are well displayed. from Kütahya the Konak Clock Tower.
THE AEGEAN 183
* 4,100,000. n Akdeniz Mah
1344 Sok No 2, Pasaport İzmir,
(0232) 483 51 17. _ Liberation
Day (9 Sep), International Arts
Festival (10 Jun–10 Jul).
∑ izmirturizm.gov.tr
Transport
g Alsancak. £ Basmane,
Corinthian columns in the Agora, the city market in Roman times Eyül Meydanı 9; Alsancak, Ziya
Gökalp Bulvarı, (0232) 464 77 95.
T Agora k Adnan Menderes, 12 km
0 metres 400 (8 miles) SE of city centre, (0232)
Tel (0232) 483 46 96.
0 yards 400 Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov– 274 26 26. @ 8 km (5 miles) NE
Mar: 8am–5pm. & of city centre, (0232) 472 10 10.
The present remains of the
Agora, the central market
of the Roman city of Smyrna,
Alsancak terminal
600 metres (650 yards)
date from about the 2nd
138
century AD, when it was
VA S 1
IF Ç IN rebuilt by the Emperor
AR
BUL
LOZAN Marcus Aurelius following
137 MEYD
8
an earthquake in AD 178.
9
137
There are several Corinthian

SEHİT NE K ültürpark
VRES BE
Y BUL MONTRÖ columns with well-preserved
MEYD
capitols still standing, and
LU I
YOEVG
R E F IK
enough arches, as well as

S
K
SO
L
BU
74
part of a basilica (city hall),

SA Y
13
F
RE
Airport
to give the flavour of a
EŞ
HÜ
DAM
20km (12 miles)

RR
İR
İY Bus terminal
ŞA
ET 8km (5 miles) Roman town. It was used

BUL
BU
BU
L
L
A BU L until the Byzantine period.

GAZİ BUL DOKUZ M Ü RS EL P AŞ
EYLÜL
1369 MEYD
T Velvet Castle Dario Moreno Street, with the Asansör in
ÇANKAYA
F E V Z İ P AŞ A BUL Basmane G A Z İ L E R C A D Kadifekale the background
OT
Train Station @ from Konak Clock Tower
E L I E R SOK
marked “Kale”, then on foot. Asansör
AKINCİ
A N A FA R TA L A R C A D
Also known as Mount Pagos, Open 7am–late.
967
the Velvet Castle was built Tel (0232) 261 26 26 (restaurant).

945
on Hellenistic foundations. The Asansör is a working

Agora
Originally it had 40 towers, 19th-century elevator in the
with numerous additions Karataş district. From its roof-
made by the Romans, top restaurant, there are fine
Genoese and Ottomans views over the city.
over the centuries. Leafy Dario Moreno Street
CA D The castle is a good (Dario Moreno Sokaği) lies in a
Dİ
EN
EF spot for an afternoon’s restored section of İzmir’s old
Lİ
A
HA
CI outing, and offers Jewish quarter. The street is
Velvet Castle unsurpassed vistas named after a 1960s singer who
over İzmir Bay. was fond of the city.
Sights at a Glance
1 Archaeology Museum
2 Ethnographic Museum
3 Konak Clock Tower
4 Kızlarağası Han
5 St Polycarp Church
6 Agora
7 Velvet Castle
The Velvet Castle (Kadifekale), İzmir’s ancient citadel

8 Çeşme
* 39,000. g from Chios. @ 1 km
(0.5 mile) S of ferry dock.  for local
sights. n İskele Meydani 8, (0232)
712 66 53. ( Wed and Sun; Sat
(Alaçatı). _ İzmir International Arts
Festival (10 Jun–10 Jul).
The town’s main feature is the

14th-century Genoese Castle
of St Peter, a powerful symbol
of Italian Renaissance
mercantilism. Sultan Beyazıt II
(1481–1512) fortified the castle
to counter attacks by both
pirates and the Knights of Çeşme waterfront, with the Castle of St Peter above the town
St John, who operated from
bases on the island of Rhodes 9 Selçuk bronze statues and frescoes
and at Bodrum (see pp200–1). are beautifully displayed, and
* 35,000. £ from İzmir or Denizli.
The castle contains a museum @ Atatürk Cad. n Agora Çarşısı 35
exhibits include a sculpture of
with nautical exhibits. The hotel (0232) 892 63 28. ∑ selcuk.gov.tr. Artemis, jewels and numerous
next to the harbour was ( Sat. _ Camel Wrestling (3rd and artifacts thought to have come
formerly a kervansaray 4th week in Jan). from the nearby Artemision,
(see pp28–9). the ancient Temple of Artemis
Unlike other more popular Visitors often bypass Selçuk (one of the Seven Wonders
resorts, Çeşme is dedicated to on their way to Ephesus, but it of the Ancient World). Today,
promenading, yachting and the deserves a stopover. The town the waterlogged ruins of the
simpler pleasures of life. There is dominated by a 6th-century Artemision are home to storks,
are several fine restaurants, Byzantine citadel (Ayasoluk Hill) who nest on the columns.
and the cosmopolitan, tolerant with 15 well-preserved towers. The İsa Bey Mosque, an
atmosphere attracts world-class Nearby are the remains of a ornate 14th-century Seljuk
performers, who come here for Byzantine church and a Seljuk mosque, is located near the
the month-long İzmir mosque. You enter the citadel museum. It is not always open
International Arts Festival. through a Byzantine gate. At the to visitors but the exterior
The long peninsula around foot of the hill is the Basilica of calligraphy and inlaid tilework
Çeşme is serviced by a fast, St John, built by the Emperor are worth a visit.
six-lane highway from İzmir. Justinian (see pp54–5) in the
However, you can still take the 6th century on the site of an E Ephesus Museum
old road, stopping at beaches earlier shrine. It is believed to Behind Tourism Information Office.
in Ilıca or spending an contain the tomb of St John Tel (0232) 892 60 10. Open 8:30am–
afternoon at Alaçatı, the the Evangelist, who spent his noon & 12:30–5pm daily. &
kite- and windsurfing capital later years at Ephesus during
of Turkey, where wind energy the 1st century. Restoration Environs
supplies a quarter of the town’s has brought back some of The former Greek village of
power requirements. the basilica’s former glory, and Şirince, 8 km (5 miles) east
there are some fine frescoes of Selçuk, is set in verdant hills,
E Museum in the chapel. but it can get very busy with
Çeşme Castle. Open 9am–noon & The Ephesus Museum is one coach tours.
1–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & of Turkey’s best. Marble and At Çamlık is the Open-Air
Steam Train Exhibition, a
museum run by Turkish State
Railways. There are more than
24 steam locomotives and
other railway vehicles on
display at the site.
E Open-Air Steam Train

Exhibition
Çamlık, 12 km (7 miles) S of Selçuk
on the E87. &
0 Ephesus
Byzantine gateway in Selçuk, at the foot of Ayasoluk Hill See pp186–7.
THE AEGEAN 185
q Kuşadası salmon. In the 1920s,

* 50,000. g from Samos (Apr–
Atatürk (see p62)
Oct).  from Selçuk, Söke and İzmir.
targeted the region as
@ 1 km (0.5 mile) S of town centre the focus of a new state-
on Söke road. n Liman Cad 13, owned cotton industry.
(0256) 614 11 03. ( Wed. Today, raw cotton and
ready-to-wear clothing
Kuşadası is a frequent port remain Turkey’s biggest
of call for luxury cruise liners. export commodities.
It has a lively restaurant Suffering badly
and nightlife scene in the Camel wrestling, a popular event in Aydın in the War of Indep-
summer months. endence (see p62),
The town’s name, meaning w Aydın nowadays Aydın is more
“bird island”, is taken from an peaceful, with a museum and
* 195,000. @ 700 m (0.5 mile) S of
islet, known as Pigeon Island, several distinctive mosques.
town centre. £ from İzmir and
tacked onto the mainland by Denizli. n Adnan Menderes Mah-
a causeway. A 14th-century E Museum
Denizli Bul 2, (0256) 211 28 42. ( Tue.
Genoese fort reveals the _ Camel Wrestling (Sep–Mar), Fig Next to the Forum shopping centre.
town’s commercial origins. Festival (1st week in Sep), Chestnut Tel (0256) 225 22 59. Open 9am–
Festival (Dec). noon, 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun. & - =
Environs
Dilek Peninsula National Park Known in Roman times
protects the last of Turkey’s as Tralles, Aydın’s tranquil e Menderes River
wild horses and rare Anatolian appearance stems from long Valley
cheetahs. The military presence periods of prosperity. It was
has ensured that the area has known variously as Caesarea One of Turkey’s main grain-
been left undisturbed. Hike and Güzelhisar before falling growing regions, and a major
to the summit of Samsun Dağı under Ottoman rule in the producer of fruit and cotton,
(ancient Mount Mycale) for late 14th century. Frequent the Menderes Valley is made up
fine views of the peninsula. earthquakes have meant that of the Büyük Menderes (Great
there are few ruins to be seen, Meander) and Küçük Menderes
O Dilek Peninsula National Park and the region is still subject (Lesser Meander) rivers, with a
Dilek Yarımadası Milli Parkı 18 km to tremors. wide alluvial plain in between.
(11 miles) W of Söke.  from The region is famous for its The S-shaped bends formed
Kuşadası or Söke. Tel (0256) 646 10 figs (incir), black olives, cereals by the slow-moving Büyük
79. Open 8am–6pm daily. and cotton, and Aydın is a Menderes below Aydın have
& extra for vehicles. leading exporter of snails and given us the word “meander”.
Nysa, a Seleucid foundation
dating from around 280 BC,
presents a lovely sight as you
approach from Sultanhisar (just
to the south). There is a theatre
overlooking a tributary of
the Büyük Menderes, and a
gymnasium, library, agora and
council house. The whole city
is built in and over a ravine
(although the bridge is in poor
condition). Its claim to fame
was as a sanctuary to Pluto,
god of the underworld.
At Tire, north of Aydın, lie
the remains of a number of
kervansarays (see pp28–9) dating
from the 14th and 15th centuries.
In the wake of the capture of
Constantinople in 1453,
Mehmet II (see p58) ordered
the removal of the inhabitants
of Tire, as part of the effort to
repopulate the capital. There is a
dramatic domed bazaar building
here and a lively bazaar is still
The yacht marina at Kuşadası, one of the largest on the Aegean coast held each week on Tuesdays.
0 Ephesus
Ephesus is one of the greatest ruined cities in the Western
world. A Greek city was first built here in about 1000 BC
and it soon rose to fame as a centre for the worship of
Cybele, the Anatolian Mother Goddess. The city we see
today was founded in the 4th century BC by Alexander the
Great’s successor, Lysimachus. But it was under the Terraced Houses
The murals and fine interior decor of the
Romans that Ephesus became the chief port on the houses opposite the Temple of Hadrian
Aegean. Most of the surviving structures date from this suggest the occupants were wealthy.
period. As the harbour silted up the city declined, but
played an important role in the spread of Christianity.
Two great Councils of the early Church were held here
in AD 431 and 449. It is said that the Virgin Mary spent her
last days nearby and that St John the Evangelist came
from the island of Patmos to look after her.
. Library of Celsus
Built in AD 114–117 by Consul Gaius Julius Aquila for his father, the
library was damaged first by the Goths and then by an earthquake in
1000. The statues occupying the niches in front are Sophia (wisdom),
Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intellect) and Episteme (knowledge).
The House of Mary

According to the Bible, the crucified Jesus asked St John the
Evangelist to look after his mother, Mary. John brought Mary with
him to Ephesus in AD 37, and she spent the last years of her life
here in a modest stone
house. The house of the
Blessed Virgin is located
at Meryemana, 6 km
(4 miles) from the centre
of Ephesus. The shrine,
known as the Meryemana
Kultur Parkı, is revered 0 metres 200
by both Christians and
0 yards 200
Muslims, and pilgrims
of both faiths visit the
shrine, especially on
The house of the Blessed Virgin 15 August every year.
THE AEGEAN 187
. Theatre VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Carved into the flank
of Mount Pion during Practical Information
the Hellenistic 3 km (2 miles) W of Selçuk,
period, the theatre on Efes Müzesi Uğur Mumcu
was later renovated Sevgi Yolu. Tel (0232) 892 60 11
by the Romans. (museum). n Selçuk tourist
office, (0232) 892 69 45.
Open Apr–Oct: 8:30am–7pm;
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm. & = -
Transport
 from Selçuk.
. Temple of Hadrian
Built to honour a visit by Hadrian
in AD 123, the relief marble work
on the façade portrays mythical
gods and goddesses.
Gate of Hercules
The gate at the entrance to Curetes
Street takes its name from two reliefs
showing Hercules draped in a lion skin.
Originally a two-storey structure, and
believed to date from the 4th century AD,
it had a large central arch with winged
victories on the upper corners of the
archway. Curetes Street was lined by
statues of civic notables.
KEY
1 Temple of Domitian
2 Private houses featured murals
and mosaics.
3 The brothel was adorned with
a statue of Priapus, the Greek god
of fertility.
4 The Commercial Agora was
the main marketplace of the city.
5 The skene (stage building)
featured elaborate ornamentation.
6 Marble Street was paved with
blocks of marble.
7 The Odeon (meeting hall) was
built in AD 150.
8 Colonnaded Street Lined with
Ionic and Corinthian columns, the
street runs from the Baths of Varius
to the Temple of Domitian.
9 Baths of Varius
Spectacular travertine pools at Pamukkale

r Hierapolis
In Hellenistic times, the thermal springs at Hierapolis
made the city a popular spa. Today, the ruins of Hierapolis
still draw visitors, who come to swim in its mineral-rich
pools and to see the startling white travertine terraces
of nearby Pamukkale. Founded by Eumenes II, king
of Pergamum (see pp180–81), the city was noted for its
textiles, particularly wool. Hierapolis was ceded to Rome
in 133 BC along with the rest of the Pergamene kingdom.
The city was destroyed by an earthquake in AD 60, and
was rebuilt and reached its peak in AD 196–215. Hierapolis
fell into decline in the 6th century, and the site became
partially submerged by water and deposits of travertine.
. Arch of Domitian
The main thoroughfare of Hierapolis was a wide,
colonnaded street called the Plateia, which ran
from the Arch of Domitian to the south gate.
Ancient Pool
The popular bathing
pool, littered with
fragments of marble
columns, may be the
remains of a sacred
pool associated with
the Temple of Apollo.
Pamukkale
The spectacular white travertine terraces at Pamukkale, next to
Hierapolis, have long been one of Turkey’s most popular (and
photographed) sights. The terraces form when water from the
hot springs loses carbon
dioxide as it flows down
the slopes, leaving
deposits of limestone.
The layers of white calcium
carbonate, built up in
steps on the plateau,
have earned the name of
Pamukkale (cotton castle).
To protect them from
damage, the terraces are 0 metres 125
Travertine terraces, Pamukkale now off-limits to visitors. 0 yards 125
THE AEGEAN 191
19 km (12 miles) N of Denizli.
Tel (0258) 272 20 77.
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily.
& additional fee for parking.
_ Pamukkale Festival (music
and folklore performances,
late May/early Jun).
∑ pamukkale.gov.tr
Transport
Necropolis
£ from İzmir, get off at Denizli.
The largest ancient graveyard in Anatolia, with more than 1,200 tombs,
 from Denizli.
the necropolis (one of two at Hierapolis) contains tumuli, sarcophagi
and house-shaped tombs from the Roman, Hellenistic and early
Christian periods.
Eight-sided chambers
were separated by eight
The octagonal polygonal spaces.
rotunda was paved
in marble.
The crypt is
believed to have
contained the
body of St Philip.
. Martyrium
of St Philip
Built in the 5th century
AD, on the site where the
apostle was crucified and stoned
Entrance chambers in AD 80, the building measures
were paved with limestone. 20 m (65 ft) per side. The side arcades
were used as accommodation.
KEY
1 6th-century basilica
2 Site museum in Roman baths
3 Nymphaeum
4 Church
5 Agora
6 Site of early theatre . Theatre
The well-preserved theatre, built in 200 BC,
7 Baths and church
could seat 20,000. However only 30 rows
8 Necropolis of seats have survived. Shown here is the
skene, or stage building.
t Aphrodisias
The site of Aphrodisias was a shrine as early as 5800 BC,
when Neolithic farmers came here to worship the
Mother Goddess of fertility and crops. At some
point, the site was dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess
of love, and was given the name Aphrodisias during
the 2nd century BC. For centuries it remained little
more than a shrine, but when the Romans defeated
the Pontic ruler Mithridates (see p52) in 74 BC,
Aphrodisias was rewarded for its loyalty and
prospered as a cultural and artistic hub known for . Stadium
The stadium is one of the best-
its exquisite marble sculptures. During the Byzantine preserved structures of its kind
era, the Temple of Aphrodite became a Christian from the classical era.
basilica. Gradually, the city faded into obscurity,
later becoming the Turkish village of Geyre.
. Temple of Aphrodite
Fourteen columns of the temple
have been re-erected. The lateral
colonnades shown here became
the nave of the Christian basilica.
KEY
1 The stepped platform was

built on a stone foundation.
2 Gable ends were surmounted
by statues, called akroteria.
3 The west cella was used as
a treasury.
4 The cult statue of Aphrodite
stood in the cella.
5 Fluted columns were
constructed from marble drums Theatre
that were quarried nearby. Completed in 27 BC, structural changes were made in
AD 200 to make it suitable for gladiatorial spectacles.
THE AEGEAN 193
Between Aydın and Denizli,
40 km (24 miles) S of E87 highway
to Geyre. Tel (0256) 448 80 86
(museum). Open 8am–7pm daily
(to 5pm Nov–Mar). & = -
. Tetrapylon
One of the jewels of Aphrodisias,
this 2nd-century gateway was
reconstructed with four groups
The Atatürk Ethnography Museum
of Corinthian columns.
in Denizli
y Denizli
* 275,000. n 554/1 Sokak 5, (0258)
264 39 71.
Denizli is often thought of as a

tourist backwater, but the town
has little need to pander to
visitors. It is a thriving agricultural
centre, a centre for carpet
production and one of Turkey’s
major textile towns, continuing
Sculptures
a prosperous trade begun as far
Works produced
back as Roman times. Today,
by the city’s
famous school of Aegean cotton fibres fetch
sculpture were more on world markets than
exported as far many other spun cottons.
afield as North Denizli, literally translated as
Africa and Rome. “with sea”, takes its name from
Some are the many springs that feed the
exhibited in the River Lycus. In pre-Roman times,
museum. another city linked with water,
Hydrela, was located here.
Denizli is a good base for touring
the ancient sites of Hierapolis
. Temple of Aphrodite and Pamukkale (see pp190–91),
Completed in the 1st century AD, the the latter being about 22 km
temple was the heart of Aphrodisias. It was (16 miles) away.
later converted for Christian worship, with The town was conquered by
walls and colonnades dismantled and the Seljuks in the 11th century
reused to enlarge and modify the building. and came under Ottoman rule
in 1428. At some point in
between, when Denizli was
Plan of Aphrodisias known as Ladik, it seems that the
0 metres
inhabitants of nearby Laodiceia
50
moved here after their own city
North Temenos 0 yards 50
Complex was ravaged by one of the
many earthquakes that have
Temple of marked this region.
Aphrodite
Odeon Tetrapylon The Atatürk Ethnography
Museum
Museum has some interesting
local folk art and decorative
Agora
artifacts on display. Denizli’s
Sebasteion Great Mosque (Ulu Camii) is
Portico of Tiberius also worth a visit.
Theatre
Large E Atatürk Ethnography Museum
Basilica Key
Kayalık Cad, Saraylar Mah 459 Sok 10.
Theatre Baths Building Tel (0258) 262 00 66. Open 8am–5pm
Tue–Sun (to 7pm summer). &
The Temple of Athena at Priene, a superb example of Ionian architecture
u Priene (council chamber) could hold of the Ionian League, and

640 delegates. There is also flourished as a centre for art
 from Söke or Milas to Güllübahçe.
a stadium, complete with and industry. In Roman times it
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
starting blocks for athletes, supplied wool and textile dyes
and sanctuaries to Demeter to the wool trade in Ankara
The ancient city of Priene has and Kore. The lower gymnasium (see pp244–5). One of its sons,
a breathtaking setting between walls are adorned with school- the scientist and mathematician
the Büyük Menderes River and boy graffiti from over 2,000 Thales – known as one of the
Mount Mykale. Like Miletus and years ago. Seven Sages of Antiquity –
Ephesus (see pp186–7), it was a correctly forecast a total eclipse
member of the Ionian League, a of the sun in 580 BC.
group of 12 city-states believed i Miletus The Persians took control of
to have been settled by Greek  from Söke or Milas. Open Apr–
the Ionian cities in the mid-6th
colonists before 1000 BC. Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am– century BC. Miletus led a revolt
Laid out by the architect 5pm daily. Directions: take the road against Persian rule in 500–494
Hippodamos of Miletus in that descends to Didyma, turn W at BC, but in 479 BC succumbed to
about 450 BC, Priene is in a the village of Akköy, 7km (4 miles) the tyrannical Persian king, Darius.
good state of preservation. from the main road. & It was rebuilt by the Romans.
The Temple of Athena, built in Of the surviving buildings, the
the 4th century BC in honour Although less impressive than finest is the 15,000-seat theatre,
of the city’s patron goddess, Priene, Miletus was more dating from AD 100. Over the
is considered one of the great renowned for its art, politics and centuries, Greeks, Romans and
achievements of Ionian trade than many other Greek Byzantines all made alterations to
architecture. The work was cities. Known as Milet today, the structure. The bouleuterion
supervised and financed by it was once the principal port (council chamber) was built in
Alexander the Great (see pp50– 175–164 BC during the reign of
51) when he occupied the city. the Seleucid king, Antiochus IV
Because of Priene’s strong Ephiphanes. The well-preserved
Greek ties, it was not viewed Baths of Faustina date from
with favour by the Romans. AD 43, and were named for
Its importance declined and the wife of Emperor
by Byzantine times it had Marcus Aurelius.
been abandoned. This The complex includes a
neglect has meant palaestra (gymnasium),
that Priene is one of the and there is a stadium
most intact Hellenistic nearby. The Baths of
settlements to be seen. Faustina was a model for
The theatre, dating from the development of the
the 3rd century BC, Turkish bath, or hamam
could seat 5,000 people. (see p81). It is also worth
The bouleuterion İlyas Bey Mosque, built in the 15th century at Miletus strolling around the
THE AEGEAN 195
stadium, nymphaeum
(reservoir) and shrine of Apollo
Delphinius (built in 500 BC).
Incongruously, a mosque
reposes amid the ruins of
ancient Miletus. The İlyas Bey
(or Balat) Mosque was built in
1403 by İlyas Bey, emir (ruler)
of the Beylik of Menteşe. It
celebrated his return from exile
at the court of the Mongol ruler
Timur, also known as Tamerlane,
after Timur’s invasion of Anatolia
in 1402. The mosque is built The Temple of Apollo in Didyma, with its ornate carved columns
of brick and both white and
coloured marble that was taken o Didyma the head of Medusa, with its
from Roman Miletus. There is  from Söke or Milas to Yenihisar.
serpentine curls, has become
splendidly detailed carving g from Bodrum twice a week in almost synonymous with Didyma.
on the marble window grilles, summer (check first). n Kaymakam- The well below the Medusa
screen and prayer niche lık Binası, (0256) 811 37 25. head was the place where
(mihrab), and the use of Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; arriving pilgrims would purify
coloured marble on the Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & themselves before approaching
façade is impressive. The the oracle. It is now roped off
dome measures 14 m (45 ft) The prime reason to visit Didyma to prevent accidents.
in diameter and was the largest (modern Didim) is for the Temple In its heyday, the Temple of
built during the Beylik period of Apollo, built in the 7th century Apollo featured 108 Ionic
(see p57). İlyas Bey died the BC to honour the columns. Only three are still
year after the mosque god of prophecy intact. However, the surviving
was completed and is and oracles. By stumps are still impressive.
buried in the adjacent 500 BC, the shrine The Temple of Apollo was
tomb (dated 1404). at Didyma was one destroyed by Persians in the mid-
The mosque is a of the leading oracles 6th century BC, but was restored
beautiful early of the Greek world. around 350 BC by Alexander the
forerunner of the It even had a sacred Great. With the coming of
Ottoman külliye (see spring. Branchid priests, Christianity, the temple was
p36), a building style who were reputedly converted into a church and
that flourished during Head of Medusa, connected to the great Didyma became a bishopric.
the 16th century. The Didyma oracle at Delphi, were in In 1493, an earthquake destroyed
külliye combined social charge of the shrine. the temple and Didyma was
welfare and residential Marble from nearby Lake Bafa abandoned. The Ottomans
functions with facilities (see p196) was used to build renamed it Yenihisar (new castle)
for Islamic worship. the temple. A carved relief of in the 18th century.
The impressive theatre at Miletus, capable of seating 15,000 in Roman times

p Lake Bafa
25 km (16 miles) W of Söke. D via
Söke or Milas. } - S D  Ó
Considered one of the most

picturesque landscapes in
Turkey, the Lake Bafa area is
the setting for several classical
gems, with the peaks of Mount
Latmos as a backdrop. Rising
to 1,500 m (4,915 ft), the
mountain is aptly known as
Beş Parmak (five fingers).
In ancient times, Lake Bafa
was an arm of the sea. When silt
eventually closed the gulf, the
port of Herakleia, near the Lake Bafa, an arm of the Aegean in ancient times
eastern shore of the lake, was left
landlocked. The same process Euromos was, in fact, an as Didyma, or Didim (on bus
was responsible for the decline of amalgamation of several schedules, for example). Like
Miletus and Priene (see pp194–5). cities, including Herakleia, many idyllic retreats that have
Lake Bafa is brackish and owing allegiance to Milas experienced rapid growth,
supports many species of fish. (see p197). In time, rivalries Didyma’s success has spilled over
Herakleia, also known as emerged between them, and to nearby towns. Charter groups
Herakleia-under-Latmos, Euromos (meaning “strong” in and tours flock to Altınkum and
occupies a dramatic setting Greek) turned out to be it can be very busy in summer.
at the lakeside. Its fortifications, politically fickle. Like many This was one of Turkey’s original
towers and well-preserved cities of ancient Caria, it opted camping venues. As it grew,
Temple of Athena are tangible to ally itself with Rome and pensions opened, and Turkish
vestiges of its former status. Rhodes, not Greece. families began to flock here for
A shrine to the shepherd-hero, sun and sand. There is not much
Endymion, can be visited near T Euromos else here – for anything more,
the lake. Visitors can also hire a 12 km (7 miles) NW of Milas.  from you will have to go to Yenihisar
local guide to show them the Selimiya to Milas. Open 8am–7pm (ancient Didyma). Few people
difficult-to-reach monasteries (5pm in winter). know how to enjoy themselves
high up the mountain and as much as Turks, and Altınkum
some of the prehistoric rock finds them in full holiday mode.
carvings in the area. a Altınkum
4 km (3 miles) S of Didyma. * 2,300.
Herakleia  via Priene and Miletus. s Labranda
10 km (6 miles) from Camiçi (by car
on track). 4 from Lake Bafa. 15 km (9 miles) N of Milas on
The protected sandy bay of
unsurfaced track (by car, taxi, or
Altınkum offers a relaxing spot on foot from Milas). Open 8:30am–
Environs to unwind, especially after a day 5:30pm Wed–Mon.
Euromos, located to the spent tramping around classical
southeast of Lake Bafa, wholly ruins. Most day trips to Priene, Getting to Labranda is certainly
deserves its reputation as Miletus and Didyma (see pp194–5) worth the effort for those who
having one of the best- end up here. In fact, locals persevere. This Carian sanctuary
preserved temples in Turkey. generally refer to the area nestles high on the mountains
above Milas, at an impressive
elevation of 610 m (2,000 ft),
giving good views of the
surrounding area. From early
times, it fell under the jurisdiction
of Milas (Mylasa). The remains
of the sacred way leading there
are one of the sights to note.
Despite being damaged by
several fires and earthquakes,
the remains of a stadium have
been uncovered by Swedish
archaeologists. Baths and a
fountain house (which may
The popular beach at Altınkum have been a water storage
THE AEGEAN 197
depot) date from about the darkness and sorcery. The gate of
1st century BC and the area still the temple precinct dates from
boasts an abundant source between 125 and 80 BC. The
of spring water. The most Temple of Hecate would have
interesting buildings are three stood here but the site has not
androns (banqueting halls), yielded major finds.
the second built by Mausolus
(see p198), who ruled from T Stratonikeia
nearby Milas. 20 km (12 miles) W of Milas. Own
The chamber tombs and transport.  on main Yatağan–Milas
sarcophagi, although pillaged, road. & Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily.
are unusual and reveal much T Lagina
about ancient burial practices. 15 km (9 miles) N of Yatağan.
The Gümüşkesen Mausoleum, a Carian Own transport essential.
monument in Milas Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily.
d Milas (Mylasa)
* 129,000. k 13 km (8 miles) SW of
justly famed for its carpets,
town, (0252) 523 01 01.  Intercity
characterized by soft neutral f Güllük
buses to Bodrum. n at airport, (0252) and beige tones.
* 5,600.  from Milas, 28 km
523 00 66. ( Tue. (17 miles) SE of Güllük, then 8 km
Environs (5 miles) to town.
The origins of Milas are uncertain Yatağan, site of a thermal
and the many theories are power station and known for its This is a lovely bay and harbour
largely unsubstantiated. What is environmental pollution, has with a genuine nautical
clear is that its most noteworthy little to offer, but two interesting atmosphere and lots of accom-
and prosperous period sights are located in the modation. The real reason for
was when it was capital area. Stratonikeia was coming to Güllük is to see the
of Caria and the founded in 295 BC. site of ancient Iasus, with its ela-
administrative seat It was apparently borate wall, 810 m (2,658 ft) long,
for the Persian satrap named after the wife built during the 5th century AD.
(subordinate ruler), of Seleucas I, king of The fortunes of Iasus were
Mausolus. Like most Syria. The ruins to be tied to fishing. Bronze Age
Carian cities, Milas seen – an agora finds from here bear detailed
was ruled in turn (marketplace), inscriptions that have shed
by the Persians, Local carpet in a rather unkempt new light on the lifestyles of
Alexander the Great, Milas Hellenistic theatre with the ancients. Legends of boys
the Romans and the seating for 10,000 and frolicking with dolphins also
Byzantines before finally falling the Temple of Sarapis – are in originated here.
under Ottoman control in 1425. the village of Eskihisar on the Almost opposite Güllük on
The remains of the ancient 330 road, south of the city. the main 330 road is the site
city lie within the present town The town’s small museum of Cindya. To the south is the
centre. The first thing you notice houses mainly Roman finds ancient Barbylia (modern Varvil
is the two-storey Gümüşkesen but includes a Mycenaean mug Bay), a town that grew wealthy
(silver money-bag) Mausoleum, from about 1000 BC. by trading in salt.
a structure of uncertain age. Lagina is located northwest
The lower floor is the actual of Yatağan and is best known for T Iasus
tomb, with an aperture in the its association with the cult of 4 by boat from Güllük to Kıyıkışlacık.
roof to provide sustenance Hecate, the Greek goddess of 18 km (11 miles) from main Milas road.
to the deceased. The town’s
most intact monument is the
handsome Baltılı (Axe) Gate.
As an administrative seat,
Milas issued regulatory decrees,
notably concerning money.
Inscriptions dating from the
3rd century AD list detailed
regulations that ban illegal
conversions from imperial
(Roman) to local money and
black-market money dealings.
Save some time for modern
Milas, which has some
charming timber houses with
latticework shutters. The town is The large ruined theatre at Stratonikeia
g Bodrum museum. His extravagant

costumes are in the limelight
Bodrum is the modern name for the ancient Dorian city along with record albums,
of Halicarnassus, location of the famous Mausoleum built radiograms and other musical
by Mausolus (375–353 BC), ruler of ancient Caria, who made and personal memorabilia.
Rooms and furnishings seem
the city his capital. The city walls, also built by Mausolus,
to be anticipating his arrival, for
were almost destroyed during Alexander the Great’s siege in example, the 1950s Cadillac
the 4th century BC. Herodotus, the father of written history, reposing on the front lawn.
was born here in 484 BC, as was Dionysius, the great rhetoric The museum is an inspiring
teacher of the 1st century BC. Modern Bodrum was the first memory to an outstanding
Turkish town to experience a tourist boom, its major sight Turkish cultural idol, who
died in 1996 during a live
being the 15th-century Castle of St Peter (see pp200–201), performance. Thousands
now a museum of nautical archaeology. attended his funeral.
 Bodrum Hamam
Cevat Şakir Cad, Fabrika Sok
(opposite the bus station).
Open 6am–midnight daily.
Tel (0252) 313 41 29. &
∑ bodrumhamami.com.tr.
Linked to the Çemberlitaş
Baths in Istanbul, the Bodrum
Hamam is housed in a lovely
old stone building. Service
is highly professional,
emphasizing cleanliness and
an authentic Turkish bath
experience. Masseurs are well
trained and you are bound
to feel like a “new penny”
when you exit. The owners
The busy harbour at Bodrum, attracting cruising yachts of all sizes claim a 500-year lineage.
The hamam runs a shuttle
E Zeki Müren Museum
Exploring Bodrum that will collect and return
Zeki Müren Sanat Müzesi
Bodrum is subtly divided by the you, suitably pampered.
Zeki Müren Cad 11. Tel (0252) 313
Castle of St Peter into a bustling, 19 39. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm
vehicle-free eastern sector with P Old Dockyard (Tersane)
daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. -
beaches and a quieter western and Arsenal Point
hub which borders the yacht Zeki Müren (1931–96) was one W of the marina entrance at the
harbour. Dolmuşes make of Turkey’s most accomplished end of Neyzen Tevfik Cad.
transport easy. Those marked and beloved singers and Open dawn to dusk. &
“Şehir İçi” (inner city) stop at all composers, with a career that The ancient dockyard on
major points. Boat trips to spanned 45 years. He was fondly the end of Arsenal Point is
nearby beaches are also known as “The Sun of Art” and, part of the effort to restore
available from the harbour. although considered the Turkish Bodrum’s walls. Its position,
Liberace, only the glitzy attire opposite the Castle of St Peter,
Halikarnas Club was comparable. Müren was a overlooks the main harbour.
Cumhuriyet Cad, No 178. professional musician and actor, The dockyard was built in
Open Apr–Sep. Tel (0252) 316 80 00. and his unpretentious home is the 18th century, when the
∑ halikarnas.com.tr preserved as a delightful Ottoman sultans made
Located at the water’s edge with an attempt to revive the
a view of the Castle of St Peter, empire’s naval strength.
open-air Halikarnas is one of the Attractions include a
most famous clubs in Turkey cistern, an Ottoman Tower
and an emblem of hedonistic on the west side of the
nightlife. With a capacity harbour, a graveyard,
of 5,000, Halikarnas offers a fortification to protect
spectacular laser light show the shipyard and a grand
and the best DJs. The open-air tomb built in 1729 to
cabaret, revue and musical acts commemorate Cafer Paşa,
feature top performers. Smart who was a naval hero
dress is required. The famous open-air Halikarnas club and prominent city patron.
BODRUM 199
many of the stones to construct VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

the Castle of St Peter.
As you enter, don’t miss Practical Information
the authentic reconstruction * 140,000. n Barış Meydanı,
models to the left. (0252) 316 10 91. ( Tue (clothes),
Thu & Fri (food & produce).
T Ancient Theatre _ Bodrum Yacht Week (3rd week
Kıbrıs Şehitler Cad (N of the in Oct); Bodrum International
Mausoleum). Open dawn to dusk. Ballet Festival (2nd half of Aug).
∑ bodrum-info.org
The scant remains of the great Mausoleum Little remains of the ancient
city of Halicarnassus, but the Transport
T Mausoleum theatre on the south slopes k Milas, (0252) 536 65 65. @
Turgut Reis Cad (corner of Hamam of the Göktepe district is one Cevat Şakir Cad, (0252) 316 26 37.
Sok). Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm Tue– of the more intact sites.
Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & Excavations began here in 1973
The colossal Mausoleum of and restoration still goes on. more for gladiatorial fights than
Halicarnassus was one of the Dating from the 4th century BC, for theatrical performances.
Seven Wonders of the Ancient the theatre consists of a stage The unusual balustrades in the
World. Named for Mausolus, building, an orchestra and rows orchestra may have been put
ruler of Caria, and intended as of seating. It was probably used there to protect spectators.
his tomb, work on the structure
began in 355 BC and was T Myndos Gate
completed by his widow, Cafer Paşa Cad. Open dawn to dusk.
Artemisia, the only woman The Myndos Gate was the
to rule Caria. It measured 41 m western exit from ancient
(134 ft) in height, with a podium, Halicarnassus and originally
a colonnade of 36 columns and featured two monumental
a pyramid, resplendently topped towers made of andesite blocks.
by a horse-drawn chariot statue. The gate and most of the city
The tomb stood for about walls were demolished by
1,500 years but had fallen into Alexander the Great and his
ruin by 1402, when the Knights The Myndos Gate, the western portal of the army in 334 BC. The structure
of St John arrived and used city in ancient times was restored in 1998.
Bodrum City Centre

1 Halikarnas Club 5 Old Dockyard and Arsenal Point 0 metres 200
2 Zeki Müren Museum 6 Mausoleum 0 yards 200
3 Bodrum Hamam 7 Ancient Theatre
4 Castle of St Peter
(see pp200–1)
R CAD (RING
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ŞE
IS
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Bodrum K
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Peninsula Ancient
D
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TÜ RKKUYU SU CAD
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Myndos
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M EN E K V E S O K Terminal
TEPECİK
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CA Hamam
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Marina Hamam
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Old Dockyard
MEYD
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KUMBAHÇE
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Halikarnas Museum
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Castle of St Peter
Bodrum’s most distinctive landmark is its castle, begun in
1406 by the Knights of St John (see p231). Its five towers
represented the languages of its formidable inhabitants.
When Süleyman the Magnificent conquered Rhodes in 1523,
both Bodrum and Rhodes came under Ottoman rule and
the knights left for Malta. Neglected for centuries, the castle
became a prison in 1895 and was damaged by shells from a German Tower
French warship during World War I. In the early 1960s, it was This tower is on
the walkway around
used to store artifacts found by local sponge divers. This led
the battlements.
to a fruitful Turkish-American partnership to restore the
castle and put on display the spectacular undersea treasures
found around Turkey. The innovative reconstructions of
ancient shipwrecks and their cargoes have brought the
museum international acclaim.
. Glass Shipwreck Hall

A steel frame supports the original
timbers of a Fatimid-Byzantine ship
thought to have sunk in 1025. The glass
shards and ingots, among other finds,
make this a time capsule of the era.
KEY
1 The Commander’s Tower forms

the inner entrance to the castle and
details some World War I history.
2 Castle moat
3 Land-facing battlements
4 The Glass Hall displays
Mycenaean beads and Damascus
glass, including some items
dating from the 15th century BC.
Outer
Syrian glass ingots, used in the entrance
production of glass items, date
from the 14th century BC.
5 Spanish (or Snake) Tower
6 Gatineau Tower
7 French Tower
8 Italian Tower
9 Carian Princess Hall . Amphora Exhibit
Earthenware jars and pots were
0 5th-century BC shipwreck
used to transport oil, wine and
q Chapel and eastern dry foods in ancient times.
Roman shipwreck Pointed bases allowed for
upright storage in layers.
BODRUM 201
Bodrum harbour. Tel (0252) 316
25 16. ∑ bodrum-museum.
com. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily.
Allow at least 2–3 hours.
Closed Mon (also Sat & Sun for
Glass Shipwreck Hall and Carian
Princess Hall). & several exhibits
View of the Castle Across the Harbour charge an additional entry fee.
Medieval engineers ensured that the castle -=
was virtually immune to attack. It even had
secure water supplies.
English Tower
Also known as the Lion
Tower, it was one of
England’s first foreign
projects funded by taxpayers.
. Late Bronze Age Shipwrecks

Ancient nautical life and trade are captured
in this life-size replica of a ship that sank
off Kaş (see p218) in the 14th century BC.
Diving for Treasure

Many underwater treasures were
located accidentally by sponge
divers who risked their health and
endurance working at depths of
40–50 m (131–164 ft). Some of
the museum’s priceless displays
are the result of more than 20,000
dives and painstaking scientific
research by experts and restorers.
The partnership between the
museum and the Institute of
Nautical Archaeology has made
Bodrum a showpiece of historical
Diver recovering amphorae from the floor treasures beautifully preserved
of the Mediterranean in their last port of call.
202 TURKEY AREA BY AREA
h Bodrum Peninsula Tour

The Bodrum Peninsula was originally peopled by
the Lelegians, migrants from mainland Greece who
maintained historic ties to the Carians. There were
eight Lelegian cities, dating from as early as the
4th or 5th century BC. Myndos was the most
6 Yalıkavak
prominent, but Pedasa offers the most to see.
Formerly an important sponge-
Today, the Bodrum Peninsula is renowned as fishing port, Yalıkavak is an ideal
a holiday paradise. Its secluded bays are ideal for spot for a meal. Local delicacies
yachting, watersports and getting away from it all. include sea beans and stuffed
The windmills to be seen on the hills were once marrow flowers.
used to grind grain. The terrain varies from lush
coniferous forests to rocky cliffs and sandy coasts.
The coastline claimed many ancient ships and
some of their treasures are displayed in Bodrum’s Bahçe
Castle of St Peter (see pp200–201).
J
Aegean
Sea
Yakaköy
5 Gümüşlük (Myndos)
Gümüşlük occupies the site of ancient
Myndos, founded by King Mausolus Gürece
(see pp198–9) in about 350 BC. The
J
remains of a sunken city lie offshore.
Akçaalam
Bağla
Cifit Castle
Akyarlar
Bağla
Bay
4 Kadıkalesi
The town takes its name from kadı
(Arabic for “judge”), after a former 3 Turgut Reis
resident. The old Greek church (now The town is named
awaiting restoration) on the hill is after a famous
the most intact Greek building in the Ottoman admiral and
area. Tangerine groves are a beautiful naval hero. The rich
sight, either in blossom or bearing alluvial soil is perfect
fruit, and there are superb views of for growing figs, which
the nearby islets. abound in this area.

THE AEGEAN 203
7 Göl Türkbükü
Key Two neighbouring towns,
Tour route
Gölköy and Türkbükü,
amalgamated their names
Other road in 1999. Watersports are
a speciality here. The area
is a hideaway for celebrities.
Küçük Tavşan
Island
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 2.5
J
Gölköy
Yulk
Gölköy
Torba
J
Mustafa
Pasa
Tower 1 Pedasa
Bodrum Though difficult to reach,
Pedasa is worth the
Gümbet journey. The ruins cover
about 2.5 sq km (1 sq mile),
and show a typical Lelegian
town. Extensive research
and restoration is being
done on the site, which
includes the remains of a
citadel, main gate, rampart
walls and castle keep.
Iç Island
Karaada Island
Tips for Drivers

Tour length: 100–120 km
(63–75 miles), with paved roads
2 Ortakent and two-way traffic most of the
This inland village way. The tour can be done by
boasts the imposing dolmuş, but it is then more
17th-century Mustafa Paşa difficult to see the ancient sites.
Tower, a rare example of n Turgut Reis, (0252) 382 39 33.
local architecture. It is one Turgut Reis is the only major
of the easiest sights to town, with a number of petrol
reach on the peninsula, stations and amenities.
and has abundant water When to go: Any time of year.
and lovely orchards.
j Marmaris watching. Some of the bars

have been nicely done up and,
Like most of the resorts along the Aegean coast, it is difficult decibels aside, this is not an
to envisage Marmaris as the quaint fishing village it used unattractive area. There are
to be. The stretch of beach, now lined with hotels, extended also a number of hotels and
pensions in the area, but
to the main street until the 1990s. Marmaris was extensively visitors in search of rest and
damaged by an earthquake in 1957, which destroyed most relaxation would do better to
of the old town. Today the rebuilt (and greatly expanded) look elsewhere.
town is a top holiday destination.
Ancient inscriptions indicate that Marmaris was once the
Dorian city of Physcus, attached to the city of Lindos and
part of the island state of Rhodes. Süleyman the Magnificent
(see p60) assembled a mighty fleet here in 1522 to prepare
for his conquest of Rhodes, at which time he regained
possession of the Datça Peninsula (see pp206–7) and had
Marmaris castle rebuilt.
Exploring Marmaris Among several yacht brokerage

Few places can compete with firms here, Gino Marine will
Marmaris’ exclusive setting in arrange luxury charter cruises for
a sheltered bay rimmed with a view of Marmaris from the water.
oleanders, liquidambar trees There is berthing for over 750
and pine forests. All major yachts up to 40 m- (130 ft-) long.
attractions are located within The Netsel call sign on VHF
a few metres of the seafront channel 06 is “Port Marmaris”. Restored Greek houses in the Old Quarter
and can be reached on foot. Marmaris is a safe anchorage, near the harbour
The harbour and quay extend with no underwater currents,
along a beach walkway that sandbanks or rocks, and can P Greek Revival Houses
runs the length of the town. be approached night and day in Old Quarter
in most weather conditions. Tepe Mahallesi.
Netsel Marina The Old Quarter around the
Tel (0252) 412 27 08 and 412 14 39. Gino Marine Castle is by far the most
∑ netselmarina.com Tel (0252) 412 06 76. charming part of Marmaris.
Turkey’s largest and most ∑ ginogroup.com Many houses that were either
luxurious marina has it all – abandoned or derelict have
parking, top-class restaurants, Bar Street been restored to their former
entertainment, bars, excellent Hacı Mustafa Sokağı. glory. Most belong to
shops and plenty of service Most tourist towns have their professional people who
facilities such as banks, ATMs bars and pubs concentrated seem to be accustomed to
and travel agents. All major on a couple of streets. Those in strangers peeking into a shady
currencies and credit cards Marmaris occupy much of Hacı courtyard or admiring a
are accepted for mooring, Mustafa Sokağı. Despite the handsome brass knocker.
refuelling and other noise, it is always worth strolling Karaca Restaurant, just outside
marina services. along the street and people the entrance to the Castle,
has a well-preserved interior.
From the top terrace of the
restaurant, you will get a
wonderful view of the town
and its numerous delightful
“barbecue” chimneys. See if
you can spot the one and
only remaining original Greek
chimney from here. As you
wander the cool and shady
lanes above the bustle of the
harbour, you could find yourself
wishing that some of Turkey’s
other coastal resorts had
retained the same quaint
neighbourhood appeal as
Netsel Marina, offering a complete service to touring yachts this corner of Marmaris.
THE AEGEAN 205
* 85,000. n iskele Meydanı
(central harbour), (0252) 412 10
35. ( Thu. _ Yacht Race Week
(Oct/Nov every year).
Transport
g from Rhodes. k Dalaman,
120 km (75 miles) E of town,
(0252) 792 52 91. @ NE of town
centre on Muğla road.
By the end of October the last

of the honey and fresh summer
produce will have been sold.
The Castle, incorporating a nautical museum
Environs
E Castle and Museum ( Bazaar A number of large holiday
Tel (0252) 412 14 59. Open Apr–Oct: Entrance from Kordon Caddesi and villages are located in Içmeler,
8am–6:30pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am– the street beside the tourist office. about 6 km (4 miles) around
5pm daily. & You may find a unique the bay from Marmaris.
The original castle was rebuilt item among the tourist Transport to and from
by Süleyman the Magnificent bric-a-brac offered Marmaris is easy,
in 1522 after his successful up for sale in the as dolmuşes
campaign against Rhodes. bazaar, among make the trip
Today, the restored structure the leather goods, on a regular
is a museum housing a small jewellery, herbs, basis. İçmeler
collection of nautical items. spices and teas. A Marmaris honey lacks the quaint
There are also inscriptions and delicious local speciality atmosphere of an
sculptures displayed in the court- is Marmaris honey, which is old Turkish town, as do many
yard. More engaging for most produced along the scenic Datça parts of Marmaris, but visitors
visitors, however, will be the Peninsula (see pp206–7). Both (particularly families) often prefer
panoramic view of the harbour pine (çam) or flower (çiçek) honey the more up-to-date facilities
and old renovated Greek houses. are fragrant, thick and dark. and much cleaner beaches here.
Marmaris Town Centre

1 Netsel Marina
2 Bar Street
3 Greek Revival Houses in Old Quarter
MU
4 Castle and Museumi D

CA
ST
EL
5 Bazaar KEM
AF
AF A
Bus Terminal
MUS T
19
1km (0.5 mile)

A
M
AY
I
MU
S
SO
DATÇA
V E N E D İ K KAN A L K E N
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YENİYOL
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LU
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Abdi İpekci ATATÜRK TA

Park CAD US
L
MEYD
TÜ R K IM
A TA AC
KO
Atatürk
RD
IÇMELER Bazaar
Statue
O
N
C
A
Hamam
D
İSKELE Greek Revival

MEYD Netsel Marina
Houses
D
Castle & CA
S
O
Museum AR
RB
BA
0 metres 300 Harbour
0 yards 300

k Datça Peninsula Tour

The narrow finger of the Datça Peninsula,
pointing westward from Marmaris, lies at the
place where the Mediterranean and the Aegean
meet. Locals claim that the air is rich in oxygen,
thanks to the prevailing wind (meltem) and the
mixing of salinity levels and current patterns in
the sea.The route along the peninsula follows
narrow and twisting roads, affording glimpses
of the sea through pine-clad gullies. At the
western tip, about 35 km (21 miles) west of
Datça, lie the ruins of Knidos, one of the most 5 Knidos
This port was the site of a shrine of
prosperous port cities of antiquity. In its heyday
Aphrodite, dating from about 360 BC.
it was home to an eminent medical school. The The remains of a theatre, agora, houses
Carian Trail walking route circles the peninsula and a round temple are visible today.
and continues eastwards towards Bozburun.
kova
f Gö
lf o
Gu
Murdalabük
Reşadiye
J
Yaziköy Eski Datça

J Çeşmeköy lf
a Gu
Datç
Sömbeki
island
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 2.5
4 Yazıköy
The western half of the peninsula
consists of rugged, pine-clad mountains 3 Palamut Bükü
dotted with olive and almond groves. This bay can also be reached by boat from Datça, and
The village of Yazıköy, at the end of the offers a long, tranquil pebble beach lapped by brisk,
paved portion of the road, lies deep in clear water. Palamut Bükü is a good spot for lunch,
the olive-growing region. with several simple but good fish restaurants.
THE AEGEAN 207
6 Orhaniye/Keçibükü
On the way back to Marmaris, take the
Bozburun road to Orhaniye (turn right just
after Değirmenyanı), and continue on for about
7 km (4 miles) to Keçibükü. Lovely sea views
make the little town an idyllic place to stop.
Marmaris
1 Bençikz
This, the narrowest point
of the peninsula, is a mere
800 m (2,600 ft) wide.
Locals used to call it
Balıkaşıran (the place
J
where the fish pass over).

Kamerye
Koca Island
Island
Bozburun
Key
Tour route
Other road
Tips for Drivers

Tour length: Day trip (or 2 hours’
drive) from Marmaris, west on
the main road, about 70 km
(43 miles) from Marmaris to
Datça, and 21 km (13 miles)
from Datça to Knidos. Sections
of the road to Knidos are in poor
condition – care is advised.
Boat tours run from Marmaris
to Knidos, with various stops.
When to go: Spring, when the
almond trees are in blossom.
Where to stay: There are plenty
of hotels and guesthouses
2 Datça available in Datça, Palamut Bükü
The small town of Datça has a busy yacht harbour, and and Eski Datça. Open Both sites
many shops and restaurants. A few kilometres inland is are open May–Oct.
the old town, Eski Datça, with many lovely stone houses.

MEDITERRANEAN
TURKEY
Turkey’s Mediterranean coast is synonymous with
turquoise seas, sun and blue skies, and has a wealth of
ancient remains. Originally colonized by the Greeks and
later ruled by the Romans, the region is littered with well-preserved
classical sites. However, Hittites, Seljuks, Ottomans, Armenians and even
the Crusaders have all left their distinctive imprints upon these shores.
The highlands of Lycia, between Side, with its temples of Apollo and
Fethiye and Antalya, were the seat of an Athena, is renowned for stunning sunsets.
impressive civilization whose distinctive The Cave of St Peter in Antakya and
stone tombs – both freestanding and St Paul’s well in Tarsus – birthplace of
cliff-hewn – still dot the landscape. the Apostle – are reminders of the role
At ruined cities such as Pınara, Myra of Christianity in fostering the area’s
and Xanthos, it is possible to glimpse cultural and religious diversity.
the achievements and scale of The short French protectorate era
Lycian civilization. (1918–39) in the Hatay, in the far
The city of Antalya, an important southeast, left a European colonial legacy
gateway to the Mediterranean region, in urban planning and local architecture.
boasts a spectacular clifftop setting and This corner of the Mediterranean region
quaint walled quarter. It is also a good contains the multicultural cities of
base for visits to the romantic mountain- İskenderun and Antakya (ancient Antioch
top ruins of the Pisidian capital of on the Orontes), where Arab-Syrian
Termessos and the monumental Roman influence is clearly visible. Antakya is
remains at Perge and Aspendos. Bustling also renowned for its Roman mosaics.
An ancient Lycian tomb rising above the placid waters of a coastal inlet
The beautiful lagoon at Ölü Deniz, near Fethiye, viewed from above
Exploring the Western Mediterranean Coast

Separated from the dry Anatolian plateau
by the Taurus Mountains, the Mediterranean
coast of Turkey is dominated by plunging
cliffs and headlands interspersed with fertile
alluvial floodplains, and fringed in places with
fine sandy beaches. Throughout the region,
the many civilizations that have shaped
Turkey left their mark on cities, harbours,
roads and rivers. To see many of the most
beautiful and interesting parts of this section
of the coast, venture along the Lycian Way
from Fethiye to Antalya, which is rated
Butterfly Valley, near Ölü Deniz
as one of the world’s top treks, or take
the “Blue Voyage” on a traditional Dinar
gület (wooden yacht). Denizli Burdur

Gölü Burdur
Serinhisar
Tavas Salda
Gölü
Yesilova ı Bucak
Değirmenalan ağ
Karamanlı D
Çakmak Tefenni ç ik
ri
yı
an
Ça
l a Darıveren Kizilkaya
Muğla ağ
n
a
D am tr
a
li al
K
e D
lg
Gö Gölhisar
Marmaris Korkuteli
KÖYCEĞİZ Söğüt
Karabayit TERMESSOS
CAUNOS Ortaca
ı
ar
DALYAN
rı
ğl
Dalaman Seki
la
GÖCEK Elmalı
a
A lak ir Cayı
D
ağ
Ak Kemer
D
Lydae FETHİYE
ey
KAYAKÖY Akcay
B
PINARA
ÖLÜ DENİZ PHASELİS
SAKLIKENT GORGE
Turunçova
Kumluca
Xanthos DEMRE
KALKAN FİNİKE
Kale
KAŞ
ÜÇAĞİZ, SİMENA &
KEKOVA ISLAND
Getting Around
Antalya’s Bayındır International Airport
has direct access to many European
destinations. From here, fast main roads
run east and west, parallel to the coast.
In many places, two-lane roads snake
around steep, rocky gorges. Views are
dramatic, but care is required. With only
a few exceptions, all the main sights and
attractions are easily accessible by both
Hiking in Saklıkent Gorge bus and dolmuş.
MEDITERRANEAN TURKEY 211
Sights at a Glance
1 Köyceğiz
2 Kaunos
3 Dalyan
4 Göcek
5 Fethiye
6 Kayaköy
7 Ölü Deniz
8 Saklıkent Gorge
9 Pınara
0 Kalkan
q Kaş
w Uçağız, Simena and
Kekova Island
e Demre (Myra)
r Finike
The Vespasian Monument, a Roman fountain in Side t Phaselis
y Antalya pp222–3
u Termessos
i Perge
o Selge
p Aspendos p225
a Side pp228–9
s Alanya
d Anamur and Anemurium
A k su Çayı
K o pr u
SELGE Beyşehir
Beşkonak
Çay
ı
Akseki
PERGE Hadım
ASPENDOS
Taşkent
Serik Gündoğmuş
ANTALYA
Manavgat Çay
SIDE Al
ara
Güzelbağ Sulugöl Tepesı
2579m
Antalya Ermenek
Körfezi Konaklı
ALANYA
Kazancı
Çamyolu
Kızıl Dağ
2257m
M EDI TE RRAN EAN
Gazipaşa
SEA
Uçarı Silifke
ANAMUR
& ANEMURIUM
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
Key
Dual carriageway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Summit
The picturesque yacht harbour in Kaleiçi, Antalya

Exploring the Eastern Mediterranean Coast

Apart from Adana and Mersin, the Mediterranean coastline
east of Alanya is much less populous (and visited) than the
western portion, but offers sights every bit as diverse. These
include the bird-watcher’s paradise of the Göksu Delta,
several Armenian and Crusader castles, and the important
Hittite site of Karatepe. The region also has a decidedly
Middle Eastern flavour: the further east you go, the more
lively and colourful the bazaars become and the foods tingle Ereğli
with stronger spices. This influence is most apparent in
the southeast, around İskenderun and Antakya. Turkey’s Aydos Da i
3480m
fourth largest city, Adana, is the main centre in the area.
It has a subtropical climate, which receives Konya r
rainfall mainly during the autumn and Taşkale Bol
ka
winter months. Karaman
Yu uk Da i
2454m Arslanköy
r
o sla
To r Güzeloluk
O r ta
Büyüke re Da i Kırobası
2055m
Güneyyurt
Ermenek Erdemli
Çamlıca Mut
Uzuncaburç
Kazanci Gö KIZKALESİ
k sü
Ne
hri
Gülnar SİLİFKE
Aydıncık
Anamur
Remnants of the Temple of Zeus, Uzuncaburç

near Silifke
Key
Motorway
Dual carriageway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Summit
The sea-castle set on an island off Kızkalesi (ancient Korykos)

Sights at a Glance
f Silifke z Hierapolis (Castabala)
g Kızkalesi x Yakacık
h Mersin (İçel) c İskenderun 0 kilometres 25
j Tarsus v Antakya pp238–9 0 miles 25
k Adana pp234–5 b Samandağ
l Karatepe p236
Nehri
Ulukışla Kozan Kesiksuyu
Barajı Barajı
Kale Da i
h an
1789m Kozan
Pozantı
Sey
Kadirli
rı Gaziantep
la Karaisalı
ag
Ç
İmamoğlu
KARATEPE
at
D
ki t
HIERAPOLIS
Suy u
Çamlıyayla
Seyhan Sağkaya
Barajı
Osmaniye
Meşelik Ceyhan İslahiye
Erzin
ı
ADANA
lar
Hanzali
ri
Dörtyol
eh
TARSUS
nN
YAKACIK
Ce y ha
MERSIN
skenderun Da Aktepe
Körfezi
Tuzla
ur
İSKENDERUN
Karataş
N
Madenli Kırıkhan
Konacık
ANTAKYA
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA SAMANDAĞ
Harbiye
Yayladağı
Cyprus
Getting Around
From Mersin to Gaziantep a motorway system
is in place, with the hub at Ceyhan, but this
is the only section of the Mediterranean coast
that is served by fast-track highways. Venturing
off the east–west axis of the coastal road, the
roads are picturesque and generally passable,
but winding and narrow. The Taurus mountain
range runs the length of the coast; respect
the mountains and remember that, in winter,
minor roads may be blocked by snow and
tyre chains are essential if you plan to drive
over the mountain passes. Mosaic in the Antakya Archaeological Museum
3 Dalyan
13 km (8 miles) from the main D400
road. * 8,250. k Dalaman, 25 km
(16 miles) E of Dalyan, (0252) 792 52
91. @ Ortaca, 13 km (8 miles) NE of
Dalyan.  entry road to Dalyan,
(0252) 284 24 58. n (0252) 284 42 35.
_ Caretta (turtle) Festival (end Aug–
early Sep). ( Sat.
This bustling resort takes its

name from the Dalyan River
(Dalyan Çayı), meaning “fishing
Lake Köyceğiz, a haven for waterbirds weir”, which flows through
the town. Although the town
1 Köyceğiz for which many citizens of is a fast-growing tourist centre,
Kaunos were slaughtered in fishing has long been the
30 km (19 miles) N of Dalyan.
* 8,600. Tel (0252) 262 47 03.
a final sally. The city was mainstay of the local economy.
re-established and Hellenized, Over the years, the town
Independent Menteşe clans especially by the Carian ruler, replaced ancient Kaunos as a
governed this area even after Mausolus (see pp198–9). Kaunos fishery when the latter’s harbour
the beginning of Ottoman welcomed Alexander the Great, became choked by silt. A weir
rule in 1424. By the late 1830s, but after his death came under built on the river, together with a
when the English archaeologist the rule of Rhodes. fish-processing plant, means that
Charles Fellows visited the area, It won independence you can enjoy the delicious local
the power of the family had from Rome, but after red roe caviar, which comes in
declined, however. The family supporting Mithridates a pot sealed with beeswax.
konak (manor house) has been against the Romans, Local fish is available at
restored. Another manor, once the city was punished waterside eateries.
the centre of a cotton estate by return to Rhodian The threatened
belonging to the khedive rule. Kaunos was loggerhead turtle
(viceroy) of Egypt, is now the known both for (see p215) has
Dalaman state farm. Many its figs and malarial Turtle Statue in Dalyan become a symbol
people in Köyceğiz village are mosquitoes. It was of Dalyan, drawing
distant descendants of African a major seaport until the increasing numbers of visitors
slaves brought here to work on harbour silted up. to the area. This came about
cotton plantations. A plantation At the site are defensive walls in 1986, when conservationists
of liquidambar orientalis, the tree built in the 4th century BC, managed to persuade civic
used to produce church incense, a theatre dating from the 2nd authorities to protect the
survives as a reminder of a once- century BC, a temple to Apollo turtles’ breeding ground from
important local industry. and a Roman bath. There is development. Since then,
The reed-fringed lake of a Doric temple and an local people have adopted the
Köyceğiz, 10 m (33 ft) deep agora (marketplace) with a loggerhead turtle as a motif
in places, is home to many nymphaeum (fountain) thought for the town. The Turtle Statue
waterbirds, including the to have been built to honour (Kaplumbağa Heykeli) on
rare Smyrna kingfisher. Emperor Vespasian. Cumhuriyet Meydanı is a
2 Kaunos
6 km (4 miles) from Dalyan. Tel (0252)
614 11 50. Open Apr–Oct: 8:30am–
7pm; Nov–Mar: 8:30am–5pm. &
The ancient city of Kaunos

bordered the kingdoms of Lycia
and Caria. Although a Carian
foundation, its culture shared
aspects of both states. The local
tombs are Lycian (see p219) in
style, but were in fact carved by
the Carians. Like Xanthos, capital
of Lycia, Kaunos resisted the
Persian general, Harpagus,
during the 6th century BC, The resort town of Dalyan, by the tranquil Dalyan River
tangible symbol of Dalyan’s

passion for conservation.
On the eastern bank of the
Dalyan River are two rows of
tombs cut into the cliffs.
Constructed for the citizens of
Kaunos, the tombs are mainly
of the house type and date from
the 4th century BC (see p219),
with Ionic columns and
triangular pediments. Most
have a small chamber with
three stone benches to
accommodate the dead. The
surviving inscriptions are mainly
in Latin, for the tombs were
reused during Roman times.
They are fenced off and must
be viewed from some distance
away. The rock tombs can be
reached by riverboat tours,
which depart from the Dalyan
Sea Co-operative.
Yachts moored in Göcek’s harbour
Environs
 Mud Baths
A short distance upriver from centuries been a refuge for
Çamurlu Kaplıcası
Dalyan (about 10 minutes by breeding loggerhead turtles
Tel (0252) 284 20 35.
boat) lie the mud baths of Ilıca. and is now a protected area.
Open daily. & -
With a constant temperature of The beach is closed to tourists
40°C (104°F), they are reputed to at night so that the young O Turtle Beach
be beneficial for rheumatism and turtles are not attracted by İztuzu Plajı
gynaecological disorders, and the bright lights, which would 12 km (7.5 miles) from town centre.
are certainly relaxing. Beyond lead them away from the 4 from Dalyan (40 min): depart
Ilıca, at Sultaniye Kaplıcaları, life-giving sea. before 10:30am, return between 3pm
and sunset. & for car park only.
on the shores of Lake Köyceğiz, As staying on the beach
a domed building lined with after dark is forbidden, you are
marble surrounds a natural pool unlikely to catch a glimpse of
where water wells up at 39–41°C the turtles, but you may see 4 Göcek
(102–106°F). Locals report that, blue crabs. The best way to get
23 km (14 miles) E of Dalaman.
after the Adana earthquake of to the beach is to take one of @ 1 km (0.5 mile) from town centre.
1998, the water at the bathhouse the frequent, co-operative-run n Club Marina (private yacht club),
gave off a plume of sulphur boat-taxis from the river bank (0252) 645 18 00; municipal yacht
gas and that the water changed near the centre of Dalyan. club, (0252) 645 19 38.
colour and appeared gassy. Alternatively, there are full-day
Turtle Beach (İztuzu Plajı), tours to the beach that take Near the pass of the same
which partly bars the mouth in both Kaunos and the mud name, and just south of the
of the Dalyan River, has for baths at Ilıca. main D400 road, Göcek is
now a major yachting centre.
Popularized by Prince Charles
Loggerhead Turtles and former Turkish president,
Turgut Özal, the town has
The loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) has become closely a remarkable concentration
associated with Dalyan, where soft sand and a tranquil south- of up-market facilities, including
facing beach provide an ideal nesting ground.
a luxury hotel and several
Loggerhead turtles can mate several times in a season. Between
striking waterside housing
May and September, the females arrive en masse to drag themselves
up onto the beaches where they themselves hatched. There they developments. The public
laboriously dig a marinas have berths for about
pit and lay their 350 boats, with a further 200
eggs above the berths available in a secluded
tide line. The sand private marina. Near the tip of
keeps the eggs at an the peninsula can be seen the
even temperature until ruins of the Roman town of
they are ready to hatch. Loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) Lydae, with two mausoleums
and a fort.
Kayaköy, once the prosperous Greek community of Levissi but abandoned in 1923
5 Fethiye ancient edifices, which included 6 Kayaköy

* 140,000. k Dalaman, 50 km
a temple of Apollo, but a Roman
10 km (6 miles) SW of Fethiye.
(31 miles) NW of town. @ 2 km theatre near the harbour  from Fethiye or Ölü Deniz.
(1 mile) E of town centre. g from survives. Cut into the cliffs Open Apr–Oct: 8:30am–6:30pm daily;
Rhodes (summer only). n İskele above the town’s market are Nov–Mar: 8:30am–5pm daily. &
Karşısı, No. 1, (0252) 614 15 27 and several Lycian temple tombs
612 19 75. ( Tue & Fri. (see p219), some from the Derelict Kayaköy, formerly known
4th century BC. Charles Texier, as Karmylassos, then Levissi,
A large market town and a 19th-century French was a thriving Greek town until
agricultural centre, Fethiye explorer, carved his initials on it was abandoned in the 1923
fringes a sheltered bay with a one of these tombs. exchange of populations (see
large harbour, making it a good Fethiye Museum displays p62). About 400 roofless houses
place for scuba diving and boat- artifacts from the half-flooded stand on the hillside overlooking
ing. In addition to having many ruins of Letoön (see p218), a fertile plain. The Orthodox
upscale holiday resorts, Fethiye including stelae, which church of Panayia Pyrgiotissa has
has a splendid farmers’ market scholars used in their efforts to been restored and is the main
every Friday that attracts crowds decode the Lycian language. focus of movement for peace
of locals as well as visitors. and international reconciliation.
Modern Fethiye stands on E Fethiye Museum Now a UNESCO World
the ruins of the Lycian city of Fethiye Müzesi Heritage Site, Kayaköy and its
Telmessus. Earthquakes in 1856 Off Atatürk Cad. Tel (0252) 614 11 50. ruins have been preserved as
and 1957 levelled most of the Open 8:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. & an historic settlement. The town
inspired the novel Birds Without
Wings, which focuses on the
rise of Turkish patriotism
after the disintegration of
the Ottoman Empire.
7 Ölü Deniz
20 km (12 miles) S of Fethiye.
* 1,200.  from Fethiye.
n Tourism Co-operative, (0252) 617
04 38, (0252) 617 01 45.
Made famous in the 1970s by

visitors from Britain, the inviting
beach and lagoon at Ölü Deniz
(which means “Dead Sea” –
because of the calm water) now
Lycian tombs cut into the cliffs above Fethiye adorn many posters promoting
Turkish travel. The land behind

the restaurant-fringed beach is
lined with hotels, pensions and
camp sites. The lagoon itself is
part of a national park, open
dawn to dusk, with a small entry
fee. The adjoining mountain,
Baba Dağı, is the jump-off point
for paragliders. Ölü Deniz also
marks the start of the Lycian
Way, Turkey’s first long-distance
walking route, which ends just
short of Antalya.
8 Saklıkent Gorge
30 km (18 miles) E of Fethiye.  from
Fethiye and then on foot. & summer
only. 8 0 } Tlos: Open Apr–Oct:
9am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm
daily. &
Saklıkent Gorge cuts into the

rugged flank of the 3,016-m The beautiful lagoon and beach at Ölü Deniz
(9,895-ft) Gömbe Akdağı, and
delivers a rushing stream of pure that tumble down the walls. Tlos. Built on a hill, with a
limestone-filtered water. From If you enter by road and footpath, commanding view over the
the restaurants at the base of the along the flank of Akdağı, there valley of the Eşen River (Eşen
gorge, which specialize in local is quite a steep descent, but this Çayı) – known in ancient times as
trout, you can walk for a few brings you to the trout farms. At the Xanthos – the main Lycian/
hundred metres into the gorge Saklıkent, 7 km (4.5 miles) from the Roman remains consist of tombs
on platforms built over the main D400 road, consider a meal at hewn from rock, as well as a
torrent. To walk further up one of the trout restaurants, which stadium, gymnasium and
the canyon, you need to join a have low tables placed over the palaestra, and baths. In Byzantine
guided walk, led by one of the water. Enjoy the cool air before times, Tlos was a bishopric, and
guides offering their services at you return to sea level – when the the churches at the site were
the entrance. Bougainville Travel temperature is 40°C (104°F) at most probably former temples.
of Kaş (see p375) organizes the coast, Saklıkent is refreshing. The acropolis was used until the
abseiling trips into the gorge. Also in the area is the ruined 19th century, when it was
These involve scrambling over city of Tlos, one of the oldest the stronghold of a pirate known
rocks to cross the waterfalls and most important Lycian cities. as Kanlı Ali Ağa (Bloody Ali).
Hittite records from the 14th Agencies in Fethiye and Kaş
century BC refer to a settlement offer tours of both Saklıkent
called Tlawa, which was probably Gorge and Tlos.
Butterfly Valley
From Ölü Deniz, it is a short boat
ride to Butterfly Valley (Kelebek Vadisi),
a flat-bottomed valley enclosed by
towering cliffs. The valley was named for
the migratory Euplagia quadripunctaria,
Euplagia
commonly known as the Jersey Tiger, a
spectacular red, black and white tiger moth quadripunctaria
that colonizes the valley by the thousand
during the summer. Other species are present year-round, with
some unique to the area. A 20-minute trek leads to a waterfall from
the mill stream at Faralya, which cascades into the valley, providing
damp conditions for the butterflies and supporting a variety of
plants. No permanent buildings are allowed on or behind the
beach, but a wooden bar-restaurant supplies beer and food to those
wishing to camp. Alternative access is by steep path from Faralya,
the village perched 600 m (1,968 ft) above, but this route is not
Catwalk built over the water in recommended since the path is dangerous.
Saklıkent Gorge
q Kaş
* 8,500. k Dalaman, 155 km
(96 miles) NW of town, or Bayındır Intl
Airport (Antalya), (0242) 330 36 00,
210 km (130 miles) NE of town.
@ Atatürk Cad. n 5 Cumhuriyet
Meydanı, (0242) 836 12 38. ( Fri.
_ Kaş/Lycia Festival (Sep).
Kaş was built adjoining a long,

narrow peninsula, over the
ancient port city of Antiphellos
Tombs cut into the rock at Pınara (port of Phellos), and was noted
for its cork oaks. In 1839, it was
9 Pınara 0 Kalkan so tiny and impoverished that
50 km (31 miles) E of Fethiye. * 6,000. @ at junction with main the English archaeologist Charles
Open 8:30am–dusk daily. & coast road. ( Thu. Fellows (who excavated the
nearby Lycian site of Xanthos)
One of the most important The village of Kalkan has been had to cross to the island of
cities of ancient Lycia, Pınara, permanently inhabited only Castellorizo to buy chickens
whose name means “round”, is since the eradication of to eat. Today, the situation is
situated on and around a huge malaria-bearing mosquitoes reversed: the islanders buy
circular plug of rock above the in the 1950s. In earlier times, their chickens at Kaş market on
village of Minare, some 5 km the local people avoided Fridays. The harbours are filled
(3 miles) west of the main D400 the pests by migrating with scuba-diving boats
road. The entrance is about 3 km in summer to the yayla and yachts making
(2 miles) along an unpaved (summer pasture) of trips to the Blue Cave
track that is passable by car. Bezirgan, above the and the sunken city
The rock face is honey- village. The core of stone, at Kekova (see p220),
combed with tombs, mainly Greek-style houses built with hotels and
square holes, which must have around the harbour is pensions along the
been sealed after use. The today surrounded by waterfront. Uzun Çarşı,
acropolis is approached by tiered ranks of modern the shopping street,
steps carved into the rock. villas on the hills. Good has many unusual and
A well-preserved theatre is cut accommodation and “Hand of Fatma” door original handicraft
into the hillside below, with a choice of restaurants knocker, Kaş and antique shops.
baths nearby. The agora make it an ideal base for A 5th-century-BC
(marketplace) lies just above the ancient Lycian cities of Lycian sarcophagus is at the
the ticket office. Xanthos, Letoön and Patara. top of the street.
Xanthos (now Kınık), the The tourism information office
ancient capital of the Lycian in the main square can provide
League (see p219), is 30 minutes information on the annual
by bus west of Kalkan, just Kaş/Lycia Festival, which makes
before the bridge spanning the good use of the tiny Hellenistic
Eşen River. The site is extensive theatre located on the peninsula
and spectacular, and includes road just west of the town.
superb examples of Lycian
tombs. A bilingual Greek-Lycian
pillar found at the site helped
researchers to decipher the
Lycian language.
Letoön, site of the temples
of Leto, Artemis and Apollo,
was a cult centre favoured by
Alexander the Great. Letoön
and Xanthos are both UNESCO
World Heritage Sites and reflect
the way Hellenistic and Lycian
cultures influenced each other.
Patara was once the major
port of the Lycian League.
Damaged by severe earth-
Visitors strolling through the picturesque quakes in AD 141 and AD 240, Fishing boats and touring yachts in the
streets of Kalkan its harbour silted up. harbour at Kaş
Lycian Tombs
Ancient Lycia, a federation of 19 independent cities, lay in the mountainous area
between modern Fethiye and Antalya. Burials must have had an important role in
the beliefs of the Lycians, for they cut hundreds of tombs into cliff faces and crags that
can be seen throughout the area. They were probably copies of domestic architecture,
intended as houses for the dead. Most have carved doors, beam ends, pitched roofs
and prominent lintels – typical of construction in wood. During the 4th century BC,
the rulers of Xanthos (modern Kınık) produced some of the most remarkable tombs,
combining Greek and Persian styles. One of the most famous of these, the Nereid
Monument, is now in the British Museum in London.
The doorway of a
house tomb, often
featured a sliding slab.
The house tomb of one to three

storeys, shown here at Tlos, was House tombs at Myra, near Demre, feature richly carved
carved into solid rock. A sliding façades. The elaborate reliefs on some of the tombs still bear
slab door opened into an inner traces of paint applied by the original builders.
chamber. Some tombs had
exterior porticoes with carvings.
Prominent
“Beam ends” lid ridge
Rock cut away to
used to open
make a roof space
the lid of the
sarcophagus
Sarcophagus
placed atop the
pillar base
Stepped
base
The freestanding temple tomb had

a temple façade and a portico, from
which a door led to a grave chamber
with benches for the dead.
Partly hollow base topped
by a stepped lid
Sarcophagus tombs had a stepped
base, a lower grave chamber (called
a hyposorion), a flat plate for the
Pillar tombs (on a stepped base coffin and a lid. The pitched,
or built directly on rock) are the rounded lid symbolized a house
oldest Lycian tombs. These are roof, and had a prominent ridge.
found only at Xanthos, the chief From 500 BC to AD 300, elaborate
city of Lycia, and Apollonia. This “saddlebacked” sarcophagus
example is from Xanthos. tombs were produced.
Varnished charter vessels and quaint fishing boats share the little harbour at Üçağız
w Üçağız, Simena of Aperlae and the village of Kale St Nicholas legends originated
and Kekova Island (ancient Simena) nearby, where in Mediterranean Patara (his
a castle built in around 1440 sur- birthplace), but the Church of
38 km (24 miles) E of Kaş. * 2,800.
rounds a tiny theatre cut into the St Nicholas is the most charming
4 from Demre or Kaş.
rock. A pleasant stroll along the reason to linger in Demre.
The picturesque waterfront coast via the marked Lycian Way This petite Byzantine church
village of Üçağız (“Three leads to its rarely visited twin. is spiritually and architecturally
Mouths”) is a 19 km (12 mile) Above Demre, an asphalt road heavenly and some long-
drive south of the D400, just provides a short-cut to Üçağız. concealed frescoes are being
east of Kaş. Dolmuşes will drop Daily boat tours call in to the brushed back into life.
you at the main road, but no pretty bay enclosed by Kekova The ancient city of Myra and
scheduled transport leads Island (Kekova Adası). the port of Andriake, 3 km
directly to the village. (2 miles) southwest of Demre,
Built on the site of (and using date from around the 5th
stones from) the Lycian town of e Demre (Myra) century BC, and grew rich on
Teimiussa, houses, restaurants * 19,200. @ 100 m (100 yards) from coastal trade, supplying incense
and pensions front a sheltered main square. R to Egypt and Constantinople.
bay with three openings to the The most popular parts of
sea. There are some signs of The small market town of Demre Myra are the theatre and two
subsidence, probably as a result would have little appeal to visitors cliffs carved with spectacular
of an earthquake that took place were it not for its claims to be house tombs. When Charles
in about AD 530. Submerged home to the original Santa Claus, Fellows visited the site in 1840,
saddleback tombs (see p219) St Nicholas, and the proximity of the paint on the tombs was
can be seen at the Lycian site the superb ancient site of Myra. still visible and letters of the
inscriptions were picked out in
red and blue. The oldest part of
The Real Santa Claus Myra was on the acropolis hill,
Nicholas, the 4th-century Bishop of Myra, was with a 5th-century BC defensive
famed for his unfailing generosity and piety. He wall. Myra’s water supply ran in
was beatified, and legend established him as channels cut into the wall of
the patron of fishermen and children, and the the Demre gorge and the frigid
town as a place of pilgrimage. (He is also the sulphur springs at Andriake
patron saint of bakers, brewers and brides.) provided therapeutic baths
There are two statues of St Nicholas (Noel and healing drinking waters.
Baba in Turkish) in Demre: one is a gift from
the Russian Orthodox Church, and is
mounted on a revolving pedestal.
The saint’s myrrh-impregnated bones
were buried on his church’s premises.
Although this church was destroyed by
the Arabs in 809, the bones survived
and were moved to Bari, Italy, in 1087.
The church at Demre was rebuilt by a
Russian prince in the 19th century.
Demre is also the headquarters of
Statue of St Nicholas in Demre the St Nicholas Foundation. Carved mask relief from the theatre
at Myra
r Finike t Phaselis
* 25,000. n Halk Kütüphane, 40 km (24 miles) SW of Antalya.
(0242) 855 39 92. @ off D400 Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
highway. ( Sat. Nov–Mar: 8:30am–5pm daily. & -
Finike is a market town located Decked with flowers in spring, the

at the foot of the Gülmez Dağları, ruined city of Phaselis is a popular
a long spur of the Taurus stopping place for cruise yachts.
Mountains, and on the banks The Lycian port city was sold to
of the Karasu (Black Water) River. Greek settlers from Rhodes by a
In ancient times, Finike was local shepherd in the 7th century
known as Phoenicus. The original Escaping natural gas burning near Olympos BC. They built an extensive town
harbour, once noted for its export with three harbours around
of the timber that was used permanently alight. The flame is an acropolis on a headland.
in building the Ottoman fleet, known as Yanartaş (burning The canny Phaselians, noted for
is now buried under silt, and stone). In ancient times, the fire their skill in trade and commerce,
a modern yacht harbour has was guided upwards to light a invited Alexander the Great to
replaced it. In Byzantine times, beacon to warn ships of impend- winter here in 333 BC, even
the surrounding mountains ing danger. There is also a presenting him with a golden
were a source of cedar of Byzantine church here, probably crown in return for valuable
Lebanon (used in shipbuilding), once a temple of Vulcan. protection. Phaselis became a
but the tree is rarely found in According to myth, this pirate stronghold before it was
these parts today. mountain is where the hero absorbed into the Roman
Finike has since prospered Bellerophon, mounted on the province of Lycia-Pamphylia in
through the export of citrus fruit winged horse, Pegasus, killed AD 43. It survived Arab raiding,
and other produce. Its fertile the three-headed Chimaera only to be eclipsed by Antalya in
orchards brim with orange and by pouring molten lead into Seljuk times.
lemon trees, and the town’s the monster’s mouth. Most of the ruins date from
logo is an orange. the Roman era. They include
Not much is known about T Olympos a theatre, two sets of baths,
the early history of Olympos, 11 km (7 miles) E of main D400 road. an agora, an aqueduct leading
although it was an influential  from café on D400, or taxi. } from Mount Olympos and
member of the Lycian League. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; a marble gateway erected
The site is reached by a narrow Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & in honour of Emperor Hadrian.
road through a gorge with a
seasonally dry river bed. The
ruined city occupies a charming
setting adjoining a 4 km-
(3 mile-) long beach. To the
south is an extensive necropolis,
including unique square tombs
with sliding doors. A theatre,
baths and landing stages also
occupy the south bank. The
northern side has an acropolis,
more tombs, a temple dating
from the time of Emperor Marcus
Aurelius and a Byzantine bath-
house. The whole site is starred
with anemones in spring;
kingfishers whirr over the stream
and ducks nest in the reeds.
Fronting the same beach as
Olympos, but reached from the
main road by a different valley,
low-key Çıralı boasts more than
100 pensions and hotels
nestling in the shade of citrus
orchards. Turtle-nesting beach
apart, the main point of interest
here is the Chimaera. Set at an
altitude of 300 m (984 ft), are
two outcrops of volcanic rock,
where escaping natural gas is The north harbour at Phaselis, with Mt Olympos in the background
y Antalya
Antalya’s population has increased to more than one million
since the tourism boom began in the late 1980s. Mountains,
beaches and the seaside setting are the obvious magnets,
and the city is now one of Turkey’s premier resort areas.
Antalya (ancient Attaleia) was founded by Attalus II, a king
of Pergamum, in 159 BC. The city prospered during the
Roman, Byzantine and Seljuk eras before coming under Roman marble sculpture from the Antalya
Ottoman rule in 1390. The most important remains are the Archaeological Museum
Roman city walls and imposing Hadrian’s Gate.
Bronze Age urn burials, silver
found in Phrygian tumulus
burials, relics of St Nicholas
(see p220) and a collection of
early Byzantine church silver.
There is also an ethnography
section. If your time in Antalya
is limited, save it for this –
one of the handful of Turkish
museums that is truly
outstanding. The Sarcophagi
Hall and Gallery of the Gods are
also recommended viewing.
Don’t miss the sarcophagus
of a dog called Stephanos.
Antalya’s Harbours
The attractive old harbour, showing remnants of the city walls Limanılar
Marina (Kaleiçi): Selsuk Mah. Tel (0242)
Exploring Antalya access it. Konyaaltı beach, a long 248 45 30. Harbour (Port Akdeniz):
Antalya’s broad, palm-lined shingle strip backed by cafés Büyük Lıman Mevkii. Tel (0242) 259
boulevards and interesting Old and hotels is easily reached from 13 80. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
Town (Kaleiçi) make it a pleasant the city centre on the nostalgic The picturesque Old Harbour in
place to explore. The beaches, tram. Get off at the last stop Kaleiçi is used mainly for gulet
parks, excellent shops and lively (Archaeological Museum) and (see p210) tours to Rat Island or
cultural scene make it a focal walk down the hill. Some 10 km the waterfalls at Lara. The water-
point of the Mediterranean coast. (6 miles) east of the city, and front is lined with restaurants
Antalya has one speciality not reached from the centre by and is a pleasant place to stroll.
found anywhere else in Turkey – bus, is sandy Lara Beach. Both The harbour has won an award
hibeş, a hot, spicy sesame- Konyaaltı and Lara beaches for its attractive setting, plan
paste dip. have sunloungers for hire. and use of resources. The
city’s main harbour is 10 km
Minicity Antalya E Antalya Archaeological (6 miles) west of the centre
Arapsu Mahallesi, Konyaaltı. Tel (0242) Museum and is used mainly by
229 45 45. Open 8am–7pm daily Konyaaltı Cad 1, Konyaaltı. commercial and private
(Nov–Apr: from 9am). & - = 7 Tel (0242) 238 56 88. yachts, as well as cruise
A Mediterranean theme Open 8am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. ships. It is also the site
pervades here, with diminutive & - = 8 with prior of Antalya’s fish market.
beaches and sailing boats as permission.
well as miniature replicas of The museum, perched on T Fluted Minaret
many of Turkey’s historic sights. the cliffs 2 km (1.25 miles) Yivli Minare
Replicas of the Gallipoli graves west of the city centre, is A 13th-century minaret
are particularly moving. the true jewel of Antalya. dating from the reign of
It houses a unique Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin
Antalya’s Beaches collection of Roman Keykubad (see p254), this
For visitors staying in the Old marble sculptures dating has become the symbol
Town of Kaleiçi, the most conven- from the 2nd century AD, of Antalya. The red bricks
ient beach is the small, pebbly many of them from nearby were once decorated
Mermerli beach, located at the Perge (see p224). The with turquoise tiles. The
foot of the cliffs just south of the statues are beautifully lit adjoining mosque is still
harbour. Owned by the Mermerli and superbly displayed. The Fluted used, and just above is
restaurant, a fee is charged to Displays also include Minaret the Fine Arts Gallery.
Hadrian’s Gate consists of three VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

arched gateways fronted by
four Corinthian columns. Practical Information
For years, the structure was * 1,130,000. n Cumhuriyet
encased in the Seljuk city wall Cad, (0242) 241 17 47.
and was uncovered only in _ Aspendos Festival (2nd week
the 1950s. Restoration work Jun–1st week Jul), Golden Orange
has been carried out and the Film Festival (1st or 2nd week Oct).
pavement between the arches Transport
stripped back to the Roman k JCF Airport, 12 km (8 miles) E
level, showing clearly the wheel of city, (0242) 330 36 00. @ 4 km
ruts cut into the stone. (2.5 miles) N of city centre, (0242)
331 12 50. v from Işiklar Cad to
T Truncated Minaret Konyaaltı Cad.  Doğu Garajı.
Hadrian’s Gate, with the deep wheel ruts Kesik Minare
clearly visible Hesapçı Sok.
The Truncated Minaret is the
E Kaleiçi Museum landmark decapitated tower
Kokatepe Sok 25, Kaleiçi. Tel (0242) next to the ruins of what has
243 42 74. Open 9am–noon & been, variously, a Greek temple,
1pm–6pm Tue–Thu. the Church of St Peter and a
This charming museum is mosque. The tower was badly
housed in two beautifully damaged by fire in 1851. Various
restored Ottoman mansions. architectural styles, especially
One contains rooms recreated on the capitals, give clues to its
as they would have been in past. You cannot go inside, as
the 19th century, with lifelike railings surround the site, but
mannequins. The other is a the exterior is fascinating. Tea garden beside a reflecting pool in
research library. A renovated Karaalioğlu Park
Greek Orthodox church houses a Y Karaalioğlu Park and
collection of Çannakale pottery. Hıdırlık Tower of Antalya, Mount Tahtalı and the
Located on the southeastern side distant Beydağlar Mountains.
T Hadrian’s Gate of the harbour, the park has a The circular Hıdırlık tower dates
Üçkapılar variety of mature exotic trees in from the 2nd century BC, and
Atatürk Cad. which wild ring-necked para- was probably a lighthouse in
Built to honour the visit of keets nest. It also has tea gardens Roman times. Locals linger here
Emperor Hadrian in AD 130, with fabulous views over the Gulf to watch the setting sun.
Antalya City Centre

1 Konyaaltı and Mermerli beaches 6 Hadrian’s Gate
Bus station
2 Archaeological Museum 7 Truncated Minaret 5 km (3 miles)
F EH
3 Old Harbour 8 Karaalioğlu Park RET
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4 Fluted Minaret AY
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5 Kaleiçi Museum BUL CA
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u Termessos
35 km (22 miles) NW of Antalya;
9 km (6 miles) off the main road.
Termessos was built by the

Solymians in a strategic position
on the shipping route to the
Aegean. The Greek historian
Arrian (around AD 95–180) said
of the location that “the two
cliffs make a sort of natural
gateway so that quite a small
force can, by holding the high
ground, prevent an enemy from The remains of the Hellenistic Gate at Perge
getting through”. The city’s
formidable natural defences i Perge under-floor heating systems face
convinced Alexander the Great a colonnaded agora. A water
18 km (11 miles) NE of Antalya.
not to attempt to take the city channel leads from a second
during the 4th century BC. Nov–Mar: 8.30am–5.30pm daily. & fountain on the acropolis hill into
The main buildings visible a channel down the main street,
today are a theatre, the Located on the Kestros River which cooled the air in summer.
defensive walls below the (modern-day Aksu), Perge was Plancia Magna, the city’s benefac-
gymnasium, the gymnasium once a wealthy city. It declined in tress, was buried outside the
itself, the temples of Hadrian Byzantine times, and was walls; a marble statue of her is in
and Zeus, an odeon (for musical abandoned in the 7th century. Antalya Archaeological Museum.
performances), cisterns in the However, it still presents an
agora, the stoas (covered walks) impressive sight. The theatre
of Attalos and Osbaras, and the is one of the most impressive o Selge
temple of Artemis. A large remnants: its frieze of Neptune
92 km (57 miles) NE of Antalya.
necropolis extends upwards can be seen in the Archaeo-
Open daily. &
as far as a modern fire-watch logical Museum in Antalya
tower on the hill. You can walk (see p222). The huge stadium is The village now occupying the
from the gymnasium down largely intact. Much excavation site gives no idea of the former
to sea level along the old road, and reconstruction work importance of Selge. Founded
ending in a gorge. has been done here, with by Calchas of Argos (who also
Termessos lies in Güllük Dağ explanatory panels near most founded Perge) in the 5th century
National Park, which includes an major buildings. BC, it was the first Pisidian city to
area for breeding wild goats and A pair of Hellenistic towers mint coins. Coins from Selge
deer, and may be the last refuge marks the entry to the city. The were used until the 5th century
of the Anatolian lynx. The area is towers front a courtyard with a AD. The classical geographer
also known for its butterflies. fountain. On the left, baths with Strabo cites olives, wine and
medicinal plants as sources of
revenue. Selge seldom features
in classical histories, but we
know from the Greek historian
Polybius that, in 218 BC, when
Selge was at war with the city
of Pednelissos, it was able to
field an army of 20,000 men.
Selge was defeated in this war
and had to pay tribute to its
enemy. However, it regained
prosperity and independence
and flourished, especially in
the 2nd century AD.
Visible today are a theatre, a
stadium, a large temple to Zeus,
a smaller one to Artemis, and
a cistern. The site, with its spec-
tacular mountain surroundings
and cool air, is now part of the
The theatre at Termessos, with seating for more than 4,000 people Köprülü Çayı National Park.
p Aspendos
Aspendos, located on the Eurymedon River (now
the Köprülü River), was once the easternmost city of Practical Information
the kingdom of Pergamum (see pp180–81). In Roman 50 km (31 miles) E of Antalya.
times it became an important trading centre. Today,
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. Closed
its main attraction is a beautifully preserved Roman early closing (4pm) for festival
theatre, built around AD 162 by the architect Zeno. performances (on some days in
The structure is enclosed by a stage building that Jun–mid-Sep). & - in Belkis
village. 7 ground level only.
once had a timber canopy. The theatre hosts the
annual Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival (usually
mid-June–early July). Aspendos also has a remarkable
aqueduct, and numerous remains.
Arched Gallery
Running right round the top of
the theatre, the restored gallery
provided patrons with an all-
weather vantage point. . Theatre
The theatre, which can seat 12,000,
was maintained by the Seljuks, and
traces of 13th-century
paint still adorn the
stage building.
Granite
bedrock
Roof over
the stage
building
Dressing
rooms Covered
passageway
Forty rows
of marble
seats divided
into sections
by staircases
Public entrance,
used for festival
performances today
. Aqueduct
The aqueduct, built in
around AD 100 by
Stage Building the architect Tiberius
The stage building features Claudius Italicus,
carved niches intended to hold incorporated a
statues. Originally, the niches 1 km (0.5 mile)
were separated by columns. siphon system.
Lycian rock-cut tombs above Fethiye

a Side
The classical geographer Strabo tells us that Side (whose
name means pomegranate) was settled by Greek colonists
from Aeolia, near Smyrna (modern İzmir), in the 7th century
BC. In the 2nd century BC, Side became a centre for pirates,
who made large profits from slave trading. Under the Romans,
it remained an important slave market. Excavations have
shown that the city was burned by Arab raiders in the
7th century, but it revived under the Seljuks. During the
1920s, Side was settled by Muslims expelled from Crete in
The partially reconstructed Temple
the Greet–Turkish population exchange (see p62). of Apollo
T Temples of Apollo
and Athena
At sunset, the marble columns
and re-erected pediments of the
temples of Apollo and Athena
frame superb views of the Gulf of
Antalya. Around the temples is a
basilica, built later in a contrasting
rough aggregate stone. The
Medusa heads of the friezes date
from the 2nd century AD.
T Theatre
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & at
theatre, grants entrance to the whole
The tranquil harbour, cradled by the remains of ancient breakwaters site, reduction after 5pm.
Almost entirely freestanding,
Exploring Side 4 Harbour Side’s large theatre was built
The busy resort of Side is an ideal Side occupies a peninsula that on arches over Hellenistic
place to take in ancient ruins, terminates in a small harbour. foundations during the 2nd
beaches and shopping without The remains of moles built in century AD. The lower seats
venturing too far afield. It is a antiquity are visible in places are partially supported by the
haven for shoppers, with its offshore. From here, you can hillside, but the upper seats
leather, jewellery and souvenir take a luxurious boat trip up the rest entirely on huge arches.
stores and many bars and eater- Manavgat River (Melas in This was the largest theatre
ies in summer. Pedestrianization, ancient times), see a waterfall in Pamphylia, and could hold
the small pensions and quaint, and stop for some lunch 17,000 spectators. There are
family-run facilities have enabled at a trout restaurant. 29 rows of seats above and
the town to retain its “village”
charm. Its monuments lend
discipline and historic value to Golfing in Belek
the narrow streets. Between Side and Antalya lies the purpose-built golfing resort
of Belek. Here, there are fourteen 18-hole courses, all beautifully
landscaped through mature pine
forests and offering considerable
contrast, ranging from a links
course to one set amid lakes
and huge trees. The Belek
courses operate in close
partnership with excellent
five-star hotels and have golf
professionals who speak a
variety of languages. The
Mediterranean region’s mild
winter and early spring make
this the most attractive time
to visit. Several tournaments
Waterfall on the Manavgat River, upstream are held here each year. Typical landscaped golf course
from the town
dedicated to the Emperor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Vespasian. From here runs a
colonnaded street lined with Practical Information
plain granite columns and * 23,350. n Side Yolu
the remains of Roman shops Üzeri, Manavgat, (0242) 753 12 65.
leading to the main street. ( Sat.
A local tractor pulls an open Transport
bus, saving visitors the walk k Antalya, 70 km (43 miles) NE
from the bus station. of Side. @ on main coast road in
Manavgat, 2 km (1 mile) E of
E Museum in Roman main entrance.
The large Roman theatre, built on Bathhouse
Hellenistic foundations Tel (0242) 753 10 06.
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; and tiny carvings that include
29 below the main lateral aisle. Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & a house complete with dog
Changes to the structure of The museum occupies a peering around the door.
the building permitted the charming setting – the largest The garden features a cupola
orchestra pit to be flooded of Side’s baths – and includes with maze decoration and
in order to enact naval dramas. a number of superb marble many friezes.
The stage building had two sarcophagi, a trio of statues
storeys, decorated, as at Perge known as the Three Graces E Aqueduct, Nymphaeum
(see p224), with friezes of the and another statue showing and City Walls
story of Dionysus. These are Hercules holding the golden The Romans installed an
currently being displayed in apples of the Hesperides. There impressive water-supply system.
the nearby agora or museum are also elegant portrait heads Outside the main gate was
garden while restoration work a nymphaeum (ornamental
is carried out on them. fountain), which was fed by
a two-storey aqueduct running
E Vespasian Monument, on arches for 30 km (19 miles)
Arch and Colonnaded Street from the Melas (now the
The arched gateway that Manavgat) River. Clay pipes
marks the entrance to Side were used to distribute water
from its neighbour, Manavgat, to homes from the city cisterns.
blocks most vehicular traffic. Outside the massive Roman
Next to the arch is a fountain The Vespasian Monument, with a carved city walls are necropoli, with
adorned with carved basins, pediment and inscription examples of temple tombs.
Side Town Centre

1 Harbour ANTALYA
2 Temples of Apollo and Athena

SO
3 Theatre
RG
UN
YO
4 Vespasian Monument, LU
Arch and Colonnaded Street Bus

Station
5 Museum in Roman Bathhouse Western
Beach
6 Aqueduct, Nymphaeum Aqueduct,
Nymphaeum
and City Walls and City Walls
AD
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SI
Museum in Roman
Bathhouse
Vespasian
Monument
Agora Byzantine
Basilica
GA
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SO YA
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IS SO Theatre NS
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Antique AD
Baths SC Great
M BAR O
II
SO BAR Beach
K
Small
K
Beach
N SO
Temples of
Harbour Apollo and Athena
LA
Y 0 metres 200
CE
0 yards 200

collection of farming tools as well d Anamur and

as items from Pamphylian sites in Anemurium
the area. A Phoenician inscription
110 km (68 miles) SE of Alanya. @ on
from the 6th century BC shows
the coast road. n at the bus station,
the development of lettering
(0324) 814 35 29.
from its cuneiform origins.
Atatürk visited Alanya for a The town of Anamur is bisected
few days in 1935. The owner by the D400 coastal road, with
of the house where he stayed the town centre to the north
turned it into a museum. The and the harbour to the south.
ground floor has photographs There are good beaches and
and Atatürk memorabilia, and important turtle nesting sites
the upper floor displays the here. More nesting sites can be
furniture of a typical Alanya found west of Anamur at
house in Republican times. ancient Anemurium, located on
There are several caves a coastal headland – the
around the base of the cliffs, southernmost tip of Turkey.
The Red Tower, dominating the harbour including a phosphorus cave, Anemurim (“Place of the
at Alanya a pirate cave and a lovers’ cave. Winds”), first noted by the
The best known is the stalactite- classical geographer Strabo
s Alanya hung Damlataş Cave, said to (63 BC–AD 23), was founded in
* 110,000. @ 3 km (2 miles) W of provide relief from asthma. The the 1st century AD, and thrived
city centre. n Damlataş Cad 1 (near internal temperature registers under the Byzantines. It was
the cave), (0242) 513 12 40. ( Wed & a steady 23°C (73°F). Access is battered by an earthquake in
Fri. _ International Triathlon (Sep). from the western beach, behind around 580, and after the Arabs
∑ sunsearch.info the Damlataş restaurant. took Cyprus in 649, the vulnerable
city was abandoned. It was never
The promontory and castle of E Museum resettled, so many of the old
Alanya are visible for miles and Hilmi Balcı Cad, Damlataş Cad. Roman and Byzantine houses and
offer superb views of beaches Tel (0242) 513 12 28 and 513 71 16. tombs remain in good condition.
and mountains. Now a large Open 8:30am–noon & 1–5pm Tue–
modern resort, in Roman times Sun. & Environs
Alanya was called Coracesium,  Damlataş Cave On the coast road 2 km (1 mile)
and was a stronghold of the Damlataş Mağarası east of Anamur lies Mamure
pirates who menaced the grain Open 6–10am for spa patients & Castle. Built over a Byzantine fort,
fleets on their passage to Rome. 10am–7pm for the public. & it was occupied by the Crusaders.
After the defeat of the pirates Rebuilt by Alaeddin Keykubad I,
in 65 BC, Coracesium became Environs the castle was used by the Kara-
a thriving city. The Seljuk ruler, Near Ehmedek, a village where manoğlu dynasty and garrisoned
Alaeddin I Keykubad, made local women sell silk and lace by the Ottomans. Today, the
Alanya his winter residence handicrafts, is a bedesten fortress is often used as a film set.
and fortified it heavily. (trading hall) converted into
A double line of defensive a hotel, with high-arched rooms T Anemurim
walls mount the promontory to around a courtyard. There is a Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
enclose the Citadel (Kale), inside pool, a vaulted hall and cisterns
which is a Byzantine church. below. Nearby is the restored T Mamure Castle
Punctuated by towers and 16th-century Süleymaniye Mamure Kalesi. Open Apr–Oct:
gates, the walls are still in good Mosque and a 13th-century 9am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–
condition. It takes about an türbe (tomb). 5pm daily. &
hour to walk to the top, but
there is an hourly bus service.
The harbour is commanded by
the 35 m (115 ft) Red Tower
(Kızılkule), a hexagonal structure
built by Alaeddin Keykubad I in
1226 and now restored. The Red
Tower protected Alanya’s
strategic dockyard, or tersane,
which could accommodate five
ships under construction at once.
In Seljuk times, the plentiful local
forests provided ample timber for
shipbuilding and even for export.
The garden of the museum has a The large baths complex at Anemurium
The Crusades in Turkey

Mediterranean Turkey is closely associated (Antakya). The period reached its nadir with
with the impact of the Crusades – the the sack of Constantinople by a crusader
military campaigns mounted from the late army in 1204 (see p54). The military orders –
11th century onwards, in order to wrest the the Knights Templar, Hospitaller Knights of
Holy Land from Muslim control. St John and the Teutonic Order – were active
The crusader armies marched through all along the coast. The most prominent
Anatolia to reach the Holy Land, capturing symbol of their presence is the Castle of
cities such as Edessa (Şanlıurfa) and Antioch St Peter at Bodrum (see pp200–201).
The 36 towers are

Coastal Fortresses still intact.
Mamure Castle, near

Anamur, is one of the best- Crenellated
preserved crusader castles walls
on the southern coast of
Turkey. The Ottomans
expanded the castle
and used it until 1921.
The castle is
surrounded on three
sides by the sea.
Shallow moat Great Court
The Siege of Antioch 1095

Captured from the Seljuks
during the First Crusade after
a seven-month siege, Antioch
Death of Friedrich I
(Antakya) became the seat of
The Holy Roman Emperor
the Principality of Antioch,
drowned near Silifke in 1190.
one of the three main
Silifke itself was held by the
Crusader kingdoms. It fell to
Knights of St John in 1211–66.
the Mamelukes in 1284.
Insignia of the
Templar order
The Capture of Rhodes

After taking Rhodes in 1310, the Knights
of St John moved operations to Smyrna
(now İzmir) in 1344. When Smyrna was
lost to the Mongols, the knights moved
down the coast to Bodrum.
The Knights Templar Grand Master of the

The order was active in The Knights of St John Teutonic Knights
the Amanus Mountains The crests of English, The Teutonic Order held
and around Antioch French and German castles in Cilicia, in the
(Antakya). The knights crusaders are carved Crusader-aligned
safeguarded the route into the walls of the Kingdom of Lesser
into Syria. Castle of St Peter at Bodrum. Armenia (1198–1375).
the city was called Olba by

the Greeks and Diocaesarea
by the Romans.
Beside the road are several
temple tombs, complete with
sarcophagi. The centrepiece is
the Temple of Zeus, with about
30 massive peristyle columns.
However, the walls of the
cella (which would have
enclosed the statue of Zeus)
were removed when the
building was converted into a
church. Other sights include a
Greek theatre and two city
gates. Also worth exploring are
Corinthian columns of the Temple of Zeus Olbios at Uzuncaburç a Hellenistic tower, the
necropolis and a pyramid-
f Silifke 9 km (6 miles) to the north, roofed mausoleum. Orchards
* 105,000. @ İnönü Cad. n Göksu
is a monument that points to surround the ruins today.
Mahallesi, Gürten Bozbey Cad 6,
where the Holy Roman Emperor
Frederick Barbarossa drowned on T Uzuncaburç
(0324) 714 11 51. Closed weekends.
_ Folklore and Culture Festival (3rd 10 June 1190 while attempting Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm daily;
to ford the deep Göksu River Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm. & = 0
week in May).
during the Third Crusade.
Founded as Seleucia by one of Silifke Museum, 1 km
Alexander the Great’s generals, (0.5 mile) west of the town,
Silifke lies on an important route houses the Gülnür hoard, a
to Konya and the interior by superb collection of 5,200 silver
way of the Göksu River valley. and gold coins dating from
A temple of Jupiter, with its the reign of Alexander the Great.
surviving columns topped by
stork’s nests, a Byzantine cistern E Silifke Museum
and a Roman bridge can still Taşucu Cad. Tel (0324) 714 10 19.
be seen today. St Paul passed Open 8am–noon & 1–5pm
through here, and Thecla, his Tue–Sun. &
disciple, founded an under-
ground church about 5 km Environs
(3 miles) east of Silifke. This is At Uzuncaburç, about 28 km The romantic sea castle, off the coast
currently being restored. (17 miles) north of Silifke, lie the near Kızkalesi
A Byzantine castle is accessible remains of an impressive Roman
from the Konya road and, city. Inhabited from Hittite times, g Kızkalesi
Kızkalesi is situated where the
Birds of the Göksu Delta narrow coastal strip opens out
South of the main coast road near Silifke, where the Göksu River onto the Çukurova plain. Its chief
reaches the sea, 145 sq km (56 sq miles) have been designated landmarks are two castles, one
as a region of outstanding environmental importance. The two on the shore, and its sister, 200 m
lagoons are home to migrating and permanently residing water (656 ft) out to sea. Local fisher-
birds, including Dalmatian pelicans, pygmy cormorants, marbled men will ferry you over to explore
and white-headed the ruins. The 12th-century castle
ducks, ospreys and terns. on the shore was built on the
The marshlands provide
ancient site of Korykos from
food for wagtails, egrets,
the stones of Greek and Roman
spoonbills and squacco,
grey and purple heron. buildings preceding it.
The best times to see the In the early 19th century, a
birds are at dawn and dusk lighthouse was built on the site
in spring and autumn. of an old sea castle, which lay
Bird-watchers need their own on an island. Legend has it that
transport to tour the Delta, a jealous father confined his
which is also an important daughter to this castle, but
nesting area for loggerhead the fortress was more likely
Nesting storks, Göksu Delta and green turtles. built for protection from the
Mediterranean’s fierce pirates.
Three km (2 miles) east of

Kızkalesi are the ruins of Elaiussa
Sebaste. The area around the
theatre is under excavation
by an Italian team. There is a
Byzantine church and harbour
buildings to the south of the
road. The town must have been
important in classical times, for
no less than three aqueducts and
numerous reservoirs were built
to supply it with water. 4 km (3
miles) further along the coast is
Kanlıdivane (“Place of Blood”),
a huge chasm 60 m (197 ft)
deep, into which prisoners were
thrown to their deaths. There are
several churches and a Hellenistic
tower around the chasm, which
features carvings in niches in the
side and has become a haven for
local wildlife. From this point
onwards, the coast abounds
in ancient ruins, although the
population is sparse until you The spectacular Selale Waterfall on the Tarsus River, outside Tarsus
reach the holiday villages
associated with Mersin. and was first incorporated in E Mersin Museum
1852, with a cosmopolitan Republic Square, Halkevi Binası.
T Castles population of Turks, Greeks Tel (0324) 231 96 18. Open 9am–
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily; and Armenians. The Turkish noon & 1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sun. &
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & government had plans to turn
Mersin into a strategic port,
T Elaiussa Sebaste but this never happened. j Tarsus
Open 9am–6pm daily. & In 1989, the government * 245,000. @ Drop-off point at
initiated a housing scheme here Cleopatra’s Gate. £ from Adana.
for Kurds displaced by ethnic
h Mersin (İçel) fighting in the eastern provinces. Although St Paul is referred to
* 1,327,000. @ NE of city centre
But the transition to city life has in the Bible as “the man from
(service buses from train station). been hard for these people, and Tarsus”, this does not mean that
£ İstiklal Cad NE of city centre, (0324) many remain jobless. Mersin there is a lot to see in the town.
238 16 48. g Near tourist office in the has the transient feel of a port, The museum has moved
harbour area. n İsmet İnönü Bul 5, which many believe stems from to a cultural centre, near an
(0324) 238 32 71. _ Mersin Arts the city not having enjoyed the excavated portion of the old
Festival (Sep). benefits of a structured city. Here, a section of Roman
Ottoman administration. street, complete with stoas
Mersin is a harbour city with About 12 km (covered walkways),
relatively few tourist attractions. (8 miles) west of has been exposed
The main reason to stay here Mersin lie the ruins to a depth of 2–3 m
is to catch a ferry to Northern of Pompeiopolis, (6.5–10 ft) below
Cyprus. Accommodation is where the remains today’s street
plentiful and restaurants varied, of a harbour and a level. In the
with good fish and fast food. column-lined street backstreets of
Mersin’s museum contains that date from the St Paul’s well, Tarsus the town is a
local archaeological remains 2nd century AD survive. covered well, named
such as glass, earthenware In 1812, Captain Francis after St Paul, which is still a
and bronze items. Beaufort described this street, place of pilgrimage.
Mersin means “myrtle” in the city gates, a substantial Tarsus once controlled the
Turkish, referring to the shrub theatre and a “beautiful harbour Cilician Gates, a strategic pass
found all along the coast. The with parallel sides and circular through the Taurus Mountains
city’s official name is İçel (the ends” as being on the whole into the Anatolian interior.
name of the province of which so imposing that even “the The route is now bypassed by
it is the capital). most illiterate seaman in a motorway carrying oil tankers
Compared to other Turkish the ship could not behold and other truck traffic to
cities, Mersin is fairly young, it without emotion”. Ankara and beyond.
k Adana
Adana is an important manufacturing centre, with its origins
rooted in commerce and trade. The city lies on the Seyhan
River, which is spanned by a Roman bridge. This bridge
marks the lowest possible ford over the river, which
bisected a crucial extension of the Silk Route through the
Cilician Gates. The pass linked the coast with the interior
of Anatolia. Adana was ruled by the Arabs, Seljuks,
Armenians and Mamelukes until it came under Ottoman
sovereignty in 1516. From 1918 until 1922, France held
sway over Adana.
The Archaeological Museum, with local
Exploring Adana finds displayed outside
Adana’s old quarter includes
metal workshops, an 18th- E Archaeological Museum
century church and a clock Adana Müzesi
tower. The Roman Stone Fuzuli Sok 10. Tel (0322) 454 38 55.
Bridge, restful park and Open 8:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. & m
stunning Sabancı Central The museum contains objects
Mosque are all worth visiting, from excavations of local
and the city makes a late Hittite sites, as well as
comfortable base if you Hellenistic and Roman remains
are travelling further east. from in and around the
Be sure to sample Adana’s city. A highlight is the
speciality kebab, which is made natural crystal figure of a
of highly spiced minced meat Hittite god, Tarhunda, clad
pressed onto a skewer and in a pointed hat, together with
grilled. This is served with Colourful traditional kilim (rug) in the Eastern Anatolian Urartian belts
şalgam, a fiery blood-red drink Ethnography Museum from around 600 BC.
made from red carrot pickles There is also a gold and silver
and turnip juice, or aşlama, the west of the old town, and ram-headed bracelet and
a liquorice drink. includes a reconstruction of a gold ring bearing the head
an old Adana house. There is of a woman. The fine Achilleus
E Ethnography Museum a collection of ceremonial marble sarcophagus, from the
Etnografya Müzesi weaponry and firearms, 2nd century AD, has lively battle
İnönü Cad (off Ziyapaşa Bulvarı). while the displays of copper scenes; another sarcophagus is
Tel (0322) 363 37 17. Open 8am– kitchenware illustrate a adorned with standing draped
noon & 1–5pm Tue–Sun. & prominent local trade. Tents, women. A Roman mosaic shows
The museum is housed in carpets and textiles complete animals listening to lyre music.
a former church situated to the display.
U Sabancı Central Mosque
Merkez Camii
Fuzuli Cad (near the Roman Stone
Bridge). Open daily (except during
prayer times). & donation.
Completed in 1998, this is
Turkey’s largest mosque and
rivals most in the Middle East
for sheer size. The principal
dome is 54 m (177 ft) high.
The architectural style of the
mosque follows that of the Blue
Mosque (see p92) in Istanbul
and Edirne’s Selimiye Mosque
(see pp160–61). Only the Sabancı
and Blue mosques feature the
hallowed six minarets. All work
on the mosque, down to state-
of-the-art wireless acoustics,
was carried out by Turkey’s
The massive Sabancı Central Mosque, with its six minarets most prestigious craftsmen.
* 2,300,000. n Atatürk Cad 11,
(0322) 363 14 48. _ Altın Koza
Art and Culture Festival (May).
( daily.
Transport
k Şakirağa, 3 km (2 miles) W of
city centre. @ 6 km (4 miles) W
The Roman Stone Bridge, still in use after more than 18 centuries of city centre, (0322) 428 20 47.
£ N end of Ziya Paşa Cad, (0322)
T Roman Stone Bridge scion of a powerful dynastic clan; 453 31 72.  Atatürk Cad,
Taş Köprü however, it was not completed Osman Gazi Cad.
The graceful, 14-arch Roman until 1541. Its octagonal minaret
Stone Bridge over the Seyhan is a particularly striking feature.
River is 319 m (1,056 ft) long. The bands of black and white inside the mosque, is finished
Built in the 2nd century AD, stone used for the mosque in beautiful tiles. A medrese
during the reign of Emperor are a typical feature of Syrian (Koranic seminary) is located
Hadrian, the bridge may be religious architecture. in the east wing of the building.
one of the oldest still used by The impressive tomb of the
vehicular traffic. It originally had Ramazanoğlu family, located ( Covered Bazaar
21 arches, but only 14 of these Near the clock tower on Ali Münif Cad.
are visible and in use today. Open dawn to dusk, daily.
The bridge has been restored Adana’s medieval-looking
several times, first by Emperor clock tower was built in late
Justinian in the 6th century Ottoman times. It overlooks
and later under the Ottomans. the Covered Bazaar, where
handicrafts, trinkets and food
U Great Mosque items are sold. Near the
Ulu Cami Covered Bazaar is the Çarşı
Abidinpaşa Cad. Open daily (except Hamamı, a beautiful, domed
during prayer times). & donation. Turkish bath with an exquisite
The Great Mosque was begun The Great Mosque, decorated with black and marble interior. The baths
in 1507 by Halil Ramazanoğlu, white marble are open to all.
Adana City Centre

1 Ethnography Museum Train station
2 Archaeological Museum 500m (550 yards)
CUM
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5km (3 miles) HIGH
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l Karatepe
Karatepe is a late Hittite fortress dating from the 9th century BC built on a hill beside the
Seyhan River. It was discovered by the German archaeologist H T Bossert and Turkish
archaeologist Halet Çambel in 1946. When the team excavated the site, they found two
entrances. Each was lined with relief carvings and featured an inscription in both ancient
Phoenician and Hieroglyphic Hittite. As the Phoenician language had already been
deciphered, this proved to be a vital clue to the interpretation of the hieroglyphic form of
the Hittite language, which was found to be close to Luwian, an ancient Anatolian language.
Excavating the fortress became the life’s work of Halet Çambel. Today, the pleasant
hilltop site is well worth the 70 km (44 mile) drive from Adana. The site is open
8am–noon and 1–5pm daily, and there is an admission fee.
North
Gate
South
Gate Highest
point
Fortress
wall
Karatepe Fortress
Karatepe Hill juts into the waters of a lake

created by the construction of the Aslantaş
Dam. Water from the lake irrigates the
fertile farmlands around Adana.
The Karatepe site is Carved lion

Orthostat figure
believed to have been (relief panel)
the fortified residence of
the Hittite king of Adana,
Azatiwatas. Entry was
through formal gateways,
one of which is shown
right. Each was lined with
orthostats (carved relief
panels). The gateways are
now roofed to protect
the ancient stonework.
Warrior figure
Relief carvings at
Karatepe show
influences from a
number of cultures,
including Assyria and
ancient Egypt.
Because of this,
archaeologists
The orthostats consist of carvings of believe the carvings
sacrificial, hunting and feasting were executed by
scenes. There are numerous figures foreign craftsmen
of gods and sphinxes, interspersed recruited by King
with scenes of ordinary people, all Azatiwatas to work
done in a cheerful cartoon style. on the site.
The remains of the theatre at Hierapolis (Castabala)
z Hierapolis The complex was the brainchild allegedly slipped in the bath
(Castabala) of Sokollu Mehmet Paşa, while inebriated and never
one of the most enlightened regained consciousness.
22 km (14 miles) N of Osmaniye.
grand viziers ever to serve the
Open 8am–5pm daily. &
Ottoman state. A Serb who
On the road leading to the rose to power from humble c İskenderun
Hittite site of Karatepe, take beginnings, Sokollu Mehmet * 166,000. @ Atatürk Cad, (0326)
some time to see the ancient Paşa served under three sultans 616 36 31. £ İstasyon Cad, (0326) 614
Roman city of Hierapolis between 1564 and 1579. It was 00 49. g İskele Cad, (0326) 613 54 00.
(Castabala) – not to be under his initiative that Sultan n Atatürk Bulvarı 49/B, (0326) 614 16
confused with the other Selim II (1524–74) seized Cyprus 20. _ İskenderun Culture and Fine
Hierapolis (see pp190–91), near from the Venetians in 1571. Arts Week (1st week in Jul).
Denizli. Hierapolis (Castabala) However, Selim’s fondness for
was mentioned by the elder the island’s wine earned him The city of İskenderun
Pliny (AD 23–79) around AD 70. the nickname “the Sot” and (formerly Alexandretta)
There is a colonnaded street, proved to be his undoing, as he was originally founded to
theatre, baths and a hill fortress. commemorate Alexander
the Great’s victory over
Persian emperor Darius
x Yakacık at the Battle of Issus in
332 BC (see pp50–51). It was
22 km (14 miles) N of İskenderun.
n in the town hall. Open 8am– a major trading centre in
5pm daily. 8 h Δ Roman times, and is still an
important port. The people
Yakacık (Ancient Payas) is the of İskenderun are proud of
site of the Sokollu Mehmet their multicultural city and
Paşa complex. This is not an of its remaining Christian
especially well-known and Jewish communities.
archaeological site, but it is The surviving Armenian,
run with great enthusiasm by Catholic and Orthodox
the local municipality. churches are hidden in
The complex features all the the backstreets, along
amenities that would have with mosques. None are
been required by Ottoman particularly old, but all
travellers, including a mosque, will welcome visitors on
a bathhouse, a kervansaray and Sundays. The promenade,
a theological college. The with its attractive French
kervansaray was built in 1574 colonial architecture, is
for Muslims making the haj Massive Atatürk memorial statue on the a favourite place for an
(pilgrimage to Mecca). promenade at İskenderun evening stroll.
v Antakya his headquarters in Antioch.

Rebuilt by the Crusaders, it is
Antakya was founded (as Antioch) by the Seleucids in partially floored with mosaic,
300 BC, and was their capital. Later, it became the third- and the remains of frescoes
largest city of the Roman Empire, and an important Christian can be seen. A tiny spring in
the church was used for
centre. Antioch was devastated by earthquakes in the baptisms. The church was
6th century and fell into Arab hands in 638. Although repaired in the 19th century
recaptured by the Byzantines, its role was gradually displaced by Capuchin monks, who are
by the rise of Constantinople. In 1098, Antakya was captured now its custodians. A festival is
by the Crusaders after a seven-month siege, and became held here annually on 29 June.
Near the church is a relief
capital of the Principality of Antioch. It passed to the
portrait carved into the hillside.
Mamelukes in 1268 and the Ottomans in 1516, and This is thought by some to be
eventually slipped into decline. a representation of Charon,
Exploring Antakya of the real joys of a trip to

Antakya is located on the Asi Hatay is to sample delicious
(Orontes) River. After World War I, muhammara (a spicy dip made
it was part of French-ruled Syria. from hot peppers, walnuts and
Following a plebiscite in 1939, breadcrumbs) and the broad
it became part of Turkey, bean and tahini dip bakla.
together with the rest of Hatay Antakya is also famous for its
Province. The city’s mixed künefe, a wonderful cheese-
population, Arab cultural based pastry dessert.
influence and vestiges of French
colonial rule give Antakya a T St Peter’s Grotto
distinct character. You are likely Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun;
to hear Arabic spoken, and Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm Tue–Sun.& -
many local dishes, such as şam This cave church is thought to
oruğu, a wheaten ball filled with have been founded by St Luke.
minced meat and walnuts, have It is named, however, after Peter,
Arabic origins. Quite different to who was at the forefront of the The Grotto where St Peter preached to
mainstream Turkish cuisine, one early church movement from the early Christians
Antakya City Centre

1 St Peter’s Grotto
Archaeological
2 Bazaar Museum
D
2 km (1.5 miles)
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St Peter’s
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Bus station İSKENDERUN

CA
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4 km (2.5 miles) ABB

DU
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DU
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST b Samandağ

25 km (15 miles) SW of Antakya.
Practical Information  local dolmuş from Antakya.
* 150,000. n Şehit Mustafa
Sevgi Cas 8/A, (0326) 216 60 98. Southwest of Antakya lies
_ St Peter’s Catholic Church Samandağ, a modest, largely
Festival (29 Jun). ( Mon–Sat. Arabic-speaking resort town
Transport near the border, where you
@ Abdürrahman Melek Cad, NE will feel that you have already
of town centre, (0326) 214 91 97. entered Syria. There are a
couple of hotels and seaside
restaurants along the
E Archaeological Museum somewhat scruffy beach.
Atatürk Cad. Tel (0326) 225 10 60. North of the town is the site
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6:30pm Tue– of Seleucia ad Piera (modern-
A cobbler at his work bench in the Bazaar Sun; Nov–Mar: 8:30am–4:30pm day Çevlik), founded as the port
Tue–Sun. & of Antioch in around 300 BC.
the boatman who conveyed Spurred on by the opening This was the site of an important
the dead to Hades. However, the of the superb new museum in temple to Zeus, which still
image is more likely to be that Gaziantep, built to house the stands above the coast and
of a member of the Seleucid mosaics retrieved from Zeugma affords grand views over the sea.
dynasty, founders of the city. (see p311), Antakya opened Because ancient Antioch lay
Three other churches operate its own state-of-the-art at the junction of important
in the city – the central Archaeologıcal Museum trading routes, Seleucia ad Piera
Greek Orthodox Church, in 2014. As in Gaziantep, became a major port, but the
a Capuchin Catholic the star attractions are danger posed by the region’s
church and a Korean Roman-era mosaics, periodic but devastating floods
Methodist church, the many of them found in led Emperor Vespasian to
latter in the former situ at nearby Harbiye commission a tunnel to divert
French Embassy. (ancient Daphne). floodwaters from the town. The
The mosaics portray the Titus Tunnel (Titus ve Vespasian-
P Bazaar deeds of Thetis, Orpheus, yus Tüneli), completed by
Open 9am–9pm Dionysus, Heracles and Vespasian’s son, Titus, is an
Mon–Sat. other mythical figures in impressive feat of engineering,
A warren of streets a lively style. Other running 1,380 m (4,527 ft) through
to the east of the exhibits on display solid rock. The tunnel is 7 m
Roman Bridge include Roman (23 ft) high and 6 m (20 ft) wide.
houses Antakya’s Statue in the sarcophagi and Neo-
bazaar. Here, you can see Archaeological Hittite sculptures T Titus Tunnel
hans (warehouses) dating Museum from nearby sites. 25 km (16 miles) SE of Antakya.
from Ottoman times, in The museum is located Open daily. & Only in summer.
which skilled metalworkers are northeast of the city centre, a
hard at work. Donkeys are couple of kilometres beyond
a common sight in the streets St Peter’s Grotto. The old
around the bazaar, and the Archaeological Museum,
aroma of exotic foods fills the located in the centre of town,
air. The shops in the bazaar are is closed for refurbishment.
a good place to sample künefe, a
pudding made of cream cheese Environs
and spun wheat, baked in a South of Antakya lies Harbiye,
sweet sauce and served warm. famed for its forests of cypress
This is only one of the local and laurel, and for its waterfalls
specialities to be savoured in and trout streams. In antiquity,
the city. Many restaurants are the valley was known as Daphne,
located in the bazaar. after the mythical “queen of the
Habibi Neccar Camii is a nymphs” pursued by Apollo, and
mosque converted from a was a popular resort. However,
Byzantine church, which itself the ruins of the temple to Apollo
succeeded a Classical temple. and the ancient pleasure gardens
The minaret was added in the have all disappeared. Reachable
17th century. It is a place of by dolmuş from Antakya, there
pilgrimage in honour of a local are several good restaurants
saint, whose head is reputedly here, and local gift shops sell The Titus Tunnel, a flood-control project
buried beneath it. the popular laurel soap. built by the Romans
ANKARA AND WESTERN

ANATOLIA
Ankara, the bustling capital of Turkey, can appear
rather soulless and cold in its modernity as it rises
from the plains of Western Anatolia. When Atatürk chose
it as his capital in the 1920s, his determination to westernize led him to
commission the German architect, Hermann Jansen, to build a thoroughly
new city. Today, most tourists visit Ankara for its outstanding museums.
No doubt the most fascinating sight of the legendary King Midas. The more
in Ankara is the superb Museum of picturesque route runs northwest from
Anatolian Civilizations, housing the Ankara through the forests and mineral
greatest collection of Hittite antiquities springs of Kızılcahamam National Park.
in the world. The Hittite civilization Much of the area encompassed by
flourished in central Anatolia during Eşkişehir and Afyon is inhospitable
the second millennium BC, and for some and forbidding. By comparison, the
time their empire almost rivalled that of Lake District forms a welcome oasis
ancient Egypt. The exquisite relief carvings with an abundance of birds attracted
and statues conjure up an intriguing by its reeds and marshlands. Lake Eğirdir
picture of a civilization about which is an unspoiled resort area.
relatively little is known. Also worthy Kütahya owes its existence to an
of a visit is the impressive Atatürk illustrious tile-making tradition on
Mausoleum, the great leader’s which the town still relies today.
enduring symbol of immortality. Konya is the cultural gem of Western
The western approach to Ankara winds Anatolia. Its Seljuk architecture and the
over monochrome, flat, steppe country. impressive Mevlâna Museum, home
Near Polatlı – the easternmost point of the Whirling Dervish sect, make it
reached by Greek forces in 1922 during the one of the country’s most visited sights.
War of Independence – lies Gordion, capital Konya’s Karatay Museum houses an
of the ancient kingdom of Phrygia and seat important tile collection.
Sunflowers thrive on the rolling Anatolian plain

Colonnaded walkway with decorative ceiling at the Atatürk Mausoleum, Ankara
Exploring Ankara and

Western Anatolia
Western Anatolia may seem somewhat bleak
and inhospitable, yet the vast steppes, remote Göynük
ehri
towns and salt lakes have much to offer the rya N
Saka
visitor. This is also where Turkey’s administrative
heart beats. Ankara, the efficient modern capital,
has excellent transport links to the rest of the
country and is a good starting point for tours Söğüt Sarıyar
Barajı
of the region. Southeast of the pious city Bursa
Bozüyük Sündiken Dağla
of Konya, former capital of the Seljuk rı
P orsu
Sultanate of Rum, lies the Bronze Age kÇ
ayı
ESKİŞEHİR
site of Çatalhöyük, widely regarded as
the world’s earliest urban settlement.
Porsuk
Baraji
LEY
KÜTAHYA Çifteler
VA L
Şeyitgazi
Ca
AZİ
De
t
res
ÇAVDARHİSAR i
Altıntaş ŞEYİTG Yazılıkaya
Aslantaş Bayat
Emirdağ
Banaz Düzağac
Houses painted in pastel shades, Afyon Uşak AFYON Bolvadin
Eber
İzmir Gölü
Çay
Sights at a Glance Sandıklı Selevir Su

Baraji
1 Ankara pp244–51 lt
an
2 Konya pp254–7
3 Çatalhöyük Yalvaç
4 Beyşehir
Senirkent
5 Eğirdir Eğirdir
Dinar
6 Afyon Gölü Şarkikaraağaç
7 Sivrihisar
K uy u
8 Şeyitgazi Valley Cardak

9 Eskişehir EĞİRDİR
0 Kütahya pp262–3
cak
Denizli
Burdur Isparta
q Çavdarhisar Gölü Burdur
K ovada
Dag
Gölü
Anatalya
ı
Çobanisa
Key
Motorway
Dual carriageway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Summit
Sunset at tranquil Lake Eğirdir
A N K A R A A N D W E S T E R N A N ATO L I A 243
Gerede Sabanözü
Kızılcahamam
Soğuksu Milli Parkı
Çubuk
Nallıhan
Beypazarı
Ayaş ANKARA The impressive Kocatepe Mosque complex

Elmadağ in Ankara
kara
Mihalıççık An
Kırıkkale
Getting Around
Gölbaşı Ankara is served by Esenboğa
International Airport, and a toll
Gordion motorway (TEM) from Istanbul.
Balâ
Polatlı Dual-carriage approach and feeder
Gavur Kalesi
Kırşehir roads link it to cities such as
SİVRİHİSAR Isparta, Burdur and Afyon. Konya
Haymana
has an airport with daily flights to
Pessinus and from Istanbul. Isparta’s airport
Yenice has weekly flights to Istanbul.
Intercity bus services are
Kulu excellent, and local bus services
Samsam
Gölü are frequent. A high-speed train
connects Ankara and the Istanbul
suburb of Pendikç. There is also a
Yunak
high-speed link between
Ankara and Konya.
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Entrance to the Alaeddin Mosque in Konya
KONYA
Beyşehir
Gölü Karapınar
BEYŞEHIR ÇATALHÖYÜK
İçeriçumra Adana
Bataklık Ereğli
Çumra Gölü Gölü
May Baraji Ereğli
Seydişehir Karadağ
2271m
Ayranci
Suğla Barajı
Gölü
Kâzımkarabekir
Bozkır Belören
Cevizli Karaman
Silifke
0 kilometres 50
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1 Ankara
Ankara, the modern capital of the Turkish Republic, occupies
a strategic location on the east–west route across the
Anatolian steppe. Believed to have been the site of a Hittite
city, there is evidence of Phrygian settlement here in 1200 BC,
when it was known as Ancyra. The city was occupied by the
Lydians and Persians before its absorption into the Roman
Empire in 24 BC. Annexed by the Seljuks in 1073, the city A typical shop selling old carpets in the
played a military and commercial role until Byzantine times. Hisar area
At this time, wool from the Angora (Ankara) goat became a
E Museum of the War
major export. When Atatürk chose Ankara as the new capital of Independence
in 1923, land values boomed and developments spread out Kurtuluş Savaşı Müzesi Kültür
across the surrounding hills. Cumhuriyet Bulvarı, Ulus. İST
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View of Ankara, a modern capital with attractive, wide boulevards
D
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Exploring Ankara Galatia to honour a visit by the K
D
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A metro system, state theatres great Roman emperor, Augustus.

CA
and good museums combine The inscription on the outer

EY
with lush parks and good walls is one of the few surviving YÜCETEPE
A Tİ B
shopping in the Ulus/Hisar testaments to authenticate

NEC
Bus station
district to ensure a pleasant visit. Augustus’s accomplishments. Ankara
5km (3 miles)
Buses and dolmuşes cover the The temple became a Byzantine İSME
T İN
City Centre Ö NÜ
main routes in the city. church in the 4th century AD.
Adjoining the temple are 1 Roman Baths BAKANLI
T Roman Baths the mosque (dating from 1425) 2 Temple of Augustus
Hamamları and tomb of Hacı Bayram Veli and Rome
Çankırı Cad, Ulus. Tel (0312) 310 72 80. (1352–1429), founder of the 3 Museum of the War
@ Ulus. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Bayrami religious sect. The fine of Independence
daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & Seljuk wooden interior, in
AD
4 Republic Museum
EN C
Very little remains to be seen particular, is worth seeing. Some 5 Bazaars and Markets
of these 3rd-century Roman renovation work was done in 6 Ethnography Museum
KM
baths. With the trademark the 17th century by the famous

Dİ
7 Museum of Anatolian
features of frigidarium (cold architect Mimar Sinan (see p105). Civilizations (see pp246–7)
room), tepidarium (warm room) Nearby is the Column of
8 Çengelhan Rahmi M.
and caldarium (hot room), Julian, reaching 15 m (49 ft)
Koç Museum AŞAĞA YRA
these baths were built to and dating from AD 362.
9 Citadel
honour Asclepius, the Greek The column commemorates
0 Youth Park
god of medicine. a visit by this Roman emperor.
q Locomotive Museum
T Temple of Augustus U Hacı Bayram Veli w Atatürk Mausoleum
and Rome @ Ulus. Open daily (except during e Kocatepe Mosque
Augustus Tapınağı prayer times). & donation r Atatürk Boulevard
Ulus. @ Ulus. Open daily. appreciated. t Kavaklidere
This temple was built in about T Column of Julian y Turkish Grand
20 BC by King Pylamenes of Jülyanüs Direği. @ Ulus. National Assembly
ANKARA 245
The attractive museum building E Republic Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

once served as the Grand Cumhuriyet Müzesi
National Assembly. A collection Cumhuriyet Meydanı. Tel (0312) 310 Practical Information
of photographs, ephemera and 53 61. @ Ulus.  Ulus. Open Apr– * 4,630,000. n Gazi Mustafa
documents records the events Oct: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: Kemal Bulvarı 121, Tandoğan,
that led up to the founding 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & (students, (0312) 231 55 72. ( daily in Ulus
of the Republic (1919–23). soldiers and teachers free). and Kale. _ International Ankara
Although captions are in Turkish, The displays in the museum Music Festival (Apr); Film Festival
(late Apr–early May); Cartoon
the exhibits are self-explanatory. celebrate the advances and
Festival (2nd week in May).
achievements that the Turkish
Republic has made since its Transport
Roman Airport inception in 1923. Most of k Esenboğa International
30 km (20 miles)
Baths
Airport, (0312) 398 00 00. £
D
the labels are in Turkish.

I CA
Talatpaşa Bul, (0312) 311 06 20.

Ç A NK I R
Hacı Bayram Veli

ULUS Bazaars and Markets @ Bahçelerarası Cad, Söğütözü,
Temple of Augustus and Rome
@ Ulus. Open 9:30am–5:30pm (0312) 224 10 00.  east–west
Museum of the
Inönü B Ankaray line and north–south
War of Independence E N TD daily.
Park ER
HİSAR P AR ES
ULUS KI CAD İ
CA
Metro line, with various
Republic MEYDANI D
The most interesting Citadel
Museum stops; both operate from
Çengelhan Rahmi and “authentic”
Bazaars
HİSAR M Koç Museum 6:15am–midnight.
Ulus shopping
A N A FA
Youth districts are in

L VA R I
Park Museum of Anatolian

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the Ulus/Hisar dating from Seljuk times

AL
Civilizations D
CA
AR
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A N LA
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area. The onwards, the museum offers

CA
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BU
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SIR
streets to look a charming record of Turkish

CILAR
TALA CAD
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for are Salman costume and handicrafts
Yeni Ankara
Sokak, Konya through the years.
K
Ethnography Hamamı
TÜ R
CAD
Museum
Sokak and Çıkrıkçılar
AT A
YA Sokak. Markets cater E Çengelhan Rahmi

R BU
L SIHHİYE
MEYD CE M A L G Ü R S E L C A D
Kurtuluş
to tourists and sell a M. Koç Museum
Sıhhiye
Abdi
İpekçi Kurtuluş
wide range of jewellery, Çengelhan Rahmi M. Koç Müzesi
Park Park D carpets, herbal remedies, Sutepe Mah, Depo Sokak 1, Altındağ,
A KURTULUŞ
C Ankara. Tel (0312) 309 68 00.
SIHHİYE LP
spices, iron and copper
A Open 10am–5pm Tue–Thu, 10am–
K trinkets, as well as various
MI
Ö
TH
G
textiles. Also look out for the 7pm Sat & Sun. & = - 7
AT
Kolej
A
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Zİ
PA Ş
KIZI Bakırçılar Çarşısı (Copperworkers’

AC
LAY Kızılay Bazaar) on Salman Sokak. A sister museum to the Rahmi

A
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D
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Local flea markets and Koç Industrial Museum in

A C
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TİY produce markets are held in Istanbul, the Ankara site is
RU
FA
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MEŞ
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most districts at least once a opposite the entrance to

MÜ
Kocatepe
Mosque week. One of the best takes Ankara Castle in a restored
SOK
Atatürk
Boulevard
KOCATEPE place on Saturdays on Konya 16th century kervansaray.
Sokak in the Ulus area.
A TAT
BUL Eclectic exhibits range from

KAR A K AY C AD toys, bicycles, prams and
ÜRK
E Ethnography Museum scientific instruments to air, rail

B
ES
Ü
LB
A T LÜM S O K
Turkish Grand Ethnografya Müzesi and sea transport. Early motor

Ü
C
BÜ
LD
A
K
National Assembly D
TU
Talat Paşa Bulvarı. Tel (0312) 310 30

ER
cars include a 1918 Model T Ford.

NU
ES
07. @ Ulus. Open 8:30am–12:30pm A replica of the Nile river boat

İ
Küçükesat
S C
D
İ CA
Hamamı
& 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & P
CAD
AD
from the film The African Queen

İLM
LI H
Set in a pretty, white marble is among the 1,200 items on

PA R I S C A
BU
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TUN A
kiosk (summerhouse), with display. There are two good

EH AT
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beautiful Ottoman interiors, and on-site restaurants.

AR
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carpets and mosque woodwork

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TA
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Kuğulu
Park Karum P Turkish Grand
VENLİK
National Assembly
NCI Kavaklidere
GÜNEŞ SO K
TBMM (Türkiye Büyük Millet Meclesi

C A DA H
GÜ
Ismet Inönü Bul. Tel (0312) 420 67 42.

N
C İN
Çankaya, @ Bakanlıklar. Closed to the public.

Presidential Palace
Atakule,
This impressive complex, housing
Botanical Gardens the legislature, is of a pre-World
War II, German design. Visitors
0 metres 200 wishing to see the General
0 yards 200
Assembly Meeting Hall of the
Triangular fountain outside the Turkish TGNA must call (0312) 420 68 87
Grand National Assembly to make an appointment.
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations

Anadolu Medeniyetleri Müzesi
Turkey’s most outstanding museum occupies two renovated
Ottoman-era buildings and is situated in the Atpazarı (horse
market) district of the city, below the citadel. The museum
displays the achievements of Anatolia’s many diverse cultures.
Exhibits range from simple Paleolithic stone tools to clay
tablets inscribed in Assyrian cuneiform and exquisite
Hellenistic and Roman sculptures. The displays are laid out in . Serving Table
Found at Gordion (see
chronological order, and include a statuette of the Mother p251), this 8th-century BC
Goddess from Çatalhöyük (see p258), Bronze Age treasures folding wooden table
from the royal tombs at Alacahöyük (see p298) and superb is an outstanding
Hittite sculptures and orthostat reliefs. example of Phrygian
craftsmanship.
Lecture theatre
Urartian Lion Statuette

Unearthed at Kayalıdere, this
small bronze lion shows the
skill of the Urartian craftsmen.
Museum Entrance
The main displays are housed
in the Mahmut Paşa Bedesten,
a bazaar warehouse built in
the 15th century.
Terracotta Cooking Pot

Neolithic peoples favoured
the use of terracotta. This
small pot and stand, found
at Çatalhöyük (see p258),
dates from approximately
the 6th millennium BC.
ANKARA 247
. Sphinx Relief VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This well-preserved
Neo-Hittite stone Practical Information
relief, dating from the Saraçlar Sokak (below the Citadel).
9th century BC, was Tel (0312) 310 87 87. Open Apr–
found at Carchemish. Oct: 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (to
5:30pm Nov–Mar). & = -
Transport
@ X Ulus.
Ground floor
Interior
The uncluttered layout of the interior
provides the perfect setting for the vast
range of historic collections.
Golden Bowl with Studs

This early Bronze Age bowl
from Alacahöyük dates from
the 3rd millennium BC.
. Roman Head
The spread of classical Greek and
Roman civilization gave rise to
more realistic works of art,
Lower floor
such as this marble head.
Key
Urartian Period
Phrygian Period
Hittite Period
Assyrian Colonies
Early Bronze Age
Chalcolithic and Neolithic
Palaeolithic
Classical Period
Artifacts displayed in the museum gardens

Exploring Ankara
Visitors travelling to Ankara will notice the striking
contrasts between the modern city centre and the old
town. Wide, tree-lined boulevards, green parks, smart
embassies, government buildings and universities make
up the new administrative centre, while parts of the old
town – particularly a number of streets around the citadel –
are remarkably simple and traditional. Atatürk’s striking
mausoleum dominates the modern part of this capital city,
Aerial view of Ankara’s Youth Park
symbolizing a fusion of ancient and modern concepts.
is located inside the station.
+ Citadel also a funfair (luna park), a Atatürk’s personal railway
Hisar sports stadium, tennis courts carriage, a gift from Adolf Hitler,
Hisarparkı Cad. @ Hisar. Open daily. and a swimming pool. can be seen adjacent to the main
The Hisar, or Byzantine citadel, The lovely Korean Garden, station concourse. The open-air
dominates the northern end on the other side of Cumhuriyet collection of steam-driven giants,
of Ankara. The walls enclose Bulvarı, commemorates the oft- located across the railway tracks
a ramshackle collection of forgotten combat role played to the left, includes a number
wooden houses, with some by Turkish soldiers during the of old German models which
passable restaurants, several Korean War (1950–54). The 45-m- were used during the invasion
carpet shops and junkyards filled (148-ft-) high Parachute Tower of Russia in World War II.
with antiques and collectables. here was once popular with If the museum is closed, ask
Salman Sokak, or “Copper Alley”, daredevils willing to pay to one of the railway personnel
lives up to its nickname, with leap from its heights. in the station building to
plenty of old and new copper arrange for someone
pieces on offer. You will find E Turkish Railways to open it.
bargains and bric-a-brac here, Open-Air Steam
but few real treasures. Locomotive Museum P Atatürk Mausoleum
Açık Hava Buharlı Anıtkabir
Youth Park Lokomotif Müzesi Anıt Cad, Anıttepe. Tel (0312) 231
Gençlik Parkı Ankara Gar Sahası, Celâl Bayar 79 75. @ Anıttepe.
Atatürk Bulvarı. @ Opera or Ulus. Bulvarı üzeri. Tel (0312) 309 05  Tandoğan. Open Feb–mid-
 Ulus. Open dawn to dusk daily. 15. Open 9am–6pm daily. & May: 9am–4:30pm; mid-May–
The Youth Park just south of This impressive open-air Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–Jan:
9am–4pm. Sound and light
Ulus is Ankara’s liveliest and museum close to the
show (summer).
most popular area for urban Ankara Railway Station
recreation. Now extensively is bound to appeal to Guard at the Ankara’s most imposing
renovated, the park has a small a broad audience, and Atatürk site commands a hill
lake with fountains. There are not simply those visitors Mausoleum to the west of the city.
also a few pleasant cafés, where interested in steam Construction of this
tea is served in a samovar traction. It should not be monument, begun in 1944, was
(double-tiered pot) at tables confused with the Turkish completed in 1953. Twenty-four
overlooking the lake. There is Railways (TCDD) Museum, which stone lions flank the pathway
leading to the mausoleum.
To one side of the central
courtyard, bronze doors open
into the marble-lined hall and
cenotaph, where visiting heads
of state and vast numbers of
ordinary Turks still come to pay
their respects to Turkey’s
supreme leader. İsmet İnönü,
second President of the
Republic, is entombed opposite.
A hall nearby houses some
splendid vintage cars used by
Atatürk, and visitors can also
admire a display of personal
possessions and gifts presented
to Atatürk by fellow heads of
Vintage steam engine at the Open-Air Steam Locomotive Museum state over the years.
ANKARA 249
U Kocatepe Mosque
Kocatepe Camii
Olgunlar Sok. @ Kocatepe.  Kızılay.
Open daily (except during prayer
times). & donations appreciated.
Kocatepe Mosque is a landmark
in Ankara. One of the world’s
largest mosques, it is a four-
minaret replica of the Blue
Mosque (see pp92–3) in Istanbul.
Underneath it is a western-style
shopping centre called Beğendik,
as well as a large car park.
Chandelier inside the Kocatepe Mosque
Atatürk Boulevard
Atatürk Bulvarı you to the impressive Atakule P Atatürk Farm and Zoo
Ankara’s premier boulevard links tower and shopping complex. Atatürk Orman Çiftliği
the old city with the Presidential In good weather, the restaurant Çiftlik Cad. Tel (0312) 211 01 70.
Palace and the official at the top of the 125 m- (410 ft-) £ Gazi. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Thu,
government buildings. Along high tower affords excellent Sat & Sun.
the way is the original home of views over the city. Ankara’s many parks were
the Red Crescent (Kızılay), the established in the early years
Islamic equivalent of the Red E Presidential Palace of the republic, since Atatürk
Cross, as well as Turkey’s first Cumhurbaşkanlığı Köşkü believed that parks and natural
department store, Gima. Çankaya Cad. Tel (0312) 470 11 00. recreation areas were part
@ Çankaya. Open 1–5pm Sun & of his country’s heritage.
= Kavaklıdere and national holidays only. & no entrance His farm on the outskirts of
Çankaya fee, but passport or identity card Ankara is one such peaceful
required. 8
Ankara’s up-market shopping retreat and is a good destination
areas cater for the diplomatic Set in a formal garden, the for those with children.
corps and government elite. residence is not open to There is a replica of
The best can be found south the public, but visitors can Atatürk’s boyhood home
of Kızılay in the suburbs of view Atatürk’s house, in Salonika (modern
Kavaklıdere and Çankaya, where which is now a Thessaloniki), and there
many foreign embassies are museum, within the are large leafy grounds
located. Going south on Tunalı grounds. The father and orchards to
Hilmi Caddesi, parallel to Atatürk of the Turkish republic explore and enjoy.
Bulvarı, you reach Kuğulu Park moved here in 1921 and The farm grounds
and Cinnah Caddesi. Both this is where he planned adjoin the railway line.
streets are studded with the direction his country It is most convenient to
designer boutiques. Karum, would take in years take the suburban train
opposite the park, is an to come. The house Sign at to Gazi Station and
exclusive shopping centre. has a slightly sombre Atatürk Farm make your way from
Do not expect bargains here. atmosphere. The ground there. A controversial
floor is decorated in a classic monumental presidential
= Atakule Ottoman fashion, while upstairs complex, known as the
Atatürk Bulvarı terminates in provides visitors with a glimpse White Palace (Ak Saray), was
Çankaya Caddesi. A short stroll of Atatürk’s lifestyle and completed in 2014, and is
down this lively street will take personal tastes. located inside the grounds.
The vast central courtyard and stark simplicity of Atatürk’s mausoleum, housing his plain sarcophagus
Ankara: Further Afield

Life in the Turkish capital is enhanced by a number of green
belts situated around the outskirts of the city. Here, the focus
is on outdoor and leisure activities. These are made possible
by the proximity of forests, ski centres, thermal spas and some
attractive picnic areas. Most forest areas and parks are open
from dawn to dusk; a guardian or ranger is generally in
attendance and a small fee will be charged for vehicles. Taking
your own vehicle is recommended for maximum enjoyment;
the centres are clearly marked off the main roads. Note that A pleasant outdoor swimming pool
at Kızılcahamam
camping is restricted to designated areas only. Most of the
attractions listed here are day outings from Ankara, but if you Ankara, it is also the most
want to “take the waters” at a spa, plan to spend a few days. suited to tourists. There are
comfortable hotels and other
facilities for visitors who want
to stay for a few days. Some
treatments involve not only
bathing in, but also drinking,
the mineral-rich waters, which
contain bicarbonate, chloride,
sodium and carbon dioxide.
} Bolu
137 km (85 miles) NE of Ankara. Take
toll motorway (E89) from Ankara to
Istanbul, or highway (no toll) E80.
n (0374) 212 22 54.
The Bolu area is known for its
deciduous forests and a steep
mountain pass, which affords
splendid views. It also produces
The town of Kızılcahamam, with the blue spa building on the left a delicious ewe’s milk cheese.
At Kartalkaya, 42 km (26 miles)
} Apple Mountain picnic places and well-marked east of the town of Bolu, one
Elma Dağı hiking trails, and offers a relaxing of Turkey’s best ski centres is
23 km (14 miles) E of Ankara on the retreat from the city. open from December to March.
Sivas road. & The region’s many natural
Located at an altitude of 1,855 m hot mineral springs have been } Gölbaşı Lake and
(6,085 ft), this is the nearest ski developed to create spa resorts. Çubuk Dam
centre to Ankara. On snowy One of the best of these is 25 km (16 miles) S of Ankara along the
weekends the slopes are Kızılcahamam. Of all the E90 towards Konya and 12 km
crowded with locals skiing, thermal spas scattered around (7.5 miles) N of Ankara on the D180
skating and tobogganing. towards Çorum respectively.
Although the season here is Gölbaşı and the Çubuk Dam are
limited and the runs short and popular with Turkish families for
busy, Apple Mountain makes day outings, weekend picnics
a good place to practise before and informal waterside lunches.
heading eastwards to try the Both locations also offer
more challenging runs at excellent lakeside restaurants.
Palandöken (see p323).
s Haymana Hot Springs
O Soğuksu National Park Haymana Kaplıca
Soğuksu Milli Parkı 60 km (38 miles) S of Ankara.
82 km (51 miles) N of Ankara. Tel contact hotels directly for
Tel (0312) 736 11 15 bookings. _ Hot Springs
(national park office). & Festival (3rd week in Jun).
If you like walking and trekking Haymana is one of six thermal
in a beautiful and safe forest spas within easy reach of
area, this is the ideal place to go. Ankara, and its history extends
The forest park, situated at an Shady forest footpath in the Soğuksu as far back as Roman times. It is
altitude of 975 m (3,200 ft), has National Park worth coming here for the
ANKARA 251
Gordion was famous as the seat the tomb they found the
of the legendary King Midas, skeleton of a man of around
whose touch was said to have 60 years of age, who is now
turned everything to gold. believed to be another king
Legend has it that this power from the same dynasty.
turned on Midas when he The acropolis has also been
touched his daughter, as well as excavated, and shows layers of
his food and drink. The problem civilization from the Bronze Age
was solved only when the to Greek and Roman times.
god Dionysus took pity on him Although the acropolis gives
and granted him a cure. It is an idea of the size and extent
thought that Midas took his own of the historic settlements in
life in 695 BC after a crushing the region, most of the mosaics
military defeat. found there have
Municipal water fountain in the centre Phrygia reached its been moved and
of Haymana zenith in the middle are now kept in the
of the 8th century BC, museum. In other
relaxing atmosphere and to but Gordion was places, simple roof
experience the feeling of made famous again structures have been
physical well-being after a good by Alexander the erected to protect
soak. At Haymana, the waters Great (see pp50–51). excavated mosaics
emerge at 45°C (113°F) and In 333 BC, after from the elements.
you can smell the calcium, wintering in Lycia, Phrygian mosaic, The Gordion
magnesium, sodium and Alexander led his Gordion Museum Museum was
bicarbonate. There are several army northward established in 1963,
good hotels here, providing from Sagalassos to Gordion. and has been nominated for
a wide range of facilities. Here, he came upon and cut the several awards over the years.
Gordian knot (see p51), fulfilling It displays Bronze Age, Hittite,
T Infidel’s Castle a prophecy that whoever Hellenistic, Greek and Roman
42 km (26 miles) NE of Haymana loosed the bond would become finds, but its displays concentrate
Open daily. the ruler of the known world. on the Phrygian period, and
A sight worth visiting in this Today, little remains of the feature many superbly crafted
region is the Infidel’s Castle palace, but about 80 burial artifacts. The exhibits include
(Gavur Kalesi). Strategically mounds of Phrygian kings have ceramics, woodwork and several
perched on a sheer cliff, it been excavated in the Gordion bronze vessels found in the
consists of an underground cult area over the past 40 years. The Midas Tomb, as well as musical
tomb with two adjoining tomb most interesting of these is the instruments and more.
chambers, and was discovered Midas Tomb (Midas Tümülusü),
in 1930. Gavur Kalesi depicts which lies within the grounds of T Midas Tomb
two gods standing opposite a the Gordion Museum (Gordion Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
sitting goddess. There are also Müzesi). The large mound is Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
remnants of a burial chamber thought to cover the chamber E Gordion Museum
2 m (6.5 ft) underground. in which the king was buried, 9 km (5 miles) N of the town.
and is 50 m (164 ft) in height. Tel (0312) 638 21 88.
Polatlı and Gordion When archaeologists opened Open 8:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
70 km (43 miles) W of Ankara. £ from
Ankara to Polatı, then taxi. @ intercity
bus between Ankara and Afyon,
getting off at Polatı. Take a taxi or one
of the infrequent dolmuşes from there.
The village of Yassıhöyük stands
on the site of Gordion, the
capital of ancient Phrygia,
dating from around the 8th
century BC. There are several
sights worth seeing here, and
you can easily tour the site in
the course of a day trip from
Ankara. If you wish to stay over,
however, the nearby town of
Polatlı, some 18 km (11 miles)
to the southeast, is well
supplied with hotels and
some good restaurants. Entrance to the burial mound said to house the tomb of King Midas
Sufi dervishes performing a mystic dance as part of the sema worship ceremony, Konya
2 Street-by-Street: Konya
Konya is set on a high, bleak plain in the middle of
the Anatolian steppe. Known throughout Turkey for
its pious inhabitants and strong Islamic leanings, this
ancient city has an increasingly modern and prosperous
appearance. Konya has been inhabited since Hittite
times. It was known as Iconium to the Romans and
Byzantines. The city’s heyday was in the 12th century,
when it was the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum.
At the heart of the city lies the circular Alaeddin Park Villa of Sultan Kılıç Arslan
(Alaeddin Parkı), a low hill dominated by the Alaeddin A concrete arch covers the remains
of this Seljuk landmark. Nearby are
Mosque, Konya’s largest. It was finished in 1220 by tea gardens.
Alaeddin Keykubad I (1219–36), the greatest and
most prolific builder of the Seljuk sultans.
. Konya Fairground
Fairs are now held elsewhere,
I
R
A
so the shady gardens are

LV
a cool, restful retreat.

BU
ÍN
D
D
AE
AL
The Seminary of the Slender

Minaret, now housing the Museum
of Wood and Stone Carving, is
named after its elegant tiled minaret.
Ottoman House
Grand three-storey
houses with projecting 0 metres 80
balconies are typical of
middle-class homes 0 yards 80
built during the late
Ottoman period.
K O N YA 255
. Karatay Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Housed in the Great
Karatay Seminary, a Practical Information
13th-century Seljuk * 1,565,000.
theological school, the n Mevlâna Cad 65, (0332) 353
Karatay Museum houses 40 20 (ext 147/148). _ Mevlâna
a superb collection Festival (7–17 Dec). ( daily.
of ceramics and tiles.
Transport
@ 11 km (7 miles) NW of city
centre, (0332) 265 02 44.
k 20 km (12 miles) N of city
centre, (0332) 239 13 43. £ Ferit
Paşa Cad, (0332) 332 36 70.
D
A
C
R A
KA
AN
. Alaeddin Mosque
The mosque is set in beautiful
wooded surroundings on a site
that has been used since
prehistoric times.
AL
AE
DD
ÍN
BU
LVA
RI
Tiled mihrab
Car Park The mihrab in the
Alaeddin Mosque
Key
is adorned with
Suggested route some of the finest
Seljuk tilework.
Mevlâna Museum
Mevlâna Müzesi
The city of Konya has close links with the life
and work of Celaleddin Rumi, or Mevlâna, the
13th-century founder of the Mevlevi Dervish
sect – better known as the “Whirling” Dervishes
(see p259). Rumi developed a philosophy
of spiritual union and universal love, and is
regarded as one of the Islamic world’s greatest
mystics. He settled in Seljuk-ruled Konya and
is believed to have died here in 1273. The entrance to the museum, with the famous
The museum is an enlargement of the original green-tiled dome
dervish lodge (tekke). It contains the tomb
of Rumi, the ceremonial hall (semahane), and
displays of memorabilia and manuscripts. There
Entrance
are also galleries for spectators and musicians.
. Ablutions Fountain
Used in the dervish cleansing ritual,
the ablutions fountain (şadırvan)
is pleasantly cooling on hot days.
Hürrem Sultan
Mausoleum
Cemetery
Dervish Life
Life-like mannequins clad in authentic dress illustrate the
spiritual aspects of the daily life of an initiate in the lodge.
K O N YA 257
Selimiye Cad, Mevlâna Mahallesi.
Tel (0332) 351 12 15. Open Apr–Oct:
9am–6:30pm daily (to 4:40pm Nov–
Mother-of-Pearl Case Mar). Women should cover their
This case is said to contain the heads and shoulders. & = 7
beard of the Prophet Mohammed.
Prominent
female members
of the Mevlâna
order are buried
in this graveyard. . Semahane (Ceremonial Hall)
Once the setting for the whirling ceremony,
the Semahane now houses museum displays.
Verandah
Musical Instruments
Instruments used by the dervishes
include this ud, finely worked in ivory
with a mother-of-pearl fretboard.
. Mevlâna’s Tomb
Gilded calligraphy adorns the
walls around the sarcophagus.
The tombs of Rumi’s father and
other dervish leaders are nearby.
Key
Dervish Lodge
Administrative Offices
Dervish Assembly Chamber
Monumental Fountain
Recitation Room
Mescid-Chapel Mosque
Semahane (Ceremonial Hall)
Tombs of Çelebi
3 Çatalhöyük
60 km (36 miles) S of Konya. Own
transport or taxi recommended. Turn
left to Çumra, from the Karaman/
Mersin road. ∑ catalhoyuk.com
Dating from as early as 7000 BC,

Çatalhöyük is one of the world’s
earliest urban settlements. It
was originally discovered and
excavated by James Mellaart in
1958. Research under the
leadership of Ian Hodder
resumed in 1993. The site is on
the UNESCO World Heritage list. Eğirdir Lake, a tranquil haven for naturalists
It is thought that roughly
10,000 people lived here in flat- 4 Beyşehir of this type of architecture
roofed square houses with remaining from the Beylik
* 70,000. @ frequent buses from
rooftop entrances and high period (see p57).
Konya, or intercity buses to Burdur.
windows. The city was the focus
of a culture that produced an Beyşehir is the largest of the U Eşrefoğlu Mosque
array of mural decoration, freshwater lakes in what is Beside the bus station, NW after
decorative textiles and pottery. known as Turkey’s Lake District, crossing the weir-bridge. Open prayer
Visitors can enter the site only and the third largest in the times, but a guardian will let visitors in
when accompanied by an country. Its shallow waters at other times. & donation.
official museum guide. contain carp, perch and
The Çatalhöyük pike. The town of the
Museum displays same name, at the 5 Eğirdir
the latest finds, and southeastern
* 17,000. £ daily to Istanbul via
there are “virtual corner of the lake,
Afyon, (0246) 311 46 94. @ (0246) 311
reality” exhibits in features an unusual 40 36. n 2 Sahil Yolu, (0246) 311 43 88.
houses and shrines. combined weir ( Thu. _ Apple Festival (Sep).
Artifacts displayed in and bridge.
the museum are repro- Bronze bowl found One of the main Ringed by mountains rising
ductions; the originals at Çatalhöyük reasons for coming to 3,000 m (9,842 ft), Eğirdir
are either in museums to Beyşehir is to see Lake makes a good base for
in Konya or the superb Museum the Eşrefoğlu Mosque walkers, birders and flower
of Anatolian Civilizations (Eşrefoğlu Camii), dating enthusiasts. In May, the hills
(see pp246–7) in Ankara. from 1297. The wooden interior, display many flowering bulbs,
with its 48 wooden columns orchids and become a stop-
E Çatalhöyük Museum and mihrab (prayer niche) over for migrating birds. Eğirdir
Tel (0332) 452 56 21. Open Apr–Oct: decorated with cut tiles, is makes an ideal base for exploring
9am–7pm daily (to 5pm Nov–Mar). 8 among the finest examples the northern sections of the
St Paul trail, Turkey’s second-
longest long-distance walk.
Environs
Antiocheia-in-Pisidia is famous
as the place where St Paul
first preached to the Gentiles.
The ruins of the city include the
basilica of St Paul, a synagogue,
Roman theatre, baths and
a superb aqueduct.
Davraz Ski Centre is oper-
ational from December to April.
There are two hotels at the
centre itself, and more accom-
modation in Çobanisa village,
some 7 km (4 miles) below.
Davraz Ski Centre

∑ davrazkayakmerkezi.com for
The unusual wooden interior of the Eşrefoğlu Mosque the most up-to-date information.
The Whirling Dervishes

The Mevlevi order, better known as the Whirling Dervishes, was founded by the
Sufi mystic Celaleddin Rumi, also called Mevlâna. He believed that music and dance
represented a means to induce an ecstatic state of universal love and offered a way
to liberate the individual from the anxiety and pain of daily life. His greatest work,
the six-volume Mesnevi, consists of 25,000 poems that were read in the tekkes (lodges)
of the order. Central to the practice of the dervishes is the sema, or whirling ceremony.
This consists of several parts, each with its own meaning. Love is the central theme
of the mystical cycle of the sema, which symbolizes the sharing of God’s love among
earthly beings. For man, the dance is a spiritual ascent to divine love. The sema
combines both spiritual and intellectual elements, emphasizing self-realization
and the ultimate goal, which is perfect union with God.
Cymbals
Conical headdress Ud Duvar
Ney
Black cloak
Clothing worn for the sema

has symbolic meaning.
The headdress, for
example, stands for
the tomb of the ego.
Musical accompaniment is highly symbolic:
the ney (reed flute) represents the breath of God.
The Sema Ritual

The sema consists of five parts,
the first three of which are
prayers, greetings, and musical
improvisations. The ritual then
moves into four salutes
(selams): truth through
knowledge, the splendour
of creation, total submission
before God and coming
to terms with destiny.
Whirling is the climax of the sema. Its selams (salutes)
represent stages during the rapture of submission to God.
The wide
white skirt
symbolizes
the ego’s The movement
shroud. concludes with
a bow, signifying
the return
to a state of
subservience.
The dervishes The dervishes extend their

greet one another arms, to allow divine energy Verses from the
and salute the to enter the right palm, Koran are read after
soul, which is move through the body the dance, including
“enslaved” by and pass out through the a prayer for the
shapes and bodies. left palm into the earth. peace of all souls.
The Archaeological 7 Sivrihisar

Museum contains a * 32,600. @ along the E90 from
collection of largely Polatlı, then dolmuş to the town.
Roman artifacts, which
were excavated from Sivrihisar is the ancient town
around Isparta, Uşak, of Justinianopolis, built by
Burdur and Kütahya. Emperor Justinian (see p53)
Afyon was Atatürk’s to guard the western route to
headquarters for the final Ancyra (ancient Ankara). The
stages of Turkey’s War of modern town is spread out
Independence (see p62), at the foot of a crag, on which
which reached a climax lie the remains of the original
with the victory over Byzantine fortress. The Great
the advancing Greek Mosque (Ulu Cami), built in
army at Dumlupınar 1247, is an excellent example
on 26 August 1922. of a Seljuk mosque. Some of its
The Victory Museum 67 wooden pillars have intricately
(Zafer Müzesi), known carved and painted capitals.
more for its classical A warren of pretty Ottoman
Anatolian architecture houses surrounds the mosque,
Cobbled street in the old quarter of Afyon than for its contents, and the Sivrihisar area is famous
recalls the heady days for fine hand-woven kilims.
6 Afyon of national liberation. Most of
* 186,000. @ İsmet İnönü Cad,
the top Republican comman- Environs
(0272) 212 09 63. £ (0272) 213 00 22. ders stayed in this building 14 km (9 miles) to the south
n Cumhüriyet Meydani, Hükümet during the campaign. There of Sivrihisar lie the ancient ruins
Konağı Yanı, (0272) 213 54 47. is also a war memorial at of Pessinus, near the modern
nearby Dumlupınar. village of Ballıhisar (honey castle).
The word Afyon means “opium”, During the 3rd century BC,
and it is difficult not to miss U Great Mosque Pessinus was an important
the fields of white and dark Ulu Cami Phrygian cult centre but was
purple opium poppies if you Open during prayer, or ask the abandoned in around AD 500
visit the area in May. Opiates are guardian on duty to let you in. or 600. Sights include the scant
extracted for medicinal purposes & donation. remains of a temple of Cybele,
at a factory in nearby Bolvadın, E Afyon Archaeological Museum the Anatolian mother goddess.
using the special poppy straw Kurtuluş Cad 96. Tel (0272) 215 11 91. However, nothing is left of the
method. The town museum Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun; stadium and theatre. At one
has exhibits detailing various Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & time, it is believed that there
methods of opiate extraction. E Victory Museum
were over 360 springs here,
Other local products are Zafer Müzesi and the remains of hydraulic
a white, soft marble, which In front of the Governor’s Building. works can still be seen.
is found in huge slabs along Tel (0272) 212 09 16. Open 9am– The site is open to the public
the roadsides and is used for noon & 1–5pm Tue–Sun. and access is free, if not easy.
everything from gravestones to
kitchen basins. Afyon Kaymağı,
a rich clotted cream, is typically
served on small metal trays and
eaten with honey for breakfast.
Towering over the town is a
225 m (738 ft) crag that can be
reached by climbing 700 steps.
The Hittites and Byzantines may
have used its commanding
position for a fortress, but exact
dates are speculative.
The Seljuks left the greatest
mark on Afyon’s history.
The major Seljuk building is
the Great Mosque (Ulu Cami),
completed in 1272. It features
a geometric wooden ceiling
and 40 wooden columns,
some with traces of paint on
the intricately carved capitals. The “forest of columns” in the Great Mosque in Sivrihisar
q Çavdarhisar
(Aezani)
60 km (37 miles) SW of Kütahya.
 infrequent dolmuş to and from
Kütahya. Tel (0274) 223 62 13.
Nov– Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
The Phrygian site at Aezani

(today’s Çavdarhisar) does
not feature on most tourists’
itineraries, but a visit here
The Tomb of King Midas (left), cut from solid rock will be highly rewarding.
Aezani reached its zenith
8 Şeyitgazi Valley centuries, but has also been in the 2nd century AD, when it
* 32,600.  or on foot.
ravaged by passing armies. was transformed from a minor
It was badly damaged during settlement into a large, thriving
The village of Şeyitgazi is the War of Independence and city and sanctuary of Zeus,
named after Şeyyid Battal Gazi, has few historical monuments. ruler of the gods. At this time,
an Arab commander and Today, it is a major railway the legend of Zeus’s birth in
martyr (şehit), and “warrior of junction, as well as the home the nearby cave at Steunos
the faith”, who died during the base of the Turkish air force. reinforced the belief in pagan
siege of Afyon in about AD 750. Eskişehir is also a mining culture, even though such cult
His large tomb, and that of the centre, with supplies of borax, worship was at that time being
Byzantine princess who fell chrome and manganese, as well challenged elsewhere by early
in love with him, are housed as meerschaum (or “sea foam”), Christian communities. Today,
in a beautiful tekke (monastery a soft, porous, heat-resistant, the cave can be reached only
complex), built by Hacı Bektaş light white clay used with a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Veli (see p297) about 10 km to make elaborate The most
(6 miles) to the northwest carved tobacco impressive
of the town centre. pipes (see p364), remains are of
The main attraction of the which are popular the Temple of
valley is the monumental among visitors Zeus, built during the
tomb (5th or 6th century BC) to Turkey. The reign of Emperor Hadrian
of King Midas at Midasşehir, or Meerschaum (AD 117–138). There is a
Yazılıkaya. The tomb lies 65 km Museum Meerschaum crypt underneath the
(40 miles) south of Eskişehir (Lületaşı Müzesi) has pipe temple that is believed to
in a marvellous, open-air setting. displays of historic pipes have been the seat of the
The site is open from dawn to and old photos of the mines. cult of Cybele, the mother
dusk and you can wander freely You can watch carvers at work goddess of Anatolia.
here and in the small museum. on Sakarya Caddesi, and The scattered remains of a
Aslantaş, 35 km (22 miles) purchase pipes and other theatre, municipal gymnasium
north of Afyon, was a major decorative items made and stadium are visible today.
Phrygian cult centre. There are from meerschaum. These were envisaged on a
other Phrygian sites at Kümbet scale that would rival cities like
and Aslankaya, but the roads E Meerschaum Museum Ephesus or Pergamum. However,
here are unpaved and there Lületaşı Müzesi Aezani’s influence had begun to
are few visitors. İki Eylül Cad. Tel (0222) 233 05 82. wane by the 3rd century AD.
Open 10am–5pm daily. & In 1970, an earthquake
demolished much of the site.
9 Eskişehir Some fine mosaics of Phrygian
0 Kütahya
gods can be seen in the ruins of
* 872,650. £ from Istanbul
See pp262–3. the bathhouse and gymnasium.
and Ankara, (0222) 231 13 65.
@ (0222) 225 80 94. n Valilik Binası,
ground floor, (0222) 230 17 52.
_ International Yunus Emre Culture
and Fine Arts Week (6–10 May),
Meerschaum Festival (3rd week Sep).
( most days.
Commanding the main road

from Istanbul to Ankara,
Eskişehir (ancient Dorylaeum)
has prospered from trade for Remains of the well-preserved Temple of Zeus at Aezani
0 Kütahya
Kütahya’s earliest inhabitants were the Phrygians in the
7th century BC. Alexander the Great called the city Kotaeon
and used it as his headquarters as he advanced on Gordion
(see p251) in 332 BC. The Byzantines later occupied the
fortress on the acropolis hill until it fell to the Seljuks.
Kütahya’s golden age was under Sultan Selim I (the Grim;
1512–20), when ceramic craftsmen from Persia were settled The double-walled fortress, built by
here. In 1833, the breakaway ruler of Egypt, Paşa Muhammad the Ottomans
Ali, occupied Kütahya. In 1922, Greek forces were routed near
Kütahya-born historian and
here, marking a turning point in the War of Independence
traveller Evliya Çelebi (1811–82)
(see p62). Today, this is a peaceful and devout town and most wrote that it had 70 towers.
shops shut during prayer times on Fridays. The numerous One of the few remaining ones
splendid period houses hint at untapped tourist potential. has been extensively restored.
Most people come here for the
delightful revolving restaurant,
This house/museum complex Döner Gazino, at the top.
was the home of Hungarian
freedom fighter Lajos Kossuth Döner Gazino
(1802–94), who sought refuge Open dawn to dusk daily.
in Turkey after leading an
unsuccessful revolt to free his E Kütahya Tile Museum
homeland from the rule of the Kütahya Çini Müzesi
Habsburgs in 1848. Kossuth Gediz Cad. Tel (0274) 223 69 90.
and his family stayed here as Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov–
the guests of the Ottoman Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & 7
government in 1850–51, and Since 1999, the Tile Museum
the 19th-century stone-and- has been housed in a restored
The Dumlupınar monument, honouring wood house where they lived 15th-century soup kitchen
Turkish war dead has changed remarkably little (imaret) located behind the
since that time. Great Mosque (Ulu Cami). This is
Exploring Kütahya The statue of Kossuth in the one of Turkey’s most attractive
Almost all of the town’s sites can rose garden was erected in small museums. The displays
be seen on foot. Allow at least 1982, and Hungarians renew focus on tiles, vases, ewers
an afternoon to see the scores friendship ties here annually and decorative porcelainware
of mansions and town houses. on 5 April. The house is also produced in the town from the
Between the 15th and the referred to as “the House of 14th century to the present, and
17th centuries, Kütahya was the Hungarian Patriot”. are arranged around a typical
the rival of İznik (see pp164–5) in ornamental pool (şadırvan).
the painting and glazing of tiles + Fortress
and ceramics. By the early Kale U Great Mosque
20th century, the local ceramic Proceed up Gediz Cad from the Ulu Cami
industry had all but vanished. Kossuth House Museum. End of Cumhuriyet Cad, Börekciler
Now, Kütahya is again the focus The ruined fortress resembles Mahallesi. Open daily, except at prayer
of a revival of this skilled art. many other Ottoman-period times. & donation.
The town is acclaimed for citadels. Not much is known This is the biggest mosque
beautiful hand-painted ceramic about its history, but the in Kütahya, but not the oldest.
items, and workshops are found
in many of the back streets.
The Dumlupınar monument,
50 km (31 miles) south of the
town, is also worth visiting.
It commemorates the soldiers
who fell in the decisive battle
of the War of Independence.
P Kossuth House Museum

Kossuth Evi Müzesi
Macar Sokak (off Gediz Cad).
Tel (0274) 223 62 14. Open 9am–1pm
& 2–6pm Tue–Sun. & - Restored mosque soup kitchen, now housing the Kütahya Tile Museum
Building started under Sultan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Yıldırım Beyazıt early in the
15th century, but it was not Practical Information
finished until the time of * 250,000. n Hükümet, (0274)
Mehmet II (1451–81). Many 223 62 13. _ Dumlupınar Fair,
of the marble columns come Turkey’s largest handicraft fair
from Aezani (see p261). The (last 3 weeks of Jul); Culture and
Sakahanesi (watersellers’ square) Tourism Fair (mid Jul for 3 days).
( Wed and Sat on Belediye Sok
near the mosque is a popular
(central area). Local market (Thu)
local gathering place.
along Gediz Cad.
( Bazaars Transport
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat. £ İstasyon Cad, (0274) 223 61 21.
Kütahya’s bazaars occupy two @ Atatürk Bulvarı, (0274) 224
buildings. The Grand Market 33 00.
(Büyük Bedesten) was built Interior of the Great Mosque showing
in the 14th century and stands the women’s balcony
on Çemberciler Caddesi. century AD, found at Aezani
The 15th-century Small Market goods. More specialized in 1990. The displays also
(Küçük Bedesten) is just next traders overflow into the include fossils, Phrygian
to it on Kavafiye Sokak surrounding streets. terracotta toys, Roman glass
(Shoemaker’s Street). Don’t and sculptures and delicate
miss the vaulted ceilings. E Kütahya Archaeology earthenware figurines.
Today, the bazaars sell chiefly Museum
vegetables and second-hand Kütahya Arkeoloji Müzesi P Historic Kütahya
Gediz Cad, Börekciler Mahallesi. Manor Houses
Tel (0274) 223 62 13. Open Apr– Tarihi Kütahya Konakları
Oct: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov– The town’s spacious period
Mar: 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & houses date mainly from the
Adjoining the Great Mosque, 18th and 19th centuries. All are
the museum is housed in the derelict and so only the exteriors
mosque’s former seminary, can be seen. They usually have
the Vacidiye Medresesi, built three storeys, projecting
in 1314 by a local ruling clan. balconies and front and back
The museum was restored in entrances. Look near the Ulu Cami
1999, and its centrepiece is on Ahi Erbasan Sokak (in Gazi
Spices and pulses for sale outside the a stunningly beautiful Amazon Kemal Mahallesi) and Germiyan
Grand Market tomb dating from the 2nd Sokak for typical examples.
Kutahya Town
0 metres 250
Centre
0 yards 250
1 Kossuth House
Museum
2 Fortress
AD
3 Kütahya Tile Museum NA
N
D
4 Great Mosque MIT

A
HA
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KO
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N
ŞA
5 Bazaars
D
ESKİŞEHİR
DE CA 300m (330 yards)
CA
BA
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N
6 Kütahya Archaeology S
K
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LA
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BR
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HU A L
Museum SE
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7 Historic Kütahya ER PA
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ĞL C EN
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AT
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Manor Houses EY CAD LE

AD
M O L LAB
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BELEDİYE A B D U R R
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SUL
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Kütahya ET
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Fortress Tile Museum HU EHM
CUM
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D
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CA D ET
D ÜZ CA B UL
Great Mosque G ÜN ŞA
ASIM T PA
Bazaars FU A
U CAD
CAD Historic Kütahya

ĞI
T AŞK Ö P R
Kütahya Manor Houses

BA
SU L TA N Archaeology
Museum
Kossuth House
Museum
ÇAVDARHİSAR

THE BLACK SEA

A lthough it is the least visited part of Turkey,
the Black Sea region is one of the loveliest,
most scenic and culturally authentic areas of the
country. Take some time to explore the hidden treasures of
this diverse region, which include the beautiful ports of Amasra
and Sinop, the historic coastal city of Trabzon, and Safranbolu,
a gem of Ottoman architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Until the 1920s, the Black Sea coast was the coastal plain rises to lush tea and
strongly influenced by Greek culture. hazelnut plantations, virgin forests and
Its major city, Trabzon, was once capital the Pontic mountain ranges, which form
of a Byzantine state ruled by the Comnene an almost unbroken barrier. The peaks
family. The Genoese and Venetians were around Çamlıhemşin attract trekkers and
also active along the coast, as can be mountaineers from all over the world.
seen from the many ruined castles. A Black Sea sardine known as hamsi
For travellers with an interest in religion is the symbol of the region and the
and history, the region has many Christian nickname for its people. The locals are
sites to explore. Chief among these are generally down-to-earth and industrious.
Trabzon’s church of Haghia Sophia and Smallholdings are common, and many of
the Sumela Monastery, as well as the the owners have retained their Caucasian
Georgian churches and monasteries origins and traditions.
in the Artvin area. The region is poised for development:
This is Turkey’s wettest region, and in 2011 the Turkish Petroleum Corporation
the climate is moist and moderate even joined forces with Shell to develop beds of
in summer. From the coastal highway, untapped offshore oil and gas reserves.
The centre of Trabzon, around the historic castle

Alpine scenery behind Uzungöl (Long Lake) in Trabzon
Exploring the Black Sea

With its mild, damp climate, the Black Sea
region is suitable to visit all year round. The best
time to go is in springtime, when the mountain
valleys are carpeted with wild flowers. The high
peaks of the coastal mountains are known for
their luxuriant pine forests, alpine lakes and
racing rivers which descend to the coastal plain.
In the extreme northeast, the Kaçkar range is
the highest of the Pontic mountain chain, which
defines the region. These mountainous areas
receive heavy snowfalls in winter. Safranbolu
and Sumela Monastery are the outstanding
sights of the region. There are many villages
Picturesque Amasra, built on a rocky promontory
where locals still practise Ottoman-era crafts:
Devrek, for example, is renowned for
its decorative wooden canes.
İnebolu Abana Sinop

Cide
Ayancık
Gerze
AMASRA
r e D a l a r
Bartın K ü ı
Zonguldak Taşköprü
Bafra
Durağan
Boyabat
Ereğli SAFRANBOLU KASTAMONU
SAMSUN
Araç ak Altınkaya
Ir m
Akçakoca Karabük Barajı

Tosya ıl Vezirköprü
Ilgaz Da ı
Milli Parkı K ız
Düzce
Gerede Çerkeş Osmancık Havza
Ç
İstanbul Gerede ayı Merzifon Taşova
Bolu
Kızılcahamam Amasya
Ankara
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25
Sights at a Glance
1 Amasra
2 Safranbolu pp272–3
3 Kastamonu
4 Samsun
5 Trabzon pp274–5
6 Sumela Monastery p276
7 Zigana
8 Gümüşhane
9 Bayburt
0 Uzungöl
q Rize
w Hemşin Valley
e Hopa
r Artvin
t Yusufeli
Government House at Safranbolu
THE BLACK SEA 267
Getting Around
Renting a car, or even a four-wheel-drive
vehicle, is probably the best way to see
the Black Sea coast. This option offers
the flexibility to explore minor roads
and lanes. Take the central highway only
when necessary, or risk missing much
of what the region has to offer. Samsun
and Trabzon are both served by non-
stop flights from Istanbul and Ankara.
Intercity buses run daily, or more
frequently, to the major centres.
Otherwise, visitors must rely on local
minibuses, erratic dolmuşes or foot.
Take walking shoes and rain gear in any
season. Don’t expect to find the same
sophisticated, scheduled transport as Breathtaking Sumela Monastery
in other parts of Turkey. But if you are
adventurous and flexible, a Black Sea
journey will be highly rewarding.
B L A C K S E A Borçka
HOPA
Ardeşen
Terme
RIZE ARTVİN
Ünye TRABZON HEMŞİN
Ordu VALLEY
Giresun
ar
ı
Bulancak SUMELA
MONASTERY UZUNGÖL a l YUSUFELİ
Ca D
nik Gölköy Dereli r
Da ZİGANA a
ları çk
Ka İspir
GÜMÜŞHANE
Koyulhisar Erzurum
Reşadiye BAYBURT
Şebinkarahisar
Erzincan
Key
Motorway
Dual carriageway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
Haghia Sophia, a well-preserved Byzantine church in Trabzon

The small harbour at Amasra, with its Roman bridge and watch tower
1 Amasra U Fatih Mosque Indeed, the town’s name

* 8,200. @ Atatürk Meydanı. n
In the town centre. Open daily probably comes from Castra
(except during prayer times). Comneni (Latin for “camp of
Büyük Liman Cad, (0378) 315 12 19.
U İskele Mosque the Comnenes”).
The picturesque and tranquil On the harbour. Open daily The town fell under Ottoman
town of Amasra is located (except during prayer times). rule in 1459. During this era,
about 15 km (9 miles) from the region around Kastamonu
Bartın. In the 6th century BC, produced rice, iron, cotton
Amasra was called Sesamus, 2 Safranbolu fabrics and mohair, mostly for
and its inhabitants were known export. Kastamonu Castle was
See pp272–3.
as Megara. By the 9th century, built by the Byzantines in the
Amasra was of sufficient 12th century and was kept
importance to be designated 3 Kastamonu in good repair by the Seljuks
a bishopric. It was destroyed and Ottomans. Today, its
by Arab raiders, and then * 207,000. @ 10 min walk N of remains serve as a fire tower
rebuilt in the 12th century town centre. n Nasrullah Meydanı, and lookout point.
by the Genoese. (0366) 212 01 62. ( Wed & Sat. Displays at the Kastamonu
_ Atatürk Hat Festival (23–30 Aug),
They recognized the trading Ethnographic Museum
Garlic Festival (1st week Sep).
advantages that Amasra G near Daday at Çömlekciler.
include Byzantine and Greek
could give them and rented mementos and 17th-century
the castle and harbour from the Kastamonu is well known for agricultural tools. There is a
Byzantines. The two fortresses outdoor activities as well as for library on the first floor and
built by the Genoese during the crafts. The pastures of nearby a coin display. The building
14th century can still Daday offer some of itself is of historic importance,
be seen today. One the very finest for it was here on 25 August
overlooks the trail riding in 1925 that Atatürk delivered
main harbour all of Turkey. a famous speech forbidding
and the other – The local the wearing of the fez (the
no more than the women are old-fashioned conical felt hat).
remains of a small famed for The Archaeology
tower – sits at the hand-printed Museum displays finds
harbour mouth. tablecloths and from Byzantine and Ottoman
Amasra came under Carved wooden upholstery fabrics times, and has a room that
Ottoman rule in 1460. implements, Amasra made from cotton commemorates Atatürk’s
Interesting places and flax. Other 1925 visit to the town.
to see in the town include specialities of the area include The town’s main mosques
the Fatih Mosque, a former colourful knitted wool socks are the Atabey Mosque (uphill,
Byzantine church, and the and fruit jams. behind the Aşir Efendi Han
19th-century İskele Mosque. During the 11th century, shopping centre), with its
Some portions of the Byzantine Kastamonu was controlled by 40 wooden pillars and stone
city walls are still standing, as is the powerful Comnene family, door, and the İbni Meccar
a Roman bridge in the harbour. rulers of Trabzon (see pp274–5). Mosque, built in 1353 by
THE BLACK SEA 269
O Ilgaz Mountain National Park fine handwritten books and

Tel (0336) 212 58 71. hand-woven kilims.
Open all year. & for vehicles. About 80 km (50 miles) south-
west of Samsun in the Havza
district are a number of thermal
4 Samsun springs (kaplıca) that are popular.
* 840,000. n Yaşar Doğu Spor
Salonu, (0362) 431 12 28. £ from E Gazi Museum
Ankara to Atatürk Bulvarı, (0362) 445 15 Tel (0362) 431 75 35. Open 9am–noon
82. @ Yeni Garajlar 1, (0362) 238 11 70. & 1–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &
k direct from Ankara or Istanbul; 8 km
E Atatürk Museum
(5 miles) from Samsun on the Amasya
Tel (0362) 435 75 35.
road. g from Istanbul (30 hrs). _
Mahmut Bey Mosque, containing a Open 9am–noon & 1–5:30pm. &
Samsun Fair (Jul), Akdağı Annual Sum-
beautiful wooden interior
mer Migration Festival “Hıdrellez” (Jun E Archaeological and
or Jul depending on weather). ( Sat. Ethnographic Museum
the Çandaroğulları family. Cumhuriyet Meydanı. Tel (0362) 431 68
This lovely mosque in stone and Apart from producing a popular 28. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
wood is also known as Eli güzel cigarette brand, Samsun also Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
(“beautiful hand”). holds a proud place in Turkish
hearts as the place where
E Ethnographic Museum Atatürk came after his escape
Hepkebirler Mah, Sakarya Cad. from Istanbul on 19 May 1919,
Tel (0366) 214 01 49. Open 8am–5pm to draw up plans for a Turkish
Tue–Sun. & republic. Today, this anniversary
E Archaeology Museum is celebrated as a national
İsfendiyarbey Mahallesi, Cumhuriyet holiday, Youth and Sports Day.
Cad 6. Tel (0366) 214 10 70. Samsun has two museums
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & devoted to the revered memory
of Atatürk and his legacy. The
Environs Gazi Museum occupies a Men’s section at a thermal spring in
The Mahmut Bey Mosque is former hotel where he stayed in the Havza area
located some 17 km (10 miles) 1919 and the Atatürk Museum
northwest of Kastamonu in the has displays of his clothing, Environs
village of Kasaba. For a small various personal items and a Near Bafra, about 40 km
donation, the local imam (Muslim collection of photographs. (25 miles) northwest of Samsun,
priest) will open the mosque. The Archaeological and excavations at a site called
Inside the well-preserved Ethnographic Museum is a İkiztepe (or “Twin Hills”) have
building are some beautiful treasure-trove of antiquities from revealed early Hittite bronze
paintings and fine calligraphy. the surrounding villages. It has finds. The bronze items have
Cide, Abana and İnebolu Bronze Age artifacts as well been removed, but the site is
are all easy day trips from as ceramics, bronze and brass open and there is no entrance
Kastamonu. Cide is a pretty, implements, glass and mosaics fee. Hittite copper and bronze
unspoiled fishing village, and dating from the Hittite, Hellenic, artifacts have also been
Abana is renowned for its fish Roman and Byzantine eras. There uncovered at Dündartepe,
restaurants and good, clean is also some beautiful gold and 3 km (2 miles) outside Samsun,
swimming. İnebolu has some silver jewellery, as well as several where excavations continue.
well-preserved houses.
About 63 km (39 miles)
south of Kastamonu is Ilgaz
Mountain National Park,
reachable by dolmuş or your
own transport. Visitors to the
park can see bears, foxes and
deer. There is also a deer
breeding and research station.
This area offers excellent skiing
from November until March.
A culinary speciality here is
whole lamb, cooked tandır
style (in a wood-fired clay
oven) for four to five hours
until the meat falls off the bone.
The dish is traditionally eaten
with the fingers. Atatürk and aides, Atatürk Museum
View over the rooftops of UNESCO World Heritage-designated Safranbolu

2 Street-by-Street: Safranbolu
Safranbolu’s market area, a warren of narrow streets
and merchant shops, has many restored Ottoman
dwellings (see p35). Because of its important
architectural heritage, Safranbolu has been declared
a World Heritage Site. In Ottoman times, the town
lay on a major trade route. Its many handsome
three-storey, stone-and-timber konaks (mansions)
were erected by wealthy merchants and craftsmen.
Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Mosque
In summer they lived in the cool Bağlar district, and in The mosque, located
winter they moved down to the more sheltered Çarşı near the massive Cinci
(bazaar) quarter around the Kazdağlıoğlu Mosque. Hanı, opened for
worship in 1661.
NI
HA
İ
NC
Kastamonu Cİ
. Cinci Hanı
The 350-year-old Cinci Hanı,
a refuge for travelling merchants ŞEK
ERC
and now a hotel, gives a good I SO
K AK
idea of the scale of commerce
centuries ago.
AK
OK
ŞI S
The Covered Way was

CAR
formerly used by cobblers

and shoemakers.
ARI
YUK
Cinci Hamamı is a
17th-century Turkish
bath still in use today.
A
T
S
A
R
A
Kiranköy
0 metres 40
0 yards 40
. Kazdağlıoğlu Mosque
Located in the main Key
square, the mosque
was built in 1779. Suggested route
THE BLACK SEA 273
Sundial
An interesting sundial
occupies the shady
courtyard of the Köprülü * 23,500.
Mehmet Paşa Mosque.
Tel (0370) 712 38 63.
n Arasta Çarşısı 7. ( Sat.
∑ safranbolu.gov.tr
Transport
@ 10 km (6 miles) SW of town
centre in Karabük. £ in Karabük.
Shoemakers’ Street
The name of this street
recalls a local craft.
During World War I the
town made boots for
the Ottoman army.
Grain
Market
KUNDURACILAR SOKAK ESKI HAM

A M S
OK
AK
CE
BI
Cİ
SO
KA
Macunlar Mansion
K
The upper storey of

Macunlar Mansion
shows typical
wooden shutters
and stencilled wall
decorations made
with natural dyes.
K
KA
SO M
A
A ST Ü
TE
AR Ü
SO
SO
K AK KA
K
SO
The Tourism
Information Office
A restored original
Ottoman house,
built in the style that
Safranbolu is famous Market Street
for, houses the tourist Restored konaks line the narrow
office, located in the Arasta Sokak (Market Street).
Arasta (market) area. Some of these old houses have
been turned into atmospheric
guesthouses, complete with
authentic decor and furniture.
5 Trabzon
The earliest evidence of civilization in Trabzon
dates from 7000 BC. Established as a Greek colony
(with Amasra and Sinop), the town, then known
as Trebizond, benefited from its position on the
busy trade route between the Black Sea and
the Mediterranean. It grew quickly and was a
focal point for the Pontic kings.
At the beginning of the 13th century, the
Comnene dynasty established a Byzantine state
Trabzon Castle, established in the 5th century BC
with its capital at Trabzon. During the Comnene
era, the city gained a reputation as a beautiful, the castle walls remain, but the
sophisticated cultural centre. The Genoese and area originally had three distinct
the Venetians came here to trade, as Trabzon was wards, each with its own
the terminus of a northern branch of the Silk Route. mosque. The only one still
standing is the Fatih Camii in the
In 1461, Trabzon fell under Ottoman rule.
Ortahisar (middle castle) section.
Before it became a mosque, this
E Haghia Sophia are perfectly visible, while the was the principal church of the
Aya Sofya faded ones in the nave are Comnene dynasty and its dome
Follow İnönü Cad. Open dawn–dusk hidden behind a screen. was topped with gold. Sadly,
(avoid prayer times if possible). & the gold, like the mosaics and
-= R St Anne’s Church frescoes inside, is long gone.
This restored 13th-century Küçük Ayvasıl Kilisesi
Byzantine church, situated just Kahraman Maraş Cad. P Zağnos Bridge and Tower
a kilometre from the city centre, An Armenian church built in the Zağnos Köprüsü ve Kale Kule
is by far the most impressive 9th century, St Anne’s has a beau- Zağnos Cad.
sight in Trabzon. It was originally tiful exterior and the entrance Built in 1467, the Zağnos
built by the Comnene emperor, is adorned with crucifixes and Bridge crosses the Kuzgun
Manuel VII Palaeologus. In 1577, angels. With advance notice to ravine. In Ottoman times,
it reverted to a mosque and, after the tourism office, groups are the bridge provided access
serving as an ammunition depot allowed inside to view the to charitable institutions.
and also as a hospital, became a interior. Another Armenian The Zağnos Tower was formerly
museum in 1957. In 2013, the church, St Basil’s (Büyük Ayvasil), a much-feared prison. Today,
museum was controversially is also located nearby. there is little reminder of its
reconsecrated as a mosque. grim past, and visitors can tour
The patterned mosaics here P Trabzon Castle the site and enjoy a meal at
date from Byzantine times, and Trabzon Kalesi the tower restaurant.
you can still see the original İç Kale Sok.
coloured marble covering of the The castle is located on the flat- U Gülbahar Mosque
floor. Restoration work on the topped hill (trapezus in Greek) and Tomb
old frescoes is intermittent. that gave Trabzon its name. Gülbahar Hatun Camii
The best frescoes, in the narthex, Today, only a small portion of Tanjant Yolu.
Open except during prayer times.
Built in 1514 by Sultan Selim the
Grim in memory of his mother,
Gülbahar, this is one of the few
mosques in the city that was not
originally a church. Gülbahar
was noted for her charity work,
and the mosque was built as
part of an imaret, an Ottoman
social welfare institution
consisting of a soup kitchen
and hostel for students and the
poor. The main place of worship
was the black-and-white stone
section, with its five cupolas.
The mosque is all that remains
of the complex. Just to the east
Fresco in Haghia Sophia, showing Jesus turning water into wine at Galilee is Gülbahar’s octagonal tomb.
THE BLACK SEA 275
E Trabzon Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Uzun Sok, Zeytinlik Cad 10.
Tel (0462) 322 38 22. Open Apr– Practical Information
Oct: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov– * 763,000. n İskenderpaşa
Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & Mahallesi, Ali Naki Effendi Sok 1/A,
Trabzon Museum occupies a (0462) 326 47 60. _ Hıdrellez
mansion built in the late 19th Summer Migration Festival
century for a Greek banker. (6 May). ( daily.
The finely restored house is Transport
decorated in Baroque style k 8 km (5 miles) from city
and contains displays of local centre, (0462) 325 99 52.
archaeology and ethnography. @ Değirmendere, 3 km (2 miles)
from city centre, (0462) 325 23 43.
Environs g from Istanbul and Rize.
A few kilometres outside the
centre of the city is Atatürk’s Villa,
an ornate three-storey mansion
where Atatürk stayed several times
after 1924. It was here that he
made his will in 1937, the year
before his death. The house was
St Eugenius Church, turned into a mosque built in 1903, and is a typical
in 1461 example of upper-class Crimean
archi-tecture. The city of Trabzon
R St Eugenius Church presented it to Atatürk, and he left
Yeni Cuma Camii it to his sister, Makbule Atakan,
Follow signs from Fatih Hamamı at his death. The interior has
on Kasım Sok. Open 9am–5pm. been left almost undisturbed.
In the 14th century, this was
P Atatürk’s Villa
the Church of St Eugenius, Atatürk Köşkü
named for the martyred Soğuksu Cad, 4 km (2.4 miles) SW of
5th-century archbishop of city centre. Tel (0462) 231 00 28.
Carthage. In Ottoman times, Open 8:30am–4:30pm daily. Atatürk’s Villa, a handsome early
the church became a mosque. 8 on inquiry at the entrance. & 20th-century mansion
Trabzon City Centre 5 Gülbahar Mosque and Tomb
1 Haghia Sophia 6 St Eugenius Church
2 St Anne’s Church 7 Trabzon Museum
3 Trabzon Castle
4 Zağnos Bridge and Tower
Black Sea
Sekiz Direkli SAHİL YOLU (HIGHW

AY O10)
CU M H U R İ Y E T C A D
Hamam
G A Z İ P AŞ A C A D
Çarşı
Camii
Haghia Sofia
K U N D URAC
1km (0.6 mile) IL A R
CAD KA H R A M AN CAD
K A H R A M A N M A RAŞ MAR A
Ş CAD
S I R A MA Ğ AZA
L A R CA D
St Anne’s
UZ U N İskender Paşa
Church SOK
Camii
Zağnos Trabzon
Ortahisar Museum
K
Tower Camii Tabakhane SO

ZAĞNOS C
AD Bridge SIM YOLU
KA ANT
T AN I
D
CA
Zağnos Bus station

D
Gülbahar Trabzon
CA
U
Bridge Fatih BO
KS
Mosque Castle TZ
EP
ALE
ĞU
and Tomb Hamamı E

C
si
SO
İC KALE SOK
İC K
gun De r e si
a n e Dere
AD
Atatürk’s
Villa
akh
K uz
T ab
Byzantine St Eugenius
Palace (ruins) Church
0 metres 300
0 yards 300

6 Sumela Monastery VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sümela Manastırı Practical Information
Sumela Monastery sits high up on the cliffs of Mount Mela, 55 km (34 miles) SE of Trabzon
south of Trabzon. It was founded in the 4th century by two in Altındere National Park.
Tel (0462) 230 19 66 (lower
Greek monks, Barnabas and Sophronius, who were guided
entrance) and (0462) 531 10 64
to the site by an icon of a “black” image of the Virgin, (upper entrance).
allegedly painted by St Luke. After their deaths, Sumela Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm
became a place of pilgrimage. It was decorated with daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily.
&-=
frescoes, and its treasures included priceless manuscripts
and silver plates. The monastery was rebuilt several
times – the ruins seen by today’s visitors date
. Frescoes
largely from the 19th century. Though badly
In the Ottoman era, Sumela enjoyed the damaged by
protection of the sultans, but it was abandoned vandals, lovely
fresco panels
and badly damaged during the War of
cover the walls
Independence. Extensive restoration work has of the church.
been carried out to preserve the monastery.
. Living Quarters
The cells used by the
Greek Orthodox monks
are ranged along the
five-storey outside
building overlooking
the Altındere valley.
Restoration
A fire in the 1920s left many
of the monastery buildings
roofless and exposed to the
Forest Path
elements. Restoration work
A 1 km (0.5 mile) path
involves rebuilding the roof
winds through pine
trusses and adding tiles.
forest to the often mist-
shrouded monastery.
It takes 30 minutes to
make the ascent.
THE BLACK SEA 277
7 Zigana
_ Kadırga Festival: migration to high
pastures and nomadic origins (usually
held in spring and summer).
After visiting the Sumela

Monastery, travellers can
return to Trabzon or continue
further southwest to reach
the spectacular alpine area
known as Zigana and situated
in the Kalkanlı Mountains.
There is some skiing here,
but only day trips are possible
as there are no hotels.
Fog and snow cover the
Zigana area for about seven
months of the year, and it is
usually damp here. Heavy
winter snowfalls make access
difficult and even dangerous.
To get to Zigana, you can
drive through the 1,500 m
(4,291 ft) mountain tunnel,
the longest in Turkey. The Çoruh River, running through the fortress town of Bayburt
A more challenging, but
much more scenic, route runs for Gümüşhane occupied there were 300 houses within
parallel to the main 885 road a strategic position on the the complex. Provision for daily
through Hamsiköy village. It is trade route between Anatolia needs included a bakery and
worth stopping here to sample and Persia (Iran). flour mill. The community
the excellent local cuisine. Here, visitors can explore the even produced its own paint.
The speciality is a nourishing, surrounding castles, and several Today, visitors can see a
creamy rice pudding. mosques. The most interesting theological school, a mosque,
of these is the Süleymaniye (or hamams and kitchens, as well
Küçük) Camii. There are also as a dervish lodge.
8 Gümüşhane eight hamams (Turkish The eastern corner
* 70,000. n Valilik Binası, Kat 4, baths), which cater for contains the
(0456) 213 10 07. men and women. remains of a
Gümüşhane is church built
Gümüşhane (silver works) takes renowned for its between the 8th
its name from the rich deposits rosehip (kuşburun) and 14th centuries.
of silver ore found here. In the syrup and sweet About 20 km
late 16th century, silver was more cherry jam (kiraz reçeli). Wild poppy (12 miles) northwest of
valuable than gold. However, by near Bayburt Bayburt are the remains
the late 19th century, the silver of underground cities
industry had declined. 9 Bayburt dating from Byzantine times.
Before World War I, the area These are usually open to
* 38,000. n Hükümet Binası,
was a focus of conflict between visitors. For details, inquire at
Kat 4, (0458) 211 44 29. ( Mon.
the Russians and the Ottomans, _ Dedekorkut Cultural Festival the tea garden at the entrance
(2nd week in Jul). or at the tourism office in the
town centre.
Situated on the Çoruh River, Outside Bayburt, on
Bayburt is the capital of the way to Aşkale and Erzurum,
the smallest of Turkey’s 78 travellers must negotiate a
provinces. Bayburt Castle was spectacular mountain pass
probably built in Byzantine which rises to the dizzying
times, but there is evidence height of 2,302 m (7,552 ft).
of an older fortress on the site. Around 45 km (28 miles)
The castle has a violent from Bayburt is the startlingly
history. It had to be rebuilt by modern Baksi Museum
the Byzantine Emperor Justinian (www.en.baksi.org), which
and was repaired by both displays a selection of
A ruined Byzantine church in the old Seljuks and Ottomans following contemporary art exhibitions
section of Gümüşhane various attacks. At its peak, and ethnographic displays.
w Hemşin Valley
42 km (26 miles) E of Rize.
East of Rize, the road turns off to

the Hemşin Valley. About 20 km
(12 miles) further east a second
turning goes to Çamlıhemşin.
The road rises steeply and
the air is filled with the smell
of boxwood trees. This area
lies deep within the Kaçkar
Mountains (Kaçkar Dağları), at
an altitude of 3,932 m (12,900 ft).
Continue on the same road
Village on the shores of Uzungöl (Long Lake) signposted to Ayder, famous
for its hot springs. The local
0 Uzungöl Today, many of Turkey’s master inhabitants, the Hemşin,
@ tour bus from Trabzon or dolmuş
pastry chefs and bakers were once Christian Armenians
from Of (90 min); dolmuşes are less come from Rize. who converted to Islam.
frequent in the winter months. Visitors will notice many locals They delight in their seasonal
clad in the versatile Rize bezi, festivals, folklore traditions and
For mountain scenery, few a light cloth made of silk, distinctive ethnic costumes.
places in Turkey compare with cotton or wool, in black A staple food of
this alpine lake, which was carved and purple. It is the valley is mıhlama
out during the Ice Ages. At an mainly used as a (corn bread), that
altitude of over 1,000 m (3,280 ft), head covering for is served hot from
Uzungöl (Long Lake) is a hidden women, but also the baking pan.
gem surrounded by lush doubles as a useful Sometimes, lor
greenery and remote meadows. rain bonnet and a (white, unsalted
At weekends, Uzungöl is handy receptacle cheese) is served
popular with local people, who when the local alongside mıhlama
journey here by dolmuş from women go out to as a breakfast dish.
the coastal village, Of, but there gather tea leaves. Corn bread, There are two castles
is not much to do besides The small Rize Hemşin Valley near Çamlıhemşin.
camping, hiking in the nearby Museum is not One is Kale-i Bala,
hills, fishing and relaxing. The outstanding, but has some above the village of Hisarcık
village has a few basic hotels, and displays of local life and lore. Köyü, dating from 200 BC.
the local lake trout is excellent. Further up the valley is the
E Rize Museum lonely Zilkalesi (Bell Castle)
Piri Çelebi Mahellesi, PTT Arkası. with eight ramparts over-
q Rize Tel (0464) 214 02 35. Open 9am– looking the valley of the
noon & 1–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & Storm River (Fırtına Çayı).
* 104,000. @ 0.8 km (0.5 mile) west
of town. n Valilik Binası, A Blok, Kat 5,
(0464) 213 04 07. ( Russian bazaar
Turkish Tea
daily. _ Tea Festival (3rd week Jun).
Turkey’s first tea plants were brought from Japan in 1878, but
In ancient times, Rize was ruled the industry did not take off until the 1930s. The moist climate of
by the Pontic kings (see p302) the Black Sea coast provides superb growing conditions. Rize is the
and was known as Rhizus. centre of the Turkish tea industry, and the home of the country’s
The name means "rice", Tea Institute (Çay Enstitüsü).
although the town is now To sample the best tea, look for
better known for its tea. tomurcuk (the flowering bud of the tea
Rize was strongly fortified bush). Leaves from other parts of the
by the Byzantines in the plant are not as flavourful. Turks prefer
6th century and later became the black tea sold in local markets; green
tea is exported. Specialized fragrant
part of the Comnene empire.
teas are also produced, again
Like Trabzon, it came under mostly for export.
Ottoman control in 1461. Glasses, spoons, sugar and
In Ottoman times, many some good company are all part
people left Rize to seek work of enjoying Turkish tea, which is
in Russia. There they learned the brewed in a double boiler. The
art of bread- and pastry-making, leaves are scalded before brewing Turkish tea served in a
which they brought back with to impart an earthy, smoky flavour. typical “tulip” glass
them when they returned.
THE BLACK SEA 279
Roads and driving in general

are a challenge in the Hemşin
Valley’s short summer season.
A four-wheel-drive vehicle is
recommended, as local
dolmuş transport can be
daily, not hourly.
Because of the vertical valleys,
local people have devised an
ingenious transport solution:
the vargel, a cable car on a
pulley system. It is powered
by electricity (or people power,
if no electricity is available).
It is a quaint solution, which Bulls fighting at the Kafkasör Festival in Artvin
offers a bird’s-eye view of the
isolated gorges. featuring the spectacle of t Yusufeli
fighting bulls.
68 km (42 miles) S of Artvin or 150 km
Around Artvin are a number of
(93 miles) NE of Bayburt (difficult
beautiful villages. Şavşat, about route). * 4,000.
55 km (34 miles) to the east on
the road to Ardahan, is a lovely Yusufeli is a nature lover’s
alpine hamlet. The road goes on paradise, with some of the most
to Veliköy and, 19 km (11 miles) rugged scenery in Turkey. As it is
further on, reaches the Karagöl- a designated conservation area,
Sahara National Park, which hunting is strictly controlled and
has extensive forests and lakes. many wild species are protected.
Yusufeli is becoming well
Environs known for whitewater rafting
A series of fifteen dams have (see p372) on the challenging
Russian dolls for sale in Hopa, near the been built or are under Çoruh River. The best time to
Georgian border construction in the mountains go is in spring when the wild
around Artvin and Yusufeli flowers are in bloom. There are
e Hopa as part of the Çoruh River outstanding opportunities for
Development Plan. The largest photography, particularly
@ on W bank of river.
are near Yusufeli, and will be around the deep, icy lakes.
Hopa is the last main town completed in 2018. The dams Around Yusufeli, there are
before the frontier with Georgia. will generate power for the many Georgian and Armenian
It is a garrison town, and there region, but many are critical as churches and out-of-the
is a strong military presence. construction work has destroyed way castles. Dört Kilise (Four
Hopa was a major port in ancient parts of the local environment Churches) is a few kilometres
times, and is still the main and threatened the survival of southwest of the town, while
seaport (after Trabzon) on the native plants and animals. İşhan is a superb 11th-century
eastern Black Sea coast. Today, church in the mountains east
the town is dominated by the O Karagöl-Sahara National Park of Yusufeli off the main road
boat-building industry and a Tel (0466) 531 21 37. Open May–Oct: (signposted to Olur). A track
large thermal power station. daily. & for cars only. Δ leads to the church.
r Artvin
* 25,000. n Katliotopark Binası,
Kat 3, (0466) 212 30 71. _ Kafkasör
Festival (Jun). ∑ artvin.gov.tr
Artvin receives more rain than

any other place in Turkey, so
everything grows wonderfully
here. The people of Artvin are
known for their many festivals,
which feature traditional dancing,
games, music, food and
costumes. The major annual
celebration is the Kafkasör
(Caucasian) Festival in June, The churning waters of the spectacular Çoruh River
CAPPADOCIA AND
CENTRAL ANATOLIA
Central Anatolia is one of Turkey’s few completely
landlocked regions. The ancient cities of Boğazkale
and Alacahöyük reveal the Hittite presence in this
area during the 1st and 2nd millennia BC. Most of
the artifacts from these places are now housed in
museums, but visitors can imagine the impact and extent
of the impressive civilization that once flourished in the region.
In the ancient Persian language, Over the centuries, Central Anatolia

Cappadocia meant “land of beautful has nurtured vast armies and great
horses”, and in Roman times, brood empires, and its history and prosperity
mares from Cappadocia were so have always been linked to the land and
highly prized that a special tax was agriculture. Today, tourism has become
imposed on their sale. the mainstay of the local economy,
Trying to describe Cappadocia in but the region still produces many of
physical terms simply does not do justice Turkey’s cereal crops as well as grapes,
to the air of mystery that pervades the area. vegetable oils and sugar beets. The diary
Remarkable conical rock outcrops, called of a 4th-century saint even records
peri bacaları (fairy chimneys), are the wine as a local product.
region’s most famous and characteristic Kayseri, the major city, is known as
feature. Carved into the rock are scores much for its many varieties of pastırma
of hidden chapels adorned with exquisite (cured beef ) as for its industrious but
frescoes – ample proof of the strength conservative inhabitants. A gentler side
of the Christian faith that was established of the region is to be found near Amasya
here by the 4th century AD. along the picturesque Yeşilırmak River.
Konaks (mansion houses) along the bank of the Yeşilırmak River

Dwellings carved into the rocks in Güzelyurt, Cappadocia
Exploring Cappadocia and Central Anatolia

The majestic jewel of Central Anatolia is the
Cappadocia region, a bewitching landscape
of spectacularly eroded tuff (hardened volcanic
ash). Mount Erciyes (Erciyes Dağı), an extinct
volcano, looms over this haunting panorama.
Volcanic deposits have made this a fertile area
for agriculture, with grapes, apricots, cherries,
sugar beets and chickpeas grown locally.
The main Hittite sites in Asia Minor are
found at Boğazkale and Alacahöyük. Often Uçhisar village, overlooked by cave dwellings
neglected, Kayseri is a treasure-trove of Seljuk
history and should not be missed. The Pontic
kings (see p52) once ruled in Amasya, an Kastamonu
unspoiled town in the valley of the Yeşilırmak Çankırı
River. The region’s varied sights complement ÇORUM
the country crafts, such as carpet weaving
and the beautiful decorative pottery
produced around Avanos. ALACAHÖYÜK
l i c e Çayı
Alaca
Kalecik Sungurlu
De
Ankara Büyükyağli BOĞAZKALE
YOZGAT
Kırıkkale
Çamlık
Keskin Milli Parkı
Yerköy
Çiçekdaği
Şefaatli
Kaman
KIRŞEHİR Kozaklı
Hirfanlı
Barajı Kı z Mucur
ıl
Irm
ak
Şereflikoçhisar
HACI BEKTAŞ
Hot-air balloon drifting over the eroded tuff landscape Ortaköy GÖREME
Tuz OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
Gölü Ürgüp
NEVŞEHİR
MUSTAFAPAŞA
AKSARAY Derinkuyu
Sultanhanı
Sights at a Glance SOĞANLI
1 Nevşehir
Ob IHLARA VALLEY GÜZELYURT
q Aksaray ru
k Hasan Dağı
2 Göreme Open-Air w Kırşehir Ya
yla 3268m
Museum pp288–9 e Hacı Bektaş sı
NIĞDE
3 Mustafapaşa r Yozgat
4 Kayseri pp294–5 t Boğazkale pp300–1 Bor
5 Bünyan y Alacahöyük Pozanti Dağı
2689m
Kemerhisar
6 Mount Erciyes u Çorum
7 Soğanlı i Amasya pp302–3
8 Niğde o Tokat
9 Güzelyurt p Sivas Ulukışla
0 Ihlara Valley Adana

C A P PA D O C I A A N D C E N T R A L A N AT O L I A 283
Key
Major road
Dual carriageway
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
The King’s Gate at Boğazkale, in Hattuşaş National Park Summit
Samsun
Getting Around
Kayseri and Nevşehir are both
AMASYA served by intercity buses, as well as
Niksar
Mecitözü regular flights to and from Istanbul
ı and a few other Turkish cities. Most
Da
lar of the main sights are a 40–60-
Kırk Turhal
Zile minute drive on good paved roads
TOKAT
from these centres. Minibuses and
Bazlamaç rı dolmuşes run frequently between
la major tourist attractions, but
a
c i D Artova
Deve renting your own vehicle will give
Çekerek
Sulusaray
you the greatest flexibility. Some
Yıldızeli
sights (even the underground
Sorgun cities) involve quite a bit of walking.
Direkli
Coach tours from centres through-
SIVAS
out Turkey serve the region.
ı
Akdağmadeni
l ar
a
Sarıkaya D
Ak Hanli Ulaş
ak
Çayıralan Irm rı
zıl
la
Kı Şarkışla
Boğazlıyan
Da
Tahtali
ç
ma
Malakköy
Kull
0 kilometres 50
Kültepe BÜNYAN
0 miles 25
KAYSERİ Pınarbaşı
Gürün
MOUNT ERCİYES
Yeşilhisar Develi
Yay Gölü Tufanbeyli

Hüseyinli
Sultansazlığı
Milli Parkı
Saraycik
Yahyalı Göksun
Saimbeyli
ı
Tahtafırlatan Dağı
lar
2495m
a
Feke
Ala D
Kahramanmaraş
The Blue Seminary (Gök Medresesi) in Amasya

Rock Formations of Cappadocia

The landscape of Cappadocia was created around 30 million KIRŞEHİR
G
ör 260
em
years ago, when erupting volcanoes blanketed the region e Va
l l e y Hacibektaş
with ash. The ash solidified into an easily eroded material Avanos
called tuff, overlain in places by layers of hard volcanic Nevşehir Göreme
Ürgüp
rock. Over time, the tuff was worn away, creating distinctive Aksaray
300
Kaymakli
Underground City 76
formations, including the capped-cone “fairy chimneys” 7
E90
Derinkuyu
750
near Ürgüp. Cappadocia covers a relatively small area – Underground City
Mount
5
around 300 sq km (116 sq miles). It has become a popular
80
Hasan
Niğde
area for tourists, and the area around Nevşehir, together Locator Map
with nearby Ürgüp and Göreme (see pp286–7), offer the Tuff Formation
best opportunities to see the bewitching natural formations
for which the region is celebrated. Cavities below the
hard layer are turned
Erosion and Weathering into dwellings.
Cappadocia’s extraordinary landscape is partly

the result of erosion by water, wind and
changes in temperature. Rainfall and
rivers wear down the tuff and, like the
wind, carry away loose material.
In winter, extreme temperature
changes cause the rocks
to expand and contract
Mushroom Shape and eventually
This “mushroom” rock, to disintegrate.
an unusual example
of erosion, is located
near Gülşehir.
Fairy Chimneys
The extraordinary formations
pictured below are called “fairy
chimneys” because early inhabitants
of Cappadocia believed that they
were the chimneys of fairies, who lived
under the ground. Some of them
reach heights of up to 40 m (130 ft).
Complete erosion
wears away the
protective caps and
creates the conical
shapes found in
the Göreme Valley.
Elongated Shape These columns Pedestal Shape Created Cone Shape Erosion thins
are capped with layers of slightly when a lump of basalt rests tuff beneath the basalt cap,
harder material. atop a tuff column. which then falls off.
Eroded Tuff Field

In the triangle defined by
Nevşehir, Ürgüp and Avanos,
the tuff layer was originally
up to 100 m (328 ft) thick.
As the older tuff continues
to erode, younger cones are
formed. This process has
been taking place for
around 10 million years.
Lava flows harden into a

protective layer over the tuff.
Erosion widens cracks and

fissures, separating sections
from the main body and
allowing for the development
of strange shapes.
Volcanoes of Anatolia
Underground cities
Cracks in the tuff layers

allowed people to
hollow out dwellings
and churches.
Protective caps
give a tubular
shape to the Snowcapped Mount Erciyes, 20 km
eroded formation. (13 miles) southwest of Kayseri
Volcanic activity in Central Anatolia

is a product of the region’s position
(see pp22–3) at the boundaries
of two of the tectonic plates that
make up the Earth’s crust. Mount
Erciyes is the largest in a chain of
extinct volcanoes created by the
collision of the heavy Arabian
with the lighter Anatolian Plate.
The collision pushed magma to
the surface, building up immense
pressure and eventually causing
Mounts Erciyes, Hasan and others
to erupt, spewing forth enormous
amounts of rock and lava that
Underground Cities greatly altered the landscape
The softness of the tuff made it easy to excavate in order of Central Anatolia. The Hittites
to create dwellings. In some places, as at Derinkuyu (above), (see pp48–9) worshipped snow-
whole cities were constructed underground. These covered Mount Erciyes. They called
settlements had living quarters, stables, wells, ventilation it “Harkassos” (White Mountain).
systems, churches and storage rooms.
1 Nevşehir
As the capital of Cappadocia, Nevşehir makes a very good
starting point for touring the region. Known as Nyssa in
antiquity, the town has the Kurşunlu Mosque and medrese
(see p36), dating from 1725, as well as a castle and a good
museum. The surrounding tuff formations and troglodyte
(underground) cities are the most popular attractions, but
visitors are likely to leave the Nevşehir area with strong
memories of sunflowers, chickpeas, donkeys and sugar beets,
as well as apricots drying on rooftops. Christianity has a long
history in the Nevşehir region, with monks and hermits Passageway in Derinkuyu, showing
inhabiting Cappadocia as early as the 4th century. “millstone” door
Zelve featuring ornate carvings. anyone who tries to backtrack

10 km (6.2 miles) NE of Nevşehir. The latter is an Ottoman mosque, will be very unpopular.
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily; but with a stone steeple. The first levels include a stable,
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & winepress and a large vault.
A secluded monastic retreat, Derinkuyu Deeper down, there are living
Zelve lies in a series of deep 30 km (18.6 miles) S of Nevşehir. quarters, a kitchen and a church.
valleys and is dotted with rooms Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily; The heavy millstones recessed
and caves on many levels. Metal Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & into the walls were, in fact, doors
walkways and stairs lead to less There are believed to be about that could be rolled into place
accessible chapels and hide- 36 underground cities in this to seal off strategic areas of the
aways which hold a few region, but only a few have settlement. Huge ventilation
frescoes. In 1950 an earthquake been excavated. Of these, shafts still function, but damp
shook the Çavuşın/Zelve area, Derinkuyu (deep well) is the is a problem. Living here for any
and the cave dwellings remain biggest, most popular and best extended period of time could
somewhat unkempt today. lit. It is thought to have been not have been easy.
The nature of the site will appeal home to around 20,000 people.
to the fit and adventurous. Many The eight-level complex is 60 m Ürgüp
of the caves and rooms are only (197 ft) deep. A long “transit” 12 km (7 miles) E of Nevşehir.
accessed by clambering through tunnel was supposed to have * 18,000. n Parkı İçi, (0384) 341
dark holes and tunnels, so bring linked Derinkuyu with a similar 40 59. _ Wine and Grape Festival
a torch and spare batteries. “ant hill” settlement at Kaymaklı, (end Sep, early Oct).
Two small churches lie on the about 10 km (6 miles) away. Ürgüp is now so synonymous
valley floor: the Üzümlü Kilise At peak times (11am–3pm) with the troglodyte cities built
(Grape Church) and the Balık the tunnels can get somewhat during Byzantine times that it is
Kilise (Fish Church), both uncomfortably crowded – easy to overlook the town’s
Spread over three valleys and with many fairy chimneys, Zelve was inhabited until 1952
* 162,000. n in front of the
State Hospital, (0384) 212 95 73.
_ Cappadocia Mountain
Biking Festival (1st week Jul).
Transport
k Kapadokya, (0384) 421 44 50.
@ Gülşehir Cad, Nevtur,
(0384) 213 11 71 and 213 12 29.
Göreme Tur, (0384) 213 55 37
and 213 47 09.
House in Ürgüp dating from the period of Greek habitation
Roman and Seljuk history. In Roman times, Avanos was traders making the long trek
Ürgüp’s ancient name was called Venessa. It fell under along the Silk Route (see pp28–9).
Assiana, and it was known Ottoman suzerainty in 1466 It also hosts atmospheric
as Başhisar under the Seljuks. along with Nevşehir. Today it is Whirling Dervish shows.
Seljuk influence can be seen a typical country town, albeit
in the 13th-century remains with a lack of grand mosques Kaymaklı
of the Kadıkalesi (castle) and or medreses. In the town centre 20 km (12 miles) S of Nevşehir.
the Altıkapı Tomb. Near the is the Yeraltı (Ulu) Mosque, Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily;
Nükrettin Mausoleum is a dating from the 15th century, Nov–Mar: 6am–5pm daily. &
library named after Tasinağa, and the Alaeddin Mosque, Discovered in 1964, Kaymaklı is
a 19th-century town squire. built by the Seljuks. the second most important
Until 1923, when Turkey Ceramics and wine are the underground city in the region.
became a republic, the town town’s lifeblood. Visitors can It is believed to have housed
had a large Greek population. purchase many serviceable thousands of people from the
Ürgüp’s museum contains pottery items, while exquisite 6th to 9th centuries. Although
ceramics and statues from pre- porcelain designs are the stock in five levels are open to visitors,
historic to Byzantine times, as trade of places like Kaya Seramik experts believe Kaymaklı has
well as displays of textiles, Evi. These pieces are thrown by eight levels. The underground
costumes, weapons and books. hand, then painted and glazed. area is thought to cover an area
Ürgüp is a convenient base The intricate designs are pains- of about 2.5 sq km (1 sq mile).
to tour Cappadocia. There are takingly reproduced from the Being smaller and less
plenty of pensions and hotels, yet İznik originals (see p165). crowded than many of the
the town has retained its village About 5 km (3 miles) east of region’s other underground
charm. This area has always been Avanos is Sarıhan, a Seljuk han cities, the rooms and their
well-known for its farm produce, or kervansaray (see p28) built in various functions seem more
particularly for grapes. Ürgüp- 1238 on the classic square plan. convincing. It is advisable to
labelled wine is refreshing and The repaired han gives a good arrive there early.
light. In general, the white idea of the accommodation
wines are more authentic facilities, as well as stables and Göreme
and interesting than the reds. a small mosque, available to 10 km (6 miles) NE of Nevşehir.
Several local spots offer * 1,100. n Next to the bus station,
impromptu entertainment (0384) 271 25 58.
in the evenings. At the heart of northern
Cappadocia’s fairytale landscape,
E Museum the small village of Göreme is
Kayser Cad 39. Tel (0384) 341 40 82. extremely popular with back-
Open 8am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–Sun. & packers and other tourists.
There are dozens of pensions
Avanos and hotels here (many with
16 km (10 miles) NE of Nevşehir. cave rooms) and restaurants
* 14,500. n Atatürk Cad, to suit all budgets. It is also
(0384) 511 43 60. a good place from which to
Watered by the Kızılırmak (Red arrange tours of the region and
River), Avanos is a pretty, leafy to take part in outdoor activities
town noted for its pottery and ranging from walking the valleys
ceramics. Carpet-weaving and to hot-air ballooning. The main
tapestry-making are equally Shaping a jug in a pottery workshop attraction is the village’s open-
important local skills. in Avanos air museum (see pp288–9).
2 Göreme Open-Air Museum

The Göreme Valley holds the greatest
concentration of rock-cut chapels and
monasteries in Cappadocia. Dating largely
from the 9th century onwards, the valley’s
30 or more churches were built out of the soft
volcanic tuff. Many of the churches feature
superb Byzantine frescoes depicting scenes
from the Old and New Testaments, and
particularly the life of Christ and deeds of the
Tokalı Church
saints. The cultural importance of the valley The Tokalı Church, located near the entrance
has been recognized by the Turkish govern- to the museum, contains some of the most
ment and they have restored and preserved beautiful frescoes in the Göreme Valley.
the many caves to create the Göreme
Open-Air Museum. UNESCO
has declared the Göreme
Valley a World Heritage
Site. A 2006 excavation
of tombs uncovered
human skeletons.
. Kızlar Monastery
Monks lived and worked in this
hollowed-out formation. Ladders
or scaffolding were probably used
to reach the upper levels.
Camel Tours
Portions of the Göreme
Valley and surrounding area
can be viewed from atop a
camel on guided tours.
. Karanlık Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A pillared church,
built around a small Practical Information
courtyard, the 15 km (9 miles) E of Nevşehir.
Karanlık Church Tel (0384) 271 21 67.
contains frescoes Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm;
depicting the Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm.
ascension of Christ. & extra fee for Tokalı Church
and Karanlık Church. - =
Transport
k Nevşehir Kapadokya
Havalimanı (30 km/19 miles from
Nevşehir) (0384) 421 44 55.
Yılanlı Church
The barrel-vaulted
church has painted
panels devoted to a
number of saints.
Entrances to Monks’ Cells

The southern end of the valley
is honeycombed with the tiny
cells once occupied by monks.
KEY
1 The walking route starts at

the car park near the entrance.
2 Çarıklı Church
3 Katherina Church
4 Dining Hall
5 Barbara Church takes its
name from a fresco on the west
wall, which is thought to depict
St Barbara. A seated figure of Christ
occupies the central apse. Saints
. Elmalı Church Georgius and Theodorus are
Noted for the sophistication of its frescoes, depicted killing the dragon.
the church dates from the 11th century.
frescoes and draws pilgrims 6 Mount Erciyes

from Greece. Of note are the Erciyes Dağı
monastery of St Nicholas and
the Church of St Basil, the latter Mount Erciyes, at a height
located outside the village. of 3,916 m (12,848 ft), is
Several pensions and a few Cappadocia’s dominant natural
hotels have been restored to landmark. Locals regard this
their former Greek appearance. extinct volcano with respect
because of its role in shaping
the landscape when it buried the
4 Kayseri area in volcanic dust and ash
See pp294–5. millions of years ago. The residual
tuff – fine-grained, compressed
volcanic ash – is the area’s major
5 Bünyan geological feature (see pp284–5).
35 km (22 miles) E of Kayseri. The calcium in the tuff enriches
* 5,780. _ Yogurt Festival (18 May). the soil, encouraging the
The Church of Constantine and Helen, growth of trees and vines.
in Mustafapaşa Bünyan lies east of Kayseri, Between the two peaks
off the main highway to Sivas. (Greater and Lesser Erciyes) are
3 Mustafapaşa This is a good place for a two lovely moraine lakes, Cora
6 km (4 miles) S of Ürgüp. * 3,800.
relaxed outing for a few hours and Sarı. Mount Erciyes is also a
or an afternoon, and often ski centre (see p372) with a
Formerly known as Sinasos, features on sightseeing tours chairlift and a lodge. The season
Mustafapaşa is a perfectly to the region. runs from November to May.
preserved Greek village, whose The economic mainstay of Hiking is possible in summer,
inhabitants left during the the town is handicrafts, mainly but you will need experience
exchange of populations the carpets hand-woven by and proper equipment.
between Greece and Turkey in the women. You can see them
1923. The houses have a wealth at work on the looms and
of carved stonework, wall learn about the designs and 7 Soğanlı
paintings and reminders of the amount of work involved. 38 km (24 miles) S of Ürgüp. * 4,650.
the former inhabitants’ lifestyles. A particular feature of carpets Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &
Although some houses are from Bünyan is the use of
neglected, the balconies and thin, high-tensile mercerized The main attraction of the
sculptured windows are sure to cotton to make bedspreads, Soğanlı Valley is that it is quiet
delight. The large, 18th-century floor rugs and prayer mats. and undisturbed. It is possible,
Church of Constantine and This ensures that the finished even, to think of this valley as
Helen contains some faded carpet always lies flat. a microcosm of the whole
Pigeon coops cut into the rocks at Soğanlı, marked with white rings to attract the birds
Preparations for evening festivities in the Cappadocian town of Göreme
Göreme Valley. There are six cheese, which comes

interesting churches to visit here, “packaged” in a woolly
though it is thought that more sheepskin. Such local
than 100 flourished at one time. cheeses are called
All six are in good condition tulum peynırı.
and can be seen on foot during
the course of a day trip. Environs
The delicate, pastel tones There are several
of Soğanlı’s frescoes differ from interesting places
the harsher hues to be seen near Niğde. The best
in the churches at Göreme, are Bor, a carpet-
where ongoing restoration weaving centre that
has produced stronger colours. lies 15 km (9 miles)
The distinctive, colourful to the southwest, and
cloth dolls sold throughout Kemerhisar, which
Cappadocia are produced by is 20 km (12 miles) to
Soğanlı’s handicraft industry. the south. This Hittite
site dates from about
8 Niğde
1200 BC. At the site,
you can see the
* 182,000. @ Adana Yolu, 1.5 km arches of an A narrow gorge in the spectacular Aladağlar
(1 mile) east of the city centre. £ end aqueduct and Mountains, near Niğde
of İstasyon Cad, 1 km (0.5 mile) from a mineral spring.
town centre, (0388) 232 35 41. The Byzantine marshes are regarded as some
n Belediye Sarayı, (0388) 232 33 93.
monastery church at Eski of the largest and most
( Women’s Handicraft Market (Sat).
Gümüş was restored in the early important wetlands in Europe
_ Tepecuması Folklore and Country
1990s and is one of the best- and the Middle East. The area is
Festival (27 May).
kept secrets in Turkey. The protected by the Ramsar
Known in Hittite times as Nahita, frescoes here are outstanding. Convention, an agreement
Niğde survived 10th-century If you are a mountaineer, signed in Iran in 1971 to conserve
Arab raids better than its the Aladağlar Mountains offer wetlands and their resources.
neighbours. Its position on some excellent climbing and The reserve is a haven for around
a major trade route to the include Demirkazık, the highest 300 species of bird, including
Mediterranean appealed peak in the region. To reach the ducks, flamingoes, terns, cranes,
to the enterprising summit, the best egrets and plovers. Partridges,
Seljuks, and so starting point is the swordbeaks, whimbrels and
Niğde flourished village of the same pelicans all come here to breed.
as a regional name, which lies The best bird-watching spot is
capital until the 65 km (40 miles) the lookout at Ovaçiftlik.
time of the Mongol east of Niğde.
White-headed O Sultansazlığı Bird Sanctuary
invasions (see p57). Northeast of Niğde
duck 70 km (44 miles) SW of Kayseri.
The Seljuks filled is Sultansazlığı Bird
the town with fine Sanctuary, which Tel (0352) 658 55 49. Open Mar–Dec:
architecture, notably the is considered to be Turkey’s 5am–midnight daily. &
Alaeddin Mosque (1223), most important bird sanctuary 5 Eski Gümüş
distinguished by its superb after Lake Manyas (Kuşcenneti; 9 km (6 miles) NE of Niğde. Tel (0388)
stonework, ornate portal and see p163). With a total area of 232 33 90. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm
typical squat minaret, and the 172 sq km (66 sq miles), the daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
Great Mosque (Ulu Cami),
which was built around 1335.
There is also a Seljuk tomb,
the Hüdavend Hatun Türbe,
featuring the octagonal forms
typical of Seljuk architecture.
Niğde’s bazaar (bedesten),
with its fine clock tower, is
a vestige of the town’s heyday.
The museum has sections
on ethnography and Asian
civilizations, and displays the
mummified remains of a nun
from the Ihlara Valley (see p296).
Do try and taste Niğde’s
deliciously creamy ewe’s milk The Sultansazlığı Bird Sanctuary, a bird-watcher’s paradise
4 Kayseri
Dominated by Mount Erciyes, Kayseri has been fought
over by Persians, Arabs, Mongols and Ottomans. Its most
prosperous era was undoubtedly under the Romans – when
it was known as Eusebeia/Mazaka and then Caesarea – but it
also flourished under the Seljuks. At the junction of five roads,
the city was a key point on the Roman road system, and
the Romans established an imperial munitions factory here.
By the 4th century Kayseri was a focal point of Christian life
and faith. Its most famous cleric (and bishop) was St Basil
the Great (around AD 329–379), who defended church
doctrine against heretical movements.
Exploring Kayseri theatre and accommodation

Kayseri was once a prominent for psychiatric patients. Entrance to the Twin-Turreted
centre of education, and has The architectural scheme Theology Complex
many religious institutions, tombs incorporates arches, vaulted
and mosques to visit. Agriculture, antechambers (eyvan) and Emperor Justinian in the 6th
textiles and manufacturing are an open courtyard. century. However, little of the
all crucial to the local economy, outer fortifications can be seen
but it has preserved traditional ( Three Bazaars today. The black basalt structure
crafts such as carpet-making. In Behind the Ulu Camii. Closed Sun. originally had 195 bastions, and
addition the best sucuk (salami) Kayseri’s three bazaars offer a it is still an imposing sight – albeit
in Turkey comes from here and contrast to the city’s wealth of as a shopping centre today.
the 20 varieties of pastırma (cured tombs and mausoleums. The
beef ) are also a regional speciality. Covered Bazaar (Kapılı Çarşı) P Güpgüpoğlu Stately Home
dates from 1859, but the other Güpgüpoğlu Konağı
U Twin-Turreted Theology two, the Bedesten and Vizir Han, Tennuri Sok, Cumhuriyet Mahallesi.
Complex date from the 15th and 16th Tel (0352) 222 95 16. Open 8am–5pm
Çifte Medresesi centuries respectively. Tue–Sun. &
Sinan Park. Tel (0352) 231 35 65. There are few places that A family home built between
Open 8am–5pm Wed–Sun. capture the keen spirit of age- 1417 and 1419, the house has
The complex consists of two old trading better than the been carefully preserved and
adjoining theological centres, bazaars of Kayseri. All three are restored to its former glory,
the Gıyasiye Medresesi and the still patronized by local people with each room highlighting
Şifahiye Medresesi. The Seljuks and traders, who barter and specific aspects of Ottoman
placed great emphasis on haggle in a lively atmosphere. life. There are guest rooms, a
learning – this extended to Many of the local specialities, bridal chamber, meeting areas
anatomy and medicine. This such as textiles and carpets, can for family gatherings and
was the first Seljuk academy of be bought in the bazaars. men’s and women’s quarters.
medicine and is now called the Notable features are the
Gevher Nesibe Medical History + Citadel built-in cupboards (yüklük) for
Museum. Here you can learn Kale storing mattresses, and the
more about Seljuk medical The north wall and ramparts kitchen area, which consists
practices. There is an operating of the Citadel were built by of a pantry and a large main
kitchen (tokana).
U Hunat Hatun
Mosque Complex
Hunat Hatun Camii ve Medresesi
Behind tourism information office.
Open 9am–5:30pm daily.
This külliye (religious and
educational institution
adjoining a mosque) was one
of the first mosque precincts
the Seljuks built in Anatolia,
although the minaret was
erected in 1726. The complex
has a mosque, training centre
The 13th-century Citadel, now a busy shopping centre and hamam (Turkish bath) for
* 295,000.
n Cumhuriyet Meydanı, Sivas
Cad (0352) 222 39 03 and 222 03
63. _ Culture and Art Week
(1st week Apr), Pastırma
Festival (15 Sep).
Transport
@ Osman Kavuncu Cad, (0352)
327 45 00. £ North end of
Owner of a typical pastırma (cured beef) shop in Kayseri Atatürk Bulvarı, 1 km (0.5 mile)
from city centre, (0352) 231 13 13.
men and women, and also E Archaeology Museum k Erkilet, (0352) 337 52 44.
includes the substantial Arkeoloji Müzesi
mausoleum of Mahperi Hunat Gültepe Mah. Kışla Cad 2. Tel (0352)
Hatun, wife of Alaeddin I 222 21 49 and 232 48 12. Open Apr– Environs
Keykubad (see p254). Her Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: Kültepe, formerly known
inscription on the east door 8am–5pm daily. & as Kanesh or Kanış, and now
dates back to 1238. The museum consists of two Karum, is one of the most
large halls and a pleasant important Bronze Age sites
T Octagonal Tomb garden. The displays in Turkey. In the second
Döner Kümbet run in chronological millennium BC, Kültepe was
Talas Cad. sequence from the the foremost Assyrian trading
There are many grand Bronze Age to the colony. Most of the objects
tombs to be found all Byzantine period. By far found here can now be
around Anatolia, but the most valuable and seen in the museum in
the elegance and pure interesting items are Kayseri or in the Museum
simplicity of the Döner the series of cuneiform of Anatolian Civilizations
Kümbet makes it one of tablets documenting in Ankara (see pp246–7).
the most impressive. The The Octagonal Tomb the commercial
tomb was constructed transactions of the Kültepe
around 1250 as the final resting Assyrian trading colony which 21 km (13 miles) NE of Kayseri
place of Şah Cihan Hatun, who flourished here during the late on the Sivas highway.
was a Seljuk princess. Hittite era (see pp48–9). Open 8am–5pm daily. &
Kayseri City Centre BU

L Airport
İN AN 4 km (2.5 miles)
1 Twin-Turreted Theology C A S
KO
MU
KÜLTEPE
Complex
STA
Train AH
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2 Three Bazaars U L ET
FA
Station
N B
PA
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3 Citadel A SİN CA
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YIL
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IM
5 Hunat Hatun Mosque

TE
YO
Twin-Turreted
Theology Complex
CA
N
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CA
9. C
D
AD
AD
D
CA
6 Octagonal Tomb
4. C
A
AT
D
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7 Archaeology Museum
AT
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3. C
Sinan Park NKA D
ÇA
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K
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AV Stadium
BU
UNC Park CUMHURİYET

Bus Station UC
L
400m (450 yards) AD MEYDANI

Three Hunat Hatun Mosque
Bazaars Complex
N CA D
ZAA
Citadel
YA
Ulu Camii CI
NA
KIŞ
H
Güpgüpoğlu NU
LA C
Ö Stately Home
IN
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NU
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Han Camii Museum
0 metres 400
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Octagonal
Tomb
KART AL B U L VA RI
MT ERCİYES

9 Güzelyurt 0 Ihlara Valley

28 km (17 miles) SE of Aksaray.
* 4,380.  infrequent from To many people, the Ihlara
Aksaray or Ihlara Valley. Valley is more compelling than
the rock churches and dwellings
Güzelyurt means “beautiful in the region. The setting is
country” and is an apt des- dramatic, with the Melendez
cription of this charming River winding along the
and friendly town, which is canyon floor.
surrounded by citrus groves. The main part of the valley lies
This is a popular area for between the village of Selime to
horseback riding and mountain the north and the town of Ihlara
biking. The latter is a restful to the south. You could spend
alternative to driving. an entire day exploring the
It is estimated that there 15-km- (9-mile-) canyon.
were over 50 Greek Orthodox Of the 60 or so original
churches here once, though churches in the valley, which was The Eğri (Leaning) Minaret, built by
only a few endure today. known as Peristrema in Greek the Seljuks in the 13th century
The church of St Gregory of times, only about 10 can be seen
Nazianzus, one of the four and some of the interior frescoes q Aksaray
founders of the Greek Orthodox are in less than pristine condition.
* 239,000. @ 0.5 km (0.3 mile) from
Church, has been converted Most of the churches in the
main square. n Taşpazar Mahallesi,
into a mosque. It was first built valley date from the 11th century. Kadıoğlu Sok 1, (0382) 213 24 74 and
in AD 385, but the current Their unusual names signify 212 46 88.
church dates from 1896. their use or a peculiar feature:
A government protection Hyacinth, Black Deer, Crooked In Roman times, Aksaray was
order is in force in Güzelyurt, so Stone and Dovecote. Many of the known as Archelais, after
all restoration and construction interior frescoes depict scenes Archelaus II, the last king of
work must conform to official from the lives of the saints, the Cappadocia. By 20 BC, the
guidelines. Local stone must be lives of the ascetic monks or kingdom had been reduced
used and the buildings must punishments for wrongdoing. to a virtual protectorate of
be appropriate to the town. It was once thought that a Rome and the king enjoyed
The valley 4 km (2 miles) to medical school, where the art only token status.
the northeast of the town, also of mummification was taught From the south, Aksaray is
known as the Monastery Valley, and practised, was located overlooked by the twin peaks of
has an abundance of rock- between the villages of Mount Hasan (Hasan Dağı), an
carved churches. Belisırma and Yaprakhisar. extinct volcano known as “little
The spectacular Ihlara Valley, one of Central Anatolia’s best hiking areas
sister” to Mount Erciyes. Aksaray Various artifacts from

is close to the eastern end of Kalehöyük, an important
the Tuz Gölü (Salt Lake). In Hittite archaeological site
Ottoman times, the lake 55 km (34 miles) to the
brought prosperity to Aksaray northwest of Kırşehir, are
as it was the main source of salt on display in the excellent
for almost the whole of Anatolia. Archaeology Museum.
Aksaray might appear to be Kalehöyük is one of the
a sleepy base for tourists, but many Hittite centres that
spare some time to view the are being excavated in the
fine Seljuk building styles and area. The museum has
architecture, with vestiges of more than 3,300 artifacts
the original ochre-coloured on display, including coins,
sandstone. Worth seeing are ethnographic items and
the Great Mosque (1314), with its archaeological materials.
beautifully carved minbar (pulpit), Another prime reason
and the Zinciriye Medresesi, for visiting the area is a
a 14th-century Koranic school, Japanese arboretum, the
that now serves as the museum. Mikasonmiya Memorial
Aksaray has its own leaning Garden (Mikasonmiya Anı
tower, the Eğri (Leaning) Minaret, Bahçesi). One of the largest
on Nevşehir Caddesi. The minaret and most pleasant parks
is part of the Kızıl (Red) Minare in Turkey, it is planted with Doorway into the tomb of Hacı Bektaş, in the
Mosque, which was built in some 16,500 trees, made third courtyard
1236 during the reign of the up of 33 different species.
great Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin I among the Janissaries, who
Keykubat (see p254). The mosque E Archaeology Museum were the elite fighting force of
was built on sand, which has Ahi Evren Cad 10. Tel (0386) 213 33 91. the Ottoman sultans (see p60).
shifted over time, causing the Open 8am–5pm daily. & The Hacı Bektaş Museum
minaret to lean. Y Mikasonmiya (Pirevi, or “founder’s house”) is
Memorial Garden the chief attraction, along with
E Zinciriye Medresesi n Contact the Kırşehir tourist office, the stunning wood carvings
Muhsin Çelebi Sokak. Tel (0382) 213 (0386) 213 1416, for opening hours. of the archaeological museum.
16 67. Open 8am–noon & 1–5pm Be sure you allow sufficient time
daily. & to see the whole complex: there
e Hacı Bektaş are tombs, courtyards, initiation
cells, pools and a refectory
* 9,348. n Opposite the Museum,
w Kırşehir (dining room) with authentic
(0384) 441 36 87. & _ Hacı Bektaş
Veli Commemoration Festival kitchen cauldrons. The tomb
160 km (100 miles) SE of Ankara.
* 83,450. n Terme Cad, Ulucan I (16–18 Aug). of Hacı Bektaş, in the third
Apartman, Kat 1, (0386) 213 14 16. courtyard, has seven doors, and
The mystic and spiritual is particularly striking. Some of
In Byzantine times, Kırşehir philosopher Hacı Bektaş arrived the inscriptions were done with
was known as Mokyssos. It in this area from Iran, via Mecca, natural dyes from the madder
prospered under the Seljuks, in the late 13th century, and root, and later restored with
who renamed it Gülşehir, founded a centre of learning. oil-based paint.
or Rose Town. One of the His ideas were an offshoot Atatürk came through here in
finest of the city’s Seljuk of the Shi’ite sect of Islam, 1919 on his way from Sivas to
buildings is the Cacabey and rested on a belief in Ankara; his visit is marked on
Mosque, built in 1272 as natural harmony that was 22 and 23 December each year.
an astrological observatory bolstered by mysticism Admiration for the order did not
and theological college. and divine love. The prevent him banning all mystical
The Alaeddin Mosque, teachings of Hacı Bektaş sects and dervish lodges in 1925,
built in 1230, and the offered an approachable because they were contrary to
Ahi Evran Mosque are and compassionate Turkey’s secular state dogma.
also located in Kırşehir. alternative to the main The symbol of the order is
The latter contains the current of Islam. The the rose and blond onyx that
tomb of Ahi Evran, Bektaşi doctrine, as set is found in the area. It is known
Gravestone at
founder of a tarikât out in his book the as Hacı Bektaş stone.
Hacı Bektaş
(religious brotherhood) Malakat, is based on
whose members helped both Islamic and E Hacı Bektaş Museum
to spread the message Christian principles. This made Nevşehir Cad. Tel (0384) 441 30 22.
of Islam to the Christian it a popular belief. He attracted Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
communities of Anatolia. many devotees, most notably Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
E Yozgat Ethnographic Museum tombs can also be seen. The

Emniyet Cad. Tel (0354) 212 27 73. Alacahöyük Museum displays
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. some of the earthenware pots
that were used for burial rites.
Environs
Çamlık National Park, located E Alacahöyük Museum
about 5 km (3 miles) south Tel (0364) 422 70 11.
of Yozgat, covers 8 sq km Open 8am–5pm daily.
(3 sq miles) of woodland, and
has abundant fauna and flora,
picnic areas, mineral springs
and a hotel.
O Çamlık National Park

Tel (0354) 212 10 84. Open daily
The 19th-century clock tower in the main

square in Yozgat t Boğazkale
See pp300–1.
r Yozgat
* 264,000. n İI Özel İdare Hizmet
Binası, Kat 3, (0354) 212 64 23. y Alacahöyük
@ (0354) 212 41 15. ( Tue.
_ Summer Folklore and 30 km (19 miles) SE of Çorum.
Culture Festival (10–15 Jun).
Located between Sungurlu and One of the carved sphinxes that guard
Research shows that there Çorum, Alacahöyük is the third the gate at Alacahöyük
were settlements here as early and most important site (after
as 3,000 BC. However, the Boğazkale and Yazılıkaya) in the u Çorum
tides of history barely Hattuşaş complex of Hittite sites
n Yeni Hükümet Binası, A Blok, Kat 4,
affected Yozgat until it fell in this region. Most of the
(0364) 213 85 02. _ Hittite Festival
to the Ottomans in 1408 artifacts found at the site are (mid-Jun).
and the influential Çapanoğlu displayed in museums in Ankara
dynasty made the town their (see pp246–7) and Çorum. The town of Çorum dates from
seat. The Çapanoğlus built or Excavations at Alacahöyük Roman times, when it was
repaired many fine mosques, have yielded items ranging known as Niconia. The
including the Ulu (Çapanoğlu) from the Chalcolithic period surrounding area is rich in Hittite
Camii. The Yozgat Ethnographic (5500 BC–3000 BC) up to the history, making it likely that the
Museum is housed in a Phrygian period (750 BC– site was inhabited as early as
19th-century konak (mansion), 300 BC) – a staggering time 1400 BC. Throughout Turkey, the
the Nizamoğülu Konağı. span that makes the site one name of Çorum is associated
In the centre of the town of Turkey’s most important with roasted chickpeas (leblebi),
there is an interesting, though archaeological centres. one of the many snacks that
garish, clock tower built in At the site itself, the Sphinx Turks munch compulsively. A
1897 by Ahmet Tevfikzade, Gate is an imposing reminder particularly delicious local cheese
the mayor of the town. Ask to of cult power, its half-man, half- is Kargi, made from cow’s milk.
see the mechanism if you are animal statues displaying striking Çorum makes a good base from
interested in timepieces. Egyptian influences. The royal which to tour two major Hittite
Shop in Çorum specializing in the famous local produce, chickpeas

sights, Boğazkale (see pp300–301)

and Alacahöyük. Both are located
to the southwest of the town.
The Çorum Museum sprawls
over several buildings. It is a
serious and informative place
with many artifacts and
ethnographic displays, among
them very good Hittite objects,
as well as local kilims (rugs).
E Çorum Museum
Town centre. Tel (0364) 213 15 68.
The Heavenly Seminary in Sivas, showing filigree stonework

i Amasya
See pp302–3. still thrives in the Gazi Emir p Sivas
Han near the business hub * 318,000. n Atatürk Kültür Mer-
of Sulu Sokak. The town is kezi, (0346) 223 92 99. £ İstasyon
o Tokat also renowned for copper- Cad, (0346) 221 10 91. @ 3 km
* 358,000. n Valilik Binası, Kat. 3, working and ceramics in bold (2 miles) SE of main square, (0346)
(0356) 214 37 53. @ 2 km (1 mile) primary colours. 226 15 90. _ Nevruz (21 Mar).
from main square, (0356) 214 22 20. Specialities include pekmez, ∑ sivas.gov.tr
_ Pinecone Festival (mid-Sep). a delicious drink made from
concentrated grape juice, Situated at an altitude of 1,275 m
Tokat deserves a place on and the full-bodied, fruity (4,183 ft), Sivas is the highest
visitors’ itineraries because there Karaman red wine. city in Central Anatolia. Known
is a lot more to see here than as Sebasteia in Roman times, its
ankle-high ruins. The Seljuks E Archaeological Museum position on a caravan route made
left the most to see, but the Gaziosmanpaşa Bulvarı 143. it an important trade centre.
town is also known for resisting Tel (0356) 214 15 09. Open 8am– Sivas boasts the cream of
Ottoman rule. In protest at noon & 1–5pm Tue–Sun. Seljuk architecture, with tiles,
Ottoman authority, Turcoman intricately etched stonework,
tribesmen took to wearing Environs star mosaics, honeycombed
distinctive red headgear, thus The ruined city of Sebastopolis decorative motifs and bold
earning the name of Kızılbaşı is located 68 km (42 miles) blue hues all in evidence.
(redheads), which became southwest of Tokat. The modern The Heavenly Seminary (Gök
a term for “rebels”. name, Sulusaray (watery palace), Medresesi), built in the 1200s,
The town flourished after comes from the thermal springs, and Twin Minaret Seminary
Sultan Beyazıt I won control of which bubble water at 50°C (Çifte Minareli Medresesi),
trade routes to Erzincan. Trade (122°F). Interesting finds here with its outstanding carved
caravans then began to use include a city wall, bath details, should not be missed.
the Amasya–Tokat route, chambers and a temple. The Darüşşifası (Medical
skirting Trabzon (Trebizond), Hospice) housed a hospital.
to reach Bursa (see pp166–71), The Bürüciye Medresesi (1271)
the commercial jewel of the has a quiet courtyard and
15th and 16th centuries. some excellent tilework.
The Seljuks and Ottomans The Sivas Congress (to
endowed Tokat with many fine consolidate Atatürk’s plans to
buildings, especially the Blue free Turkey from foreign domin-
Seminary (Gök Medrese) and ation) was held in a schoolroom
two restored 19th-century here in 1919. The room is
Ottoman konaks (mansions): preserved in the Ethnography
the Madımağın Celal’ın House Museum. Local artisans are
and the Latifoğlu House. known for long-stemmed
If time is limited, Tokat’s wooden pipes, penknives
interesting Archaeological and bone-handled knives.
Museum is the place to go.
Tokat has a proud 300-year E Ethnography Museum
tradition of hand-printed Shop selling hand-printed textiles Istasyon Cad. Tel (0346) 221 04 46.
textiles (yazmacılık). The craft in Tokat Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
t Boğazkale
Hattuşaş National Park
Boğazkale is the modern name for the ancient Hittite
capital city of Hattuşaş, built around 1600 BC on a
strategic site occupied since the third millennium BC.
An Assyrian trading colony was also active here
early in the 2nd millennium BC. A UNESCO World
Heritage Site, it is one of the most important ancient
sites to be found in Anatolia. The many thousands
of clay and bronze tablets discovered here have
provided scholars with a wealth of information
about the ancient Hittite civilization. Bronze Plaque
The city occupies an extensive site bordered This plaque found at
on three sides by steep ravines. Sections of the Boğazkale records a treaty
between the Hittite king,
walls, including the impressive Lion’s and King’s Tudhaliyas IV, and
gates, are still standing. The builders adapted the another ruler.
fortifications in masterly fashion to take advantage
of topographical features.
Entry to
excavation site
. Lion’s Gate (Aslanlıkapı)

The Lion’s Gate takes its name from the two lion
statues that guarded the city over 3,000 years
ago. The lions here are only replicas – the
originals are now in the Museum of Anatolian
Civilizations in Ankara (see pp246–7).
Hittite Civilization
A people of Indo-European
origin, the Hittites arrived in
Anatolia from the Caucasus
region around 2000 BC. Over
the next few centuries, they
built up a powerful state, with
a capital at Hattuşaş (now known
as Boğazkale). At its height, the
Hittite kingdom controlled much
of Anatolia, rivalling both Egypt
and Babylon. Hittite art reached
its peak between 1450 BC and
1200 BC, and Hittite artisans
were renowned as superb One of the 12 gods in stone relief at 0 metres 550
carvers and metalworkers. Yazılıkaya, near Boğazkale 0 yards 550
Part of Çorum Museum, within
Hattuşaş National Park.
Tel (0364) 452 20 06.
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun.
& Admission includes entry to
the Yazılıkaya site nearby. - =
. Great Temple (Büyük Mabet)

One of the best-preserved Hittite temples, the
Great Temple was built around 1400 BC, and
was dedicated to the storm god, Teshub. The
temple complex contains ritual chambers,
administrative areas and storage rooms.
The Citadel (Büyükkale)

The walled citadel was the seat of
government at Hattuşaş. A monumental
staircase led up to three courts, one
of which contained the living quarters
of the royal household.
Battlements, probably
made of mud bricks
Rough stone
blocks
Corbelled archway
KEY
1 The Sphinx Gate (Yerkapı)

is built into an artificial hill, and . Reconstruction of the King’s Gate
incorporates a tunnel 70 m
(230 ft) in length. The King’s Gate (Kral Kapı) was named after the regal-
looking Hittite war god on the stone relief guarding
2 Yenice Citadel the entrance. The city wall is built with huge, roughly
3 Modern village of Boğazköy worked stone blocks, and totals about 7 km (4 miles)
4 Sarı Citadel in length. The height of the stone portion was about
6 m (20 ft). Like the other structures in the city, this
5 King’s Gate
would have been overlaid with sun-dried brick.
i Amasya
Lying in a secluded valley of the Yeşilırmak River, Amasya
has seen the passage of nine civilizations, from the Hittites
to Ottomans. Its most prosperous era was as royal capital of
the Roman kingdom of Pontus, when it was called Amaseia;
the tombs cut into the cliffs above the town contain the
graves of the Pontic kings. However, a glance at Amasya’s The carved portal of the Teaching
many fine Ottoman buildings will confirm that the four Hospital Complex
centuries of Ottoman rule were equally illustrious. In the
P Teaching Hospital Complex
15th century, Amasya was second only to Bursa in cultural
Daruşşifa/Bimarhane Medresesi
and trading importance. By the 1800s, the city excelled Atatürk Cad. Open 9am–6pm daily.
as the empire’s leading centre for Islamic education. The outer walls of the original
asylum date from 1308.
Exploring Amasya + Citadel The complex served as a
Its dramatic location and air Kale medical research centre, a
of tranquillity aside, Amasya Can be reached by 2-hour climb from school for interns and a hospice
is known for the tasty apples the front, or by a road from behind. for mental patients. Music and
grown on the surrounding farms The original Hittite fortress speech therapy were used
and for colourful hand-knitted was reinforced by the Pontic to calm disturbed patients.
socks. All main sights are king, Mithridates (see p52). The carved front portal is
conveniently accessible on foot. He built eight layers of walls, wonderfully detailed and
The citadel is the only exception, with 41 towers, to protect represents a rare architectural
but it can be reached by car. a self-sustaining complex remnant of the Ilhanid Persian
with a palace, cisterns, storage empire of the 13th century.
areas, powder magazine and The building houses a café
cemetery. From the Citadel and the offices of the local
there are stupendous views Music and Fine Arts Directorate.
of the nearby Rock Tombs.
P Hazeranlar Mansion
 Rock Tombs Hazeranlar Konağı
Kral Kaya Mezarları Hattuniye Mahallesi. Tel (0358) 218 40
Entrance under the railway line off 18. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
Hazeranlar Sok. Open 8am–5pm Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & 0 =
(7pm in summer). & This restored mansion dates
The tombs of the Pontic kings from 1865. It was built by a
date from 333 BC to 44 BC, local treasury officer, Hasan Talat
covering the Hellenistic and Efendi, in memory of his sister,
Roman periods. The Mirror Hazeran Hanım (Lady Hazeran).
Cave (Aynalı Mağrası), about The layout, typical of the time,
1 km (0.5 mile) from the main features separate areas for
tombs, has a coloured painting men and women. The carpets,
The Citadel, perched dramatically showing the Virgin Mary from the late Ottoman period,
on a hilltop and the Apostles. are particularly fine.
U Great Lord’s Seminary

Büyük Ağa Medresesi
Zubediye Hanım Sok.
Closed during lessons.
The wonderful airy symmetry
and octagonal plan of this
complex, also known as the
Kapıağası, are its outstanding
features. It was built in 1488 by
Hüseyin Agha, a private consort
of Sultan Beyazıt II. The vaulted
porticoes and domed rooms
are now used by Koranic
students, who adhere to exactly
the same rigorous discipline
as their predecessors did two
or three centuries ago. The tombs of the Pontic kings, carved into the limestone cliffs
E Archaeology and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Ethnography Museum
Arkeoloji ve Etnografik Müzesi Practical Information
Mustafa Kemal Paşa Cad 91. Tel (0358) * 215,000. n Atatürk Cad,
218 45 13. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Pirinç Mah (opposite Bimarhane),
daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & (0358) 218 50 02.
The museum has been Transport
improved and modernized, £ 2 km (1 mile) W of town
and so the concept of space centre, (0358) 218 12 39.
is much enhanced. Notable @ 2 km (1 mile) NE of town
among its exhibits is the bronze centre, (0358) 218 80 12.
statue of the Hittite storm god,
as well as a collection of Roman
coins minted in the town. U Blue Seminary
Konaks (mansion houses) along the The museum is best known Gök Medresesi
Yeşilırmak River for its collection of mummies, Mustafa Kemal Paşa Cad (Torumtay
which were found in Anatolia Sok). Open contact a guardian to let
U Sultan Beyazıt Mosque and date from the Ilhanid you in. Closed during prayer time.
and Theological College period (around the 14th & donation.
Sultan Beyazıt II Külliyesi century). Previously housed A theological complex dating
Mustafa Kemal Paşa Cad. in a dank tomb adjacent to from 1267, the Blue Seminary
Closed during prayer times. the museum, these now have is typical of 13th-century Seljuk
& donation. much more prominence in architecture. It was formerly used
This was Amasya’s primary their display cases. as a mosque and Koranic school,
theological complex, eclipsing and takes its name from the
all other places of religious turquois and blue tiles and the
learning. It was a product glazed bricks used in its con-
of the prosperity and social struction. The elaborately carved
stability that prevailed under wooden doors contrasted with
Sultan Beyazıt II (1481–1512). the austere interior and are now
In that era, Muslim principles housed in the Archaeology and
and obedience to the state Ethnographic Museum.
were instilled at an early age. Adjoining the complex is
The wonderful domes and the Torumtay Türbe, a square
portals are inspirational in tomb built in 1279 in memory
themselves, and the oak trees of the Emir Torumtay, Seljuk
in the garden are said to be as The Sultan Beyazıt Mosque, completed governor of the province
old as the mosque itself. in 1486, with its famous rose garden and founder of the seminary.
Amasya City Centre

1 Great Lord’s Seminary 7 Archaeology and
SAMSUN
2 Citadel Ethnography Museum
Bus station
3 Rock Tombs 8 Blue Seminary Great Lord's 1km (0.5 mile)
Seminary
4 Teaching Hospital Complex
Beyazit
5 Hazeranlar Mansion Paşa Camii
Leğenkaya
6 Sultan Beyazıt Mosque and Waterfall Ş lranl l Camii
UL
MU S T A FA K EMAL B
Theological College
E L M A S I Y E C AD
Citadel
şil Irmak
Rock Tombs Mehmet

0 metres 400 Paşa Camii
0 yards 400 Train Station Teaching Hospital

Ye
500m (550 yards)

Kızlar Sarayı Complex
I S TA S Y O N CAD
Hazeranlar
Mansion Gümüşlü
Yıldız ATATÜRK Camii
MEYDANI
ak Hamamı
Irm ZİYA B UL
Y eşil PAŞA
Sultan Beyazıt Mosque Kileri Süleyman
and Theological College Ağa Camii
TORAT
İ
A TA T Ü R K CADDES
Blue Archeology and

Seminary Ethnography Museum

EASTERN
ANATOLIA
The vast, high plateau of eastern Turkey is dominated by the extinct volcano of
Mount Ağrı (Ararat), which soars to a height of 5,165 m (16,945 ft). The surface
of Lake Van reflects the summits of the surrounding peaks. Trapped by the
mountains, the lake has no outflow. In the south, the eastern extension of
the Taurus range crumbles suddenly into the sun-baked Mesopotamian plain.
The region is drained by two great the huge stone heads on the summit
rivers – the Euphrates (Fırat) and Tigris of Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı) and
(Dicle) – as well as their tributaries. Abraham’s legendary birthplace at
For centuries, the Euphrates demarcated Şanlıurfa. Diyarbakır’s austere basalt
the eastern frontier of the Roman and walls loom dramatically over the Tigris,
Byzantine empires. Today, the rivers guarding the road north to the interior
have been harnessed by the Southeast plateau. Van was once the seat of
Anatolian Project (GAP) to supply the the sophisticated Urartian kingdom.
southeastern part of the country with The rough frontier town of Doğubayazıt
irrigation water and hydro-electric power. was home to fiercely independent
This border zone has always been Kurdish princes. Kars, 10th-century
a cultural melting pot – Monophysite capital of Armenia and access point for
Christian Armenians and Syrians lived Ani, has been fought over many times
alongside Orthodox Greeks and later by Russians and Turks. During World
Arabs and Turks, while Kurds have War I, Russian forces reached as far west
long occupied the highlands. as Erzurum, a Seljuk city with imposing
Historic Gaziantep is the gateway medieval tombs and religious buildings,
from the southeast, leading to the which guards the strategic highway
golden apricot orchards of Malatya, into central Anatolia.
Snowcapped Mount Ağrı (Ararat), legendary resting place of Noah’s Ark

The Armenian Church of the Holy Cross on Akdamar Island, Lake Van
Exploring Eastern Anatolia

From the baking plains of Upper Mesopotamia
to the icy heights of Mount Ağrı (Ararat), this vast
region of Turkey is relatively undeveloped and
unspoiled, making it a natural target for the more
adventurous traveller. It is a land of frontiers, from
cold and lonely Kars – a short step away from
Armenia – through the Turkish-Iranian border
town of Doğubayazıt, to the bustling bazaar city
of Şanlıurfa close to Syria. Many peoples have
lived in and fought over this land. Visitors can
see Armenian churches and Kurdish castles, Arab The citadel at Şanlıurfa
houses, Syrian Orthodox monasteries and both
Amasya
Seljuk and Ottoman mosques vying with ruins
from the Urartian and Roman eras. Late spring
and early autumn are the best seasons to visit. Sußehri
Zara Refahiye
Sivas rı
Da la ERZİNCAN
er
T ec Ne h r i )
( F ırat
r ates
DİVRİĞİ E uph
göl
Kemaliye Kara
Tunceli
Keban
Barajı
Kayseri Hekimhan
Elazığ
Karakaya
a Çayı Barajı
Darende T ohm
Eski Malatya
Elbistan MALATYA Ergani

Doğanşehir
Çermik
MOUNT NEMRUT
Göksun
Devegeçidi
Stone head on Mount Nemrut Gölbaşı Barajı
Adıyaman
KÂHTA Siverek
KAHRAMANMARAŞ Atatürk
s
Euphr ate Barajı
Pazarcık i) ası
ırat Nehr a Ya
yl
Sights at a Glance (F ıurf
Bozova anl
1 Kâhta Adana
2 Mount Nemrut p310 GAZİANTEP ŞANLIURFA
3 Malatya Birecik
Nizip
4 Kahramanmaraş
5 Gaziantep Kilis
6 Şanlıurfa
7 Mardin
8 Diyarbakır pp314–15
9 Lake Van
0 Doğubayazıt
q Kars
w Ani pp320–21
0 kilometres 80
e Erzurum pp322–3
r Erzincan 0 miles 40
t Divriği

E A S T E R N A N ATO L I A 307
Key
Motorway
Dual carriageway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway Şayşat
Çıldır
Minor railway Ardahan Seljuk tombs at Erzurum
Çıldır Akbaba Da ı
International border 3040m
Gölü
Summit Arpaçay
Göle
Artvin Oltu KARS ANİ

Şenkaya
Tortum Sarıkamış
Kağızman
Bayburt Aras
Horasan
Tuzluca
ERZURUM
Aşkale Gü neyi Da ları İğdir Aralık
lar
ı as Agrı Da ı
Da Ar 5165m
P al a n d ö ke n Taşlıçay
Karayazı Tutak
Çat DOĞUBAYAZIT
Diyadin
ı shak Pa a
lar Hınıs Saray¡
Da rı
Karlıova Patnos A l a D a l a
Varto Malazgirt
ri Çaldıran
M u ra t N e h
Erciş
e ra f e t t i n D a l a r ı Muradiye
Bingöl
Ahlat
Murat Nehri Erçek Gölü
Muş Nemrut Da ı LAKE VAN
Genç Akdag M 2935m
usgün
eyi
Da Tatvan
lar
ı
Van
Akdamar
Kilesi
Bitlis Çavu tepe
Ka Gevaş
vu a
hap Da ları
Sılvan
Baykan
Başkale
DİYARBAKIR Siirt Ça t a
k Ç ayı
Pervari Alanda Da ı
Ti g r i s (D
Batman 3260m
icle N Ilisu
Çınar ehr i) Barajı Hakkâri Yüksekova
rı Şırnak
Da la Cilo Da ı
rdin 4130m
Ma Midyat kiyaka Da ı
3530m
Cizre
MARDİN
Nusaybin
Kızıltepe
Ceylanpınar
Getting Around
Comfortable intercity coaches connect
all the major cities in the region, and are
reasonably priced. For rural areas or out-of-
the-way sites, the best option is a locally
hired taxi. Rental cars are available in major
cities such as Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa and Van,
as well as in smaller tourist towns such as
Mardin. Non-stop flights from Istanbul and
Ankara serve Şanlıurfa, Mardin, Erzincan
and Kars. Rail travel between Erzurum and
Kars, and Malatya and Tatvan, on Lake Van,
is slow but scenically rewarding. The island of Akdamar, in Lake Van
The Atatürk Dam, centrepiece of the GAP (Southeast Anatolian Project)
1 Kâhta 3 Malatya but makes a less convenient

base than Kâhta for trips to
43 km (27 miles) E of Adıyaman. * 762,000. @ 4 km (2.5 miles) W of
n Kâhta Kaymakamlik, (0416) 725 Mount Nemrut.
city centre, off Turgut Özal Bul, (0422)
50 05 (all year); (0416) 725 50 07 238 47 68. £ 2 km (1 mile) W of city
The town’s most interesting
(summer only). _ International Kâhta centre, (0422) 212 40 40. k 23 km sights are its bazaars. The Apricot
Kommagene Festival (last week in Jun). (14 miles) W of city centre. n Valilik Bazaar specializes in locally
Binası, (0422) 323 30 25/29 42. grown and dried apricots. Trading
Although it is located close to ( daily. _ Cherry Festival (18 Jun); takes place after the harvest,
the lake created by the monu- Apricot Festival (3rd week Jul). and during the Apricot Festival in
mental Atatürk Dam (Atatürk July. Around the central mosque
Barajı), Kâhta’s main attraction Malatya is famous for its is the Copper Bazaar, a group
is its proximity to Mount apricots, grown in the vast of copper-beating workshops
Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı), located surrounding orchards. It was where you can buy handmade
70 km (44 miles) northeast. also the birthplace of two trays, pots and vases.
Turkish presidents: İsmet İnönü, Aslantepe, a HIttite site
Environs Atatürk’s right-hand man during located 4 km (3 miles) northeast
The Atatürk Dam, part of the the War of Independence; and of Malatya was flooded as a
GAP project, has intruded into Turgut Özal, an economist who result of the GAP project. Dating
the Euphrates basin’s ancient served first as Prime Minister, back to the 4th millennium BC
past. Building of this and other and then President, from the this artificial settlement mound,
dams has flooded important mid-1980s (see p63). which has been excavated by
historic treasures and sites. Malatya is a pleasant and Italian teams since the 1960s,
The town of Adıyaman is fairly prosperous town with a is now an open-air museum.
slightly further away from university and a military base, Complete with walkways and
Mount Nemrut (about a half- informative signboards, it
hour drive west of Kâhta), and gives valuable insights into the
makes an alternative base. Chacolithic, Hittite, Roman and
The lush, green village of Medieval periods and is set in
Karadut (Black Mulberry), set delightful apricot orchards.
in dramatic mountain scenery Finds from Aslantepe are on
12 km (7 miles) below the display in the Malatya
summit. There are good options Archaeological Museum. Items
for accommodation nearby. including Hittite stone god
statues, cuneiform seals, bone
Adıyaman idols and early bronze swords
n Atatürk Bul 184, (0416) 216 10 08. were transferred to the museum.
There are over 15,500 items
spanning most historic periods.
2 Mount Nemrut The Neolithic sculptures from
Nemrut Dağı 8000 BC are particularly impres-
See p310. Apricot vendor in Malatya’s Apricot Bazaar sive, as are the obsidian knives.
Local carpets and kilims (rugs) The much-restored Great

have distinctive features, such as Mosque (Ulu Cami) is built
the rectangular “tower bastion” around a tiny courtyard, its
motif. The yedi dağ çiçeği (seven- graceful interior divided
point flower) motif can be found into separate summer and
on kilims. Carpets generally winter areas. The winter area
have simpler designs in strong, is supported by massive pillars
primary colours, with borders and enclosed by thick walls,
featuring stylized flowers, rams, while the summer section
medallions or dragons. Small has a beautifully carved wooden
hand-loomed carpets and pulpit, and amazing herring-
goat-hair rugs are also found bone brick vaulting decorated
in and around Malatya. with scattered turquoise tiles.
( Apricot Bazaar U Great Mosque

New Malatya Quarter. Open Mon–Sat. Ulu Cami
( Copper Bazaar Opposite the bus station. Open daily
New Malatya Quarter. Adjoining the (except during prayer times).
Apricot Bazaar. Open Mon–Sat. The pleasant park below the citadel
at Kahramanmaraş
E Aslantepe
4 km NE of Malatya.
4 Kahramanmaraş
into glutinous form. It is sold
Tel (0422) 321 30 06. Open 8am– * 675,000. @ W of main
5pm Tue–Sun. &
all over Turkey by costumed
highway on Azerbaycan
Bulvarı, (0344) 235 30 06. vendors. Locally, it is sold by the
E Malatya metre and cut with a knife. You
£ Cumhuriyet Cad,
Archaeological can also buy it served in a cone.
(0344) 235 00 75.
Museum The town’s citadel, probably
n Valilik Bahçesi,
Dernek Mahallesi, Kanal used as defence against Arab
(0344) 223 03 55.
Boyu. Tel (0422) 321 30 06. raiders in the 7th century, is now
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
Like many other a popular tea garden and park.
Turkish towns, Two mosques, the Great Mosque
Environs Copper teapot Kahramanmaraş has and the Hatuniye Camii, date
Eski Malatya, the old part from Malatya a deceptive air of calm from the 15th- and 16th-century
of town, lies about 12 km and tranquillity that Beylik period. Their interiors
(7.5 miles) north of the modern conceals a turbulent past. The feature fine wooden carvings.
centre. A little village of 2,000 first part of its name (meaning The local Archaeological and
inhabitants has developed “heroic”) was added by Atatürk Ethnographic Museum displays
inside these walls, once an in recognition of the town’s Hittite statues, ceremonial
important Roman and then successful expulsion of French costumes, kilims and textile
Byzantine stronghold. The and British troops in 1920. items from various eras.
17th-century Silahtar Mustafa It is, however, often just called
Paşa Caravanserai had been “Maraş”, after its particularly E Archaeological and
restored, but is now sadly famous product, Maraş Ethnographic Museum
neglected and visitors have Dondurması – a delicious type of Azerbaycan Bul. Tel (0344) 223 44 88.
to wander around among ice cream containing gum arabic Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Nov–
chickens and donkeys. that is pounded or whipped Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
The 17th-century Silahtar Mustafa Paşa Caravanserai in Eski Malatya

2 Mount Nemrut
Nemrut Dağı
The huge stone heads on the summit of Mount Nemrut
(Nemrut Dağı) were built by King Antiochus I Epiphanes, Practical Information
who ruled the Commagene kingdom between 64 and 70 km (44 miles) from Kâhta,
84 km (52 miles) from Adıyaman
38 BC. To glorify his rule, the king had three enormous in Nemrut Dağı National Park.
terraces (east, west and north) cut into the mountaintop. Tel (0416) 725 50 07.
Colossal statues of himself and the major gods (both Open May–Oct: 8am–7pm daily.
Greek and Persian) of the kingdom were placed on Closed Nov–Apr. &
the terraces, and the summit became a sanctuary
where the king was worshipped. Today’s visitors
can still see the remains of the east and west
terraces (not much is left of the north terrace),
which also feature large, detailed stone reliefs.
The enigmatic site was discovered in 1881
by a German engineer, Karl Sester, but was
not fully documented until the 1990s.
. East Terrace
The site affords superb views of the
surrounding region. Behind the
Eagle sanctuary rises a 50 m-
Lion (165 ft-) high mound
Tyche rumoured to contain
Zeus the tumulus of
King Antiochus.
Apollo
Heracles
Eagle
Lion
Reconstruction
This artists’ impression depicts
the East Terrace as it probably
looked in the 1st century BC. The
limestone figures were 8–10 m
(26–33 ft) in height.
Head of Antiochus
The re-erected head of King
Antiochus stands near the
tumbled one of Tyche,
Commagene goddess of fortune.
5 Gaziantep the hayat, or summer

courtyard, seen in
* 1,604,000. £ İstasyon Cad, (0342)
the Hasan Süzer
323 31 96. k Sazgan, 18 km (11
Ethnographic
miles) from city centre, (0342) 582 11
Museum. The
11. @ 5 km (3 miles) North of city
centre, (0342) 328 92 46. n Yüzyıl central Gaziantep
Atatürk Kültür Parkı, (0342) 230 59 69. Archaeological
_ Pistachio Festival (1st week in Sep). Museum is worth a
visit to see Hittite
Named Ayntap, or pure spring, and Roman statuary
by the Byzantines, Gaziantep’s as well as Assyrian, Gypsy girl mosaic, Gaziantep Zeugma Mosaic Museum
modern prefix of gazi (war hero) Babylonian and
derives from heroic resistance Urartian artifacts. pistachio nuts are grown
to French and English invaders The jewel of the city’s around the city. The city’s
in 1920. The site has been museums is the state-of-the-art distinctive cuisine is famed
occupied for 8,000 years Gaziantep Zeugma Mosaic throughout the country,
and was a strategic Museum. Spread over particularly sweet pastries
defence hub in Hittite three floors, it is the world’s such as pistachio-filled baklava.
times (1200–700BC). largest mosaic museum, To find out more about the
The city sprawls around housing more than city’s cuisine, it is worth visiting
an imposing castle 3,500 sq m of largely Emine Göğüş Culinary
(kale) perched atop 2nd- and 3rd-century Museum in the bazaar quarter
a partly man-made mosaics rescued below the castle.
mound. On the from the floodwaters
approach to of a dam on the
E Hasan Süzer
the castle is the nearby Euphrates.
Ethnography Museum
Panorama Museum The mosaics once
Eyüboğlu Mah, Hanifioğlu Sok 64.
(open daily), which Statue of Mars, Gaziantep adorned the villas Tel (0342) 230 47 21. Open 8:30am–
gives a vivid insight Zeugma Mosaic Museum of the wealthy noon & 1–4:30pm Tue–Sun. &
into the Turks’ defence citizens of Zeugma, a
of the city from the invading frontier city that controlled trade E Gaziantep
French in 1920. After decades along an arm of the Silk Route. Archaeological Museum
of economic decline the city Of particular note are the statue Istasyon Cad. Tel (0342) 324 88 09.
has boomed, not least because of Mars and the gypsy girl Open 8:30am– noon & 1–6pm Tue–
Sun. &
of its proximity to the Southeast mosaic, which is a regional
Anatolian Project (see p25). idol and symbol of the Zeugma E Gaziantep Zeugma
Just below the citadel is excavations. Also housed in Mosaic Museum
a bazaar, where craftsmen the museum are superb recon- Konukoğlu Bulvarı.
produce and sell copperware structions of courtyard villas Tel (0342) 325 27 27.
and furniture inlaid with complete with mosaic floors, Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar:
mother-of-pearl, a craft for frescoes and columns and the 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &
which the town is famous. remains of a Roman bathhouse. E Emine Göğüş
Stroll around the old town Gaziantep is an important Culinary Museum
to see traditional architecture agricultural and industrial Hasırcı Sok. Tel (0342) 220 08 88.
adapted for regional life, like centre, and olives, grapes and Open 9am–6pm daily. &
Gaziantep’s bazaars, colourful and brimming with local goods

6 Şanlıurfa
* 975,000. @ 5 km (3 miles) N
of city centre, (0482) 412 15 49.
k 6 km (4 miles) S of city centre,
(0414) 313 78 23. n Atatürk Bul,
Vilayet Binası, Kat 3, (0414) 312 53 32.
The city of Şanlıurfa is one of

the most interesting and
colourful in the region. First
settled by the Hurri peoples
around 5,500 years ago, it was
occupied by a succession of
peoples, such as the Hittites,
Assyrians, Greeks and Romans.
Alexander the Great named People playing games and relaxing in Gümrük Hanı, a lovely courtyard in Sanliurfa’s bazaar
it Edessa, and the Ottomans
renamed it Urfa. The city acquired in the bazaar. This beautifully Environs
the prefix şanlı (glorious) shady Ottoman-era courtyard Set on a rounded hilltop some
through the role it played in building is full of locals drinking 15 km (9 miles) northeast of
resistance to the French in 1920. tea and coffee, and playing Şanlıurafa, Göbekli Tepe (see p312)
Şanlıurfa was a major centre endless games of backgammon. is one of the most exciting sights
for the Nestorian branch of The Haleplibahçe Museum in Turkey. A temple complex of
Christianity, and later became Complex is scheduled immense significance,
the capital of a Crusader state to open in the spring its discovery in 1995
(1097–1144). Churches, now or summer 2015. challenged traditional
mosques, in the old town include Situated just west concepts that man-
the Selahattin Eyubi Camii, once of the Gölbaşı kind was only able
the church of St John. area, this huge to produce monu-
Most visitors, however, come museum is built mental buildings
here to see the Gölbaşı (lakeside) around some after the transition
area at the foot of the citadel. This superb 3rd- to 5th- had been made
pleasantly landscaped garden con- century late Roman from a hunter-
tains the Pool of Abraham, said to and Byzantine mosaics, gatherer to a settled
be the site where the biblical pro- which were discovered society. Some of the
phet was saved from the vengeful in situ in 2007 during Beehive-shaped monolithic, anthropo-
Assyrian king, Nimrod (Nemrut). excavations for an urban hosues in Harran morphic T-shaped stones
A small cave nearby is said to be infrastructure project. here are 5 m (16 ft) tall and
the birthplace of Abraham. Some 10,000 objects will be the earliest predate Stonehenge by
The stone covered bazaar, displayed in the museum, nearly 8,000 years. Arranged in
or Kapalı Çarşı, is an Ottoman including finds from one of circles in chambers hollowed
structure, with designated rows the world’s most important from the hilltop, most of the
of streets devoted to particular archaeological sites, Göbekli stones are decorated with raised
trades. Traditional crafts and skills Tepe. A replica of the temple relief carvings of foxes, wild boars,
predominate, and it is a good complex at Göbekli will form snakes and lions. Walkways allow
place to shop for locally produced a focal attraction, along with visitors to examine the temple
cloth. Don’t miss the Gümrük Hanı audio-visual presentations. complex. The site is open
between sunrise and sunset, and
there is a small entrance fee.
It is worth making the 45-km
(28-mile) trip southeast of Şanlıurfa
to see the curious beehive houses
of Harran, once an important city
but which was destroyed by the
Mongols in the 13th century. Most
of the inhabitants of this austerely
beautiful place are Arabs, and
some still live among the ruins
of old Harran in houses made
from mud-plastered stone.
Substantial remains include the
citadel and Ulu Cami, a massive
(though now ruined) mosque
The Pool of Abraham in Şanlıurfa denoted by a square minaret.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p339 and p360–61
7 Mardin
* 88,000. n Valilik Binası, (0482) 212
18 52 and (0482) 212 37 76. _ Kite
Festival (3rd week Jun).
Superbly situated atop a

limestone crag overlooking
the Mesopotamian plain, Mardin
is justly famed for its beautiful
vernacular architecture. Many
of its superb stone houses have
been converted into boutique
hotels and, after Gaziantep, it
is the arguably the most tourist-
friendly city in southeast Turkey.
The city was captured by
Muslims in about AD 640
and ruled by various Arab
and Kurdish states until the
11th century. Some exceptional
theological buildings, like
the Zinciriye Medresesi and
the Kasımiye Medresesi, date
from the 14th and 15th
centuries respectively.
The unusual terrace-style
dwellings and narrow, labyrinth-
like streets invoke the style and
form of their Arab heritage. Mardin Museum, which was formerly the Syrian Catholic Patriarchate
A city landmark is the Mardin
E Mardin Museum
Museum, whose archaeological A state-of-the-art ethnography
Cumhuriyet Meydani, Latifiye Mah,
section displays works from 4000 museum housed in a beautifully
Mardin. Tel (0482) 212 16 14.
BC until the 7th century BC. restored period stone building,
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
The Ulu Cami, a 12th-century Sakip Sabancı City Museum
Syrian-style mosque, built by an is the place to find out about E Sakip Sabancı City Museum
Artukid chieftain, is another city the traditional way of life in Gül Mahallesi Eski Hükümet Cad,
symbol. It is noted for its huge Mardin. Exhibits range from Mardin. Tel (0482) 212 93 96.
minaret, which soars above audiovisual presentations on Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
the city and is decorated with metalworking and fabric
teardrop-shaped relief carvings printing to superb photographs Environs
and has inscriptions in Kufic of the town’s myriad mosques Mardin, and the Tör Abdin
Arabic script. There is a and churches. Temporary plateau east of it, has long
fascinating bazaar surrounding exhibitions are also held at been a stronghold of the Syrian
the mosque. the museum. Orthodox Church. Deyr-az-
Zaferan, known as the Saffron
Monastery due to the colour
of the yellowish stones it is built
with, is the showcase of a
much persecuted minority,
and is beautifully set in a
peaceful valley below dramatic
bluffs some 6 km (4 miles)
southeast of Mardin. A guide
accompanies visitors around
the picturesque stone-built
monastery dating back to the
5th century and still in
operation. There is a also a café,
and one guestroom is available
for overnight stays.
E Deyr-az-Zaferan
6 km (4 miles) SE of Mardin.
Traditional stone houses in Mardin Open 8am–noon, 1–5pm daily. &
8 Diyarbakır
Southeastern Turkey’s liveliest city, Diyarbakır is situated on
the edge of a high bank dropping down to the Tigris River.
Its 6 km (4 miles) of black basalt walls encircle an old centre of
cobbled streets and alleys, mosques, churches and mansions.
As the unofficial capital of Turkey’s Kurdish-dominated
southeast, political feelings can run high here. However,
the inhabitants are generally warm and open to visitors,
and justly proud of their atmospheric but economically
deprived home city.
Vendor offering one of the region’s
Diyarbakır is renowned for the gigantic watermelons famous watermelons
sold in its markets. Watered by the Tigris River and
fertilized with pigeon droppings, the melons can U Kasım Padişah Mosque
reach weights of up to 50 kg (112 lb). Dört Ayaklı Camii
Yeni Kapı Cad. Open daily.
Closed during prayer times.
Exploring Diyarbakır & donation.
Most of the city’s sights are This was the last of the great
concentrated in the central mosques built under the reign
area and can be seen on foot. of the Akkoyunlu (White Sheep)
Walking alone around the Turkomans. It is unusual for its
walls is not recommended. free-standing minaret supported
by four 2-m- (6.5-ft-) high basalt
5 Diyarbakir’s Churches pillars carved from a single
Diyarbakır’ın Kilise block of stone, known as the
Church of the Virgin Mary. Open daily; Dört Ayaklı Minare (four-legged
services 8am–noon Sun. Church of St minaret). It is said that your wish
George. Open admission via caretaker. will be granted if you walk
The city’s oldest church is seven times around its pillars.
the Syrian Orthodox Church The Great Mosque, originally built by the
of the Virgin Mary (Meryaman Arabs in the 7th century U Behram Paşa Mosque
Kilise), possibly dating back to Behram Paşa Camii
the 4th century. Restored to its building in Diyarbakır, and is Melik Ahmet Cad. Open daily.
former splendour, the Armenian regarded as one of the holiest Closed during prayer times.
Apostolic Church of St George places in the Islamic world. & donation.
(St Giargos Kilesesi) is reckoned It was built on the site of a church Built in 1572 on the orders of
to be one of the largest around AD 639 after the Arabs the governor, Behram Paşa, this
churches in the Middle East. captured the city. In 1091–2, the centrally located mosque is the
Seljuk ruler Malik Şah remodelled city’s largest. The black basalt
P Hasan Paşa Hanı the building, using the revered exterior is enlivened by white
Gazi Cad. Open Mon–Sat. Great Ummayad Mosque in stone banding, and the interior
Located opposite the Great Damascus as a model. is light and graceful. The central
Mosque (Ulu Cami), and built by The interior is spacious and ceiling has a calligraphic frieze
governor Verizade Hasan Paşa, austere, while the courtyard of inlaid mother-of-pearl.
this 16th-century han (see pp28– buildings are built from black
9) is still used by traders, and has basalt with bands of white
some decent jewellery, carpet limestone, faced with blind arches
and antique outlets, and a supported by Roman columns
couple of great places to go interspersed with Seljuk friezes.
to for a traditional Kurdish
breakfast. The black basalt E Ziya Gökalp Museum
façade is dignified by a bold Ziya Gökalp Müzesi
white limestone frieze. Ziya Gökalp Bul. Tel (0412) 228 13 26.
Open 8:30am–noon & 1–5pm
U Great Mosque Tue–Sun. &
Ulu Cami Ziya Gökalp, one of the
Gazi Cad. Open daily. chief ideologues of Turkish
Closed during prayer times. nationalism during the period
A fairly plain building with a of the Young Turks (see p61),
basilica-plan style, the Great was born in Diyarbakır. His Black-and-white banding on the Behram
Mosque is the most significant house is now a museum. Paşa Camii
* 835,000. n Dağ Kapısı Burçu
Giriş Bölümü, (0412) 228 17 06.
_ Watermelon Festival (Sep);
Nevruz (21 Mar); Hıdrellez Festival
celebrating spring migration
(6 May, depending on weather).
Transport
k Kaplaner, 3 km (2 miles) SW of
city centre, (0412) 233 27 19.
£ 10 km (6 miles) W of city
centre, (0412) 221 87 87/87 86.
The impressive walls surrounding the old city
P City Walls studded with 72 towers. Republic in 1937 by the

Diyarbakır Surları The walls are 12 m (39 ft) high citizens of Diyarbakır.
The black walls encircling the and more than 5 km (3 miles) in On display are period
city – said to be visible from length. It is possible to walk along photographs and personal
space – were originally built the top for much of the way. effects. It is situated a few
by the Romans (who captured The most impressive views are kilometres south of the city,
Diyarbakır from the Sassanids from the southern walls, looking off the road to Mardin, and
in the 3rd century AD), since down over the Tigris River has expansive views of the
the city lacked natural defences. winding its way towards Iraq. Tigris and the Dicle Köprüsü
The Byzantines added to the The Tower of the Seven Brothers (Tigris Bridge). Built in 1065
structure, but what can be (Yedi Kardeş Burçu), located on the site of an older
seen today is mainly the work between the Mardin and Urfa structure, the bridge spans
of Seljuks, who captured gates and built in 1208, provides the river in 10 arches.
the city in 1088. a particularly good vantage point.
Constructed from blocks of E Atatürk Villa
black basalt, the walls are pierced Environs Atatürk Köşkü
by four major gates (Harput, The Atatürk Villa was given Open 8:30am–noon & 1:30–5pm
Yenikapı, Mardin and Urfa) and to the founder of the Turkish daily. &
Diyarbakır City Centre

1 Hasan Paşa Hanı
2 Great Mosque
Bus station Zİ
3 Ziya Gökalp Museum 1.5km (1 mile) YA
GÖ
KA
4 Kasım Padişah Mosque LP
BU
5 Behram Paşa Mosque L
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İskender Paşa
Kapısı
CAD
Camii
Great
Airport Mosque
3 km (2 miles) Ziya Hasan
Gökalp Paşa Hanı
Train station
GAZİ
500 metres (550 yards) Museum

Safa Camii Surp Giargos
Urfa Kilisesi
MELİK AHMET
Kapısı CAD Keldanı Fatih Paşa
Kilisesi Camii
YEN
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Mosque Padişah Mosque
Yeni
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Tİ K
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Atatürk Villa
Burçu

9 Lake Van
* 548,000. k 6 km (4 miles) S of
city centre, (0432) 216 10 19. @ Ipek
Yolu, NW of town centre. £ to Tatvan,
(0432) 223 41 38. g 5 km (3 miles)
from town centre. n Cumhuriyet
Cad 105, (0432) 216 20 18.
The startlingly blue waters of

Lake Van (Van Gölü) mirror the
surrounding peaks, the highest
of which soars to a dizzying
4,058 m (13,313 ft). The lake is
seven times larger than Lake
Geneva and may be up to 400 m
(1,312 ft) deep. The lake has a
salinity level well above that of The Rock of Van, with an ancient Urartian citadel at the summit
sea water. It is so alkaline that
locals can wash dirty laundry in city of Van. Although the centre The high point of a visit to the
the lake without the need for lacks historical interest, it has Lake Van area is the exquisite
any soap. plenty of decent restaurants. 10th-century Armenian Church
The Van basin was once the Try the famed Van breakfast, of the Holy Cross (Akdamar
centre of the Urartian civilization which includes clotted cream Kilise), on a small island a few
(contemporaries and foes of the and honey, plus fried eggs and kilometres from the southern
Assyrians). The remnants of their strips of lamb. The region is also shore of the lake. Beautifully
fortified capital straddle the proud of the Van Cat, a rare restored, the exterior boasts a
imposing Rock of Van, located breed of cat noted for having remarkable series of bas-relief
close to the eastern shore of the one blue eye and one amber, carvings and friezes showing
lake. This spectacular rock out- and for demonstrating an biblical scenes. Cruciform
crop, sheer on its southern side, unusual fascination with water. in plan, and just 15 x 12 m
was once the premier settle- (49 x 39 ft) in size, the church
ment of the Kingdom of Urartu. T Rock of Van is topped by a conical roof.
The most obvious remains left Van Kalesi. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm Its classical beauty makes
by this remarkable civilization daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & this church one of the most
are their cuneiform inscriptions, photographed buildings in
seen most obviously on the Environs eastern Anatolia. The frescoes
entrance to the Tomb of Argishti, Çavuştepe, 35 km (22 miles) that adorn the interior walls and
which is reached by steps from southeast of Van, is another cupola are unique in their artistic
near the top of the rock. The Urartian site, with a palace, merit. Following the restoration
remains of an Ottoman mosque sacrificial altar and inscriptions. of the church, services have
now crown the rock, while at its It is best visited en route to the been held, attracting many
feet spread the remnants of old stark and hauntingly beautiful worshippers from both
Van, a walled settlement 17th-century castle at Hoşap, the Armenian community in
destroyed in World War I. A few 60 km (37 miles) from Van on Istanbul and from Armenia itself.
kilometres away is the modern the same road. On the lake’s northwestern
shore is the crescent-shaped
crater lake on Nemrut Dağı (not
the mountain with the statues
near Kâhta) and the Seljuk ceme-
tery and kümbet (domed tombs)
at Ahlat. Both are worth a visit
and can be accessed from Tatvan.
The local cheese, otlu peynir,
is a real delicacy. A whole-milk
cheese flecked with nutritious
and flavoursome mountain
herbs, it is now rarely found
outside the Van area.
5 Church of the Holy Cross

40 km (25 miles) SW of Van.
g from quay, opposite the island.
Frieze on the wall of the Church of the Holy Cross Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
Collosal statues on the Eastern terrace of Mount Nemrut

0 Doğubayazıt
* 73,000. @ Belediye Cad, W of
town centre.
Situated on the main road

between Turkey and Iran,
Doğubayazıt is a half-hour drive
from the border. It is a typically
untidy frontier town, with a
large military base on its eastern
outskirts, and few visitors spend
more than a night here. Mount
Ağrı (Ararat), Turkey’s highest
mountain, rises 5,165 m
(16,945 ft) above the landscape.
Although said to be the resting
place of Noah’s Ark, little
evidence has ever been found
to support this claim. Access is
difficult and prospective
climbers need to obtain İshak Paşa Sarayı, on a hillside southeast of Doğubayazıt
permission from the Ministry of
Culture and Tourism in Ankara q Kars Kars is known for its huge
(see p375) in advance. * 78,000. @ 2 km (1 mile) SE of
wheels of Kaşar, a classic cow’s
The impressive İshak Paşa town centre, (0474) 223 14 45.
milk cheese. One of the city’s
Sarayı lies 8 km (5 miles) £ off Cumhuriyet Cad, (0474) 223 43 gourmet secrets is its Gruyère,
southeast of Dogubayazıt. 99/43 98. k (0474) 223 06 74. which is produced by one
The fortress-like palace was n Cumhuriyet Mah, Lise Sokak 15, cheesemaker using authentic
constructed from honey- (0474) 212 68 17. Swiss techniques.
coloured sandstone by an
Ottoman governor in the late Remote but strategically very E Archaeological Museum
18th century, although the important, Kars is set on a grassy Cumhuriyet Cad 365. Tel (0474) 212
variety of building styles plain that is backed by distant 14 30. Open 8am–noon & 1–5pm
(Ottoman, Persian, Armenian/ peaks. The word kar means Tue–Sun.
Georgian and Seljuk) makes it “snow” in Turkish and winters
difficult to attach an exact date. here are long and cold, while Environs
In Ottoman times, the palace the spring and autumn rains turn Most visitors visit Kars to see
lay on an important caravan streets to mud. The brief summer Ani (see pp320–21), a visually
route, explaining why such an season is hot, dry and dusty. dramatic, ruined 11th-century
opulent structure was erected Founded in the 10th century Armenian city 43 km (27 miles)
in this lonely and remote part by the Armenian King Abas I, away to the east, on the border
of the country. Kars was once a metropolis with Armenia.
The lavish arrangement of 366 of around 100,000 inhabitants.
rooms includes a harem with 14 In 1064, it was captured by
bedrooms, selamlık (men’s the Seljuks, and subsequently
quarters) and a small but came under Georgian and
beautiful mosque, the interior of Ottoman rule. It was held by
which has been badly damaged the Russians from 1878 to 1919,
over the years. A roof made of and the grid plan and numerous
steel and glass has now been run-down Neo-Classical houses
installed to preserve the are significant reminders of
structure. Ottoman and Russian their presence here.
troops have occupied İshak Paşa The citadel (Kars Kalesi)
Sarayı at various times. was built by the Ottomans, as
Nearby attractions, best was the 15th-century Taş Köprü
visited on a dolmuş tour from (stone bridge) over the River
Dogubayazıt, are the sulphur Kars. The 10th-century
springs at Diyadin, and the Armenian Church of the
Meteor Çukuru (meteor crater), Apostles is today a mosque.
just before the Iranian border. The small Archaeological
Museum, just east of the town
E İshak Paşa Sarayı centre, is surprisingly good,
Open 9am–noon & 1–5:30pm particularly its displays of kilims The citadel at Kars, overlooking a
Tue–Sun. & (rugs) and carpets. Turkish bath
w Ani
The ruined city of Ani, on the border with Armenia,
is one of the most evocative historical sites in
Turkey. Set on a windswept, grassy plateau along
the Barley River (Arpa Çayı), the site contains
important remnants of Armenian architecture,
including the city walls protecting its northern
border, parts of which are still intact.
In 961, Ani became the capital of the Bagratid kings
of Armenia. It reached its apogee under King Gagik I
(990–1020), when it was known as “the city of a
thousand and one churches”. Sacked by the Turks in
1064, Ani eventually recovered, only to be razed by
an earthquake in 1319.
Located on the sensitive Turkish-Armenian border,
parts of the site are off-limits to visitors – stick to the
marked trail. Photography is also restricted, so avoid
pointing your camera across the border.
. Church of St Gregory
(of Abugramentz)
This 12-sided rotunda is
one of three churches
dedicated to St Gregory.
View from Menücehir Mosque

This bridge, now ruined, spanned the Barley
River (Arpa Çayı) in a single arch 30 m
(32 yards) in length. The river demarcates
the border between Turkey and Armenia.
Citadel
The Citadel is the oldest
part of Ani and housed
most of its residents
until 961, when the KEY
Bagratids moved their
capital here from 1 Maiden’s Castle
Kars. It contains the 2 City Walls
ruined palace of
the Bagratid kings. 3 Church of St Gregory (of Gagik)
4 Ruined Bridge
. City Walls VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Double walls protect the
northern side of the city. Practical Information
Built of rubble, they are 44 km (27 miles) E of Kars.
faced with basalt blocks. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily
(heavy snow in winter may restrict
access). & Tickets available from
Ani entrance.
Church of the Redeemer

This partially collapsed church
was built in 1036 as a domed
rotunda to house a fragment
of the True Cross.
A conical roof once rested

on the cylindrical drum.
. Ani Cathedral
The Cathedral at Ani is still The roof
is made
intact, although the drum
of stone
has collapsed. Founded
shingles.
by King Smbat II in the late
10th century, it became the
Fethiye Mosque in 1064, but
was returned to Christian
worship in 1124.
High windows
illuminated
the interior of
the cathedral.
The apse is
Four columns lined with semi-
supported circular niches.
the drum.
The west entrance The south entrance,
was used by the reserved for the king, was
citizens of Ani. one of three entrances.
e Erzurum
Sprawling across a vast plain at an altitude of almost 2,000 m
(6,560 ft) and ringed by mountains, Erzurum is Turkey’s
coldest city. It is also by far the most developed city in the
region. Because it was located astride the main caravan route
from India to Europe, and controlled the passage between
the Caucasus and Anatolia, Erzurum was fought over and ruled
by many peoples – Byzantines, Sassanids, Arabs, Armenians,
Seljuk Turks, Mongols and Ottomans. Its most famous sights
The ornate entrance portal of the
date from Seljuk times. Like Kars, the city was in Russian
Yakutiye Seminary
hands for over 40 years. In 1919, Atatürk’s Nationalists met
here to map out the frontiers of modern Turkey. P Citadel
Kale
Exploring Erzurum to a typical square-plan design, N of Çifte Minareli Medresesi.
Erzurum has a university and a with columns and cupolas Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily;
large garrison population. It hosts a around a courtyard with Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. &
rough-and-ready horseback a fountain. Original tile work The citadel was built in the 5th
competition (cirit), which involves adorns the interior. century, during the reign of
throwing a spear at a target. Byzantine Emperor Theodosius.
U Yakutiye Seminary It was restored in 1555 by Sultan
E Archaeological Museum Yakutiye Medrese Süleyman I (the Magnificent)
Arkeoloji Müzesi Cumhuriyet Cad. Open 8am–noon and served as the eastern base
Paşalar Cad 11. Tel (0442) 233 04 14. & 1–5pm Tue–Sun. & of the Janissaries (see p60). Inside
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Built in 1310 by Hoca Yakut, is a ruined clocktower and also
Nov–Mar: 8am–5pm daily. & governor of the İlhan Mongols, a mosque. There are fine views
Exhibits here range from Urartian this ornate Koranic school is over the city from the walls.
metalwork and pottery to regarded as the city’s most
the jewellery and glassware of beautiful building. The carved U Twin Minaret Seminary
the Hellenistic and Roman eras. stonework around the entrance Çifte Minareli Medresesi
is very appealing and the short Cumhuriyet Cad.
U Lala Mustafa Paşa Mosque minaret features an elaborate Open 8am–5pm daily. &
Cumhuriyet Caddesi. Open daily. & lattice of brick and turquoise The two minarets that flank
This charming Ottoman tiles. The building houses the the portal of the Çifte Minareli
mosque, built in 1562, conforms Museum of Islamic Artefacts. Medresesi have become the
Erzurum City Centre

Train station
1 Archaeological Museum 1 km (0.6 miles)
2 Lala Mustafa Paşa Mosque KAPI CA

RAL D
3 Yakutiye Seminary GU
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4 Citadel CA
A
AS
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5 Twin Minaret Seminary AZ

P
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6 Three Tombs
Airport
İT
10 km (6 miles)
MEN
PA
Bus station
ZAB I
1.5 km (1 mile)
MU
H A S TA
CA
Ç AY
M CU
D
KARA
NELER
Lala Mustafa
CA
Pasa Mosque Citadel

CAD
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CAD
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Seminary
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ERZİNCAN EN CAD
NASUHİ BİLM
ŞEYH
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PAŞA C A D
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Three Tombs
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KOS EK C AD

* 385,000. n Cemal Gürsel
Caddesi 9, (0442) 233 71 99 and
235 09 25. _ Atatürk Congress
and Festival (23 Jul).
( most days.
Transport
k 10 km (6 miles) NE of city
centre, (0442) 327 28 35. @ 3 km
(2 miles) NW of city centre.
£ 1 km (0.5 mile) N of city centre.
symbols of Erzurum. They are

thought to have been built in
1253 on the authority of Hunat
Hatun, daughter of Seljuk Sultan
Alaeddin Keykubad II. At the
rear of the complex is the
12-sided cylinder tomb that The gorge of the Euphrates (Firat) near Kemaliye
contains her remains.
r Erzincan Ottoman times. The Village
* 280,118. n Atatürk Mah, Bariş
Life Museum in Ocakköyü, near
Manço Parkı içi, Kültür Sitesi, (0446) Kemaliye, is the only private
214 30 79 or 223 06 71. ethnographic museum in Turkey.
Erzincan’s history has been E Village Life Museum

marked by earthquakes, notably Köy Müzesi
in 1939 and 1992. It was once Ocakköyü. Tel (0446) 754 40 65.
considered one of Turkey’s most Open 9am–noon & 1–5pm Tue–Sun.
impressive cities, but rebuilding
work over the years has left it
with few historic attractions. t Divriği
Erzincan’s specialities include
* 18,000. @ S of town centre,
decorative copperware and
on road to Elaziğ. £ from Sivas,
tulum peynır, and a cheese Erzincan or Malatya.
made from raw milk and sold
encased in a sheep skin. After the Seljuk victory at
Manzikert (Malazgirt) in 1071
Twin Minaret Seminary Environs (see p56), Divriği became
Altıntepe (Golden the seat of the
P Three Tombs Hill), a Urartian site Mengüçek state and
Üç Kümbet 27 km (17 miles) was ruled by the
S of Twin Minaret Seminary. east of Erzincan, Mengüç family
Open daily. dates from around from 1142 to 1252.
Built by the Seljuks, the oldest 700 BC. Many of the Among many fine
of these conical mausoleums objects found here buildings they left
dates from the early 12th are now on display in Carving detail, behind is the külliye
century. It is distinguished Ankara’s Museum of Divriği (mosque-hospital
by the use of contrasting light Anatolian Civilizations complex), the best
and dark stone and by its (see p246–7). One of the best example of 13th-century Seljuk
truncated cone. of these is a bronze cauldron stonecarving in Turkey, and now
with handles in the shape a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Environs of bulls’ heads. The ornate portals of the Ulu
Erzurum has a reliable ski The little town of Kemaliye Cami, or Great Mosque (built
season that runs from (formerly known as Eğin) lies in around 1229) and the adjoining
November to May. Palandöken the Munzur Mountains not far daruşşifa (hospital) – easy to spot
Ski Centre (see p388), situated from Erzincan. Founded in the as you come into town – display
8 km (5 miles) southwest of the 11th century, Kemaliye’s exceptionally rich decoration.
city centre, has several hotels pebbled streets, wild streams
and six ski lifts serving 30 km and trim wooden buildings offer U Ulu Cami
(19 miles) of piste. a charming snapshot of life in Open during prayer times daily.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 326–339

Where to Eat and Drink 340–361
Shopping in Turkey 362–367
Entertainment in Turkey 368–371
Outdoor Activities and
Specialist Holidays 372–377
326 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Whether you wish to stay in an Ottoman notably Safranbolu (see pp272–3), offer
sultan’s opulent palace, a quaint yalı accommodation in restored mansions and
(traditional wooden waterfront mansion) family homes around the historic town
on the Bosphorus or in a comfortable family centre. The choice of hotels in Turkey’s
home, it is fairly easy to find the accom- eastern provinces is more restricted,
modation of your choice in Turkey. The though accommodation options in all
country’s hotels and guesthouses cater for price ranges are steadily improving. The
a wide range of budgets and, in general, hotel listings provided on pp330–39 will
these are found clustered around the main help visitors to find accommodations to
sightseeing areas. Some of the old towns, suit all budgets.
Choosing a Hotel
Many hotels in Turkey are rated
by the Ministry of Tourism
according to a star system –
from one to five – with five stars
representing the most luxurious.
However, try not to make a
choice exclusively on the basis
of star ratings – the comfort
and service levels may vary
regardless of such ratings
based on technical criteria.
Most hotels can be easily
reached by public transport
from the airport, bus or train
station. With advance notice, The impressive lobby of the Zorlu Grand Hotel, Trabzon (see p338)
many hotels will also ferry
guests to and from the airport. In Turkey you may come across dancing. Most hotels will gladly
A lot of hotels in resort areas “Special Class” hotels. These are arrange city or boating tours,
close from late October to March generally considered to be as well as day trips to local
or April. Check when booking establishments that comply attractions. Visitors can also
or on the hotel’s website. Most with strict standards of hospitality organize these trips personally
hotels also have direct reser- and service. So, even if it is listed to get reasonably lower rates.
vation pages on their websites. as a pansiyon (pension), the A good reference point for
Summer is hot and humid comfort levels, decor and food plush properties is The Luxury
in the southern coastal areas, will be first-rate. It is advisable Hotels of Turkey, an organization
so it is worth paying extra for to book well in advance at that offers an exclusive selection
an air-conditioned room. Water these establishments. of luxury establishments – the
shortages are not uncommon, Turkish counterpart of “World’s
and in cheaper hotels reliant Leading Hotels”.
on solar heating hot water may Luxury Hotels
run out at busy times. Upmarket international hotel
chains are well Holiday Villages
represented in Istanbul, The coastal areas of Turkey have
Ankara, İzmir and other numerous holiday villages and
large cities. Almost all self-contained resorts (many of
five-star hotels offer fine them all-inclusive) that offer a
views over the city or full range of holiday options for
the Bosphorus, in the visitors, usually with access to
case of Istanbul. their private stretch of beach.
Luxury hotels also Staying in a holiday village can
typically have pools, be very economical, especially
fitness and health facilities, for families with children, as the
hamams (Turkish baths) activities on offer are included
and conference facilities. in the price of the holiday.
Resort hotels and holiday Most holiday villages offer
villages feature nightly programmes for children, as
The Baylo Suites’ garden terrace boasts superb entertainment, such as well as babysitting services
views of the Golden Horn (see p331) traditional music and and nightly entertainment.
Restaurants and cafés under the Galata Bridge which spans the Golden Horn, Istanbul
W H E R E TO S TAY 327
but many hotels offer

connecting rooms or family
suites that can accommodate
four people.
Most multistorey hotels
have lifts but this will
not be the case in older
buildings converted into
boutique hotels. Facilities
for wheelchair users and
other disabled guests are
also only found in the more
expensive hotels.
Noise can be quite a
problem in downtown
areas, even in the luxury
Beautifully decorated suite at the Museum Hotel in Uçhisar (see p338) hotels, so be sure to ask
for a quiet room when you
Budget Hotels In Istanbul, most such hotels make your reservation.
There is a wide range of are found in the older quarters, All hotels must provide floors
inexpensive accommodation and give guests a chance to or sections where smoking
in Turkey, from hotels and experience closely the lifestyle is forbidden – all public areas
motels to family-run of the late Ottoman era. are non-smoking by law.
pensions (pansiyons). Cappadocia is another region The price of the room
Some of the budget hotels where some outstanding usually includes breakfast
are not rated by the Ministry boutique hotels can be found and this will be either a set
of Tourism but by the local clustered together. Turkish breakfast that includes
municipality, whose standards The Association of Small fresh bread, butter, jam, soft
depend on the region. Hotels pulls together a white cheese, tomatoes,
Therefore, when choosing one refined group of boutique cucumbers and black olives,
of these hotels, take care not to hotels, and offers booking or a self-service buffet with
make a decision solely on the facilities online. more choice. Coastal hotels
basis of what you see in the and holiday villages offer half-
newly renovated lobby; it is board, with an evening meal
always best to see if the carpet What to Expect thrown in. This is usually
runs past the first stairs. Most In the popular regions, front another buffet spread.
budget hotels provide only desk staff can be expected Internet access is widespread.
minimal services, which could to speak English, but this Most of the hotels across the
mean communal rather than is less likely when staying country offer high-speed
private washing facilities. in more remote areas. Wi-Fi either for free or for
A far better option than a The average rooms may not an additional charge.
one-star hotel is a pansiyon. be very spacious, especially
The vast majority of these are for those travelling with
family-run establishments family. Single occupancy
offering friendly, good-value rooms can be difficult to
accommodation. Most have find, and travellers
comfortable rooms with air- requiring a single
conditioning, television and room usually end
en-suite facilities. up paying for single
occupancy in a
double or twin
Boutique Hotels room. A double bed
Boutique hotels are usually is usually queen-sized.
historic buildings that have King-sized beds are
been restored and transformed rare, except at
into quaint hotels full of international five-star
character. Or, they may have hotels, and in some
outstanding features such boutique hotels.
as unique architecture, A triple room is
innovative design, artistic usually a double room
value, an exceptional view or with enough space
an excellent location. Facilities for a cot, a roll-out
may vary from the grand and or a divan. Quads are
luxurious to the more basic. almost unheard of, Yeşil Ev, a boutique hotel in Istanbul (see p330)
Tips for the staff are always

appreciated. A few dollars
should suffice for junior
personnel, while a little more is
good for the front desk if they
have done something special.
Remember that phone calls and
minibar drinks are additional
charges that can increase the
overall bill substantially.
Children
In most hotels, children up
to the age of six years can stay
The elegant reception area at the Ferahi Evler Butik Otel, Ayvalık (see p333) in their parents’ room at no
extra charge. Many hotels also
Prices and Discounts prebooked accommodation, offer up to 50 per cent discount
Hotel prices are quoted per or you have changed your for 12- to 15-year-olds sharing a
room, not per person in Turkish itinerary to get off the beaten room with their parents.
lira, euros or US dollars. track, visit any of the tourist Some smaller boutique-style
Bargaining when booking a information offices to inquire hotels may not take children
room is perfectly acceptable, about available places to stay. under 12 years, so check when
and discounts are often Tourist offices can also give booking. Cots for babies are
available if you pay in cash or you advice on approximate willingly provided even by
book ahead online. Luxury prices. Don’t be shy about mid-range hotels. Children’s
hotels may also offer a discount looking around, seeing rooms menus are usually available
to business travellers; ask for the and comparing prices. in family resort areas and
corporate rate. In general, your If travelling with an organized holiday villages. In Turkey,
success in bargaining will tour group, your agent should children generally eat when
depend on how busy the hotel handle all the arrangements. their parents do and they also
is at the time. Expect to pay tend to stay up late, particularly
premium prices during religious during the hot summer months.
or national holidays, when Checking Out and
virtually all accommodation is Paying
booked. Check individual hotel Guests are expected to check Hostels
websites to find their latest out by noon, but on request Hostels are a budget option
discounts and promotions – most hotels will agree to hold worth exploring. Turkey has
hotels usually offer their best luggage for collection later. a growing number of decent
rates on the Internet. Except for the very remote hostels welcoming travellers
or low-cost establishments, of all ages. Membership to
most hotels listed in this guide these establishments is not
Booking a Room accept major international required. Hostels are usually
It is always a good idea to book credit cards. Travellers’ cheques, clustered in Istanbul’s Old Town
early, especially in Istanbul or however, are almost obsolete. and other popular destinations,
other popular destinations, and Value-added tax (VAT) including the smaller resort
during high season between is known as KDV in Turkish towns such as Çanakkale and
May and October. Telephone (see p384) and is generally Fethiye. They generally offer
and email bookings are both included in the price of a room. basic comforts in shared
accepted. If you haven’t When registering at a hotel, dormitories; however, many
you may be also have private rooms with
asked for your or without private facilities.
credit card, The majority of hostels have
which will then be a good range of amenities,
swiped through including free Wi-Fi and
an authorization breakfast. Some also organize
machine. Sign local tours and excursions.
the transaction Hostel World is an international
form and the booking portal with a good
card is then listing of Turkish hostels.
resubmitted for The major advantages of
payment when using a hostel are that you
Luxurious room at the Hilton Bursa, with views of Bursa City your account are guaranteed to meet like-
and the Uludağ Mountains (see p332) is settled. minded travellers.
Camping and
Caravanning DIRECTORY
Caravanning and camping Luxury Hotels
holidays are becoming The Luxury Hotels
increasingly popular and many of Turkey
new areas are being developed ∑ turing.org.tr
into well-equipped, highly
organized camp sites that Boutique Hotels
provide ample space for tents
or trailers, as well as for washing Association of Small Hotels
∑ smallhotels.com.tr
or other facilities.
However, visitors should note
Hostels
that camping is only allowed
in designated areas, so be sure A quaint, old-fashioned pension in the back Hostel World
to check with the Turkish streets of Selçuk ∑ hostelworld.com/hostels/
Camping and Caravanning Turkey
Association, who will be able Recommended Hotels
to provide a comprehensive list The hotel listings in this book Camping and
of approved sites. offer a selection of places to stay Caravanning
Parking a caravan or pitching throughout the country across Turkish Camping and
a tent on any deserted beach, or a range of budgets. Divided Caravanning Association
simply pulling over to the side into eight geographical areas Bestekar Sok 62/12,
of the road in a caravan, is corresponding to the chapters Kavaklıdere, Ankara.
strongly discouraged. in this guide, the entries are then Tel (0312) 466 19 97.
In some parts of the country, organized by town and price. Istanbul Cad, Pelin Iş Hani K3
cozy, furnished bungalows may The accommodation options 91–92, Bakırköy, Istanbul.
be available for self-catered hol- have been selected for their Tel (0212) 571 42 44.
idays in a natural environment. excellent facilities and value for ∑ kampkaravan.org.tr
money and cover a diverse array
of places to stay from no-frills
Self-catering budget options to luxury missing extravagances found
Most major cities and coastal properties that take hospitality in the larger chain hotels.
resorts in Turkey have plenty standards to a high level. These establishments often
of apartments for short-term Choose from historic hotels only have a handful of rooms,
rental. Pensions, too, often that exude the charm of a so it’s worth booking in advance.
include cooking facilities, but bygone era or opt for strikingly Entries highlighted as
these are usually shared with designed modern hotels that DK Choice offer something
other guests. For tax reasons, offer all the latest conveniences extra special. They may be
many self-catering apartments and amenities. To enjoy the nestled within beautiful
do not advertise openly, and comforts of home, try a family- surroundings, be in historically
word of mouth is the best way to run pension (pansiyon). important buildings, have a
locate these places. This is not Boutique hotels are usually noteworthy sustainable
the case in Istanbul and Ankara. smaller establishments that outlook, be incredibly
Some travel agents have lists of offer a unique stay. Amenities charming or offer exceptional
apartments that they own and may be limited in some, but service. Whatever the reason,
maintain. These are available for the experience and warm staff it is a guarantee of a
self-catering holidays. more than make up for the memorable stay.
Brightly coloured façade of the Kybele Hotel, Istanbul (see p330)

Where to Stay
friendly service. Enjoy delicious Price Guide
Istanbul food and a glass of wine at the Prices are based on one night's stay in
lovely terrace restaurant. high season for a standard double room,
Seraglio Point inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Gulhane Park Hotel ¨¨ Sultan Hostel ¨ ¨ under ¨250
Modern Map 5 E3 Hostel Map 5 E5 ¨¨ ¨250 to ¨400
¨¨¨ over ¨400
Nöbethane Cad 1, 34112 Sirkeci Akbıyık Cad 17, 34122
Tel (0212) 519 68 68 Tel (0212) 516 92 60
∑ gulhaneparkhotel.com.tr ∑ sultanhostel.com Ottoman Hotel Imperial ¨¨
Overlooking the Topkapı Palace A backpacker’s haven. Helpful staff, Boutique Map 5 E4
gardens, facilities at this hotel neat dormitories and private Caferiye Sok 6/1, 34400
include a gym and hamam. rooms. Close to all the main sights, Tel (0212) 513 61 51
and there is even a pub downstairs. ∑ ottomanhotelimperial.com
Neorion Hotel ¨¨¨ Sheer opulence; some rooms
Modern Map 5 E3 Dersaadet ¨¨ have private hamams and close-
Orhanıye Sok 14, Sirkeci, 34112 Boutique Map 5 D5 up views of Haghia Sophia.
Tel (0212) 527 90 90 Küçük Ayasofya Cad, Kapıağası
∑ neorionhotel.com Sok 5, 34400 Spectra ¨¨
Enjoy great views and breakfast Tel (0212) 458 07 60 Boutique Map 5 D5
at the roof terrace or relax at the ∑ dersaadethotel.com Şehit Mehmetpaşa Yokuşu 2, 34400
pool or sauna. Wonderful service. Impressive wooden Ottoman Tel (0212) 516 35 46
mansion near the Blue Mosque. ∑ hotelspectra.com
Turkish carpets run throughout. A converted Ottoman house with
Sultanahmet all the basic amenities at good
Akdenız Hotel Guest House ¨ Hippodrome Hotel ¨¨ prices. Comfortable, no-frills rooms,
Budget Map 5 D4 Boutique Map 5 E4 most with views of Hippodrome
Divanyolu Cad, Haci Tahsin Bey Mimar Mehmet Ağa Cad 38, 34400 Square and the Blue Mosque.
Sok 7, 34410 Tel (0212) 517 68 89
Tel (0212) 520 20 99 ∑ hippodromehotel.com
∑ istanbulakdenizhotel.com A wide range of rooms to choose DK Choice
A modest hotel up a flight of stairs from, including an apartment that White House Hotel ¨¨
with clean, comfortable rooms. can accommodate six adults. Boutique Map 5 E4
It is located close to the T1 tram. Çatalçeşme Sok 21, 34110
Tel (0212) 526 00 19
Aruna ¨ DK Choice ∑ istanbulwhitehouse.com
Boutique Map 5 E5 The Kybele Hotel ¨¨ Gorgeous golden colours
Cankurtaran Mah, Ahirkapi Boutique Map 5 E4 make this lovely hotel stand
Sok 74, 34122 Yerebatan Cad 23, 34410 out. The rooms are elegant and
Tel (0212) 458 54 88 Tel (0212) 511 77 66 well decorated. Enjoy breakfast
∑ arunahotel.com ∑ kybelehotel.com on the terrace, with views
Inviting hotel with sauna and Although decorated with of the Bosphorus. Free Wi-Fi.
hamam. Suites have private 4,000 coloured-glass lamps,
Jacuzzis. Good breakfast spread. rich fabric and wallpaper, this
wooden town house never Yeşil Ev ¨¨
Cheers Hostel ¨ feels kitch or over done. The Boutique Map 5 E4
Hostel Map 4 B4 relaxing ambience and friendly Kabasakal Cad 5, 34122
Zeynep Kamil Sok 21, 34400 staff ensure a great stay. Tel (0212) 517 67 85
Tel (0212) 526 02 00 ∑ yesilev.com.tr
∑ cheershostel.com Velvet curtains and oil paintings
Situated in the heart of the old city, adorn attractive rooms. In summer,
this hostel offers comfortable dorms, breakfast is served in the garden.
private rooms and a roof top bar
with great views of Haghia Sophia. Aren Suites ¨¨¨
Boutique Map 5 D5
Hotel Nomade ¨ Küçük Ayasofya Cad,
Boutique Map 5 E4 Gelinlik Sok 13, 34122
Ticarethane Sok 15, 34410 Tel (0212) 517 31 26
Tel (0212) 513 81 72 ∑ arensuites.com
∑ hotelnomade.com Rooms are stylish and kept
Well-appointed rooms with a meticulously clean. The terrace
cosy atmosphere. Enjoy breakfast and many of the rooms overlook
or drinks on the terrace. the Sea of Marmara.
Hotel Sultanahmet ¨ Ayasofya Konakları ¨¨¨

Budget Map 5 D4 Boutique Map 5 E4
Divanyolu Cad 20, 34110 Soğukçeşme Sok, 34400
Tel (0212) 527 02 39 Tel (0212) 513 36 00
∑ hotelsultanahmet.com ∑ ayasofyakonaklari.com
Inexpensive hotel with lovely The bright-yellow building of the Ottoman A leafy cobbled street leads to
views, a great location and Hotel Imperial sits in front of Haghia Sophia nine wooden 19th-century
Ottoman mansions with basic

rooms. Relax at the pretty Beyoğlu
courtyard café.
Blue House–Mavi Ev ¨¨¨ DK Choice

Boutique Map 5 E5 #Bunk ¨
Dalbasti Sok 14, 34110 Budget Map 1 A4
Tel (0212) 638 90 10 Balik Sok 7, 34435
∑ bluehouse.com.tr Tel (0212) 244 88 08
Family-run hotel with tasteful ∑ bunkhostels.com
rooms. The suites have great Launched by an international
views of the Sea of Marmara. group of friends, #Bunk is
a unique establishment offering
Deluxe Golden Horn Hotel ¨¨¨ low-cost accommodation
Boutique Map 5 D4 with a seriously cool design.
Binbirdirek Meydanı Sok 1, 34400 They also sell their own brand Many coloured-glass lamps adorn the ceiling
Tel (0212) 518 17 17 of quirky T-shirts. of a room at the Kybele Hotel (see p330)
∑ deluxegoldenhornhotel.com
The ambience at this hotel is Istanbul! Place ¨¨¨
reminiscent of the Orient Express Chill Out Hostel and Cafe ¨ Apartments Map 1 A5
era. Ornately decorated lobby. Budget Map 1 A5 Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad, Galata, 34430
Balyoz Sok 3, 34445 Tel (0772) 925 16 76
Four Seasons Sultanahmet ¨¨¨ Tel (0212) 249 47 84 ∑ istanbulplace.com
Historic Map 5 E4 ∑ chillouthostelistanbul.com A range of beautifully restored
Tevkifhane Sok 1, 34110 No curfew, friendly staff and a period apartments located in the
Tel (0212) 402 30 00 choice of private rooms or dorms. fashionable neighbourhoods of
∑ fourseasons.com/istanbul Close to the best nightlife spots. Galata and Beyoğlu. Friendly service.
This top-notch hotel is housed in
an old and atmospheric Ottoman Adahan Istanbul ¨¨ The Marmara Taksim ¨¨¨
prison building. Herb-scented Historic Map 1 A5 Modern Map 1 B3
courtyard and good restaurants. General Yazgan Sok 14, 34430 Taksim Meydani, 34437
Tel (0212) 243 85 81 Tel (0212) 251 46 96
Hagia Sophia Hotel Istanbul ∑ adahanistanbul.com ∑ taksim.themarmarahotels.com
Old City ¨¨¨ Sensitively restored hotel with a Landmark hotel towering over
Modern Map 5 E4 homely feel, in the heart of the much of the modern city. Great
Yerebatan Cad 13, 34110 European Quarter. views from the gym and pool area.
Tel 444 93 32
∑ hsoldcity.com Palazzo Donizetti ¨¨¨
A surprisingly sleek option in DK Choice Historic Map 1 A5
the heart of the Old City with an Baylo Suites ¨¨ Asmali Mescit Sok 55, 34400
English-style pub. Apartments Map 5 D1 Tel (0212) 249 51 51
Galata Kulesi Sok 24, 34420 ∑ palazzodonizetti.com
Ibrahim Pasha ¨¨¨ Tel (0212) 245 98 60/61
0 Similar to a European château,
Boutique Map 5 D4 ∑ baylosuites.com Palazzo Donizetti is all about
Terzihane Sok 5, 34110 Four individually decorated elegance and luxury.
Tel (0212) 518 03 94 apartments inside a historic
∑ ibrahimpasha.com 19th-century Galata building, Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah ¨¨¨
Stylish and well-run hotel housed lovingly restored by a mother- Historic Map 1 A5
in a pair of atmospheric town daughter team. Energy-saving Meşrutiyet Cad 52, Tepebaşı, 34430
houses located just a few metres systems have been installed Tel (0212) 377 40 00
away from the Hippodrome. throughout the building. ∑ jumeirah.com
Wonderful views from the
Wonderful The elegant suites here are named
Pierre Loti Hotel ¨¨¨ terrace. Booking is required for after famous guests such as
Modern Map 5 D4 a minimum
minimum of three nights' stay. Agatha Christie and Hemingway.
Piyer Loti Cad 1, 34400
Tel (0212) 518 57 00 Sub Hotel ¨¨¨
∑ pierrelotihotel.com Galata Flats ¨¨ Boutique Map 5 E1
A range of well-designed rooms Apartments Map 1 A5 Necatibey Cad 91, Karaköy, 34435
ensure a comfortable and hassle- Tünel Meydani 84, 34430 Tel (0212) 243 00 05
free stay. Excellent spa and hamam Tel (0212) 244 26 76 ∑ subkarakoy.com
facilities on site. Scenic views. ∑ galataflats.com An ultra-stylish hotel with well-
Comfortable apartments that are appointed rooms. It also has a roof-
serviced daily. The larger options top bar and serves a hearty organic
The Bazaar Quarter have terraces and balconies. breakfast buffet spread. Free Wi-Fi.
Antik Cisterna ¨¨
Historic Map 4 C4 Georges Hotel Galata ¨¨¨ Witt Istanbul Suites ¨¨¨
Sekbanbaşı Sok 10, 34130 Boutique Map 1 A5 Boutique Map 1 B5
Tel (0212) 638 58 58 Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad 24, 34425 Defterdar Yokuşu 26, Cihangir, 34433
∑ antikhotel.com Tel (0212) 244 24 23 Tel (0212) 293 15 00
An extraordinary hotel with a ∑ georges.com ∑ wittistanbul.com
fascinating history – the restau- Set in a grand old town house, One of the city's first designer hotels
rant is set in a basement cistern, Georges Hotel Galata offers first- Witt Istanbul Suites has enormous
which dates back to 450–500 AD. rate services and stunning views. rooms with retro design touches.
For more information on types of hotels see p329
BURSA:
Marigold Thermal Spa Hotel ¨¨
Boutique
1 Murat Cad 47, Çekirge,
Osmangazi, 16070
Tel 444 40 00
∑ marigold.com.tr
A thermal therapy hotel on a
hilltop. Rooms are large with
comfortable beds.
EDIRNE: Aksaray Hotel ¨

Budget
Alipaşa Ortakapı Cad 8
Tel (0284) 225 68 06
Luxurious Turkish hammam at the Hilton Bursa Convention Center & Spa, Bursa ∑ hoteledirnepalace.com
Located in the centre of the
Further Afield DK Choice town, this charming 19th-
Kariye Hotel ¨ Sumahan on the Water ¨¨¨ century town house offers
Boutique Historic modest rooms.
Kariye Camii Sok 6, Edirnekapi, Kuleli Cad 51, 34684
34080 Tel (0216) 422 80 00 EDIRNE: Edirne Antik Hotel ¨
Tel (0212) 534 84 14 ∑ sumahan.com Boutique
∑ kariyeotel.com A multi-award-winning gem Marif Cad 6, Kaleiçi, 22030
Tastefully restored 19th-century in a converted distillery. Tel (0284) 225 15 55
mansion close to the famous Every room boasts superb ∑ edirneantikhotel.com
Chora Church, near the city walls. sea views and some open This is a delightful hotel in the
onto a lawn terrace. Unwind historic centre and has a small
Çırağan Palace Kempinski ¨¨¨ at the fully equipped spa or on-site restaurant.
Historic grab a bite at the excellent
Çırağan Cad, Beşiktaş, 34349 on-site restaurant. EDIRNE: Otel Şimşek ¨
Tel (0212) 258 33 77 Budget
∑ kempinski.com Trakya Üniversitesi Tıp Fakültesi
The only hotel in Istanbul Karşısı, 22000
set in a royal Ottoman palace. Tel (0284) 236 60 00
Waterside terrace and heated Thrace and the ∑ hotelsimsek.com.tr
infinity pool. Located just across from the
Sea of Marmara university campus, this hotel
includes a playground for kids
DK Choice BURSA: Atlas Termal ¨ and a simple fitness centre.
The Edition ¨¨¨ Budget
Luxury Hamamlar Cad 35, Çekirge, 16070 EDIRNE: Taş Odalar Hotel ¨
Büyükdere Cad 136, 34330 Tel (0224) 234 41 00 Historic
Tel (0212) 317 77 00 ∑ atlasotel.com.tr Selimiye Camii Arkası
∑ editionhotels.com Traditionally decorated Merkez, 22000
Enter a private world of luxury comfortable rooms, a good Tel (0284) 212 35 29
in the heart of Istanbul’s busy restaurant and two Turkish baths ∑ tasodalar.com
business district. There is a make this an ideal spa hotel. A 15th-century mansion
stunning full-floor penthouse converted into a lovely hotel.
and a top-notch restaurant. Ottoman sultan Mehmet II was
Good transport connections DK Choice born here.
to the main tourist sites. BURSA: Kitap Evi Hotel ¨
Boutique İZNIK: Cem Otel ¨
Kavaklı Mah, Burç Üstü 21, 16040 Budget
Hilton Istanbul ¨¨¨ Tel (0224) 225 41 60 Mustafa Kemal Paşa Mah, Göl Sahili
Modern ∑ kitapevi.com.tr Cad 34, 16860
Cumhuriyet Cad, Harbiye, 34367 Choose from 13 comfortable Tel (0224) 757 16 87
Tel (0212) 315 60 00 rooms at this delightful place. ∑ cemotel.com
∑ placeshilton.com The rooms are all charming and This hotel offers simple rooms,
The Hilton group’s first step uniquely decorated. There is an some with lake views. The
outside the USA – hence the elegant restaurant on site that on-site restaurant serves
footprint-shaped swimming pool. opens onto a beautiful garden. superb food.
All rooms have private balconies.
İZNIK: İznik Otel ¨
The House Hotel Bosphorus ¨¨¨ BURSA: Hilton Bursa Budget
Boutique Convention Center & Spa ¨¨ Selçuk Mah, Göl Sahil Yolu 22,
Salhane Sok 1, Ortaköy, 34347 Modern Liman Karşısı, 16860
Tel (0212) 327 77 87 Yeni Yalova Cad 347, 16210 Tel (0224) 757 22 55
∑ thehousehotel.com Tel (0224) 500 05 05 ∑ iznikotel.com
This hotel is a favourite with ∑ bursa.hilton.com This no-frills hotel is set beside
celebrities and is located A 35-floor tower hotel boasting İznik Lake. It offers basic rooms,
close to the city’s most an ultra-smart spa. Good gym with air conditioning and
exclusive nightspots. facilities and excellent service. free Wi-Fi.
Key to Price Guide see p330
BODRUM: ÇANAKKALE: Kervansaray ¨

The Aegean The Marmara Bodrum ¨¨ Boutique
Boutique Fetvahane Sok 13
ASSOS: Assosyal Butik Otel ¨¨ Yokusbaşı Mah, Suluhasan Tel (0286) 217 81 92
Budget Cad 18, 48400 ∑ kervansarayhotel.com
Alan Meydani, 8 Behramkale, 17860, Tel (0252) 999 10 10 Housed in a 19th-century brick
Çanakkale ∑ bodrum.themarmarahotels.com mansion, this is a comfortable
Tel (0286) 721 70 46 Rooms boast breathtaking views and well-organized hotel.
∑ assosyalotel.com of the city and the castle and
A small but beautifully maintained there is an art gallery in the lobby. ÇANAKKALE:
hotel offering great views of Hotel des Etrangers ¨¨
Edremit Bay. BODRUM: Boutique
Vogue Hotel Bodrum ¨¨¨ Yalı Cad 25–27
ASSOS: Nazlıhan Hotel ¨¨ Luxury Tel (0286) 214 24 24
Budget Bodrum, Milas, Torba, 48400 ∑ hoteldesetrangers.com
Behramkale Köyü Antik İskele Mevkii Tel (0252) 337 10 70 This 19th-century, atmospheric
Ayvacık, 17860, Çanakkale ∑ voguehotel.net hotel has hosted Heinrich
Tel (0286) 721 73 85 An up-market hotel with smart Schliemann, the archaeologist who
∑ assosnazlıhan.com rooms, suites and villas. A host of is believed to have discovered Troy.
Idyllic location on the ancient pools and an aquapark.
harbour. Spacious, well-furnished ÇEŞME: Albano Hotel ¨
rooms in the wing. BODRUM PENINSULA: Budget
Divan Bodrum Palmira Hotel ¨¨ Açık Hava Tiyatrosu Karşısı Çevre
AYVALIK: Butik Sızma Han ¨ Boutique Yolu, 35930
Boutique Kelesharim Cad 6, Göltürkbükü, 48483 Tel (0232) 712 82 02
Gümrük Cad 2, Sok 49, 10400 Tel (0252) 377 56 01 ∑ cesmealbanohotel.com
Tel (0266) 312 77 00 ∑ divan.com.tr Half-board lodging option with
∑ butiksizmahan.com Upscale choice with landscaped comfortable rooms. A varied
Set in a former olive-oil press, gardens. Complimentary fresh breakfast spread and conveniently
this hotel has a lovely waterfront fruit in all the elegant rooms. close to the city centre.
location and comfortable rooms.
BODRUM PENINSULA: ÇEŞME: Grand Hotel
AYVALIK: Casa dell'Arte ¨¨¨ Ontur Çeşme ¨¨¨
Ferahi Evler Butik Otel ¨ Luxury Modern
Boutique İnönü Cad 66 Torba, Muğla, 48400 Cumhuriyet Mah, 4330/3 Sok 63/A,
Sakarya Mah, Atatürk Bulv 20, Tel (0252) 367 18 48 Dalyan, 35280
Sok 1, 3, 5, 10400 ∑ casadellartebodrum.com Tel (0232) 724 00 11
Tel (0266) 312 33 55 Artworks are exhibited in the rooms ∑ onturhotels.com/onturcesme
∑ ferahievler.com of this stylish hotel. Guests can also Beachside hotel offering spacious
A small hotel with sea views, choose to stay on a luxurious yacht. rooms with balconies. The on-site
traditional decor and volcanic spa offers a range of treatments.
stone walls. Close to Lesbos ferries. BODRUM PENINSULA:
Kempinski Hotel ÇEŞME: Ilıca Hotel Spa &
BERGAMA: Hera Hotel ¨ Barbaros Bay ¨¨¨ Wellness Resort ¨¨¨
Boutique Luxury Luxury
Talatpaşa Mah, Tabak Köprü Kizilağaç Köyü, Gerenkuyu Mevkii, Boyalık Mevkii Ilıca, 35937
Cad 21, 35700 Yaliciftlik, 48400 Tel (0232) 723 31 31
Tel (0232) 631 06 34 Tel (0252) 311 03 03 ∑ ilicahotel.com
∑ bergama.hotelhera.com ∑ kempinski.com Plush rooms and a beautiful
Two historic buildings have been Plush hotel with private beach location on a pristine beach.
converted to house ten rooms and a variety of watersports on Excellent spa treatments.
named after Greek deities. offer. Luxurious spa on site.
ÇANAKKALE:
DK Choice Grand Anzac Hotel ¨
BODRUM: Budget
El Vino Bodrum ¨¨ Kemalpaşa Mah, Kemalyeri
Boutique Sok 11, 17100
Omurça Mah, Pamili Tel (0286) 217 77 77
Sok 14, 48400 ∑ grandanzachotel.com
Tel (0252) 313 87 70 Centrally located, with decent
∑ elvinobodrum.com rooms and friendly staff. Street
A small but charming hotel facing rooms can be noisy.
overlooking Bodrum Castle,
with spacious, tasteful rooms. ÇANAKKALE: Helen Otel ¨
The garden level rooms have Budget
a private patio; most others Kemalpaşa Mah, Cumhuriyet
have balconies. Relax at the Meydanı 57, 17100
pool or in the garden, or Tel (0286) 212 18 18
watch spectacular sunsets ∑ helenhotel.com
on the rooftop. Excellent and Modern hotel with clean, simple
efficient service. and well-appointed rooms. Good The pretty, tranquil pool area at the El Vino
restaurant on site. hotel, Bodrum

CUNDA ISLAND: Taş Konak ¨¨ KUŞADASI: Alkoçlar KUŞADASI: Korumar

Boutique Adakule Hotel ¨ Hotel DeLuxe ¨¨¨
Mithat Paşa Mah, Şafak Sok 15, Modern Luxury
Alibey, Ayvalik,10400 Bayraklıdere Mevkii, 09400 Gazi Beğendi Mevkii PK 18, 09400
Tel (0266) 327 26 33 Tel (0256) 618 11 43 Tel (0256) 618 15 30
∑ taskonak.com.tr ∑ kusadasiadakulehotel.com ∑ korumar.com.tr
Situated on a cobbled street lined This seafront hotel, with a private Great sea views, two private
with historic homes, this place has beach, an outdoor pool and an beaches, pools and a spa – one of
lovely rooms, some with sea views. aquapark, ensures a fun stay. the best five-star hotels in town.
CUNDA ISLAND: KUŞADASI: Club Caravanserai ¨ MARMARIS: D-Hotel Maris ¨¨¨

Yund Antik Cunda Konakları ¨¨ Historic Luxury
Boutique Atatürk Bulv 2, 09400 Datça Yolu, Hisaronu Mevkii,
Namık Kemal Mah, Hayat Cad 27, Tel (0256) 614 41 15 PO Box 119, 48700
Alibey Adası, Ayvalik, 10405 Built in 1618, this former Tel (0252) 441 20 00
Tel (0266) 327 30 60 kervansaray offers basic rooms ∑ dhotel.com.tr
∑ yundantik.com around a spacious courtyard. A romantic getaway inside a
Elegant hotel with immaculate natural reservation with refined
and comfortable rooms set in KUŞADASI: Hotel Carina ¨ service. Open in summer only.
a beautifully restored Greek Budget
mansion. Closed Nov–Mar. Yılancıburnu Mevkii 1, 09400 MARMARIS:
Tel (0256) 612 40 21 Martı Hemithea Hotel ¨¨¨
DATÇA: Han Royal Villa Datça ¨¨ ∑ hotelcarina.com.tr Boutique
Boutique Pretty gardens and an outdoor Martı Marina & Yacht Club, Orhaniye
İskele Mah, Pir Sultan Abdal Sok 7, pool charm guests. Some rooms Köyü Keçibükü Mevkii, 48700
Datça, Muğla, 48900 have balconies with sea views. Tel (0252) 487 10 55
Tel (0252) 712 29 52 ∑ martihemitheahotel.com
∑ hanroyalhotels.com/datca KUŞADASI: Beautifully decorated hotel with
Family-run establishment, perfect Efe Boutique Hotel ¨¨ a yacht marina and classy rooms.
for a cosy stay. Located close to Boutique Sample delicious food at the
a public beach with clear and Güvercinada Cad 37, 09400 Mistral Restaurant.
pristine waters. Tel (0256) 614 36 60
∑ efeboutiquehotel.com PAMUKKALE: Venus Hotel ¨
İZMIR: Met Boutique Hotel ¨ Comfortable rooms, most with Pension
Boutique balconies, but can be slightly noisy Pamuk Mah, Hasan Tahsin Cad 16,
Gazi Bulv 124, Çankaya, 35210 due to the lively promenade. 20280
Tel (0232) 483 01 11 Tel (0258) 272 21 52
∑ metotel.com KUŞADASI: Kısmet Hotel ¨¨ ∑ venushotel.net
Stylish hotel with comfortable Luxury A friendly, family-run place with
beds in the business district. Gazi Beğendi Bulv 1, 09400 bright, tastefully decorated
The hotel takes pride in its good Tel (0256) 618 12 90 rooms. Relax on the large patio
quality Aegean cuisine and ∑ kismet.com.tr or in the beautiful gardens.
friendly service. Views of the Aegean Sea can be
enjoyed in every room. Private PAMUKKALE: Spa Hotel
İZMIR: Mövenpick Hotel ¨ beach area and an outdoor pool. Colossae Thermal ¨¨
Modern Luxury
Cumhuriyet Bul 138, 35210 KUŞADASI: Charisma Fatih Mah 112, Sok 4, Pamukkale
Tel (0232) 488 14 14 Deluxe Hotel ¨¨¨ Mevkii Karahayıt, Denizli, 20290
∑ movenpick-hotels.com Luxury Tel (0258) 271 41 56
Award-winning hotel geared Akyar Mevkii 5, 09400 ∑ colossaehotel.com
towards corporate travellers. Tel (0256) 618 32 66 One of the best hotels in town,
Stylish, contemporary rooms. ∑ charismahotel.com with vast gardens, huge pools, and
Breathtaking infinity pool with excellent spa and thermal services.
İZMIR: Key Hotel ¨¨¨ sweeping views of the Aegean
Historic Sea. All rooms have Jacuzzis. SELÇUK: Ephesus Suites ¨¨
Mimar Kemalettin Cad 1, Konak, 35260 Budget
Tel (0232) 482 11 11 İsabey Mah, Anton Kallinger Cad
∑ keyhotel.com 1056, 35920
An old building on the waterfront, Tel (0232) 892 63 12
with smart rooms, a wellness ∑ ephesussuiteshotel.com
centre and a restaurant. Four basic but comfortable rooms,
close to the main sites. A delicious
İZMIR: Swissotel Büyük Efes ¨¨¨ breakfast is served in the garden.
Luxury
Gaziosmanpaşa Bulv 1, SELÇUK:
Alsancak, 35210 Güllü Konakları ¨¨
Tel (0232) 414 00 00 Boutique
∑ swissotel.com/izmir Şirince Köyü 44, 35920
Well-located in the lively water- Tel (0232) 898 31 31
front quarter of Alsancak, this ∑ gullukonak.com
hotel is an opulent landmark of Elegant hotel in a charming
İzmir with a huge garden and A luxurious superior room with a spacious village, 20 minutes from Ephesus.
an excellent spa. sitting area at the Key Hotel, İzmir Lovely public spaces.

pool and lush gardens, this hotel

Mediterranean is one of the best in Antalya's
Turkey charming Old Town.
ADANA: Hotel Seyhan ¨ BELEK: Cornelia Diamond

Budget Golf Resort & Spa ¨¨¨
Turhan Cemal Beriker Bulv 20/A, 01120 Luxury
Tel (0322) 455 30 30 İskele Mevkii, 07500
∑ otelseyhan.com.tr Tel (0242) 710 16 00
This sleek hotel, located close to the ∑ corneliaresort.com
major sights, offers great views An all-inclusive golf resort on
from the dining room. the Mediterraean with several
restaurants and bars. Spacious,
ADANA: Riva Reşat Bey elegant rooms.
Boutique & Business Hotel ¨
Boutique BELEK: Maxx Royal Belek
Reşatbey Mah, Adalet Cad 20, Golf & Spa ¨¨¨
Seyhan, 01170 Luxury
Tel (0322) 401 00 00 İskele Mevkii, 07505
∑ adanariva.com The indoor pool area at the Adana Hilton Tel (0242) 710 27 00
Eco-friendly hotel with unique SA Hotel, Adana ∑ maxxroyal.com
architecture and modern decor. Exclusive deluxe 18-hole golf
It offers a great buffet breakfast. 1920s building, this hotel has resort with an aqua park. There
elegant rooms. Great breakfasts is also a spa, a private beach and
ADANA: and a good central location. several swimming pools.
Adana Hilton SA Hotel ¨¨
Luxury ANTAKYA: Savon Hotel ¨¨ BELEK: Susesi Luxury Resort ¨¨¨
Sinanpaşa Mah, Hacı Sabancı Boutique Luxury
Bulv 1, 01220 Kurtuluş Cad 192, 31070 İskele Mevkii, 07506
Tel (0322) 355 50 00 Tel (0326) 214 63 55 Tel (0242) 710 24 00
∑ hilton.com.tr ∑ savonhotel.com.tr ∑ susesihotel.com
Spacious rooms and an attractive A soap factory converted into a A large and luxurious resort
lobby at this riverside hotel. Good fine hotel. Most rooms are large found right on the beach with
on-site restaurant and bar. and luxurious. The hotel lobby well-manicured gardens.
has plush sofas and a grand piano.
ADRASSAN: DALYAN: Midas Pension ¨
Ottoman Palace Hotel ¨ ANTALYA: Hotel Villa Perla ¨ Pension
Budget Boutique Maraş Cad, Kaunos Sok 32, 48840
Deniz Mah, Çavuşköy Beldesi Barbaros Mah, Hesapçi Sok 26, Tel (0252) 284 21 95
Kumluca Antalya, 07100 Kaleiçi, 07100 ∑ midasdalyan.com
Tel (0242) 883 14 62 Tel (0242) 248 97 93 Set by the river, this small and
∑ jonnyturk.com ∑ villaperla.com charming place offers comfortable
Run by a hospitable couple who A small Ottoman-period hotel rooms with wonderful views.
also organize walks on the Lycian with a handful of rooms set
Way. Excellent service. around a courtyard and pool. FETHIYE: Villa Daffodil ¨
Boutique
ALANYA: Hotel Villa Turka ¨ ANTALYA: Ninova Pension ¨ Fevzi Çakmak Cad 115,
Boutique Pension Ikinci Karagözler
Tophane Mah Kargı Sok 7, Alanya, Barbaros Mah, Hamit Efendi Tel (0252) 614 95 95
Antalya, 07400 Sok 9, Kaleiçi, 07100 ∑ villadaffodil.com
Tel (0242) 530 54 76 41 Tel (0242) 248 61 14 Small, traditional-style but modern
∑ hotelvillaturka.com ∑ ninovapension.net hotel found on a quiet street just
Stylish and homely Ottoman- This establishment in the Old outside the centre of the town.
period hotel perched above the Town has been converted from
sea within the walls of the citadel. an old, traditional house. Quiet FETHIYE: Yacht Boutique Hotel ¨
rooms and a lovely garden. Boutique
ALANYA: Sentido Gold 1 Karagözler Mevki Fevzi Çakmak
Island Hotel ¨¨¨ ANTALYA: Mardan Palace ¨¨¨ Cad, 48300
Modern Luxury Tel (0252) 614 15 30
Fuğla Mah, Gölcük Cad 27, 07400 Kundu Koyu, Oteller Mevkii, 07110 ∑ yachthotelturkey.com
Tel (0242) 510 03 00 Tel (0242) 310 41 00 Close to the water-front promenade,
∑ goldhotels.com.tr ∑ mardanpalace.com.tr this place offers modern rooms
This hotel is located on a peninsula Gold and marble opulence at decorated in warm colours.
surrounded by beaches. Many every corner in this hotel out on
on-site restaurants and bars and Lara Beach, east of the city centre. GÖCEK: Dalya Life ¨
courteous staff. Boutique
ANTALYA: Tuvana ¨¨¨ Şerefler Köyü, Tersakan Mah 37,
ANTAKYA: The Liwan Hotel ¨ Boutique PK 36, Dalaman, 48770
Boutique Karanlık Sokak, Kaleiçi, 07100 Tel (0252) 791 10 40
Silahlı Kuvvetler Cad 5, 31070 Tel (0242) 247 60 15 ∑ gocekotel.com
Tel (0326) 215 77 77 ∑ tuvanahotel.com Off-the-beaten-track bungalows
∑ theliwanhotel.com Set in a series of Ottoman and suites surrounded by a pine
Charmingly converted from a mansions overlooking a central forest. Organic food available.

GÖCEK: Yonca Resort ¨

Budget Ankara and Western
Cumhuriyet Mah, 48310 Anatolia
Tel (0252) 645 22 55
∑ yoncaresort.com AFYON: İkbal Thermal Hotel ¨
Run by a welcoming couple, this Modern
peaceful gem has pleasant rooms, a İzmir Karayolu 9 km, 03000
private pool and pleasant gardens. Tel (0272) 252 56 00
∑ ikbal.com.tr
KALKAN: Allegra Hotel ¨ İkbal offers simple, chic rooms
Boutique with marble bathrooms. Some
Zeytinlik Cad, 07960 rooms have balconies.
Tel (0242) 844 24 36
∑ allegrahotel.com AFYON: Güral Afyon
Charming small-sized hotel on a Wellness & Convention ¨¨
mountain slope. Simple rooms Modern
with balconies and an infinity pool. İzmir Karayolu 7 km, 03000
Tel (0272) 220 22 22
KALKAN: Ekinhan Hotel ¨ The large resort of Rixos Sungate set on the ∑ nghotels.com.tr
Boutique coast right by the beach, Kemer Unwind at the immaculately kept
Kalamar Yolu, 07960 pool and enjoy warm Turkish
Tel (0242) 844 10 50 KAŞ: Doria Hotel Yacht Club ¨¨¨ hospitality at this large hotel.
∑ ekinhan.net Boutique
Exotic flowers and olive trees fill Uğur Mumcu Cad, Bucak Denizi ANKARA: And Butik Hotel ¨
the garden of this tranquil hotel. Acisu Mevkii, 07580 Boutique
Some rooms offer lovely views Tel (0242) 836 42 04 Içkale Mah Istek Sok 3, Altındağ,
over the town and bay. ∑ doriahotelkas.com 06680
Set on a peaceful Blue Flag beach Tel (0312) 310 23 04
KALKAN: White House ¨¨¨ this hotel boasts impressive archi- ∑ andbutikhotel.com
Boutique tecture. Some rooms have Jacuzzis. Located in the heart of the city,
Menteşe Mah, 5 Nolu Sok, 07960 with bright modern rooms. Break-
Tel (0242) 844 37 38 KEMER: Rixos Sungate ¨¨¨ fast is available for an extra charge.
∑ whıtehousekalkan.com Luxury
A restored old Greek house that Çifteçeşmeler Mevkii, Beldibi 3, 07985 ANKARA: No 19 ¨
combines period charm with all Tel (0242) 824 00 00 Boutique
mod cons. Welcoming hosts. ∑ rixos.com Birlik Mah 457, Sok 19, 06000
Offering all-inclusive vacations Tel (0312) 495 00 00
KAŞ: Aqua Princess Hotel ¨ and the deluxe amenities ∑ no19hotel.com
Budget associated with the Rixos Sleek, minimalist hotel in a trendy
Hükümet Cad 71, 07580 hotel chain. Service may be neighbourhood. The spa is owned
Tel (0242) 836 20 26 downsized in the winter. by top model Adriana Karambeau.
∑ aquaprincess.com
Small hotel with a resort feel ÖLÜ DENIZ:
set on a quiet beach. Half-board Morina Hotel ¨ DK Choice
option is available. Budget ANKARA: Divan Çukurhan ¨¨
Belceğiz, Fethiye, 48340 Boutique
KAŞ: Gardenia ¨¨ Tel (0252) 617 02 55 Ankara Kalesi Necatibey Mah,
Boutique ∑ morinahotel.com Depo Sok 3, Ulus, 06240
Küçük Çakil, Hükümet Cad 41, Set in an attractive olive grove, Tel (0312) 306 64 00
Kaş, 07580 close to Ölü Deniz lagoon. Choose ∑ divan.com.tr/TR
Tel (0242) 836 23 68 from a variety of basic rooms. Located close to Ankara Castle
∑ gardeniahotel-kas.com and the Museum of Anatolian
Stylish hotel above a small beach ÖLÜ DENIZ: Civilizations, this superb period
with views to the island of Meis. Oyster Residences ¨¨ hotel is the pride of the wealthy
Very friendly owners. Boutique Koç family. Rooms are indivi-
Belceğiz Mevkii 1, Sok Ölü Deniz dually decorated and have high-
Fethiye, 48340 quality furnishings. There's also a
DK Choice Tel (0252) 617 07 65 great library for guests.
KAŞ: Lukka Exclusive Hotel ¨¨ ∑ oysterresidences.com
Boutique Beautifully decorated hotel set in
Çukurbağ Yarımadası Oteller lush gardens in the heart of a ANKARA: Sheraton Hotel &
Bölgesi Bülent Kalkavan lively resort. Close to the beach. Convention Centre ¨¨
Sok 16, 07580 Modern
Tel (0242) 836 14 20 SIDE: Beach House Hotel ¨¨ Noktalı Sok, Kavaklıdere, 06700
∑ lukkahotel.com Boutique Tel (0312) 457 60 00
A beautiful cliffside location Barbaros Cad ∑ sheratonankara.com
makes Lukka one of the most Tel (0242) 753 16 07 This hotel with striking cylindrical
romantic sunset spots in the ∑ beachhouse-hotel.com architecture offers tastefully
area. There is a private beach and Very atmospheric accommodation decorated and well-appointed
an infinity pool with wonderful overlooking the small western rooms and suites. Some rooms
views. The sleek rooms offer beach on Side's old quarter. Enjoy offer stunning views. Relax at
sea or garden views. the company of the friendly the on-site restaurants and bars
owners and their cute pets. or rejuvenate at the health club.

ANKARA: JW Marriot Hotel ¨¨¨ KÜTAHYA: Hilton Garden Inn ¨ on the frontier with Georgia.
Luxury Modern Foreigners need military
Kızılırmak Mah, Muhsin Yazıcıoğlu Servi Mah, Atatürk Bulv 21, 43030 permission to stay.
Cad 1, Söğütözü, 06520 Tel (0274) 229 55 55
Tel (0312) 248 88 88 ∑ kutahya.hgi.com RIZE: Dedeman Hotel ¨
∑ jwmarriottankara.com Centrally located, good-value Modern
Spacious rooms complemented chain hotel offering comfortable Ali Paşa Köyü, 53100
with excellent service and rooms, a cooked-to-order Tel (0464) 223 44 44
amenities. Expect all the plush frills breakfast and a fitness centre. ∑ dedeman.com
from this top-notch establishment. Set on a rocky cliff on the Black
Sea. Most rooms have sea views.
ESKIŞEHIR: Abacı Konak Hotel ¨¨ Good buffet dinners.
Boutique The Black Sea
Akarbaşı Mah, Türkmen Hoca Sok 29, SAFRANBOLU: Cinci Han ¨
Odunpazarı, 26000 AYDER PLATEAU: Bukla Oberj ¨ Boutique
Tel (0222) 333 03 33 Pension Cinci Han Sokak, Safranbolu, 78600
∑ abaciotel.com Ayder Yaylası, Çamlıhemşin, 53750 Tel (0370) 712 06 90
Considered one of the most atmos- Tel (0464) 657 20 55 ∑ cincihan.com
pheric places to stay in Eskişehir, ∑ oberj.com This stunning 17th-century
this hotel comprises several Set across a waterfall with a huge kervansaray offers superb upper-
beautifully restored town houses. spruce forest in the backdrop. floor suite rooms. The standard
Popular with hikers. rooms overlooking the courtyard
ISPARTA: Barida Hotels ¨¨ are almost as good.
Modern AYDER PLATEAU:
102 Cad 81, 32040 Natura Otel ¨
Tel (0246) 500 25 25 Pension DK Choice
∑ baridahotels.com Ayder Yaylası Turizm Merkezi, Rize, SAFRANBOLU: Gülevi ¨¨
Hospitable and friendly hotel that Çamlıhemşin, 53780 Boutique
aims to cater for every need. Superb Tel (0464) 657 20 35 Hükümet Sokak 46, TR - 78600
view from the rooftop restaurant. ∑ naturaotel.com Tel (0370) 725 46 45
Wooden, Alpine-style chalet ∑ canbulat.com.tr
KONYA: Paşapark Hotel ¨ with views of the valley and A UNESCO World Heritage
Modern mountain. Simple, en-suite Site, Gulevi was converted
Şems-i Tebrizi Mah, Sultan Veled rooms with central heating and from an 18th-century mansion.
Cad 3, Karatay, 42030 flat-screen TVs. Delicate wood-carvings
Tel (0332) 444 57 05 adorn the walls, and all
∑ pasapark.com.tr BOLU: rooms have fireplaces and
Smart hotel with traditional Büyük Abant Hotel ¨¨ window shutters. Sleek,
touches. Bathrooms have hydro- Modern modern bathrooms.
massage shower heads. 14800 Bolu
Tel (0374) 224 50 33
KONYA: Rumi Hotel ¨ ∑ buyukabantoteli.com SAMSUN:
Modern Large hotel set beside Abant lake Venn Boutique Hotel ¨¨
Fakih Sok and surrounded by pretty pine Boutique
Tel (0332) 353 11 21 forests. Modern, comfortable Cumhuriyet Mah, Adnan Menderes
∑ rumihotel.com rooms. There is also has a pool Bulv 325, Atakum, 55200
Very tastefully done hotel in a and a tennis court. Tel (0362) 407 00 01
great location overlooking the ∑ vennbutikotel.com
Mevlâna Museum. Rejuvenate This contemporary-style hotel
at the spa and fitness centre. DK Choice offers a range of spacious rooms
BOLU: Kartal Hotel ¨¨¨ and lovely sea views. Superb
KONYA: Hilton Garden Inn ¨¨ Ski lodge roof-top restaurant.
Modern Kartalkaya Mevkii PK 5, 14200
Aziziye Mah, Kışlaönü Sok 4, Tel (0374) 234 50 05
Karatay, 42020 ∑ kartalotel.com
Tel (0332) 221 60 00 This upmarket ski resort has
∑ hilton.com.tr direct access to the south-facing
Smart, modern hotel located slopes of Mount Bolu. Heated
close to the Mevlâna Museum indoor pool and a large and
and city centre. Spacious rooms comfortable lobby. Range of
and a good grill restaurant. accommodation available from
basic rooms to spacious suites.
KONYA: Dedeman Konya Higher prices on weekends.
Hotel Convention Center ¨¨¨
Modern
Isparta Beyşehir Yolu Yeni Sille Cad, MAÇAHEL:
Özalan Mah, Selçuklu, 42080 Maçahel Konukevi ¨
Tel (0332) 221 66 00 Guesthouse
∑ dedeman.com Camili Köyü, Maçahel Borçka, 08400
Though outside the city centre, Tel (0466) 485 24 04
this large stylish hotel has all the ∑ macahelkonukevi.com
usual amenities, a great spa and Eco-friendly, stone-built guest- Beautifully decorated library at
good service. house set in a pretty green valley Divan Çukurhan, Ankara (see p336)

SINOP: Zinos Hotel ¨¨ GÖREME: Anatolian Houses ¨¨ MUSTAFAPAŞA: Gül Konakları ¨

Budget Boutique Historic
Ada Mah, Enver Bahadır Yolu 69, Gaferli Mah, Nevşehir, 50180 Sümer Cad, Ürgüp, 50401
Karakum, 57000 Tel (0384) 271 24 63 Tel (0384) 353 54 86
Tel (0368) 260 56 00 ∑ anatolianhouses.com.tr ∑ gulkonaklari.dinler.com
∑ zinoshotel.com.tr The best conversion of a series A pair of beautifully restored
This hotel has two sections: of rock-cut cave dwellings in the mansions with a lovely garden.
country and business. Rooms village. Lovely courtyard and spa/ The rooms are full of character
are either homely or modern Turkish bath complex. and many rooms have stone-
in style. vaulted ceilings.
GÖREME: Cappadocia
TRABZON: Taş Konak Hotel ¨¨ Cave Suites ¨¨
Boutique Boutique DK Choice
Esentepe Mah, Y Selim Bulv 89, Gafferli Mah, Ünlü Sok19, 50180 MUSTAFAPAŞA:
T
61100 Tel (0384) 271 28 00 Cappadocia Estates ¨¨
Tel (0462) 325 77 17 ∑ cappadociacavesuites.com Boutique
∑ taskonakbutikotel.com.tr Decent sized cave rooms but the Şahin Bey Cad, Vezir Sok 12, 50420
Converted from a historic fairy-chimney rooms are smaller. Tel (0384) 535 50 20
house, this stylish establishment The restaurant uses local produce. ∑ cappadociaestates.com
has cosy rooms. Some rooms An elegant little gem converted
have sea views. KAYSERI: Bent Hotel ¨ from registered historical
Budget properties. Exquisitely decorated
TRABZON: Zorlu Gevher Nesibe Mah, Atatürk Bulv 40, with antiques, custom-made
Grand Hotel ¨¨¨ Kocasinan, 38020 furniture and original works of
Luxury Tel (0352) 221 24 00 art. Spacious cave rooms with
Maraş Cad 9, 61110 ∑ benthotel.com high ceilings and tall windows.
Tel (0462) 326 84 00 Located in the historic centre of
∑ zorlugrand.com the city. Rooms are decorated
This hotel has comfortable rooms with warm colours. NEVŞEHIR:
and offers a great breakfast Dedeman Cappadocia
buffet. The impressive lobby KAYSERI: Novotel ¨ Convention Centre ¨¨
has a stunning glass ceiling. Modern Modern
Yeni Pervane Mah, Kocasinan Bulv Ürgüp Yolu, 2 km, 50200
163, Kocasinan, 38110 Tel (0384) 213 99 00
Tel (0352) 207 30 00 ∑ dedeman.com
Cappadocia and ∑ novotel.com Huge hotel with an array of
Central Anatolia A typical Novotel conveniently facilities including indoor and
located close to the historic outdoor pools, a Turkish bath,
AMASYA: Lalehan Hotel ¨ city centre. On-site restaurant a fitness centre and a wine bar.
Boutique and some rooms have views
Pirinççi Mah, Mehmet Paşa Sok 31, of Mount Erciyes. ORTAHISAR: Hezen
05000 Cave Hotel ¨¨¨
Tel (0358) 212 77 77 KAYSERI: Radisson Blu ¨ Boutique
∑ lalehanotel.com Modern Tahir Bey Sok 87, Ortahisar/
Clean, well-appointed rooms in Sivas Cad 24 Ürgüp, 50400
a characterful Ottoman mansion. Tel (0352) 315 50 00 Tel (0384) 343 30 05
Some rooms have balconies ∑ radissonblu.com.tr ∑ hezenhotel.com
overlooking the river. Near the Located at the city centre, this Very stylish ten-room cave hotel
Pontic tombs. is a good-value, modern hotel. with a tasteful mix of antique and
Sample a great breakfast contemporary decor and furn-
GÖREME: Kookaburra Pension ¨ and enjoy fine views at the ishings. Enjoy a hearty breakfast
Guesthouse rooftop restaurant. at the vine-shaded terrace along
Orta Mah, Konak Sok 10, 50180 with superb views of Ortahisar's
Nevsehir towering citadel rock pinnacle.
Tel (0384) 271 25 49
∑ kookaburramotel.com UÇHISAR:
Long-established, old village Argos in Cappadocia ¨¨¨
house with an enviable Boutique
location and a charming roof- Uçhisar, 50240
terrace. This immaculately well- Tel (0384) 219 31 30
presented and well-run place is ∑ argosincappadocia.com
ideal for budget travellers. Located on a sloped hillside, this
charming hotel offers great views
GÖREME: Melek Cave Hotel ¨ of Uçhisar Castle.
Budget
Gaferli Mah, Ünler Sok 28, UÇHISAR: Museum Hotel ¨¨¨
50180 Boutique
Tel (0384) 271 22 33 Tekelli Mah 1, 50240
∑ melekcave.com Tel (0384) 219 22 20
Inexpensive, cheerful village ∑ museum-hotel.com
hotel offering a choice of Cappadocia's oldest cave hotel
Ottoman-era and cave rooms. Selection of tasty savoury and sweet treats is a registered museum, so it is
Lovely garden. served in the Zorlu Grand lobby, Trabzon full of interesting artifacts.

Rooms feature whirlpool baths GAZIANTEP: MARDIN:

and many have great views. The Anatolian Hotel ¨ Antik Tatlı Dede Konağı ¨
Modern Boutique
ÜRGÜP: Ürgüp Esbelli Ev ¨¨ Mücahitler Mah, Gazimuhtarpaşa Ulucami Mah 104, Sok 27, 47100
Boutique Bulv 50, Şehitkamil, 27010 Tel (0482) 213 27 20
Dolay Sok 8, 50400 Tel (0342) 211 40 40 ∑ tatlidede.com.tr
Tel (0384) 341 33 95 ∑ theanatolianhotel.com Delightful hotel near the Ulu
∑ esbelli.com Hotel with clean and comfortable Cami. The spacious rooms have
One of the first, and still one of rooms and a wellness club in an barrel vaulted ceilings and
the best, period boutique hotels up-market neighbourhood. On- decorative carvings.
in Cappadocia. Lovely cave site restaurants, cafés and bars.
rooms and great breakfasts. MARDIN: Reyhan Kasrı ¨¨
GAZIANTEP: Boutique
Zeynep Hanım Konağı ¨ Birinci Cad 163
Boutique Tel (0482) 212 13 33
Eastern Anatolia Bey Mah, Atatürk Bulv, Eski Sinema ∑ erdobaelegance.com
Sok 17, 27010 Well located in the heart of old
DIYARBAKIR: Dedeman Tel (0342) 232 02 07 Mardin, this hotel features
Diyarbakır Hotel ¨ ∑ zeynephanimkonagi.com traditional style rooms with all
Modern Charming pension set in a mod cons including tea- and
Elazığ Cad, Büyükşehir Belediyesi historic building with lots of coffee-making facilities in rooms.
Yanı, 21400 character. Rustic and traditional The rear rooms have great views
Tel (0412) 229 00 00 with nice amenities such as tea- over the Mesopotamian plains.
∑ dedeman.com and coffee-making facilities in
Next to one of the biggest malls all rooms.
in town, this is a large hotel with DK Choice
many rooms and good facilities. KAHTA: Zeus Hotel ¨ MIDYAT:
MIDYAT A :
Modern Kasr-ı Nehroz Hotel ¨
DIYARBAKIR: Büyük M Kemal Cad 20, Adiyaman Boutique
Kervansaray Diyarbakır ¨¨ Tel (0416) 725 56 94 Işıklar Mah 219, Sok 14, 47500
Boutique ∑ zeushotel.com.tr Tel (0482) 464 25 25
Sur Içi Gazi Cad, Deliler Han, 21200 Modest hotel with friendly staff, ∑ hotelnehroz.com
Tel (0412) 228 96 06 lovely gardens and a fine pool. A wonderful find in the historical
∑ kervansarayotel.com.tr Located at the foot of Mount centre of Midyat, this hotel is in a
Well-established hotel beautifully Nemrut. Amenities include a lovingly and tastefully converted
fashioned from a kervansaray. swimming pool, sauna and a honey-coloured mansion house
Small but well-appointed rooms. Turkish bath. Free Wi-Fi. where no expense has been
It can be noisy at weekends as spared. Combines period charm
there are sometimes wedding KARS: Kar's Hotel ¨¨ with modern conveniences.
functions held in the courtyard. Historic
Yusufpaşa Mah, Halitpaşa Cad 31,
DOĞUBEYAZIT: Simer Hotel ¨ 36100 ŞANLIURFA: Dedeman Hotel ¨
Budget Tel (0474) 212 16 16 Modern
İran Transit Yolu, 3 km, Doğubeyazıt, ∑ karsotel.com Atatürk Mah, Hastane Cad, 63100
Ağrı, 04400 Stately old Russian mansion now Tel (0414) 318 25 00
Tel (0472) 312 48 48 converted into an elegant hotel. ∑ dedeman.com
∑ simerotel.com Beautifully furnished rooms with Stylish tower block on the edge of
A modest hotel east of town on modern amenities. Breakfasts the city with fine views of the city.
the road to Iran. Stunning views feature local produce. Comfortable and contemporary-
of Mount Ararat. Friendly staff and style rooms. Spa and gym facilities.
a good buffet breakfast, but some
of the rooms are dark and dull. ŞANLIURFA: Manici Otel ¨¨
Boutique
ERZURUM: Grand Hitit Hotel ¨ Balıklıgöl Civarı Şurkav Alışveriş
Budget Merkezi 68, 63200
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Mah 26, Sok, Tel (0414) 215 99 11
25200 ∑ maniciurfa.com
Tel (0442) 233 50 01 Spacious, elegant rooms featuring
∑ grandhitithotel.com.tr painted furniture. Relax at the
Centrally located hotel with a large coutyard bar or enjoy evening
lobby. Functional rooms with a meals featuring local specialities.
safe, a minibar and a spacious en- Conveniently located for the
suite bathroom. Friendly service. Pool of Abraham and citadel.
ERZURUM: Dedeman VAN: Ada Palas Hotel ¨

Palandöken Ski Lodge Hotel ¨¨ Modern
Boutique Şerefiye Mah, Cumhuriyet Cad, 65100
PK 115, 25000 Tel (0432) 216 27 16
Tel (0442) 317 05 00 ∑ vanadapalasoteli.com
∑ dedeman.com This spotless place is the
This small hotel has direct access best budget option in Van.
to the ski slopes and a dedicated Spacious and cosy common living room Front rooms may get some
room to store ski equipment. at Ürgüp Esbelli Ev, Ürgüp street noise. Very friendly.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Restaurants in Turkey range from the interesting local dishes can be found
informal lokanta and kebab houses, found on along the Black Sea coast and in the
every street corner, to upscale gourmet interior of Anatolia. Every region presents
restaurants. In Istanbul, and in most major its own culinary specialities: you can sample
tourist centres, the restaurants cover thick, clotted cream in Afyon, spicy
a wide variety of cuisines, from French to meatballs in Tekirdağ, chewy ice cream
Korean. Restaurants on the Mediterranean in Kahramanmaraş and whole-milk yogurt
and Aegean coasts specialize in seafood in distant Erzurum. As you move further
dishes, and Cappadocia is famous for its away from Istanbul, finding vegetarian
wines and traditional cuisine. A range of options on the menu becomes a little tricky.
Where to Look
The smartest and most
expensive restaurants are
usually located in upmarket
neighbourhoods of major cities,
often as part of renowned
international hotel chains.
The main roads and central
business districts of most towns
have a selection of fast-food
eateries, cafés and inexpensive
restaurants where the locals
go to eat – most of these towns
also have a number of cafés,
patisseries and pudding shops
which specialize in muhallebi
(traditional sweet milk puddings). The sumptuous Beyti restaurant in Florya, Istanbul (see p349)
In the interiors, most restaurants
focus on regional food and the establishments serve a variety Fish restaurants are sometimes
menu caters to locals more than of dishes, often listed on a concentrated along the
tourists. However, coastal resorts board near the entrance. They same street, creating a lively
cater to all ages and tastes, and offer hazır yemek (ready-to-serve atmosphere and making
offer a wide variety of dishes food), usually consisting of hot the street seem like one large
from across the world. meat and vegetable dishes that restaurant. The meals here
are displayed in a bain marie, or typically consist of a selection
steam table. Other dishes on of mezes (appetizers) (see p344),
Types of Restaurant the menu may be sulu yemek followed by the catch of the
The most common type of (stews) and ızgara (grilled meat day, which might include
restaurant in Turkey is the and kebabs). palamut (bonito), lüfer (bluefish),
traditional lokanta. These Equally popular eating kalkan (turbot), kılıç balığı
joints include the kebapcı (swordfish) and levrek (sea bass).
or ocakbaşı (kebab house). Also popular are Black Sea
Most kebab houses also serve hamsi (a kind of anchovy) and
the popular lahmacun, a thin deep-fried barbun (red mullet).
dough base topped with fried Wild-caught fish is much more
onions, minced meat and expensive than farmed fish,
tomato sauce – this dish is the latter of which is widely
the Turkish version of a pizza. available in many restaurants
Some also serve pide, a flat- that do not specialize in fish.
bread base with various The most common varieties
toppings such as eggs, cheese of farmed sea fish are a type
and cured meat. If you have of bream known as çipura and
had too much to drink, you levrek (sea bass). Alabalık (trout)
may need a bowl of işkembe is also popular from fish farms
(tripe soup), the traditional by rivers. Fish is served grilled
Turkish cure for a hangover, or fried, and is usually
before going to bed. İşkembe accompanied by salad and
Slicing meat from a revolving grill for restaurants stay open until the rakı (see p345), an anise-
a döner kebab early hours of the morning. flavoured spirit.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 341
When choosing a place bread and water. Always check

to eat, remember that the bill and make sure you are
many of the cheaper being charged only for the things
restaurants and kebab you ordered and received.
houses do not serve
alcohol. Alcoholic drinks
are generally expensive Recommended
due to high taxes – Restaurants
this can double the The restaurants recommended on
cost of the overall bill. the following pages have been
The more conservative carefully selected for their quality
A trout restaurant on the river at Saklıkent places may have a food, good value and decent
separate section for service. They range from under-
Meyhanes are also quite families or women. These are stated local cafés to glitzy
popular in Turkey – they are designated by a sign with the restaurants serving international
similar to taverns, serving words aile salonu (family room), dishes. Divided into eight geogra-
alcohol and mezes, and often and single men do not enter. phical areas corresponding to the
have live music. Turks are proud of their chapters in this guide, the entries
International culinary hospitality and service. Good are then organized by town.
influences are encouraging service is always found in the The listings cover the various
local chefs to be more upmarket restaurants with well- types of restaurant in Turkey
adventurous and innovative. trained, professional waiters including lokantas, kebab
Wealthier Turks frequent the and kitchen staff, and the same restaurants and meyhanes.
foreign restaurants found level of attentive service is also Restaurants listed with the name
in a number of Istanbul present at cheaper eateries. of a particular region of the
neighbourhoods, while global It is natural for Turks to call a country usually specialize in the
icons such as Starbucks and waiter by saying, bakar mısınız cuisine from that area. Look out
Gloria Jean’s have become part (service, please). for South East Anatolia cuisine –
of everyday life in major cities a vibrant mix of Kurdish, Arabian,
and coastal resorts. Syrian and Turkish flavours.
Service Charges Black Sea fare is also worth
and Paying sampling, and is usually made up
Opening Hours All major credit cards are widely of Black Sea fish (mainly anchovy),
Turks eat when they are hungry, accepted, except in the cheaper corn and corn flour, collard greens,
without looking at the clock, restaurants, kebab houses, local milk, cream, butter and cheese.
and will simply drop in at the bufes (snack kiosks) and some Some restaurants, especially in
most convenient place around. lokantas. Value-added tax (KDV in Istanbul, have revived the art of
Restaurants and kebab houses Turkish) is always included in the preparing Ottoman Turkish
open at about 11am and stay bill, but the policy on service dishes, with main meat dishes
open for business until the last varies. Some restaurants may add often cooked with fruit.
customer leaves in the evening. a service charge of 10 per cent or Restaurants labelled as
During Ramadan Muslims more, while others leave it to the DK Choice offer something
fast from sunrise to sunset. discretion of the customer. Some extra special. This may be their
Hence restaurants in rural restaurants charge a kuver (cover) superb location, inviting or
Turkey remain closed during of a few liras per person for sitting romantic ambience, sensational
the day, or they may serve only down, which usually includes cuisine, or impeccable service.
a special iftar (fast-breaking)
menu in the evening. There are
no firm guidelines on opening
hours. Restaurants in many of
the tourist resorts grind to a
halt by the end of October,
to re-open in March or April
when the weather improves.
What to Expect
In Turkey, a meal is always
an occasion and, for special
meals, it is best to book ahead.
In large centres vegetarians can
enjoy variety, but the options
become scarcer as you travel
further east. Waterside restaurant on Bird Island, near the Aegean resort of Kuşadası
The Flavours of Turkey

The wide range of climatic zones across Turkey make it one
of the few countries that can grow all its own food. Tea is
cultivated in the mountains by the Black Sea, and bananas
in the sultry south. The Anatolian plain in between is criss-
crossed by wheat fields and rich grasslands on which cattle
graze, providing top-quality meat and dairy produce. Fruit
and vegetables flourish everywhere and fish abound in
the salty seas that lap the nation’s shores. Freshness is the
hallmark of this varied cuisine, drawn from the many cultures Pomegranates
that were subject to nearly five centuries of Ottoman rule.
staples – yogurt, flatbread East, further south, nomads

and the kebab – originate introduced the occasional
in this region. fiery blast of chilli. Its use
The common use of fruits, was once an essential aid
such as pomegranates, figs to preserving meat in the
and apricots, in Turkish searing desert heat.
savoury dishes stems from
Persian influences, filtering Ottoman Cuisine
down with the tribes that It was in the vast, steamy
came from the north of the kitchens of the Topkapı Palace
steppe. From the Middle in Istanbul that a repertoire of
A stall in the Egyptian Bazaar, one of Lamb şiş kebab Stuffed aubergine
Istanbul’s oldest markets Tomato and (eggplant) Prawn (shrimp) kebab
Chicken şiş kebab mild chilli sauce
The Anatolian Steppe Lamb cutlet
Döner kebab
The steppe stretching from
Central Asia to Anatolia is one
of the oldest inhabited regions
of the world. Dishes from this
vast area are as varied as the
different ethnic groups that
live here, but are mainly
traditional and simple. To fit in
with a mainly nomadic way of
life, food generally needed to
be quick and easy to prepare.
Turkey’s most famous culinary A selection of typical Turkish kebabs
Local Dishes and Specialities

Fish has been caught and consumed in
abundance in Turkey since Greek times
and is usually prepared very simply.
Since ancient times the Bosphorus has
been known for its excellent fishing and
in the winter months especially, there is
a bounty of oil-rich fish, such as bluefish,
bream, bonito tuna, sea bass, mullet and
Turkish Delight mackerel, waiting to be reeled in. The Black
Sea in the North is also provided with a
steady supply of juicy mussels and hamsi, a type of anchovy.
Sweets are also popular and eaten throughout the day, not Midye Dolması Mussels are
just after a meal. They are sold in shops, on stalls and by street stuffed with a spiced rice
vendors. Turkey is renowned for its baklava, sweet pastries mixture, steamed and served
coated with syrup and often filled with nuts. with a squirt of lemon juice.
Bazaar Culture
A visit to the food markets
in Turkey, especially Istanbul’s
Egyptian Bazaar (see p102)
is a must. A cornucopia of
fine ingredients is brought
here daily from farms that
surround the city. Apricots,
watermelons, cherries and
figs sit alongside staple
vegetables, such as peppers,
onions, aubergines and
tomatoes. Fine cuts of lamb
and beef, cheeses, pickles,
herbs, spices and honey-
A splendid array of fruit, vegetables and dried goods in the Egyptian Bazaar drenched pastries and
puddings are also on offer.
mouthwatering dishes to rival tradition lives on in many of
the celebrated cuisines of Turkey’s restaurants, where Know Your Fish
France and China grew up. dishes such as karnıyarık
At the height of the Ottoman (halved aubergines or eggplants The profusion of different species
Empire, in the 16th and 17th stuffed with minced lamb, in the waters around Turkey
centuries, legions of kitchen pine nuts and dried fruit) and makes the country a paradise
staff slaved away on the Sultan’s hünkar begendili köfte (meatballs for fish lovers:
behalf. Court cooks usually served with a smooth purée of Barbun Red mullet
specialized in particular dishes. smoked aubergine and cheese)
Some prepared soups, while grace the menu. Çipura Sea bream
others just grilled meats or fish, Dilbalığı Sole
or dreamed up combinations
Hamsi Anchovy
of vegetables, or baked breads,
or made puddings and Kalamar Squid
sherbets. As Ottoman rule Kalkan Turbot
expanded to North Africa, the
Balkans and parts of southern Kefal Grey mullet
Russia, influences from these Kılıç Swordfish
far-flung places crept into the
Levrek Sea bass
Turkish imperial kitchens.
Complex dishes of finely Lüfer Bluefish
seasoned stuffed meats and Midye Mussels
vegetables, often with such
fanciful names as “lady’s lips”, Palamut Bonito tuna
“Vizier’s fingers” and the “fainting Fresh catch from the Bosphorus on a fish Uskumru Mackerel
Imam”, appeared. This imperial stall in Karaköy
İmam Bayıldı Aubergines, Levrek Pilakisi This stew is Kadayıf Rounds of vermicelli
stuffed with tomatoes, garlic made by simmering sea bass are stuffed with nuts and
and onions, are baked in the fillets with potatoes, carrots, doused with honey to make
oven until meltingly soft. tomatoes, onions and garlic. a sumptuous dessert.
Mezes
As in many southern European countries, a Turkish meal
begins with a selection of appetizing starters known as mezes,
which are placed in the middle of the table for sharing. In a
basic meyhane restaurant, you may be offered olives, cheese
and slices of melon, but in a grander establishment the choice
will be enormous. Mainly consisting of cold vegetables and
salads of various kinds, mezes can also include a number of
hot dishes, such as börek (cheese pastries), fried mussels and
squid. Mezes are eaten with bread and traditionally washed
down with rakı (a clear, anise-flavoured spirit).
Humus with pide bread
Çoban salatası
Zeytinyağlı enginar
(tomato, red onion
(artichokes cooked in olive oil)
and cucumber salad)
Ayşe Fasulye
(green beans with
tomato sauce)
Kavun ile beyaz peynir

(melon with a creamy,
feta-like cheese)
Yalacı yaprak dolması
(stuffed vine leaves)
Tarama (a dip made with cod’s
roe, garlic and olive oil)
Turkish Breads
Bread is the cornerstone of every meal in Turkey and comes
in a wide range of shapes and styles. Besides ekmek (crusty
white loaves), the other most common types of Turkish
bread are yufka and pide. Yufka, the typical bread of nomadic
communities, is made from thinly rolled sheets of dough
which are cooked on a griddle, and dried to help preserve
them. They can then be heated up and served to accompany
any main meal as required. Pide is the type of flatbread that is
usually served with mezes and kebabs in restaurants. It consists
of a flattened circle or oval of dough, sometimes brushed with
beaten egg and sprinkled with sesame seeds or black cumin,
that is baked in an oven. It is a staple during many religious
festivals. In the month of Ramadan, no meal is considered
complete without pide. Another popular bread is simit, a crisp,
ring-shaped savoury loaf that comes covered in sesame seeds. A delivery of freshly baked simit loaves
What to Drink in Turkey

The most common drink in Turkey is tea (çay), which is
normally served black in small, tulip-shaped glasses. It will
be offered to you wherever you go: in shops and bazaars, and
even in banks and offices. Breakfast is usually accompanied
by tea, whereas small cups of strong Turkish coffee (kahve) are
drunk mid-morning and also at the end of meals. Cold drinks
include a variety of fresh fruit juices, such as orange and cherry,
and refreshing syrup-based sherbets. Although Turkey does
produce its own wine and beer, the most popular alcoholic
drink is rakı, which is usually served to accompany mezes. Soft-drink seller
Soft Drinks Alcoholic Drinks

Bottled mineral Turkey’s national alcoholic drink is rakı, a clear,
water (su) is sold in anise-flavoured spirit that turns cloudy when
corner shops and water is added and is drunk with fish and
served in restau- mezes. The Turkish wine industry has yet to
rants everywhere. realize its full potential. Kavaklıdere and Doluca,
If you’re feeling the best-known brands, are overpriced for
adventurous, you table wines. Villa Doluca is preferable. Sevilen
might like to try a offers several interesting wines, such as
glass of ayran, salty Vişne suyu Ayran Majestic, and an outstanding Merlot. All alcohol
liquid yogurt. Boza is heavily taxed, making simple table wine a
is made from bulgur wheat or millet and is luxury. The locally brewed Efes Pilsen beer,
another local drink to sample. There is always a also widely available on draught, is quite
variety of refreshing, cold fruit and vegetable drinkable but note that alcohol
juices available. They include cherry juice (vişne is not usually served in
suyu), turnip juice (şalgam suyu) and şıra, a juice cheaper restaurants
made from fermented grapes. and kebab houses.
Coffee and Tea

Turkish coffee is dark, strong
and served in tiny cups, with the
grounds left in the bottom. It is
ordered according to the amount
of sugar required: az (little), orta
(medium) or şekerli (a lot). Insist
on Turkish coffee, or the
waiter may assume you
want Nescafé. Tea (çay)
is served with sugar
but without milk,
Rakı Beer Red wine White
and it comes in a
wine
small, tulip-shaped
glass. Also popular
Turkish coffee is a
Traditional samovar are apple- (elma-), rosehip-
very strong drink and
for tea (kuşburnu-) and mint- (nane-)
an acquired taste for
flavoured teas. most people.
Sahlep is a
winter drink
made from
Apple tea Limeflower tea orchid root.
Where to Eat and Drink

Karakol ¨¨¨ Price Guide
Istanbul Turkish Map 5 F3 Prices categories include a three-course
Inside Topkapı Palace grounds, next meal for one (excluding alcohol), and all
Seraglio Point to Aya Irene extra charges including service and tax.
Bizim Mutfak ¨ Tel (0212) 514 94 94 ¨ under ¨35
Lokanta Map 5 D3 Housed next to the 6th-century ¨¨ ¨35 to ¨50
¨¨¨ over ¨50
Şeyhülislam Hayri Efendi Cad 2, church Haghia Eirene, Karakol
Eminönü, 34110 presents Turkish cuisine at its best.
Tel (0212) 522 78 46 Dining is mainly outdoors, but in Sultanahmet Fish House ¨¨
Locals flock to this modern dining winter patrons can sit inside the Seafood/Kebab Map 5 D4
establishment to enjoy a variety of restored sentry-post building. Prof Kasim Ismail Gürkan
home-cooked style soups, meats, Cad 14, 34400
vegetarian delights and desserts. Tel (0212) 527 44 45
Sultanahmet Great place for fish and seasonal
Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabi ¨ Fes Café ¨ specials including salt-baked sea
Kebab Map 5 E3 Café Map 5 D4 bass. Wide range of mezes along
Hocapaşa Sok 3A, Sirkeci, 34400 Ali Baba Türbe Sok 25, with a number of kebab choices.
Tel (0212) 520 33 61 Nuruosmaniye, 34200
Unpretentious restaurant that Tel (0212) 526 30 71
serves a delicious, succulent An unusually contemporary café DK Choice
marinated lamb kebab on warm in a street near the bazaar. Fruit Giritli Restaurant ¨¨¨
lavaş (flatbread). A speciality dish sherbets, tasty coffees and Cretan Meyhane Map 5 E5
from northeastern Anatolia. modest lunch options in cool Keresteci Hakkı Sok,
retro surroundings. Cankurtaran, 34122
Can Oba ¨¨ Tel (0212) 458 22 70
Turkish Map 5 E3 A Cretan restaurant housed in a
Hocapaşa Sok 10, Sirkeci, 34400 DK Choice charming 19th-century wooden
Tel (0212) 522 12 15 Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi ¨ mansion, with a lovely courtyard
A lively lokanta specializing in Kebab Map 5 D4 for summer dining. A good-value
kebabs, but also does a wide Divanyolu Cad 12, 34400 all-you-can-eat menu, which
range of other dishes, from fish Tel (0212) 520 05 66 includes unlimited alcoholic
soup to chocolate puddings. This place is famous for its drinks and about 20 different
delicious grilled köfte (meatballs),
( kinds of meze. Grilled seasonal
which have garnered many fish features in the main course.
DK Choice famous admirers over the years –
Imbat ¨¨ find their written reviews framed
Regional/Turkish Map 5 E3 on the walls. Eat köfte
te with piyaz Seasons Restaurant ¨¨¨
Hudavendigar Cad 34, (bean salad), and follow it up International Map 5 E4
Sirkeci, 34410 with semolina helva for dessert. Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane
Tel (0212) 520 71 91 Sok 1, Cankurturan
A very popular restaurant atop Tel (0212) 402 31 50
the Orient Express Hotel. The Amedros ¨¨ Located inside the hotel,
lamb is highly recommended, Turkish/International Map 5 D4 converted from a late Ottoman
and the menu also caters to Hoca Rϋstem Sok 7, Divanyolu, prison, this popular restaurant
vegetarians. Attentive staff Tel (0212) 522 83 56 offers everything from sushi and
ensure a pleasant dining Stylish little place with unusually antipasti to classic Turkish fare.
experience. Reserve ahead to good service and a great ambience,
secure a coveted Bosphorus- offering a range of traditional
facing spot on the terrace. Turkish and Ottoman dishes, along The Bazaar Quarter
with a variety of pastas and steaks. Can Restaurant ¨
Lokanta Map 4 C4
Paşazade ¨¨ Sorguclu Han 19–26, Kapalicarsi
Ottoman Turkish Map 5 E3 Tel (0212) 511 91 53
İbn-i Kemal Sok 5A, Sirkeci, 34110 Workers and shoppers from the
Tel (0212) 513 37 50 Bazaar come here to get their fill of
Smart ground-floor place that offers hearty home-style cooking. The
a variety of Ottoman-style dishes delicious meat broth, thickened
at affordable prices. Try the tasty with egg, is worth the trip.
mahmudiye (a fruity chicken dish).
Gaziantep Burç Ocakbaşı ¨
Balıkçı Sabahattin ¨¨¨ Kebab/Southeast
Seafood Map 5 E5 Anatolian Map 4 C4
Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok 1, Parçacılar Sok 12, Kapalıçarşı
Cankurtaran – Eminönü Tel (0212) 527 15 16
Tel (0212) 458 18 24 This delightful bazaar restaurant
Housed in a restored wooden serves meat dishes from the
mansion near the Armada hotel, southeastern region of Turkey,
this old Istanbul favourite specializes famed for its flavourful kebabs.
in seafood. In summer the crowd of Beautifully cooked lamb cutlets at Karakol Stuffed and dried vegetables are
diners spills out onto garden tables. served outdoors in summer a delicious alternative.
Lale Işkembecesi ¨
Lokanta Map 1 A4
Tarlabaşı Bulvarı 13, 34437
Tel (0212) 252 69 69
Open 24/7, this restaurant is
one of the oldest in the city.
It is popular with late-night
diners for its işkembe, a tripe
soup that is known locally as
a hangover cure.
Mandabatmaz ¨
Café Map 1 A4
Olivia Geçidi 1/A, off İstiklal Cad
Established in 1967 and set in
a tiny hole in the wall, down
an alley off the busy Caddesi,
this is the best place in
The spacious dining area and one of the counters displaying tasty treats at Nar Lokanta Istanbul for thick and rich
Turkish coffee.
Havuzlu ¨¨ DK Choice
Lokanta Map 4 C4 Canim Cigerim ¨ Van Kahvaltı Evi ¨
Gani Çelebi Sok 3, Grand Bazaar, 36420 Kebab Map 1 A4 Kurdish Map 1 B5
Tel (0212) 527 33 46 Minare Sok 1, 34430 Defterdar Yokusu 52 A
A rare dining option in the Tel (0212) 252 60 60 Tel (0212) 293 64 37
Grand Bazaar, Havuzlu is a Famous for its skewers of liver, This hip Kurdish breakfast joint
pleasant restaurant serving this inexpensive and welcoming offers a lot of regional specialities.
freshly cooked local food. restaurant is popular with locals There can be a wait to get in,
Try the soups. and tourists alike. Get succulent but the food is worth it.
meat pieces wrapped up with
Darüzziyafe ¨¨¨ onions and greens. Try the 49 Cukurcuma ¨¨
Ottoman Turkish Map 4 B3 mouthwatering kunefee (sweet International Map 1 B4
Şifahane Sok 6, Süleymaniye, 36420 cheese pastry) for dessert. Turnacıbaşı Sok 49, 34433
Tel (0212) 511 84 14 Tel (0212) 249 00 48
Located in the former imaret Scrumptious pizza and excellent
(soup kitchens) of the Datlı Maya ¨ Turkish wines from the island
Süleymaniye Mosque complex, Lokanta Map 1 B5 of Bozcaada are available at this
this atmospheric restaurant Türkgücü Cad 59/A, Cihangir cool café with exposed-brick
offers a wide range of traditional Tel (0212) 292 90 56 decor. Friendly service.
Turkish dishes. Exuberant chef Dilara Erbay leads
this restaurant, which features a Antiochia ¨¨
menu of creatively reimagined Kebab Map 1 A5
DK Choice Turkish street-food staples. Asmalı Mescit, Gen Yazgan Sok 3
Nar Lokanta ¨¨¨ Tel (0212) 244 08 20
Lokanta Map 5 D4 Fasuli ¨ A great spot to come for
Armaggan store 5th Floor, Regional/Lokanta Map 5 F1 delicious southeastern Turkish
Nuruosmaniye Cad 65 Kılıçalipaşa CD 6, Tophane, 34425 food, including spicy dips,
Tel (0212) 522 28 00 Tel (0212) 243 65 80 tangy salads with wild
An excellent choice tucked Famous for the Black-Sea-style thyme, pistachio kebabs and
away in the Grand Bazaar, Nar beans after which it is named, much more.
makes a point of only using the menu at Fasuli also features
seasonal ingredients, from cornbread, mihlama (fondue) Ara Kafe ¨¨
which they fashion 50 dishes and salads. Turkish/International Map 1 A4
daily. Step into the glamorous Tosbağ Sok 8, 34433
dining room inside and take Furreyya ¨ Tel (0212) 245 41 05
your pick from an open Seafood Map 1 A5 The black-and-white photos
buffet of vegetable specials. Serdari Ekrem Sok 2B on the walls are the works of
There is also an extensive
extensive list Tel (0212) 252 48 53 Istanbul-Armenian Ara Güler,
of Turkish wines. This miniature restaurant, a Turkey’s best-known photo-
stone’s throw from the Galata grapher. No alcohol but milky
Tower, serves tasty fish soups, Indian teas and home-made
wraps and sandwiches. lemonades won’t disappoint.
Beyoğlu
Café Privato ¨ Helvetia ¨ Culinary Institute ¨¨
Café Map 1 A5 Lokanta Map 1 A5 Fusion Map 1 A5
Timarcı Sok 3/B, Galata Asmalı Mescit Mh, Gen Yazgan Meşrutiyet Cad 59, Asmalı
Tel (0212) 293 20 55 Sok 12 Mescit, 34437
Run by a friendly woman Tel (0212) 245 87 80 Tel (0212) 251 22 14
from Turkey’s northeastern Good place for vegetarians, Feast on persimmon martinis,
neighbour country, Georgia, though there are a number of dried aubergine (eggplant)
this homely little café serves one choices for meat lovers as well. stuffed kebabs and bean and
of the best breakfast spreads After eating, enjoy an aromatic rice dishes in the dining room
in Turkey. herbal tea. of this cookery school.
For more information on types of restaurants see p340–41
Çok Çok Thai ¨¨¨

Thai Map 1 A4
Mesrutiyet Cad 51, 34420
Tel (0212) 292 64 96
Up-market restaurant with a
hip ambience and friendly staff.
The honey-grilled salmon with
mung bean salad is a winner.
Leb-i derya ¨¨¨

International Map 1 A5
Richmond Otel Kat 6, İstiklal Cad 227
Tel (0212) 243 43 75
Sample a modern take on
traditional Turkish cuisine on the
The entrance to Akdeniz Hatay Sofrasi, Istanbul top floor of the refined Richmond
Hotel. A good breakfast buffet.
Fıccın ¨¨ Kiva ¨¨
Meyhane Map 1 A4 Kebab Map 5 D1 Meze by Lemon Tree ¨¨¨
Kallavi Sok 7/1–13/1 Galata Kulesi Meydanı 4 Meyhane Map 1 A4
Tel (0212) 293 37 86 Tel (0212) 292 00 37 Meşrutiyet Cad 83/B
This Circassian-influenced meze A huge range of Anatolian dishes Tel (0212) 252 83 02
place comprises a series of eateries to try at this vibrant restaurant. Very chic and upmarket meyhane
set on the same street. Try the çerkez Excellent beef casseroles and a offering imaginative twists on
tavuk (a garlicky chicken and walnut choice of rice items on the menu. traditional Turkish dishes. Great
dish) or the signature meat pie. variety of mezes, tender fish and
Lokanta Maya ¨¨ a wide range of wines.
Imroz ¨¨ Lokanta Map 5 E1
Meyhane Map 1 A4 Kemankeş Cad 35 A La Mouette ¨¨¨
Nevizade Sok 24 Tel (0212) 252 68 84 Turkish Map 1 A5
Tel (0212) 249 90 73 Didem, the French-Culinary- Tomtom Kaptan Sok 18, 34433
This friendly meyhane is one of the Institute trained chef at this Tel (0212) 292 44 67
longest-established on Istanbul’s charming restaurant, creates a well A smart restaurant with an
liveliest street, Nevizade Sokak. presented menu of daily specials, impressive dégustation menu –
Sample the meze and grilled fish offering standard Turkish dishes sample a gamut of creative
while enjoying the ambience. with a contemporary twist. dishes. Superb city views.
Jash ¨¨ Mekan ¨¨ Munferit ¨¨¨

Meyhane Map 1 C4 Meyhane Map 1 A4 Mediterranean Map 1 A4
Pürletaş Mah, Cihangir Cad 9 Eski Çiçekçi Sok 3, 34250 Yeni Çarşı Cad 19, Galatasaray, 34425
Tel (0212) 244 30 42 Tel (0212) 252 60 52 Tel (0212) 252 50 67
Armenian mezes are served in An Armenian meyhane just off Cutting-edge interiors and great
this cozy meyhane. It can get a Istiklal Caddesi offering mezes such food combine at Munferit. At the
bit raucous when musicians as topik, which is made with weekends this hip restaurant turns
arrive with their accordions. chickpeas, currants and cinnamon. into an impromptu club.
Zencefil ¨¨ Ninja ¨¨¨

DK Choice Lokanta Map 1 B3 Japanese Map 1 C4
Kahve 6 ¨¨ Şht Muhtar Mh, Kurabiye Sok 8, 34430 Inonu Cad 43, Gümüşsuyu, 34398
Breakfast Map 1 B5 Tel (0212) 243 82 34 Tel (0212) 237 23 28
Anahtar Sok 13, Cihangir A very pretty vegetarian café set Ninja serves grills as well as
Tel (0212) 293 08 49 in a glasshouse building. A calm noodles and sushi. Smaller booths
A great place for breakfast, oasis away from the noise and for private parties.
Kahve 6 offers poached eggs traffic of Taksim’s busier end.
with spinach and garlic sauce
and “life-saver simit” – a seeded Further Afield
bread ring with all the essential Asude ¨
Turkish breakfast jams, cheeses Lokanta
and olives. A trendy Cihangir Perihan Abla Sok 4,
hangout with creative versions Kuzguncuk, Üsküdar
of old favourites. Tel (0216) 334 44 14
A crowded family-run lunch spot
with a few revolving specials.
Karaköy Lokantası ¨¨ Home-made Turkish ravioli is
Lokanta/Meyhane Map 5 E1 the speciality on Mondays.
Kemankeş Cad 37 , Karaköy, 34425
Tel (0212) 292 44 55 Kanaat ¨
Beautiful tiled interiors at this hip Lokanta
lokanta. Popular lunch choice for Selmanipak Cad 9, Üsküdar
businessmen in the area. Try mezes Tel (0216) 341 54 44
or the chicken and lemon pasta One of Üsküdar’s favourite
served with dried mint and paprika. Diners relaxing in the gently lit interiors at restaurants, Kanaat was
A refined meyhane in the evening. Lokanta Maya established back 1931,
and offers a wide range of lunch offering delicious food. There is

specials. Delicious milky pudding no wine list, but ask the waiters
for dessert. for their recommendations.
Pierre Loti Coffee House ¨

Café DK Choice
Gümüşsuyu Balmumcu Sok 1, Eyüp 360 East ¨¨¨
Tel (0212) 581 26 96 Fusion
Named after the French novelist, Albay Faik 31, Sozdener Cad,
Pierre Loti, this is a modest tea Kadıköy
spot, famous for its spectacular Tel (0216) 542 43 50
views up the Golden Horn. Take a boat ride to this sleek,
upmarket establishment that
is part of the 360 Istanbul chain.
DK Choice It doubles up as a refined dining
Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası ¨¨ space and a night club joint in
nightclub
Kebab the fashionable neighbourhood
Ahmediye Cad 44, Fatih, 34091 of Moda. The sea bass and the
Tel (0212) 444 72 47 lamb are cooked to perfection. Beautiful sunset view from the funky
This restaurant is a showcase 360 East also has wonderful rooftop dining area at 360 East
of the Antakya region’s views and offers entertainment
flavourful cuisine. Try the in the form of international DJs the locale for a set of 1970s
sour minced meat, chickpea and world-class musicians. Turkish films. Good seafood.
and pomegranate soup or
the home-made bread
cooked in an infusion of Angel ¨¨¨
cheese and herbs. Call ahead Meyhane Thrace and the Sea
to sample the special salt- Salacak Sahil Yolu 46, Üsküdar, 34470 of Marmara
baked chicken. Tel (0216) 553 04 26
A smart meyhane which looks out BURSA: Çıcek Izgara ¨
towards Seraglio Point. Fish mezes Kebab
are a big draw here, as well as salt- Belediye Cad 5, Heykel
DK Choice baked John Dory, which is wheeled Tel (0224) 221 12 88
Çiya ¨¨ to the table girded by blue flames. Fantastic range of tender kebabs,
Kebab/Regional Turkish köfte (meatballs) and delicious
Güneşli Bahçe Sok 48/B, Beyti ¨¨¨ soups all elegantly served in a
Caferağa, Kadıköy Kebab period house in central Bursa.
Tel (0216) 330 31 90 Orman Sok 8, Florya, 34153
A humble trio of kebab houses Tel (0212) 663 29 90 BURSA: Çırağan Restaurant ¨
make up Çiya, all located along A pilgrimage site for meat lovers, Turkish/International
the same Kadıköy street. Beyti delights with its big portions. Çekirge Cad, Süleyman Çelebi Parkı
The lokanta-style café offers Do not miss the mixed grill. No 155, 16150
a plethora of meze and Tel (0224) 234 03 25
salads, while the other two Lacivert ¨¨¨ There is something to suit the taste
restaurants concentrate on a Meyhane of each family member here. The
wide range of tender kebabs. Körfez Cad 57, Anadolu Hisarı, 34410 large bakery furnace turns out
Tel (0216) 413 37 53 traditional pides (Turkish flatbread).
Practically under the second
Incir Altı ¨¨ Bosphorus bridge, Lacivert was
Meyhane DK Choice
Arabacılar Sok 4, Beylerbeyi, 34398 BURSA: Kebapçı İskender ¨
Tel (0216) 557 66 86 Kebab
A beautiful walled garden Tayyare Kültür Merkezi yanı,
surrounds this lovely restaurant. Atatürk Cad 60, 16330
Classic Istanbul mezes line the Tel (0224) 221 10 76
menu. The grilled octopus and A national favourite, İskender
fish in vine leaves are highlights. kebab restaurants are found
all across Turkey, and this place
Kosinitza ¨¨ is where the dish was born.
Meyhane İskenderr is dönerr kebab served
Bereketli Sok 2, Kuzguncuk, Üsküdar with a tomato dressing and
Tel (0216) 334 04 00 melted butter on a single layer
Tickle your taste buds with of diced pidee bread – heavenly.
an interesting combination of
flavours – relish delicately spiced
fish stew or go for the usual BURSA: Zeynel İnegöl Köftecisi ¨
plain grilled offerings. Kebab
İzmir Yolu üzeri, 16500
Suna’nın yeri Suna Balık ¨¨ Tel (0224) 618 03 16
Meyhane Feast on inegöl köfte, a special
Kandilli İskele Cad 4, Kandilli meatball made with minced
Tel (0216) 332 32 41 Patrons sitting outside one of Çiya’s meat and red onions, cooked
An unpretentious fish restaurant establishments on Kadıköy street on oak-wood grills.
ECEABAT: Maydos Restaurant ¨ GELIBOLU:

International Gelibolu Osmanlı Mutfağı ¨
İsmetpaşa Paşa Mah, Kilitbahir Yolu, Ottoman Turkish
İstiklal Cad 105 Atatürk Cad 34, 17500, Çanakkale
Tel (0286) 814 14 54 Tel (0286) 566 12 25
This Australian-run restaurant Dishes once made to please the
in Maydos offers a very varied sultans are now enjoyed by all
menu. Its location by the water- food lovers. Aubergine fillet or
front encourages outdoor dining deep-fried dumplings dipped in
on fair days. Also runs tours of the honey syrup are favourites.
Gallipoli World War I battlefields.
GELIBOLU:
ECEABAT: Liman Restaurant ¨¨ Gelibolu Restaurant ¨¨
Seafood Seafood
İsmet Paşa Mah, İstiklal Cad 67, 17900 İskele Meydanı, Vapur İskelesi
Tel (0286) 814 27 55 yanı, 17500
A low-key seafood restaurant Tel (0286) 566 12 27
with a coffee shop feel, especially Conveniently located by the port,
on the outdoor terrace. One this eatery serves delicacies such
Informal indoor and outdoor dining at speciality is paçanga – a savoury as octopus, calamari, grilled fish
Yelken Café, Ayvalık filo roll, deep fried with pastrami and anchovies in Black Sea style.
and cheese, though most people
BURSA: Darüzziyafe Bursa ¨¨ come here to enjoy the seafood. İZNIK: Köfteci Yusuf ¨
Ottoman Turkish Kebab
II Murat Cad 36, Muradiye Cami EDIRNE: Cigerci Kemal Üsta ¨ Selçuk Mah, Atatürk Cad 73, 16860
Karşısı, 16050 Traditional Turkish Tel (0224) 444 61 62
Tel (0224) 224 64 40 Ortakapı Cad 3 Inexpensive eatery rustling up
Located in the former soup A humble option and a great delectable grilled meat, chicken
kitchen of Ottoman-era place to try Edirne’s signature and köfte (meatballs) served with
Muradiye Mosque, this dish of tender liver, best eaten pepper, garlic and parsley paste.
restaurant’s specialities include with fried red peppers, sumac
Yufkalı Darüzziyafe köfte (meatballs). smothered onions and yogurt. İZNIK: Umut Restaurant ¨¨
Good desserts. Seafood
EDIRNE: Göl Sahil Yolu 24, 16860
BURSA: Uludağ Kebapçısı ¨¨ Sivrikaya Restaurant ¨ Tel (0224) 757 07 38
Kebab Turkish/Seafood Situated on the lakefront, with
Uluyol Şirin Sok 12, 16050 Migros Kavşağı, Tren İstasyonu Cad, an outdoor section shaded with
Tel (0224) 251 45 51 22100 vines. Expect to find freshwater
One of the oldest and longest- Tel (0284) 236 21 64 fish dishes such as skewered
established kebab restaurants Sivrikaya partners a dairy farm catfish and carp.
in Turkey, this place is a city known for its delicious dairy
landmark for good reason. products, which are incorporated
Simply delicious kebabs. into the restaurant’s menu.
The Aegean
BURSA: Skylight Restaurant ¨¨¨ EDIRNE:
Mediterranean Hanedan Restaurant ¨¨ ASSOS:
Hilton Hotel, Yeni Yalova Cad 347, Turkish Nazlıhan Restaurant ¨¨
16210 Karaağaç Yolu üzeri, Iki Köprü Arası, Turkish
Tel (0224) 500 05 05 Tunca Köprüsü yanı, 22100 İskele Mevkii, Behramkale, 17860
An elegant restaurant offering Tel (0284) 214 21 22 Tel (0286) 721 73 85 86
creative fish, meat and A renowned and large facility The usual Turkish fare, in a
vegetable dishes. Gorgeous located on the Tunca River. truly romantic setting. Enjoy a
views of the city from its top- Besides the mezes, they serve special meal on the waterfront of
floor location. great fish and meat dishes. the ancient harbour of Assos.
ÇANAKKALE: Cafe Du Port ¨¨

International
Yalı Cad 12, 17100
Tel (0286) 217 29 08
French toasts and omelette for
breakfast, and freshly brewed
Turkish tea and cakes in mid-
afternoon. Good hearty food.
ÇANAKKALE:
Rıhtim Restaurant ¨¨
Seafood
Eski Balıkhane Sok 7–9, 12100
Tel (0286) 212 53 67
Peaceful waterfront location
with fantastic seafood. The daily
catch is displayed on a counter
by the entrance. The tasteful, softy lit interior at Skylight Restaurant, Bursa
Picturesque setting of Mimoza Restaurant, Bodrum Peninsula
AYVALIK: Avşar Büfe ¨ BERGAMA: BODRUM PENINSULA:

Fast Food Kardeşler Restaurant ¨ Bodrum Mantı & Cafe ¨¨
Barbaros Cad, 10400 Turkish Turkish
Tel (0266) 312 98 21 İzmir Yolu Üzeri, 35700 Bodrum Yarımadası, Göltürkbükü,
One of the most well-known Tel (0232) 631 08 56 İnönü Cad147, 48483
sandwich kiosks in the country. On the Izmir highway leading Tel (0252) 377 51 00
Try the famous Ayvalık Tostu, to Bergama and its acropolis, A pretty Mediterranean restaurant
a toasted cheese, sausage and Kardeşler offers a daily buffet of famous for its mantı (Turkish
pickle sandwich. Food is served traditional food. Grilled meat dumplings), which come with a
from a 1960s-style minibus. dishes are made to order. variety of toppings and fillings.
A wide choice of omelettes is
AYVALIK: Paşalı Restaurant ¨ BERGAMA: also available.
Lokanta Meydan Restaurant ¨
Talatpaşa Cad 14, 14000 Lokanta BODRUM PENINSULA:
Tel (0266) 312 50 18 Mustafa Yazıcı Cad 17/A, 35700 Limon Cafe ¨¨
Relish hearty food at the centre Tel (0232) 631 52 25 Café/Turkish
of Ayvalık’s market district. Popular A short walk from the museum Bodrum Yarımadası, Gümüşlük Yalı
for its soups. this restaurant is a no-frills local Mevkii 1, 48400
favourite. It offers daily cooked Tel (0252) 394 40 44 Closed winter
dishes that change by the season. A half-hour drive from Bodrum, in
DK Choice the village of Gümüşlük, this café
AYVALIK:
AYVA
V LIK: Yelken
Y Café ¨¨ BODRUM: Bodrum El serves cakes and lemonade in the
International Vino Restaurant ¨¨ afternoon, as well as a wide range
Çamlık Mevkii İnönü Cad 14, 10400 Regional/Seafood of Turkish mezes and seafood.
Tel (0266) 312 77 82 Omurça Mah, Pamili Sok 14, 48400
In an area full of touristy Tel (0252) 313 87 70 BODRUM PENINSULA:
restaurants, Yelken is a gem Terrace restaurant in a peaceful Mimoza Restaurant ¨¨¨
and a local favourite. Located on backstreet with delicious seafood Seafood
the waterfront, away from the and awesome views overlooking Bodrum Yarımadası, Gümüşlük,
bustle of the town, this casual the town and Crusader castle. 48970
restaurant rustles up delicious Tel (0252) 394 31 39 Closed winter
Aegean, Italian and seafood BODRUM: Elegant beach restaurant. High-
dishes cooked in high-quality Meyhane Evgenia ¨¨ lights on the menu include
virgin olive oil. Fine service. Aegean/Seafood grilled octopus and clams, and
Çarşı Sok, 48400 shrimps on vine leaves.
Tel (0533) 305 54 19
AYVALIK: Şehir Kulübü ¨¨¨ Informal, family-run restaurant ÇEŞME: İmren Lokantası ¨¨
Seafood tucked away behind the fish Lokanta
Gazinolar Cad, Ayvalık Merkez, 10400 market. The mezes are all full of 16 Eylül Mah, 3004 Sok 81, 35940
Tel (0266) 312 36 76 flavour; ask the owners for their Tel (0232) 712 76 70
An elegant city-centre restaurant recommendations – you won’t Sample classic kebabs and
on the waterfront. Try karagöz – be disappointed. Turkish food at İmren Lokantası.
a kind of sea bream rarely The menu offers a lot of options
available elsewhere. Reservations BODRUM: including mezes and stews.
recommended at the weekend. Marina Yacht Club ¨¨¨
Seafood/International ÇEŞME:
BEHRAMKALE: Kale Restaurant ¨ Neyzen Tevfik Cad, 48000 Ferdi Baba Restaurant ¨¨¨
Turkish Tel (0252) 316 12 28 Seafood
Akropol Yolu, Behramkale Köyü, A restaurant and club in the 5464 Sok 3 Şifne, 35950
Çanakkale Marina with an all-day menu to Tel (0232) 717 21 45 Closed winter
Tel (0543) 317 49 69 choose from. Good food, An excellent seafood restaurant.
Built against the ancient walls cocktails and fine jazz musicians The sea bass in liquor and deep-
of Assos, Kale serves gözleme perform in the club section. fried fish are delicious. Ask for the
(stuffed wrap), mantı (Turkish A great place to chill out with waiter’s daily recommendations.
ravioli) and ayran (yogurt drink). friends and soak up the view. Reservations required.

FOÇA: Celep Restaurant ¨¨¨

Seafood
Fevzipaşa Mah, Reha Midilli
Cad 48, 35000
Tel (0232) 812 14 95
Located in one of the most
pleasant northern Aegean
towns, the daily catch at Celep
is kept in a pool in the
restaurant, and diners can
choose their fish to be cooked.
İZMIR: Kır Çiçeği

Restaurant ¨¨
Kebab
Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cad 83, Alsancak
Tel (0232) 464 30 90
The exterior of İdaköy Çiftlik Evi, Edremit Near the Hilton hotel, in the
trendy Alsancak neighbourhood,
ÇEŞME: Maria’nın Bahçesi ¨¨¨ DIDIM: Lush Café and this restaurant offers an
Seafood Restaurant ¨¨ amazing array of kebabs, pides
Kemalpaşa Cad 1, 35937 International (Turkish pizza), fresh salads
Tel (0232) 716 05 76 Çamlık Mah Sok 445, 09270 and desserts.
The menu here celebrates Aegean Tel (0256) 813 33 61
delicacies, plus clams, sea urchins, Best known for both its steaks İZMIR: Mezzaluna
and fish cooked with fresh herbs. and friendly staff, this well- Restaurant ¨¨
There are the usual fish dishes for located restaurant is a firm Italian
the more conservative. favourite with tourists and Konak Pier, Atatük Cad 19, 35260
locals alike. Tel (0232) 489 69 44
CUNDA ISLAND: Taş Kahve ¨ Housed inside a historic
Turkish/International EDREMIT: customs office designed by
Sahil Boyu, Mevlana Cad 20, Alibey İdaköy Çiftlik Evi ¨¨ Gustave Eiffel, Mezzaluna is
Adası, 10400 Regional/Aegean a good chain restaurant offering
Tel (0266) 327 11 66 Çamlıbel Köyü, 10300 delicious and authentic Italian
Atmospheric restaurant, housed Tel (0535) 222 56 66 food. Try the gnocchi and
in a lofty, Neo-Classical building, Seasonal delicacies, including veal carpaccio served with
much frequented by locals. mezes that incorporate locally fresh arugula
It offers an excellent breakfast grown herbs and cooked in
buffet and outdoor tables on home-made virgin olive oil. İZMIR: Deniz Restaurant ¨¨¨
the waterfront. Reservations are required. Seafood
Izmir Palas Hotel, Atatürk
CUNDA ISLAND: FOÇA: İğdeli Cafe ¨ Cad 188, Alsancak
Bay Nihat Restaurant ¨¨¨ Café Tel (0232) 464 44 99
Seafood Reha Midlii Cad 40, 35680 This long-standing seafood joint
Sahil Boyu, Mevlana Cad, 10400 Tel (0232) 812 81 27 is much favoured by locals for
Alibey Adası Ayvalık Sample Aegean coffee made its succulent fish dishes, mezes
Tel (0266) 327 10 63 with mastic gum or go for and refined atmosphere.
The most famous and expensive Mesopotamian-style coffee, Reservations are essential for
seafood restaurant in Cunda known locally as dibek kahvesi. Friday and Saturday evenings.
Island. Seafood mezes are made
with local shellfish and fresh herbs. İZMIR: Körfez Restaurant ¨¨¨
Go for the kidonya (a local clam Seafood
cooked in white wine and spices). Atatürk Cad 182/A 1, Kordon, 35200
Tel (0232) 421 01 90
DENIZLI: Kebapçı Halil ¨ Upscale, elegant and famous
Kebab establishment. Sample
Eski Sarayköy Cad 357, Sok 11, the grouper, slowly cooked
Bayramyeri, 20100 in a thick layer of salt. There
Tel (0258) 261 13 57 is a great selection of starters
The speciality of the kebab chef and a wide range of desserts
and former butcher here is the on offer, too.
denizli kebab – made with lamb
and slow-grilled on mastic gum KARACASU:
tree wood. Anatolia Restaurant ¨
Regional
DIDIM: Circus Restaurant ¨¨ Geyre Köyü, Karacasu, 09385
Italian Tel (0256) 448 81 38
Ataürk Bulv 221, 09270 Anatolia feels like an oasis as
Tel (0256) 813 74 17 it houses a lush garden of
Delightful, cosy place serving flowers. Waiters present
a varied menu of zesty dishes. beautifully prepared dishes in
The garlic prawn starter is a must. The attractive interior with Chinese lamps large trays. Located very near to
Attentive service. at Fondragonpearl, Adana the ancient city of Aphrodisias.
KÜÇÜKKUYU ADATEPE KÖYÜ: PAMUKKALE: Kayas Restaurant ¨

Dut Dibi Kahvesi ¨ Kebab
Café Atatürk Cad 3, 20280
Adatepe Köyü, 17980 Tel (0258) 272 29 35
Tel (0286) 752 65 37 Centrally located restaurant with
Situated in the centre of sleepy friendly staff and service. Go for
Adatepe village, this is a typical köfte (meatballs) and şiş kebab.
village café serving mantı (dump-
lings), gözleme (stuffed wrap), tea PAMUKKALE:
and ayran (yogurt drink). A casual Yörük Evi Restaurant ¨
and refreshing outdoor setting. Turkish
Karahayıt Village, Atatürk Cad, 20180
KUŞADASI: Tel (0258) 271 42 43
Antepli Restaurant ¨¨ Gözleme (stuffed wrap) is the main
Kebab/Southeast Anatolian dish here, with a choice of fillings.
Akyar Mevki Ege Vista Alış Veriş They also have saç kavurma (diced
Merkezi 4/4, 09400 lamb cooked on an iron plate).
Tel (0256) 618 10 08
The chef at Antepli, located slightly SELÇUK: Petek Çöp Şiş ¨
away from the centre of Kuşadası, Kebab
makes delicious pistachio kebabs, Atatürk Cad, Selçuk Devlet Hastanesi
cooked on a skewer. Karşısı, 35920 Innovative setting at Kaplan Dağ
Tel (0232) 892 40 77 Restaurant, Tire
KUŞADASI: The local delicacy here is çöp şiş –
Ayhan Usta Restaurant ¨¨ small pieces of lean lamb grilled
Turkish/Seafood on tiny wood chops, served with Mediterranean
Setur Marina, 09460 grilled tomatoes, peppers and rice. Turkey
Tel (0256) 618 04 59
Amazing views of the marina SELÇUK: Artemis Restaurant ¨¨ ADANA: Yüzevler Kebap ¨¨
and Aegean Sea accompany Aegean Kebab
the great mix of seafood and Şirince Village, 35920 Ziyapaşa Bulvarı Kurtuluş Mah,
succulent kebabs. Fresh mezes Tel (0232) 898 32 40 Yüzevler Apt 25, Seyhan, 01030
are prepared daily. Wine house producing grape and Tel (0322) 454 75 13
fruit wines. There is a cheese- and Savour mouthwatering beyti
KUŞADASI: wine-tasting table in the garden. kebab (meat on a skewer) or go
Kazım Usta Restaurant ¨¨¨ for the sizzling Adana-style kebab
Seafood TIRE: Kaplan Dağ Restaurant ¨ with garlic served in pide and
Liman Cad 4, 09400 Aegean with yogurt. Fine service.
Tel (0256) 614 12 26 Kaplan Köy, 35900
Select delicious seafood from a Tel (0232) 512 66 52 ADANA:
refrigerated counter or choose Good vegetarian restaurant offering Fondragonpearl Restaurant ¨¨¨
from a wide array of meze. The out- keşkek (a beaten wheat and meat Chinese
door seating area is found under dish served at traditional weddings). Hilton Hotel, Sinanpasa Mah, Haci
a lovely canopy of green vines. Sabanci Bul, 01180
TROY: Hisarlık Restaurant ¨ Tel (0322) 355 50 00
PAMUKKALE: Ece Restaurant ¨ Lokanta Chic restaurant serving excellent
Turkish Truva Sit Alanı Girişi, Tevfikiye Köyü, Chinese food – the style here is
Karahayıt Village, 20290 17060, Çanakkale mainly Cantonese. Do not miss
Tel (0258) 271 45 02 Tel (0542) 243 93 59 the sweet and sour chicken.
A short walk from most hotels in Casual place with fresh Turkish
Pamukkale, this is a good budget food. The only restaurant before ALANYA: Red Tower Brewery
choice. Choose potato, spinach or the entrance of the ancient city and Restaurant ¨¨
cheese filling with home-made of Troy. The owner is known to be International
gözleme (stuffed wrap). the best tour guide of Troy. Iskele Cad 80
Tel (0242) 513 66 64
Sample a range of traditional
Turkish dishes and international
spread including pastas and
pizzas. Great views, sushi bar,
live music and decent beer
brewed on site.
ALANYA:
Harbour Restaurant ¨¨¨
Seafood
Rıhtım Cad, İskele Meydanı, Kızıl Kule
yanı, 07400
Tel (0242) 512 10 19
A local favourite, with a wide
choice of seafood prepared by
experienced chefs. Reservations
are recommended, especially
Kazım Usta Restaurant in Kuşadasi, a haven for seafood lovers at weekends.

ANTAKYA: Anadolu Restaurant ¨ ANTALYA:

Southeast Anatolian Seraser Restaurant ¨¨¨ DK Choice
Hürriyet Cad 30/A, 31070 International FETHIYE: Balıkçılar Hali
Tel (0326) 215 33 35 Tuzcular Mah, Karanlık Sok 18, 07100 (Fish Market) ¨¨
Try hummus, oregano or pepper Tel (0242) 247 60 15 Seafood
salad with walnuts. The more Set in a historic building with Balıkçılar Hali 46, 48300
adventurous can try mumbar – indoor and outdoor seating, T (0252) 612 28 06
Tel
sheep intestines stuffed with rice, Seraser boasts exceptional service. For a different dining exper-
onions and herbs. Avocado salad, quail, mussels, ience head to this famous
beef carpaccio, salmon quartet fish market set in an atrium
ANTAKYA: Sultan Sofrası ¨ and rum baba all stand out. surrounded by restaurants.
Southeast Anatolian Buy the fish from the marble
İstiklal Cad 20/A, 31000 DALYAN: Saki ¨ slab at the centre and have
Tel (0326) 213 87 59 Turkish the fishermen clean and deliver
Very popular restaurant serving Gülpınar Mah. Geçit Sokak 21, 48840 it to a particular restaurant to
flavourful fare such as kabak Tel (0541) 284 52 12 be cooked to your liking.
borani – a zucchini dish with chick- Saki is a great value place in the Usually there are 30 kinds of
peas, diced veal, onion, garlic and heart of the town. Located on fish and 40 kinds of shellfish to
peppermint. Or sample delicious the river, it overlooks ancient choose from.
semirsek (a savoury pastry). Kaunos. There is no formal menu,
but there are plenty of freshly
ANTALYA: Castle Restaurant ¨¨ prepared starters to choose from, FETHIYE: Ocakbaşı İskele
Turkish/International as well as tender meat dishes. Restaurant ¨¨
Hıdırlık Kulesi Sokak 75, Kaleiçi, 07040 Kebab/Seafood
Tel (0242) 248 65 94 DALYAN: Gel Gör Restaurant ¨¨ Fevzi Çakmak Cad, Karagözler, 48300
Located on the cliff-edge next to Seafood Tel (0252) 614 94 23
a Roman watch-tower, offering Maraş Mah, Dalko Çarşısı, 48840 On the harbour, just in front of the
fantastic sunset views, the food Tel (0252) 284 50 09 ancient theatre by the marina, this
mixes Turkish and international A great place that benefits from is one of the best local restaurants
classics, all lovingly prepared. its quiet location by the river, for kebabs and seafood.
on the outskirts of town. Choose
ANTALYA: from a staggering menu of GÖCEK:
Stella’s Manzara Restaurant ¨¨ 50 types of starters and wild Blue Restaurant & Bar ¨¨
Mediterranean or farmed fish mains. International
Eski Lara Yolu, 40 07230 Turgut Özal Bulv, 48310
Tel (0242) 316 35 96 DALYAN: Ramazan Han ¨¨ Tel (0252) 645 17 42
A former Italian trattoria and now a Turkish/International A trendy bar and restaurant
glorious Mediterranean restaurant. Maraş Cad, Çarşı İçi, 48840 frequented by yacht owners.
Great service, menu and wine. Tel (0252) 284 41 83 Sample seafood, Turkish and inter-
A wide variety of starters, main national dishes, from pizzas and
courses and desserts feature on burgers to wholesome dinners.
DK Choice the menu here. Relish the Incik
ANTALYA:
ANTAT LYA
Y : 7 Mehmet ¨¨¨ kebab (lamb with vegetables); a GÖCEK: Upper Deck ¨¨
Kebab/Seafood popular draw. There is a special Seafood/International
Atatürk Kültür Parkı 201, 07200 menu for children. Büngüş Koyu, Club Marina, 48310
T (0242) 238 52 00
Tel Tel (0252) 645 14 56
Located west of the city centre, FETHIYE: Alarga Restaurant ¨¨ Good food at a beautiful
7 Mehmet has been the most Turkish/International waterfront location, with tables
prominent local restaurant Yat Limanı 17, 48300 set out on the jetty. There is also
of Antalya for a number of Tel (0252) 601 00 00 a private beach for guests.
generations. The daily mezes are Located just opposite the Extensive menu to choose from.
exceptionally good, as is the marina, Alarga is one of the
tandoori lamb and the salad with few restaurants with a clear GÖCEK:
avocado and plum. Both indoor view of the Fethiye gulf. Tuck The Galley Restaurant ¨¨¨
and outdoor dining options are into the delicious swordfish Turkish/International
available. Great place for families. kebab while enjoying beautiful Port Göcek Marina, 48310
sunset views. Tel (0252) 645 25 35
Owned and run by famous
chef Uğur Vata, who also has
a restaurant in the UK. Delicious
food, a relaxed and informal
atmosphere and amazing views.
KALKAN: Iso’s Kitchen ¨

Turkish/Seafood
Süleyman Yıldız Cad 39, 07960
Tel (0242) 844 24 15
Excellent value for this expensive
resort. The standard Turkish fare
includes great starters and grills.
Set in an atmospheric old Greek
house with beautiful sea views
Inviting, peaceful ambience of Stella’s Manzara Restaurant, Antalya from the terrace.
The beautiful beach location of Buzz Grill & Beach Bar, Ölü Deniz
KALKAN: Korsan Balık ¨ KAYAKÖY: Çin Bal Restaurant ¨¨ main, while the semolina
Seafood Turkish pudding with ice cream makes
Atatürk Cad, 07960 Kayaköy, 48300 a fine ending to a delicious
Tel (0242) 844 36 22 Tel (0252) 618 00 06 Mediterranean meal.
Arguably one of the best places Choose your own piece of lamb
in town for a traditional fish meal or fish and have it grilled over ÖLÜ DENIZ:
made with fresh catch of the charcoal. Dine at shady outdoor Buzz Grill & Beach Bar ¨¨
day. It offers delicious mezes, a tables in summer or inside with International
decent selection of wines, along the roaring log fire in winter. Ölüdeniz Sahil Fethiye Muğla, 48300
with good sea views. Tel (0252) 617 05 26
KAYAKÖY: Levissi ¨¨ A renowned bar and arguably
KALKAN: Turkish one of the world’s most
Aubergine Restaurant ¨¨ Kayaköy, 48300 attractive dining establishments.
International Tel (0535) 275 01 73 Wraps, paninis, margaritas
Yalıboyu Mah 25–27, 07960 Set in a restored period Greek and ice cream cocktails are
Tel (0242) 844 33 32 property at the foot of the ghost available and can all be enjoyed
With a lovely harbourside town, this is an atmospheric on the atmospheric outdoor
location and great ambience, dining spot. Lovely terrace and a rooftop deck.
Aubergine offers a memorable log fire inside on cooler days.
dining experience. Chef’s ÖLÜ DENIZ:
specials include wild boar MERSIN: 20. Cadde ¨¨ Sultan Ahmet Restaurant ¨¨
and stuffed sea bass. Excellent International Turkish/ International
wine menu. Adnan Menderes Bulvarı, Mersin 33200 Çarşı Cad, Belceğiz
Tel (0324) 330 00 60 Tel (0546) 267 50 30
KAŞ: Bi Lokma ¨ This lively venue hosts meetings An extensive menu which
Turkish of Mersin’s Gourmet Club. includes pizzas, kebabs,
Hükümet Cad 20, 07580 Delicious mezes can make a fresh seafood and traditional
Tel (0242) 836 39 42 whole meal – stuffed dried Turkish dishes such as lavaş
Bi Lokma means “one bite” in aubergine (eggplant) and salads (puffy bread).
Turkish. It is a small family-owned served with pomegranate
restaurant serving tasty food and molasses are regional specialties. SAKLIKENT: Paradise Park ¨
refreshing lemonade. Turkish/Italian
MERSIN: Big Chef’s ¨¨ Fethiye Muğla, 48300
KAŞ: Hayta Meyhane ¨ International Tel (0252) 659 02 03
Meyhane Adnan Menderes Bulv, Mersin Tasty omelettes, salads, pastas
Zumrut Sok 5, Merkez, 07580 Marinası, 33140 and pizzas line the varied
Tel (0242) 836 37 76 Tel (0324) 330 02 30 menu at Paradise Park. This
Low-key meyhane in which A local chain that has become restaurant proves to be a great
the starters and raki (aniseed- incredibly popular with its trendy base for hikers and rafters.
flavoured apéritif ) are as decor, a varied menu and good
important as the grilled mains. service. Fabulous choice of SIDE:
Lovely old Greek house setting. home-made breads, as well Ocakbaşı Restaurant ¨¨
as olive oil and wines. Kebab
KAŞ: Mercan Restaurant ¨¨ Zambak Sok 8, 07600
Seafood MERSIN: Tel (0242) 753 18 10
Balıkçı Barınağı Marina, 07580 İskele Marin Restaurant ¨¨ For finely prepared kebabs
Tel (0242) 836 12 09 Seafood grilled over charcoal right in
An exceptionally clean restaurant Adnan Menderes Bulv, Mersin front of you, this is the place.
with great sea views. Offers an Marinası, 33160 It is right in the heart of the
array of fresh fish and other Tel (0324) 330 00 55 Old Town and is good value
seafood dishes. The portions are An elegant seafront restaurant. compared to Side’s frequently
huge, so bring an appetite. White grouper is a popular overpriced restaurants.

TARSUS: Şelale Restaurant ¨ and aubergine (eggplant) purée BEYŞEHIR: Beyatik Restaurant ¨
Southeast Anatolian with yogurt served with Turkish
Şelale Mevki, 33640 seasoned ground meat. Hacı Armağan Mah, Orman İşletmesi
Tel (0324) 624 80 10 Karşısı, Vuslat Park yanı, 42700
Just a short drive from the city ANKARA: Tavacı Recep Usta ¨ Tel (0332) 512 91 77
centre, this eatery enjoys lovely Southeast Anatolian This spacious restaurant has
views of Tarsus waterfall. Serves Dikmen Vadisi Hoşdere Girişi 5, Kapı a large garden. Choose from
rich local delicacies such as künefe Çankaya, 06540 traditional dishes such as fried
(a shredded wheat dessert with Tel (0312) 442 29 45 carp, crayfish and other lake
unsalted cheese) and hummus. Welcoming eatery offering products. Good selection of
such fare as stuffed lamb ribs desserts as well. Popular venue
served in a bed of pilaf cooked for local events.
with onions – a rare dish to find.
Ankara and The stuffed turkey is also BEYŞEHIR: Yusuf Ustanın Yeri ¨
Western Anatolia particularly well prepared. Turkish
Hacı Armağan Mah, Köprübaşı
AFYON: İkbal Lokantası ¨¨ ANKARA: Uludağ Kebapçısı ¨ Cad 53, 42700
Turkish Kebab Tel (0332) 512 54 47
Uzun Çarşı 21, 3200 Altındağ, Denizciler Cad 54, 06240 Simple, no-frills restaurant
Tel (0272) 215 12 05 Tel (0312) 309 04 00 offering a choice of stews and
This venerable place is a local Excellent döner kebabs in the home-made dishes. This place
institution famed for its grills, historic centre of Ankara. remains one of the most
home-produced spiced sausage Mushroom pilaf rice, slow roasted prominent dining establishments
and desserts topped with the lamb shanks and Turkish coffee in town. No alcohol is served.
local buffalo-milk clotted cream. slowly cooked in a bed of hot
sand are specialties. EĞIRDIR:
AFYON: Meşhur Aşçı Derya Restaurant ¨
Bacaksız ¨¨ ANKARA: Çiçek Lokantası ¨¨ Turkish
Kebab Turkish Cami Mah 1, Sok 1, 32500
Karaman Mah, Yeni Saraçlar Çarşısı 6 2176 Sok, Söğütözü, 06510 Tel (0246) 311 40 47
Tel (0272) 215 20 97 Tel (0312) 284 08 88 A spacious restaurant on the
Late 19th-century restaurant that Fresh meat and vegetable dishes north shore of the peninsula,
specializes in kebabs and lamb cooked in a traditional Ankara with amazing mountain and lake
roasted to tender perfection in a wok-like pan. Both indoor and views. Don’t miss the lake fish
traditional tandoor oven. outdoor dining available. stews. Friendly, attentive service.
ANKARA: Beykoz Restaurant ¨ ANKARA: Gar Lokantası ¨¨ EĞIRDIR:

Turkish Turkish Pehlivan Restaurant ¨
Hoşdere Cad 193/A, Y Ayrancı, 06550 Filistin Sok 35, Gaziosmanpaşa, 06700 Turkish
Tel (0312) 442 68 68 Tel (0312) 447 29 96 Yeşil Ada Mah Kilise Arkası 18
The ideal restaurant for wholesome Lively restaurant in a trendy and Tel (0246) 311 58 81
Turkish food. Savour tripe soup, upmarket neighbourhood. Try the Set on a quiet northeast corner
cooked in broth with garlic lamb roast, rolled cabbage leaves of the island, this simple place
and dressed with vinegar and or monkfish. Popular with locals. serves up delicious gözleme
lemon. The menu is seasonal (stuffed wraps) for lunch, and fish
but includes a wide variety of ANKARA: Kınacızade Konağı ¨¨ and meat grills in the evening.
vegetables, stews and kebabs. Turkish Generous portions. No alcohol.
Kale Mah Kalekapısı Sok 28, 06240
Tel (0312) 324 57 14 ESKIŞEHIR:
DK Choice Tasty cuisine in a beautifully Mezze Restaurant ¨
ANKARA: restored Ottoman period house. Seafood
Boğaziçi Lokantası ¨ A great spot for breakfast, lunch Kızılcıklı Mahmut Pehlivan Cad,
Lokanta or dinner. Nazım Hikmet Sok 2, 26060
Ulus, Denizciler Cad 1/A, 06240 Tel (0222) 230 30 09
Tel (0312) 311 88 32 A wide array of mezes to choose
Since the 1950s, this has been from and full fish dinners; the
the prime choice for Turkish grilled fish is a must. Octopus
cuisine in Ankara. The restaurant and prawns are other house
has a long menu, and each dish specialities. Service is good, but
is as good as the other. Try the it can get crowded, so reserve
lamb shanks with aubergine in advance.
(eggplant), lamb chops or go
for Ankara tava with rice. ESKIŞEHIR: 222 Park Club
and Restaurants ¨¨
International
ANKARA: Çiftlik Merkez Hoşnudiye Mah, İsmet İnönü-1,
Lokantası ¨ Cad 103, 26130
Lokanta Tel (0222) 320 11 11
Emniyet Mah, AOÇ, 06560 Trendy complex of clubs and
Tel (0312) 211 02 20 eateries, including an excellent
A locals’ and expats’ secret. Some grill restaurant, an American
of the tasty specials include The exterior of the Ottoman house where restaurant and a wine house.
chicken stuffed with spicy rice, Kınacızade Konağı is located, Ankara Attracts a younger crowd.
ESKIŞEHIR: Ada Cafe ¨¨

International
Kentpark, 26000
Tel (0222) 217 72 73
An elegant restaurant located
on an island on the Porsuk
river. Great food – from hearty
breakfasts to wholesome
dinners. There is a choice of
crêpes, juicy steaks, schnitzel,
kebabs and mezes.
ESKIŞEHIR:
Sempre Restaurant ¨¨
Italian
Gaffar Okkan Cad, Pehlivanlar
Sok 11, 26120 A chef serving tasty Turkish food at Çiçek Lokantası, Ankara (see p356)
Tel (0222) 221 04 31
A popular Italian restaurant ISPARTA: Özsüt ¨ laced with oregano or plain
attracting mainly university Turkish cheese. Also try the refreshing
students and professors. It has İstasyon Cad 23, Çağlar Ap, 32100 beet juice.
a garden and, frequently, live Mimar Sinan Cad 38, 32100
music on weekends during the Tel (0246) 223 16 83 KONYA: Köşk Restaurant ¨
spring and summer months. Part of a nationwide chain that Central Anatolian/Turkish
originally served only desserts, Akçeşme Mah, Topraklık
GÖLBAŞI: this restaurant now offers a wide Cad 66, 42100
Beykoz Gölbaşı ¨ choice of soups, salads and grills Tel (0332) 352 85 47
Kebab in addition to delicious French- Set in an historic 19th-century
Haymana yolu 105, Karşıyaka Mah, and Russian-style cakes. house, this restaurant has lots
06830 of local delicacies, including
Tel (0312) 484 44 46 ISPARTA: okra stew, which is a regional
This eatery acts as a tranquil Etopia Restaurant ¨¨ favourite. The honey and vinegar
escape destination for locals. Turkish sherbet is delicious.
The house speciality is kuzu İstanbul Cad, Toptancılar Sitesi 3,
tandır – lamb slow-cooked Blok 3, 32200 KONYA: Gül Bahçe ¨¨
inside an earthenware pit in Tel (0246) 228 52 28 Central Anatolian
the ground. A meat lover’s paradise. Mevlana Külliyesi yanı,
Specialities include meatballs with Karatay, 42010
GÖLBAŞI: raisins, marinated T-bone steak and Tel (0332) 353 07 68
Şövalye Restaurant ¨ roast beef with puréed vegetables. Located next to the Mevlâna
International Museum, this restaurant serves
Karşıyaka Mah, Sahil Cad 392, Sok 3 KONYA: excellent local Konya dishes.
Tel (0312) 484 27 64 Cemo Etli Ekmek ¨ The grills, kebabs and oven-
Locals flock to this popular Central Anatolian baked lamb are all tender
eatery in a peaceful riverside Turkuaz İş Merkezi Selçuklu, 42060 and tasty. There are great
location. The recipes here have Tel (0332) 249 66 66 views over the beautiful and
a French touch. There’s an Sample a Konya trademark, the peaceful Mevlana.
excellent selection of wines. etli ekmek – hand-chopped
pieces of lamb or beef on a thin KÜTAHYA: Antepli Seyfi ¨
GÖLBAŞI: Chez Le Belge ¨¨¨ pide bread with tomatoes and Southeast Anatolian
Belgian onions. The restaurant also serves Cumhuriyet Cad 23, 43000
Sahil Cad 24, 06830 the usual grilled meat options. Tel (0274) 216 43 26
Tel (0312) 484 14 78 Gorge on aubergine and
Situated by Mogan Lake, this KONYA: Hacı Şükrü ¨ pistachio kebabs, künefe
fine establishment has been in Central Anatolian (a shredded wheat dessert
business since the 1980s. Devricedid Mah, Cem Sultan Cad with cheese), and baklava
Crayfish dishes are its signature 327/A, 42000 (sweet pastry), along with
offering. Good wine selection. Tel (0332) 352 76 23 yogurt drinks and şalgam
Visit Hacı Şükrü to try the tandır suyu (beet juice).
ISPARTA: Doğu Karadeniz kebabı – the city’s famous lamb
Pide & Kebab ¨ tandoori cooked in an earthen pit KÜTAHYA: Güral Sofrası ¨
Turkish/Regional for several hours. Traditionally the Turkish
Ziraat Bankası yanı, Valilik Karşısı 1, dish is eaten directly by hand, but Perli Mah, Eskişehir Kütahya
32100 the restaurant does provide cutlery yolu, 43000
Tel (0246) 212 15 19 on request. Tel (0274) 225 06 06
This establishment specializes A wide selection of scrumptious
in Black-Sea-style pides KONYA: Havzan Etli Ekmek ¨ Turkish dishes is available
(Turkish pizza) and grills, all Central Anatolian at this friendly restaurant
enriched with butter. The Musalla Bağları Telgrafçı, Hamdibey owned and operated by the
best is kavurmalı pide, for which Cad 8/A, 42060 people behind the leading
kavurma (dried mutton) is Tel (0332) 236 14 14 porcelain brand of Turkey.
stewed in its own juice for Sample an interesting version You can buy porcelain from
12–14 hours. of etli ekmek (Turkish-style pizza) the nearby shop.

KÜTAHYA: ÇAYELI: Hüsrev Lokantası ¨

Ispartalılar Konağı ¨ The Black Sea
Turkish Çayeli çıkışı, Hopa istikameti,
Pirler Mah, Germiyan Cad 58, 43000 Karayolu Üzeri, 53200
Tel (0274) 216 19 75 Tel (0464) 532 70 37
Housed in a restored period The restaurant advertises itself
dwelling, this atmospheric place as the “master of beans”. Serves
serves up standard Turkish fare a rich selection of Black Sea
such as tutmaç (green lentil cuisine. Ask for the cannellini
soup) and cimcik (local farfalle bean soup prepared with diced
served with a yogurt dressing). beef, which this establishment
is renowned for.
KÜTAHYA: Konağ ¨
Turkish HOPA:
Kurşunlu Sok 13 Terzioğlu Restaurant ¨
Tel (0274) 223 88 44 The Black Sea
Delightfully located in a Sundura Mah, Rize Cad 27, 08600
converted Ottoman Turkish Tel (0466) 351 51 11
house, this great place features Located in the Terzioğ lu Hotel
traditional favourites, including close to the shore, this place is
heart-warming stews and The informal, simple interior of Koru one of the few restaurants in
desserts such as figs stewed in Restaurant, Artvin Hopa. Come here to try the
milk. No alcohol. famous anchovy rice pilaf and
ARTVIN: sweet laz böreği (pastry with
POLATLI: Kanca Lokantası ¨ Bizim Döner ve Köfte Salonu ¨ peppers). Great service.
Lokanta Kebab
Cumhuriyet Mah, Bozkurt Cad, Ünal İnönü Cad 77/C, 08000 KASTAMONU:
Ap 57, 06900 Tel (0466) 212 15 51 Münire Sultan Sofrası ¨
Tel (0312) 621 38 96 Super kebabs and lamb Regional
Relish wholesome Turkish home specialities. Sometimes they Hepkebirler Mah, Fevzi Efendi Cad,
food. One of Turkey’s most popular also serve baklava (sweet pastry) Münire Medresesi girişi, 37100
dishes, lima bean soup, is cooked or kadayif (a shredded wheat Tel (0366) 214 96 66
beautifully here. This delicious dessert). Lunch usually runs out Housed inside a madrassa built
soup, with tomato paste and veal, by mid-afternoon, so come early. in 1746, this restaurant serves
is served with pilaf rice. delectable local fare. Order the
ARTVIN: Koru Restaurant ¨ tirit (bread rolls dipped in
POLATLI: Kebap 49 ¨ Northeast Anatolian grape molasses) or savour the
Kebab Koru Hotel Yeni Mah 19, Mayıs Cad, tasty broth with ground beef,
Cumhuriyet Mah, Sümer Cad 48 08000 garlic, yogurt and butter.
Tel (0312) 623 69 70 Tel (0466) 212 65 65
A good choice for those going Sizzling grills and local
on a daily excursion to the delicacies are on the menu at DK Choice
ancient city of Gordion. Expect Koru, such as kuymak (local MAÇKA:
standard Turkish fare such as fondue with cheese, butter and Coşandere Tesisleri
T ¨
kebabs and pides. Delicious food cornflour) and silor (a crispy The Black Sea
at reasonable prices. meze made with filo, yogurt Sümela Yolu Üzeri 5km,
and butter). Coşandere Köyü, 61750
T (0462) 531 11 90
Tel
ÇAMLIHEMŞIN: A rustic restaurant on the way
The Black Sea Osmanlı Restaurant ¨ to Sumela Monastery by the
The Black Sea Coşandere River. Don’t let the
AMASRA: Canlı Balık ¨ Ayder Yolu üzeri, Tarihi Köprü yanı simple interior of the venue
Seafood Hoşdere Köyü Ardeşen, 53400 dissuade you from dining here.
Küçük Liman Cad 8, 74300 Tel (0464) 752 42 23 The menu features delicious
Tel (0378) 315 26 06 En route to the Ayder plateau, trout, rice pudding, kuymak
Fresh flowers decorate tables at this is mostly a seasonal (local fondue with cheese,
this elegant, waterfront restaurant. restaurant serving hikers in butter and cornflour) and
The salad made with 29 different summer. A delicious range stuffed collard greens. There is
herbs and vegetables is a popular of Black Sea dishes, not a good selection of desserts on
draw. Interesting selection of forgetting wonderfully cooked offer. They also organize local
desserts too – try the yogurt with farm-raised trout. tours to the monastery and
honey and hazelnuts nearby uplands.
ÇAMLIHEMŞIN:
AMASRA: Sahil Balık ¨¨ Yeşil Vadi Restaurant ¨
Seafood The Black Sea RIZE: Evvel Zaman Yöresel
Küçük Liman Cad15, 74300 Merkez Mah, 53750 Yemek Lokantası ¨
Tel (0378) 315 34 65 Tel (0464) 651 72 82 The Black Sea
The menu in the café area features A spectacular location over the Piri Çelebi Mah, Şeyh Cami Arkası
omelettes, sandwiches and Fırtına River at the end of the Eski Rize Evi, 53100
simple mezes, while the main valley. Sample traditional corn- Tel (0464) 212 21 88
restaurant offers a haven for bread, muhlama (local fondue) A lovely restaurant set in a
seafood lovers with its extensive and collard greens – the basis historic house at the centre
variety of dishes. of their menu. of town, offering traditional
Black Sea cuisine, which YUSUFELI:

includes laz böreği (pastry Yusufeli Saray Lokantası ¨
with peppers). Lokanta
Halitpaşa Cad 11, 08800
SAFRANBOLU: Tel (0466) 811 28 16
Kadıoğlu Şehzade Sofrası ¨ The restaurant is close to the
Turkish Çoruh River, the mecca of river-
Arasta Sok 8, 78600 rafters. Tasty, nourishing fare such
Tel (0370) 712 56 57 as lentil soup, cannellini beans,
Excellent pides and soups are rice pilaf and shepherd’s salad.
served in a traditional home.
The town name comes from the
rare plant of the region, saffron –
used in the preparation of the Cappadocia and
exquisite zerde (rice pudding). Central Anatolia
SAFRANBOLU: AMASYA:
Havuzlu Köşk ¨¨ Ali Kaya Restaurant ¨
Turkish Kebab
Dibekönü Cad 32, Bağlar, 78600 Çakallar Mevkii, Amasya
Tel (0370) 725 21 68 Diners feasting on superb seafood in the Merkez, 05100
With tables placed around a restaurant at Sahil Balık, Amasra Tel (0358) 218 13 16
small pool in the atrium, this Relish a mixed kebab platter
intimate eatery has consistent TRABZON: while enjoying views of the
service and focuses on traditional Süleyman Restaurant ¨¨ river valley, mountains and the
meat dishes. Seafood/Kebab rock-cut tombs of the Pontic
Devlet Sahil Yolu Cad, kings. Lamb and aubergine
SAFRANBOLU: Forum AVM, 61100 kebab is the signature dish.
Taş Ev Sanat ve Şarap Evi ¨¨ Tel (0462) 330 03 64
International An upscale restaurant with a wide AMASYA:
Baba Sultan Mah, Hidirlik range of mezes and wines. There is Amasya Şehir Restaurant ¨¨
Yokusu 14, 78600 occasional live music at the bar. Kebab
Tel (0370) 725 53 00 Hatuniye Mah, H Teyfik Hafız
Popular wine bar and restaurant UZUNGÖL: Sok 1, 05100
set in a historic stone house. İnan Kardeşler Restaurant ¨ Tel (0358) 218 10 13
It offers steaks, salads, pastas, Regional Do not miss the baklalı dolma
and cheeses from Kars. In Uzungöl village, 61960 (rolled grape leaves stuffed
Tel (0462) 656 62 97 with fava beans and wheat)
SAMSUN: Rustic restaurant part of the here. Positioned on the banks
Venn Café & Bistro ¨¨ İnan Kardeşler Hotel. Try the rare of the Yeşilırmak.
International benekli alabalık (fried brown trout
Cumhuriyet Mah, Adnan Menderes cooked with tomato and peppers). BOĞAZKALE:
Bulv 325, 55200 Aşıkoğlu Restaurant ¨
Tel (0362) 407 00 01 YUSUFELI: Turkish
Housed in the Venn boutique Hacıoğlu Cağ Döner Salonu ¨ Before the entrance of Hattuşaş city
hotel, this place has a wide Kebab gate, 19310
choice of international dishes. İnönü Cad, 08800 Tel (0364) 452 20 04
The service is attentive and the Tel (0466) 811 36 31 Located near the capital
views are good. Look out for The çağ kebab – a döner kebab city of the ancient Hittites,
the weekly specials. skewered over a charcoal fire – this is a spacious refectory-
is the only option here. Shepherd’s style cafeteria with self
TRABZON: salad or aubergine salad are service. Phone ahead if
Ustad Lokantasi ¨ good accompaniments to you want to try the
Lokanta this dish. delicious grilled quail.
Atatürk Alanı 18
Tel (0462) 321 54 06
Small lokanta overlooking
Trabzon’s noisy but atmospheric
central square. It dishes up
traditional staples, including
white bean stews, lentil soup,
meatballs and kebabs.
TRABZON: Bey Konağı ¨¨

The Black Sea
Sahil Yolu Üzeri Bölge Trafiğe 300m
Akyazı Beldes, 61195
Tel (0462) 273 25 14
Great place to sample Black Sea
cuisine and seafood. Choose
from a variety of anchovy dishes
and vegetable specials made
with collard greens. The dining area at Coşandere Tesisleri, Maçka

BELISIRMA: Belisırma ¨ KAYSERI: Kaşıkla ¨ UÇHİSAR: Café Centrum ¨

Turkish Turkish International
Ihlara Vadisi, Belisırma Köyü, 68570 Şeker Mah, Osman Kavuncu Bulv Belediye Meydanı, 50200
Tel (0382) 457 30 57 370, Kocasinan, 38070 Tel (0384) 219 31 17
A no-frills restaurant with simple Tel (0352) 326 30 75 Though it looks more like a
but tasty food. The menu has a Feast on delicious mantı – the teahouse, the food at Café
choice of soups, grills (including Turkish version of minced Centrum is surprisingly good.
trout) and salads. meat-filled ravioli, smothered in Try the vegetable and seafood
a rich, creamy yogurt and garlic pasta cooked in a traditional
GÖREME: Dibek ¨ sauce spiced up with sumac. earthenware pot.
Central Anatolian/Turkish There are also grills and stews
Meydan Nevşehir, 50180 as alternatives. UÇHİSAR: Elai Cappadocia ¨¨
Tel (0384) 271 22 09 International
This cave-set restaurant is KAYSERI: Beştepe Restaurant ¨¨ Tekelli Mah, Eski Göreme Cad,
the place to try testi kebab, a Turkish 50240
tasty meat and vegetable dish Karacaoğlu Mah, Beştepeler Parkı, Tel (0384) 219 31 81
stewed in its own juices in 38500 Melikgazi A chic restaurant in sophisticated
a clay pot. Tel (0352) 347 18 18 Uçhisar. The indoor section
This is a revolving restaurant with is a cave and the terrace offers
GÖREME: good views of the city and superb views of the valley.
A’la Turca Restaurant ¨¨ Mount Erciyes. The menu The dishes are artfully prepared.
Central Anatolian/Turkish/ features local dishes with a focus Smart dress preferred for dinner.
International on seafood. No alcohol.
Gaferli Mah, Cevizler Sok 6, ÜRGÜP: Dimrit Café
50180 KIRŞEHİR: & Restaurant ¨¨
Tel (0384) 271 28 82 Ahi Teras Restaurant ¨ Turkish
Highlights include delicious local Turkish Yunak Mah, Teyfik Fikret Cad 40,
zülbiye (chunks of lamb, pearl Terme Cad 8, 40000 50400
onions, tomato and garlic) and Tel (0386) 214 14 24 Tel (0384) 341 85 85
calla (veal, aubergine, tomato, Perfect combination of a bakery Most main courses at Dimrit
pepper and garlic). and restaurant. The café section have a meat base but they also
of Ahi Teras offers simit (seeded carry some seafood mezes and a
GÖREME: Cappadocian bread ring) or poğaça (Balkan fish-of-the-day option. Lemon
Cuisine ¨¨ leavened bread). kebab and testi kebab (meat
Central Anatolian and vegetables cooked in a clay
Yani Uzundere Caddesi, pot) are their specialities.
Göreme, 50180 DK Choice
Tel (0384) 271 27 01 MUSTAFAPAŞA:
MUSTAFAPAŞA
T : ÜRGÜP: Han Çırağan
Home cooking at its best makes Old Greek House ¨¨ Restaurant ¨¨
this the place to try local dishes Turkish Turkish/French
at reasonable prices. You can Mustafapaşa Kasabası, 50420 Cumhuriyet Meydanı 4, 50400
watch the chef rustle up the Tel (0384) 353 53 06 Tel (0384) 341 25 66
dishes in her own kitchen. A beautiful 19th-century Owned and run by Francophiles
Greek house with many settled in Cappadocia. Casual
GÜZELYURT: preserved features. Original bar downstairs and a fine
Karballa Restaurant ¨ frescoes adorn the arches in dining terrace space upstairs.
Turkish the main courtyard shaded by Good cocktails.
Karballa Hotel, Çarşı içi, Aksaray, grape vines. Enjoy authentic
68100 dishes cooked by local chefs. ÜRGÜP:
Tel (0382) 451 21 03 Seating is either at tables in Şömine Restaurant ¨¨
The only real restaurant in the courtyard, or on cushions Turkish
Güzelyurt, Karballa is located in around low tables indoors. Cumhuriyet Meydanı 9, 50400
a former monastery with an A very popular place with Tel (0384) 341 84 42
impressive barrel-vaulted the locals. This is one of the most popular
ceiling. Book ahead. restaurants in Cappadocia.
The menu features kebabs
and other Turkish classics.
Eastern Anatolia
DİYARBAKIR:
Kaburgacı Selim Amca ¨¨
Southeast Anatolian
Ali Emiri Cad 22/B Merkez
Tel (0412) 224 44 47
The original of a small chain
with others in Mardin, Istanbul
and Ankara, this place offers
superb lamb ribs stuffed with
piquant rice pilaf. No alcohol
Low tables and cushions in one of the dining areas at the Old Greek House, Mustafapaşa is served.
DK Choice
MARDIN:
Cerciş Murat Konağı ¨¨
Southeast Anatolian
Merkez 1, Cad 517, 47100
Tel (0482) 213 68 41
Housed in a beautifully
restored mansion house,
this is one of the best
restaurants in Eastern
Turkey. A trendsetter in
excellent and unusual fare,
excellent
this place offers distinctive
dishes that will delight the
taste buds. Go for the set
menu. Also on offer are
unique Syrian Orthodox
The elegant interior at Cerciş Murat Konağı, Mardin wines made from endemic
Öküzgözü & Boğazakere
ERZURUM: KAHRAMANMARAŞ: grapes. Stunning views of
Güzelyurt Restaurant ¨ Yaşar Pastanesi ¨ the Mesopotamian Plain.
Turkish Ice cream
Cumhuriyet Cad 42, 25100 İsmet Paşa Mah, Trabzon Bulv, 27100
Tel (0442) 234 50 01 Tel (0344) 225 08 08 ŞANLIURFA:
This modern restaurant is popular The original shop of the national Cevahir Konukevi Restaurant ¨
with local businessmen. The menu chain Mado that popularized Southeast Anatolian
features excellent mezes, kebabs beaten ice cream made from goat’s Büyükyol Cad, Selahaddin Eyyubi
and seafood. Good service. milk and roots of wild orchid. Cami Karşısı, 63000
Tel (0414) 215 93 77
GAZİANTEP: Imam Çağdaş ¨ KARS: Hanımeli Lokantası ¨ Set in a historic building,
Southeast Anatolian Regional Cevahir rustles up fiery
Kale Cıvarı Uzun Çarşısı 49, 27100 Orta Kapı Mah, Ordu Cad 65, 36100 Urfa dishes using Turkish hot
Tel (0342) 231 26 78 Tel (0474) 212 61 31 pepper “Isot“. Also organizes
A long-established place that Tasty vegetarian fare such traditional folk evenings, which
serves the city’s best lahmacun as mantı (Turkish ravioli) with are a lot of fun.
(a thin, unleavened bread caramelized onions and bulgur
topped by spicy meat) and (wheat) pilaf with herbs. ŞANLIURFA: Gülhan ¨
baklava (sweet pastry), as well Lokanta
as tender kebabs. KARS: Kars Kaz Evi ¨ Atatürk Bulvarı, Urfa Merkez,
Northeast Anatolian 63200
GAZİANTEP: Tahmis Kahvesi ¨ Orta Kapı Mah, Şehit Polis Nuri Yıldız Tel (0414) 313 33 18
Café Sok 17, 36100 This no-nonsense businessmen’s
Arasa Meydanı Elmacı Pazarı Tel (0474) 212 37 13 establishment knocks out quality
Şahinbey, 27000 Come here for yogurt soup, goose food at bargain prices – every-
Tel (0342) 232 89 77 roast and hot pickled vegetables. thing from hearty stews to soups
Beautifully restored 17th-century Book ahead. and kebabs.
café serving traditional Turkish
coffee. Try menengiç coffee, made MALATYA: Kaburga Sofrası ¨ VAN: Firavin ¨
with roasted pistachios and milk. Kebab Kurdish
Cevatpaşa Mah, Karakavak, 44100 Hastane Cad, Urartu Oteli
GAZİANTEP: Tel (0422) 238 11 35 Karşısı
İncilipınar Antep Sofrası ¨¨ A no-frills, city-centre eatery Tel (0432) 216 66 86
Regional specializing in stuffed ribs, kebabs Completely run and managed
100 Yıl Kültür Parkı İçi, Ulu Cami and meat dishes. by women, this place specializes
yanı, 27100 in traditional, home-cooked
Tel (0342) 234 26 57 food with a small range of
Lovely place serving sour local Kurdish dishes and a
wheat balls in broth, fındık greater range of standard
lahmacun (small, thin pizzas) Turkish dishes.
and pistachio-filled baklava
(sweet pastry). VAN: Sütçü Kenan ¨
Breakfast
KAHRAMANMARAŞ: Cumhuriyet Cad, Kahvaltıcılar Sok
Küçük Ev Et Lokantası ¨ 7/A, 65100
Turkish Tel (0432) 216 84 99
İsmet Paşa Mah, Borsa Cad 11, Enjoy an elaborate breakfast
46000 buffet here. Also on offer is
Tel (0344) 223 25 55 the famous Van honey as
Relish traditional stews well as a selection of local
with vegetables as well as cheeses, including some with
kebabs. Simple setting and The famous menengiç coffee at Tahmis herbs and some that have
good service. Kahvesi, Gaziantep been smoked.

SHOPPING IN TURKEY
Even if you are not a shopper by nature, the high-pressure sales pitches wherever
varied and unusual selection of gifts found you travel. The weekly market is a unique
in Turkey’s markets will easily tempt you. aspect of regional shopping. These markets
The grand shops and teeming streets of are a holdover from the days of trading
Istanbul are a world away from the ateliers caravans, when shops as we know them
and craft shops of smaller towns in rural did not exist. Traders still pay taxes to have
areas. Outside Istanbul, you will also a market stall, as they did 400 years ago.
find bargaining (see p134) a less cut-throat And the zabıta (municipal market police)
pursuit. However, you are sure to encounter still control weights, measures and prices.
Credit cards are widely In rural markets, you will be

accepted for purchases expected to pay in cash. Some
(except in markets and merchants will happily accept
smaller shops), and most foreign currency.
vendors do not charge Merchants in bazaars and
a commission. Visa, markets expect customers to
MasterCard and bargain. If you see something
American Express are you want to buy, offer half
the most common, the asking price. Increase the
Diners Club less so. offer slightly if the merchant
Vendors who accept resists. He will then indicate
credit cards may try to whether he thinks that the
tell you that they will bargaining should continue.
not be reimbursed for
Upmarket clothing boutique in Bodrum the transaction for
several days, and ask you VAT Exemption
Opening Hours to pay a small compensatory If you spend at least ¨118
In large cities, shops are usually commission. Resist this, and in one shop, you can claim
open from 9am to 7pm or 8pm. insist on paying without a back the 18 per cent VAT (KDV
But hours can be much extended commission. It is common for in Turkey). VAT exemption is
in tourist and coastal areas, where a vendor to ask you to go to now widely available – look
many shops will stay open until the bank with him to draw for the Tax Free Shopping
midnight, seven days a week, the money out on your credit logo displayed in the shop.
particularly during the summer card. There is nothing wrong The retailer gives you a Global
months, when the daytime heat with this, but you will pay Refund Cheque, which you
discourages all but the most interest on your card for a cash should present to customs
dedicated shoppers. Shopping advance. Note that very few officials with your invoices and
malls are ubiquitous in most shops in Turkey now accept purchases for a cash refund
Turkish cities, and are usually travellers’ cheques. when leaving Turkey.
open from 10am to 10pm.
In general, opening hours
are much more flexible in rural
areas. If you find a shop closed,
you can ask where the owner is
and it will not take long before
someone tells him/her that there
is a potential customer. Note that
some shops may close during
Muslim religious holidays.
How to Pay
Most shops that cater to
tourists will be happy to accept
foreign currency. If you can
pay in cash, you can usually
get a discount on most goods.
Exchange rates are often
displayed in shops, and also
appear in daily newspapers. Fresh herbs and spices, sold by weight at Kadıköy Market in Istanbul
SHOPPING IN TURKEY 363
is regarded as smuggling,
and is a punishable offence.
Van cats and Kangal
dogs are now also included
in this category.
How to Send
Purchases Home
If you have bought items from
a reputable and trustworthy
supplier, he or she will have
Locally produced copper and brassware in the old quarter of Safranbolu an arrangement with an
international courier company
Buying Antiques should register with a museum who can ship goods to your
Before purchasing antique items, all goods that are over 100 years home address. Try to get your
it is important to know what old. In practice, sellers usually own copy of any shipping
can and cannot be taken out of only seek permission after a documents and an air waybill
Turkey. The rule is that objects particular item has been sold. number. Do not use the post
which are over 100 years old In the past, antiques could office (PTT) to send such items.
may be exported only with be removed from Turkey Be aware that there are also
a certificate stating their age without a certificate. some disreputable dealers,
and granting permission Although this has changed, especially in carpets, who will
to remove them from the the export of antiques is either substitute an inferior
country. Museums issue not forbidden, as some item in place of the one you
these certificates, as does believe. If the relevant have bought or who will fail
the Culture Ministry in authorities permit to send the goods. Beware of
Ankara, who will also your purchase to traders who advise you to
authenticate the correct be exported, you ignore official rules.
age and value of an Ornate ceramic vase can either take it
object, if necessary. The and saucer with you or send
shopkeeper from whom it home, whether Sizes and Measures
you bought your goods will or not it is over 100 years old. Turkey uses continental
often know which museum will Do take note, however, that European sizes for clothes and
be authorizing your purchases taking antiques out of Turkey shoes. Food and drink are sold
for export. In theory, a seller without proper permission in metric measures.
DIRECTORY
VAT Exemption Homer Kitapevi Istanbul Handicraft Linens
Yeni Çarşısı Cad 28, Beyoğlu, Center
Global Refund Istanbul. Tel (0212) 249 59 Kabasakal Cad 5, Özdilek
Tel (0212) 232 11 21. 02. ∑ homerbooks.com Sultanahmet, Istanbul. Yeni Yalova Yol, Bursa.
∑ globalblue.com Tel (0212) 517 67 48. Tel (0224) 219 60 00.
Yörük Collection ∑ istanbul handicraft ∑ ozdilek.com.tr
Antiques Yerebatan Cad 35, center.com Afyon
Sultanahmet, Istanbul. Kaş and Carry (on main highway
Motif Handicrafts
Tel (0212) 511 77 66. Liman Cad 10, Kaş. junction of Ankara and
Şirince Koyü, Selçuk, İzmir.
∑ yorukcollection.com Tel (0242) 836 16 62. Afyon road).
Tel (0232) 898 30 99.
Fax (0242) 836 23 89. Tel (0272) 252 54 00.
∑ motiftr.com Jewellery
Tribal Collections Spices and Herbs
Handicrafts Urart Müze Yolu 24/C, Göreme,
and Gifts Abdi Ipekçi Cad 18/1, Nevşehir. Ayfer Kaun
Nişantaşı, Istanbul. Tel (0384) 271 24 00. Mısır Çarşısı
Çeşni Turkish Tel (0212) 246 71 94. ∑ tribalcollections.net (Egyptian Bazaar) 7,
Handicrafts ∑ urart.com.tr Istanbul.
Tunalı Hilmi Cad, Ertuğ Hand-worked Tel (0212) 522 45 23.
Pasajı 88/44, Ankara. Carpets/Kilims Copperware
Tel (0312) 426 57 87. Ucuzcular Kimya
Gallery Shirvan L’Orient Sanayii
Gallery Anatolia Halıcilar Sok 50–54, İçbedesten, Şerif Ağa Sok Mısır Çarşısı
Hükümet Cad, Kaş. Kapalıçarşı (Grand Bazaar) 22–23, Kapalıçarşı (Grand (Egyptian Bazaar) 51,
Tel (0242) 836 19 54. Istanbul. Bazaar), Istanbul. Istanbul.
∑ gallery-anatolia.com Tel (0212) 522 49 86. Tel (0212) 520 70 46. Tel (0212) 520 64 92.
What to Buy in Turkey

When it comes to shopping, nothing can compare with
Istanbul’s bustling bazaars, markets, shops and stalls.
In contrast, the rural markets have an unhurried feel and
unique products that often don’t travel much beyond
provincial boundaries, such as stout walking sticks made
in Devrek (near Zonguldak), ceremonial pipes produced in
Sivas and the angora goat-hair bedspreads and rugs made
in Siirt. Markets are lively and colourful, and the best places
to find handmade items that are produced in small quantities.
Pipes
Classic, beautifully crafted
Copper goblets nargiles (water pipes) are
still widely used in special
Copperware cafés. They can make very
Antique copperware can be attractive ornaments, even
very expensive. Newer items, if you do not smoke.
however, are also available,
at more affordable prices.
Antique copper water ewer Box inlaid with

mother-of-pearl
Evil-eye
pendants
Box with painted scenes

on bone inlay
Inlaid Wood
Jewellery Jewellery boxes crafted from wood or bone,
Turkey produces stunning gold jewellery and then inlaid or painted, make unusual
in original designs. Silver is also popular, souvenirs. Backgammon players will be
and rings and necklaces are often set delighted at the delicate, inlaid rosewood
with precious stones. A simple blue glass backgammon (tavla) sets available in
eye (boncuk) is said to ward off evil. markets and shops around Turkey.
Ceramics
Ceramics are an
important artistic
tradition. The style varies
according to the area of
origin. İznik, Kütahya and
Çanakkale are famous for
ceramic production, but
Avanos is also known
for hand-painted pottery
and porcelain.
Green jugs from Çanakkale Blue and white decorated ceramic plate
Glassware
This elegant lamp is an
example of the blue and
white striped glassware
called çeşmibülbül,
which is made in the
famous Paşabahçe
works. The firm
makes many utilitarian
Leather Goods designs as well as an
Shoes, handbags, briefcases and other leather up-market range in
accessories are good buys, as are jackets. For high- fine lead crystal.
fashion, Istanbul is the place. Desa Deri is a good Paşabahçe
name all over Turkey. For accessories, look for glassware makes
the Matraş or Tergan brands. a wonderful gift.
Textiles
Hand-woven cloths, including ikat work (where the cotton is dyed as it is
woven), and fine embroidery are just some of the range of textiles that can
be bought. Turkey is also a leading producer of top-quality garments and
knitwear. Bathrobes and towels are of high quality. Look for the Altınyıldız
label for finest woollens and fabrics by the metre or yard. Çeşmibülbül lamp
Cotton ikat work Embroidered scarves Hand-printed yazma

known as oyalı (shawls) from Tokat
Local Delicacies
Delicious sweets such as halva,
Turkish delight and baklava are
always popular. Many fragrant
spices, as well as dried fruit and
nuts, are sold loose by weight
in most markets and tourist
shops throughout Turkey. Turkish
Halva Nuts in honey delight
Sunflower and
Mulberries pumpkin seeds Apricots
Dried red peppers

and aubergines Chickpeas Almonds Pistachios
Turkish Carpets and Kilims

The ancient skill of weaving rugs has been handed down A carpet may be machine-
from generation to generation in Turkey. Rugs were made or handmade. Fold
originally made for warmth and decoration in the home, the face of the rug back on
itself: if you can see the
as dowry items for brides, or as donations to mosques. base of the knots and the
There are two main kinds of rug: carpets (halı), which are pile cannot be pulled out, it
means that it is handmade.
knotted, and kilims, which are flat-woven
with vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft)
threads. Many foreign rugs are sold in
Turkey, but those of Turkish origin come
in a particularly wide range of attractive
colours. Most of the carpets and kilims
offered for sale will be new or almost
new; antique rugs are rarer and far
more expensive.
Wool is the
usual material
for making a
rug, although
some carpets
are made
from silk.
Weaving a Carpet
Wool for rugs is washed, carded, spun and dyed
before it is woven. Weaving is a cottage industry
in Turkey; rural women often weave in winter,
leaving the summer months for farming duties. Carpet
This reproduction of a
Rug-making Areas 16th-century Uşak carpet is
of Western Turkey known as a Bellini double
entrance prayer rug.
The weaving industry in Turkey
is concentrated into several
areas of production, listed below.
Rug designs are traditional to
their tribal origins, resulting in
Indigo
a wide range of designs and
enabling a skilled buyer to
identify the area of origin.
Madder
Carpets
1 Hereke
2 Çanakkale
3 Ayvacık Kilims Camomile
4 Bergama
q Denizli
5 Yuntdağ Dyes
6 Balıkesir w Uşak
Before chemical dyes were
7 Sındırgı introduced in 1863, plant
8 Milas extracts were used: madder
9 Antalya Carpets and Kilims roots for red; indigo for blue;
0 Isparta e Konya and camomile and other
plants for yellow.
The “prayer design” is inspired by a mihrab,

the niche in a mosque that indicates the
direction of Mecca (see pp36–7).
The tree of life motif at the

centre of the kilim is
symbolic of immortality.
Buying a Rug
Before you buy a rug, look at it by itself on
the floor, to see that it lies straight – without
waves or lumps. Check that the pattern is
balanced, the borders are of the same
dimensions, and the ends are roughly the
same width. The colours should be clear
and not bleeding into one another. Bargaining
is essential (see p134), as the first price given
is likely to be at least 30 per cent higher than the
seller really expects.
Buying a good-quality old rug at a
reasonable price, however, is a job for an
expert. The age of a rug is ascertained from
its colour, the quality of the weaving and
the design. Check the pile to make sure that
the surface has not been painted and look for
any repairs – they can easily be seen on the
back of the rug. The restoration of an old carpet
is acceptable but the repair should not be
too visible. Make sure the rug has a small lead
seal attached to it, proving that it may be
exported, and ask the shop for a receipt.
Kilim
Kilims are usually made using the slit-
Kilim pieces
weave technique by which a vertical are used
slit marks a colour change. to make a
The width of a rug is limited by the variety of
size of the loom. Most rugs are smaller craft
small because a large loom will objects, also for sale
not fit into a village house. in carpet shops.
Burdock motif Chest motif
Motifs
The recurring motifs in rugs – some of them
seemingly abstract, others more figurative – often
have a surprising origin. For instance, many are
derived from marks that nomads and villagers Motif from wolf track, Modern motif of a
used for branding animals. crab or scorpion human figure
ENTERTAINMENT IN TURKEY
Almost every town and village in Turkey a very long history in Turkey. In classical
enjoys an annual celebration – be it times, the many amphitheatres of Anatolia
grease wrestling, bull butting or simply hosted wrestling matches, circuses
an agricultural festival where farmers can and risqué theatricals, which were
show off their new tractors. Some of these entertainment as much as sport. Today,
events hark back to ancient seasonal rites, the average Turk identifies more with
such as the Giresun Aksu Festival on the football (soccer) than any other type of
Black Sea in May. Even though most of sport. Visitors will soon notice the coloured
these activities are aimed at locals, you banners and car horns blasting in support
are sure to be made welcome or even be of favoured Istanbul teams such as Beşiktaş,
a guest of honour. Spectator sports have Galatasaray and Fenerbahçe.
Entertainment Guides are the International Opera and

A number of magazines list Ballet Festival (see p39) held at
events and entertainment in Aspendos and the Istanbul
Istanbul and elsewhere in the Biennial, a multimedia arts
country. Visitors to Istanbul and festival that takes place on odd
Bodrum should look for years (2017 and 2019).
The Guide and Time Out There is also an exciting
Istanbul, while The Gate series of Istanbul events
magazine is available for that focus on theatre,
free at airports. Turkish classical music, film
Airlines also has its own and jazz. Among these
publication, Skylife. Jazz, is the Istanbul Theatre Halikarnas disco in Bodrum
the quarterly Istanbul Festival, held in May–
magazine, is a good June (see p136). authentic troupe who perform
Bodrum events
source of information Music festivals include during the Mevlâna Festival in
guide
on various local jazz the Akbank Jazz Festival, Konya in December (see p41).
clubs, events and musicians. held in April and May in Istanbul,
Ankara and other cities; the
touring Efes Pilsen Blues Festival, Spectator Sports
Art, Cinema, Theatre held in the autumn; and the Although football (futbol) is
and Music Festivals Istanbul International Music hugely popular, grease
Turkey has a large cinema-going Festival, held each June and July. wrestling, or yağlı güreş, is
public. Most foreign films (except Turkey’s most time-honoured
those for children) are shown in sport (see p158). The main
their original language with Discos, Night Clubs event is the four-day festival
Turkish subtitles. The Golden and Belly Dancing at Kırkpınar, near Edirne, in
Orange Film Festival is held You will find huge, open-air June. Wearing nothing but
annually in Antalya (see pp222–3). discos in most summer resorts – kıspet (black leather trousers
Other items on the arts calendar Bodrum’s Halikarnas (see p198) soaked with olive oil), up
is the best known, with pillars to 1,000 men compete
and torchlight reminiscent of according to weight groups.
ancient times. Camel wrestling (see p41)
Despite a somewhat seedy takes place every January and
reputation – especially in the February. The biggest camel
back alleys of Istanbul – belly wrestling festivals are in Selçuk
dancing (see p371) is outdoor and around İzmir.
family entertainment for Turks at The Camel Classic Motor
seaside resorts in summer, and Racing series, which is held
this is where you are likely to see in the summer months, starts
the most authentic displays. in Istanbul and follows a circuit
Special tourist floor shows at that includes most of the
hotels and holiday villages in western resort areas.
season frequently include folk The major events on the
dancing and traditional music. horse racing calendar include
Folkloric Whirling Dervish the Gazi Race, held at the Veli
Borusan Istanbul Philharmonic Orchestra performances are frequently Efendi Hippodrome in Istanbul
performing at the International Music Festival staged but these are not the at the end of June, and the
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T U R K E Y 369
Presidential Cup in Ankara at theme parks tucked away

the end of October. within the hotel complex,
The Mediterranean coastal but access to these is
town of Alanya (see p230) is usually reserved for
the venue for the Alanya resident guests only.
International Triathlon At Antalya Aqualand,
(swimming, cycling and foot there is a good aquapark,
races) in October. with slides, pools and a
dolphin park.
Theme Parks
Theme parks are growing in Traditional Turkish Folk dancers performing at Ephesus
popularity in Turkey. Minicity Music and Dance
Antalya (see p222) is a cross- Traditional Turkish music is as Ece, Kallavi and Hasır in
cultural attraction that enchants regularly performed at the Istanbul. Fasıl is performed
visitors young and old, as does Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall in on instruments which include
the original Istanbul version of Istanbul. In summer, recitals of the violin, kanun (zither),
a scale-model theme park, Turkish music are occasionally tambur and ud (both similar
Miniatürk, which is located on organized in the Basilica Cistern to the lute).
the banks of the Golden Horn. (see p90), which has wonderful
Some of the big holiday acoustics. Traditional Fasıl music
villages around Kemer or Alanya (see p371) is best enjoyed Children
even have their own mini live in meyhanes (taverns) such Children are welcome and
will be fussed over almost
everywhere. However, there
are relatively few attractions
that have been planned with
children in mind. Beaches
and theme parks are good
bets, and holiday villages
always have programmes
for children. In Istanbul,
there are large parks at Yıldız
(see p125) and Emirgan
(see p140). Also near Emirgan
is Park Orman, with picnic
areas, a pool, a giant walk-on
Miniature versions of Turkey’s sights at Minicity Antalya chessboard and a theatre.
DIRECTORY
Art, Cinema, Golden Orange Kırkpınar Grease- Miniatürk
Theatre and Film Festival Wrestling Imrahor Cad, Sütlüceö,
Music Festivals Kültür Parkı İçi, Antalya.
Edirne tourism office.
Istanbul.
Tel (0242) 238 54 44. Tel (0212) 222 28 22.
Ankara Tel (0284) 213 92 08.
∑ altinportakal.org.tr ∑ miniaturk.com.tr
International ∑ kirkpinar.org
Music Festival Istanbul International Minicity Antalya
Tel (0312) 427 23 53. Veli Efendi
Music Festival Arapsu Mahallesi,
∑ ankarafestival.com Tel (0212) 334 07 34.
Hippodrome Konyaaltı, Antalya.
∑ iksv.org Türkiye Jokey Tel (0242) 229 45 45.
Ankara Theatre
Festival Kulübü, Osmaniye, ∑ minicity.antalya
Istanbul Biennial
Tel (0312) 419 83 98. Bakırköy, Istanbul. net.de
∑ bienal.iksv.org
∑ ankaratiyatro Tel (0212) 543 70 96.
festivali.org Spectator Tel (0212) 444 08 55.
Aspendos Sports ∑ veliefendi.com
International
Opera & Ballet Alanya International Theme Parks
Festival Triathlon
Near Antalya. Alanya Municipality. Antalya Aqualand
∑ aspendosfestival. Tel (0242) 513 10 02. Several locations.
gov.tr ∑ triathlon.org ∑ aqualand.com.tr
Music and Dance

Turkish music and dance are deeply rooted in history
and tradition, having been influenced by Ottoman
classics, mystical Sufi chants and Central Asian folk tunes,
as well as jazz and pop. The result is a vibrant mosaic
of old and new culture, an eclectic mixture of styles.
The zurna (shawm) is a
In Turkey, visitors are treated to variety, from the
member of the oboe family.
meditational trance of Whirling dervishes and the Its characteristic, strident
merry twirling of folk dancers to the steady beat of sound features strongly
mehter bands, undulating rhythms of belly dancers and in Turkish folk music.
the stirring strains of zurna buskers. The country offers
a musical and dance extravaganza second to none.
Davul
Traditional Instruments
Turkish instruments can be classified into three
main groups. Stringed instruments include
the saz and ud, wind the kaval and ney,
and percussion the davul and darbuka.
11 strings
Protective
3 strings
leather
patch
Movable
fret
Saz
Ud Kaval Ney
Saz and ud are the main string The woodwind instruments

instruments. The saz is plucked. ney and kaval have ancient
A piece of leather protects origins. The ney is made
the belly of the ud from the from reed, while the kaval
strokes of the plectrum. is carved from the wood of
the plum tree.
Stretched Tupan stick

goatskin
Percussion
instruments
originated with
the Arabs. The
body of the darbuka
was traditionally
ceramic, while the A saz player entertains villagers in this
davul was metal. 1950s photograph. Although tastes
Darbuka Davul have changed, Turks remain proud
of their musical traditions.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T U R K E Y 371
Sufi music uses

the sounds of the
ney, ud and kanun
to interpret secular
pieces based on
the mode system
and accompany
poems that are
chanted by a
chorus. Through
whirling motions,
the dancers attain
a trance-like state
(see p259).
The Kılıç Kalkan, or spoon dance, of the Black Sea
region is performed to the rhythmic beating of
two wooden spoons. Traditional folk dancing is an
Low G clarinet important part of Turkish culture, as are colourful
regional costumes.
Belly dancing is popular

in Turkey and remains a
firm favourite with tourists.
The sensuous rippling body
movements, and gyrations of
the hips, require impressive
muscle control.
Bagpipes (tulum)
made from goatskin
Arabesque and pop music

are big business in Turkey,
its heroes and heroines
attaining cult status.
Ibrahim Tatlıses is a
much-loved performer
of arabesk, Oriental-
style music with lyrics
that bemoan human
hardship, while art-
music-trained Sezen
Aksu is one of the top-
selling pop stars.
Fasíl Music
Fasıl music is considered Mehter: Music of the Janissaries
semi-classical and is
performed in meyhane From 1299 until the dissolution of
(see p341) or concert halls. the Janissary corps in 1826, mehter
Its distinctive single harmony music accompanied the armies of
the Ottoman empire into battle, with
is similar to gypsy (Çingene)
a distinctive marching step to the
music, and both display a rhythm of the words, “Gracious God
masterful control of traditional is good. God is compassionate.” Today
wind, string and percussion the revived Mehter Troop performs
instruments. Fasıl music is at the Istanbul Military Museum
intended to be listened to, (see pp124–5) and at Topkapı Palace.
but gypsy music is often Mehter Troop performance
accompanied by dancing.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND

SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Turkey’s geographical and climatic diversity are quite short, the temperate conditions
presents almost limitless possibilities for are pleasant for walking and cycling. Turkey
outdoor enthusiasts. Anatolian winters also has many options for themed holidays
are ideal for skiers and mountaineers, and suitable for individuals or groups with
the long, hot Mediterranean summers are particular interests, or those who prefer
perfect for yacht cruises, diving and a more in-depth slant on historic events
windsurfing. Although spring and autumn or sporting activities.
Walking and Trekking Travel and World Expeditions a couple of good hotels and
Turkey’s spectacular basalt can organize guided treks. more accommodation in Eğirdir.
and limestone mountain ranges Türkü Turizm offers high- Erciyes, near Kayseri, has hotels,
provide ample opportunity for altitude trekking expeditions in reliable snowfalls and long runs.
hiking. Since the opening of the Kaçkar Mountains south of Though remote, Palandöken
the first marked long-distance Rize (see p278). Demavend (see p323) combines a long
trek, the Lycian Way, in 1999 Travel is an excellent local outfit, season with 45 km (28 miles)
(see pp210–11), marked walking with treks on Ararat, the Kaçkar of piste well served by chairlifts
trails have proliferated. The and the Aladağlar, as is Middle and several very good hotels.
St Paul Trail across the western Earth Travel, with treks on the İçem Tour will make bookings
Taurus, Abraham’s Path in Lycian, St Paul and Carian trails at most ski resorts.
remote southeast Turkey and among the routes on offer.
the Carian Way on the southern
Aegean coast are just some of
the routes. Non-marked hiking Mountaineering,
areas include the landscape of Climbing and Canyoning
Cappadocia, with its celebrated Turkey’s mountain ranges offer
“fairy chimneys” (see pp284–5). fantastic opportunities for serious
Areas for good day walks climbers. Deep snow in the
include the mountains of Lycia Aladağlar and Kaçkar makes for
on the Mediterranean coast, great winter ski-mountaineering.
as well as the Turkish Lake Bukla Tour can organize treks and
District around Eğirdir (see p258). guides. Bougainville and Get The rapids of the Çoruh River are only
For more serious walking Wet offer canyoning excursions. for experienced rafters
on unmarked trails, the
Bolkar range and, in particular, Whitewater Rafting
the Aladağlar range (part of the Skiing In the northeast, the Çoruh
Taurus Mountains), is superb, as Turkey’s most popular ski centre River has Grade-5 rapids and
are the Kaçkar Mountains in the is Uludağ, near Bursa (see p163). is the ideal testing ground for
northwest. The highest peak in It has many lifts and a range of serious rafters. Several overseas
Turkey is Mount Ağrı (Ararat) runs. Kartal, between Istanbul agencies offer trips. In contrast,
(see p319), near the eastern and Ankara, offers newer facilities day trips on the Köprülü River
border with Armenia, rising to and less crowded runs. Near (between Antalya and Side),
5,165 m (16,945 ft). Adventure Isparta, the Davraz ski centre or the Dalaman River near
outfits like Exodus, Mithra has reliable snow, two chairlifts, Fethiye, are suitable for families
and novices. Local agencies
and hotels near to both rafting
rivers offer day rafting packages
on the rivers. Adrift offers
Çoruh rafting tours; Medraft
and others run day tours on
the Köprülü River.
Paragliding
Few activities combine the
serenity and high altitude scenery
of paragliding. Babadağ Mountain,
above the coastal resort of Olü
The popular Palandöken ski resort near Erzurum Deniz (see pp216–17) and the
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 373
Beaches
Turkey’s Mediterranean, Aegean
and Black Sea coasts have many
beaches, offering a wide range
of seaside pursuits.
Conditions are generally
warm, though the Black Sea
can be rough at times, with
big waves. The Bodrum
peninsula has ideal conditions
for sailing and dinghy racing.
Water-skiing, water parasailing
and jet-skiing are offered
at major beachside hotels
and resorts.
Paragliding above the Mediterranean coast near Ölü Deniz The best place near Istanbul
for swimming and watersports
mountain ridge above Kaş Alternative Travel Group offer such as water-skiing and
(see p218) both have the ideal cruises. Westminster Classic windsurfing is the Princes’
updrafts, vistas and landing Tours have cruises with lectures Islands (see p162).
pads needed for this breath- and site visits. Gino Group in
taking sport. Skysports is an Marmaris rents and sells new
experienced and reputable and good-value reconditioned Hotel-Based Sports
company, offering expert tuition sailing yachts. Five-star hotels in the major
and equipment hire. resorts have good hard tennis
courts. Most four- and five-star
Diving hotels also organize table
Horse Riding and Marmaris, Bodrum, Fethiye tennis, billiards, archery, step
Pony Trekking Kaş and Alanya are all leading dancing and aerobics; even
Cappadocia’s trails weave diving resorts, offering warm some three-star hotels offer
through valleys and uplands. water and perfect conditions beach volleyball and excellent
One of the best companies to with splendid visibility. Here, swimming pools.
go with is Kirkit Voyage, based qualified scuba instructors
in Avanos. In Istanbul, the who are accredited to the
Klassis Golf and Country Club Professional Association of Golf
has an indoor ring and jumping Diving Instructors (PADI) The mild winter and early spring
facilities. The best place for offer tuition which takes make golf a year-round sport in
trail riding is the Equestrian novices as well as more Turkey. There are more than 10
Centre at Daday, a village experienced divers through an purpose-built courses at Belek,
near Kastamonu (see pp268–9). internationally recognized east of Antalya (see p228).
diving certificate course. Pamfilya Travel Agency can
The European Diving Centre arrange tailor-made tours for
Sailing and Cruising in Fethiye and Ayışığı Diving amateurs or championship
Holidays in Istanbul both offer high golfers. Near Istanbul, the
The Aegean and western quality tuition and can Kemer Golf and Country Club
Mediterranean coasts are perfect be recommended. has a championship course.
for cruises aboard comfortable
gulets (traditional wooden sailing
vessels). One- or two-week
cruises (called “blue voyages”)
are an excuse to relax, swim
and sunbathe, with occasional
forays ashore for shopping or
dining. Those with a historical
bent can combine one of these
cruises with visits to the many
fascinating ancient sites along
the coast, guided by an expert
in Greek and Roman history.
The chain of marinas, each
about a day’s sailing apart,
also offer secure moorings and
facilities for private yachts. Arya
Yachting in Bodrum or the UK’s Diving school in Marmaris, offering courses at all skill levels
Historical and Wildlife Tours

Cultural Tours Turkey’s diverse habitats support
Given Turkey’s wealth and many endemic plant species,
variety of historic sites, it is no especially of orchids and bulbs,
surprise that these are what with tulips being perhaps
attract most visitors to the the best-known examples.
country. Tourists who wish to This diversity, coupled with
visit ancient and classical sites the country’s pivotal position
can do so in the company along migration routes
of an expert in the field. between Europe, Asia
The classical sites of and Africa, assures the
the west and south, presence of numerous
Ephesus (see pp186–7) bird species from three
and Pergamum (see continents. In spring and
pp180–81) in particular, autumn, over 200 species
draw large crowds of can be spotted in the A bird hide in the Göksu Delta,
visitors, especially in the course of a two-week near Silifke
summer months. Others holiday. DHKD, a local
under excavation, such Marble head conservation group, would like to trace the
as Sagalassos and of Athena records observations and wanderings of St Paul.
Aphrodisias (see pp192–3), works to preserve habitats
are also very impressive such as wetlands. In-depth
and may be less congested. birding holidays are available Food Tours
Some sites, such as Patara and from Greentours. Turkish food is regarded
Xanthos (see p218) – whose as some of the best in the
chief tombs are on view in the world, with more and more
British Museum – can be visited people eager to sample its
as part of a gulet tour (see p373). range of delicacies and try
Istanbul deserves careful their hands at preparing
exploration, particularly its traditional dishes. Istanbul
churches, mosques and Eats offers excellent day
museums. Since the major sites tours around off-the-beaten-
in Istanbul and around Göreme track areas of the city, where
in Cappadocia are situated fairly visitors can sample a variety
close together, walking tours are of local cuisine and street food.
an attractive option. Visitors can learn how to cook
Much more recent history traditional Turkish with Cooking
is movingly commemorated Alaturka, or they can enjoy
on the Gallipoli peninsula a gastronomic gulet cruise
(see pp172–3), site of some of The House of the Virgin Mary, near along the Aegean and
the fiercest and most tragic Ephesus (see p186) Mediterranean coast with
battles of World War I. Peter Sommer Travels.
The Traveller, Andante Travels Religious Tours
and Martin Randall all offer tours Modern-day pilgrims can
of the classical sites, with follow in the footsteps of Other Specialist Holidays
Andante also covering much of the Apostle Paul, whose Several operators offer
the rest of the country. Gallipoli faith led him from Tarsus more specialized holidays
and Troy Tours operates tours to Ephesus and beyond. that involve particular
to the Dardanelles and Gallipoli. Visitors can tour the pursuits such as photography,
“Seven Churches” founded or painting and sketching.
by Paul, and see the small Kaş Eflatun Art Camp,
house near Ephesus where for example, runs weekly
the Virgin Mary is said to residential painting courses,
have spent her last days. while Fotografevi offers
There are also quite a photographic tours.
few Armenian and Greek A range of companies
Orthodox churches in also use Turkey’s relaxed
Istanbul (see p118) that are atmosphere and natural
still active. In southeastern beauty to offer breaks that
Turkey, there are haunting include such activities as
Syrian Orthodox churches yoga, massage, tai chi
and monasteries. and meditation. For details
Pacha Tours offer specialist on active holidays, try
Memorial cemetery, Gallipoli itineraries for pilgrims who Exclusive Escapes.
DIRECTORY
Ministry of Mountaineering, Sailing and Gallipoli and Troy Tours
Culture and Climbing and Cruising Holidays Kenan Çelik, Öğretmenler
Tourism Canyoning Sitesi 2 Utku Apt. D:2,
Alternative Travel Çanakkale. Tel (0532) 667
(For general information) Bougainville Group 57 38. ∑ kcelik.com
Atatürk Bul 29, Ankara. (See Adventure Travel 69–71 Banbury Road,
Tel (0312) 309 08 50. Companies.) Oxford OX2 6PE, UK. Martin Randall
Fax (0312) 312 43 59. Barley Mow Passage,
Tel (44) 1865 315 678.
∑ kulturturizm.gov.tr Bukla Tour Chiswick, London W4, UK.
∑ atg-oxford.co.uk
İstiklâl Cad, Postacilar Sok Tel (44) 20 8742 3355.
1/2, Beyoğlu, Istanbul. Arya Yachting ∑ martinrandall.com
Adventure Travel
Companies Tel (0212) 245 06 35. Caferpaşa Cad 21/A, The Traveller
∑ climbararat.com Bodrum. Tel (0252) 316 2 Bury Place, London
Bougainville ∑ bukla.com 15 80. ∑ aryatours.com WC1A 2JL, UK.
Çukurbağlı Cad 10, Kaş. Tel (44) 20 7269 2770.
Get Wet Gino Group
Tel (0242) 836 37 37. ∑ the-traveller.co.uk
Eski Lara Yolu 198/1, Netsel Marina, Marmaris.
∑ bt-turkey.com
Şirinyalı, Antalya. Tel (0252) 412 06 76.
Wildlife Tours
Demavend Travel Tel (0242) 324 08 55. ∑ ginogroup.com
Esenbey Mah, Sefik Soyer ∑ getwet.com.tr Greentours
Meydani, Niğde.
Westminster Classic
Gauledge Lane, Longnor,
Tours
Tel (0388) 232 73 63. Skiing 108 Monkleigh Road,
Buxton SK17 0PA, UK.
∑ demavendtravel.com Tel (44) 1298 83563.
İcem Tour Morden SM4 4EP, UK. ∑ greentours.co.uk
Exodus Mimar Mehmet Ağa Cad Tel (44) 20 8286 7842.
Grange Mills, Weir Road, 34, Sultanahmet, Istanbul. ∑ westminsterclassic Religious Tours
London, SW12 ONE, UK. Tel (0212) 638 19 86. tours.com
Tel (44) 020 8772 3936 or Pacha Tours
∑ icemtour.com
0845 869 8254. Diving 295 Madison Avenue,
∑ exodus.co.uk New York, USA.
Whitewater Ayısığı Diving Tel (800) 722 4288 (US).
Mithra Travel Rafting Bağdat Cad, İçlaiye Apt ∑ pachatours.com
Kılıçaslan Mah, 24/4, Kızıltoprak, Istanbul.
Adrift
Hesapçı Sok 70.
127 High St, Hungerford Tel (0216) 418 22 44. Food Tours
Tel (0242) 248 77 47. ∑ ayisigidiving.com
∑ mithratravel.com RG17 0DL, UK. Cooking Alaturka
Tel (44) 1488 711 52. European Diving Akbıyık Cad 72,
Türkü Turizm ∑ adrift.co.uk Centre Sultanahmet. Tel (0212)
İnönü Cad 47, Fevzi Cakmak Cad 53, 458 59 19. ∑ cooking
Çamlıhemşin, Rize. Medraft alaturka.com.
Meydankavağı, Şehıtler Fethiye. Tel (0252) 614
Tel (0464) 651 72 30. 97 71. ∑ european
Cad, Antalya. Istanbul Eats
∑ turkutour.com
Tel (0242) 312 57 70. diving centre.com ∑ istanbuleats.com
Walking and ∑ medraft.com.tr Peter Sommer Travels
Golf
Trekking Chippenham House,
Paragliding Kemer Golf and 102 Monnow Street,
Demavend Travel Monmouth, NP25 3EQ.
Skysports Country Club
(See Adventure Travel Tel (01) 600 888 220
Carsi Cad, Tonoz Otel Alti, Göktürk Beldesi,
Companies). ∑ petersommer.com
Ölü Deniz, Fethiye, Muğla. Kemerburgaz, Istanbul.
Exodus Tel (0252) 617 05 11. Tel (0212) 239 70 10.
Other Specialist
(See Adventure Travel ∑ skysports-turkey. ∑ kg-cc.com Holidays
Companies). com Pamfilya Travel
Middle Earth Travel Agency Exclusive Escapes
Horse Riding and Alexander House, 15
Karşı Bucak Cad, Göreme. İsıklar Cad 57/B, Antalya.
Pony Trekking Princes Road, Richmond,
Tel (0384) 271 25 59. Tel (0242) 243 15 00.
TW10 6DQ, UK. Tel (44) 20
∑ middleearth ∑ pamfilya.com
Kirkit Voyage 8605 3500. ∑ exclusive
travel.com Atatürk Cad 50, Avanos. escapes.co.uk
Türkü Turizm Tel (0384) 511 32 59.
Historical and
Cultural Tours Fotografevi
(See Adventure Travel ∑ kirkit.com Tütüncu Çikmazı 4,
Companies). Klassis Golf and Andante Travels Ltd Galatasaray, Beyoğlu,
World Expeditions Country Club The Clock Tower, Istanbul.
Seyman Köyü, Southampton Road, Tel (0212) 249 02 02.
81 Craven Gardens,
London SW19 8LU, UK. Altıntepe Mevkii, Silivri Whaddon, Salisbury, Kaş Eflatun Art Camp
Tel (44) 20 8545 9030. (W of Istanbul). SP5 3HT, UK. Çukurbag, Kaş, Antalya.
∑ worldexpeditions. Tel (0212) 710 13 13. Tel (44) 1722 713 800. Tel (0242) 839 54 29.
com ∑ klassisgolf.com.tr ∑ andantetravels.co.uk ∑ kasartcamp.com
376 TRAVELLER’S NEEDS
Spas and Hot Springs and the focus is on inner health

and harmony. The healthy
Turkey’s geophysical matrix, which occasionally causes regime promotes relaxation
earthquakes and tremors, has an unexpected upside seen and rejuvenation.
in the geothermal springs on which the country seems to be
floating. Over 1,000 thermal hot springs (and some icy cold Hamams
ones) bubble from deep seismic fissures at high temperatures The traditional Turkish bath,
and under great pressure. Roman armies soothed battle or hamam (see p81), was an
wounds in the rich, therapeutic mineral pools and Turkish integral part of the Ottoman
families have taken the waters for decades. Tourists are social structure, and scrubbing
increasingly travelling here for their rejuvenating properties. and massages were a ritual
procedure. Top spa hotels all
have hamams. Look for quality in
the most remedial in Turkey. the central stone – it should be
The cascading calciferous transparent, smooth and highly
pools at Pamukkale (see p190) polished. Bursa’s Çakır Hamam
are very popular. A short is simple but friendly and dates
distance away at Karahitit, the from 1484. The historic Ottoman
waters contain iron and the Cağaloğlu Baths in Istanbul
source is much hotter. Pam are very popular. On the
Thermal Hotel is one of the Aegean coast, Bodrum Hamam
most professional and well- (see p198) has a hotel pick-up
run of the thermal hotels. service. Sefa Hamami in Antalya
is a restored 13th-century Seljuk
bath, while the Kelebek Hotel is
Five-Star Spas a cave hotel in Göreme with
Turkey’s leading spa hotels are a splendid hamam.
Bathers in the rehabilitating calciferous located in Istanbul, Ankara
pools at Pamukkale and near Bodrum. None has
geothermal springs but all Therapeutic Spas
Geothermal Spring offer a sensual and Medical tourism is popular in
Resorts invigorating experience. Turkey and several spas
Turkey’s most potent thermal The Kempinski Hotel concentrate on specific health
springs have a high mineral Barbaros Bay is a renowned problems. Natur-Med Thermal
content. There are springs all Six Senses Spa, the only in Springs & Health Resort offers
over the country but very few Turkey. Eastern traditions and treatments for, among others,
have accommodation facilities; remedies meet Aegean chronic disease, weight loss and
these are among the best. atmosphere at this fine spa. detoxification. Near Sivas (see
Reputed to have soothed the One of the country’s most p299) in the secluded hills are
wounds of Agamemnon’s Greek spiritual spas is at Hôtel Les the Kangal Fish Springs, a
soldiers, Balçova Thermal Hotel Ottomans, which adheres to healing centre for psoriasis.
was a pioneer in thermal Oriental feng shui concepts. The hot springs contain
tourism. The 70°C (158°F) Ankara’s impressive Swissôtel selenium and support a type
geothermal springs have an Amrita Spa and Wellness of fish that nibbles affected skin.
exceptional mineral count. Centre is huge and combines Documented since Roman
Bursa is one of Turkey’s most heavenly, healthy and times, Ayaş İçmece ve Kaplı-
venerable spa cities. The Yeni wholesome treatments. caları is noted for cures and
Kaplıca complex is historic and At the Ritz Carlton’s Laveda rehabilitation. There are two
hot, 85°C (185°F). The spa for Spa, staff are superbly trained spas here sharing a thermal
men is a traditional 16th-
century domed building.
Mineral baths and treatments
for families are also available.
Of the many geothermal
areas north and west of Ankara,
Kızılcahamam is best suited to
accommodate visitors. Among
these is the Hotel Ab-ı Hayat.
The mineral waters at
Yalova Thermal Hot Springs
bubble up at 65° C (149°F)
from a deep volcanic source
and are considered to be The Turkish hamam at the luxury Hôtel Les Ottomans
Set in a tranquil, rural location

on the banks of the Meander
River, Umut Thermal Resort
and Spa is ideal. Standards are
high and the atmosphere is
clinical but friendly.
Located on the Meander
River embankment, Yenice
Ilıcası Kamara İşletmesi offers
Clients taking the healing waters of Natur-Med Thermal Springs 15 basic rooms; however,
clientele return regularly
source. The waters are so hot A delightful spa village of small for its uncomplicated charm.
and heavily mineralized that streams, gardens and rustic
drinking and bathing are done bridges forms the backdrop
under medical supervision. for the thermal waters of Aqua Accessories
Hamamayağı. The healing Beautiful spa and
spring contains radon in hamam products can
Rural Spas therapeutic quantities. be found in shops
Ayder is a well-known Black Sea A remedial watering such as Derviş
thermal centre, with hot springs hole since the Phrygia Bath Accessories,
ideal for physical therapy and era (800 BC), the which has two
rehabilitation. The facilities Hüdai thermal outlets in Istanbul’s
bask in pastoral high-altitude waters relieve Grand Bazaar,
surroundings, with about many of life’s Derviş Bath and Abdullah
20 simple pensions. modern twinges. Accessories’ products Natural Products.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Geothermal Kempinski Hotel Kelebek Hotel Hamamayağı Tesisleri
Spring resorts Barbaros Bay Aydinli Mah, Yavuz Between Havza and Ladık.
Kızılağaç Köyü, Gerenkuyu Sok 1, Göreme. Tel (0362) 782 00 01/02.
Balçova Thermal Hotel Mevkii, Yalıçiftlik, Bodrum, Tel (0384) 271 25 31.
Vali Hüseyin Öğütcen Cad Hüdai Yeni Thermal
Tel (0252) 311 03 03. ∑
2, Balçova, Îzmir. Sefa Hamamı Hotel
kempinski-bodrum.com
Tel (0232) 259 01 02. Kokatepe Sokak Sandıklı, Afyon.
Ritz-Carlton Barbaros Mahallesi 32, Tel (272) 535 73 27.
∑ balcovatermal.com
Süzer Plaza Elmadağ, Antalya. ∑ hudai.sandikli.bel.tr
Hotel Ab-ı Hayat 34367, Şişli, Istanbul. Tel (0242) 241 23 21.
Umut Thermal Resort
Kazım Karabekir Cad, Tel (0212) 334 44 44. ∑ sefahamamı.com
and Spa
Kızılcahamam, 06890. ∑ ritzcarlton.com
Therapeutic Spas Hasköy Tekke Köyü Yolu
Tel (0312) 736 56 20. Swissôtel Amrita Spa üzeri 9 km, Kokar Hamam
Pam Thermal Hotel and Wellness Centre Ayas İçmece ve Mevkii, Sarayköy, Denizli.
Beytur Turizm Îşletmeleri Yıldızevler Mah, Jose Marti Kaplıcaları Tel (0258 ) 426 11 01.
A. Ş., Karahayıt, Pamukkale. Cad 2, Çankaya, Ankara. İçmeler Mevkii Ayaş,
Yenice Ilıcası Kamara
Tel (0258) 271 41 40. Tel (0312) 409 36 66. Beypazarı, Ankara.
İşletmesi
∑ pamthermal.com ∑ amritaspa.com Tel (0312) 718 31 01.
Yenicekent, Buldan,
∑ ayasicmece.com.tr
Yalova Thermal Hot Hamams Denizli.
Springs Kangal Fish Springs Tel (0258) 434 60 97.
Yalova Termal, 77400. Bodrum Hamam Kavak Köyü Mevkii, ∑ umutthermal.com
Tel (0226) 675 74 00. Cevak Şakir Sok, Fabrika Kangal, Sivas.
∑ yalovatermal.com Sok 42, Bodrum. Tel (0346) 469 11 51. Aqua Accessories
Tel (0252) 313 41 29. ∑ baliklikaplica.biz
Yeni Kaplıca Abdullah Natural
∑ bodrumhamami. Natur-Med Health
Kükürtlü Mah, Yenikaplıca Products
com.tr Resort Alibaba Türbe Sok 25,
Cad 6, Osmangazi, Bursa.
Cağaloğlu Baths Davutlar, Kuşadası. Nurosmaniye, Istanbul.
Tel (0224) 236 69 68. Tel (0256) 657 22 80.
Cağaloğlu, Istanbul. Tel (0212) 526 30 70.
Tel (0212) 522 24 24. ∑ natur-med.com.tr ∑ abdulla.com
Five-Star Spas
∑ cagalogluhamami.
Rural Spas Derviş Bath
Hôtel Les Ottomans com.tr
Accessories
Muallim Naci Cad 168, Çakır Hamamı Ayder Turizm A.Ş. Kesiciler Cad 33–35,
Kuruçeşme, Istanbul. Atatürk Cad 101, Çamlihemşin, Rize. Kapalıçarşı, Istanbul.
Tel (0212) 359 15 00. Osmangazi, Bursa. Tel (0464) 657 21 02. Tel (0212) 514 45 25.
∑ lesottomans.com Tel (0224) 221 25 80. ∑ ayderkaplicalari.com ∑ dervis.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 380–387

Travel Information 388–399
380 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Many first-time visitors to Turkey expect the respect for the laws of the country and for
country to be sedate and reserved, due to the its religious differences, culture and class
influence of Islam, so the exuberant and lively structure, even if you do not agree with
character of Turkish life comes as a pleasant the beliefs or politics. By and large, Turkish
surprise. Observing a few local customs and people are very friendly and all Turks will
learning some basic Turkish words or phrases welcome any effort to appreciate their
will get you off to a good start. Always show lifestyle and respect their traditions.
Visas and Passports Tourist Information

Visitors to Turkey must have a full The sign for a tourist informa-
passport with at least six months’ tion office is a white “i” on a
validity. Unless citizens of a visa- green background in a white
exempt country, visitors to Turkey box. There are tourist offices
must obtain a visa. It is possible to in most Turkish cities and
apply for this online at www.evisa. resorts. They are usually open
gov.tr. Visitors will need to fill out a 9am–5pm Monday to Saturday,
form and make a payment online. but some stay open later in
Printed visas need to be carried summer; the one at Atatürk
at the point of entry into Turkey. Airport is open 24 hours a day.
The fee for citizens of the USA, UK In provincial areas the staff
and Ireland is US$20. For citizens may speak only basic English.
of Australia and Canada, the fee is The Turkish tourist board in
US$60. Visas are multi-entry, and your own country will also be
valid for 90 or 180 days. Require- a good source of information.
ments change, so for up-to-date
information visit www.mfa.gov.tr Visitors on the steps leading up to
or contact the Turkish consulate Admission Fees and Dolmabahçe Palace
or embassy in your country. Opening Hours
Entry fees to major attractions Shops open from 9am to 7pm
in Turkey’s main tourist areas (see p362). Some close on
Customs Information (Istanbul, Cappadocia, the Sundays, although shopping
Airports and main road entry Western Mediterranean and malls, supermarkets and small
points offer a full customs service, the Aegean) are comparable to grocers are usually open seven
but customs hours at major ports those in Europe. Lesser-known days a week from 10am to 10pm.
are 8:30am–5:30pm on weekdays. establishments are cheaper, as
Outside these hours, a fee must be are sights in less touristy areas.
paid for a customs official to carry Most museums close one day Etiquette
out their inspections. a week, often Monday, though Turks tend to dress smartly.
You can buy duty-free items closing days vary in Istanbul. In eastern areas of the country,
at the airport upon entering the Exhibits in the major museums conservative cities such as
country. Visitors over 18 can are usually labelled in both Konya and Kayseri, and devout
bring in 1.5 kg (3 lb) of Turkish and English, areas of Istanbul, such as Fatih,
coffee, 120 ml (4 fl oz) while less visited many women cover their
of perfume, 1 litre or venues may have heads, arms and legs in public.
two 75 cl bottles information in Turkish Visitors are not expected to
(35 fl oz) of spirits and only. Museums tend follow suit, but be aware that
200 cigarettes. There is to open from 9am to some Turks may be offended
no limit to how much 5:30pm, sometimes by exposed limbs. Public
currency you can bring Customs service with a lunch break. drunkenness is frowned upon,
in. The maximum when emblem Archaeological sites and men should avoid walking
leaving is US$5,000 (or often operate from 9am around shirtless away from
equivalent), but this is rarely to 7pm in summer and from the beach, even in resorts.
enforced. You need a permit to 9am to 5pm in winter. Make sure you always show
export antiquities (see p363). Most banks are open from respect for Atatürk, whose
Turkey is strict regarding 8:30am to 5pm Monday image you will see often.
drugs; sniffer dogs are used to Friday, and state banks Istanbul has a lively gay scene.
at some airports. Contact the close for lunch from noon Homosexual visitors are un-
Turkish consulate or embassy to 1:30pm. Exchange offices likely to experience problems,
in your country for more (döviz) are usually open until but it is best to avoid overt
customs information. 8pm or 9pm (see p384). displays of physical affection.
Yacht in a picturesque bay, Aegean Sea
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 381
Smoking is prohibited in all on exit. Toilets are marked Bay Some Turks help out by leaving
enclosed spaces, including for men and Bayan for women. recyclable materials next to,
public transport, restaurants The attendant may supply toilet rather than in, the bins.
and bars, and even water-pipe paper, but it is a good idea to Electricity is expensive in
(nargile) cafés. carry tissues with you. Turkey, so many people use
If you are reluctant to use solar-energy systems for
the squat toilets generally found their hot-water needs. If you
Visiting Mosques in public and mosque facilities, are serious about energy
Large mosques are open all you can ask to use the western- conservation, check that your
day, closing after last prayers style toilets in most hotels, proposed accommodation
in the evening, while smaller restaurants and cafés. Museums has such a system installed.
ones open only for the five and major sights all have
daily prayer times (namaz). toilets, too, and outside the
Non-Muslims should not enter cities, motorway service areas
DIRECTORY
a mosque during prayers, the have excellent, often free, Consulates in Istanbul
times of which are clearly washroom facilities.
displayed on a board outside or Australia
just inside the mosque. Prayer Asker Ocaği Cad 15,
times are also signalled by the Time Elmadağ. Map 1 C3.
Tel (0212) 243 13 33/36.
call to prayer (ezan) from Turkey is 2 hours ahead of
a loudspeaker fixed to the Greenwich Mean Time and Canada
minaret of the mosque. British Summer Time. New York Buyukdere Cad 209,
Dress appropriately when is 7 hours behind and Los Tekfen Tower,
visiting a mosque (see pp36–7). Angeles is 10 hours behind. 16th Floor, Levent 4.
Everybody should cover their Map 1 A4. Tel (0212) 385 97 00.
shoulders, and women should New Zealand
cover their heads, too; do not Electricity Inönü Cad 48/3, Taksim.
wear shorts or miniskirts, and Turkey’s electrical current is Map 1 C4. Tel (0212) 244 02 72.
remove your shoes. Shawls 220–240 volts AC. Plugs have United Kingdom
to cover your head, arms two round pins, which fit most Meşrutiyet Cad 34,
and shoulders are provided European two-pin plugs. Tepebaşı.
by some mosques. Shoes are Bring a universal adaptor for Map 1 C4.
usually left on racks, either all other voltages. Tel (0212) 334 64 00.
outside or just inside the
United States
main entrance. Mosques
Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2 (to be
frequented by lots of tourists
renamed Üçşehitler Sok), İstinye.
often provide plastic bags Tel (0212) 335 90 00.
for visitors to carry around
their footwear during the Customs Information
visit. Make as little noise as
The main customs office in
possible inside and show
Ankara will answer queries
consideration for anyone
in English. Their website
who is praying there.
details items that can be
brought into Turkey.
Language Tel (0312) 306 80 00.
∑ gumruk.gov.tr
Turks will appreciate any
attempt to speak their difficult Colourful display of fruit and vegetables Tourist Information
language, so try to learn a few at a market stall
words. Menus are printed Australia
in several languages in many Responsible Tourism 428 George Street, Room 17,
Level 3, Sydney NSW 2000.
restaurants and cafés, and in Environmental awareness is
Tel (61) 29 223 3055.
areas with lots of foreign visitors a fairly new concept in Turkey,
most shopkeepers can speak though a few recycling bins United Kingdom
one other language. grace the streets of Istanbul 29–30 St James’s St, London
and other cities. Traditionally, SW1A 1HB.
recycling is carried out by the Tel (44) 20 7839 7778.
Public Conveniences Roma community, who, pulling ∑ gototurkey.co.uk
Public toilets are thin on the handcarts fitted with giant United States
ground in Turkish cities, but sacks, scavenge through the 821 United Nations Plaza,
most mosques have facilities for waste bins left out on the street New York, NY 10017.
both men and women. As with for collection. Plastics, paper, Tel (212) 687 2194.
public toilets, there is usually an metal and glass are sold to ∑ tourismturkey.org
attendant and a small fee to pay private operators for recycling.
382 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health If you are planning to visit remote

areas, it is best to travel in a group.
For the sensible visitor, Turkey is probably safer to visit than The ethnically Kurdish southeast
many European countries. Unfortunately, however, high has been unstable for many years,
unemployment and the huge gap between rich and poor with protests and outbreaks of
mean that petty theft and pickpocketing are on the rise in big stone-throwing occurring from
time to time. Visitors who
cities. Health care is of a high standard, with a thriving private
wander into rural areas in this
health sector alongside the state-run system, but it is essential region may be viewed with
to keep basic immunization up to date before you travel. suspicion by security forces.
The army, Atatürk and the
Turkish flag are fundamental
Police embassy. Most countries have symbols of Turkish identity, and
There are a number of police missions in Ankara, and some disrespect towards them is seen
forces in Turkey, from traffic have consulates in Istanbul as an insult to the state. Always
wardens to rapid-response (see p381), İzmir or Antalya. ask permission before taking
motorcycle units (Dolphin photographs of any individuals,
Police). The Jandarma, who even in public places. Taking
are attached to the army, are What to be Aware of pictures of military installations
responsible for policing rural Petty crime is on the rise in is strictly forbidden. The political
areas. In towns, the Emniyet Polisi Turkey. Visitors to Istanbul should turmoil and conflict in Syria has
(Security Police) carry out law- be particularly vigilant, especially increased security concerns in
enforcement duties. A special on the crowded public transport Turkey’s southeast.
tourism police force (Turizm system, as pickpocketing is a
Polisi) operates in Istanbul and growing problem. Bag-snatching
other tourist areas. The navy- is less common, but be wary. Use In an Emergency
blue-uniformed Zabıta a money belt, or wear your bag If your condition is life-
is a municipal police force across your chest and walk threatening, you should be
that patrols bazaars and on the inner part of the treated automatically, but it is a
other areas of pavement. Do not good idea to have your insurance
commerce. leave valuables lying details on you at all times in case
It is obligatory to around in your hotel your ability to pay is questioned.
carry some form of room. Whether you In Istanbul, the state-run Taksim
identification with you are male or female, Ilkyardım Hastanesi (Taksim
in Turkey, either the avoid lonely areas, Emergency Hospital) has a good
original or at least a Badge of the Dolphin such as Istanbul’s reputation; in provincial cities, it
photocopy. The police rapid-response unit old city walls, is best to use one of the many
and Jandarma carry especially at night. excellent private hospitals, several
out spot checks on cars, buses It is also best to avoid urban of which have an office staffed
and trucks. A passport or driving protests of any kind, particularly by at least one fluent English
licence is usually sufficient. in areas such as Istanbul’s (and other languages) speaker.
Police officers are very helpful, Taksim Square (see p115),
but should you need help, the because they can quickly
first place to contact is your spiral out of control. Lost and Stolen Property
Turks will go to great lengths to
return lost property. It is always
worth returning to the last place
your item was seen, or going to
the tourism police. In Istanbul,
property left on public transport
can be reclaimed from the
I.E.T.T. (see p397).
If you have anything stolen in
an area where there are tourism
police, such as Istanbul, report
the theft to them. Elsewhere,
report it at a police station (Emniyet
Polis Merkezi), but bear in mind that
most officers have either no, or
only very basic, English language
skills. To make an insurance claim,
you will have to give (and sign) a
statement. Contact your embassy
Security policeman Traffic policeman Dolphin policeman or consulate for help (see p381).
P E R S O N A L S E C U R I T Y A N D H E A LT H 383
Minor Hazards hiking or camping, do not

Before travelling to expose any bare flesh.
Turkey, be sure that
your basic inoculations
(diphtheria, polio, Travel and Health
typhoid and tetanus) Insurance
are up to date. Check Take out travel and medical
Fire engine with your doctor insurance before leaving, and
about hepatitis A make sure repatriation cover
and hepatitis B too. is included. Turkey’s state health
Some visitors system has few agreements
experience digestive with other countries, and
upsets due to the private hospital costs are high.
amount of oil used You have to pay for treatment
in Turkish cooking. and claim the money back on
Security Police (Emniyet Polisi) car Try to eat lightly for the your insurance. Both state and
first few days, and keep private medical facilities
alcohol intake to a accept major credit cards.
minimum. Should you
suffer from stomach DIRECTORY
troubles, remedies
available include Emergency Numbers
Lomotil, Ge-Oral (oral Ambulance
rehydration salts) and Tel 112.
State ambulance Buscopan. If you have
serious and/or Fire
persistent stomach Tel 110.
Hospitals and problems, it might be food Jandarma
Pharmacies poisoning and it is advisable Tel 156.
The Turkish health system to seek medical assistance.
Police (Emergency)
has both public and private Bottled water is safer to drink
Tel 155.
hospitals. Private hospitals are than tap water. Grilled meat
generally better equipped and is sometimes served lightly Tourism Police
staffed, and less bureaucratic, cooked. Ask for it well done Yerebatan Cad 6,
than state hospitals. They may (iyi pişmiş), and avoid foods that Sultanahmet, Istanbul.
run their own ambulance ser- may have been sitting in the sun. Tel (0212) 527 45 03 or 528 53 69.
vices, and they are also more Mosquitoes can be an
likely to have staff speaking a annoying problem along the Hospitals
foreign language. Go to http:// Aegean and Mediterranean Ahu Hetman Hospital
turkey.usembassy.gov/medical_ coasts, and even in big cities Marmaris.
information.html for a list of like Istanbul, so bring mosquito Tel (0252) 417 77 77.
state and private hospitals. repellent from home. There is ∑ ahuhastanesi.com
Most non-prescription a very remote risk of contracting
Bayındır Medical Centre
medications are available malaria in the Tigris and
Eskişehir Highway, 2 Söğütözü,
at reasonable prices from a Euphrates river basins between
Ankara. Tel (0312) 287 90 00.
pharmacy (eczane), and many April and July and you should
types of antibiotics are available consult a travel clinic for the International Hospital
over the counter. Visitors are latest advice. At the seaside, Yeşilköy, Istanbul.
allowed to bring into the watch out for sea urchins (deniz Tel (0212) 468 44 44.
country sufficient quantities kestanesi) clinging to the rocks. ∑ internationalhospital.com.tr
of medications as are required If you step on one, seek medical Medical Park
for the duration of their trip. attention at once. In rocky Antalya. Tel (0242) 314 34 34.
Turkish pharmacists are terrain, look out for scorpions ∑ medicalpark.com.tr
professional and well trained; and snakes.
Alanya Yaşam Hastanesi
most are also qualified to give Rabies is prevalent in Turkey, so
Alanya. Tel (0850) 777 07 77
injections (iğne). If you need don’t approach stray animals.
∑ yasamhastahaneleri.com.
advice outside normal business If bitten, consult a doctor imme-
hours, the name of the duty diately. If you are hiking in remote Özel Letoon Hospital
pharmacist (nobetci eczane) areas, you may come across Fethiye. Tel (0252) 646 96 00.
for that day is usually posted fierce shepherd dogs – don’t ∑ letoonhospital.com.tr
in a pharmacy window. come between the dog and its Taksim Ilkyardım Hastanesi
Condoms (prezervatif ) are flock. More serious is a potentially Taksim, Istanbul. Map 1 B4.
available in most pharmacies, fatal tick-borne disease, Crimean Tel (0212) 252 43 00.
even if not on display. haemorrhagic fever. If you are
384 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency

There is no limit to the amount of foreign currency you
can bring into the country. After decades of high inflation,
the Turkish lira (Türk Lirası) has stabilized, with inflation
of around 7.5 per cent in 2015. A sign of this new-found
confidence was the introduction in 2012 of the ¨ symbol to
denote the currency. Note that, although many goods and
service prices are shown with the ¨ symbol or TRY, many
places still use the “old” abbreviation for the Türk Lirası, TL.
In large cities and the vast majority of coastal resorts, it is
easy to pay for everything using credit or debit cards, and Cash dispenser with instructions in a range
of languages
to withdraw money from ATMs.
hotels offer discounts for cash
payment. If you purchase an
Döviz in Istanbul. Döviz are open airline ticket from a travel agent,
for longer hours than banks, however, they will charge a
and usually on Saturdays too. commission of about 3 per
Be aware that their exchange cent of the fare.
rate is sometimes lower than in If you need money in an
banks, though few now emergency, try a money
charge commission. order (havale) service, such as
Western Union, which works in
A branch of the Turkish bank Garanti conjunction with some banks
in Istanbul ATMs and the Turkish Post Office (PTT,
Automated Teller Machines see p387), providing a safe,
Banks and Bureaux (ATMs) accept most debit cards speedy – but expensive –
de Change and some credit cards, such as way to transfer money.
Most private banks, such as MasterCard and Visa, allowing
Garanti are open 9am–5pm; you to withdraw around £250
some bigger branches have daily. There is an English- Value-Added Tax
limited opening hours on language screen prompt Value-added tax (KDV in Turkish)
Saturdays. State banks, such as on every machine. It is worth runs at 18 per cent and is
Ziraat, close noon–1:30pm for remembering that using a included in all prices. If you need
lunch. Service can be slow, but debit or credit card at an ATM a receipt for purchases, ask for
they give the best exchange rate. usually involves a fee. a fiş; if you need an invoice, ask
Even the smallest Turkish Always exercise caution while for a fatura. For information on
town will have at least one bank, using ATMs; be aware of anyone tax refunds, see p362.
generally found on the main standing close to you and shield
shopping street. A number of the numbered keypad when DIRECTORY
foreign banks, such as Citibank entering your PIN.
and HSBC, can also be found Banks and Bureaux
in most cities. de Change
Most banks offer an auto- Travellers' Cheques
and Credit Cards Bamka Döviz
mated queuing system. Take Cumhuriyet Cad 23, Taksim,
a numbered ticket from the Travellers' cheques are very Istanbul. Map 1 C3.
dispenser (for currency exchange difficult to cash, so visitors are Tel (0212) 253 70 00.
there’s usually a button marked advised not to bring them.
Garanti
döviz), and wait for your number Credit cards such as Visa, Yeniçeriler Cad 25, Eminönü,
to flash up on screen. Existing MasterCard and American Istanbul. Map 4 C4.
customers have priority, so you Express are accepted in most Tel (0212) 455 52 50.
may wait a long time. hotels, restaurants and shops.
The İş Bankası at Istanbul’s Many debit cards issued by Ziraat
Yeniçeriler Cad 55, Beyazıt, Istanbul.
Atatürk Airport is open international banks such as HSBC
Map 4 C4. Tel (0212) 517 06 00.
24 hours a day. Several other and Citibank are also accepted,
Turkish banks also have outlets but check that your card is valid Credit Cards
at airports, offering a full range internationally before you travel.
of banking services, and there Notify your bank before you American Express
are plenty of ATM machines. leave, so they expect the card Tel (0212) 244 25 25.
An alternative to banks are to be used in Turkey. MasterCard & Visa
the numerous exchange offices There is no fee for using Tel (0212) 225 00 80.
(döviz). One such office is Bamka credit cards, although many
BANKING AND CURRENCY 385
Currency currency was introduced in people, out of habit, still talk in

The currency in Turkey is 2012. The lira is divided into the old, hyper-inflated lira terms,
known as the Turkish lira (or, kuruş, with 100 kuruş equalling asking, for example, bir milyon
more officially, as your credit ¨1. The lowest denomination (one million) for a glass of tea.
card statement will show, TRY). note is ¨5, and the highest is Visitors are allowed to take up to
A half-anchor symbol for the ¨200. Be aware that some Turkish US$5,000 out of Turkey in cash.
Banknotes
Turkish banknotes come in six
denominations – ¨200, ¨100, ¨50,
¨20, ¨10 and ¨5 – each with its own colour.
All notes show the face of Atatürk
on the front, with another leading figure
from Turkish history on the reverse.
200 lira
100 lira
50 lira
20 lira
10 lira
Coins
Coins are in denominations of 5
kuruş, 10 kuruş, 25 kuruş, 50 kuruş
and ¨1 (100 kuruş). All coins feature
Atatürk on one side.
5 lira
1 lira 50 kuruş 25 kuruş 10 kuruş 5 kuruş

386 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media Public Telephones

Telephone calls can be made
Throughout the country, Türk Telekom monopolizes fixed-line from public phone boxes, post
telephone communications. Major Turkish cities enjoy easy offices (PTT), Türk Telekom (TT)
access to high-speed broadband connections. Internet cafés centres or street kiosks using
abound, though their reign is being challenged by an ever- phonecards. The Alocart, with
its scratch-off code, allows you
increasing number of places offering Wi-Fi and 3G technology.
to make calls from any landline
Although slow, the postal service is pretty reliable. Post in Turkey. The chipped Türk
offices are clearly identified by the letters PTT. Many of them Telekom Kontörlü Kart comes
change foreign currency and offer a service for sending and in units of ¨5, ¨10 and
receiving money (see p384). Making phone calls from ¨25. Both cards can be
countertop metered phones within a PTT building is fairly purchased from PTT and TT
centres and, for an additional
economical, too.
charge, from street sellers and
There are dozens of Turkish papers vying for readers’ kiosks. Many public phones
attention, ranging from the pro-Islamic to the staunchly also take credit cards.
secular – and all persuasions in-between. Satellite TV has
revolutionized the country’s once-staid broadcasting,
and many foreign-language channels are available.
Mobile Phones
Mobile (cell) phones are popular
and essential items in modern
Turkey. The market is dominated
by three players: Türkcell,
Vodafone and Avea.
Most visitors with a roaming
facility can use their existing
mobile phone as they would
in their home country, since
Turkey uses the standard 900
or 1800 MHz frequencies. North
American phones, however, are Using a laptop computer in a designated
not compatible with the Turkish Wi-Fi area
system and will not work there.
Calls made using a locally Internet Access
bought SIM are cheaper than Internet cafés can be found in
Making a call from a public telephone box using your roaming facility. every Turkish town and city,
in Istanbul It is possible to buy a SIM locally, although many are largely
from the stands of the operators devoted to teenagers playing
International and Local at both Istanbul airports and in online games. They charge a
Telephone Calls most Turkish towns and cities. very modest fee by the hour,
Istanbul has two area codes: The big drawback is that the but you can usually negotiate a
0212 for the European side phone will be locked after two half-hour rate for minimal
and 0216 for the Asian side. weeks. If you are staying longer, usage. Most also offer hot and
To call a 0212 number from you can get around the problem cold drinks and snacks at
the Asian side, you must use by registering your phone reasonable prices. Keyboards
the prefix 0212, and vice versa. with one of the main operators here naturally incorporate
To call another city in Turkey, and paying a one-off import Turkish characters, which can
use the appropriate area code, tax. Alternatively, buy a cheap make them very frustrating to
for example, 0224 for Bursa. second-hand phone in Turkey. use. Be particularly wary of the
To make an international dotless “i” (ı), which, if typed in
call from Turkey, dial 00 by mistake, renders Internet
followed by the relevant searches useless. The @ symbol
country code (Australia: 61; is generally found on the Q key.
Canada and the US: 1; Many cafés in big cities and
New Zealand: 64; Republic tourist resorts offer free wireless
of Ireland: 353; UK: 44). Internet connection. Wi-Fi is also
For international operator found in most hotels and pensions,
services, dial 115; for intercity Türk Telekom Kontörlü Kart, one of several where it is usually free, although
services, 131. phonecards in Turkey upmarket business hotels
C O M M U N I C AT I O N S A N D M E D I A 387
to speak it fluently. TV and Radio

International players Satellite TV has blossomed
like DHL also have in Turkey, with dozens of
offices throughout Turkish and foreign channels
Turkey, but they competing for viewers.
charge a little more Widely available foreign news
for their services. channels include BBC World
Sending parcels News, Al Jazeera and CNN,
abroad with courier with English-language
companies is more entertainment provided by
expensive than the likes of CNBCE, E2, BBC
using the PTT, but Entertainment and MTV.
the service is more For foreign sports, look out
reliable and easier for Eurosport, Lig TV and
An Internet café in Istanbul to track. SporMax. Most hotels receive
global satellite television,
sometimes charge a fee. Most but check in advance
hotels also have fixed terminals Newspapers and of booking if you particularly
where you can check your emails. Magazines want foreign channels in your
A cheap way to make phone Three daily English-language room. Large flat-screen TVs
calls is by using VoIP (Voice over newspapers – Today’s Zaman are to be found in many
Internet Protocol). This system (www.todayszaman.com), Daily restaurants and bars, usually
lets you make phone calls Sabah (www.dailysabah.com) screening either local pop
anywhere in the world from and Hürriyet Daily News (www. music or Turkish football.
your own computer. The most hurriyetdailynews.com) – give The state-owned TRT (Türk
popular one is Skype. a roundup of Turkish and Radyo ve Televizyon) runs six
foreign news. They are available television channels and three
in cities with large expat radio stations. TRT2 television
Postal ServIces communities, such as Istanbul has news bulletins in English,
There are post offices (PTT) and Ankara, and in resort French and German at 7pm
in every city in Turkey and all towns, but harder to find in and 10pm. TRT3 radio (FM 88.2)
major towns and resorts. Letters provincial towns and cities. broadcasts news in English,
and postcards can be handed Today’s Zaman is liberal Islamic French and German throughout
over the counter at a post office in its outlook, Daily Sabah is the day (at 9am, noon, 5pm,
or mailed in letterboxes, which the mouthpiece of the AKP – 7pm and 9pm).
are yellow and labelled “PTT”. the leading political party in
A sign indicates which slot you government, while Hürriyet Daily DIRECTORY
should put your letter in: Şehiriçi News is nationalist and secular.
(local), Yurtiçi (domestic) and All papers can be read online. Mobile Phones
Yurtdışı (international). A range of foreign news- Avea
Surface post is slow, so it is best papers and magazines can Tel 444 15 00.
to use air mail (uçak ile) when be found in major tourist ∑ avea.com.tr
sending items abroad. Letters to resorts and cities. For listings in
Europe take around a week; allow Istanbul, try Time Out Istanbul Türkcell
Tel 444 05 32.
twice as long for mail to other or The Guide Istanbul.
∑ turkcell.com.tr
continents. A recorded delivery
service (called APS) is available Vodafone
from post offices, with delivery Tel (0542) 444 05 42.
in three days within Turkey. ∑ vodafone.com.tr
If you want to send a parcel
by surface mail, use registered Postal Services
(kayıtlı) post. To meet customs Aras Kargo
regulations, the contents of a Tel 444 25 52.
package must be inspected at ∑ araskargo.com.tr
the post office, so take tape to
DHL
seal your parcel at the counter. Tel 440 00 40.
Local courier companies such ∑ dhl.com.tr
as Yurtiçi Kargo and Aras Kargo
will deliver letters and parcels Post Office (PTT)
inland in a day or so at a ∑ ptt.gov.tr
comparable price, and they Yurtiçi Kargo
are much more efficient than Tel 444 99 99.
the PTT. Both have websites in Newspaper stand outside the ∑ yurticikargo.com
English, but don’t expect staff Topkapı Palace
388 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
The easiest way to get to Turkey is by air. resort destinations in the Aegean and
Turkish Airlines (THY) offers regular direct Mediterranean. In addition, it is possible
flights from many airports in Europe, North to reach Turkey overland, by coach
America and Asia. Several major European or train, or by ferry.
carriers, such as Lufthansa and KLM, also The country’s network of domestic flights
fly direct to Istanbul. Atatürk Airport, on is far-reaching, with Turkish Airlines and
the European side of the city, is still the several private operators linking Istanbul
most used Istanbul airport, but many and Ankara with many other Turkish
airlines, especially the budget ones, use destinations. Alternative internal travel
Sabiha Gökçen, on the Asian side of the options include a comprehensive intercity
city. There are also budget and charter coach network and a rapidly improving
flights from many European cities to rail network.
Green Travel international carriers also serve the date of which varies with
Although domestic flights the city, although not always the lunar calendar.
are tempting in terms of the with a direct flight.
time saved reaching far-flung In terms of budget airlines,
regions, Turkey’s wonderful easyJet and Anadolujet, a Airports
intercity bus network is a greener subsidiary of Turkish Airlines, Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport
and cheaper alternative – as connect the UK with Sabiha (Atatürk Hava Limanı) lies
is the rail network with its Gökçen Airport; the Turkish 25 km (16 miles) west of the
fast-growing number of high- carrier Pegasus Airlines flies city centre, in Yeşilköy. Its huge
speed services. into both Istanbul airports from international terminal (Dış
In most large Turkish cities the UK and several European Hatları) is a 15-minute walk
the main points of interest cities; while the German/Turkish from the domestic terminal
are often clustered together carrier Sunexpress serves (İç Hatları), linked by moving
in the historic centre, so try to Sabiha Gökçen from many walkways and corridors. The
reach them on foot. In Istanbul, northern European countries. international terminal has all
even the more remote sights Aegean and Mediterranean the facilities you would expect,
can usually be reached easily resorts, notably Antalya, Bodrum, including 24-hour banking, car-
enough by public transport. and Dalaman, are served by UK hire outlets, a tourist information
In Istanbul and many other charter airlines, such as Thomas office and a hotel-reservation
conurbations, buses use Cook and Thomson, as well as desk. Allow at least 2 hours
natural gas, as do most taxis. budget Turkish carriers, such as to check in for departures from
The weather in Turkey means the Sunexpress and Atlas Jet. busy Atatürk Airport.
it is very pleasant to spend May to October is peak Many domestic carriers, as well
time in the great outdoors, so season, but flights also fill up as international budget airlines,
environmentally aware visitors during school and religious use Sabiha Gökçen Airport.
may wish to consider a walking, holidays, including the annual Set in the suburbs on the Asian
trekking or cycling holiday. Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca, side of Istanbul, 32 km (20 miles)
Arriving by Air
Many visitors arrive at either
Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport, on
the European side of the city,
or at Sabiha Gökçen, on the
Asian side. For onward travel
within Turkey, you can change
to a domestic Turkish Airlines
(THY) flight or use one of the
several low-cost domestic
carriers (see Directory).
Most major European carriers,
including Lufthansa, KLM,
Austrian Airlines and British
Airways, have at least one daily
flight to Istanbul. American
Airlines, Qantas and other Planes parked at Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 389
southeast of the city centre, it is and Haydarpaşa, on the Asian DIRECTORY

less conveniently located but side, have been sidelined by the
smaller and easier to navigate Marmaray transport project. Trains Airports
than Atatürk Airport, with all arriving from Europe arrive at
Atatürk Airport
the usual facilities on offer. Halkalı, and trains heading into Tel (0212) 463 30 00.
Visitors flying to Ankara land Anatolia depart from Pendik. ∑ ataturkairport.com
at Esenboğa Airport, which is
located 28 km (17 miles) from Esenboğa Airport
the city centre. Arriving by Coach Tel (0312) 590 40 00.
∑ esenbogaairport.com
Buses operated by Havataş Two leading Turkish coach com-
shuttle passengers from both panies, Ulusoy and Varan, oper- Havaş
Istanbul airports to the city ate direct services from several Tel (0212) 465 47 00 or 56 56.
centre, while the same service is European cities to Istanbul, with ∑ havas.com.tr
provided by Havaş in Ankara tickets available online. Departure Havataş
and provincial cities (see p397). points for Ulusoy coaches include Tel 444 26 56. ∑ havatas.com
Munich and Frankfurt; Varan
coaches depart from Budapest, Sabiha Gökçen Airport
Domestic Air Travel Salzburg and Vienna. Tel (0216) 585 50 00.
∑ sgairport.com
Turkey is a vast country, and Coaches arrive at Esenler coach
flying is the most convenient (if station (see p391), 10 km (6 miles) Airlines
not the greenest) way to travel northwest of Istanbul city centre.
from Istanbul to eastern cities Esenler is also the main terminal Anadolujet
such as Erzurum, Trabzon and for domestic connections. Tel 444 25 38.
Van. Several carriers compete Coach companies usually ∑ anadolujet.com
on the same routes, so prices operate a courtesy minibus from Atlas Jet
are reasonable (from ¨100) if the terminal to the city centre. Tel 444 33 87.
booked early – between six and ∑ atlasjet.com
four weeks prior to departure.
Onur Air
Tickets are available online or
Tel 444 66 87.
from high-street travel agencies ∑ onurair.com.tr
at a slight premium.
It is possible to fly to several Pegasus Airlines
Turkish cities direct from both Tel 444 07 37.
Istanbul airports, as well as ∑ flypgs.com
from Ankara, İzmir and Antalya. Sunexpress
Flights between other cities Tel 444 07 97.
sometimes involve extended ∑ sunexpress.com
connection times in the hub Turkish Airlines (THY)
airports of Istanbul or Ankara. Tel 444 08 49.
Anadolujet and Sunexpress fly ∑ turkishairlines.com
from Istanbul’s Sabiha Gökçen.
Atlas Jet and Onur Air use A network of ferries links Turkey to Greece Arriving by Rail
Atatürk Airport, while Pegaus and Northern Cyprus
Airlines and Turkish Airlines European Rail Ltd
use both. Snacks and drinks Arriving by Sea ∑ raileurope.com
are extras on all carriers except Ferries run from various Greek The Man in Seat 61
Turkish Airlines, and the islands to Turkey. Routes include ∑ seat61.com
baggage weight limit for budget Samos to Kuşadası, Rhodes to
airlines is usually 15 kg (33 lb). Bodrum, Fethiye and Marmaris, Kos Arriving by Coach
to Bodrum, and Lesbos to Ayvalık, Ulusoy
though services are not always Tel 444 18 88. ∑ ulusoy.com.tr
Arriving by Rail reliable. Ferries and high-speed
The Orient Express (see p80) no catamarans (sea buses) also link Varan
longer travels to Istanbul. The Northern Cyprus to Turkey’s Tel 444 89 99. ∑ varan.com.tr
best overland route, which takes southern Mediterranean coast.
a couple of days, is from Munich The main cruise-ship docks in
Arriving by Sea
via Vienna, Budapest and Buch- the country are at the Karaköy Feribot
arest. Information on train travel terminal, in central Istanbul, ∑ feribot.net
can be obtained from The Man and at the Aegean resort of
in Seat 61, and bookings made Kuşadası, gateway to the
through European Rail Ltd. ancient city of Ephesus.
Istanbul’s two historic railway The Feribot website offers a
stations, Sirkeci Station, at the wealth of useful information
European side of the Bosphorus, on sea travel.
390 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Bus and Dolmuş seated next to someone of the

same sex, though this custom
Despite the proliferation of low-cost domestic flights in is often ignored in western
recent years, Turkey’s intercity bus service remains arguably Turkey. Consumption of alcohol
the best way to see the country. Travelling to a great number and smoking are forbidden on
of destinations, buses are comfortable and often luxurious. board (see p381). It is also worth
noting that intercity buses
In addition, bus travel is both cheaper and greener than air
do not have on-board toilets,
travel. There are also fewer hidden costs (for example, many hence the frequent rest stops.
provincial airports are way out of town, requiring a taxi
into the city centre), and a bus ticket purchased near the
Bus Tickets and Fares
departure date will likely be far cheaper than a last-minute
flight. For a more informal travelling experience, and over When travelling by bus, it is
advisable to book your tickets
shorter distances, a dolmuş (minibus) is the most cheerful,
well in advance, particularly
versatile and economical way to get around. on weekends and during any
school or religious holidays
(see p41), though on busy
routes with several departures
a day, you can usually just turn
up at the bus station and find
a seat. Bear in mind that certain
bus operators have “hustlers”
stationed at popular bus
stations whose job is to take
you to the ticket office of
the company they work for.
However, the bus company
might not necessarily operate
the most convenient departure
times for you, so don’t be
persuaded to buy a ticket until
you’ve seen what is available.
A modern, luxurious Kâmil Koç bus Larger towns and cities often
have several travel offices where
Bus Travel more expensive companies you can purchase tickets and,
The profusion of coach and offering personal screens and usually, get a free shuttle to the
long-distance bus companies headsets. Many companies also bus station. Several firms have
gives the impression that bus offer free Wi-Fi on board. Most facilities for online booking
travel in Turkey is a highly buses stop for 30 or 40 minutes and payment, with user-friendly
competitive business. In fact, every 4 hours or so, with a websites in Turkish and English.
the entire industry operates shorter facilities stop in Despite fuel costs in Turkey
on a franchise system: bus between. Everything from being among the highest in the
companies maintain relatively a glass of tea to a full Turkish world, bus travel here remains
uniform fares based on petrol meal is available at most stops, very good value compared
(gas) prices and the inflation and the quality of the food to most European countries.
rate. This system ensures that is surprisingly good, though As a rule, a ticket from a standard
bus operators share revenue. prices are usually a little bus company will cost about
The leading intercity coach higher than the average two-thirds of the price of an
firms are Kâmil Koç, Varan, high-street restaurant. early-booking budget-airline
Metro Turizm and Ulusoy. They Journeys of more than ticket for the same route.
all run regular schedules with 10 hours tend to be made
teams of well-trained drivers, overnight. As you move east-
comfortable vehicles and a wards in Turkey, the intercity
steward who comes around at bus network becomes a little
regular intervals to serve free sparser, but these buses are
hot or cold drinks and cakes or often just as comfortable.
biscuits. Free water is available Although vehicles have tinted
on request from the steward, windows and air conditioning,
who also supplies refreshing it is best to sit on the side of the
cologne. Some coaches are just bus facing away from the sun
three seats across, and all have in the hot summer months.
on-board entertainment, such It is convention for passen- Travel offices in Marmaris selling
as films or television, with the gers travelling alone to be long-distance bus tickets
Bus Stations
In most Turkish cities, the otogar
(bus station) is located well
away from the city centre.
Typically, bus companies
provide a free shuttle service
from several central pick-up
points to the otogar, and from
there to the city centre at
journey’s end. In Istanbul, coach
companies ferry passengers to
and from their own terminals
(close to the motorway) on
the Asian and European sides A dolmuş a typical Turkish mode of transport
of the city. In some cities, you
will need to take a public In most cities, dolmuş stops Dolmuş and Minibus
minibus or, in the case of are indicated by a rectangular Fares
Antalya and Konya, the tram. blue sign bearing a large “D” Payment on dolmuşes and
Istanbul’s main intercity on a white or red panel. minibuses is by Turkish lira
otogar, Esenler, is 10 km Destinations are shown on in cash. Tickets and electronic
(6 miles) northwest of the city. the front side of the vehicle, smart tickets are not accepted.
It’s a massive but rather drab but be aware that these relate Note that if you sit in the front,
affair, with more than 150 to districts rather than streets. you will be responsible for
companies vying for business. The best thing about passing fares and change to
There is also a bus terminal in travelling by dolmuş is that you and fro between the passengers
Harem, on the Asian side. Some can usually alight anywhere you and the driver. Fares are low,
buses departing from Esenler like. Simply say Müsait bir yer’de so be sure to carry small
stop at Harem before heading (“at the next convenient point”) change, as drivers get irate
into Anatolia, but if that’s where or İnecek var (“somebody wants if presented with a ¨50 note
you’re heading, boarding in to get off”). The increased for a ¨2 journey.
Harem could save you tedious volume of traffic in some cities Fares on minibuses are
time stuck in Istanbul’s means that dolmuşes are no cheaper pro-rata than intercity
notoriously congested traffic. longer allowed to pull in bus fares, but the vehicles are
All major and most minor wherever they like, though often cramped and crowded,
bus stations in Turkey have many still do. especially with villagers taking
toilet facilities, which charge Getting used to a city’s town-bought goods home.
a small fee, shops selling dolmuş system is not easy.
everything from lokum (Turkish In practice, this mode of DIRECTORY
delight) and bottled water to transport is most useful in
newspapers, and amenities tourist resorts, where the Bus Travel
such as shoeshines, drivers know where
Kâmil Koç
restaurants, cafés visitors want to go
Tel 444 05 62.
and even hairdressers. and locals speak ∑ kamilkoc.com.tr
Turkish bus stations enough English to
are generally safe offer their help. Metro Turizm
places to be, even Minibuses, also Tel 444 34 55.
at night, although confusingly referred ∑ metroturizm.com.tr
you should take Sign for a to as dolmuş by many Ulusoy
precautions dolmuş stop locals, serve smaller Tel 444 18 88.
against pickpockets. towns and villages, ∑ ulusoy.com.tr
usually departing from,
Varan
and returning to, a garage or
Dolmuş and Tel 444 89 99.
depot in a larger provincial ∑ varan.com.tr
Minibus Travel settlement. Unfortunately,
In Turkey, a dolmuş means many minibuses serving Bus Stations
two things: a shared taxi small towns in rural areas
that follows a fixed route and tend to cater to the needs Esenler
departs when full (see p396), of the villagers, departing Bayrampasa, Istanbul.
and a minibus, often cream- the town/village early in the Tel (0212) 658 05 05.
coloured (although in Istanbul morning and returning in Open 5am–midnight daily.
they are sometimes blue), that the late afternoon, which is Harem Station
follows fixed routes according usually not convenient to Istanbul. Tel (0216) 333 37 63.
to a schedule and is generally visitors planning a day trip Open 5am–midnight daily.
packed with passengers. in the country.
392 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Train and Ferry take the high-speed train from

Istanbul to Ankara, and then
Turkey’s once notoriously slow rail network is undergoing a connect with the old Anatolian
major overhaul. A high-speed line now links Ankara with rail network.
Konya and another links the capital to Istanbul, thus linking The most interesting routes
Turkey’s two major cities. More high-speed links are under for visitors are Ankara–Kars, on
the Armenian frontier, which
construction. In the meantime, the old rail network provides
is a journey of almost 40 hours;
a cheap and leisurely way to see the country. Most of Turkey’s and Ankara–Lake Van, which
boat traffic is centred on Istanbul’s busy waterways, and a takes 36 hours. Because of the
number of ferries and high-speed catamarans cross the formidable barrier created by
Sea of Marmara. the Taurus Mountains, which
separate Anatolia from the
Mediterranean, there is no
rail line along the southern
Aegean and Mediterranean
coasts. There are rail
networks, however, to the
southern Mediterranean city
of Adana from the Anatolian
cities of Ankara, Kayseri
and Konya. Another interesting
route is to take the train
from Bandirma (linked to
Istanbul by high speed
ferry) and travel to İzmir on
the Central Aegean coast.
Blue Trains (Mavi Trenler) are
faster than the standard
The busy Ankara train station, connecting major cities in Turkey Express trains (Ekspresler).
Train Travel since it is quite tricky to use
Turkey’s national railway the site successfully, it may be Sleepers, Seats
system is run by Turkish better to use one of the many and Service
State Railways (Türkiye travel agencies endorsed to Most trains offer comfortable
Cumhuriyeti Devlet sell train tickets. If you want two-berth sleeping cars
Demiryolları, or TCDD). The to purchase a sleeper ticket, (yataklı vagon). These have
standard train network is slow, you must do it from the station air conditioning and a basin;
but it is good value for money of departure, but note that soap, a towel and bedlinen
and relatively comfortable. you cannot book further ahead are provided. There are squat
The high speed trains(YHT) than two weeks. Credit cards toilets at either end of each
provide a viable alternative to are accepted at most intercity sleeping car, and an attendant
flying between Istanbul and train stations. who will expect a small tip.
the capital, Ankara. They also There are also four- or six-berth
link Ankara with the southwest couchettes, which are a little
Anatolian city of Konya. Rail Routes cheaper but less private
Rail trips can be booked via To explore Anatolia by rail, the since you will share the
the TCDD website. However, most logical way to begin is to compartment with other
A TCDD train travelling through the scenic Turkish countryside near Polatlı in Western Anatolia
passengers. On some DIRECTORY

routes bedlinen is
provided, while Train Travel
on others you will be
Turkish State Railways
expected to bring your
(TCDD)
own. Beds fold away
in the daytime. The Talat Paşa Bulvarı,
reclining Pullman seats 06330 Gar, Ankara.
are cheaper still, but for Tel (0312) 309 05 15 or 444 82 33.
rock-bottom prices you ∑ tcdd.gov.tr
can try an ordinary Online booking and
first- or second-class seat. information on rail routes,
Unless you are travelling timetables, services, fares,
as part of a group, authorized ticket agents,
however, a yataklı vagon discounts and contact details.
makes the most sense,
since it is the safest Rail Tours
option – sleeping
passengers make easy ∑ neredennereye.com
targets for thieves. A high-speed catamaran sailing on the Bosphorus Rail and ferry timetables and
Many trains have a booking information. Also covers
restaurant car (büfe) on fee for travel in sleeping bus and air travel. Five languages.
board serving decent food cars is not included. Cards
and drinks. In remote areas, can be purchased from most Ferries
few stations have much in stations, but note that pass
the way of facilities, so for holders will still need to Akgunler Denizcilik
long journeys it is wise to reserve their compartment Galeria Iş Merkezi Z/12,
stock up before boarding. in advance. Taşucu.
Tel (0324) 741 40 33.
Ferries ∑ akgunler.com.tr
Rail Tours High-speed catamaran (sea Ferries and sea buses between
Making your own rail-travel bus) and ferry services are Taşucu and Northern Cyprus.
bookings in Turkey can mostly limited to Istanbul
seem intimidating. However, and the Sea of Marmara. Fergün Denizcilik
there are several websites that Operated by the Istanbul Girne Yeni Liman Yolu,
take the language barrier out Seabus Company (IDO), ferries Fergün Apt 1, Girne,
of the equation. One such link the European and Asian Northern Cyprus.
site is www.neredennereye. sides of the city, and run up Tel (0392) 815 18 70.
com, which is useful for and down the Bosphorus. ∑ fergun.net
general travel and Sea buses also travel to the Sea buses between Alanya
booking information. Princes’ and Marmara Islands, and Northern Cyprus.
A rail package tour through and across the Sea of Marmara
the Anatolian interior to Güzelyalı (for Bursa), Yalova Istanbul Seabus
combines visits to the major (for İznik), Bandirma (for Company (IDO)
tourist sights with bus and Çanakkale and rail services to Kennedy Cad, Yenikapı
air travel to save time where İzmir and the Aegean coast) Hızlı Feribot İskelesi,
necessary. The most popular and Mudanya. Services are Fatih, Istanbul.
route is Ankara to Kars. For more frequent in the summer Tel 444 44 36.
more details on specialized (mid-June to early September) ∑ ido.com.tr
rail tours, see pp374–5. and at weekends. For Online booking and
If you are planning a longer schedules, routes and fares, information on schedules
trip to Turkey, consider a visit the IDO website.
and fares (English menu).
TCDD pass, which allows Car ferries make the short
30 days of unlimited rail travel. hop across the Dardanelles,
There are several different the strait joining the Sea of
options, but the best one is Marmara and the Aegean,
probably the sleeping-car useful if you are driving to
pass (¨550). A good option Troy from Istanbul.
for those on a budget is the There are also ferries and
Express Train Tour Card, which sea buses to Girne, in Northern
allows 30 days of unlimited Cyprus, from Taşucu, Alanya
travel on all standard trains and Mersin, and a thrice-
(except high-speed trains) for weekly service linking Mersin
¨210, though the reservation and Famagusta.
394 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Car and Bicycle

Most areas of Turkey can be reached quickly and efficiently
by road, with motorways and/or six-lane highways linking
most major centres. The drawbacks are the high cost of petrol
and the alarmingly high accident rate. In addition, Turkey is
a large country, and places that may appear close on a map
can take much longer than expected to reach, especially if
you venture off the beaten track. The major international
car-rental firms are widely represented in Turkey, and The forecourt of a petrol station selling
there are also many local (usually cheaper) companies. different types of fuel
Alternatively, you can bring your own vehicle or caravan.
more common in hire cars,
The rugged terrain and long distances make cycling
since it is much cheaper than
a strenuous way to see the country. However, cyclists petrol. Pay the extra for a diesel
are certain to encounter helpful, friendly people during vehicle if you plan to drive a
their journey. lot. Credit cards are accepted
without commission (see p384).
Rules of the Road

When in Turkey, you must drive
on the right, give way at
junctions to traffic from the
right, and wear a seatbelt.
Distances are shown in
kilometres, and road signs
conform to the international
standard. The police often stop
cars to check identification;
showing a passport or driving
licence will usually suffice.
Look out for pedestrians,
animals, tractors and vehicles
without lights. Don’t assume
The Bosphorus Bridge, one of two major road bridges in Istanbul that you have the right of way.
Drivers making a left turn may
Car Rental Bringing your veer to the right and wait for
To rent a car, you need to own Vehicle traffic to pass. Turkish drivers
present an international driving If you drive your own vehicle often reverse on the motorway’s
licence and your passport. into Turkey, you will need a valid hard shoulder if they have
To avoid having to pay a large driving licence and a Green overshot their exit. On all major
deposit, use a credit card. Drivers Card to denote international motor ways and the Bosphorus
must be over 18 years of age. insurance coverage. Documents Bridge, you will pay a fee, usually
Be sure to read the small such as proof of purchase or taking a ticket at the entry point
print on the rental contract; chassis number are not needed and paying as you exit. Many
insurance cover usually but can be useful. Cars can be toll motorways only accept pre-
excludes windscreen and tyre brought into Turkey for a six- paid KGS (Kreditli Geçiş Systemi)
damage, or even theft. Keep month period. The car’s details smart cards – the larger hire
your vehicle’s documents will be entered in your passport car outlets should have
(rhusat) with you at all times so you cannot leave without it. them available and they are
and do not leave them mandatory if you hire a vehicle at
unattended in the car. Most one of the two Istanbul airports.
international companies hire Fuel Parking is a major problem
out vehicles with full tanks; many Petrol (gas) is sold in leaded in the cities. Street parking is
local firms with empty tanks. octanes of normal and super, possible, but in central areas
You return them the same way. and as unleaded (kurşunsuz). there will be a charge. In open
The easiest place to hire a car Many local vehicles run on car parks, it is customary to
is at your arrival airport, but all otogaz (liquid petroleum gas), leave your keys with the
major cities and most resorts which is cheaper than regular attendants so they can move
will have several car-hire outlets. petrol, but few hire cars have your car if needed. Towaway
Most hotels can also arrange been converted to this form zones are indicated by a sign
car rental for you. of fuel. Diesel (dizel) is becoming showing a breakdown van.
Emergencies areas. Finding your way on

If you have an accident, call unmarked routes will likely be
the police. Note that moving your greatest challenge here.
your vehicle is a crime and Travel agents and tour
may negate your insurance. operators can arrange cycling
Heavy city traffic can slow the tours. The adventure company
progress of ambulances, which Bougainville (see p375) offers
tend to arrive less quickly mountain-biking tours, both on
than the police. Blood-group the Western Mediterranean
details are displayed on Turks’ coast and in Cappadocia, Middle
driving licences; in case of Earth Travel (see p375) is also a
a serious accident, this is good option in Cappadocia.
a sensible precaution.
On secondary roads, local DIRECTORY
people are usually very helpful Cycling is a fun and eco-friendly way to
if you break down or have a flat travel around Turkey Car Rental
tyre. On the motorway around
Avis
Istanbul, emergency telephones associated with car travel in
Central reservations
every few kilometres connect Turkey are magnified for
Tel 444 28 47 or (0216) 587 99 99.
you to the police. A firm called motorcyclists, so ride carefully. ∑ avis.com.tr
Tur Assist handles recovery Most resorts in Turkey have Atatürk Airport
services. The Touring and several outlets for motorcycle Tel (0212) 465 34 55.
Automobile Association of and scooter hire. Sabiha Gökçen Airport
Turkey (TTOK), known simply You can bring your own Tel (0216) 585 51 54.
as Turing, can provide detailed bicycle into Turkey without any
advice on driving in Turkey, customs formalities. It is wise to Europcar
transit documents and bring extra inner tubes and any Central reservations
assistance with breakdowns, spares that may be necessary, Tel (0216) 427 04 27.
∑ europcar.com.tr
accidents and insurance. Your particularly for a long-distance
Atatürk Airport
consulate or embassy (see p381) cycle tour, though most major
Tel (0212) 465 62 84.
can also be helpful in the event towns have bike repair shops.
Topcu Cad 1, Taksim
of a minor emergency. It is also possible to rent bicycles,
Tel (0212) 254 77 10.
especially in coastal resorts and
in Cappadocia (see Directory). Hertz
Repairs Central reservations
Most towns have a designated Tel (0216) 349 30 40.
sanayi area (industrial zone) or a Getting Around Atatürk Airport
specialized oto sanayi (automotive Road maps of Turkey are often Tel (0212) 465 59 99.
repair zone) to handle repairs. For inadequate, making it difficult to Sabiha Gökçen Airport
punctures, look out for otolastikci find your way on country roads Tel (0216) 588 01 41.
∑ hertz.com.tr
(tyre repairer) signs at roadside or to out-of-the-way places.
establishments that are often Route signage is also poor, so
Emergencies
little more than huts. it is wise to purchase a
If you bring your own good map in your Touring and Automobile
vehicle, check whether home country prior to Association of Turkey
spares for your model are travelling. Rural roads (TTOK)
available in Turkey. make for great adven- I Oto Sanayi Sitesi Yanı, IV Levent,
tures, but the potholes Istanbul.
can be a hazard. In Tel (0212) 282 81 40.
Motorcyling addition, Turkish drivers ∑ turing.org.tr
and Cycling may show very little Tur Assist
Motorcycle enthusiasts consideration for cyclists. ∑ turassist.com
usually ride overland Villagers are generally
through Europe to Turkey, Roadside very helpful, but the Cycle Hire
or take a ferry from Greece emergency language barrier may
(see p389). Outside major telephone prove insurmountable. Argeus Travel
conurbations, Turkey’s big, Mediterranean and İstiklal Cad 47, Ürgüp.
open spaces and relatively Aegean coastal areas are the best Tel (0384) 341 46 88.
traffic-free roads are major for cycling, with exhilarating ∑ argeus.com.tr
attractions for bikers. opportunities for freewheeling. Mithra Travel
The same regulations that Cappadocia is less well known Hesapçi Sokak, Kaleiçi, Antalya.
apply to bringing a car into the for cycling, but it has accessible Tel (0242) 248 77 47.
country (see opposite) are valid off-road trails and tracks, and the ∑ mithratravel.com
for motorbikes. The risks terrain is flatter than on coastal
396 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Istanbul Dolmuşes

In Istanbul, dolmuşes (see p391)
The central areas of the city are well served by Metro and tram run throughout the day until
lines. Buses and dolmuşes provide city-wide transport, but mid-evening, and later on busy
roads and vehicles are very crowded at rush hour. Ferries and routes. Points of origin and final
water taxis ply the Bosphorus and, to a lesser extent, the destinations are displayed in the
front windows. Fares generally
Golden Horn. The ambitious Marmaray Project has overhauled range between ¨3 and ¨6.
the transport infrastructure of Istanbul. The underwater tunnel The most useful dolmuş
has created more than 70 km (43 miles) of suburban rail line routes to the average visitor to
under the Bosphorus and links the European and Asian sides Istanbul are on the Asian side
of the city. Trains arriving from Europe arrive at Halkalı, and of the Bosphorus. From Taksim,
destinations include Aksaray,
trains heading into Anatolia depart from Pendik. Both of these
Beşiktaş, Kadıköy, Topkapı and
Istanbul suburbs will be linked to the city centre by metro. Yedikule (for the Theodosian
Walls). Vehicles depart from
places off the beaten track, seek the Taksim end of Tarlabaşı
local advice, take extra care and Bulvarı and where İsmet Inönü
avoid walking in unfamiliar Caddesi exits Taksim.
areas after dark.
Taxis
Taxis are ubiquitous in Istanbul.
Operating day and night, they
can be hailed in the street or
found at taxi ranks. Hotel and
restaurant staff can also phone
for a taxi. Fares are cheap in
comparison to other major
European cities.
Cabs are bright yellow, with A dolmuş at a stop in Istanbul
Visitors strolling in front of the Blue Mosque the word taksi on a sign on
(see pp82–3) the roof. They take up to four Guided Tours
passengers, and the fare is Several operators run special-
Walking charged according to a meter. interest tours of Istanbul, as well
The creation of semi- If you cross the Bosphorus as general guided tours of the
pedestrianized areas, such Bridge, the toll will be added city and further afield. Big Bus
as İstiklâl Caddesi and central to the fare. Unless they have offers two open-top bus tours of
Sultanahmet, and walking/ helped with your luggage, the city, starting from the square
jogging paths along sections drivers will not expect a tip; in front of the Haghia Sophia in
of the Sea of Marmara and simply round up the fare to Sultanahmet. The City Tour red
the Bosphorus, has made it the nearest convenient figure. route includes the major old city
possible to walk with ease Most taxi drivers speak little sights, crosses the Golden Horn
around some parts of Istanbul. or no English. They may not to Taksim, then heads across to
Quieter backwaters, like Eyüp be familiar with routes to Asia. The Golden Horn blue route
(see p124) and parts of Fatih lesser-known sights either, concentrates on the old city
(see p119), Fener and Balat, have so carry a map and have the sights. Reliable companies that
relatively little traffic, making name of your destination organize city tours, including
them attractive destinations written down. walking tours, are Backpackers
for a stroll.
Wherever you walk, bear
in mind that traffic only stops
at pedestrian crossings
controlled by lights. On main
roads, always use pedestrian
overpasses and underpasses.
Istanbul, like any large city,
has some unsavoury areas that
are best avoided. The Tarlabaşı
neighbourhood of Beyoğlu has
a bad reputation, as do the
parts around the Theodosian
Walls. If you plan to walk in A bright-yellow taxi on the streets of Istanbul
Travel, Fest Travel and Turista

Travel. For more companies
providing trips outside Istanbul,
see pp372–5.
If you are approached by
individuals offering their services
as tour guides, ask to see their Airport shuttle bus bearing the Havaş logo
photo ID first, then tell them
clearly what you want to see and you can purchase tokens (jeton) For travellers on a budget, the
agree a fee. If you do not wish to valid for most forms of Istanbul cheapest option from Atatürk
travel by public transport, you transport from Jetonmatik Airport is to take the light railway
can negotiate a private tour with automatic vending machines to Zeytinburnu, then change
a taxi driver. This is best arranged near many tranpsort stops. to the tram for Sultanahmet.
through your hotel. However, you pay around a For Taksim, continue to Kabataş,
third more for each journey from where you can ride the
than if you use the Istanbulkart. funicular up to Taksim. From
Travel Pass Sabiha Gökçen, take the E10
Although you may see locals bus to Kadıköy, then a Turyol
using a metal token mounted in Buses ferry (see p399) across
a plastic holder, these have now Innercity buses are run by two the Bosphorus to Eminönü.
been phased out and replaced companies. I.E.T.T. (Istanbul
by a credit-card style travel pass Omnibus Company) operates DIRECTORY
known as an Istanbulkart. The buses and environmentally
card is valid on the tram and friendly green ones (yeşil motor), Guided Tours
metro systems, funiculars, while Özel Halk (a subsidiary of
Backpackers Travel
suburban railway, all ferries and I.E.T.T.) has mainly green and light-
Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi 22,
most city buses. Available blue-and-green buses. Both
Sultanahmet, Istanbul.
outside Sabiha Gökçen Airport, accept the Istanbulkart and
Map 5 D4.
at the Havalimani (airport) stop jeton, but cash payment is not
Tel (0212) 638 63 43.
on the light railway linking permitted. If you cross either of
∑ backpackerstravel.net
Atatürk Airport with the centre, the Bosphorus bridges, expect
and at many public transport to pay double fare. Big Bus City Istanbul
offices across the city, the card You queue and enter at the Aya Sofya Karşısı.
costs a refundable ¨10, which front of the bus and exit by the Tel (0212) 283 13 96.
includes ¨4 of credit. Load it up middle or rear doors. Push ∑ bigbustours.com
at the point of purchase at a the button above the door or
machine or kiosk and keep it attached to the support poles to Fest Travel
topped up using the automatic alert the driver that you wish Barbaros Bulvarı 44/20,
machines outside major transport to alight at the next stop. A list Beşiktaş, Istanbul.
stops. Swipe the card across the of stops is displayed on a board Map 2 C3.
screen at the turnstile machines on the side of the bus or on a Tel (0212) 216 10 36.
at the entrance to the platforms video screen. Bus shelters also ∑ festtravel.com.tr
for the tram, metro, suburban have details of routes and stops. Turista Travel
railway, funiculars and ferries, Most buses run from 6am until Divanyolu Cad 16, Sultanahmet,
or next to the driver on buses. 10 or 11pm. Istanbul. Map 5 D4.
Metrobuses run in dedicated Tel (0212) 518 65 70.
lanes, but the routes are of ∑ turistatravel.com
Travel Tokens little interest to the vast
If you are not planning to use majority of visitors. Buses
public transport very frequently
I.E.T.T.
Airport Transfers Tel (0800) 211 60 68 or
Useful Bus Routes A Havataş shuttle bus runs (0212) 245 07 20.
12 Kadıköy – Üsküdar between Atatürk Airport and ∑ iett.gov.tr
22 Kabataş – Istinye Taksim via Aksaray (for Sultan-
Özel Halk
25/A Levent Metro – Rumeli ahmet) from 4am to 1am daily.
Tel 444 18 71.
Kavağı The trip takes 30–40 minutes and
∑ iett.gov.tr
28 Edirenekapı – Beşiktaş costs ¨10. There is also a Havataş
28/T Topkapı – Beşiktaş bus from Sabiha Gökçen to Taksim,
Airport Transfers
36/E Eminönü – Edirnekapı from 3:30am to 1am, which takes
40 Taksim – Sariyer about an hour and costs ¨14. Havataş
80T Taksim – Yedikule Taxis charge about ¨40 to Taksim Tel (0212) 465 56 56.
830 Otogar – Taksim from Atatürk Airport and about ∑ havatas.com
¨95 from Sabiha Gökçen.
398 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Atatürk Airport, take the M1

metro to Zeytinburnu, then
change to the T1 tram.
Alternatively, continue on the
M1 metro to Yenikapı then take
a taxi. For Galata, Beyoğlu and
Taksim, take the M1 metro to
Yenikapı, then the M2 metro
across the Golden Horn to the
Şişhane or Taksim stops. To
cross to Asia from the old
city or Sultanahmet, use the
A tram on Istanbul’s modern tramway system Marmaray metro line, which
runs through a tunnel under
Tramway tramway. To access the platform the Bosphorus. To use the
Istanbul’s tramway system is swipe the Istanbulkart or push metro, either purchase tokens
modern and efficient, if very the token into a slot. Trams (jeton) for ¨4 from jetonmatik
crowded at peak times. Most are frequent, running every machines near the stations,
useful for visitors is the T1 line, 5 minutes from 6am to 11:50pm. or use the Istanbulkart travel
which runs from Zeytinburnu, The Nostalgic Tram (Nostaljik pass (see p397).
where it connects with the M1 Tramvay) trundles along İstiklâl
metro coming in from Atatürk Caddesi from Tünel to Taksim
Airport, through Aksaray and Square. The trams are the Cable Cars and Funiculars
Sultanahmet. It then crosses original early 20th-century A cable car running from 8am
the Galata Bridge to Kabataş. vehicles, taken out of service to 10pm daily connects the
Trams travel on the right-hand in 1966 but revived in 1989. shores of the Golden Horn in
side of the street, so be sure to Eyüp with the Eyüp cemetery
stand on the correct platform. and tea gardens. There is also
To board a tram, buy a flat-fare Metro a cable car in Maçka Park,
token (jeton) from the machine Istanbul has several metro open from 8am to 8pm daily.
(jetonmatik) near the platform. lines that are useful for visitors. Inaugurated in 1875, the Tünel
Tokens cost ¨4. The Istanbulkart To get to the old city centre is an underground railway
is also accepted on the (Sultanahmet and around) from climbing steeply from Karaköy
Hacıosman
Tram and Metro Key
Route Map IV Levent
Metro
Line under construction
Levent
Suburban rail
Line under construction Gayrettepe
Tramway
Nostalgic Tram Şişli-
Mecidiyeköy
Funicular
Mescidi Selam Osmanbey
Kartaltepe
Otogar
Demirkapı
Kirazlı
Sağmalcılar
Sehitlik s
Esenler ru
Taksim p ho
Terazidere
Edirnekapı G o
ld B os
en Kabataş
Bayrampaşa- Şişhane
Maltepe
Ho
Fındıklı Üsküdar
Topkapı-
rn
Vatan Ulubatli Tünel

Haliç Tophane
Davutpaşa Y.T.Ü. Fetihkapı Karaköy
Emniyet- Kartal
Fatih Eminönü
Ayrılık Çeşmesi
Topkapı Sirkeci
Aksaray Vezneciler
Merter Fındıkzade
Cevizlibağ
A.Ö.Y.
Bağcılar Yusufpaşa Laleli
Merkez Efendi
Yenikapı
Aksemsettin
Mithatpaşa Kadıköy
Zeytinburnu
Airport Kazliçeşme
Sea of Mar mara
station, which is set back Company (İDO). Their interiors slightly more expensive,
from the road just off the resemble aircraft cabins, but the departures are much
Galata Bridge, to Tünel with long rows of reclining more frequent. These only go
Square in Beyoğlu. Here, seats, piped music and air halfway up the strait and
it connects with the Nostalgic conditioning. Sea buses are do not stop on the way. You
Tram on İstiklâl Caddesi. A considerably faster and more can also book a private cruise
token for the Tünel costs ¨4. comfortable than ferries, but with a company such as
The Tünel closes at 10pm. they cost about three times Hatsail Tourism. For more
A modern funicular, open as much. The most useful route on the Bosphorus cruise,
from 6am to midnight, links is the one to the Princes’ Islands see pp130–31.
Taksim Square with the ferry (6–12 crossings daily).
terminal at Kabataş (¨4). There are 27 designated
docks for water taxis across The Marmaray Project
the city. To get a water taxi, The biggest change to Istanbul’s
Ferries, Sea Buses, either call a company such transport infrastructure in
Private Boats and as Deniz Taksi or book online. recent years was the opening
Water Taxis of the Bosphorus tunnel in late
A great number of ferries 2013, linking the European
(vapur) cross the Bosphorus and Buying Boat Tickets and Asian sides of the city
the Golden Horn. They are run For ferries and sea buses, by metro. When the project
by Sehir Hatları (City buy a flat-fare token is completed in 2018, the
Lines). The main ferry (jeton) from the booth at European and the Asian rail will
terminus on the the pier. A ferry ticket be directly joined for the first
European side is at costs ¨4, while the time in history. In the meantime,
Eminönü. Destinations sea bus to the Princes’ thousands of commuters in
include Haydarpaşa, Islands is ¨9. You can Istanbul will be spared the
Kadıköy and Üsküdar use jetons for all local 20 minutes travel by ferry
on the Asian shore. Sign for trips. Better still, use the across the Bosphorus Strait.
On the west side of the the Metro Istanbulkart (see p397),
Galata Bridge is the pier which works out cheaper
for ferries sailing up the and makes boarding quicker. DIRECTORY
Golden Horn. You cannot use the Istanbulkart
Another main terminus is for the Bosphorus trip; tickets Tramway
Karaköy, situated opposite cost ¨20. Istanbul Transportation Co
Eminönü; and from here To enter the pier, put the jeton Tel (0212) 568 99 70 or 444 00 88.
ferries run to Haydarpaşa into the slot beside the turnstile, ∑ istanbul-ulasim.com.tr
and Kadıköy. The international and then wait in the boarding
dock, where cruise liners hall for a boat. Ferries, Sea Buses,
berth, is also located here. Private Boats and
There are ferries every Water Taxis
15 minutes or so from Eminönü The Bosphorus Cruise
Dentur
to Kadıköy between 7am and Istanbul Şehir Hatları runs daily Tel (0212) 258 93 14 or
9pm, and from Eminönü to excursions up the Bosphorus. (0216) 444 63 36.
Üsküdar from 6am to 11:30pm. They are very popular in the ∑ denturavrasya.com
Comprehensive timetables are summer, especially at week-
available online or from ticket ends, so arrive early to ensure Istanbul Sea Bus Company
booths at each ferry terminal. that you get a deck seat with a Tel (0212) 444 44 36.
∑ ido.com.tr
A number of craft run by view. The long Bosphorus Cruise
private companies such as costs ¨25 and is a 7-hour round Şehir Hatları (City Lines)
Dentur and Turyol cross the trip. Light refreshments are Tel 444 18 51.
Bosphorus and Golden Horn served, with a lunch stop at ∑ sehirhatlari.com.tr
at various points and run up the fishing village of Anadolu Turyol
the Bosphorus. These routes Kavağı. There is also a 2-hour Tel (0212) 251 44 21.
are also served by City Lines version, going as far as the ∑ turyol.com
ferries, but private motor- second Bosphorus bridge,
boats are more frequent, costing ¨10, but there The Bosphorus Cruise
though slightly more are no stops.
expensive. Note that all Alternatives to the official Hatsail Tourism
Tel (0212) 241 62 50/51.
motorboats accept only Bosphorus trip include the
∑ hatsail.com
the Istanbulkart or tokens. small private boats that also
The modern, Swedish-built depart from Eminönü, just
catamarans known as sea west of the Galata Bridge. They
buses (deniz otobüsleri) are offer the equivalent of Şehir
run by the Istanbul Sea Bus Hatları’s short cruise and are
400 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer Akdamar Island (Lake Van) 304, Ankara and Western Anatolia (cont.)
to main entries. 307, 318 getting around 243
Aksaray (Archelais) 296–7 hotels 336–7
A Alacahöyük (Hittite site) 48, 281, map 242–3
Abana 269 282, 298 restaurants 356–8
Abas I, King of Armenia 319 Aladağlar Mountains 293 sights at a glance 242
Abbasid Caliph 78 Alaeddin I Keykubad 29, 230, 254 Antakya (Antioch) 56, 209, 213,
Abdalonymos, King of Sidon 76 Alanya 57, 230 238–9
Abdül Aziz, Sultan 75, 125 hotels 335 Crusades 231, 238
bedroom (Dolmabahçe Palace, restaurants 353 hotels 335
Istanbul) 127 Alanya International Triathlon 369 maps 238
Beylerbeyi Palace (Istanbul) Alexander the Great 50–51, 52 restaurants 354
132 Alexander Sarcophagus 51, 76 siege of 231
Sile lighthouse 163 Bodrum 198, 199 Antalya (Attaleia) 15, 56, 209, 211,
tomb of 95 Gordion 251 222–3
Abdül Hamit I, Sultan 32 İskenderun 237 film festival 40, 368, 369
Abdül Hamit II, Sultan 61, 129 Kaunos 214 hotels 335
Beylerbeyi Palace (Istanbul) 132 Kütahya 262 map 223
tomb of 95 Milas 197 restaurants 354
Yıldız Palace (Istanbul) 125 Phaselis 221 Antioch see Antakya
Abdül Mecid I, Sultan 72, 88 Priene 194 Antiocheia-in-Pisidia (Eğirdir) 15,
Ablutions fountains see Fountains Temple of Apollo (Didyma) 195 52, 258
Abraham 37, 40, 305, 312 Termessos 224 Antiochus I Epiphanes, King 310
Accidents, road 395 Alexander Sarcophagus 51, 76 Antiques, shopping for 108–9,
Accommodation 326–39 Alexius I Comnenus, Emperor 164 248, 363
Adana 212, 234–5 Alibey Peninsula 179 Antonius Pius, Emperor 53
hotels 335 Alp Arslan, Sultan 56 ANZAC Day 38
map 235 Altar of Zeus (Bergama) 181 Aphrodisias 20, 175, 192–3
restaurants 353 Altınkum 196 Apple Mountain (Ankara) 250
Adıyaman 308 Altıntepe (Urartian site) 323 Apricot Bazaar (Malatya) 308, 309
Admission fees 380 Amasra (Sesamus) 265, 266, 268 Aqueducts
see also Tickets restaurants 358 Aqueduct of Valens (Istanbul) 55
Adrassan, hotels 335 Amasya 281, 282, 302–3 Aspendos 225
Adventure holidays 372–3, 375 hotels 338 Side 229
Aegean region 174–207, 378–9 map 303 Aquila, Gaius Julius 186
climate 42 restaurants 359 Arabesque designs (ceramics) 32,
getting around 177 Ambulances 383 165
hotels 333–4 Anadolu Kavağı 66, 131 Arabesque music 371
itineraries 10, 13 Anamur 230 Ararat, Mount 153, 305, 319
map 176–7 Anatolia Arcadius, Emperor 53
restaurants 350–53 history 20, 28, 45–57, 61 Arch of Domitian (Hierapolis) 190
sights at a glance 176 itineraries 11, 15 Archaeology museums see
A Week on the Aegean Coast Museum of Anatolian Museums and galleries
13 Civilizations (Ankara) 241, Architecture
Aezani (Çavdarhisar) 261 246–7 Byzantine 54, 83, 86–7
Afyon 242, 260 see also Ankara and Western Ottoman 28–9, 34–5, 79, 254
hotels 336 Anatolia; Cappadocia and Seljuk 241, 293, 299
restaurants 356 Central Anatolia; Eastern Aristotle 179
Agora (İzmir) 183 Anatolia Armenian community 21
Ağrı, Mount (Ararat) 153, 305, Anatolian lynx 26, 224 Artemision 184
319 Anemurium 230 Artvin 279
Ahmet I, Sultan Ani 320–21 events 39
Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 83, 84, Anitta, King 48 restaurants 358
92 Ankara 241, 242, 244–51 Asansör (İzmir) 183
tomb of 84 events 369 Askerlik (military service) 31
Ahmet III, Sultan 60 history 61, 62 Aslankaya 261
fountain (Istanbul) 35, 71, 78 hotels 336–7 Aslantaş 261
library (Topkapı Palace, map 244–5 Aslantaş Dam 236
Istanbul) 73 restaurants 356 Aslantepe (Malatya) 308
Air travel 388–9 Ankara and Western Anatolia Aspendos 15, 225
Airlines 388, 389 240–63 events 39, 368, 369
Airport transfers 389, 397 Ankara 241, 242, 244–51 Association of Small Hotels 327,
Airports 388, 389 climate 42 329
GENERAL INDEX 401
Assos (Behram Kale) 13, 179 Basil II, Emperor 56, 89 Black Sea region 264–79
hotels 333 Basilica Cistern (Istanbul) 12, 85, climate 43
restaurants 350, 351 90 getting around 267
Assyrians 20, 47, 49, 295, 300 Baths see Turkish baths hotels 337–8
Atakule (Ankara) 249 Bayburt 277 map 266–7
Atatürk 21, 22, 61, 62–3, 268 Bayram throne (Topkapı Palace, restaurants 358–9
bedroom (Dolmabahçe Palace, Istanbul) 75 sights at a glance 266
Istanbul) 127 Bazaar Quarter (Istanbul) Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 12, 21, 67,
commemoration events 38, 40, 98–109 82–3, 84, 92–3
41 hotels 331 Blue Seminary (Amasya) 283,
death of 40, 63, 127 maps 99, 100–101 303
mausoleum (Ankara) 22, 240, restaurants 346–7 “Blue Voyage” gulet cruises 210,
241, 248, 249 sights at a glance 99 373
museum (Alanya) 230 Bazaars see Markets and bazaars Boats see Ferries; Yachts
museum (Samsun) 269 Beaches 373 Bodrum (Halicarnassus) 10, 13,
Presidential Palace (Ankara) 249 Altınkum 196 175, 177, 198–201
statue (İskenderun) 237 Anatalya 222 events 40
villa (Diyarbakır) 315 Ölu Deniz 208, 216–17 hotels 333
villa (Trabzon) 275 Princes’ Islands 162 map 199
Atatürk Airport (Istanbul) 388, Turtle Beach (Dalyan) 215 restaurants 351
389, 397 Behram Kale (Assos) 13, 179 Bodrum Hamam 198, 376, 377
Atatürk Boulevard (Ankara) 249 hotels 333 Bodrum Peninsula tour 202–3
Atatürk Dam (Kâhta) 25, 308 restaurants 350, 351 Boğazkale (Hittite site) 48, 281,
Atatürk Farm and Zoo (Ankara) Belediye (town hall, Bursa) 169 282, 300–301
249 Belek restaurants 359
Atatürk Villa (Diyarbakır) 315 golf 228 Bolu 250
Atatürk’s Villa (Trabzon) 275 hotels 335 hotels 337
ATMs 384 Belisırma, restaurants 360 Bookshops 107, 135
Attaleia see Antalya Belly dancing 137, 368, 371 Bor 293
Attalus II, King of Pergamum 222 Bençik 207 Boris III, King of Bulgaria 80
Attalus III, King of Pergamum 52, Bergama (Pergamum) 13, 50, 175, Bosphorus Bridge (Istanbul) 132
180 176, 180–81 Bosphorus Trip 130–31, 399
Augustus, Emperor 52, 244 hotels 333 Bossert, H.T. 236
“Auspicious Event” 61 map 180–81 Brassware 31, 135, 363
Autumn in Turkey 40 restaurants 351 Breakdowns, vehicle 395
Avanos (Venessa) 15, 287, 364 Bey Han (Bursa) 168 British War Cemetery (Istanbul)
events 39 Beyazıt I, Sultan 133, 299 129
Ayasoluk Hill (Selçuk) 184 Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque (Bursa) Bronze Age 46, 47, 246, 247
Ayder Plateau, hotels 337, 377 166 Kültepe 47, 295
Aydın (Caesarea) 185 Beyazıt II, Sultan 74, 158, 303 shipwrecks (Castle of St Peter,
events 41 Beyazıt II Mosque (Edirne) 158 Bodrum) 201
Ayvalık 174, 179 Çeşme 184 Bünyan 292
hotels 333 Koza Han (Bursa) 169 Bureaux de change 384
restaurants 351 Beyazıt Square (Istanbul) 106 Burgaz Harbour (Princes’ Islands)
Beyazıt Tower (Istanbul) 106 155
B Beykoz 131 Burgazada (Princes’ Islands) 162
Bafa, Lake 13, 196 Beyoğlu (Istanbul) 110–15 Bursa 157, 166–71
Baghdad Pavilion (Topkapı hotels 331 hotels 332
Palace, Istanbul) 73 maps 111, 112–13 map 167, 168–9
Bagratid kings of Armenia 320 restaurants 347–8 Market Area 168–9
Balkan Wars 61 sights at a glance 111 restaurants 349–50
Balyan, Karabet 126 Beyşehir 258 spas 376
Balyan, Nikoğos 126, 132 restaurants 356 Bürüciye Medresesi (Sivas) 299
Banks 384 Birds Bus travel 390–91, 397
opening hours 380 of Anatolia 27 Butterfly Valley 210, 217
Bar Street (Marmaris) 204 Bird Paradise National Park 156, Büyük Taş Hanı (Istanbul) 106
Barbarossa, Frederick (Holy 163 Büyük Yenı Han (Istanbul) 107
Roman Emperor) 231, 232 Bosphorus 133 Büyükada (Princes’ Islands) 162
Barbarossa, Hayreddin (Admiral) Eğirdir 258 Byzantine Architecture 54, 83,
59, 60 Göksu Delta 232, 374 86–7
Bargaining 134, 328, 362, 367 Lake Köyceğiz 214 Byzantine Empire 20, 44, 54–7
Basil the Great, St 294 Soğanlı 292 Byzantine Great Palace (Istanbul)
Basil I, Emperor 56, 96, 97 Sultansazlığı Bird Sanctuary 293 84, 91, 94, 96–7
402 GENERAL INDEX
Byzantine mosaics and frescoes Castles and fortifications (cont.) Churches

67, 122–3 Fortress (Kütahya) 262 Ani Cathedral 321
see also Frescoes; Mosaics Fortress of Asia (Istanbul) 131, Armenian (Yusufeli) 279
132–3 Barbara Church (Göreme Open-
C Fortress of Europe (Istanbul) Air Museum) 289
Caferağa Courtyard (Istanbul) 70, 130, 133 Basilica of St John (Selçuk) 184
79 Fortress of Seven Towers Byzantine church architecture
Calchas of Argos 224 (Istanbul) 120 54
Calligraphy 32–3, 79, 115, 133, Genoese Castle (Anadolu Constantine and Helen
166, 184 Kavağı) 66, 131 (Mustafapaşa) 292
Camekan (entrance hall, Turkish Genoese Fort (Kuşadası) 185 Elmalı Church (Göreme Open-
baths) 80, 81 Genoese Fortress (Foça) 179 Air Museum) 289
Camel caravans 28 Genoese fortresses (Amasra) Eski Gümüş Monastery Church
Camel tours 288 268 (Niğde) 293
Camel wrestling 41, 185, 368 Hemşin Valley 278 Fish Church (Zelve) 286
Çamlıhemşin 278 Infidel’s Castle (near Haymana) Georgian (Yusufeli) 279
restaurants 358 251 Grape Church (Zelve) 286
Çamlık 184 Karatepe 236 Greek Orthodox Patriarchate
Çamlık National Park 298 Kastamonu 268 (Istanbul) 118–19
Camping 329 Kızkalesi 212, 232–3 Haghia Eirene (Istanbul) 71,
Çanakkale 13, 178 Mamaris Castle 150–51, 204, 78
events 38, 39 205 Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 21,
hotels 333 Mamure Castle 230, 231 55, 67, 83, 85, 86–9
restaurants 350 Red Tower (Alanya) 230 Haghia Sophia (İznik) 164
Canakkale Destanı Tanıtım Şanlıurfa Citadel 306, 312 Haghia Sophia (Trabzon) 153,
Merkezi (Gallipoli Peninsula) Tophane Citadel (Bursa) 170 265, 267, 274
172 Trabzon Castle 265, 274 Holy Cross (Akdamar Island,
Çankaya area (Ankara) 249 Velvet Castle (İzmir) 183 Lake Van) 304, 318
Canyoning 372, 375 see also City walls; Palaces Karanlık Church (Göreme Open-
Cappadocia and Central Anatolia Çatalhöyük 46, 242, 258 Air Museum) 289
15, 19, 153, 280–303 Cathedral, Ani 321 Pammakaristos (Istanbul) 118
climate 43 Catherine the Great, Empress of Panaghia (Istanbul) 113
getting around 283 Russia 61 Redeemer (Ani) 321
hotels 338–9 Çavdarhisar (Aezani) 261 rock-cut churches 15, 281, 288,
map 282–3 Cave, Damlataş (Alanya) 230 296
restaurants 359–60 Çavuştepe (Urartian site) 318 St Anne’s Church (Trabzon) 274
sights at a glance 282 Çayeli, restaurants 358 St Eugenius Church (Trabzon)
Cappadocia Grape Harvest Çekirge (Bursa) 171 275
Festival (Ürgüp) 40 Çelebi, Evliya 158 St George, Greek Orthodox
Car hire 394, 395 Çelik Palas Hotel (Bursa) 171 Patriarchate (Istanbul) 119
Caravanning 329 Cemeteries, War 129, 155, 156, St Gregory of Abugramentz
Caria, Kingdom of 175, 197, 198 172 (Ani) 320
Carpets and kilims 31, 366–7 Ceramics St John of Studius (Istanbul) 54,
Bazaar Quarter (Istanbul) 107, Amphora Exhibit (Castle of St 120
109 Peter, Bodrum) 200 St Mary Draperis (Istanbul) 112
Bünyan 292 Avanos 287 St Peter’s Grotto (Antakya) 238
Carpet Museum (Istanbul) Çanakkale 135, 178 St Polycarp Church (İzmir) 182
90–91 Kütahya 135, 262 St Saviour in Chora (Istanbul)
Malatya 309 shopping for 134–5, 364 12, 67, 117, 122–3
Milas 197 Topkapı Palace 74 SS Sergius and Bacchus
shopping for 134, 135, 363, see also İznik ceramics and tiles (Istanbul) 54, 96–7
366 Çeşme 184 St Stephen of the Bulgars
Çarşi Hamamı (Adana) 235 hotels 333 (Istanbul) 118
Cartography, Ottoman 59 restaurants 351–2 Tokalı Church (Göreme Open-
Castles and fortifications Çeşme (public fountains) see Air Museum) 288
Ayasoluk Hill (Selçuk) 184 Fountains Yılanlı Church (Göreme Open-
Bayburt Castle 277 Children 21 Air Museum) 289
Castle of St Peter (Bodrum) 152, attractions for 137, 249, 369 see also Monasteries
177, 200–201 in hotels 328 Çiçek Pasajı (Istanbul) 113
Castle of St Peter (Çeşme) 184 National Sovereignty and Cide 269
Citadel (Amasya) 302 Children’s Day 38, 41 Cinci Hamamı (Safranbolu) 272
Citadel (Ani) 320 Christianity 53, 97, 186, 195, 209, Cinci Hanı (Safranbolu) 29, 272
Citadel (Ankara) 248 286 Cinema 23, 38, 40, 137, 368, 369
Citadel (Boğazkale) 301 Nicene Creed 164 Çingene (gypsy music) 371
Citadel (Erzurum) 322 Christie, Agatha 80, 112, Çıralı 14, 221
Citadel (Kayseri) 294 114 Circumcision ritual (sünnet) 30
GENERAL INDEX 403
Cirit games (Erzurum) 40 Çorum (Niconia) 298–9 Dilek Peninsula National Park
Cistern of 1,001 Columns Hittite festival 39 185
(Istanbul) 94–5 Crafts 31 Dionysius 198
City walls Dumlupınar Fair 263 Discos 368
Alanya 230 Grand Bazaar (Istanbul) 109 Diving 201, 216, 218, 373, 375
Amasra 268 Istanbul Crafts Centre 85, 90 Divriği 323
Ani 321 İzmir 182 Diyarbakır 305, 314–15
Antalya 222 Kastamonu 268 events 40
Bergama 180 shopping for 134, 135, 363, hotels 339
Bodrum 198, 199 364–5 map 315
Boğazkale 301 see also Markets and bazaars restaurants 360
Diyarbakır 315 Credit cards and debit cards 384 Doğubayazıt 153, 305, 306, 319
İznik (Nicaea) 164 in hotels 328 hotels 339
Kaunos 214 in restaurants 341 Dolmabahçe Palace (Istanbul) 60,
Side 229 in shops 362 67, 116, 117, 126–7, 130
Theodosian Walls (Istanbul) 12, Crimean Memorial Cemetery Dolmuş (minibus) travel 391, 396
55, 117, 120–21 (Istanbul) 129 Domes
Tophane 170 Crimean War 61, 129 Atik Valide Mosque (Istanbul)
Cleopatra 181 Croesus, King 49 128
Climate 42–3 Cruises, Bosphorus 130–31, Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 93
Climbing 293, 372, 375 399 Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 87, 89,
Coach travel 389, 390–91 Crusades 54, 56–7, 164, 184, 160
Çobanisa 258 231, 238 İlyas Bey Mosque (Miletus) 195
Columns and obelisks Çubuk Dam 250 Prince’s Mosque (Istanbul) 103
Burnt Column (Istanbul) 95 Cumalıkızık 163 Sabancı Central Mosque
Cistern of 1,001 Columns Cunda Island (Adana) 234
(Istanbul) 94–5 hotels 334 Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 160–
Column of Constantine restaurants 352 61
Porphyrogenitus (Istanbul) Currency 362, 380, 385 St Saviour in Chora (Istanbul)
94 Customs regulations 380, 381 122
Column of Julian (Ankara) 244 Customs and traditions 380–81 Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul)
Constantine’s Column (Istanbul) Cycling 395 105
95 Cyprus 63, 233, 237 Domestic flights 389
Egyptian Obelisk (Istanbul) 94, Don John of Austria 59
95 D Döner Gazino (Kütahya) 262
Serpentine Column (Istanbul) Dalyan 14, 214–15 Dorylaeum see Eskişehir
94, 95 hotels 335 Dress
Committee for Unity and restaurants 354 etiquette 380, 381
Progress (“Young Turks”) 61 Damlataş Cave (Alanya) 230 traditional 30, 31, 63, 74, 371
Communications and media Dance 136–7, 368, 370–71 Drinks see Food and drink
386–7 ballet 39, 225, 368, 369 Driving 394–5
Complex of Valide Sultan belly dancing 137, 368, 371 Dumlupınar, Battle of 39, 260, 262
Mihrişah (Istanbul) 124 folk dancing 23, 31, 136–7, 369 Dumlupınar Fair 263
Conquest of Istanbul 38, 58, 60, Whirling Dervishes 41, 66, 112,
121 114, 252–3, 259 E
Constantine I, Emperor 53 Darius I 194 Earthquakes 24, 25, 190, 215, 320,
Byzantine Great Palace Darius III 50–51, 237 323
(Istanbul) 96 Datça 207 Eastern Anatolia 304–23
Constantine’s Column (Istanbul) hotels 334 climate 43
95 Datça Peninsula Tour 206–7 getting around 307
Council of Nicaea 164 Davraz Ski Centre 258, 372 hotels 339
Hippodrome (Istanbul) 94 Davut Ağa 107 map 306–7
Constantine IX Monomachus, Deësis Mosaics restaurants 360–61
Emperor 44, 55, 87 Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 89 sights at a glance 306
Constantinople 53, 54–5 St Saviour in Chora (Istanbul) Eastern Mediterranean coast see
fall of 38, 58, 60, 121 123 Mediterranean Turkey
see also Istanbul Demre (Myra) 219, 220 Eceabat, restaurants 350
Consulates 112, 381 events 41 Ecevit, Bülent 63
Conu, Helmut 129 Denizli 193 Economic reforms 23, 63
Copper Age 46 restaurants 352 Edessa (Şanlıurfa) 56, 231, 305,
Copperware 31, 135, 363, 364 Derinkuyu 15, 285, 286 306, 312
Çorlulu Ali Paşa Courtyard Dervishes see Whirling Dervishes hotels 339
(Istanbul) 107 Deyr-az-Zaferan (Mardin) 313 restaurants 361
Coronation Square (Haghia Dialling codes 386 Edirne 154, 158–61
Sophia, Istanbul) 87, 88 Didyma (Didim) 13, 195 events 39, 155, 368
Çoruh Valley 279 restaurants 352 hotels 332
404 GENERAL INDEX
Edirne (cont.) Festivals and holidays 38–41, Friedrich I, Holy Roman Emperor
map 159 136, 368, 369 (Frederick Barbarossa) 231, 232
restaurants 350 Fethiye 14, 216 Fuel 394
Edremit, restaurants 352 hotels 335 Funicular (Istanbul) 124, 398–9
Eğirdir 258 restaurants 354
restaurants 356 Fidan Han (Bursa) 169 G
Eğirdir, Lake 15, 242, 258 Films 23, 38, 40, 137, 368, 369 Gagik I, King of Armenia 320
Egyptian Bazaar (Istanbul) 98, 99, Finike 14, 221 Galata Bridge (Istanbul) 8–9, 103,
102 Flora and fauna 26–7 324–5
map 100–101 Foça (Phocaea) 179 Galata Tower (Istanbul) 12, 111,
Ehmedek 230 restaurants 352 114
Elaiussa Sebaste 233 Food and drink 340–61 Galen (physician) 180
Electricity 381 Flavours of Turkey 342–3 Gallipoli Campaign 62, 173
Embassies 381 local delicacies 365 ANZAC Day 38
Emergencies mezes (appetizers) 340, 341, 344 war memorials 38, 129, 152,
emergency numbers 383 shopping for 135 155, 172–3, 374
personal security and health tours 374, 375 Gallipoli National Historic Park
382–3 Turkish tea 278, 345 172–3
on the road 395 Watermelons 40, 314 Gallipoli Peninsula 13, 155, 156,
Emigration 23 What to Drink in Turkey 345 172–3
Eminönü (Istanbul) 101 see also Restaurants GAP (Southeast Anatolian
English (Lion) Tower (Bodrum) Football 368 Project) 25, 305, 308
201 Fortresses see Castles and Gardens see Parks and gardens
Entertainment 136–7, 368–71 fortifications Gas, natural 221
Ephesus 13, 20, 175, 186–7 Forum of Theodosius (Istanbul) Gate of Hercules (Ephesus) 187
Erciyes, Mount 282, 285, 292 106 Gay and lesbian travellers 380
Erzincan 323 Fountains 34, 35, 36, 37 Gaziantep 305, 311
Erzurum 56, 305, 322–3 Ahmet III (Istanbul) 35, 71, 78 hotels 339
Cirit games 40 Beykoz Fountain 131 restaurants 361
hotels 339 Blue Mosque, Istanbul 93 Gedik Ahmet Paşa 107
map 322 Executioner’s Fountain (Topkapı Gedik Paşa Hamamı 107
restaurants 361 Palace, Istanbul) 71 Gelibolu, restaurants 350
Esenboğa Airport (Ankara) 389 Great Mosque, Bursa 168 Geology 24–5
Esenler coach/bus station 389, Haghia Sophia, Istanbul 87 rock formations (Cappadocia)
391 Haymana Fountain 251 281, 284–5
Eski Malatya 309 Kaiser Wilhelm II (Istanbul) 94 Geothermal springs see Spas and
Eskişehir (Dorylaeum) 261 Marble Fountain (Grand Bazaar, hot springs
events 38 Istanbul) 108 Glassware
hotels 337 Mevlâna Museum, Konya 256 Castle of St Peter (Bodrum)
restaurants 356–7 Nymphaeum and Vespasian 200
Ethnography museums see (Side) 229 shopping for 135, 365
Museums and galleries Selimiye Mosque, Edirne 160 Topkapı Palace (Istanbul) 74
Etiquette 380–81 Swan Fountain (Dolmabahçe Göbeklı Tepe 312
Eumenes I, King of Pergamum Palace, Istanbul) 126 Göcek 215
180 Zoodochus Pege (Istanbul) 121 hotels 335–6
Eumenes II, King of Pergamum France, colonisation 209, 234, restaurants 354
180, 190 238, 239 Gods, Roman 52–3
Euphrates, River 25, 45, 305, 323 French War Cemetery (Gallipoli) Gökalp, Ziya 162, 314
Euromos 13, 196 156, 172 Göksu Delta 232, 374
European Union 23, 63 Frescoes Göl Türkbükü 203
Events, calendar of 38–41 Barbara Church (Göreme Open- Gölbaşi Lake 250
Air Museum) 289 restaurants 357
F Elmalı Church (Göreme Open- Golden Horn (Istanbul) 12, 103
Fabrics, shopping for 134, 135, Air Museum) 289 Golden Orange Film Festival
168, 230, 363, 365 Eski Gümüş Monastery Church (Antalya) 40, 368, 369
“Fairy chimneys” rock formations (Niğde) 293 Golf 228, 373, 375
(Cappadocia) 281, 284, 286 Haghia Sophia (Trebzon) 274 Gordian Knot 51, 251
Fasıl music 136, 369, 371 Holy Cross (Akdamar Island, Gordion 251
Fatih Büfe (Istanbul) 70 Lake Van) 318 Göreme 15, 287, 290–91
Fellows, Charles 214, 218, 220 Karanlık Church (Göreme Open- hotels 338
Ferries 157, 177, 233, 389, 393 Air Museum) 289 restaurants 360
Bosphorus Trip 130–31, 399 St Saviour in Chora (Istanbul) Göreme Open Air Museum 15,
Eminönü terminal (Istanbul) 122–3 288–9
101 Sumela Monastery 276 Grand Bazaar (Istanbul) 12, 95, 99,
Istanbul 393, 399 Tokalı Church (Göreme Open- 108–9
Fertile Crescent 45 Air Museum) 288 map 108–9
GENERAL INDEX 405
Grease-wrestling Championship Hans and kervansarays (cont.) Historic buildings (cont.)

(Edirne) 39, 155, 158, 368, 369 Tire 185 House of Mary (Meryemana)
Great Lord’s Seminary (Amasya) Valide Han (Istanbul) 107 186
302 Zincirli Han (Istanbul) 109 Hüsnü Züber House (Bursa) 170
Great Palace (Istanbul) 84, 91, 94, Hararet (intermediate room, Kütahya Manor Houses 263
96–7 Turkish baths) 80, 81 Latifoğlu House (Tokat) 299
Greece, exchange of ethnic Harbiye 239 Leander’s Tower (Istanbul) 128
population with 62, 216, 292 Harem (Topkapı Palace, Istanbul) Madımağin Celal’ın House
“Greek Fire” 55 68, 72, 75 (Tokat) 299
Greek Orthodox community 21 Harpagus, General 214 Mevlevi Lodge (Istanbul) 112,
Greek Orthodox Patriarchate Harpy Tomb (Xanthos) 51 114
(Istanbul) 118–19 Harran 312 Ottoman houses (Konya) 254
Greek Orthodox School of Hasan, Mount 285, 296–7 Pera Palace Hotel (Istanbul) 80,
Theology (Heybeliada) 162 Hasan Paşa Hanı (Diyarbakır) 314 112, 114
Green Tomb (Bursa) 166 Hatay Province 209, 238 Pierre Loti Café (Istanbul) 124
Green travel 381, 388 Hattuşaş see Boğazkale Selimiye Barracks (Istanbul) 129
Gregory, St 88 Hattuşaş National Park 283, 300– Sirkeci Station (Istanbul) 80
Guided tours (Istanbul) 396–7 301 Sublime Porte (Istanbul) 70, 79
Gülets see Yachts Hattushili III, King 48 Zağnos Tower (Trabzon) 274
Güllük 197 Havuzlu Lokanta (Istanbul) 108 see also Castles and
Güllük Dağ National Park 224 Havza thermal springs 269 fortifications; Churches;
Gümüşhane 277 Haydarpaşa Station (Istanbul) Memorials and monuments;
Gümüşlük (Myndos) 202 129, 389 Museums and galleries; Palaces
Güpgüpoğlu Stately Home Haymana Hot Springs 250–51 Historical and cultural tours 374,
(Kayseri) 294 Hazeranlar Mansion (Amasya) 375
Güzelyurt 280, 296 302 History 44–63
restaurants 360 Health 382–3 Hitler, Adolf 248
Health Museum (Edirne) 158 Hittite civilization 20, 48–9, 241,
H insurance 383 300
Hacı Bektaş 34, 261, 297 therapeutic spas 376–7 Adana Museum 234
Commemorative Ceremony Heavenly Seminary (Sivas) 299 Alacahöyük 298
(Avanos) 39 Helen of Troy 47 Aslantepe 308
museum 297 Hellenistic Age 20, 50–51 Boğazkale 300–301
tomb of 297 Hemşin Valley 278–9 Dündartepe 269
Hacılar 46 Herakleia 196 İkiztepe 269
Hadrian, Emperor 53, 158, 221 Herbs, shopping for 135, 362, Kalehöyük 297
Hadrian’s Gate (Antalya) 223 363, 365 Karatepe 236
Temple of Hadrian (Ephesus) Herodotus 198 Kemerhisar 293
187 Heroon (Bergama) 181 Mount Erciyes 285
Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 21, 67, Heybeliada (Princes’ Islands) 162 Sphinx Relief (Ankara) 247
83, 85, 86–9 Hıdırlık Tower (Antalya) 223 Treaty of Kadesh 77
floorplan 88 Hierapolis (Aegean region) 13, Yazılıkaya 298, 300, 301
historical plan 86 175, 190–91 Hittite Festival (Çorum) 39
mosaics 55 Hierapolis (Castabala) 237 Holiday villages 326
Haghia Sophia (Trabzon) 153, Hieroglyphics 236 Homer 47, 178
265, 267, 274 Hippodamus of Miletus 194 Honorius, Emperor 53
Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca) 37, 237 Hippodrome (Istanbul) 12, 83, 84, Hopa 279
Halicarnassus see Bodrum 94, 95 restaurants 358
Halikarnas Club (Bodrum) 198 Hisarlık (site of ancient Troy) 178 Horse racing 137, 368–9
Hall of the Campaign Pages Historic buildings Horse riding 373, 375
(Topkapı Palace, Istanbul) 74 Basilica Cistern (Istanbul) 12, 85, Hospitals 383
Hamamayaği 377 90 Hostel World 328, 329
Hamams see Turkish baths Beyazıt Tower (Istanbul) 106 Hostels 328
Handicrafts see Crafts Cistern of 1,001 Columns Hot springs see Spas and hot
Hans and kervansarays 28–9, 57 (Istanbul) 94–5 springs
Ankara 245 Galata Tower (Istanbul) 12, 111, Hotels 326–39
Bursa 168–9 114 Aegean 333–4
Büyük Taş Hanı (Istanbul) 106 Greek Revival Houses Ankara and Western Anatolia
Büyük Yenı Han (Istanbul) 107 (Marmaris) 204 336–7
Cinci Hanı (Safranbolu) 29, 272 Güpgüpoğlu Stately Home Black Sea 337–8
Kızlarağaşi Han (İzmir) 29, 182 (Kayseri) 294 booking 328
Mylasa 29 Haydarpaşa Station (Istanbul) budget hotels 327
Sarıhan 287 129 Cappadocia and Central
Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul) Hazeranlar Mansion (Amasya) Anatolia 338–9
104 302 checking out and paying 328
Sultanhanı (Askaray) 29 Hıdırlık Tower (Antalya) 223 children in 328
406 GENERAL INDEX
Hotels (cont.) Istanbul (cont.)

Eastern Anatolia 339 Beyoğlu (Istanbul) 110–15 J
holiday villages 326 climate 42 Jandarma 382, 383
hotel-based sports 373 entertainment 136–7, 368, 369 Janissaries 59, 60, 61, 94, 133
Istanbul 330–32 events 38, 39, 40, 41, 368, 369 Mehter Band 124, 126, 371
luxury hotels 326 Further Afield 116–33 Jansen, Hermann 241
Mediterranean Turkey 335–6 getting around 396–9 Jazz 39, 136, 137, 368
prices and discounts 328 history 60–61 Jewellery
spa hotels 376, 377 hotels 330–32 shopping for 109, 134, 135, 363,
Special Class hotels 326 map 66–7 364
Thrace and the Sea of Marmara restaurants 346–9 Spoonmaker’s diamond
332 Seraglio Point 68–80 (Topkapı Palace, Istanbul) 75
House of Mary (Meryemana) 186 shopping 134–5 Jews 118, 237
Houses, Ottoman 35, 79, 254, Street Finder maps 138–49 John the Baptist, St 75
272–3, 299 Sultanahmet 82–97 John the Evangelist, St 184, 186
Hüdai 377 transport map see Back John II Comnenus, Emperor 89
Hüsnü Züber House (Bursa) 170 endpaper Julian, Emperor 244
Huzziya, King 48 Two Days in Istanbul 12 Justin II, Emperor 162
see also Constantinople Justinian, Emperor 54–5
I Istanbul Biennial (festival) 40, 368, Basilica of St John (Selçuk) 184
Iasus 197 369 Byzantine Great Palace
İbrahim Müteferrika 107 Istanbul Crafts Centre 85, 90 (Istanbul) 96
İbrahim Paşa 90, 91, 103 Istanbul International Music Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 86
İç Bedestan (Grand Bazaar, Festival 39, 368, 369 SS Sergius and Bacchus
Istanbul) 109 Istanbul Jazz Festival 39, 136 (Istanbul) 96–7
İçel see Mersin Istanbul Şehir Hatları 130, 399 Justinianopolis (Sivrihisar) 260
İçmeler 205 İstiklâl Caddesi (Istanbul) 18, 112–
Ihlara Valley 15, 296 13 K
İkiztepe 296 tram 110, 398, 399 Kaaba (Mecca) 37, 58, 75, 96
Ilgaz Mountain National Park İzmir (Smyrna) 62, 175, 182–3 Kaçkar Mountains National Park
269 events 39, 41 278
Ilıca mud baths 215 hotels 334 Kadesh, Treaty of 77
Imperial Porcelain Factory map 182–3 Kadıkalesi 202
(Istanbul) 125 restaurants 352 Kafkasör Culture and Arts Festival
İnebolu 269 İzmit earthquake (1999) 24 (Artvin) 39, 279
Inoculations 383 İznik ceramics and tiles 74, 155, Kahramanmaraş 309
İnönü, İsmet 248, 308 164, 165 restaurants 361
Insects 383 Atik Valide Mosque (Istanbul) Kâhta 308
Insurance 383 128 hotels 339
International Bodrum Cup Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 12, 84, Kale (Simena) 14, 220
Regatta 40 92, 165 Kalehöyük 297
International Film Festival Cezri Kasım Paşa Mosque Kalkan 14, 218
(Istanbul) 38 (Eyüp) 121 hotels 336
International İzmir Festival 39 Fatih Mosque (Istanbul) 119 restaurants 354–5
International Opera and Ballet Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque Kalkanı Mountains 277
Festival (Aspendos) 39 (Istanbul) 121 Kalpakçılar Başı Caddesi (Istanbul)
Internet access 327, 386–7 Green Mosque (Bursa) 166–7 109
Ionian League 179, 194 Green Mosque (İznik) 33, 164 Kanlıdivane 233
Ionian Renaissance 49 Mausoleum of Selim II (Istanbul) Karaalioğlu Park (Antalya) 223
Irene, Empress 89, 119 87 Karacasu, restaurants 352
İshak Paşa Sarayı (near Mosque of Selim I (Istanbul) 119 Karagöl-Sahara National Park
Doğubeyazıt) 319 Muradiye Mosque (Bursa) 170 279
İskenderun 237 Muradiye Mosque (Edirne) 159 Karagöz shadow puppet theatre
Islam 21 New Mosque (Istanbul) 102 30, 155, 166, 167, 168
beliefs and practices 30, 37 Palace of the Porphyrogenitus Karatepe 236
Exploring mosques 36–7 (Istanbul) 121 121 Karlowitz, Treaty of 60
Muslim holidays 40 Prince’s Mosque (Istanbul) 103 Kars 305, 306, 319
Ramazan (Ramadan) 18, 37, 40 Rüstem Paşa Mosque (Istanbul) hotels 339
Islamic art 32–3 100, 102 restaurants 361
Isparta shopping for 135 Kartalkaya 250
hotels 337 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque Kaş 14, 218
restaurants 357 (Istanbul) 96 hotels 336
Issus, Battle of 50–51, 237 Topkapı Palace (Istanbul) 74 restaurants 355
Istanbul 19, 64–149 İznik (Nicaea) 56, 164 Kaş-Lycia Culture and Art Festival
airports 388, 389, 397 hotels 332 (Kaş) 39, 218
Bazaar Quarter 98–109 restaurants 350 Kasaba 269
GENERAL INDEX 407
Kastamonu 268–9 Kuşadası 13, 175, 185 Madımağin Celal’ın House (Tokat)
restaurants 358 hotels 334 299
Kaunos 14, 214 restaurants 353 Magazines 136, 368, 387
Kavaklinddere area (Ankara) Kütahya 241, 262–3 Mahmut I, Sultan 80, 88, 115
249 hotels 337 Mahmut II, Sultan 61, 74, 115,
Kayaköy 14, 216 map 263 129
restaurants 355 restaurants 357–8 tomb of 95
Kaymaklı 286, 287 tiles and cermics 262 Malatya 308–9
Kayseri 281, 282, 294–5 restaurants 361
hotels 338 L Malik Şah, Sultan 57, 314
map 295 Labarna Hattushili I, King 48 Malls, shopping 134, 135, 362,
restaurants 360 Labour and Solidarity Day 380
KDV see Value-added tax (VAT) (national holiday) 41 Ma’mun globe (Istanbul) 78
Kebab houses 340 Labranda 196–7 Mamure Castle 230, 231
Keçibükü 207 Lagina 197 Manavgat River 229
Kekova Island 14, 220 Lake District 258 Manuel VII Palaeologus, Emperor
Kemaliye (Eğin) 323 Lakes see by name 274
Kemer, hotels 336 Landscape 24–5 Manuscripts
Kemerhisar 293 Languages Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 256
Kervansarays see Hans and Hittite 48, 236 Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul)
kervansarays Turkish 21, 62, 381 104
Kılıç Arslan II, Sultan 56, 254 Latifoğlu House (Tokat) 299 Sumela Monastery 276
Kılıç Kalkan (spoon dance) 371 Latmos, Mount 196 Manzikert, Battle of 56
Kilims see Carpets and kilims Lausanne, Treaty of 62 Maps
Kınalıada (Princes’ Islands) 162 Leander’s Tower (Istanbul) 128 Adana 235
King’s Gate (Boğazkale) 283, Leather goods, shopping for Aegean region 176–7
301 134, 135, 365 Amasya 303
Kırkpınar Festival (Edirne) 39, Lelegians 202, 203 Ani 320–21
155, 158, 368, 369 Leo VI (the Wise), Emperor 88 Ankara 244–5
Kırşehir 297 Lepanto, Battle of 59 Ankara and Western Anatolia
restaurants 360 Letoön 216, 218 242–3
Kızılcahamam 250, 376 Libraries Antakya 238
Kızkalesi 212, 232–3 Ahmet III (Topkapı Palace, Antalya 223
Kızlarağaşi Han (İzmir) 29, 182 Istanbul) 73 Bergama (Pergamum) 180–81
Knidos 206 Celsus (Ephesus) 20, 186 Black Sea region 266–7
Knights of St John 152, 175, 184, Library Ruins (Bergama) 181 Bodrum 199
199, 200, 231 Mahmut I (Haghia Sophia, Bodrum Peninsula tour 202–3
Knights Templar 231 Istanbul) 88 Boğazkale 300–301
Koca Sinan Paşa’s tomb 107 Lighthouses 97, 128, 163, 223 Bosphorus Trip 130–31
Konak Clock Tower (İzmir) 182 Listings magazines 136, 368, Bursa 167
Konaks (mansion houses) 35, 387 Byzantine Empire 54–5
272–3, 281, 303 Loge (hünkar mahfili) 37 Cappadocia and Central
Konya 15, 56, 57, 241, 254–7 Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 92 Anatolia 282–3
events 41 Green Mosque (Bursa) 166 Climate of Turkey 42–3
fairground 254 Sultan’s Loge (Selimiye Mosque, Datça Peninsula Tour 206–7
hotels 337 Edirne) 161 Diyarbakır 315
map 254–5 Loggerhead turtles 214, 215 Eastern Anatolia 306–7
restaurants 357 Lost property 382 Eastern Mediterranean coast
Köprülü Cayı National Park 224 Louis II, King of Hungary 59 212–13
Koran, the 32, 36, 37, 259 Lucius Verus, Emperor 53 Edirne 159
Korean War 63, 248 Luke, St 238, 276 Ephesus 186–7
Kösedağ 57 Lycia 20, 49, 52, 209, 217 Erzurum 322
Köyceğiz 214 Sarcophagus (Xanthos) 51 Europe 17
Koza Han (Bursa) 169 tombs 51, 209, 216, 218, 219, Gallipoli Peninsula 172–3
Küçükkuyu Adatepe Köyü, 226–7 Hierapolis 190–91
restaurants 353 Lycian League 218, 221 Istanbul: At a glance 66–7
Külliye (mosque complex) 36, 195 Lycian Way (walking route) 210, Istanbul: Bazaar Quarter 99
Kültepe 47, 295 217, 220, 372 Istanbul: Beyoğlu 111
Kümbet 261 Lydians 49 Istanbul: Egyptian Bazaar 100–
Kurban Bayramı (Feast of the Lysimachus 164, 186 101
Sacrifice) 40 Istanbul: First Courtyard of
Kurds 62–3, 233, 305 M Topkapı 70–71
Kürsü (throne in mosque) 37 Maçahel, hotels 337 Istanbul: Further Afield 117
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi Maçka, restaurants 358 Istanbul: Grand Bazaar 108–9
(Istanbul) 100 Macunlar Mansion (Safranbolu) Istanbul: Haghia Sophia 86
Kuş Gölü lake 163 273 Istanbul: İstiklâl Caddesi 112–13
408 GENERAL INDEX
Maps (cont.) Marmaris 150–51, 175, 204–5 Mehmet II (the Conqueror)

Istanbul: Seraglio Point 69 events 38, 40 (cont.)
Istanbul: Street Finder 138–49 hotels 334 Great Mosque (Kütahya) 263
Istanbul: Sultanahmet 83 map 205 Theodosian Walls (Istanbul) 121
Istanbul: Sultanahmet Square Marmaris International Yachting Tire evacuation 185
84–5 Festival 38 tomb of 119
Istanbul: tram and metro routes Martyrium of St Philip (Hierapolis) Topkapı Palace (Istanbul) 72, 74
398 191 Mehmet III, Sultan 87
Istanbul: transport map see Mary, Virgin 186, 374 Mehmet V, Sultan 61
Back Endpaper Mausoleums 36 Mehmet Ağa 92
İzmir 182–3 Atatürk (Ankara) 22, 240, 241, Mehmet Tahir Ağa
Kayseri 295 248, 249 Fatih Mosque (Istanbul) 119
Konya 254–5 Gümüşkesen Mausoleum Tulip Mosque (Istanbul) 106
Kütahya 263 (Milas) 197 Mehmetçik Memorial (Gallipoli
Marmaris 205 Gümüşkesen (Milas) 197 Peninsula) 173
Safranbolu 272–3 Halicarnassus (Bodrum) 175, Mehter Band 124, 126, 371
Side 229 198, 199 Mellaart, James 258
Thrace and the Sea of Marmara Mehmet III (Haghia Sophia, Memorials and monuments
156–7 Istanbul) 87 Atatürk Mausoleum (Ankara)
Trabzon 275 Murat II (Bursa) 170 22, 240, 241, 248, 249
Turkey 10–11, 16–17, 152–3 Murat III (Haghia Sophia, Atatürk Memorial Statue
Western Mediterranean coast Istanbul) 87 (İskenderun) 237
210–11 Selim II (Haghia Sophia, Constantine’s Column (Istanbul)
Marcus Aurelius, Emperor 53, Istanbul) 33, 87 95
183, 221 see also Memorials and Dumlupınar Monument
Mardin 313 monuments; Tombs (Kütahya) 262
hotels 339 Mausolus, King of Caria 175, 198, Gallipoli Peninsula 172–3
restaurants 361 199, 202, 214 Hippodrome (Istanbul) 94
Mark Anthony 181 Mavi boncuk (blue bead) 30 Mehmetçik Memorial (Gallipoli
Market Street (Safronbolu) Measurements 363 Peninsula) 173
273 Mecca 37, 58, 75, 96 Mount Nemrut 310, 316–17
Markets and bazaars 134–5, Mecidiye Mosque (Ortaköy) 132 Vespasian Monument (Side)
362 Media 387 211, 229
Adana Covered Bazaar 235 Medical tourism 376–7 see also Columns and obelisks;
Ankara 245 Medical treatment 383 Mausoleums; Tombs
Antakya Bazaar 239 Mediterranean Turkey 208–39 Menderes River Valley 176,
Apricot Bazaar (Malatya) 308, climate 43 185
309 Eastern Mediterranean coast Menteşe clans 214
Bazaar Quarter (Istanbul) 212–13, 232–9 Mersin (İçel) 233
98–102, 107–9 flora and fauna 26 restaurants 355
Beyazıt Square (Istanbul) 106 getting around 210, 213 Meryemana Kultur Parkı 186
Book Bazaar (Istanbul) 107 hotels 335–6 Mesnevi (Sufi poems) 259
Bursa Market Area 168–9 itineraries 11, 15 Mesopotamia 45, 47
Cavalry Bazaar (Istanbul) 85 maps 210–11, 212–13 Metochites, Theodore 122, 123
Copper Bazaar (Malatya) 308, restaurants 353–6 Metro systems 245, 398
309 sights at a glance 211, 213 Mevlâna (Celaleddin Rumi) 15,
Covered Bazaar (Bursa) 168 A Week in Mediterranean and 41, 114, 256, 259
Egyptian Bazaar (Istanbul) 98, Anatolian turkey 15 tomb of 257
99, 100–101, 102 Western Mediterranean coast Mevlâna Festival (Konya) 41, 368
Flower Market (Bursa) 169 210–11, 214–30 Mevlevi Lodge (Istanbul) 41, 66,
Galatasaray Fish Market Medreses (colleges) 36 112, 114, 136
(Istanbul) 113 Mehmet, Şehzade 103 Mevlevi Order (Whirling
Gaziantep 311 Mehmet I, Sultan Dervishes) 41, 66, 112, 114,
Grand Bazaar (Istanbul) 12, 66, Covered Bazaar (Bursa) 168 252–3, 259
95, 99, 108–9 Green Mosque (Bursa) 166 Mezes (appetizers) 340, 341, 344
Kapalı Çarşı (Şanlıurfa) 312 Green Tomb (Bursa) 166 Midas Tomb (Gordion) 251
Kütahya Bazaar 263 Old Mosque (Edirne) 158 Midas Tomb (Midasşehir) 261
Marmaris Bazaar 205 Mehmet II (the Conqueror), Midyat 30
Safranbolu 272 Sultan 38, 58, 60, 158 hotels 339
Semiz Ali Paşa Bazaar (Edirne) Çanakkale fortress 178 Mihrab (niche in mosque wall) 36
159 Eyüp Sultan Mosque 124 Alaeddin Mosque (Konya) 255
Three Bazaars (Kayseri) Fortress of Europe (Istanbul) Atik Valide Mosque (Istanbul)
294 130, 133 128
Tire 185 Fortress of Seven Towers Eşrefoğlu Mosque (Beyşehir)
Tulip Mosque (Istanbul) 106 (Istanbul) 120 258
what to buy 364–5 Grand Bazaar (Istanbul) 108 Green Mosque (Bursa) 167
GENERAL INDEX 409
Mihrab (cont.) Mosaics (cont.) Mosques (cont.)

Green Tomb (Bursa) 166 Gaziantep Zeugma Mosaic Kasım Padişah Mosque
Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 88 Museum 311 (Diyarbakır) 314
Karaman Mihrab Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 87, Kazdağlioğlu Mosque
(Archaeological Museum, 88–9 (Safranbolu) 272
Istanbul) 76 Haghia Sophia (Trabzon) 274 Kızıl Minare Mosque (Aksaray)
Muradiye Mosque (Bursa) 171 Icon of the Presentation 297
Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 161 (Archaeological Museum, Kocatepe Mosque (Ankara)
Mikasonmiya Memorial Garden Istanbul) 77 243, 249
(Kirşehir) 297 Mosaic Museum (Istanbul) 84, 91 Konak Mosque (İzmir) 182
Milas (Mylasa) 29, 197 Pammakaristos (Istanbul) 118 Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Mosque
Miletus 13, 194–5 St Saviour in Chora (Istanbul) (Safranbolu) 272–3
Milvian Bridge, Battle of 53 122–3 Kurşunlu Mosque (Nevşehir)
Minarets 37 Mosques 34–7 286
Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 82, 84, Alaeddin Mosque (Bursa) 170 Lala Mustafa Paşa Mosque
92–3 Alaeddin Mosque (Konya) 243, (Erzurum) 322
Dört Ayaklı Minare (Diyarbakır) 254, 255 Mahmut Bey Mosque (Kasaba)
314 Alaeddin Mosque (Niğde) 15, 293 269
Eğri (Leaning) Minaret (Aksaray) Atik Valide Mosque (Istanbul) Mecidiye Mosque (Ortaköy)
296, 297 128–9 132
Fluted Minaret (Antalya) 222 Behram Paşa Mosque Mosque of Selim I (Istanbul)
Great Mosque (Adana) 235 (Diyarbakır) 314 119
Green Mosque (İznik) 33, 164 Beyazıt Mosque (Istanbul) 106 Mosque of the Three Balconies
Mosque of the Three Balconies Beyazıt II Mosque (Edirne) 158 (Edirne) 158
(Edirne) 158 Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 12, 21, Mosque of Victory 115
Sabancı Central Mosque 67, 82–3, 84, 92–3 Muradiye Mosque (Bursa) 170–71
(Adana) 234 Cezri Kasım Paşa Mosque Muradiye Mosque (Edirne) 159
Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 160 (Eyüp) 121 New Mosque (Istanbul) 64–5,
Seminary of the Slender Eşrefoğlu Mosque (Beyşehir) 101, 102
Minaret (Konya) 254 258 Nusretiye Mosque (Istanbul)
Truncated Minaret (Antalya) 223 Eyüp Sultan Mosque (Istanbul) 115
Twin Minaret Seminary 124 Old Mosque (Edirne) 158
(Erzurum) 322–3 Fatih Mosque (Amasra) 268 Orhan Gazi Mosque (Bursa)
Twin Minaret Seminary (Sivas) Fatih Mosque (Istanbul) 119 168, 169
299 Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque Prince’s Mosque (Istanbul) 34,
Minbar (pulpit in mosque) 36 (Istanbul) 121 103
Atik Valide Mosque (Istanbul) 128 Great Mosque (Adana) 235 Rüstem Paşa Mosque (Istanbul)
Blue Mosque (Istanbul) 92 Great Mosque (Afyon) 260 100, 102, 102
Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 88 Great Mosque (Bursa) 168 Sabancı Central Mosque
Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 161 Great Mosque (Denizli) 193 (Adana) 153, 234
Miniatures, Ottoman 33 Great Mosque (Diyarbakır) Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 154,
Miniatürk 137, 369 314 158, 160–61
Minibus travel 391 Great Mosque (Eski Malatya) Selimiye Mosque (Istanbul)
Minicity Antalya 222, 369 309 129
Mithridates VI of Pontus 52, 192, Great Mosque (Kütahya) 262–3 Selimiye Mosque (Konya) 34,
214, 302 Great Mosque (Niğde) 293 152
Mobile phones 386, 387 Great Mosque (Sivrihisar) 260 Şemsi Paşa Mosque (Istanbul)
Mohacs, Battle of 59 Green Mosque (Bursa) 166–7 128
Mohammed, Prophet 37, 75, 257 Green Mosque (İznik) 33, 164 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque
Monasteries Gülbahar Mosque (Trabzon) (Istanbul) 32–3, 96
Deyr-az-Zaferan (Mardin) 313 274 Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul)
Kızlar Monastery (Göreme Hacı Bayram Veli mosque and 36, 66, 104–5, 130
Open-Air Museum) 288 tomb (Ankara) 244 Sultan Beyazıt Mosque and
Mevlevi Lodge (Istanbul) 41, 66, Hunat Hatun Mosque (Kayseri) Theological College (Amasya)
112, 114, 136 294–5 303
Monastery of St George İlyas Bey Mosque (Miletus) 194, Tulip Mosque (Istanbul) 106
(Büyükada) 162 195 Ulu Cami (Great Mosque,
Sumela Monastery 265, 267, 276 İmaret (Süleymaniye Mosque, Divriği) 323
Money 384–5 Istanbul) 104 visiting 381
Mongol invasion 57 İsa Bey Mosque (Selçuk) 184 Yavuz Sultan Mosque 119
Monuments see Columns and İskele Mosque (Amasra) 268 Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque (Bursa)
obelisks; Memorials and İskele Mosque (Istanbul) 128 166
monuments Junior Hacı Özbek Mosque Zeynep Sultan Mosque
Mosaics (İznik) 34 (Istanbul) 70
Antakya Archaeological Kalenderhane Mosque Zeyrek Mosque (Istanbul)
Museum 239 (Istanbul) 77, 103 119
410 GENERAL INDEX
Mosquitoes 383 Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Motor racing 368 Archaeology Museum Museum of the History of
Motorcycling 395 (Kütahya) 263 Science and Technology
Motorways 394 Arms and armour exhibition in Islam 78
Mountaineering 372, 375 (Topkapı Palace, Istanbul) 72–3, Istanbul Museum of Modern
Mountains 74 Art 115
flora and fauna 27 Atatürk Ethnography Museum Kaleiçi Museum (Antalya) 223
see also mountains by name (Denizli) 193 Karatay Museum (Konya) 15,
Mud baths (Ilıca) 215 Atatürk Museum (Samsun) 241, 255
Müezzin mahfili (platform in 269 Kossuth House Museum
mosque) 36 Aydın Museum 185 (Kütahya) 262
Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) Baksi Museum 277 Mardin Museum 313
160 Bursa City Museum 167 Marmara University Museum of
Muradiye district (Bursa) 170 Bursa Museum of Anatolian the Republic 94
Murat I, Sultan 158, 171, 179 Carriages 171 Marmaris Museum 205
Murat II, Sultan 159, 168, 170 Canakkale Destanı Tanıtım Meerschaum Museum
Murat III, Sultan 75, 87, 88, 95, Merkezi (Gallipoli Peninsula) (Eskişehir) 261
118 172 Mersin Museum 233
Murat IV, Sultan 73, 88, 132 Carpet Museum (Istanbul) Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 15,
Murat V, Sultan 125 90–91 152, 241, 256–7
Müren, Zeki 198 Çatalhöyük Museum 258 Military Museum (Istanbul)
Museums and galleries Çengelhan Rahmi M. Koç 124–5
Alacahöyük Museum 298 Museum (Ankara) 245 Mosaic Museum (Istanbul) 84,
Alanya Museum 230 Çeşme Museum 184 91
Archaeological and Çinili Pavilion (Istanbul) 76 Museum of Anatolian
Ethnographic Museum City Museum (Istanbul) 125 Civilizations (Ankara) 241,
(Kahramanmaraş) 309 Clock exhibition (Topkapı 246–7
Archaeological and Palace, Istanbul) 75 Museum of Innocence
Ethnographic Museum Çorum Museum 299 (Istanbul) 115
(Samsun) 269 Divan (Topkapı Palace, Istanbul) Museum of Islamic Artefacts
Archaeological Museum 72, 75 (Erzurum) 322
(Adana) 234 Emine Göğöş Culinary Museum Museum of the Ancient Orient
Archaeological Museum (Gaziantep) 311 (Istanbul) 76
(Afyon) 260 Ephesus Museum (Selçuk) Museum of the War of
Archaeological Museum 184 Independence (Ankara) 244–5
(Antakya) 213, 239 Ethnographic Museum (İzmir) Museum of Turkish and Islamic
Archaeological Museum 182 Arts (Bursa) 167
(Antalya) 15, 222 Ethnographic Museum Museum of Turkish and Islamic
Archaeological Museum (Bursa) (Kastamonu) 268 Arts (Edirne) 159
171 Ethnography Museum (Adana) Museum of Turkish and Islamic
Archaeological Museum 234 Arts (Istanbul) 84, 91
(Çanakkale) 178 Ethnography Museum (Ankara) Museum of Wood and Stone
Archaeological Museum 245 Carving (Konya) 254
(Erzurum) 322 Ethnography Museum (Sivas) Naval Museum (Istanbul) 125
Archaeological Museum 299 Open-Air Steam Train Exhibition
(Gaziantep) 311 Fethiye Museum 216 (Çamlık) 184
Archaeological Museum Florence Nightingale Museum opening hours 380
(Istanbul) 12, 71, 76–7 (Istanbul) 129 Ottoman Bank Museum
Archaeological Museum (İznik) Gazi Museum (Samsun) 269 (Istanbul) 115
164 Gaziantep Zeugma Mosaic Panorama 1453 Museum 121
Archaeological Museum (Kars) Museum 311 Pera Museum (Istanbul) 113, 114
319 Gevher Nesibe Medical History Rahmi Koc Industrial Museum
Archaeological Museum Museum (Kayseri) 294 (Istanbul) 124
(Malatya) 308 Glass Shipwreck Hall (Castle of Republic Museum (Ankara) 245
Archaeological Museum (Tokat) St Peter, Bodrum) 200 Rize Museum 278
299 Gordion Museum 251 Roman Bathhouse (Side) 229
Archaeology and Ethnography Göreme Open-Air Museum 15, Sadberk Hanım Museum
Museum (Amasya) 303 288–9 (Istanbul) 130
Archaeology Museum (İzmir) Hacı Bektaş Museum 297 Sakip Sabancı City Museum
182 Haleplibahçe Museum (Mardin) 313
Archaeology Museum (Şanlıurfa) 312 Science Museum (Istanbul) 78
(Kastamonu) 268 Hasan Süzer Ethnography Silifke Museum 232
Archaeology Museum (Kayseri) Museum (Gaziantep) 311 Taksim Art Gallery (Istanbul) 115
295 Health Museum (Edirne) 158 Technology Museum (Istanbul)
Archaeology Museum (Kırşehir) İftariye Pavilion (Topkapı Palace, 78
297 Istanbul) 73 Tile Museum (Kütahya) 262
GENERAL INDEX 411
Museums and galleries (cont.) National parks (cont.) Orhaniye 207

Trabzon Museum 275 Gallipoli 172–3 Orient Express 80
Turkish Railways Open-Air Göksu Delta 232 Oriental Kiosk (Grand Bazaar,
Steam Locomotive Museum Güllük Dağ 224 Istanbul) 109
(Ankara) 248 Hattuşaş 283, 300–301 Ortahisar, hotels 338
Ürgüp Museum 287 Ilgaz Mountain 269 Ortakent 203
Victory Museum (Afyon) 260 Kaçkar Mountains 278 Ortaköy 132
Village Life Museum (Okakköyü) Karagöl-Sahara 279 Osman I, Sultan 57, 58, 124, 163,
323 Koprulu Cayı 224 170
Yıldız Palace Museum (Istanbul) Nemrut Dağı 310 Osman II, Sultan 120
125 Soğuksu 250 Osman Hamdi Bey 76
Yozgat Ethnographic Museum Uludağ 163 Otağ Music Shop (Istanbul) 70
298 National service 31 Ottoman architecture 28–9,
Zeki Müren Museum (Bodrum) National Sovereignty and 34–5, 79, 254
198 Children’s Day 38 Ottoman Empire 20, 58–61
Zinciriye Medresesi (Aksaray) National Youth and Sports Day 38 Ottoman houses 35, 79, 254,
297 NATO 22, 63, 182 272–3, 299
Ziya Gökalp Museum Naval High School (Heybeliada) 162 Outdoor activities 372–7
(Diyarbakır) 314 Navy Day 39, 41 Özal, Turgut 63, 308
Music 370–71 Necropolis (Hierapolis) 191
Arabesque and pop 371 Nemrut Dağı National Park 310 P
Çingene (gypsy) 371 Nemrut, Mount (Nemrut Dağı) Painting, Ottoman miniatures 33
classical 136, 137 305, 306, 310, 316–17 Palaces
fasıl 136, 369, 371 Neolithic period 45, 192, 246, 308 Beylerbeyi Palace (Istanbul) 132
Mehter Band 124, 126, 371 Nerva, Emperor 53 Bucoleon Palace (Istanbul) 97
music festivals 136, 368, 369 Netsel Marina (Marmaris) 204 Byzantine Great Palace
rock and jazz 136, 137 Nevşehir (Nyssa) 286–7 (Istanbul) 84, 91, 94, 96–7
Sufi music and chanting 371 hotels 338 Dolmabahçe Palace (Istanbul)
traditional 136–7, 369, 370–71 “New Army” 129 60, 67, 116, 117, 126–7, 130
Musical instruments New Spa (Bursa) 171 İshak Paşa Sarayı (near
Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 257 New Year 41 Doğubeyazıt) 319
traditional 370–71 Newspapers 387 Palace of the Porphyrogenitus
Muslims 21 Nicaea see İznik (Istanbul) 121
beliefs and practices 30, 37 Nicene Creed 164 Presidential Palace (Ankara) 249
Exploring mosques 36–7 Nicholas, St 41, 220, 222 Topkapı Palace (Istanbul) 12, 67,
Muslim holidays 40 Niğde (Nahita) 293 68, 69, 70–75
Ramazan (Ramadan) 18, 37, 40 Nightclubs 137, 198, 368 Yıldız Palace (Istanbul) 125
Mustafa III, Sultan 75, 95 Nightingale, Florence 129 Palamut Bükü 206
Mustafa Kemal see Atatürk Nika Revolt 94, 96 Palandöken ski centre 250, 323,
Mustafa Paşa Tower (Ortakent) Noah’s Ark 95, 153, 305, 319 372
203 North Anatolian Fault 24 Paleolithic period 45
Mustafapaşa 292 Nymphaeum (Side) 229 Pamphylian Plain 15
hotels 338 Nysa 185 Pamukkale 13, 177, 188–9, 190, 376
restaurants 360 Nyssa see Nevşehir hotels 334
Müteferrika, İbrahim 107 restaurants 353
Muvakkithane Gateway O Paragliding 372–3, 375
(Süleymaniye Mosque, Ocakköyü 323 Parks and gardens
Istanbul) 104 Öcalan, Abdullah 63 Alaeddin Park (Konya) 254
Mylasa (Milas) 29, 197 Odeon (Ephesus) 187 Gülhane Park (Istanbul) 70, 79
Myndos Gate (Bodrum) 199 Old Dockyard and Arsenal Point Karaalioğlu Park (Antalya) 223
Myndos (Gümüşlük) 202 (Bodrum) 198 Konya Fairground 254
Myra 219, 220 Old Harbour (Antalya) 222 Koza Park (Bursa) 168
Myriocephalon, Battle of 56 Old Spa (Bursa) 171 Mikasonmiya Memorial Garden
Ölü Deniz 14, 208, 216–17 (Kirşehir) 297
N hotels 336 Yıldız Park (Istanbul) 117, 125
Nahita (Niğde) 293 restaurants 355 Youth Park (Ankara) 248
Nakkaşhane imperial design Olympos 221 Passports 380
studio (Topkapı Palace, Open-Air Steam Train Exhibition Pastırma (cured beef ) 100, 102,
Istanbul) 32, 165 (Çamlık) 184 294, 295
Nargile (water pipe), smoking Opening hours 380 Patara 14, 41, 52, 218
107, 364 banks 380, 384 Paul, St 20, 53, 179, 232, 233, 258
National holidays 41 restaurants 341 see also St Paul Trail
National parks shops 134, 362, 380 Pavilion of the Holy Mantle
Bird Paradise 156, 163 Orhan Gazi 58, 164, 170 (Topkapı Palace, Istanbul) 75
Çamlık 298 Orhan Gazi Mosque (Bursa) 168, Pedasa 203
Dilek Peninsula 185 169 Pedestrians 396
412 GENERAL INDEX
Peloponnesian War 178 Rail travel (cont.) Roxelana 90

Pension hotels (pansiyon) 326, 327 rail routes 392–3 Baths of (Istanbul) 85, 91
Pera Palace Hotel (Istanbul) 80, rail tours 393 tomb of 104
112, 114 Sirkeci Station (Istanbul) 80, 389 Royal Pavilion (Istanbul) 101
Peré, Raymond 182 sleepers and seats 392–3 Rugs see Carpets and kilims
Pergamum see Bergama Turkish Railways Open-Air Rules of the Road 394
Perge 15, 50, 224 Steam Locomotive Museum Rumi, Celaleddin (Mevlâna) 15,
Personal security 382 (Ankara) 248 41, 114, 256, 259
Pessinus 260 Ramazan (Ramadan, Muslim tomb of 257
Peter, St 238 holiday) 18, 37, 40 Rüstem Paşa Caravanserai
Petrol 394 Recycling 381 (Edirne) 159
Pharmacies 383 Red Tower (Alanya) 230 Rüstem Paşa’s tomb 103
Phaselis 14, 221 Religion 20–21, 37
Philip II of Macedon 50 Hittite 48 S
Philip, St 191 religious tours 374, 375 Sabiha Gökçen Airport (Istanbul)
Phocaea (Foça) 179 Roman 52–3 388–9, 397
Phonecards 386 see also Christianity; Islam Şadırvan see Fountains
Photography 382 Religious services see Churches; Safety 382–3
Phrygians 20, 49, 51, 244, 260, 261 Mosques; Synagogues Safranbolu 29, 265, 266, 270–73
Gordion Museum 251 Repairs, vehicle 395 hotels 337
Serving Table 246 Republic Day 40 map 272–3
Pierre Loti Café (Istanbul) 124 Responsible tourism 381 restaurants 359
Pınara 218 Restaurants 340–61 Sagalassos 52
Pipes, water (smoking) 107, 364 Aegean region 350–53 Sailing and cruising holidays 373,
Piri Reis 59, 60 Ankara and Western Anatolia 375
Polatlı 251 356–8 St Nicholas Symposium and
restaurants 358 Black Sea 358–9 Festival (Demre) 41
Police 382, 383 Cappadocia and Central St Paul Trail 258, 372
Polonezköy 156, 162 Anatolia 359–60 Saklıkent Gorge 11, 14, 24, 210,
Pontus, Kingdom of 302 Döner Gazino (Kütahya) 262 217
Pony trekking 373, 375 Eastern Anatolia 360–61 restaurants 355
Pool of Abraham (Şanlıurfa) 312 Flavours of Turkey 342–3 Samandağ 239
Pop music 371 Istanbul 346–9 Samsun 38, 269
Porphyry Sarcophagi Mediterranean Turkey 353–6 hotels 337
(Archaeological Museum, mezes (appetizers) 340, 341, 344 restaurants 359
Istanbul) 77 opening hours 341 Sandal Bedesteni (Grand Bazaar,
Post offices (PTT) 387 Şark Kahvesi (Istanbul) 108 Istanbul) 109
Postal services 387 service and paying 341 Şanlıurfa (Edessa) 56, 231, 305,
Pottery see Ceramics Thrace and the Sea of Marmara 306, 312
Prayer times 21, 37, 381 349–50 hotels 339
Prehistoric Turkey 45, 258 types of restaurant 340–41 restaurants 361
Presidential Palace (Ankara) 249 What to Drink in Turkey 345 Santa Claus 220
Priam, King 178 what to expect 341 Sarcophagus of the Mourning
Priene 13, 194 Rhodes, capture of 204, 231 Women (Archaeological
Princes’ Islands 12, 155, 162 Riter, Otto 129 Museum, Istanbul) 76
Public conveniences 381 Rize 278 Sardis 52
Public telephones 386 hotels 337 Sarıhan 287
Puppets restaurants 358–9 Sarımsaklı 179
Karagöz shadow puppet Rize bezi fabric 278 Şavşat 279
theatre 30, 155, 166, 167, 168 Road travel 394–5 Schliemann, Heinrich 178
Pylamenes, King of Galatia 244 Rock formations (Cappadocia) Sea buses 389, 393, 399
281, 284–5 Sebastopolis 299
R Rock music 137 Sebil (provision of water outside
Race Week (Marmaris) 40 Rock of Van (Lake Van) 318 mosque) 35, 78, 107, 124
Racing Rock tombs 214, 215, 218, 219 Şeker Bayramı (Sugar Festival,
horse 137, 368–9 Amasya 302 Muslim holiday) 40
motor 368 Fethiye 216, 226–7 Selale Waterfall (Tarsus) 233
Radio 387 Rock-cut churches and Selçuk 13, 184
Rail travel 389, 392–3 monasteries 15, 288–9, 296 events 41
Haydarpaşa Station (Istanbul) Rococo style, Turkish 71, 78, 79, 87 hotels 334–5
129, 389 Roma Community 381 restaurants 353
Metro (Ankara) 245 Roman Baths (Ankara) 244 Seleucas I, King of Syria 197
metro (Istanbul) 398 Roman Empire 52–3 Seleucid Empire 52, 238
Open-Air Steam Train Exhibition Roman Stone Bridge (Adana) 235 Seleukos III, King of Syria 51
(Çamlık) 184 Romanus IV Diogenes, Emperor Self-catering accommodation 329
Orient Express 80 56 Selge 224
GENERAL INDEX 413
Selim I (“the Grim”), Sultan 74, 75, Şile bezi (cotton cloth) 163 Sphinx Gate (Boğazkale) 301
119, 262, 274 Silifke 232 Spice Bazaar see Egyptian Bazaar
Selim II (“the Sot”), Sultan 60, 171, Silk Route 28, 74, 234, 274, 287 Spices. shopping for 135, 362,
237 Silverware (Topkapı Palace, 363, 365
Mausoleum (Haghia Sophia, Istanbul) 74 Sports 137, 368–9, 372–3, 375
Istanbul) 33, 87 Simena (Kale) 14, 220 Spring in Turkey 38
Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 160 Sinan, Koca Mimar 79, 105 Stadium (Aphrodisias) 192
Selim III, Sultan 124, 129 Atik Valide Mosque (Istanbul) 128 Steppe flora and fauna 27
Selimiye Barracks (Istanbul) 129 Baths of Roxelana (Istanbul) 85, 91 Stolen property 382
Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 154, Çemberlitaş Baths (Istanbul) 95 Stone heads (Mount Nemrut)
158, 160–61 Gazi Ahmet Paşa Mosque 306, 310, 316–17
Selimiye Mosque (Istanbul) 129 (Istanbul) 121 Strabo 224, 228, 230
Seljuk Rum Sultanate 56–7 İskele Mosque (Istanbul) 128 Stratonikeia 197
Seljuk Turks 20, 28, 54, 56–7, 164 Mausoleum of Selim II (Haghia Students
Sema ritual (Whirling Dervishes) Sophia, Istanbul) 87 discounts 137
41, 66, 112, 114, 252–3, 259 Prince’s Mosque (Istanbul) 34, 103 hostels 328
Semahane (Ceremonial Hall, Rüstem Paşa Caravanserai Sublime Porte (Istanbul) 70, 79
Mevlâna Museum, Konya) 257 (Edirne) 159 Sufis 36, 114, 252–3, 259, 371
Seminary of the Slender Minaret Rüstem Paşa Mosque (Istanbul) Süleyman the Magnificent, Sultan
(Konya) 254 102 60, 90
Semiz Ali Paşa Bazaar (Edirne) 159 Selimiye Mosque (Edirne) 160 Erzurum 322
Şemsi Ahmet Paşa’s tomb Şemsi Paşa Mosque (Istanbul) 128 Marmaris 204, 205
(Istanbul) 128 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque Prince’s Mosque (Istanbul) 103
Şengül Hamamı Turkish Baths (Istanbul) 32, 96 Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul)
(Bursa) 168 Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul) 104
Septimus Severus, Emperor 94 66, 104 tomb of 105
Seraglio Point (Istanbul) 68–80 tomb of 104 Süleyman the Magnificent, Sultan
First Courtyard of Topkapı Sinop 56–7, 265 59
(Istanbul) 70–71 hotels 338 Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul)
hotels 330 Şirince 184 36, 66, 104–5, 130
map 69 Sirkeci Station (Istanbul) 80, 80, 389 Sultan Beyazıt Mosque and
restaurants 346 Sivas 56, 299 Theological College (Amasya)
sights at a glance 69 Sivas Congress 299 303
Sester, Karl 310 Sivrihisar (Justinianopolis) 260 Sultanahmet (Istanbul) 19, 82–97
Sèvres, Treaty of 63 Sizes of clothing and shoes 363 hotels 330–31
Seyhan River 234, 235, 236 Ski centres maps 83, 84–5
Seyit Vehbi Efendi 78 Apple Mountain 250 restaurants 346
Şeyitgazi Valley 261 Davraz Ski Centre 258, 372 sights at a glance 83
Shiite Muslims 36 Kartalkaya 250 Sultanahmet Square (Istanbul) 84–5
Shipwrecks 200–201 Mount Erciyes 292 Sultanhanı Caravanserai (Aksaray)
Shoemakers’ Street (Safranbolu) Palandöken ski centre 323, 372 29
273 Uludağ 163 Sultansazlığı Bird Sanctuary 293
Shopping 362–7 Zigana 277 Sumela Monastery 265, 267, 276
antiques 108–9, 248, 363 Skiing 372, 375 Summer in Turkey 39
aqua accessories 377 Smbat II, King of Armenia 321 Sünnet (circumcision ritual) 30
bargaining 134 Smoking 327, 381 Sunni Islam 21, 36, 58
in Istanbul 134–5 Smyrna see İzmir Suvla Bay (Gallipoli Peninsula)
opening hours 134, 362, 380 Snakes 383 172, 173
paying 362 Society 21–2 Synagogues
rugs 367 Soğanlı 292–3 Ahrida Synagogue (Istanbul) 118
sending purchases home 363 Soğukçeşme Sokagi (Istanbul) 70, Synthronon (Haghia Eirene,
shopping malls 134, 135, 362, 79 Istanbul) 78
380 Soğukluk (hot room, Turkish
sizes and measurements 363 baths) 80, 81 T
VAT exemption 362, 363 Soğuksu National Park 250 Tahtakale Hamamı Çarşısı
what to buy 364–5 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa 96, 237 (Istanbul) 100
see also Markets and bazaars Southeast Anatolian Project Taksim quarter (Istanbul) 115
Shrine of Apollo Delphinius (GAP) 25, 305, 308 Tango Festival (Marmaris) 40
(Miletus) 195 Spas and hot springs 376–7 Tanzimat Reforms 61
Shrine of Zoodochus Pege Havza thermal springs 269 Tarsus 233
(Istanbul) 121 Haymana Hot Springs 250–51 restaurants 356
Side 11, 15, 209, 211, 228–9 Kızılcahamam 250, 376 Taş Küle (Foça) 179
hotels 336 Mud baths (Ilıca) 215 Taxes
map 229 see also Turkish baths on alcohol 341, 345
restaurants 355 Specialist holidays 372–7 Value-added tax (VAT) 328, 341,
Şile 156, 162–3 Sphinx Gate (Alacahöyük) 48, 298 362, 384
414 GENERAL INDEX
Taxis 391, 396 Tickets (cont.) Topkapı Palace (Istanbul) 12, 67,
Tea, Turkish 278 for entertainments 136 68, 69, 70–75
Teaching Hospital (Amasya) 302 rail travel 392 collections 74–5
Telephone services 386 Tigris, River 25, 45, 305, 314, 315 maps 70–71, 72–3
Television 387 Tilework 32–3 old stables 78
Telmessus 216 Cuerda seca technique 119, 166 Tour operators, specialist holidays
Temples Green Mosque (İznik) 33, 164 374, 375
Aphrodite (Aphrodisias) 192–3 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque Tourism industry 22, 63, 222, 281
Apollo and Athena (Side) 11, 228 (Istanbul) 32–3, 96 Tourism police 382, 383
Apollo (Didyma) 195 Tile Museum (Kütahya) 262 Tourist information 380, 381
Athena (Behram Kale) 179 see also İznik ceramics and tiles Tours by car
Athena (Herakleia) 196 Time zone 381 Bodrum Peninsula 202–3
Athena (Priene) 194 Timur (Tamerlane) 195 Daçta Peninsula 206–7
Augustus and Rome (Ankara) 244 Tios 14 Tower of the Seven Brothers
Euromos 196 Tire 185 (Diyarbakır) 315
Great Temple (Boğazkale) 301 restaurants 353 Trabzon 264, 265, 267, 274–5
Hadrian (Ephesus) 187 Titus, Emperor 239 hotels 338
Trajan (Bergama) 176, 180 Titus Tunnel 239 map 275
Zeus (Aezani) 261 Toilets, public 381 restaurants 359
Zeus Olbios (Uzuncaburç) 232 Tokat 31, 299 Traditional dress 30, 31, 63, 74, 371
Zeus (Silifke) 212 Tombs Traditional music and dance 23,
Termessos 15, 224 Abdül Aziz (Istanbul) 95 31, 136, 369
Teşılova Mound (İzmir) 182 Abdül Hamit II (Istanbul) 95 Traditions see Customs and
Tetrapylon (Aphrodisias) 193 Ahmet I (Istanbul) 84 traditions
Teutonic Knights 231 Alexander Sarcophagus Trains see Rail travel
Texier, Charles 216 (Istanbul) 51, 76 Trajan, Emperor 53
Textiles 31 Cafer Paşa 198 Tramways 110, 398, 399
Bursa 168 Erzurum 307 Travel 388–99
Denizli 193 Green Tomb (Bursa) 166 Aegean region 177
Rize bezi fabric 278 Gülbahar (Trabzon) 274 air travel 388–9
shopping for 134, 135, 168, 230, Hacı Bayram Veli mosque and Ankara and Western Anatolia 243
363, 365 tomb (Ankara) 244 Black Sea region 267
şile bezi 163 Hacı Bektaş 297 bus and dolmuş (minibus) 390–
Tokat 299 Harpy Tomb (Xanthos) 51 91, 396, 397
Topkapı Palace (Istanbul) 74 İbrahim Paşa (Istanbul) 103 cable cars (Istanbul) 398–9
Thales (mathematician) 194 İlyas Bey (Miletus) 194 Cappadocia and Central
Theatre 137, 368, 369 İsmet İnönü 248 Anatolia 283
Theatres, ancient Koca Sinan Paşa (Istanbul) 107 car 394–5
Aphrodisias 192 Lycian 51, 209, 216, 218, 219, coach 389
Aspendos 225 226–7 cycling 395
Bergama 181 Mahmut II (Istanbul) 95 Eastern Anatolia 307
Bodrum 199 Mehmet I (Bursa) 166 ferries 157, 177, 233, 389, 393,
Ephesus 187 Mehmet II (Istanbul) 119 399
Hierapolis 191 Mevlâna (Konya) 257 funicular (Istanbul) 124, 398–9
Miletus 194, 195 Midas (Gordion) 251 insurance 383
Priene 194 Midas (Midasşehir) 261 Istanbul 396–9
Side 228–9 Necropolis (Hierapolis) 191 late-night transport (Istanbul) 137
Termessos 224 Octagonal Tomb (Kayseri) 295 Mediterranean Turkey 210, 213
Theme parks 369 Osman and Orhan Gazi (Bursa) metro (Ankara) 245
Theodora, Empress 55, 96 170 metro (Istanbul) 398
Theodosian Walls (Istanbul) 12, Porphyry Sarcophagi (Istanbul) 77 motorcycling 395
55, 117, 120–21 Rock tombs 219 see also Rock Naval Museum (Istanbul) 125
Theodosius I, Emperor 53, 120 tombs (main heading) Nostalgic Tram (Istanbul) 110, 398
Theodosius II, Emperor 55, 121 Roxelana (Istanbul) 104 Rahmi Koc Industrial Museum
Theodosius III, Emperor 53 Rüstem Paşa (Istanbul) 103 (Istanbul) 124
Thrace and the Sea of Marmara St John the Baptist 184 rail travel 389, 392–3
154–73 Şemsi Ahmet Paşa (Üsküdar) sea buses 389, 393, 399
climate 42 128 Thrace and the Sea of Marmara
getting around 157 Şeyyid Battal Gazi 261 157
hotels 332 Sinan (Istanbul) 104 tramways 110, 398, 399
map 156–7 Süleyman the Magnificent water taxis (Istanbul) 399
restaurants 349–50 (Istanbul) 105 Travellers’ cheques 384
Three Tombs (Erzurum) 323 Taş Küle (Foça) 179 Treasure, diving for 201
Tickets 380 Three Tombs (Erzurum) 323 Treasury (Topkapı Palace,
boats and ferries 399 see also Mausoleums Istanbul) 73, 74–5
buses and minibuses 390, 391 Tophane (Bursa) 170 Trotsky, Leon 162
GENERAL INDEX 415
Troy 13, 20, 47, 155, 178 Upper Agora (Bergama) 181 Wildlife (cont.)
restaurants 353 Urartians 20, 49, 318, 323 loggerhead turtles 214, 215
Troy Festival (Çanakkale) 39 Lion Statuette 246 tours 374, 375
Tudhaliyas IV, King 300 Ürgüp 15, 286–7 see also Birds; National parks
Tuff formations 284–5 events 40 Wilhelm II, Kaiser 129
Tuğra (personal monogram) 32 hotels 339 fountain (Istanbul) 94
Tuğrul Bey, Sultan 56 restaurants 360 Winter in Turkey 41
Tulip Festival (Emirgan) 38 Uzuncaburç 232 Women
Tünel underground railway Uzungöl 264, 278 etiquette 380, 381
(Istanbul) 399 restaurants 359 segregation of 21, 30, 36, 80,
Turgut Reis 202 341
Turkish baths (hamams) 28, 81, 376 V Wood, inlaid 364
Baths of Faustina (Miletus) 194 Vaccinations 383 Woodlands 24, 26, 276
Baths of Roxelana (Istanbul) 85, 91 Valide Han (Istanbul) 107 Woodworking 31
Bodrum Hamam 198, 376, 377 Value-added tax (VAT) 328, 341, World War I 38, 61, 62, 63, 172–3,
Cağaloğlu Baths (Istanbul) 80, 362, 384 305
81, 376, 377 Van, Lake 25, 305, 307, 318 cemeteries and memorials
Çarşi Hamamı (Adana) 235 hotels 339 38, 129, 152, 156, 172–3, 374
Çemberlitaş Baths (Istanbul) 12, restaurants 361 World War II 63, 129, 248
81, 95 Velvet Castle (İzmir) 183
Cinci Hanı (Safranbolu) 272 Venessa see Avanos X
Gedik Paşa Hamamı 107 Vespasian, Emperor 214, 239 Xanthos (Kıniık) 51, 218, 219
New Spa (Bursa) 171 Vespasian Monument and Arch
Old Spa (Bursa) 171 (Side) 211, 229 Y
Şengül Hamamı (Bursa) 168 Victory Day 39 Yachts 210, 373, 375
Umur Bey Hamamı (Bursa) 168 Villa of Sultan Kılıç Arslan 254 Bodrum 198
see also Spas and hot springs Visas 380 Bodrum Cup Regatta 40
Turkish Grand National Assembly Viziers 60, 72, 74 Datça 207
(Ankara) 245 Volcanoes 285 Göcek 215
Turkish Republic, foundation of gülets 373
22, 40, 62 W Marmaris 38, 204
Turkish Rococo style 71, 78, 79, 87 Walking and trekking 372, Marmaris Race Week 40
Turkish State Railways (TCDD) 375 Yakacık 237
392, 393 around Istanbul 396 Yakutiye Seminary (Erzurum)
Turkish Touring & Automobile Carian Trail 176, 206, 372 322
Club (TTOK) 395 Lycian Way 210, 217, 220, Yalıkavak 202
Turks, origins of 56–7 372 Yalıs (waterfront villas) 35
Turquoise Coast, A Week on the St Paul Trail 258, 372 Yatağan 197
10, 14 Walls see City walls Yazıköy 206
Turtle Beach (Dalyan) 215 War memorials (Gallipoli Yazılıkaya (Hittite site) 298, 300,
Turtle Statue (Dalyan) 214 Peninsula) 38, 129, 152, 155, 301
Twin Minaret Seminary (Erzurum) 172–3, 374 Yedikule Fortress (Istanbul) 120
322–3 War of Independence 62, 260 Yeni Mevlanakapı Gate
Twin Minaret Seminary (Sivas) 299 Dumlupınar Monument (Theodosian Walls, Istanbul) 121
Twin-turreted Theology Complex (Kütahya) 262 Yenifoça 179
(Kayseri) 294 museum (Ankara) 244–5 Yeniköy 131
Water, drinking 383 Yeşilırmak River 281, 282, 302
U Water taxis (Istanbul) 399 Yıldız Palace (Istanbul) 125
Üçağiz 14, 220 Watermelons 40, 314 Yıldız Park (Istanbul) 117, 125
Uçhisar 15, 282 Weaving 31, 366 Young Turks 61
hotels 338–9 Weddings 30 Youth hostels 328
restaurants 360 Western Anatolia see Ankara Youth Park (Ankara) 248
Uludağ National Park 163 and Western Anatolia Yozgat 298
Umur Bey Hamamı (Bursa) 168 Western Mediterranean coast Yunus Emre Culture and Art
Underground cities 153, 277, see Mediterranean Turkey Week (Eskişehir) 38
285, 286–7 Wetlands 26 Yusufeli 279
UNESCO World Heritage Sites Whirling Dervishes 41, 66, 112, restaurants 359
Boğazkale 300–301 114, 252–3, 259
Çatalhöyük 258 Whitewater rafting 279, 372, Z
Cumalıkızık 163 375 Zağnos Bridge and Tower
Divriği 323 WiFi 327, 386–7 (Trabzon) 274
Göreme Valley 288 Wildlife 26–7 Zelve 15, 286
Kayaköy 216 Anatolian lynx 26, 224 Zeugma 311
Letoön 218 Atatürk Farm and Zoo (Ankara) Zigana 277
Safranbolu 265, 270–73 249 Zinciriye Medresesi (Aksaray) 297
Xanthos 218 Butterfly Valley 210, 217 Zincirli Han (Istanbul) 109
416 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Barnaby Rogerson has travelled and lectured extensively
people whose contributions and assistance have made in the eastern Mediterranean. With Rose Baring he co-wrote
the preparation of this book possible: Essential Istanbul (AA) and contributed to other AA and
Cadogan guides, as well as DK Eyewitness Guide to Istanbul.
Main Contributor Canan Silay was a journalist on the Turkish daily, Hürriyet,
Suzanne Swan graduated from Queen’s University in and then editor of Istanbul, The Guide for many years. She has
Kingston, Ontario, Canada, and has lived in Turkey since 1990. contributed to several books on Turkey, including the Insight
She was contributing editor of Antalya, the Guide for two guides to Istanbul, Turkey and the Turkish coast.
years and contributed to many articles and books on Turkey,
including Globetrotter Travel Guide to Turkey and Insight Guide Additional Contributors
to the Turkish Coast. She is the Turkish correspondent for Sean Fraser, Lisa Greenstein, Alfred LeMaitre.
a trade publisher.
Additional Photography
Contributors and Consultants DK Studio/Steve Gorton, Nigel Hicks, Izzet Keriber, Dave
Dominic Whiting, a freelance writer-photographer, lived in King, Fatih Mehmet Akdan, Ian O’Leary, Clive Streeter.
Turkey for four years. He wrote Footprints Turkey Handbook,
was a co-author of Time Out’s Istanbul City Guide, and Additional Cartography
updated the DK Eyewitness Guide to Istanbul. Globetrotter Travel Maps; Haluk Inci, İki Nokta.
Dr Caroline Finkel is an Ottoman historian and academic
researcher. Revisions Team
Dr Bianka Ralle has an MA in German Studies and worked Rudolf Abraham, Ashwin Adimari, Asad Ali, Emma Anacootee,
in journalism as well as teaching and training programmes Lale Aran, Jasneet Arora, Claire Baranowski, Kate Berens, Tarryn
for developing countries. She was a consultant on Turkey Berry, Marta Bescos, Sonal Bhatt, Hilary Bird, Nadia Bonomally,
for the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Leizel Brown, Jo Cowen, Lellyn Creamer, Dipika Dasgupta,
Development (OECD). Her doctoral thesis was on migration Neha Dhingra, Claudia Dos Santos, Emer FitzGerald, Karen
and modernization in Turkey. Fitzpatrick, Anna Freiberger, Rhiannon Furbear, Camilla Gersh,
Kate Clow was educated in the UK, but completed her MBA Emily Hatchwell, Jennifer Hattam, Barbara Isenberg, Shobhna
at Istanbul University in 1991 and stayed in Turkey. She has Iyer, Jacky Jackson, Nazlı Koca, Priya Kukadia, Rahul Kumar,
contributed to the Rough Guide to Turkey, Top Treks of the Simon Lewis, Irene Lyford, Alison McGill, Ian Midson, Jason
World and Cornucopia Magazine, and is the originator of the Mitchell, Claire Naylor, George Nimmo, Catherine Palmi, Reetu
Lycian Way and St Paul Trail walks. Pandey, Susie Peachey, Helen Peters, Nicole Pope, Pure Content,
Terrance Duggan walked from Greece to Egypt in 1988–89, Marisa Renzullo, Terry Richardson, Ellen Root, Sands Publishing
in the footsteps of Alexander the Great. A scholar and Solutions, Rituraj Singh, Nikky Twyman, Gerhardt van Rooyen,
painter, he has written widely on Islamic and Turkish culture Reinette van Rooyen, Conrad van Dyk, Ed Wright, Sophie Wright.
and art. His paintings of Seljuk and Ottoman designs have
been exhibited in London, Istanbul and Italy. Proofreader and Indexer Pat Barton.
Terry Richardson studied classics at Sheffield University, Publishing Manager Kate Poole
England. He has contributed to Rough Guide to Turkey and Managing Editor Helen Townsend
Footprints Guide and photographed for Cornucopia Magazine DTP Designer Jason Little
and The Lycian Way.
Nilüfer Tünay has a degree in Communication Technology, Cartographer
worked in the Turkish media sector and represented Sea Casper Morris
Trades Magazine in Turkey. She is now retired.
Molly McNailly-Burke was Turkish correspondent for the Special Assistance
Irish Times and a contributor to the Insight and Columbus Dorling Kindersley would like to thank staff at museums,
Guides. She now lives in Hertfordshire, England. mosques, churches, government departments, shops, hotels,
Ronnie Askey-Doran edited a satirical broadsheet in restaurants, transport services and other organizations in
Istanbul and now lives in her native Australia. Turkey for their help.
Christopher Gardner is a botanist and horticulturist Particular thanks are due to: Dr Oğuz Alpözen, Bodrum
who lives in England. Museum; Ibrahim Baştutan; Emine Bilirgen, Topkapı Palace,
Rosie Ayliffe lived in Turkey for three years while working as Istanbul; Erol Çakir, İzmir Archaeology Museum; Süleyman Çakır;
a freelance writer in Istanbul. She was one of the authors of Sühelya Demirci, Sivas Museum; Hikmet Denizli; The Museum
Rough Guide to Turkey, and contributed to the Rough Guide of Anatolian Civilisations, Ankara; Ercihan Düzgünoğlu, TÜRSAB,
to France, Time Out’s London guides and the DK Eyewitness Istanbul; Veysel Ediz, Çorum Museum; Dr Donald Frey, Institute
Guide to Istanbul. of Nautical Archaeology, Bodrum; Iclal and Muzaffer Guler; Ali
Rose Baring is a travel writer who has spent many months Harmankaya, Side Museum; Kaili Kidner and Lars-Eric Möre,
exploring Istanbul. She was co-author of Essential Istanbul Göreme; Joanna March and Hülya Soylu, Turkish Tourist Office,
(AA) and DK Eyewitness Guide to Istanbul. London; Güney Paksoy, Yedikule and Rumeli Hisar Museums;
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 417
Feyza Sürücü, Ministry of Tourism, Ankara; Ertan Tezgör, Turkish Akdeniz Hatay Sofrasi: 348tl; AKG Photo: 62crb; Erich Lessing 1c,
Grand National Assembly, Ankara; Feridun Ülker, Presidential 51tl/bl; Haghia Sophia, Istanbul Emperor Constantine IX
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The following staff of provincial tourist offices were very from Pompeii 50–51; Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris from the Djamil
helpful: Reşit Akgüneş, Diyarbakır; Nebahat Alkaya, Bodrum; el Tawarik 57crb; British Library, from the Westminster Abbey Psalter
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PHRASE BOOK 419
right sağ saa

Phrase Book straight on
near
doğru
yakın
doh-roo
ya-kuhn
far uzak oo-zak
Pronunciation up yukarı yoo-ka-ruh
Turkish uses a Roman alphabet. It has 29 letters: 8 vowels and down aşağı a-shah-uh
21 consonants. Letters that differ from the English alphabet are: c, early erken er-ken
pronounced “j” as in “jolly; ç, pronounced “ch” as in “church”; ğ, which late geç gech
lengthens the preceding vowel and is not pronounced; ı, entrance giriş gee-reesh
exit çıkış chuh-kuhsh
pronounced “uh”; ö, pronounced “ur” (like the sound in “further”); ş,
toilets tuvaletler too-va-let-ler
pronounced “sh” as in “ship”; ü, pronounced “ew” as in “few”.
push itiniz ee-tee-neez
pull çekiniz cheh-kee-neez
In an Emergency more daha fazla da-ha faz-la
less daha az da-ha az
Help! İmdat! eem-dat
very çok chok
Stop! Dur! door
Call a doctor! Bir doktor beer dok-tor chah-
çağrın! ruhn Shopping
Call an Bir ambulans beer am-boo-lans
How much is this? Ne kadar? ney ka-dar
ambulance! çağrın! chah-ruhn
I would like … … istiyorum … ees-tee-yo-room
Call the police! Polis çağrın! po-lees chah-ruhn
Do you have …? … var mı? …var muh
Fire! Yangın! yan-guhn
Do you take Kredi kartı kreh-dee kar-tuh
Where is the En yakın telefon en ya-kuhn credit cards? kabul ediyor ka-bool eh-dee-yor
nearest nerede? teh-leh- fon musunuz? moo-soo-nooz
telephone? neh-reh-deh What time do Saat kaçta Sa-at kach-ta
Where is the En yakın hastane en ya-kuhn you open/ açılıyor/ a-chuh-luh-yor/
nearest nerede? has-ta- neh close? kapanıyor? ka-pa-nuh-yor
hospital? neh-reh-deh this one bunu boo-noo
that one şunu shoo-noo
Communication Essentials expensive pahalı pa-ha-luh
cheap ucuz oo-jooz
Yes Evet eh-vet size (clothes) beden beh-den
No Hayır h-‘eye’-uhr size (shoes) numara noo-ma-ra
Thank you Teşekkür ederim teh-shek-kewr white beyaz bay-yaz
eh-deh-reem black siyah see-yah
Please Lütfen lewt-fen red kırmızı kuhr-muh-zuh
Excuse me Affedersiniz af-feh-der-see-neez yellow sarı sa-ruh
Hello Merhaba mer-ha-ba green yeşil yeh-sheel
Goodbye Hoşça kalın hosh-cha ka-luhn blue mavi ma-vee
Good morning Günaydın gewn-‘eye’-duhn brown kahverengi kah-veh-ren-gee
Good evening İyi akşamlar ee-yee ak-sham-lar shop dükkan dewk-kan
Morning Sabah sa-bah till kasa ka-sa
Afternoon Öğleden sonra ur-leh-den son-ra bargaining pazarlık pa-zar-luhk
Evening Akşam ak-sham That’s my last Daha fazla da-ha faz-la
Yesterday Dün dewn offer veremem veh-reh-mem
Today Bugün boo-gewn
Tomorrow Yarın ya-ruhn
Here Burada boo-ra-da Types of Shop
There Śurada shoo-ra-da antiques shop antikacı an-tee-ka-juh
Over there Orada o-ra-da bakery fırın fuh-ruhn
What? Ne? neh bank banka ban-ka
When? Ne zaman? neh za-man book shop kitapçı kee-tap-chuh
Why? Neden? neh-den butcher’s kasap ka-sap
Where? Nerede? neh-reh-deh cake shop pastane pas-ta-neh
chemist’s/ eczane ej-za-neh
Useful Phrases pharmacy
fishmonger’s balıkçı ba-luhk-chuh
How are you? Nasılsınız? na-suhl-suh-nuhz greengrocer’s manav ma-nav
I’m fine İyiyim ee-yee-yeem grocery bakkal bak-kal
Pleased to Memnun oldum mem-noon ol-doom hairdresser’s
meet you (ladies) kuaför kwaf-fur
See you soon Görüşmek üzere gur-rewsh-mek (mens) berber ber-ber
ew-zeh-reh leather shop derici deh-ree-jee
That’s fine Tamam ta-mam market/bazaar çarşı/pazar char-shuh/pa-zar
Where is/are …? … nerede? …neh-reh-deh newsstand gazeteci ga-zeh-teh-jee
How far is it to …? … ne kadar uzakta? …ney ka-dar post office postane pos-ta-neh
oo-zak-ta shoe shop ayakkabıcı ‘eye’-yak-ka-buh-juh
I want to go to … … a/e gitmek … a/eh geet-mek stationer’s kırtasiyeci kuhr-ta-see-yeh-jee
istiyorum ees-tee-yo-room supermarket süpermarket sew-per-mar-ket
Do you speak İngilizce biliyor een-gee-leez-jeh tailor terzi ter-zee
English? musunuz? bee-lee-yor moo- travel agency seyahat acentesi say-ya-hat
soo-nooz a-jen-teh-see
I don’t Anlamıyorum an-la-muh-yo-room
understand
Can you help me? Bana yardım ba-na yar-duhm Sightseeing
edebilir misiniz? eh-deh-bee-leer mee castle hisar hee-sar
-see-neez church kilise kee-lee-seh
island ada a-da
Useful Words mosque cami ja-mee
museum müze mew-zeh
big büyük bew-yewk palace saray sar-‘eye’
small küçük kew-chewk park park park
hot sıcak suh-jak square meydan may-dan
cold soğuk soh-ook theological medrese med-reh-seh
good/well iyi ee-yee college
bad kötü kur-tew tomb türbe tewr-beh
enough yeter yeh-ter tourist turizm too-reezm
open açık a-chuhk information danışma da-nuhsh-mah
closed kapalı ka-pa-luh office bürosu bew-ro-soo
left sol sol tower kule koo-leh
420 PHRASE BOOK
town hall belediye sarayı beh-leh-dee-yeh incir een-jeer figs

sar-‘eye’-uh ızgara uhz-ga-ra charcoal grilled
Turkish bath hamam ha-mam kahve kah-veh coffee
kara biber ka-ra bee-ber black pepper
karışık ka-ruh-shuhk mixed
Transport karpuz kar-pooz water melon
kavun ka-voon melon
airport havalimanı ha-va-lee-ma-nuh kayısı k-‘eye’-uh-suh apricots
bus/coach otobüs o-to-bewss kaymak k-‘eye’-mak cream
bus stop otobüs durağı o-to-bewss kıyma kuhy-ma minced meat
doo-ra-uh kızartma kuh-zart-ma fried
coach station otogar o-to-gar köfte kurf-teh meatballs
minibus dolmuş dol-moosh kuru koo-roo dried
fare ücret ewj-ret kuzu eti koo-zoo eh-tee lamb
ferry vapur va-poor lokum lo-koom Turkish delight
sea bus deniz otobüsü deh-neez maden suyu ma-den soo-yoo mineral water (fizzy)
o-to-bew-sew meyve suyu may-veh soo-yoo fruit juice
station istasyon ees-tas-yon midye meed-yeh mussels
taxi taksi tak-see muz mooz banana
patlıcan pat-luh-jan aubergine
ticket bilet bee-let peynir pay-neer cheese
ticket office bilet gişesi bee-let gee-sheh-see pilav pee-lav rice
timetable tarife ta-ree-feh piliç pee-leech roast chicken
şarap sha-rap wine
Staying in a Hotel sebze seb-zeh vegetables
şeftali shef-ta-lee peach
Do you have a Boş odanız bosh o-da-nuhz şeker sheh-ker sugar
vacant room? var mı? var muh su soo water
double room iki kişilik bir oda ee-kee kee-shee-leek süt sewt milk
beer o-da sütlü sewt-lew with milk
room with a çift kişilik yataklı cheeft kee-shee-leek tavuk ta-vook chicken
double bed bir oda ya-tak-luh beer o-da tereyağı teh-reh-yah-uh butter
tuz tooz salt
twin room çift yataklı bir cheeft ya-tak-luh üzüm ew-zewm grapes
oda beer o-da vişne veesh-neh sour cherry
for one person tek kişilik tek kee-shee-leek yoğurt yoh-urt yoghurt
room with a bath banyolu bir oda ban-yo-loo beer o-da yumurta yoo-moor-ta egg
shower duş doosh zeytin zay-teen olives
porter komi ko-mee zeytinyağı zay-teen-yah-uh olive oil
key anahtar a-nah-tar
room service oda servisi o-da ser-vee-see
I have a Rezervasyonum reh-zer-vas-yo-noom
Numbers
reservation var var 0 sıfır suh-fuhr
Does the price Fiyata kahvaltı fee-ya-ta kah-val- 1 bir beer
include breakfast? dahil mi? tuh da-heel mee? 2 iki ee-kee
3 üç ewch
4 dört durt
Eating Out 5 beş besh
A table for … kişilik bir masa … kee-shee-leek 6 altı al-tuh
… please lütfen beer ma-sa lewt-fen 7 yedi yeh-dee
I want to reserve Bir masa ayırtmak beer ma-sa 8 sekiz seh-keez
a table istiyorum ‘eye’-uhrt-mak 9 dokuz doh-kooz
ees-tee-yo-room 10 on on
The bill please Hesap lütfen heh-sap lewt-fen 11 on bir on beer
I am a vegetarian Et yemiyorum et yeh-mee-yo-room
restaurant lokanta lo-kan-ta 12 on iki on ee-kee
waiter garson gar-son 13 on üç on ewch
menu yemek listesi ye-meklees-teh-see 14 on dört on durt
fixed-price menu fiks menü feeks meh-new 15 on beş on besh
wine list şarap listesi sha-raplees-teh-see 16 on altı on al-tuh
breakfast kahvaltı kah-val-tuh 17 on yedi on yeh-dee
lunch öğle yemeği ur-leh-yeh-meh-ee 18 on sekiz on seh-keez
dinner akşam yemeği ak-sham yeh-meh-ee 19 on dokuz on doh-kooz
starter meze meh-zeh 20 yirmi yeer-mee
main course ana yemek a-na yeh-mek 21 yirmi bir yeer-mee beer
dish of the day günün yemeği gewn-ewn
yeh-meh-ee 30 otuz o-tooz
dessert tatlı tat-luh 40 kırk kuhrk
rare az pişmiş az peesh-meesh 50 elli eh-lee
well done iyi pişmiş ee-yee peesh-meesh 60 altmış alt-muhsh
glass bardak bar-dak 70 yetmiş yet-meesh
bottle şişe shee-sheh 80 seksen sek-sen
knife bıçak buh-chak 90 doksan dok-san
fork çatal cha-tal 100 yüz yewz
spoon kaşık ka-shuhk 110 yüz on yewz on
200 iki yüz ee-kee yewz
Menu Decoder 1,000 bin been
100,000 yüz bin yewz been
badem ba-dem almond 1,000,000 bir milyon beer meel-yon
bal bal honey
balık ba-luhk fish
bira bee-ra beer Time
bonfile bon-fee-leh fillet steak
buz booz ice one minute bir dakika beer da-kee-ka
çay ch-‘eye’ tea one hour bir saat beer sa-at
çilek chee-lek strawberry half an hour yarım saat ya-ruhm sa-at
çorba chor-ba soup day gün gewn
dana eti da-na eh-tee veal week hafta haf-ta
dondurma don-door-ma ice cream month ay ‘eye’
ekmek ek-mek bread year yıl yuhl
elma el-ma apple Sunday pazar pa-zar
et et meat
fasulye fa-sool-yeh beans Monday pazartesi pa-zar-teh-see
fırında fuh-ruhn-da roast Tuesday salı sa-luh
fıstık fuhs-tuhk pistachio nuts Wednesday çarşamba char-sham-ba
gazoz ga-zoz fizzy drink Thursday perşembe per-shem-beh
hurma hoor-ma dates Friday cuma joo-ma
içki eech-kee alcohol Saturday cumartesi joo-mar-teh-see

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Managing Editors Alfred Lemaitre, Laura Milton

First American edition 1995 Introducing

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Thrace and the Sea

The Aegean 174

Mediterranean Emblems of Istanbul, the Haghia Sophia

Sumela Monastery (see p276)

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Istanbul Area by Area I S TA N B U L A R E A B Y A R E A 69

Sights at a Glance where the area is in relation to

Afield section covers many Churches

Historic Buildings and

peripheral places of interest. Monuments

1 Area Map For easy reference,

All sights are numbered and q Sirkeci Station

sights are numbered and

plotted on an Area Map. Sirkeci

located on a map. City centre

Information on the sights is

sights are also marked on the

easy to locate as it follows

Istanbul Street Finder maps

the numerical order used

Stars indicate the sights that

no visitor should miss.

Sights at a Glance lists the

See also Street Finder map 5

chapter’s sights by category, Cankurtaran

This gives a bird’s-eye from the heat of the city.

view of the key areas in 6 Soğukçeşme Sokağı

wooden houses line

each sightseeing area. 9 Sublime Porte

A Rococo gate stands in Pavilion

to (and symbol of ) the 1 . Topkapı Palace

Story boxes explore specific

3 Feature Each feature looks

attraction, tracing its history

Turkey Region by Region

176 TURKEY REGION BY REGION THE AEGEAN 177

Exploring the Agean Lâpseki

illustrated overview of the whole

and around, the region.

KUŞADASI Minor road

Söke Scenic route

h Bodrum Peninsula BODRUM

Temple of Trajan, Bergama (Pergamum)

described individually. They Few places can compete with

are listed in order, following and pine forests. All major

the numbering on the The harbour and quay extend

Regional Map. Within each Netsel Marina

are fragrant, thick and dark.

entry, there is further Turkey’s largest and most

detailed information on shops and plenty of service

important buildings and

1km (0.5 mile)

From the top terrace of the LU

wonderful view of the town TE

you can spot the one and Atatürk