High Pressure Electrolyzer: Diy Guide # 0011

DIY GUIDE # 0011
HIGH PRESSURE
ELECTROLYZER
STEP BY STEP DIY GUIDE
✔Detailed drawings with all sizes

✔ List of parts and materials
✔ Building Tips
✔ AutoCAD files for laser cutting
Table of content
Table of content 2
Brief description and specifications. 3
Necessary requirements for manufacturing. 4
Tools and equipment. 5
Parts, materials and consumables. 6
Parts from aliexpress and Wittgas 6
1. The manufacture of electrolytic cell parts. 7

Steel grade selection. 7
Making the front wall. 7
Making the back wall 8
Plate making. 8
Active plates conditioning. 9
Making of insulating gaskets. 10
Making of insulating spacers. 11
Making spacer tubes. 11
2. The manufacture of the cell 12

Sandwich assembly. 12
Filling electrolyzer with epoxy. 16
Dielectric coating. 18
3. Making a circulation tank 19

Selection of materials. 19
Holes arrangement. 19
Tank making. 20
4. Assembly of the circulation circuit. 23

Fittings setup. 23
Connection of the electrolyzer to the tank. 24
4. Electrolyzer start. 26
Electrolyte refueling. 26
Powering the electrolyzer. 26
5. About the developer. 27
2
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Brief description and specifications.
Electrolyzer is a device that turns water into fuel gas
through an electrochemical reaction.
This model consists of 18 electrolytic cells connected
in a combined way (in parallel and in series). Each
cell is a container with an electrolyte, limited by metal
plates (electrodes) and an insulator.
When an electric current passes through the metal

plates, the water is decomposed into constituent
gases: hydrogen and oxygen in a ratio of 2 to 1. The
resulting gas is called Brown gas or Hydroxy. This
gas is used as fuel for laboratory work, pulsed
devices such as a repulsor, is added to internal
combustion engines and other fun things.
If gas is not discharged from the system, the electrolyzer operates as a powerful compressor and can
generate any pressure that can withstand without additional energy costs.
Normal characteristics:
Power: .3 kW.
The gas generation rate: 3 liters per minute.
Operating temperature: 30-40 degrees Celsius.
Maximum characteristics:
Peak power for 60 seconds: 3 kW
Peak gas output: 20 liters per minute
The maximum temperature: 80 degrees
Maximum supply current: 110 amperes (welding inverter)
Maximum Pressure Tested: 6 atmospheres (88 psi)
This instruction is in addition to the detailed video on the manufacture of the cell.
Be sure to look at it to visually see all the nuances of manufacturing and assembly.
https://youtu.be/nCqU-lU6HDU
Disclaimer # 1. The device described in this manual poses a danger to the life and health of the
⚠ user in case of violation of safety regulations. The scheme involves the accumulation of flammable
gas under pressure. The main difference between HHO (Brown's Gas) and other fuel gases is that
it contains both fuel and an oxidizing agent in an ideal stoichiometric ratio for ignition. This means
that if the flame gets inside the system, then the system will no longer exist. Please, be careful!
3
Necessary requirements for manufacturing.
For the manufacture of an electrolyzer, metalwork and electrical skills are needed. To make everything exactly
as in the instructions, laser cutting, argon-arc welding of stainless steel will be required.
4
Tools and equipment.
Necessary Not necessary
Ruler, caliper, pencil, permanent marker Rubber cutting plotter

Drilling machine
Metal cutting laser Grinding machine
Set of metric taps and dies Multifunctional machine (Dremel)
Grinder
Disks for grinders. Cutting, grinding, flap
Drill + Drill Rack
Hacksaw
Set of drill bits for metal 2-10 mm

Step drill for metal 2-20 mm
Drill bit 2.5 mm
Drill bit 8.5 mm
Drill bit 6/15 (you can do it yourself)
Sandpaper (grit P 180-240)
Sanding bar
Flat file
Hammer, core, scriber for metal
Soldering iron, solder wire, soldering acid

Multimeter
Clerical or electrical knife

Scissors
Tweezers
Pliers
Clamps with gripper 140 mm, 3 pcs.

Set of wrenches 5.5-22 mm
Flat screwdriver for precision work (0.8-1mm)
Phillips screwdriver
5
Parts, materials and consumables.
Parts, materials and quantity
Stainless steel sheet 5 mm, (size depends on cutting, see file for laser cutting in a folder)
Stainless steel sheet 1.5 mm, (size depends on cutting, see file for laser cutting in a folder)
Stainless steel pipe, (D = 100, S = 2, L = 140)
Alkali resistant rubber, 2 mm thickness, 1500х500
M6x90 bolts, 10 pcs.
M6 nuts, 10 pcs.
M6 washers, 20 pcs.
Fum tape, width 10 mm, 1 roll
Masking tape, width 20mm
Stationery tape, width 20mm
Double-sided tape, 10 mm or 50 mm
Baking paper, 1 roll
-
M3x10 screws, 2 pcs.
M3 nuts, 2 pcs.
Screws M4x5, 2 pcs.
Plastic ties
-
Metric fittings with clamping M6 / 4, 8 pcs.
Pneumatic hose. 4x6x20001
Silicone or plastic hose 6x8x1000
Silicone or plastic hose 8х10х1000
-
Solvent, 1l
Two-component epoxy adhesive, 0.6kg
Liquid dielectric, 1 can
-
Distillate, 1l
Alkali KaOH or Na OH, 100g
Big syringe for 100-150cc, 1 pc.
Rubber gloves, rags, glass jar for mixing electrolyte
-
Optional (optional)
Pressure gauge up to 10 bar
Solenoid valve, 12v
Flashback arrestor
Perforated steel plates (see photo in the section Connecting the electrolyzer)
Perforated Steel Corner (same section)
Parts from aliexpress and Wittgas
Wittgas, flashback arrestor (professional) https://clck.ru/MLnaY
AirSLG pneumatic fittings http://ali.pub/4j3oux
Walfront, solenoid valve http://ali.pub/4j3qlc
1
Dimensions of hoses and tubes are indicated as inner diameter x outer diameter x length
6
1. The manufacture of electrolytic cell parts.
Steel grade selection.
All parts, that contact with the electrolyte are made of
austenitic stainless steel. Grades 304, 316. Ferrous
metal, galvanizing, aluminum are definitely not
suitable and this is not the model to save on metal.
Making the front wall.

Walls here perform several functions.
They works as body plates and compress the cell
from two sides. Also, the inner surfaces of the walls
are involved in the chemical reaction of electrolysis.
The power wire terminal is attached to the plate
through a 3.5mm hole with a M4 screw.
The front wall also has 4 openings for circulating
electrolyte.
The part is cut out using a laser from a 5 mm plate.
Cut the thread under the fittings with an M6 tap.
Cut the thread for the contact screw with an M4 tap.
The outer diameter of the part is 163 mm, coincides

with the diameter of the back wall.
7
Making the back wall
The back wall is cut from the same 5 mm plate.
Although the presence of a laser cutting machine is

very desirable, such plates can stil be made
manually. It is very time consuming and accuracy will
be inferior to laser. But if you really want it and there
is no laser, then you can do it with your hands.
In a 3.5 mm hole, cut the thread with an M4 tap for

the power wire terminal.
Plate making.
There are 2 types of plates in this model - with
contact pins and without contact pins.
Both types are cut from 1.5 mm stainless sheet.
Plates with contacts - 2 pcs.

Plates without contacts - 15 pcs.
The number of plates is important because the

voltage on each cell depends on this. 17 inner plates
+ outer plates of the body form 19 plates, i.e. 18 cells
with the required voltage of 2 volts each.
Again, if there is no laser, then the upper and lower

holes can be made round shape, but maintaining the
area of the holes.
8
Left drawing is a plate without contacts.
Helpful advice.
To be honest, now I would make the area of the slots
for electrolyte circulation little more. The drawing
indicates that the internal lines of the slots are 106.9
mm in diameter. And such an area is enough for a
gas generation rate of 3 liters per minute.
But if you plan to use an electrolyzer with increased
power, put more than 0.3 kW into it and want the
reactor to have less gas filling, then reduce this
diameter from 106.9 to 105 mm.
But do not touch the outer diameter, it should not
exceed 111mm.
Now you should have all the plates of the reactor

ready, go to the processing.
Active plates conditioning.

Process all surfaces of all plates with grinder with a
petal abrasive disk.
Important! No burrs from laser cutting or threading

should remain on the plates.
Important! Do not push the grinder too much.

Otherwise, you can easily spoil the disks by making
a groove through which the electrolyte will flow.
As a result, all 19 plates must be sanded without

scratches or burrs.
9
After processing the plates with a grinder, continue
conditioning the active areas of the plates.
Grind each side over the entire area in two planes:
from top to bottom and from left to right.
Each 1.5 mm plate is involved in the reaction on both

sides. The body plates participate in the reaction
only by the internal sides. That is, 32 sides need to
be prepared in total.
If you have a flat grinder or machine, this will greatly

facilitate the work.
Making of insulating gaskets.

Cut out 18 gaskets - rings from a special
heat-acid-frost-alkali-resistant 2mm rubber.
The outer diameter is 135 mm.

The inner diameter is 115 mm.
10
Making of insulating spacers.
To isolate the coupling screws from the plates,
textolite insulating washers and plastic tubes are
required.
Perhaps such washers can be bought, but I did not

find the washers of the desired diameter on sale, so I
made them myself using a corona type drill, which I
also did not find on sale, so I made it myself too.
The inner diameter of the washer is 6 mm.

External is 13-15 mm.
Thickness is 1-2 mm.
Quantity 20 pcs.
Rubber gaskets are not suitable. They deform due to

tightening pressure and temperature. You need a
hard isolation material that is resistant to
compression.
Making spacer tubes.

Spacer insulation tubing prevents the bolt from
touching the walls. They can be cut from a 6x8 mm
plastic hose. It will take 20 tubes 10 mm long.
The insulation scheme will be clear from the figure
on the left and video guide.
Each bolt is insulated with two washers and two
tubes.
11
2. The manufacture of the cell
Sandwich assembly.
Before assembling all the plates on the body, you
can only preassemble thin plates, tighten them with
clamps and put 2 marks on the top and bottom at the
ends.
These marks will help center the plates.
Note that for this you need to assemble the plates so

that the lower openings for circulation are staggered,
and the upper ones form an even corridor.
So that during assembly the sandwich rises evenly, I

made such an auxiliary device from plexiglass. Every
2-3 layers I put this plexiglass on the screws, and
checked whether the plate was lying properly.
12
Before assembly, all surfaces involved in the
reaction must be cleaned and degreased with a
solvent.
It is better to use a sponge that does not leave fibers

after itself, like a rag.
Dry all parts with a hairdryer or wait until they dry

themselves.
Use M6x90 bolts for assembly.

Prepare the screws. Wrap each screw with a
fumlent, thenput on a metal washer, then a textolite
washer, then a piece of plastic hose.
13
Insert 5 screws through a holes into the front plate.
Put the assembly on the table with the screw heads
to the table.
Very important! Bolts should not touch the housing. It

is better to double-check the tester.
Please note that some images do not have insulating

gaskets. This is because during the shooting I forgot
to put them on and assembled the reactor without
them. And even flooded with epoxy.
But I havent got this PDF before my eyes)
At the time of assembly, it is better to seal the holes

for the fittings with masking tape on the outside.
From the outside! This is the one that is looking
down now.
Before assembling the plates, look at the right order

of the plates
1st plate - housing with holes for fittings

5 neutral plates
7th plate - contact
5 neutral plates
13th plate - contact
5 neutral plates
19th plate - housing
14
Now we can start assembling.
All plates are separated by rubber gaskets.
Use the marks on the plates and plexiglass with

marking to assemble a flat sandwich.
The lower holes on the plates alternate - left, right.

Which side to start is not important.
On some photos, the contact plates are in the wrong

order. My fault. The main thing - now you know how
to do it right.
If all the previous steps are completed correctly, the

assembly is quick and easy.
Important! Check with a corner or ruler whether all

layers are at an equal distance from the edge of the
bottom plate.
If there is a skew, it is better to sort out the cell now.

Then it becomes inseparable.
The result should be a flat sandwich.

The uppermost plate is a 5 mm case.
Put plastic tubes on the bolts, then insulating
spacers, then metal washers and only then nuts.
Tighten the nuts so that a little tighten the sandwich.
Add the remaining 5 bolts and a set of insulating

spacers. In the photo on the left, the position of these
details is clearly visible.
Getting to the screed. The task is to very evenly

reduce the distance from 61.5 mm to 58.5 mm.
This is sufficient force so that the cell does not leak.
We use the diagonal broach, tightening the opposite
nuts and the cross to the cross. Then the screed will
be uniform.
Be sure to measure the distance between the body

plates with a caliper during and after tightening.
As a result, the distance between the plates of the
body should be 58.5 mm around the entire
perimeter.
15
After pulling all the nuts, check the electrolyzer with a
multimeter again. There should be no contact
between the body plates and the connecting screws
on either side.
If at least one bolt has a contact, you need to
unscrew it, understand where it touches the body,
insulate and tighten again.
After the next step, such a trick will not pass.
Filling electrolyzer with epoxy.

To prevent gas under pressure from pushing gaskets
out, the cell must be filled with epoxy.
First, make a fill mold.

Glue the baking paper to the sides on double-sided
tape, leaving a hole for filling. On top of the sides
and paper, make another layer of stationery tape so
that the epoxy does not leak.
16
For pouring, we need 0.6 kg of epoxy and hardener
in a ratio of 10 to 1.
Better to take with a margin of 600g. resin and 60g.
hardener.
Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is better to
heat the resin to 30-40 degrees so that it is easier to
fill.
Thoroughly mix the resin and hardener.
Slowly and gently fill the composition through the

upper hole in small portions.
We need to wait for the composition to flow down,

and after that we add the next portion.
As a result, the entire free volume is filled with glue

and a small flat lake remains on top. But this is
enough to keep the gaskets in place even under
tremendous pressure.
After solidification, the epoxy forms a strong solid
insulating washer, and the electrolyzer turns into a
monolithic block.
Note that, the contact plates are not installed

correctly in this photo. Well, you already understood,
I’ve stupid many times during assembly. Correct
installation in the photo below.
17
A day later, after hardening, you can cut off the
paper with a grinder or a hacksaw and bring the
electrolyzer wall to a plane.
Important! During all these operations, the holes for

the fittings must be properly plugged. No dirt should
get into them. The reactor is non-separable and can
only be cleaned by washing.
Dielectric coating.
The body plates must not have electrical contact not
only through the screws, but also through the
surfaces. When the plates are in short circuit, the
voltage on the cells will be zero.
To prevent this, we cover the entire cell with a liquid
dielectric. If you can’t find just such, you can paint it
with paint, but it’s still better a couple of layers of
dielectric.
By the way, when you wait for the dielectric to dry,

make sure that you are not in an underground
bunker, where the temperature is near zero. Maybe
then it will harden earlier than a week.
After the dielectric solidifies, the electrolyzer is ready.
But before connecting and testing it is better to make
a tank for circulating electrolyte, foam and gas.
18
3. Making a circulation tank
Selection of materials.
The cylindrical body and tank walls must also be
made of thick-walled stainless steel. The whole
system must withstand both high pressure and the
aggressive effects of electrolyte.
For the walls I used a stainless steel sheet 5 mm

thick.
For the body it turned out to find a pipe with a wall

thickness of 2 mm, a length of 140 mm, and an outer
diameter of 100 mm.
You can find a pipe with other sizes. The main thing
is that the wall thickness is at least 2 mm, and the
tank volume is at least 1 liter.
Holes arrangement.
The location of the holes you see in the left figure.
The exact location will depend on the diameter of the
pipe from which you make the tank.
Here are the rules of thumb:
Large hole for refueling and gas output hole should

be as high as possible when viewed from the side of
the wall.
Two smaller openings through which electrolyte
enters the tank, foam and gas are located slightly
lower than large ones, at a distance convenient for
fixing the fittings.
The remaining two holes through which the
electrolyte enters the cell should be on the opposite
wall, closer to the opposite side.
19
Tank making.
It is important that the ends of the pipe are as even
as possible. Side walls will be welded to them.
If the pipe has one even end face, then you can
measure the exact length from it along the entire
perimeter and cut off exactly along the marking.
But sometimes both ends are crooked, like mine. To
cut off a thick steel pipe evenly, it can be laid on a
horizontal plane and marked, turning the pipe along
the axis.
Mark the sheets of stainless steel under the outer

diameter of the pipe.
It is easier to cut such parts with a laser. But when I
got to their manufacture, the lasers in the city no
longer worked because of the pandemic, so the
B-plan is a grinder.
20
First make a hexagon, then a dodecagon, then
grinding the corners.
Welding such parts is more convenient if the
diameter of the disk is as close to the diameter of the
pipe as possible. Then the seam is smooth and
airtight.
We need to make two identical disks.
Make holes in the discs.
In the top disc:

Two holes for M6 fittings (5 mm drill bit)
One gas outlet (6 mm drill bit)
Hole for washing / monometer M10 (8.5 mm drill bit)
In the lower disk:

Two holes for M6 fittings (5 mm drill bit).
In order for the bolt-plug or fitting from the

monometer on the M10 to be screwed into the wall
hermetically, it must be strengthened.
I made a 5 mm washer 5 mm, with an internal

diameter of 8 mm and an external 24 mm using a
corona drill bit from the same stainless steel sheet.
This washer is welded to the wall so then the whole

thread length is 10 mm.
21
The washer is drilled with a 8.5 mm drill bit in place,
after welding. This results in a hole 10 mm deep.
As you can see in the photo, if you make the holes

for the M6 a little wider, then the fittings will be
screwed more conveniently.
You can make it wider, but not lower.
When all the holes in the walls are ready, we can

weld them to the cylinder by argon-arc welding.
The tank, like the reactor, is non-separable, so it is

best that the chips, sawdust, crumbs from the burger
do not get inside.
In a normal situation, I would have made all the

fittings demountable, with a threaded metric
connection. But the COVID is now raging especially
strongly in Russia, so I had to make connections
from everything that comes to hand.
Therefore, in the photo you see such things like, a 8

mm exhaust fitting welded to death.
But it is precisely tight.
Tank for gas and electrolyte circulation is ready.
22
4. Assembly of the circulation circuit.
Fittings setup.
So that the flexible connecting hose withstands the
working pressure and does not fly off, I used fittings
with union sealing nuts. They can be found on
Aliexpress.
Unfortunately, I could not find аfully stainless steel
fittings. Those in the photo are made of brass and
covered with a protective layer. They also have a not
very strong wall. So it’s better to use M8 or more.
Important! These fittings do not like to be tightened

several times. After 2-3 puffs in the metal, they break
at the base of the threaded part.
Therefore, you need to install the fittings last thing
and it is advisable not to twist them anymore.
Wrap a strip of 5x12 mm plumbing fixture on each

fitting.
If the strip is shorter, it will leak.
If longer - the fitting will tighten too tightly and may
crack.
I broke 4 pieces before finding the perfect tape
length)
Next time I will use fittings with larger diameter and

thicker wall. These turned out to be a weak spot.
This is disappointing, because the electrolyzer can
withstand much more pressure than that which the
fittings do. And the tightness of any system is
determined by its weakest point.
23
Install 4 fittings in the front wall and 4 fittings in the
tank.
Tighten with a wrench slowly and accurately. If
everything is done according to the instructions, the
reactor will withstand at least 6 atmospheres. Maybe
more, but to be honest, its scary to test.
And 6 atmospheres are enough for me.
Also, if at least one fitting had been damaged during

the last steps, this would have slowed down the
video, because there were no spare ones.
Connection of the electrolyzer to the tank.

For convenient use, we can fix the electrolyzer and
the tank on a rack of mounting steel plate and
corner.
The cell can be attached to the bolts that protrude
from the back wall. Not less than 4 pieces.
The a tank can be placed horizontally and vertically
and secured with ties.
Important! Once again, check with a multimeter so

the body plates are not short cutted. If they have not
contacted before, then now they can accidentally
contact through the stand or through the tank if it is
suspended too low. Correct if necessary.
Install pneumatic hoses.

The upper fittings of the electrolyzer are connected
to the upper fittings of the tank. Bottom ones with the
bottom.
At this stage, the circuit is ready and it can be

checked for operability.
You can also add a couple more parts to make it

more convenient to make experiments with pressure.
24
With the help of such a DIY fitting M10-to-6mm, we
can connect a hose with a manometer through the
same hole through which water is poured.
Moreover, water is not poured very often, because

1868 liters of gas are obtained from one liter of
water.
I hope that when you read this file, more civilized

times have come and such fittings can simply be
bought ready-made.
Then look for a male-female fitting with a metric
thread M10 for a quick-release 6 mm.
Connect a 8 mm hose to the gas outlet.

You can install next optional parts.
If you want to first measure the volume of gas

generation, connect this hose to a tube immersed in
marked water can.
If you need to receive drained gas, it is better to

install a bubbler or a water shutter.
If you want to go to the fire tests, then you need to

install a flashback arrestor.
If you want to accumulate gas first, and then burn it,

as planned according to the scheme, then in front of
the flashback arrestor you need to install the
solenoid valve from the car horn.
Now you can test and use the system.
25
4. Electrolyzer start.
Electrolyte refueling.
The electrolyzer can work on any water. Water, rain,
river orsea.
But, if you need maximum gas output and minimum
work with cleaning the system, then the best option
is a 15% alkali solution. Potassium hydroxide
(KaOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) are best
suited. They are easy to find in a chemical reagent
store even in the most inclement times, because the
chemical industry does not scare the epidemic.
For our model we take 500 ml of distillate,

70 g of alkali, mix thoroughly, observing the rules for
handling alkali and pour into the tank.
Powering the electrolyzer.

That's for the sake of this everything was done.
This electrolyzer can be powered from literally

everything.
12 volt battery.
1st and 13th plates - plus,
The 7th and 19th plates are minus.
36-volt Li-ion battery from a scooter

1st plate - plus, 19th - minus
Laboratory Power Supply 3005

1st plate - plus, 13th minus. The rest do not work.
An autotransformer (LATR) and even a welding inverter are also connected to the first and last plate. The
cell has no polarity, and it can be changed periodically. Connect the minus to the front, and the plus to the
back. Next time change polarity. By the way, if you connect the first and last plates to a 36 volt power
source, then you can take 12 volts from the first and seventh plates and power some 12 volts load.
This model was developed as a hydrogen accelerator for a 140 cc pit bike. Therefore, the main purpose is to
generate Brown Gas under a pressure of 5 atmospheres and sharply run the gas into the carburetor. But
also this model can be used as a convenient explosive gas generator for any projects that your imagination
is capable of. I will try to explain the nuances of installing this unit to an internal combustion engine in the
following file.
26
5. About the developer.
The developer of the electrolyzer and other hydrogen devices is the

inventor and engineer, founder of the Alex Lab Researches
laboratory, Alex Burkan.
I study the possibilities of hydrogen technologies, develop my own
power stations and popularize science.
I am also a big sci-fi fan, a fan of Star Wars and the Marvel Universe,
and I like to have fun with my own inventions.
The most spectacular frenzy can be seen on the channel
http://youtube.com/alexlab
Disclaimer # 2.Never transfer this file to anybody and do not post it in free access!
⚠ Firstly, honestly paying for access, you are tremendously helping to make new developments with
much greater speed. And I really appreciate it.
Secondly, you know that the illegal distribution of intellectual property is prosecuted under law. The
laws and implies unpleasant sanctions up to the real term. Distributors are found out by IP-address
during the day, regardless of the encryption system and browser used.
Othermore, I will lie for a week in deep depression again if I see an unlicensed copy of the
instruction. And who needs it.
Please respect the work of the author and do not be silly.
27

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DIY GUIDE # 0011

✔​Detailed drawings with all sizes

1. The manufacture of electrolytic cell parts. 7

2. The manufacture of the cell 12

3. Making a circulation tank 19

4. Assembly of the circulation circuit. 23

5. About the developer. 27

When an electric current passes through the metal

Ruler, caliper, pencil, permanent marker Rubber cutting plotter

Set of drill bits for metal 2-10 mm

Soldering iron, solder wire, soldering acid

Clerical or electrical knife

Clamps with gripper 140 mm, 3 pcs.

Parts from aliexpress and Wittgas

Wittgas, flashback arrestor (professional) https://clck.ru/MLnaY

AirSLG pneumatic fittings http://ali.pub/4j3oux

Walfront, solenoid valve http://ali.pub/4j3qlc

Making the front wall.

The part is cut out using a laser from a 5 mm plate.

Cut the thread under the fittings with an M6 tap.

Cut the thread for the contact screw with an M4 tap.

The outer diameter of the part is 163 mm, coincides

Although the presence of a laser cutting machine is

In a 3.5 mm hole, cut the thread with an M4 tap for

Plates with contacts - 2 pcs.

The number of plates is important because the

Again, if there is no laser, then the upper and lower

Now you should have all the plates of the reactor

Active plates conditioning.

Important! No burrs from laser cutting or threading

Important! Do not push the grinder too much.

As a result, all 19 plates must be sanded without

Each 1.5 mm plate is involved in the reaction on both

If you have a flat grinder or machine, this will greatly

Making of insulating gaskets.

The outer diameter is 135 mm.

Perhaps such washers can be bought, but I did not

The inner diameter of the washer is 6 mm.

Rubber gaskets are not suitable. They deform due to

Making spacer tubes.

Note that for this you need to assemble the plates so

So that during assembly the sandwich rises evenly, I

It is better to use a sponge that does not leave fibers

Dry all parts with a hairdryer or wait until they dry

Use M6x90 bolts for assembly.

Very important! Bolts should not touch the housing. It

Please note that some images do not have insulating

At the time of assembly, it is better to seal the holes

Before assembling the plates, look at the right order

1st plate - housing with holes for fittings

All plates are separated by rubber gaskets.

Use the marks on the plates and plexiglass with

The lower holes on the plates alternate - left, right.

On some photos, the contact plates are in the wrong

If all the previous steps are completed correctly, the

Important! Check with a corner or ruler whether all

If there is a skew, it is better to sort out the cell now.

The result should be a flat sandwich.

Add the remaining 5 bolts and a set of insulating

✔Detailed drawings with all sizes